Creality K2 Plus 200 hour + update. Worth the hype?
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- In this video we take a look at the creality k2, I've had this printer for a while now and overall its been pretty good! But like most new printer launches theres a few problems.... Let me know what you think of this printer in the comments! Love it? Hate it? Buying it? already own it?
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#K2plus #3dprinterreview #creality
Thanks for watching everyone! If this printer interests you and want to support the channal use this link, I get a small kick back at no cost to you. Affiliate link for the Creality K2: shrsl.com/4plt3
It is refreshing to see a good honest review video. I own the K2+ and BL printers and you are spot on. Looking at other reviews from others, they make it seems like the K2 is the best devices without flaws. Feels like they just want to get on Creality good side. It prints nice but it does have issues and the slicer Creality Print 5 & 6 are trash. BL printers at least for me are Set it and forget it. My K2 i need to watch it constantly. I hope they will make it better later down the road.
They all have flaws lol I think it’s a good printer for the most part just a little rushed like normal lol thanks for watching!
@@TwoMooseToo Not a single print in place worked for me, so many issues and inconsistency around first layers it completely ruins almost everything that I needed to print
Thanks for that comment. What slicer do you use and where did you get a K2+ profile for that slicer and does that solve the issues?
Got mine in 3 weeks after the order from Creality. Have about 180 hrs on it. Zero issues with the printer or the 4 CFS's. That said, Creality Print 6 is a nightmare compared to 5.1. Mine also prints excellent but im still tuning the color bleed. Im very happy with the K2 plus.
So the new creality print is giving you problems? And I agree mines been printing great minus the color bleed.
I have had the same issue with the new CP 6 with it not letting me add one of my 2 k1c or my sonic pad. Went back to CP 5.1 and it picked them all up fine. Didn’t even give it the time to see if any features were different when I couldn’t even add my printers to it.
The most recent Creality Print update has adjusted flush volumes. I just printed life size 64 hour skull print, black and white, made my flush volumes .9 of the suggested flush volumes and had no problems. However, my computer is windows and not Mac. The recent Creality Print updates are for windows only. The clitchy CP is applicable to Mac users only. Creality says the recent slicer uodates will be available for mac users in the very near future. So I think a great majority of your bad experience is due to using a mac comouter to slice. Other reviewers have expressed that. The unicorn nozzle is the reason for auch large flush volumes.
Thanks for the video
Thanks for the input! I'm desperate for an update haha Thanks for watching I appreciate it
How far we've come from my good ol' Ender...lol
Good vid, my dude. Tossing you a sub. 👍
I'm still using my CR-10.
@phokeydhoo8940 Nice!! My Ender 3 is still chugging right along!...slowly...🤣
Technically a modified ender 3 holds the speed benchy record right now i believe, sub 2min
@tankkiler308 Bet it looked fan-friggin-tastic, too. Hahaha
After the news from Bambu this printer just jumped up a few rungs on the should I buy it ladder.
i was the same about to purchace a X1 carbon seen the news from bambu an changed my mind ordered a K2 today
I was on the edge between the two and the Bambu stuff that just happened, plus this printer on sale on Amazon triggered me buying one yesterday, suppose to have it Wednesday
Wise choice Creality👍👍 bambu🤮🤮
really Creality just look to cheap made
Three a reason Bambu is more expensive. You get what you pay for
Community-driven open source business > for profit business. I’ve been on the fence between Creality and Bambu but now knowing the business models I think I’m going with the K2. Plus the I have ODD and the fan boys really drive me away from Bambu 😂.
My guess is because of the long nozzle melt zone to achieve higher flow rates it also means that you have to purge much more to clear it when doing multicolor.
Made my own carbon filter for the x1c my fan is pushing though an inch of pellets, not a few dangled in the air stream. You can definitely add more, its aquarium activated carbon pellets fyi.
Nice review, I have a K1 Max, early on i used Orca, now I've switched back over to Creality Slicer for the last 6-8 months, runs really good for me, the Max is preforming beautiful. I'd like to have a multi color machine, mainly to load different material in
and not have to "manually change" each time, but it really isn't a big deal. Now, for "ABS FUMES",, I use Ovation abs and have never had any smells or fumes, i often wonder what filament people are using that complain about it. Thanks for your review!
