How to Install an ARB Air Locker (Very Detailed!)
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- Опубліковано 23 тра 2021
- This video shows how to install an ARB Air Locker which includes setting up the gears and running the air line connection. This procedure will apply across many different axle types. If you are looking for more information on setting gears, check out the other videos on my channel.
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Last updated: May 11, 2023 - Навчання та стиль
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Having never set a ring and pinion gear, I was looking for a good tutorial. I just purchased an ARB air locker for a Dana 35 and your video was a great starting point for my education. As a retired Toolmaker, I feel confident that I can accomplish a good setup which will last for years. Bring on the fun and get me a BFH!!!! Thank you!
The most comprehensive video on air lockers on UA-cam, I had been looking for months for this information and especially the setting up of the backlash and preload etc.
Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial and sharing your obviously vast experience and knowledge with us, you have earnt my subscription and respect.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment and subscription!
@@TheBFHGarage Did you install shims behind the race because at the time of this video you didn't have a clamshell puller or you did it this way knowing most would not have a clam shell? I would really rather install shims on the pinion like my D44 I did as it made it pretty nice with the clam shell.
@@ChrisLawley43 I installed shims behind the race because that's what came with my install kit. At the time my preference would have been for it to be the same anyway as I didn't have the clamshell puller. But the install kit was the main factor. If you plan and installing behind the pinion bearing then make sure your master install kit comes with those shims because most don't.
I second that. Great video!
Great tips, the setup nut and race is a trick I've seen the OGs use, even they take 8 hours adjusting. Want to see someone in the comments whose successfully installed and ARB the first time around.
Vary Educational session. Although, i had a shop just did all my regeared +add ARB locker, I'll watch your channel to gain insight how it done. Thanks for putting our this stream. Lot's of valuable info.🙏💯❤
This is a spectacularly useful video. You have the gift of teaching. Thank you, sir.
I wanted to say thanks for making videos this detailed without a bunch of sponsor BS or "this is better than that". I'll be doing this same install this weekend and your video is a huge help!
i have a gen5 ranger with an open m190 on the front, that I want an ARB locker in... i'll probably never do it myself, but after watching this start to finish, i feel like I probably could. Phenomenal!
I recently got my hands on a HP D30 for my LJ and this video will be playing on the iP ad while I follow along step by step when I set it up. Thanks for such an informative and instructional video!
This has to be one of the best videos I've seen on UA-cam. I've learned so much. I wish he could work on my Land Rover
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed. Its been twenty years since I’ve done a gear change. I am finally getting the chance to fix up my 92 YJ. Looking forward to checking out all your vids.
Excellent video, thank you for all your time and effort to put this together, I have two lockers to fit and am way more confident after watching this.
Awesome detailed video! Thanks for taking the time to make this content. BFH is great channel with how to and wheeling videos!
Awesome tutorial, first video of yours I’ve watched and totally won my subscription. Looking forward to watching the rest of your content.
This has got to be ,by far, the best video I've found on setting up gears in a diff. Aside from the helpful instruct for the locker. I just finished building a 3rd for a Toyota with ARB airlocker and 4.88's and was looking for something on routing the air line, then found this. I only wish I found it before I built the diff. All the other videos on setting up gears are made with the assumption that you'll be using the same housing and can base pinion depth from existing setup, but starting with an empty 3rd and new gears, finding pinion depth is tricky without the ridiculously expensive pinion depth tool. This is very helpful stuff. Very well done. Thank you for your contribution
Thanks so much man this is awesome, I am about to do this exact job on my 98 Cherokee. You rock!!!!
Thank you for this video! Been contemplating air lockers for my gladiator, and naturally I’ve been considering doing the work myself. This is very informative and helpful!
I have a Gladiator as well, but the Rubicon model so no need for ARB's... yet.
Nice write up. I can see a shop cutting some corners here and there out of laziness. That's why I like to do things myself as much as I can
Amazing video. Very well spoken. I'll definitely need to pay someone like you to do it. Wish you lived near Portland 😕
Getting ready to do my install this month. Wouldn’t have the confidence I have without this video. Excellent communication. I’ve watched others videos and your approach is very effective at teaching how to do this. Best regards
Thanks for the kind words, and good luck!
@@TheBFHGarage I’ll post here how it all goes. I’m doing front and rear lockers with a regear.
