Here's a version of a pruning video with audio commentary instead of hard coded subtitles. Let me know if you like it better than the old approach (i have a poll going, in the community tab of my channel or you can comment below). I will still add English subtitles (not hard coded), for those who need them. These will have to be activated by the viewer. NOTE-CHECK BELOW for replies to FAQ. Table of Contents: 0:49 - First Pruning 2:17 - Removing suckers 3:28 - Removing excess fruits to prevent breaks and young tree exaustion 4:32 - Correcting Unpruned Apple Trees 6:53 - Summer pruning Aqui está uma nova versão de um video de poda com comentário audio em Inglês em vez das legendas embebidas no video. Mesmo se passar a usar esta opção, as legendas em Português continuarão a estar disponíveis em futuros vídeos. Aquí está una nueva versión de un vídeo de poda con comentarios de audio en Inglés en lugar de los subtítulos incrustados en el vídeo. Los subtítulos en Español seguirán estando disponibles en futuros vídeos. Voici une nouvelle version d'une vidéo de Taille avec commentaire audio en Anglais à la place des sous-titres incorporés dans la vidéo. Les sous-titres en Français seront toujours disponibles dans les prochaines vidéos. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ FAQ To be clear - Why did I leave the trees without pruning for a year ? Why not cut them at knee high since the beginning? If i had a recent apple orchard with very young trees I would have cut them at knee high and start forming all of them very early. And i did that with the all the apple trees i have. The problem is that I planted several rows of apple trees of the same variety (the ones i had access to at the time). In the last few years I was able to get my hands on scions of very good varieties, so i regrafted most of the trees (i have nearly 100 apple trees of more than 70 varieties and counting) . In an ideal situation, as soon as the grafts have reached enough height and if I was confident that they had taken, i could start forming the new tree, cutting at knee high (or a bit higher because of the graft) so the tree could start creating multiple stems early. But, these are new and precious varieties and i have lots of friends who bug me, to give them a few scions of each new one. So i let them grow for at least a year, unpruned, so i can harvest the scions in the winter. The problem is that some of these varieties are very vigorous and, left unattended, I end up with several trees that have grown too much and are quite a challenge to form. I could cut them short and start all over again, but at the expense of tasting a few fruits of these new awesome varieties, in their second year. The temptation is too great. So, in an ideal world i would not have these unpruned trees to retrain. Nevertheless, i am using them to show people that they can do it, even if they never pruned their trees since they planted them. But i see how this can be confusing for the viewer. I will try to make that point more clearer, in future videos.
Commentary is very much welcomed thanks for taking the extra time to do it. The music is good but there is no substitute for hearing your words of wisdom !
This was a very helpful and interesting video. The trees look very healthy,how ever they look better when pruned,and fruit is easyer to reach. Thank you for sharing.😊🍏🍎
Sir I am growing my 2 Apple tree in our country hope they will survive in Philippines 🇵🇭. Mine was already 6 months old. I will be watching some of your good videos. Thank you sir
Your videos are very helpful. This year I am summer pruning for the first time and it is already making a big difference. Not so much to do for winter pruning. Maybe next year I will use your instructions to try some grafting. Many thanks.
You are welcome. Summer pruning is a great way to control growth over the season and balance the tree. It also allows that more energy is directed to fruit growing instead of producing lots of growth from infertile wood. And, as you say, reduces substantially the winter work. In some fruit types, like plums and peaches is even recommended not to prune in winter as these types heal better in the spring and summer and might get diseased when winter pruned in very humid weather.
@@ilhsaadpietersen373 You get a fully grown tree from the root stock. There are various root stocks you can buy commercially, each derived from a particular size of tree. (Dwarf, semi dwarf, standard) Can be crab apple or a variety of different sources. (I tried to graft onto a quince once.) What you won't get is a particular variety of apple, which you can only get from grafting a small piece from an existing tree of that variety. I now have a dozen trees, all grafted from very old varieties onto root stock I grew myself from a Cortland variety tree's roots.
@@ilhsaadpietersen373 That depends on what the tree is. We graft so we can produce the apple (pear etc) variety we want. I have a Cox's Orange Pippin tree and I want more. So I take a scion from that tree and graft it onto root stock, which is cut down to a main stem with no branches. If the graft takes a tree will grow from the graft that is an Orange Pippin. It is more difficult but you can graft onto an existing fruit tree of a particular variety. If it works you will get two different varieties from that tree. If you buy a tree of a particular variety it will produce that variety. The issue then is how you PRUNE the tree to increase fruit buds. I learn new tricks by watching JSacadura's videos. He is very good. A good teacher and a very good orchard man.
I mainly use dwarfing rootstocks. These keep my trees small (easy to prune and easy to pick fruit) and they produce earlier and, usually, bigger fruits. The only drawback is that some need supporting because of the weak root system.
Thank you. I have been wondering what to do with my apple trees. I planted them last year and didn’t really prune them. They are both 8 feet tall with few side branches. I think I know what to do next. Thanks!
Hi, Vi. With apple trees, there is some pressure to use the 'right pruning method' for these fruit types, which most will say its the 'central leader' training system. Personally, i don't use it, as i like to keep my trees small, so i prefer the' open vase' (the training system i am showing in the video). There are other reasons, which i will explain in an upcoming video. Anyway, most growers don't like to prune their trees in the first year they are planted so, if you prune them next winter, you timing is just right. Good luck with your trees.
