Make a pattern from your favorite pants
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Here's how to easily copy any existing pant or trouser so you'll have a pattern for making new pants that fit the same, and a starting point to designing your own already fitted pants. It's a followup to my earlier video on copying a shirt and ONLY COVERS WHAT'S DIFFERENT about copying pants, so you should definitely watch the shirt video first! It's here:
• David Page Coffin Shir...
Please drop in on my blog about pants, and about the book and DVD I created; that's the best place to ask any questions or make comments that I'll be sure to see. It's here:
makingtrousersw...
Thanks and enjoy!
Very useful, I've spent the last year learning how to make patterns from rtw clothes that fit really good, as it's so rare to find. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I am sohel from Dhaka-Bangladesh. I work here a a garments factory as asst. Merchandiser since december-2014. Its really very vast trade to work and learn. Thank you so much to share the video.
You also could have taped together your pieces of paper to create a larger piece or used butcher's paper or freezer paper to get a big piece. Also with the darts you can mark the dart on the paper as a simple line and then cut that line on the paper and spread it to the width of the dart (may require two cuts in the paper). That way the paper pivots on its on and no need to correct the sides of pattern for the darts.
Tracing round the seams is a really clever and useful idea. This is very handy thanks. I have been reading your shirtmaking book by the way. It's a really excellent, very readable book.
Use a curve tool anytime you're marking down a final cutting or sewing line, smoothing out a hand-drawn line, or anytime you want it clean, unambiguous, smooth. I've accumulated a lot of curves over the years, but the essentials are a smaller, rounder one for armholes, necks and crotch, and a longer, flatter one for side- and in-seams. You slide the curve around until you find a section that matches what you want, then move it to match as much as you can in one go. Make the joins smooth; done!
this was exactly what i have been searching up and down youtube for. Thank you very much!!!!
Thank you David for the tutorial on copying an existing pant of trouser !
@DCUPtoejuice
This method is quick and dirty, which is fine if you already like the way the pants you're copying fit. And if you want to make some style changes such as you describe, just start playing with a copy of the outlines you get; fold out a little horizontal length above the crotch, same place F&B, to shorten the rise, and just redraw the long leg seams from the thighs or knees down to restyle the leg width; take the same amount off each side of each piece. Make muslin to test; repeat!
Thanks to this I now have two new par of pants. Many thanks!
What if I were to take the pants apart by the seam and used that as a pattern?? How would that work.
Thank you very much for this!
You are excellent at explaining what might otherwise be complicated procedures.
@DCUPtoejuice
You could also try just cutting away some at the waist of each piece when shortening the rise, which would catch the increased circumference as you go down from the original waist. Add pockets and waistband details after you like the new, shorter basic pattern.
Thank you, it's a very clear and helpful video!
this is awesome. I am trying to find a posting on adjusting the rise of a dress pant, to change a long rise to a shorter rise and narrow the legs at the same time.
Great rub off video, But you may want to start with the grain line so that the front and back legs are balance. Rule is to square the grain line to the bottom opening and to the Knee line@ Center of both.
Pattern Maker NYC
I find it easiest and most reliable to just fold the copied legs in half from the bottom to the knees and use the crease as the grain line (same thing, no?), but the method's adaptable, and SHOULD be adapted to your preferences. I have noted that the bottom edge on lots of pants isn't perpendicular to the grain; it's tilted down in back. Thanks for commenting!
@DavidCoffin Yes I guess you're right, I was taught the old fashioned way... which means that although in the past I have had to copy items; rather than trace off, it was quicker and easier to draft from scratch. When you're dealing with such simple shapes it becomes so much easier to learn to do it properly! Once you have the basics then you can be creative and make interesting things if the need arises.There are lots of good pattern books out there, just go to your library!
Thanks for putting this online...I make ladies dresses but am desperate to make some men's clothes for myself...but they seem so much more difficult!
Tomorrow I'm going to attempt a pair of fishtail/braces back trousers to wear at my Lindy Hop classes....this will really help.
digforvictoryclothing is my dress shop.
@SuchaCaligrrl Besides being a lot more work and either wrecking the original pants or requiring you to put them back together, the problem is that unless the pants are brand new, never been worn, the separate pieces will be somewhat distorted and likely to get even more distorted from taking them apart and pressing to flatten them. The seams on the garment protect the edges, especially any curves or diagonals. For complex garments it's often the only way; pants are simple, so you don't have to.
Check the full video description; the link to the shirt video's in there! Enjoy...
@LightOfRaven You're quite welcome; have fun!
Sorry to be so slow to respond! I somehow missed the notification of your comment. Unfortunately, the maker of my curves isn't making them any more, but similar ones are easy to find. If you can only get one, I'd get the Fairgate 24-in Vary Form ruler ; it'll handle hips, armholes and necklines.