Thanks for watching! I had good luck with my k1 max, printed pla beautifully only complaint I had was first layer randomness. Others mentioned the slicer runs better on windows
Yes, the longer the melt zone the more you will need to purge for like black to white. All of my custom printers when I swap from for example black to white I have to purge more the longer the melt zone is. The filament likes to cling to the outer wall of the melt zone and takes a long time to clear out.
I bought a K1C on a similarly honest review. I actually really love it and have had essentially zero issues with it. Ended up buying a K1 Max about a month ago after they included all of the upgrades and software fixes. Similar result as the K1C.
If I end up getting this one, it’ll be after they workshop it on the public for a while 🫤 Really unfortunate business practice.
I haven’t experienced the the Creality Print issues you have, but that might be a hardware issue (which sucks).
I like my K1C and k1 max I run them both on orca. Only issue I had was higher bed temps on the k1 max and spotty first layers. My K1C bed mesh is mehh but it’s a small bed and stuff sticks fine
Questions: can the printer power completely off after completing a print job? Can you use the external spool in addition to the CFS at the same time? If you load two rolls of the same color in the CFS will it switch to the second roll automatically when the first runs out during a print? Thanks.
Creality print 6 has been fine for me...
We got no colour bleed with 75mm^3 flush volume and enabling flush in to objects infill option
Love The honesty of your reviews, although I think you're a little too nice and give a little bit too much leeway to negative points, keep up the good work man
Thanks for the feedback! Could you give me an example? Always trying to improve my videos any feedback is appreciated. The only major negative would be the defective relay for the heater which someone confirmed the new printers have the improved parts and only effected North American printers. I didn’t put much emphasis on this as I personally didn’t have any smoke or smells coming from my specific printer. All these new release printers have some downsides and I do my best to present information on the printer I received. I’ve seen some post on the forums where people hate their plus 4 and gives them troubles. This can be said for basically every printer though lol
Glad I got a Qidi plus 4. seems way more robust I don't know if you need to strip the hot end down for a clog but on the plus 4 there's just a little cover you screw off to access the filament post gear and pre heatsink to pull it out, easiest printer to sort out a clog/chewed filament. nozzles themselves rarely clog despite opinion, it's usually just deformation/above through chew or heat where it cant fit into the nozzle throat. unless you've had it at 300c without movement and not realised and its burnt to a crisp in the nozz.
Doesn't long retraction setting like Bambu helps solving that color bleeding?
Btw the nozzle on the k1 is different than the k2. Not swappable.
Cool! Found you! Subscribed! 🎉🎉🎉
Love that Lego (like) Skeleton. I have one in my office at work that I printed in white/black PETG.
Heck yeah. I saw him on printables and had to print it around holloween time haha
I slice in bambu then upload into Creality's slicer to send to my printer, silly, but it works. Creality is all I know thus far. I'm loving the K2 such an upgrade from ender. I will try a Bambu one day since I hear all good things but here we are.
Haven't you heard the new bambulab news? They are taking control of your whole printer, and they know all your print data. I was about to buy a bambu, but with the looks of it, bambulab made a huge mistake.
Really easy to listen to. Subbed here.
I've got a Sovol SV08 and I'd rather pay 800€ more to get a K2 Plus because of:
- fully enclosed and filtering (much less harmful fumes even with PLA and PETG)
- has a much much much better first layer. SV08 is unreliable even with heat soaking and quad gantry leveling and 3DLac (sometimes way too close to print bed)
- has an AMS/MMU which adds so much value (especially for technical prints with overhang)
Even though I tuned my SV08 and am good now with the first layer most of the times (NOT every time!!!), it still lacks the enclosure with filtering and an AMS. I'm now building my own low budget enclosure with air filtering. But I won't get my time payed. But an AMS with take a long time to come. If it comes....
Thanks for the review!
You can tell orca slicer very easily in which slot of the cfs which color is. That’s no problem
Mine doesn’t, maybe they changed something but I even talked to creality about it. They then recommended using their slicer. I have to send the file and then print it from the machine. If I just click print it doesn’t know.
@@TwoMooseToo Checkout your email! I wrote you a short message how to do add the filaments.