@@JSacadura Thank you for the reply,. I am from India, in my area we have tropical weather. You are from which nation?. Indeed your videos are excellent, keep it up👍
Informative video ❤️ I tried growing apples from seeds and now I have 3 apple trees. The biggest one I have is about more or less 4 or 5 months old, which is almost 2 feet height (only planted it in a pots). While the other two were still younger and less than a foot. I'm hoping to grow them to bear fruits someday. When can I start pruning my trees the first time?
I have 4 apple trees, that are already 4 to 5 years old. At first i marcoted them to clone from its mother trees. Now they're already big. I grafted some of my marcoted apples to some varieties and it seems okay. Now I've seen some fruit buds coming out after pruning and thinning from the mother trees. By the way I have also grafted varieties that produces fruit buds and turn into flowers. But sad to say it died back. But the grafted branch continues to grow higher.
My apples and pear espalier are in their first spring/summer after planting them in late winter. The first tier is growing well. Its now mid summer. I have some branch growth coming off the two trained laterals and some off the central leader. Should I be summer pruning in the first year on my first tier laterals? Is mid summer too late for that? I have one pear which has produced a few laterals off the central leader at a tier two height. Should I train those now or is it best to cut the central leader back in winter to start the next tier from fresh? Thanks
Thanks alot sir. Iam from manipur, India. Next year iam planning to plant HRMN-99, Anna and Dorsett golden Apple variety. Did you used any organic anti termites components sir.?
Apple trees grafted on drought resistant rootstocks can resist high temperatures. The problem might be the lack of cold days (in the winter), so they accumulate enough chill hours to produce fruit. Most varieties need a minimum of 400 hours below 7º C to produce fruits.
You don't say why to each pruning. Why did you cut tree shorter, trim the top cut with a knife, cut fruiting branches in half, why do you want a low tree, etc
Each branch will need much light ...and a low spreading tree will make all future work on it easy to reach while standing on the ground... These are healthy dwarfed trees and will put lots of growth out and too muck wood growthe will not promote fruit growth and quality from the sunlight it receives...😊
Why are there no leaves on these trees? This isn't same as the one am growing. They have leaves. Very wide, green, and sandpaper-like. Good job. Guess I can't follow your instructions here for mine. They seems to be different from this completely.
Queria pedir a você que por favor mantenha as legendas em português. Desde ja lhe agradeço pelas aulas maravilhosas ,estou aprendendo muito que Deus o abençoe!
Não se preocupe. Lucileide. A única mudança seria passar a incluir o comentário audio em vez das legendas fixas em inglês. Mas vou continuar a fazer legendas em outras línguas, para cada vídeo, incluindo Português.
Hello Brother, I've been growing Apple from seed too,but planted in a container,it has been probably more than 4yrs now,the tree look healthy and is around 5 feet tall,and did some pruning in winter but hasn't flower or bear any fruit yet..I've recently repotted it and cut off several root hair...When can I expect some fruits..Btw I am from Northeast India,we had moderate and pleasant climate throughout the year..Do I need to wait a little bit longer or what could be wrong here..Any suggestion..??
When grown from seed most fruit trees will take many years to produce fruits (7-8 years is not uncommon). And the resulting fruits might not be very good. That's why seedling trees are usually grafted with a good variety. The grafts will produce fruits in 2-3 years and the quality is known.
Bonjour et merci pour vos vidéos toujours très instructives. Je me pose une question concernant mon figuier en région parisienne qui a 30 ans et qui a un seul tronc qui monte à plus de 3 metres pour ensuite partir sur 3 branches horizontales. Donc il nourrissait bien les oiseaux, mais je ne pouvais pas cueillir les fruits. L'été dernier il n'a rien donné. Pensez vous que je peux le couper à 50 cm du sol et que cela l'encouragerait à faire un départ de 2 ou 3 charpentières ? le tronc fait bien 25 cm de diamètre. Merci de vos lumières et encore bravo pour vos vidéos
I prefer to use compost or manure whenever possible. But you can use any basic fertilizer with an adequate proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Hi I have one question for you and need your valuable advise. I have one apple plant 1.5 years old , which had grown upto 10 feet now in garden soil. It has grown straight, without any sub brunch. Plant trunk diameter apprx 1.5 cm Can I cut it at 5 or 6 feet height now to get more sub brunch from the cut? Please advise.