Answered my question in just over a minute. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. You’re a great instructor. I learned so much about air lockers. I’ve also come to the decision to not attempt this myself haha. Paying someone to do this is definitely worth it in my case. You’re saving me time and money.
The best detail I have seen.
What a great video! Thanks to Mike's very well done presentation--he is an excellent communicator--I have not only learned learned more about air lockers, but also about finer points of differentials and how a master craftsman gets to work. Inspiring. Thank you Mike!
Thank you for the kind words, glad it helped out!
Great job Mike. Very well done, I really enjoyed the video. I learned a great deal from this. Thank you for taking the time to create this content.
Thank you! Glad it helped out!
You did a very good install video. Very thorough. Can tell you have done a few. Thanks
Thank you for sharing! very educative!
This is an amazing instructional video thank you a lot for it!
good job.
i live on res, need ARB install. now I will tackle install next..
Thank You sir. Gonna be setting up my first Dana 70.
Good luck!
Mate, this was an excellent video, one of the best I've seen.
The best videos on YT are on your channel. Very helpful when you own 97' Grand Cherokee. Greetings from Poland!
Thank you for the kind words! Hope your project goes well!
amazing. Thx for this excellent video.
Привет! Это лучшее и подробное видео по установке ARB, что я когда либо видел! Спасибо большое!
Very details, Thank you
so exellent detailed explanation. Thank You.
Love the work great advice I would really invest in a deal puller tho would make your life 10x easier
Great video sir!
Very helpful
If I'm working on an axle by myself, I usually stuff an old pillow inside the housing. Use 1 or 2 extra large zip ties or zip some smaller ones together to hold the pillow in place. That will stop the pinion from falling out onto the floor and possibly getting damaged.
All that business with the shims...somehow I don't think that Skippy The 19 Year Old Apprentice is going to be that diligent.
thats an real great video. Thanks so much
Thank You!
I'd like to see a video of the arb pump installation and hooked to locker.
very good video
Wow, this was a great tutorial. It has however left me thinking, maybe I'll pay for the install haha
You sir are a great instructor. Awedome video. i do wish you could have shown how to have installed the copper line in that coupler (i forget the name)
It's called a bulkhead fitting. That would be a good topic for a future video👍
So I had a guy that was doin our gear work on the side , he is "head mechanic " at local 4 wheel parts , I had him do my gears front and rear and rear locker , then later on I decided to do arb in the front so I had him do it , needless to say the gears ended up eating their self up in the front , he didn't shim it right and I asked him to take a pic of the pattern he settled on and send it to me and he couldn't even do that, so I'm positive he didn't run a pattern, but when I told him what happen , he tries tell me it wasn't his fault , so I make him replace ring and pinion and I bought install kit. I'm a pretty good mechanic and was confident I could setup gears , so I tackled the install this time , well after fighting and fighting, I just couldn't figure out what was goin on , then it hit me., I didn't get a install kit for arb , I got regular install kit for open carrier , I was using wrong shims in between seal housing and bearing and everytime I'd put any preload on it it would lock up , It just never dawned on me to read the arb instructions, and learn about the master shims , mainly on the seal housing side , once I figured that out with correct tools ,it was pretty simple , tedious but simple. , I came back to your video to figure out the shims , luckily he used the master shims so I had them , and It took awhile to figure out all the different size shims in kit also. If it wasn't for that, it would had went quick. Thanks for the great video
I had arb locker’s professionally installed on my ram 3500 and I just got a quote of 800 dollars to fix the “ bad batch of seals” that arb used in their lockers. This is the 3rd time‼first 2 times were under warranty
There is no way it should cost $800 to replace the O rings. Are you 100% sure it's the O rings? I would check everything before just replacing something. Especially if they are doing it for the "third time". My guess is something else.
Good video
damn that';s one hell of a detailed video. Love every second of it. Also, what a best way to discourage a DIY'er. :D :D
Yea, far too many nuances of this install for a DIYer to do this and remain happy by the end of it.
Love the vid. Getting ready to do my first ever locker install, a Yukon Grizzly in a D50 TTB, but this vid helps a LOT to help me understand the steps AND logic.
One question, why no crush sleeve? On disassembly my stock D50 didn’t have a crush, but the Yukon rebuild kit includes one. Do I use it? Thanks!
At all depends on the axle type. For example a low pinion Dana 30 or a Dana 35 will use a crush sleeve, whereas a high pinion Dana 30. Or a dinner 44 uses shims. Use whatever came out of yours
The best video. ! Do you know if an arb locker can be installed in front wheel drive car , where the diff and gearbox are in one place? Thanks!