I appreciate this video, you've successfully made me not purchase a K2 Plus. I was so close to pulling the trigger since all the typical UA-cam reviewers all say "IT'S PERFECT", I don't trust those guys anymore lol. I'll keep waiting for a Bambu XL.
I do think its a great printer BUT the multi color bleeding is a pretty big let down. If you want it specifically for that i'd wait for the new version, wait to see what bambu comes out with, drop a good chunk a change on the multi head prusa xl. Print quality and speed has been great for me, I also dont print a ton of multi color.
@@TwoMooseToo Yeah, I've been looking into it for the last few weeks and was about to pull the trigger but the color bleeding is a deal breaker 100%. My issue is I doubt I'll be able to afford a Bambu XL once it finally does come out. In Canada the X1C combo cost me over $2,000 so an XL is definitely going to be pushing $3,000 lol
Oh what ever they come out with I can guarantee it will be expensive lol
I pulled the trigger on Creality K2 for the opensource. That's it.
I think the leaks from Bambu on their next print are still smaller format, just multi tool head now.. so you might be waiting a long time for the Bambu XL. Sorry, not a really good answer right now..
Nice honest review. I have the K1C. About Creality Print, I don't have issues with it, even with my urgently-needed-an-update computer I have lol. I had up to 12 plates with stuff to print and had no issues at all. I have a PC, maybe the problem is with the Mac version?
I love my K1C, have zero issues with it at all and I was looking to get another printer with bigger size and also have multicolor support. So I need to save money to get the K2... Also maybe wait for the CFS to be adapted to the K1C as they promised.
I agree, CP works good for me - I have never seen any of the issues shown here. But I am using Windows laptop - so maybe that is only a problem for Mac users? Curious.
I saw in Creality official ins that K1C with CFS have been exhibited in CES, and the official sale may be soon。But I've also heard that it's hard to install CFS by self.
@ they will show it in the livestream on Creality channel next week - I am watching for sure.
@@thelees1000 don you know the exact day and time?
the nozzle comes with the heat break, not the full length of it melts, only up to the part where the thread is separated, so the melt zone isnt that much longer, but filament may be grubbing as some sort of powder in that tube over that long length
doesn't it depend on the cutter's location, which is way higher than bambu's, and above the heatbreak too?
Great vid, good to see genuine unbiased opinions. Your experiences are similar to mine, print quality great for pla but there's a lot of annoyances and quirks with how the machine works where Bambu just does things better. Unfortunately my printer arrived damaged, I guess from being dropped during shipping. Customer services took a week to reply to my email and have asked me to ship the machine (at my expense!) to their warehouse to be inspected. Can you please try and print TPU and feedback on your experience, I'm very experienced with calibrating TPU on many machines but no matter what I did I got a clog in the extruder every single time, filament would just find a path out through the gears. Think I went down to 3mm3/s max vol flow and 60mm/s print speed. Might just be orca issue though but every time i tried creality print it crashed.
I’ll definitely try it! I’ve been swamped but I’m back on track now and can spend more time messing around with it
For the color bleed would it help if you print the outside layer last?
why does it look like your bed is tilted when it is sitting at the bottom of the printer?
Thanks for an honest review. I am looking for a bigger printer than my X1C and all other reviews of K2+ and Qidi I have seen sound more like sales pitches.
The short and long of it is honestly: It can compete with the X1C. It's not as nice as the X1C in some aspects, especially in terms of some software, but the upsides of the plethora of features definitely helps tone down that.
I have used both, but own a K2 Plus.
K2P has: higher extruder temps (350 C), ambient temperature heating up to 60C, it has a 5mm aluminum bed, 2x AI cameras, etc.
X1C has: lower extruder temps (300 C), no ambient heating, 10mm Spring Steel bed, 1x AI Camera but that camera is only for failure detection (i.e. you can slap a $40 camera on most printers and with Octo print get a similar result), etc.
Parts Quality wise? X1C is better. Capabilities? K2P wins imho in every single category *except* cloud features (such as sharing slicer settings).
Bambu Labs has a history of supporting their printers for long periods of time and through software updates.