Então não usa a forma "eixo central revestido"que é agora o mais aconselhado? Abrindo em "taça" como fez vai precisar de podar todos os anos o que é muito trabalho para quem tem muitas macieiras. Plantei 20 macieiras este inverno e estou indecisa sobre a melhor forma de as conduzir. Estou no Minho. Obrigada
Olá, Atimati. O problema com a poda em eixo central que é, habitualmente, recomendada para macieiras e pereiras é que, com os porta-enxertos nanificantes que se usam hoje em dia (M9, M26 e outros) e que possuem sistemas radiculares muito débeis, a árvore precisa de um tutor ou vai inclinar à medida que cresce, com os ventos e a carga da fruta. Tenho as duas situações. Filas com postes e suporte em arame, em que a árvore vai sendo conduzida e apoiada (quase um eixo central a tender para o espalier) e a poda em vaso baixo. Esta última tem a grande vantagem de não precisar de suporte para a árvore, já que os ramos principais se mantêm curtos e o centro de gravidade é baixo, permitindo que a planta se suporte a si mesma, mesmo sem tutor. Se usar porta-enxertos mais robustos (MM106 ou Franco) e não tiver solo argiloso (que dá pouco suporte ao sistema radicular), principalmente quando chove bastante, pode optar pelo eixo central, mas e poderá evitar ter que dar apoio às árvores mas elas vão crescer bastante (aumentado muito o trabalho de poda, colheita, etc). Todas as plantações comerciais que usam o eixo central, na minha zona, têm apoio de arame. As que usam o vaso ou taça não o utilizam. Relativamente ao trabalho de poda, tenho mais de 100 macieiras e, como as mantenho baixas, o trabalho de poda não é assim tanto.
@@JSacadura obrigada. Aqui no Minho o solo é granitico/arenoso. As minhas macieiras estão enxertadas em MM 106. Umas estão bem mas, algumas Porta da Loja, a haste central cresceu demasiado em relação ás pernadas e vou ter de lhes fazer alguma coisa. Vou seguir o seu conselho e cortar a haste principal a algumas delas.Já agora, muitas das fruteiras vieram do Manuel, do Campo de Gerês que sei que conhece.
O MM106 é bastante robusto e já se consegue suportar sem apoio. Mesmo assim, com variedades muito vigorosas, pode acontecer que os ramos laterais fiquem bastante inibidos em relação ao eixo central. O Manuel é um bom amigo e já me arranjou também bastantes variedades portuguesas antigas, de boa qualidade.
@@JSacadura sim, tenho algumas assim. Tenho de fazer um corte no tronco principal para despertar ramos laterais mais fortes. Quanto ao Manuel, o que é que ele não tem ? :-)
I found a big misunderstanding in all pruning videos and books. Christian new year is at the beginning of winter. My country Iran celebrates new year at beginning of spring. So when you are pruning a tree at fall you call the branch "this year's growth" and when before buds swell "last year's growth" while these two are the same branches and in my language translation they must be referred as "current year's branch" . This has led to so many confusions in translated books.
Here I am in Quebec. I planted an apple tree 5 years ago in a full sun spot. I give water every day. There are apple trees in the same street. Now it is 2-3 meters tall. But I never have more than 10 blooms every year. May I ask why？
I think it is only a young tree... Do not cut more than 1/3 or 1/2 of in 1 year or else you get to much stick growth without the frit buds on it ( which take 2 years to grow fruit buds)).,
boa noite,jaime sacadura.interessante ,como sempre.(video).Jaime,tenho uns bacelos que plantei este JANEIRO PASSADO,COMO TUTOR DOS BACELOS USEI,as varas (sarmentos),das ameixas que lá existem...problema...os bacelos (alguns ) estao mirrados,as estacas de ameixa medraram deveras.Será preciso enxerta-las ? quero deixar algumas...abraço
Olá, albano. Depende um pouco da variedade, mas as ameixoeiras costumam dar-se bem nas suas próprias raízes. O único problema é que a árvore resultante pode crescer bastante mais do que se for enxertada num porta-enxerto moderno. Mas, se tiver espaço, e não se importar de, todos os anos, lhes dar uma boa poda, para as manter de um tamanho aceitável, pode utilizá-las.
I just started my food forest.. I have apple and European/Asian pear varieties on M110 and anironka stock. They were never pruned yet, but I intend to prune them this winter (February on east coast USA). I would like to keep all my cuttings, but My available root stock trees are tiny and could not support the cuttings. What can i do with these cuttings?
When I don't have rootstocks and I want to preserve scions for more than a few months, I might graft them to branches of existing trees, so they can survive until the next grafting season. Another option is trying to root some of them and take new cuttings from those rooted trees in the following year (when the root stocks are already the right size for grafting)
Disasters from pruning? Not really. Trees always bounce back, even if you make a few mistakes while learning. Its worst to leave them unpruned, as the problems can be much worse, like breakages from too much weight. But i did kill a few young trees in the early days. Mainly from forcing the trees to bear excessively and from leaving too much fruit in very young trees. The trees exhausted themselves and never bounced back.
Yes, you could use that branch tip as a scion and it will work perfectly. Nevertheless, if I have enough material to choose, I prefer to remove a longer one year old branch and use the middle part for grafting (excluding a few inches from the tip and from the base).
This would have been a lot better & more useful video if you mentioned WHY you were doing everything. For example, why did you shorten the branches? To make them stiffer in the future? Or is there some other reason?
why did you shorten the branches? To make them stiffer in the future? Yes, precisely. Thin and long branches can't support fruit. I explained the reason for most of these actions in previous pruning videos, like this one - ua-cam.com/video/buziSuLiUhY/v-deo.html min. 11.07 - Heading Cuts. And I thought that repeating the explanation would be tedious but, in retrospect, for viewers that didn't saw previous videos, its not clear. I will try to give a short explanation for each action in future videos. Thanks for the comment.
Its always best to prune in stages. Less pruning can always be corrected in the following year. Nevertheless, even if you prune to much, the tree will bounce back and you can train it better in the following years.