Do a search for your vehicle on ARB's website. They list everything they have.
You'll thank me the first time you use it if you like it. Look into capillary tube cutter. If you have the same looking wire strippers, they work well too. Cut in the v shape Grove and it doesn't smash the tube flat. I'm an hvacr tech, and I'm a tool freak as well.
Good video. Thanks.
Great vid, if I want to sand down one of those bareing races as a tool to set shims. I. Assume you would order an extra from the same manufacturer as the new bearings/races you are installing?
Yep👍
pretty good video ,most if not all high pinion diffs use a baffle and a slinger . i did not see those in you're video.
Maybe in stock form. The slinger is a shim more than anything. If you think you need a "slinger" in there, I encourage you to imagine the axle being on a bench with the diff cover off and spinning at 100 rpms. You would have gear oil dripping off the ceiling. As far as a baffle, high pinions usually do have them but I have seen some that don't. Plus not all master install kits provide them. I've never had one come back from lack of pinion lubrication.
What an amazing video .. ! Great work! Thank you for sharing your work and experience with us - Quick questions:
1. Did you add a crash shelve in the pinion assembly? I was under the impression that we should add one and then ''crush'' it as we tight the pinion to spec
2. Is there a starting point of ''total'' rings that you add left and right initially? Is there a spec there or goes by our feeling of the backlash?
Thanks again!
Some axles use a crush sleeve and some use shims. Use what your axle is supposed to have. The "rings" you are referring to are called shims. I usually try to start with what was in there and adjust as needed
I just want I'm trying to say is how can you set the gap between the pinion ring and the ring gear when you haven't set the new shims on pinion gear, or bearings and races for the pinion. It seems like you would want to get all of that put in place first then set the proper gap and use paint to adjust the tracking
Hi, thank you this vid. I found a hp Dana 30 that I need to re-gear to 373. Do I need to order different gear set than I would a normal front axle? I’ve heard some say reverse cut? Any insight would be great
If it is a high pinion Dana 30, yes you will need to get your gears in reverse cut.
Great video - really appreciate your work making these. Quick question - my JK uses a crush sleeve to set pinion pre-load. Do you recommend using a crush sleeve eliminator kit with these?
It's preference. A crush sleeve eliminator makes changing a pinion seal easier. Crush sleeves are a PITA to get started too and easy to over crush. The eliminator kit makes everything easier especially if you have to get back into the pumpkin in the future.
It is preference. I hone out an inner and outer pinion bearing of the same manufacturer for "setup bearings" when checking patterns. Don't use the crush sleeve and torque the pinion nut to about 150 ft. lbs. After an acceptable pattern do you perform final install with new bearings and torque to spec with the crush sleeve.
Lots of information, and although toyota's are completely different your attention to detail is great reference information. I may have missed it, but why would you loop the copper tube over the ring instead of exiting the housing on the other side?
I've seen people do that but it is really difficult to do without kinking the line. Plus there really isn't a whole lot of room there for it to not rub or vibrate on the bearing cap. In addition, with it in the other side of you somehow damage it at the seal housing you still have plenty of copper line left to use.
@@TheBFHGarage I get it. It's counter intuitive with all the moving parts on the other side though.
Yeah but there is "plenty" of room😎
Sehr gutes Video, besser geht es nicht👍
Danke Schoen!
Awesome video! Just one question: why so much extra copper line inside the housing? Why not run it over the top and just out of the hole?
If it gets damaged at the seal housing for whatever reason or if you need to relocate it when doing a truss then you have enough to move it. Most importantly it's easier to bend when installing.
Great Video! Is there a reason for looping the copper line down before coming out of the housing? Rather than going straight out?
It makes installing the carrier much easier. When you roll the carrier and seal housing in, you can move the copper easier. If it's short, it is very rigid and difficult to get in without bending it or damaging it. I also keep the bigger loop there in case the bulkhead gets damaged somehow and you need a little bit extra line to make it good again.
Thanks for the video! I'm looking at putting in a RD117 in the rear of 2017 JKU Sahara. I'm going to use my stock gears, do I need to remove my pinion? Also do I need to grind in the lower oil grooves?
If you are not changing gear ratios, then no. Yes, you will need to grind out the slots for the rear.