I'm sorry, I don't really get what you mean by "factory". But I'd ask somebody at the factory what they prefer if you're dealing with some specific place that's going to make a garment from your copy. Personally, I'd not cut it out, so whoever I took it to could make refinements and add details on the same paper.
Much quicker to learn basics of drafting a simple pair of trousers. Problem with this method is that you don't show grain marking, and construction of shaped waist bands- pocket bags, pocket facings, balance of pocket facing etc etc... you can spot a poorly made pair of trousers from half a mile by stressed/gapping pockets!
Great video. Thanks. Two questions, if I may: 1) I noticed your French Curve and the smaller one. I'm in Canada, & the retail sewing shops in my city only carry nasty, floppy plastic ones for about $30. (sigh) Can you recommend a good source for these tools, one that provides value for dollar, please? 2) There seem to be so many styles of those curly, multi-curves like your small one. Can you advise which ones a new pattern drafter should start with, please? Thanks! :)
This is just a way to swipe the front, back and band shapes from basic existing pants; you'll need to supply other detail patterns yourself (or borrow them from my book). To establish the grain, fold the leg portions of your tracings exactly in half and use the fold as the grain-line. This method isn't appropriate for copying pants with a shaped band, yokes, or any other complex pieces, but can give you a good place to start if you have instructions on how to add those to a basic pattern; enjoy!
A more complete basic set would include FairGate 24" Curve Sticks, a smaller, tighter curve like the FairGate 12" Vary Form, and the FairGate L-Square 24"x14". HTH! Google pgmdressform for some good kits, info, and pictures you could use to find similar stuff elsewhere.
Hope no one else already asked this but where is the shirt video you mention in the opening moments of this video? perhaps you can put one of those links in that you see on other videos... Please, Thanks!
oh, im so happy I saw this
Thank you for the advice: I'll check into it. Cheers!
Just a note:
Although it won't matter much for a narrow dart , depending on how much seam allowance you plan to use a wide dart needs to have the "bumped out" silhouette that you find on commercial patterns. Otherwise you may not catch all of the raw edge in your waistband. Ask me how I know ;)
PS Since very few RTW patterns fit me all that well I have been in the habit of altering commercial patterns by trial and error (ie muslins). After I watched your shirt video I was inspired to add that to my repertoire and it has cut down the number of muslins I need to get a perfect fit. So, a very big thank you for that!
Nice tutorial, I can learn from you.
Legal! Peça piloto tem que se de ótima qualidade ,vestir bem! De vemos pegar medida do cliente pra conferir com a da peça piloto. Recursos de costureiras praticas, comecei assim, bom!!!
I want to make a pattern for mens breeches with the small ballon on side of thigh, I only have a German style breeches to copy but want to make the U.S. style tight breeches, is there a paper pattern already available for this?? mens size 36inch waist and 29" Inside leg, with zips on ankle and small ballon on side beginning to extend from about 6 inches below waist to about 4-5 inches at widest point of "ballon" then tapering in about 6 inches about the knee - any tips/suggestions??
Should i cut my pattern out before bringing it to the factory?
Really helpful, Thank you!
Thanks you for the tutorial. I just came back from a frustrating shopping trip which annoyed me enough that i ended up coming home with two sewing machines and a cut throat attitude. Is there any reason why you don't uhm... disassemble the seams (the sewing thread?) and take the pattern like that?
Definitely; why bother with all that considerable extra work if you don't need to? I'd rather get close quickly and spend time on refining the copy than on dis- and re-assembly of the original, which I might not own, just have access to try on. Also, complete disassembly could very likely distort some or all of the edges; un-picked seams are a lot more stable.
Thank you for your reply. After watching though some of your other videos and taking apart some of my old clothes i now have an idea of how all the bits are supposed to go together. Oddly enough in all my years of wearing clothes i have never given more than a passing thought to how they are made... until now. Thanks again for the tutorial and the answer.
when do you know to use a curve tool? and which one?
Very informative.
Hello. I'm also looking for the "copying the shirt" video in your channel, but cannot find it.
Thanks.
Thanks, very usefull.
nice. Thanks .
God bless your video. :-)
@DCUPtoejuice thank you
è possibile avere i video tradotti in italiano
thank you :)
@amateursewing Three links I'd start with:
The Great War: Styles & Patterns of the 1910s book at amazon
suitability. com
cutterandtailor. com
Good hunting!
Thanks be blzd
Where do i see your previous video about the shirt? Thx
oh! I see now I clicked "show more".
Check the full video description; the link to the shirt video's in there! Enjoy...