Your English pronunciation is very good .you pronounce tree as Twee. ." Center of the tree" " next year i can prune to final shape" clear as a bell. "Like and subscribe , and share to support the channel " very well understood by and English only American speaker from the south. Easy to understand than many Great Britizn English speakers
Thanks for the feedback, Bob. I appreciate it. I don't have many opportunities of speaking English. The last time i had to speak in English was when a friend from the USA visited me, last August. So, the words don't flow easily and the tongue gets all twisted, trying to enunciate correctly. If i start doing a voice over, it probably will improve with time. Thanks again for your comment.
Hi, Bob. Over here, most of the films and television series have an American origin. And, luckily they are not dubbed. I hate dubbed movies as the voice of an actor is an important part of who he is and an important part of his culture. So, fortunately, unlike Spain, we use subtitles. That allows us, from a very young age, to learn how English sounds. With training, we can watch the movie, hear the actors and check if the translator got it right in the subtitles (most don't). So, i now how English should sound. The problem is being able to replicate it, when speaking ;-)
I would water once a week after planting when they are establishing themselves. Roughly 2 gallons (8 liters) are usually enough, depending on the soil and temperature (more water in the summer months, much less in colder water months). I use a drip system that maintains moisture evenly, throughout the week, but it can be tricky to control and if the temperature is too high and its not adjusted, some young trees might dry out.
The low branches make the task of removing the weeds near the tree's base more difficult. The longer branches will set too much fruit and might break with the weight. You have to cut them in half in such a young tree (and I was still a bit conservative, as these apples are very heavy for such thin branches).
@@JSacadura ah thank you for the advice. I have not yet pruned my trees, they're about 2 years old or so, but I plan to do it this winter. It makes me nervous to cut branches on such small trees but I know that's what I have to do to make them stronger. Two of them fruited a tiny bit this year, but most dropped their apples after a month, I assumed because the tree was focusing it's energy on growing.
You are right. In most cases the tree will shed the fruits, and concentrate its energy on growing. Nevertheless, in some cases, some varieties will try to develop every fruit that sets and will exhaust themselves doing so, and might even die, in that winter (due to low energy reserves).
Dear sir, I am writing to request seedlings and cion from your apple farm. As a fellow enthusiast, I hope to cultivate the same quality of apples that your farm produces. I would greatly appreciate your assistance in this endeavor. Thank you in advance.
Saludos a nustros vecinos portugueses. Me gustaría realizarte una breve consulta que espero pueda ayudar a otras personas que se están iniciando en la poda de frutales. Especificamente en la parte de poda de formación. Cuando realizamos una poda de formación en vaso a 3 ramas o 4 ramas. La inserción de estas ramas parten de diferentes alturas. Si hemos decidido la altura a la cruz del frutal por ejemplo 90 cm se supone que es a la primera rama no al despunte. Entonces es cuando pensamos en la longitud de la ramas del primer piso si yo decido darle 1 metro tengo que dejar niveladas todas a una logitud similar pra que el primer piso este más o menos a la misma altura. La longitud del primer piso lse toma desde la rama que están en primer lugar o desde la que está más abajo. Es decir si yo le doy 1 metro a la inferior tendré que darle 80 o 70 cm al despunte a la que está en primer lugar. Espero haberme explicado bien. Un saludo y gracias por tu ayuda.
Si se piensa en la longitud total de cada rama y si se pretenden cortar todas a la misma altura máxima seria necesario ir reduciendo la longitud de cada una, como está diciendo. Pero, eso seria suponiendo un crecimiento únicamente vertical (que no es deseable). Así, lo más importante es verificar si el árbol tiene todas las ramas equilibradas, sin ninguna demasiado vigorosa o con demasiada longitud. Yo prefiero ir podando el árbol, cada año, intentando obtener una forma final equilibrada y corrigiendo cada rama, en función de lo que creo necesario.
i think you must study more for pruning . especially in Italy n America n Korea. these countries are has good skills. maybe i don't know what India's weather or soil conditions n so on. even though i wanna suggest you to study more. good luck
Hi, James. I am not located in India. Don't know why you would think that (in the About tab of my channel, i clearly state i am located in Portugal). Regarding the study of pruning. You are quite right. I am a constant student of all the things related with growing fruits. I have a lot to learn. One of the things i really don't do is take what its know as the 'norm', and apply it blindly. I like to experiment for myself and see the results first hand. And, having several hundred fruit trees, not for commercial production, but for personal use, in my orchard, i can afford to experiment, draw my own conclusions and share them with others. Always alerting that i am in zone 9A and my results may not be exactly duplicated in other zones. As we all know, agricultural practices are local and are difficult to reproduce in different environmental conditions. Thanks for the comment.
Is it possible? I want to grow apple trees in Bangladesh. Bangladesh has a tropical monsoon climate characterised by wide seasonal variations in rainfall, high temperatures, and high humidity. ... In general, maximum summer temperatures range between 38 and 41 °C (100.4 and 105.8 °F). April is the hottest month in most parts of the country.