Great video Mike. I am ready to make the upgrades to my stock toyota 2015 tacoma. my problem is that I am not this savy. Where are you and do you do this for customers?
I only work on Jeep Wranglers, sorry!
Hi, thanks for best video I saw.I have not excellent english so I am asking maybye what you mentioned in video.
Is it nacessary to adjust pinion deepth,backlash and ringgear preload If I only change the diff carrier ( airlock or lsd or another varilock rebuild),with all original shims and gears setup ?
It give me sense that When I regear it I need adjust all those things, but only when I carrier change,I would check only marks with yellow paint on ring gear if is ok.If not than buy set of shims and adjust carrier right or left.
You shouldn't have to change anything if only changing the carrier. However, there is a chance you might. Take a pattern BEFORE taking everything out, and then take a pattern AFTER you put it back together. If it's the same or even really close, then you should be good. Good luck!
really great content, thank's a lot! Just a question: If I just keep the stock pinion and put in a locker - do I then even need to remove the pinion? Just in case the bearings are still fine ofc.
If all you are doing is swapping in a locker and NOT changing gears, then theoretically it's a direct swap. I would highly recommend checking backlash and run a pattern prior to taking things apart. Most likely you will have to adjust carrier bearing shims as they can be different. For example, the ARB uses different bearings. Since you aren't changing the pinion, you should only have to get backlash back to where it was which is probably easier said than done.
@@TheBFHGarage great. thank you for your quick answer! also appreciate your other videos, watching them atm. have a good new year
we just use a bearing heater to install bearings. works the same as the ring gear
Great video! I am considering putting in 3:73 but there’s no way a shop will be as meticulous as you, which is unfortunate. I might give this a try just to check everything is done correctly. I am currently running my 3:07 with spartan lockers. Was curious where’s your shop located? State?
I'm in Colorado. Why go to 3:73? What size tires do you have or want to have? Which motor? Which transmission? Have to take all of those into consideration.
I’m hoping you can answer my question for me and help me understand what is happening and if I need to do anything about it. I have a high pinion Dana 44 from a bronco it’s getting all new bearings and new ring and pinion with an ARB locker, I’ve got my pinion depth right where I want it however, I can’t seem to get the pattern just right without opening my backlash too far. Yukon gear recommends 6-10 and right now I have it at nine but there’s still a partially a sharp line at the bottom of my pattern, if I close the backlash to 6-8, that sharp line goes across the whole bottom of the pattern and I can’t seem to get rid of that sharp line without just going way past spec on backlash.
Always get the BL in spec. If you get that harsh line at the bottom, then your pinion depth isn't where you think you want it. If it's that close, try pulling 3 thou, reset BL and run another pattern.
Hi thanks nice video, do you know how many threads per inch the 1/4npt tap is?
I believe 18 off the top of my head. 1/4" NPT requires a 7/16" hole.
Thank you
Thank you so much. Before this video I was thinking I can wing it. Toward the beginning I was thinking I need to hire this guy to do it for me. By the end of the video I know I can do this and I am looking forward to it. Knowing what I am doing will make it fun. I am going to buy a used one someone is selling because it leaks and he doesn't know why. My guess is he didn't watch this video before his initial instal. He replaced the ARB with a Grizzly. Do you think it's a good idea to buy a used ARB cheap that leaks? Maybe some pointers on what I should be looking for?
Those are some of the best ones to buy because you can get them cheap. Things to look for: Make sure it isn't an older three piece design (look it up so you know). Make sure the seal housing isn't leaking...hold your finger over the hole between the two O rings and then blow into the copper line-NO air should be escaping. Make sure it comes with the bearings and races or you'll be buying new ones. Make sure it comes with the ARB master shims (one for each side). Get the solenoid, switch, and wiring with it. If you can get the bulkhead fitting with it, bonus. If not, you'll be buying one. If the seal housing does leak, a new one runs around $100 so figure that into the overall price. I would also order replacement O rings for the seal housing and replace those since you have it out.
Excellent video, I feel like I can do this myself after watching this! (and buying like $2000 worth of tools 😆) Indulge me on two questions if you don't mind, 1) when you reinsert the axle shafts into the ARB is there another step? Or do they just lock in there immediately? 2) What would be a reasonable price to expect to pay (labor only) for someone like you who works carefully to be precise to do this work? Just ballpark, thanks! Hope you keep making this great content!