Creality tends to update the software until it's "great" and then stops support and does not necessarily support parts as well as Bambu Labs.
It really comes down to what YOU want in a printer. Do you want bleeding edge performance with prototype software (and continuous rapid updates to fix on-going bugs)? Do you want to print exotic materials, slam this thing in a garage and print PA-6 or go a step further beyond and print PA-6-CF? Something even the rumored "X1E" can't handle? Then go K2P.
If you just want a really nice 3D printer that doesn't break and will last a long time, and handles most of what you need get the X1C. If you don't even plan on handling some of the harder materials, get the P1S, and if you have the space, just get 2 P1S printers. You basically get 90% of the performance and similar quality of the X1C for nearly half the price.
I have a sneaking suspicion that Bambu Labs new "shrouded in mystery" printer is going to try and compete with the K2P, and will shoulder similar quality and software polish as the X1C... However I fully expect it to cost around $3,500+ USD. So, I'm going to stick with my K2P, especially because I got it for $1200 pre-order (with CFS and bundled bonuses). Some people even got it one for $900 with bonuses bundled on the super early bird pre-orders.
im waiting for microswiss making a flowtech nozzle for K2...
So dumb question about the color bleed... Are you using a purge tower? I feel like a purge tower would fix the color bleed.
Yeah if you lubricate the rods they don't get stuck like that plus it prints better
The k2 plus hotend looks like it's really really long, would make sense that it would require more purge volume than bambu?
I’m very glad I didn’t consider buying a K2 Plus until more honest reviews came out. I had a k1 release unit that was an absolute disaster and I ended up buying a Prusa Mk4 because I got so sick of the issues with the K1. This printer is likely not one I’d consider with its existing issues.
Early adopting Creality means you're beta testing and you get no support if they use crap parts. Let others do it and buy their products 6 months after launch. The hardware and software will be mostly baked at that point - How do I know? I'm a former CR-6 SE and K1C owner.
@ exactly, I learned my lesson and I’m not making that mistake again. It’s worth the wait to see how these new printers turn out.
you also need a Purge Tower if you want to stop that bleeding
Do you use the same amount of shampoo as a marine with a crew cut?
Same concept with the nozzles and color bleed i'd imagine.
Nice one. Can you actualy do an update after rooting the printer? Thanks
Is the detail enough to print 20 cm statues? I would like to print statues made in blender and paint them.
With the update on bamboo Labs. Watch printer to get ? The bamboo or the creative
I really don't care what bambu is doing the only people that are really mad are the ones that like to upgrade there printers and use different slicer i knew what I was getting into with bambu when I got my printer I came from an ender 3 pro and I was tiered of always having to tinker with it now I just send my job to my printer and go on with my day
@@omaroskeno3314 Shows you are not fully aware of the situation. I do not care about 3rd party upgrades, However, I refuse to be locked into using Only Bambu Labs filament. Bambu has backed down for now.
I'm still waiting for the new BL H2D, the updates wont affect me and I would guess over 50% of most people that would buy them
@@lplumptree Thanks for that information! I'd also rather wait a little longer for a good large printer and try to avoid Creality, who have disappointed me and others with their poor quality products.
nice video ! please update after 1000 hours :)
The bleed is from the nozzle length there is most likely a formula for swapping colors in barrels of extruders there always was when I ran actual extrusion lines
Thanks for the nudge. I've been on the fence for a few weeks about the K1 but was looking for multifilament. I don't care about different colors, but I would like to mix types of filaments. The ones I have been looking for have been out of stock or way over MSRP. I started looking at this combo yesterday and had one in my Amazon cart, but when I went to pay, it was already sold out.
I had the same issue with a different printer I was trying to buy before Christmas, but I finally found a return and saved a couple of hundred on it.
I used your link and found a discount code that saved me $$$ over what I was going to spend at Amazon. I was able to get the combo plus 4 rolls of filament for $100 cheaper than I was going to pay for just the combo. After I checked out, they offered more deals. One of the offers happened to be the 3D scanner I was thinking about buying. I saved another $120 on that.
I'm such a sucker for a deal!
Bambo lab or creality ? What is the best choice?
Try turn of Hardware Acceleration for your GPU (graphics card) on your computer, it might fix the problem with the Creality software slowness issue.