Hi, Azizul. The plastic at the base of the tree is needed because of the rabbits. While they are young, if the rabbits chew the bark all around the base of the rootstock, they will kill the tree. Apple trees can resist high temperatures for several weeks, if they are well irrigated . The problem might be the lack of cold days (in the winter, in our zone), so they accumulate enough chill hours to produce fruit. Most varieties need a minimum of 400 hours below 7º C to produce fruits. There are some that need less, like Anna and they are your best bet, to try growing apples, if you don't have the chill hours. Beware that another variety is usually needed for cross-pollination - check here, for more information - www.orangepippin.com/varieties/apples/anna
Me da risa....le poda el cogollo y las ramas laterales superiores...y luego vuelve a cortar más abajo de nuevo....¿porqué no hace este último corte sin cortar primero las ramas superiores?
El objetivo es mostrar a la gente que podar no tiene que ser un ato único. Se puede hacer por fases. Es mejor podar menos, mirar el árbol y decidir que es necesario cortar un poco más, que cortar demasiado, ya que, en este caso, no se puede volver atrás.
I apologize, but it seems as if you are just as confused as me. I understand pruning. But, why are you pruning certain branches and why aren't you pruning others? Also, when you prune a tree down, it forces the tree to concentrate or focus it's energy on root development. That new found root development will assist in the production of the fruit. So, shorter trees that have been pruned should be able to harvest sweeter, more ripe fruit that a tree with twice more fruit and the same about of roots. But, my concern is why are you trimming some and not others? How come you don't get rid of main stem coming from the roots and create multiple stems early? I would understand if you eliminated the main root stem in exchange for multiple side branches that you would train to give strength to support fruit production, but none of that is clear. The only thing that I have learned from this video is that I should prune, which is good but more information is needed.
You are entirely correct. I sold have been more clearer as to why the trees are the way they are. If i had a recent apple orchard with very young trees you would see all of them pruned precisely as you say - i would have cut them at knee high and start forming all of them very early. And i did that with the trees i have. The problem is that i planted rows of apples of the same variety (the ones i had access to at the time). In the last few years i was able to get my hands on scions of very good varieties, so i regrafted most of the trees (i have nearly 100 apple trees of more than 70 varieties and counting) . In an ideal situation, as soon as the grafts have reached enough height and if i was confident that they had taken, i could start forming the new tree, cutting at knee high ), or a bit higher because of the graft and creating multiple stems early. But, these are new and precious varieties and i have lots of friends who bug me, to give them a few scions of each new one. So i let them grow for at least a year, unpruned, so i can harvest the scions in the winter. The problem is that some of these varieties are very vigorous and, left unattended, i end up with several trees that have grown too much and are quite a challenge to form. I could cut them short and start all over again, but at the expense of tasting a few fruits of these new awesome varieties. The temptation is too great. Do you see my problem?. So, you are completely right and in an ideal world i would not have these unpruned trees to retrain. Nevertheless, i am using them to show people that they can do it, even if they never pruned their trees since they planted them. But i see how this can be confusing for the viewer. I will try to make it more clearer, in future videos.
Hi friend iam from india hear summer temparature april and may very hot 45 degrees iwant suggetion ur any varity ur prefarable friend iam following ur you tube regularly pls giveme advoice thanq
Hi. Apple trees can resist high temperatures for several weeks, if they are well irrigated . The problem might be the lack of cold days (in the winter), so they accumulate enough chill hours to produce fruit. Most varieties need a minimum of 400 hours below 7º C to produce fruits. There are some that need less, like Anna and they are your best bet if you don't have the chill hours. Beware that another variety is usually needed for cross-pollination - check here, for more information - www.orangepippin.com/varieties/apples/anna
Don’t let trees bear fruit that young as shown in the first portion!! Pick them off at about the size of a us quarter. Or really any of the trees shown in the video... too small! Give it at least 3/4 years, let it focus growth in branches and roots not seeds.
Young trees should not be allowed to grow fruits, so they can concentrate in growing. I didn't cut too much. In fact i should have cut even more fruits off (but i want to taste this new variety, this year).
All the wood from that pruning was given to friends. Its a new variety and its supposed to be very good. So i saved every little piece pruned so people could use it to graft their rootstocks.
I never air layer apple trees. They best varieties don't grow well on their own roots. Its always better to use a good rootstock, disease resistant, well adapted to the type of soil and, ideally, one that dwarfs the final tree and speeds up production. Most modern rootstocks are very good at almost all those things. So, i prefer to take scions from the good varieties and graft them. Regarding the variety you are asking about, it hasn't matured yet (probably, late September), so we have to wait to find out how it tastes.
Bonjour et merci pour vos vidéos toujours très instructives. Je me pose une question concernant mon figuier en région parisienne qui a 30 ans et qui a un seul tronc qui monte à plus de 3 metres pour ensuite partir sur 3 branches horizontales. Donc il nourrissait bien les oiseaux, mais je ne pouvais pas cueillir les fruits. L'été dernier il n'a rien donné. Pensez vous que je peux le couper à 50 cm du sol et que cela l'encouragerait à faire un départ de 2 ou 3 charpentières ? le tronc fait bien 25 cm de diamètre. Merci de vos lumières et encore bravo pour vos vidéos
Merci, Joel. Je m'excuse pour la réponse tardive. Les figuiers plus âgés ne réagissent généralement pas très bien aux coupes drastiques. Je l'ai déjà fait, avec succès dans la plupart des cas. Cependant, il existe un risque de dessèchement de la zone de coupe après quelques années, même si elle émet initialement de nouvelles branches. Cependant, le système racinaire émettra toujours de nouvelles branches (parfois même trop de nouvelles branches) et, si la variété n'est pas greffée, il en résultera un nouvel arbre qui peut être guidé et taillé plus bas afin que ce ne soient pas seulement les oiseaux qui mangent les figues.