First off, I'm glad the video helped you out and gives you the courage to tackle a job like this. As far as the axle shafts, they slide right into a carrier, or in this case, a locker. Nothing inside the carrier or locker secures them unless you have a C clip style axle such as a Dana 35. On non-C-clip axles, most of the time they are held in place with retainer plate/nuts on the ends of the axle tubes.
Talking about labor cost here is pointless. It varys greatly from state to state and region to region. A lot of shops won't let you bring your own parts. Some charge by the hour and some by the job. It's really all over the place. I can say this. If you get a quote and it seems excessively high, shop around for other quotes to compare.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks! I figured that would be your response about cost but thought I'd ask. As far as the c clip axle goes I assume the ARB would provide access to this area of their carrier to reinstall the c-clip if that was the case? Unlike the one in this video that looks pretty solid, no access to reinstall the c-clip that I could see...
do you have a video on how to remove and refit the axle shafts?
Yes, look at the axle build series.
Insanely helpful vid! Do you need to worty about tooth pattern in compound as much if you’re just reusing your same ring n pinion on a new arb? (Front dana 30 zj)
If all you're doing is changing over your ring gear to the ARB, you should be able to just put it right back in there. I would check backlash and pattern before you pull it though and compare to when you put it back in.
Sorry I was distracted when I replied. When you are installing an ARB, you shouldn't have to reset the pinion. You will just have to make your backlash correct. And that will still take some time because you're going to have to mess around with a seal housing and all of that. So that part will be different. But you should not have to mess with the pinion gear.
@@TheBFHGarage You rock sir! Think I should replace bearings while in there? Jeep has 215k
Carrier bearings will get changed out with the ARB.... Yes, I would change out pinion bearings while you're in there.
@@TheBFHGarage ok screw it, I’m doin a full regear front and back as well 🤣. 💸
Thank you! Awesome Video!! I just broke my tj rear axle so am planning on upgrading to super 35 from revolution gears and axle. Currently my arb Locker is RD102 which is for 27spline. So I called arb to figure out how to upgrade to splice 30. they told me to get part # 728j031c. Do you think it works with RD 102? I have been watching this video more than 10 times to solve my problem. Thank you in advance!
I haven't done a Super35...ARB is your best source.
i wouldn't waste any more money on a 35 upgrade, I would look for a 44 housing and build that,
Can you make set up bearing for the pinion gear to mesure the pinion depth
Sure. You can place shims behind the pinion head or behind the race. Either works. However, you will be limited by what shims come in your master install kit. Some only come with shims for behind the race and others with shims behind the pinion head.
Dear sir I've been watching the videos on the diff work you do and impressed is there a way to ask you question about Dana44....my spider gearsin my lsd jeep...are chopped andIwanna get a locker from yukon and get them things. Outta there do you have a email address or something
On my channel home page
@TheBFHGarage ok thanks for the update I'll check it out..my name is Keith from tn..
Great Video. What if i was wanting to install that same locker but wanted to reuse my same gears. Would it be possible that the same shims will be needed? Or at least would the pinion stay the same?
If you are only changing the carrier to a locker, you should be able to reuse the gears. You shouldn't have to change anything with pinion depth. The difficult part is getting the same backlash and gear pattern. I would recommend checking and noting the current backlash. Then run a pattern before taking anything apart. Take pictures. Then set the same backlash and make sure the pattern matches too. The reason for this is that gears get work hardened when you break them in when new. This is a difficult thing to do, but doable.
Thank you.
@@TheBFHGarage @The BFH Garage I really liked and appreciate the video, it answered a lot of questions that I have about putting in an air locker. I noticed that your old differential just fell out on you, and you said that was a bad sign. I had my axles regeared (at a specialty drivetrain shop) about 9mo ago, and had a failure of a spider gear which I noticed while trying to fix a front axle seal leak. The differential practically jumped out into my hands when I pulled it out .. I take it that's bad. It's of little consequence at this point, since I'm changing out the guts of that diff anyway, but it makes me suspect that my rear diff may have a similar issue. :-( Planning to self-install an ARB in the back later this year, so I'll have a chance to investigate at that point. As with the poster who originally asked, I'm hoping to be able to leave the pinion alone. I suspect that I won't be able to tell whether the bearing preload is right now that the bearings are a bit worn-in and fully lubricated, do you think it's worth trying to measure that before I go down the installation / setting backlash path? After matching backlash, I assume I should still go ahead and check the tooth contact pattern?