I'm torn between ordering the k1 or x1 on Monday or even the PS1.. Watched so many videos still unsure
I like the idea of the bigger build area tho
I’d buy a p1s or x1, both of mine print great with practically zero tinkering. The k1 is fine it prints well too but has a small build area
Thanks for the review.. have the k1 max and will wait for compatible cfs
Great review! This was the level of detail I was looking for. The flush volumes/bleed was a big takeaway for multi-color.
Any tips for ASA using the K2? Especially for adhesion it filament brands
Looking to upgrade from my Kobra Plus. what are your settings for PLA? Speed, Temp, Layer height. Is there a difference when using regular PLA vs speed PLA? nobody ever talks about what basic settings they're printing with.
Typical problems of Creality, software/firmware problems. They want the people to fix it. This printer is amazing, but the software is horrible. Waiting on the full compatibility of Orca
I got a $500 off code for the K2 Plus combo at CES and even with that I'm still hesitant. Like, I want it, but I also want two P1S's for roughly that same price.
Thanks for this, very informative. Regarding the Slicer, Lightspeed said something similar. Shame about the colour bleed, for that would be a sow stopper and I think your view that it's likely the nozzle I bet is 100% correct.
Someone else mentioned that the slicer sounds like a mac problem, it may be fine on windows.E Either way I'd still prefer orca hopefully they fix the profiles so the CFS works with it. I have a shop computer ill try it on. Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
Amazing
You’re amazing 😁
do you know if the Ceramic Heating Block Kit that they sell is an upgrade to the one it comes with. Can't find any documentation stating either way.
I've only ran mine for less than 10 hours and then I downloaded the latest firmware and it started giving me the failure to feed errors and I tried to swap the nozzle. I had the same issue wheit got stuck. It was so bad I twisted the nozzle in half. I couldn't get Creality service on any platform so I had to eat the cost on a new heating element kit. Not to mention they were out of stock and I still don't have it after 3 weeks. I'd like to know how to prevent this in the future as well.
Thanks for the video
Best is to not buy the machine if you are not ready to fiddle a lot. For the exact same reason I picked up Bambu. Although it depends on what you need qidi makes good printers also.
Very insightful video. Thanks for the run down on the various areas of the printer, slicer, etc. I have been using the default settings for their Hyper PLA in CrealityPrint and the overhangs/bridges are not good. PETG is obviously worse. I'll try OrcaSlicer to see if that makes a difference. I have also tried to tweak some of the setting around overhangs and bridges, but it's still not great. Have you made changes to these values in either slicer to get better quality?
I've also been getting garbage first layers with my K2 printers.
It is like the bed probing just isn't working.
I'd check the bed mesh and level it as best you can. Then I cheat the z offset a little close in case it gets a higher layer. I haven't spent much time with it after the new update so we'll see. In the video I had the z offset at 0.
Mine wasn't.
Are you using default settings in orca?
I'll wait for bambu
How does the quality and ease of use compare to that of the qidi 4 plus or even the 1ps bambu?
If you dont care about the size the qidi plus 4 prints amazing and more consistent than the K2 IIN my opinion. Working on the follow up video for that now. I also love my p1s it just works and i dont have to think about it, the downside is the bed size compared to the plus 4. But my bambu printers have been great with pretty much no issues.
@@TwoMooseToo Thanks, perfect, i have the qidi 4 plus and the 1ps, i wanted that 3rd printer to reduce time on big jobs and/or to print full size helmets. I was about to try a helmet in the qidi and it appears it will fit, so maybe just a 2nd qidi 4 will do the trick for me.. i would have loved more volume with the k2, but if its always going to need tinkered with to print well, maybe not so much.? I had the elegoo n4max, but it was nothing but inconsistent and problems, i returned it.
@@TwoMooseToo Does the Qidi 4 Plus print full size helmets? I'm on the fence about a K2 or Qidi 4 simply for this reason. I'm afraid that 280 is going to be too small.
Nice review and narration, i was looking for a video showing everyday use of the K2. Please reduce "I don't know".
me either
I don't know how many times he say i don't know.