"The energy of young trees should be concentrated on growing, not fruiting."
Best advice ever for any plant.
This is amazing, I’m so glade I found this Channel. Truly amazing old school. The best you can learn from👌👌
This is so informative, easy to follow and to the point. Thank you sir!
Here's a version of a pruning video with audio commentary instead of hard coded subtitles. Let me know if you like it better than the old approach (i have a poll going, in the community tab of my channel or you can comment below). I will still add English subtitles (not hard coded), for those who need them. These will have to be activated by the viewer. NOTE-CHECK BELOW for replies to FAQ.
Table of Contents:
0:49 - First Pruning
2:17 - Removing suckers
3:28 - Removing excess fruits to prevent breaks and young tree exaustion
4:32 - Correcting Unpruned Apple Trees
6:53 - Summer pruning
Aqui está uma nova versão de um video de poda com comentário audio em Inglês em vez das legendas embebidas no video. Mesmo se passar a usar esta opção, as legendas em Português continuarão a estar disponíveis em futuros vídeos.
Aquí está una nueva versión de un vídeo de poda con comentarios de audio en Inglés en lugar de los subtítulos incrustados en el vídeo. Los subtítulos en Español seguirán estando disponibles en futuros vídeos.
Voici une nouvelle version d'une vidéo de Taille avec commentaire audio en Anglais à la place des sous-titres incorporés dans la vidéo. Les sous-titres en Français seront toujours disponibles dans les prochaines vidéos.
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FAQ
To be clear - Why did I leave the trees without pruning for a year ? Why not cut them at knee high since the beginning?
If i had a recent apple orchard with very young trees I would have cut them at knee high and start forming all of them very early. And i did that with the all the apple trees i have.
The problem is that I planted several rows of apple trees of the same variety (the ones i had access to at the time). In the last few years I was able to get my hands on scions of very good varieties, so i regrafted most of the trees (i have nearly 100 apple trees of more than 70 varieties and counting) .
In an ideal situation, as soon as the grafts have reached enough height and if I was confident that they had taken, i could start forming the new tree, cutting at knee high (or a bit higher because of the graft) so the tree could start creating multiple stems early.
But, these are new and precious varieties and i have lots of friends who bug me, to give them a few scions of each new one. So i let them grow for at least a year, unpruned, so i can harvest the scions in the winter. The problem is that some of these varieties are very vigorous and, left unattended, I end up with several trees that have grown too much and are quite a challenge to form.
I could cut them short and start all over again, but at the expense of tasting a few fruits of these new awesome varieties, in their second year. The temptation is too great.
So, in an ideal world i would not have these unpruned trees to retrain. Nevertheless, i am using them to show people that they can do it, even if they never pruned their trees since they planted them. But i see how this can be confusing for the viewer. I will try to make that point more clearer, in future videos.
está perfeito assim,apraz-me muito.abraço
Whichever is easier for you, I like both.
Commentary is very much welcomed thanks for taking the extra time to do it. The music is good but there is no substitute for hearing your words of wisdom !
English is my first language. So, I appreciate hearing your instructions in my language.
I prefer to hear the instructions as it is difficult to read and watch at the same time. Love your videos. Thank you ☺️👍
this is the best video i've seen on pruning
This was a very helpful and interesting video.
The trees look very healthy,how ever they look better when pruned,and fruit is easyer to reach.
Thank you for sharing.😊🍏🍎
You're welcome, Debra. Thanks for the incentive. I will post a new video with mature fruits in these and other young fruits in a few weeks.
@@JSacadura
Great!!..😃
Excellent, thank you for imparting your knowledge. :)
Sir I am growing my 2 Apple tree in our country hope they will survive in Philippines 🇵🇭. Mine was already 6 months old. I will be watching some of your good videos. Thank you sir
Your videos are very helpful. This year I am summer pruning for the first time and it is already making a big difference. Not so much to do for winter pruning. Maybe next year I will use your instructions to try some grafting. Many thanks.
You are welcome. Summer pruning is a great way to control growth over the season and balance the tree. It also allows that more energy is directed to fruit growing instead of producing lots of growth from infertile wood. And, as you say, reduces substantially the winter work.
In some fruit types, like plums and peaches is even recommended not to prune in winter as these types heal better in the spring and summer and might get diseased when winter pruned in very humid weather.
What happens if you don't graft an Apple tree. Thanks
@@ilhsaadpietersen373 You get a fully grown tree from the root stock. There are various root stocks you can buy commercially, each derived from a particular size of tree. (Dwarf, semi dwarf, standard) Can be crab apple or a variety of different sources. (I tried to graft onto a quince once.) What you won't get is a particular variety of apple, which you can only get from grafting a small piece from an existing tree of that variety. I now have a dozen trees, all grafted from very old varieties onto root stock I grew myself from a Cortland variety tree's roots.