@@ivymike1031 ok, a lot to your post. First, that was a stock axle, the carrier falling out can be normal as the entire system is broken in and worn at that point. When installing new stuff, we want the preload to be tight at the axle housing will flex under load. Lockers need to be tight. As far as my changing anything with the pinion, it can be done if you're using the same gears but it needs extra attention to get it right. If you are using new gears, all bets are off.
Had mine installed last year on my tacoma. Its leaking air out of a release valve on the other side of where the supply line is going in. I didn't see that valve in your video though, any ideas?
See my reply to your other comment.
Do they make these for the Eaton ds402, all I can find is no slip lockers?
I have no idea
Is it worth re-gearing and installing ARB lockers on a dana 30? I am struggling to decide between buying a new dana 44 vs using my existing dana 30 axle. I know a dana 44 is stronger, but how much stronger?
The only difference between a D44 and a D30 is ring gear size. Everything is the same outside the pumpkin.
Hi!
I have a ARB air locker on my rear differential. I haven’t connected the ARB air compressor to the air locker yet. This as led to a leak out of the bulkhead where the air line from the air compressor will connect. I am about to install the air compressor to the air locker and I am wondering if I can just proceed or I have to deal with the leak first. If I do have to deal with the leak, what should I do?
Thank you
It is common for gear oil to go back up the copper line. Not a biggie. Hook up your compressor and you should be good to go. I would make sure the axle vent tube (rubber hose on top of axle) isn't clogged as well as that can create internal pressure leading to gear oil leaks. In addition, on an annual or every couple of years, disconnect the airline at the bulkhead fitting and then run the compressor to blow out any gear oil that has been building up. I've had it back all the way up to the solenoid so don't be surprised.
Thank you for helping.
Your response and your video were helpful. I will do some more research and give it a try.
Is this basically the same for all trucks. Example- Nissan Frontier 2017 with the 180 front diff?
Correct. Look at install instructions for your needed locker and compare any differences as necessary.
This is a good video, but I want to make what I feel is an important point:
ARB has a pretty funny idea about how to keep shims in place on a Dana 30 where the bearing caps do not hold them in. They are relying entirely on the interference fit when the carrier is installed to hold the shims in place. Considering that when I removed the original carrier, I was able to just grab it with three fingers and lift it right out of the housing, those shims are liable to not stay in place in the long haul. I do not know if that is due to bearing wear or 20 years of thermal cycling or whatnot, but in that case, one of those shims would have walked their way right out of there, and would've been stopped by the axle shaft and you can use your imagination as to what issues that may cause. Second of all, any time you install a locker, the chances are that you'll be doing some wheeling over some rocks and it is inevitable that you get one wedged underneath the pumpkin. That's going to change the dimensions of the housing and I don't see it to be nearly impossible for it to negate that .012 interference fit that they recommend. Long story short, I tack welded the shims in place... just a quick zap of the welder to the shims / housing.
Case in point: The Chrysler 8.25 in the back of my Jeep experienced this. I had the preload adjusters tightened to the recommended 80? Ft Lbs and then tightened down the bearing caps. It was all fine for a few hundred miles until I went to diagnose a driveline vibration, so i just stuffed the jack underneath the pumpkin to lift the rear wheels up. The air ring fitting thing, which I believe was on the outer race of the carrier bearing, (the exact design eludes my memory from about 6 months ago) spun inside of the bearing cap. That pushed the air line into the ring and pinion and lunched it up. And guess what? ARB uses copper air line of a size made from unobtainium.... at least when you try to source it locally. The preload adjusters didn't keep it in place, and nor did the bearing caps. So, out came the welder again and I put a tack weld on the bearing cap so it fit inside a notch in the air ring thing. So, if it does try to spin in there, it'll stop against my tack weld. My brazing skills are less than optimal, so I got the bearing race pretty hot, but it survived several thousands of miles so far and its not making any abnormal noise. And I know that a person technically is not supposed to raise a vehicle by the pumpkin, but like I said before, it is inevitable that you get caught on a rock somewhere and that'll duplicate this scenario.
I have an email from ARB saying that they swear that .012" interference will keep that shim in there on a Dana 30 and maybe they are right, but... Sorry, ARB. That is *NOT* a robust way to keep something like this in place for the long haul and I have empirical evidence to support this.