Is no one else complaining about the position of the camera (other than me that is)? Seems like higher with more down angle would be much better - if the connecting wires are long enough I'm going to design an insert to change the position as best it can be.
so Creality still has first layer problems ... what else is new ?
Maybe OK for thin tests?
Great review. With that price tag and competing with BL (lots of design similarities) it still seems Creality releases a product which is not really validated. lots of "easy" issues. I mean, having the rollers wear out and the RFID tags not reading correctly is kinda bad and should have been addressed before release. You get an overall bad feel with the previous issues with K1.
I do like the machine but also at the same time it’s competing with a machine that is years old at this point. Can’t wait to see what Bambu comes out with. I’m sure the price tag will be steep if it’s comparable to the size of this unit
this was a great review! i'm on the fence with this and the X1C, but i really want the extra build volume... nearly same price for 155% more volume. i'm coming from the creality cr10s v2 pro i started with 5 years ago, and it was a nightmare.
I'm in the same positon as yourself. Can't bare anymore troubleshooting. Bambu are releasing a new version maybe by March as well but not sure if it's worth the wait
I just bought a K2 since I was worried about the direction of Bambu and don't want to wait for their flagship.. I am having HORRIBLE luck with the first layer.. Not getting them to work at all
After my Ender 5 Plus was a nightmare I swore that I wouldn't get another Creality printer. I spent more time tinkering and fixing than I did actually printing. Waiting for the H2D to finally have a large printer with some consistent quality
Lol... can't hold custom settings. Yup will hang onto my mk3 until the new bambu. That first layer was terrible. I'd be freeking annoyed.
after a lot of videos about this, I bought the Prusa XL 5 head, got close to buying this, but seeing the poop and other reviews, thought NO , I do have 2 x K1 MAX, very happy with them, also the Bambu A1 Combo, happy with that, But this, not taking the risk, and I always use ORCA Much better, only problem with XL, No Camera for some reason
If your mission is multi color the multi head is the answer for sure. And I agree my k1 max has been good I only use it for pla same with the A1 I’ll occasionally print petg on that one too
Can you use the creality filament driers as a fifth CFS color swapper?
Can you set it up to wipe to a model rather than a purge tower?
I think that's only with toolchangers
The AI sensors in the nozzle don’t do anything. Try running a print level with filament just past the sensor in the extruder and the printer will run its code and AI camera and detect no issues.
Yeah most of these AI features don’t do crap lol I typically turn them off. I haven’t tried them much on this machine other than what I did in the video
Why is the bed look crooked ?
How do you get the camera set up in orca slicer? also what profile are you using? the one on the wiki or the one from orcaslicer?
I just open creality slicer after starting print on orca and watch it on there ,as camera does'nt show on orca at the moment .
Just getting into 3D printing and stupidly bought the K2 Plus. Not happy to say the least. Can you recommend a good slicer reference. Not getting any support from Creality.
orca slicer
Orca
Did you just the K2 profile that comes with orca? Or did you tweak it further? Thanks
They sent it to me, I’m sure you can ask or just be able to download it at this point. I didn’t tweak anything, prints great out of orca just have it manually select what slot it comes out of as orca doesn’t recognize the CFS yet
Question: I have been having an extruder motor problem. Can you see it move if you remove the extruder cover, no filament, and activate the "E" axis on the console or through Fluidd ?
My sv08 was at 0.600 something deviation but theres a mod people do with printed Shims to unwarp it. I now have 0.250 deviation for a 350mm bed. I had a taco so easy to level with the shims but ur k2max bed is something else
Ur describing z drift for the offset. Probes being sensitive with heat. In my sv08 i have to heatsoak the probe after homing for 5-10 mins before starting my first prints. Drove me pretty insane ngl, too much squish not enough, so i ditched the z offset calibration manually set it with klipper commands and paper, then adjusted it for a few prints and not i have a consistant layer for anything that is solid filament. No matter the bed temp, the automatic Z offset is a bad practice im learning. Seeing other printers suffer from this is pretty bad. In my original ender 3 with a bl touch I dont have to worry about offsets i set it and its done until i touch the toolhead again. The z offset should be solid And never change imo
Yeah I don't know why but for some reason a lot of other people were saying that the slicer runs like crap on macs I have a normal Windows gaming laptop and it works perfectly fine there are some bugs and errors but other than that it's fine
yeah based on the comments it seems to be a mac issue, i guess they are working on an update for mac.