Will the Apple tree bare fruit if it's not grafted. Many thanks
@@ilhsaadpietersen373 That depends on what the tree is. We graft so we can produce the apple (pear etc) variety we want. I have a Cox's Orange Pippin tree and I want more. So I take a scion from that tree and graft it onto root stock, which is cut down to a main stem with no branches. If the graft takes a tree will grow from the graft that is an Orange Pippin. It is more difficult but you can graft onto an existing fruit tree of a particular variety. If it works you will get two different varieties from that tree. If you buy a tree of a particular variety it will produce that variety. The issue then is how you PRUNE the tree to increase fruit buds. I learn new tricks by watching JSacadura's videos. He is very good. A good teacher and a very good orchard man.
Very simple and easy explaining informative. 👌
i just cut off the top off some of my new fruit trees to dwarf them. I assume branches will come back! and pruning can resume.
Very nice idea, thank you very much. Next post video clearly & freshly made. All the best.
Very informative! Thank you. Greetings from USA
Videos muito bons. Obrigado, Parabéns e Energia para mais!! 💚
Great info! Thank you!
Is there a tree shape that you’re shooting for? Seems like smaller trees is your goal? Fruit production first?
I mainly use dwarfing rootstocks. These keep my trees small (easy to prune and easy to pick fruit) and they produce earlier and, usually, bigger fruits. The only drawback is that some need supporting because of the weak root system.
Herzlichen Grüß aus Österreich. Vielen Dank. Tolle Video.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment and support.
Awesome video.
Love your videos, thank you.
Hello from New Zealand …Those are great tips ...
I tied my apple tree vertical nursery growth to string and am training them with landscaping staples.
Thank you. I have been wondering what to do with my apple trees. I planted them last year and didn’t really prune them. They are both 8 feet tall with few side branches. I think I know what to do next. Thanks!
Hi, Vi. With apple trees, there is some pressure to use the 'right pruning method' for these fruit types, which most will say its the 'central leader' training system. Personally, i don't use it, as i like to keep my trees small, so i prefer the' open vase' (the training system i am showing in the video). There are other reasons, which i will explain in an upcoming video. Anyway, most growers don't like to prune their trees in the first year they are planted so, if you prune them next winter, you timing is just right. Good luck with your trees.
Mantap sukses selalu 🇮🇩👍🏼🔔
so nice. thanks for sharing.
I like your video thank you for you sharing this video.
Gostei a tempo queria ver esta maravilha de matéria obrigado mande outros vídeos
Splendid video!
Nice, appreciate if you share Guava plant growing techniques till fruiting 🙏
Sorry. Guava doesn't grow in my area and I only share my own experiences.
@@JSacadura Thank you for the reply,. I am from India, in my area we have tropical weather. You are from which nation?. Indeed your videos are excellent, keep it up👍
Seu canal é muito bom.
Video maravilhoso bem explicado, e com a legenda em português fica muito melhor !
Informative video ❤️ I tried growing apples from seeds and now I have 3 apple trees. The biggest one I have is about more or less 4 or 5 months old, which is almost 2 feet height (only planted it in a pots). While the other two were still younger and less than a foot. I'm hoping to grow them to bear fruits someday. When can I start pruning my trees the first time?
The year after you put them in the ground
I grew thousands from seed you get giant trees, this way, not dwarf for a semi dwarf, but a real tree that you could climb😊
Great vid! What sheath do you use on your belt?
Thanks for information
Thank you!
Perfect!
Obrigado!
Feliz Ano Novo! dos irmãos latinos na Romênia!
I have 4 apple trees, that are already 4 to 5 years old. At first i marcoted them to clone from its mother trees. Now they're already big. I grafted some of my marcoted apples to some varieties and it seems okay. Now I've seen some fruit buds coming out after pruning and thinning from the mother trees. By the way I have also grafted varieties that produces fruit buds and turn into flowers. But sad to say it died back. But the grafted branch continues to grow higher.
Keep going
Very good tips
Nice 💖💖💖💖😃😃😃😃👏👏👏👏
My apples and pear espalier are in their first spring/summer after planting them in late winter. The first tier is growing well. Its now mid summer. I have some branch growth coming off the two trained laterals and some off the central leader. Should I be summer pruning in the first year on my first tier laterals? Is mid summer too late for that? I have one pear which has produced a few laterals off the central leader at a tier two height. Should I train those now or is it best to cut the central leader back in winter to start the next tier from fresh? Thanks
This is a luxurious fruit not for business. No easy to manage and plant
timely information for me Friend, Thanks...God bless ...doug
Thanks alot sir. Iam from manipur, India. Next year iam planning to plant HRMN-99, Anna and Dorsett golden Apple variety. Did you used any organic anti termites components sir.?
Thanks man
Obrigado. Muito bem explicado e exemplificado. Awesome video.
كم اعلى درجة حرارة يتحملها التفاح
جميل جدا جدا ومفيد هذا التقرير
Apple trees grafted on drought resistant rootstocks can resist high temperatures. The problem might be the lack of cold days (in the winter), so they accumulate enough chill hours to produce fruit. Most varieties need a minimum of 400 hours below 7º C to produce fruits.
You don't say why to each pruning. Why did you cut tree shorter, trim the top cut with a knife, cut fruiting branches in half, why do you want a low tree, etc
Each branch will need much light ...and a low spreading tree will make all future work on it easy to reach while standing on the ground... These are healthy dwarfed trees and will put lots of growth out and too muck wood growthe will not promote fruit growth and quality from the sunlight it receives...😊
good.