I lift my rear axle from the pumpkin all the time with no issues. Welding inside is not what I would call a way to fix your issue. A locker requires more carrier bearing preload than an open carrier. The shims you speak of on the seal housing side go over a raised lip of the seal housing and are then sandwiched by the master ARB shim. So there is no way those can sneak out. The right side (as you're looking at it) it's feasible, and I have seen it as well. Proper preload prevents that from happening. I would guess over 90% of issues I have seen were based on improper preload. Your 8.25 is different than a D44 or D30 in regards to setting preload. Brazing is just not an option for the average Joe.
Yes, that makes sense. It was the shims on the right side (driver's side) that were of concern on the Dana 30. I wish I could post a picture here. I definitely did not like the idea of welding anything in there, either, but gee.... the way it sat there just did not inspire confidence, especially with a $1,000 differential. I think I put the thicker master shim on the outside of the shim pack in an attempt to get as many shims behind the bearing cap as possible? Stuff moves around. I didn't have the cojones to leave it like that. Maybe ARB was right, but.... dang.
I don't know why the 8.25 did what it did. Maybe something isn't machined properly and there is not enough of an interference fit behind the bearing cap? I do not know. In either case, the bearing / seal *did* spin around in there. I was just very not happy when I had to tear the axle back apart again and clean out all of the copper glitter and cobble together a new copper line and then figure out how to not have it happen again. Unfortunately, a small bead of weld on the bearing cap was the closest thing to a guarantee that I could come up with. Did the cap stay round after the welding heat? I hope so.
Rebuilding axles requires thinking and patience. I would venture to say that in almost all of the cases where someone gets a set of gears and they're trashed within a year, that person did not take the time to get their pinion depth and backlash set right. It is a lot of dicking around and after working on old junk for decades now, I can vouch for how most people don't have the patience, nor the tools to do crap mostly right.
I also did not like grinding teeth off of my 4.56 gears in order to get the differential pin installed. But there wasn't much for options.
In either case, I went from MN to CO twice this year and from MN to the black hills once after I got the lockers in, and it has been otherwise problem-free and there are no leaks from the lockers. ARB's compressor pumps up tires better than the other compressor that I've been using for a long time.
@@paulstandaert5709 I wholeheartedly agree that failures shortly after install are an installer issue, not a parts issue. ARB's take patience to set up. If you don't take the time to set it up right you will most assuredly have issues. That is exactly why ARB stresses using a certified installer. If your race was spinning around under the bearing cap you can resolve that by making dimples in the differential bearing seat and that should hold it although it's not optimal. Lastly, the ARB master shims do go to the outside of the other shims. 👍
If installing a locker ARB or Eaton and not regearing (have newer 4.56 already) would the pinion need to be set up or just the carrier preload/backlash. Also are the carrier shims always on the outside of the carrier bearings.
If you are just changing the carrier/locker, then the pinion should not need to be changed. Just get the backlash in spec. Shims are under the bearings on stock carriers and outside the bearings on aftermarket lockers all the time. There may be some exceptions but that's my experience so far.
Your videos have been the absolute best resource I could find. I've got the locker, install kit, and now all the tools for the install. One way or another I'll be (self) locked for my first Colorado offroad trip next summer.. Thank you so much!
@@USfoolsgold take your time with it... Frustration can easily set in if you're not careful! Look us up when you come out.
Once again, thank you! Will be utilizing my locker while attempting the Wall on Poughkeepsie at the end of July. Your videos saved me a bunch of $, and gave some valuable experience.
PS. Not that I want you get too big like some UA-camr's (because I then lose interest), but I would absolutely buy a BFH shirt!
Question, when you are locked does the compressor works and makes noise all that time?
No. The compressor only runs long enough to engage the locker...maybe a second or two. Then it will kick on every so often for a second just to maintain pressure.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks, I have mine on the way for a JLU.
Great video! What is the estimated time for one axcel?
Depends on if it's your first time or not
@@TheBFHGarage first time.
@@SheriffNicolay depends on your mechanical ability. I would account for a full day, maybe two per axle. The second should go faster than the first.
So does ARB provide you with that pinion bearing race? Or are you buying a replacement OEM one? I'm confused.
If you're referring to the setup race, no that's on you. ARB provides new carrier bearings. Everything else should come in your master install kit
@@TheBFHGarage I was referring to the final bearing race you put in there for completion - does that come with the locker or do you need to source this?