I’m not touching this thing as I expect that Creality will do what they normally do do: fix problems and release a new machine rather than update this one. Look for a K2max to come by spring that fixes 90% of these problems. Still won’t buy it either unless the bigger Bambu is a flop.
This machine has hype? Everytime I see this asked about it’s a 3 to 1 “don’t buy creality” response. Only dudes who like them are guys who just don’t wanna admit Bambu is slightly better.
I bought one open box and the dam thing looked like it had 1500+ hours on it. Looked at the machine and it had 200 hours. These machines don’t last well.
color bleed won't happen if you don't flush into infill.
I am not flushing into infill. I have an entire tote full of poop and I made sure the first time I had bleed it was NOT flushing into the infill especially with a light color
like the cfs & enclosed core xy design, but that thing just looks too big & heavy for my limited space home use.
It's not locked down like the Bamboo because that's the downfall on Bamboo. So that's a huge plus
Why are there no tall corexy printers?
I'd love to have one that has a build area of 350x350x1000 or even larger in the Z
What would be your use case? Because I think for many z is not the limiting factor and the market for such a machine is most likely very small. Time to build a custom Voron I guess.
@DerUnbbekante
Practical prints in one piece that I currently print in several pieces and combine using heat set inserts and screws or dovetails and glue. Outside of shipping it adds very little to the cost and the footprint yet it allows for substantially larger prints without needing a humongous printer.
For an $1300 printer (including the 4 reel multi feeder box) - I would expect the printer to be spot on first gen! I would expect issues/teething issues elsewhere for the gen 2 to fix, but color mixing must be a basic operation for a high end printer. The printer itself looks great. Shame Creality's response to the issue was piss-poor.
Don't put your cardboard spools in there. The edges will get damaged, and the cardboard will turn into dust inside your CFS system.
The issue with creality print. Is your Mac.
Flawless on PC
8:00 This is my biggest gripe with Crealety and Anycubic!!! they let us test there machines, HOW can a so big a company, let a so simple errors creep up on them, Heat creep Hasn't been a problem since the E3D V6 hotend, since then everyone (except Creality apparently) has known to design the hotende so this don´t happen. Anyways Grate video thx, i am definitely waiting for Bambulab to release their large format printer 😁
Thanks for watching! Bambu better drop something good! lol cant wait
The flush volume is not the problem. The problem is you are purging into infill. On Bambu you can turn this off and on. See if you can turn flush into infill option off.
I can ensure you I am not purging into Into infill
@@TwoMooseToo i may be totally wrong, but from looking at the examples, the bleed is only showing in the layer where theres a color change and internally only (infill). If it was a bleed due to not enough purging, the benchy you showed would have similar color bleed, which it didnt appear so.
@@CollateralDamageHDhe’s probably printing inner walls first, which is when the bleed happens
Creality bed flatness... Creality bed flatness never changes...
Try flushing into a sacrificial object it's what I do on all multi colour prints
0.55 variance in the bed after manual adjusting is insane for a 1500$ product. It could be bad luck, but damn, Creality are not beating the allegations with that stuff.
Wish you showed some prints in harsh lighting with non-flattering colors. Saw some minor VFAs, which i’ve seen on every video about this printer, but whenever people show the print quality, it tends to not be up to par for the price range.
For some reason I like creality print software 😂, I use a windows pc and it very fast
this is my first printer & i am already reparing more than printing.
one could say user error because its my first printer, but the errors i get come from the firmware update which is clearly shit.
would be a really great machine.. IF it would work properly. Left belt tension module calibration error, e step error, extruder clog but there is none and the list goes on
The crealty slicer is terrible, my pair came with the bottom hinge and connected from the glass, and I can’t get them to respond anyway shape or form to take care of it. And I’ve had quite a few problems with Printing with just big gaps in the print using their film and I try other filament same problem. I can do the print on the Bambu labs X one carbon print fine. I can save it. Open up the file if their slicer just get weird things all the way through.
"there's some sort of warp in the plate" , the whole bed is 3cm higher in one side than the other