@@00chapmano that will come in your master install kit
@@TheBFHGarage Okay, thank you. ARB don't mention install kits. In fact, they say everything you need comes in the box for the locker. I'm in the UK and finding it hard to get the info. Appreciate your help and your awesome videos.
Great video thanks for sharing. Question! Did you make a video years ago on death wobble? Your voice and teaching style seems familiar, although that gentleman did not show his face> planman I believe his screen name was.
Nope!
Did you used to play for the Broncos?
@@TheBFHGarage lol no. Just a Broncos fan. Thanks again for such a detailed and informative video. (liked/subscribed).
So why does arb route the line across the diff instead of out the same side of housing the air line goes to seal shim?
You can run it however you want. I've seen them poke straight out the side but that is not my preference for two reasons. First, installation that way is a pain in the butt because you have no line to work with....meaning that a longer line is more flexible to get it into tight places. Secondly and more importantly, is that under harsh loads the axle housing will flex and deflect some. By having the longer line it allows for this movement and the line acts like a spring rather than a rigid connection. A rigid connection would lead to premature failure/fatigue imho.
Hello Mike. I just installed my arb air locker and when I assembled them I tested the locker. The locker works but every time I turned them on and when my wheel does half turn I can hear a pop or clunk after that it disappeared. It seems only happens when I turned on the lockers, any idea? Thank you and more power to you.
If everything is operating correctly then it may just need to break in. The other thing I would check if you're hearing a clunk is your driveshaft and axle shaft u-joints.
@@TheBFHGarage cool. I'll sure to break it in and as the arb said to change oil after 1500 miles. My drive shaft and U joints are good and always have Grease in it and yes locker works 👌🏾. I appreciate your time. Thanks.
@@k4rventures_overland fyi the clunk you hear may just be the locker engaging. If the splines aren't lined up exactly when you activate it, then it will once they do. Same thing for unlocking. If the axle shaft is in a bind, which often happens in Moab, then it will not unlock until it comes out of bind. Perfectly normal.
@@TheBFHGarage sweet, Thank you. I actually watched your video 3x before doing mine 😂😂😂. Thanks Mike!
Just curious, why have so much copper line in the housing. I would think the less copper inside the differential housing the less chance of the tubing getting caught on a gear.
I like to keep extra line just in case. It's rigid, so if it's out of the way, then it's out of the way. You have to take time to make sure it clears everything.
Basically one have to be some kind of sorcerer to install this thing properly
Haha not at all
i had to drill out the copper line and jb weld be carefull not to plug hole in housing ( sucks) on 8.5 chevy its offset to one side copper line for 8.5 is really short its hard to route!
You certainly shouldn't need to drill out any copper or use JB Weld..... What caused you to do that?
BROKE COPPER LINE AT THE HOUSING/ MY FAULT JUST TRIED TOSEE IF IT WOULD WORK WAITING ON NEW SEAL HOUSING ITS VERY SHORT IN THIS 8.5. ILL BE MORE CAREFULL NEXT TIME @@TheBFHGarage
@@TheBFHGarage YOUR VID ON THE DANA 30 WAS GREAT!!THANKS FOR YOUR INFO
@@TheBFHGarage got new seal housing today fixed
@@chuckzinn7334 good to hear👍
Será posible instalar este sistema en una vw t2, quiero mejorar mi vw t2, me puede dar algún consejo?
Lo siento, no estoy familiarizado con el VW t2.
@@TheBFHGarage si sabe algo a futuro estaré esperando sus videos, mas de alguna persona con una vw t2 estará interesada en hacer un video con usted
@@cvalp Agradezco el comentario, ¡pero no tengo ningún interés en nada más que Jeep Wranglers!
i have a depth gauge if you do a lot of rear ends, it's money well spent
Venden el kit completo
When in stalling the copper air tube , why not just delete the loop by cutting it to fit exact?
Cutting exact isn't as easy as it sounds. Leaving the line longer allows for more flex to route it up through the bulkhead fitting. Leaving extra line also allows for any damage that may have occurred at the bulkhead fitting.
@@TheBFHGarage i was going to ask this same question. in other words, the loop is for strain relief (prevent kinking) and built in slack for adjustment, NOT a specific design requirement?
Great video by the way. really good mix of technical, video, voice and editing. one of the better i have seen. if i had heat in my shop i would feel ok doing this myself but will be taking it somewhere.
@@johnhoover1999 exactly
How is the reliability of these?
They are the gold standard when they are set up correctly!