Is necessary to remove all leaves if we prune apple trees?
Can you tell what to spray for pink bud can give good crop
Buenísimos los vídeos pero me gustaría que estuvieran en español
Why are there no leaves on these trees? This isn't same as the one am growing. They have leaves. Very wide, green, and sandpaper-like. Good job. Guess I can't follow your instructions here for mine. They seems to be different from this completely.
Amader Bangladesh a apple gache avabe korle hobe...amar apple gach ache onk boro...
Queria pedir a você que por favor mantenha as legendas em português. Desde ja lhe agradeço pelas aulas maravilhosas ,estou aprendendo muito que Deus o abençoe!
Não se preocupe. Lucileide. A única mudança seria passar a incluir o comentário audio em vez das legendas fixas em inglês. Mas vou continuar a fazer legendas em outras línguas, para cada vídeo, incluindo Português.
Please what rootstock are your apple trees grafted on?
Can you remove blossoms to prevent fruiting?
Hello Brother, I've been growing Apple from seed too,but planted in a container,it has been probably more than 4yrs now,the tree look healthy and is around 5 feet tall,and did some pruning in winter but hasn't flower or bear any fruit yet..I've recently repotted it and cut off several root hair...When can I expect some fruits..Btw I am from Northeast India,we had moderate and pleasant climate throughout the year..Do I need to wait a little bit longer or what could be wrong here..Any suggestion..??
When grown from seed most fruit trees will take many years to produce fruits (7-8 years is not uncommon). And the resulting fruits might not be very good. That's why seedling trees are usually grafted with a good variety. The grafts will produce fruits in 2-3 years and the quality is known.
Kindly explain about what is this in trunk you wrapped , and what's its roll
Bonjour et merci pour vos vidéos toujours très instructives. Je
me pose une question concernant mon figuier en région parisienne qui a
30 ans et qui a un seul tronc qui monte à plus de 3 metres pour ensuite
partir sur 3 branches horizontales. Donc il nourrissait bien les
oiseaux, mais je ne pouvais pas cueillir les fruits. L'été dernier il n'a rien donné. Pensez vous que je peux le
couper à 50 cm du sol et que cela l'encouragerait à faire un départ de 2
ou 3 charpentières ? le tronc fait bien 25 cm de diamètre. Merci de vos
lumières et encore bravo pour vos vidéos
Hello im from philippines i have some seedgrown apple and pear trees what are your fertilizer used?
I prefer to use compost or manure whenever possible. But you can use any basic fertilizer with an adequate proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
@@JSacadura thank you so much for your reply appreciate it. I learned a lot in your pruning videos
Hi
I have one question for you and need your valuable advise.
I have one apple plant 1.5 years old , which had grown upto 10 feet now in garden soil.
It has grown straight, without any sub brunch.
Plant trunk diameter apprx 1.5 cm
Can I cut it at 5 or 6 feet height now to get more sub brunch from the cut?
Please advise.
Yes... cut back for lower branches and put a slight
" notch" cut above the buds where you want a branch to grow in each direction.!
Do u know the way to prune apple trees if done in high density plantation atleat 1.5 plant to plant distance
Então não usa a forma "eixo central revestido"que é agora o mais aconselhado? Abrindo em "taça" como fez vai precisar de podar todos os anos o que é muito trabalho para quem tem muitas macieiras. Plantei 20 macieiras este inverno e estou indecisa sobre a melhor forma de as conduzir. Estou no Minho. Obrigada
Olá, Atimati. O problema com a poda em eixo central que é, habitualmente, recomendada para macieiras e pereiras é que, com os porta-enxertos nanificantes que se usam hoje em dia (M9, M26 e outros) e que possuem sistemas radiculares muito débeis, a árvore precisa de um tutor ou vai inclinar à medida que cresce, com os ventos e a carga da fruta. Tenho as duas situações. Filas com postes e suporte em arame, em que a árvore vai sendo conduzida e apoiada (quase um eixo central a tender para o espalier) e a poda em vaso baixo. Esta última tem a grande vantagem de não precisar de suporte para a árvore, já que os ramos principais se mantêm curtos e o centro de gravidade é baixo, permitindo que a planta se suporte a si mesma, mesmo sem tutor. Se usar porta-enxertos mais robustos (MM106 ou Franco) e não tiver solo argiloso (que dá pouco suporte ao sistema radicular), principalmente quando chove bastante, pode optar pelo eixo central, mas e poderá evitar ter que dar apoio às árvores mas elas vão crescer bastante (aumentado muito o trabalho de poda, colheita, etc). Todas as plantações comerciais que usam o eixo central, na minha zona, têm apoio de arame. As que usam o vaso ou taça não o utilizam. Relativamente ao trabalho de poda, tenho mais de 100 macieiras e, como as mantenho baixas, o trabalho de poda não é assim tanto.
@@JSacadura obrigada. Aqui no Minho o solo é granitico/arenoso. As minhas macieiras estão enxertadas em MM 106. Umas estão bem mas, algumas Porta da Loja, a haste central cresceu demasiado em relação ás pernadas e vou ter de lhes fazer alguma coisa. Vou seguir o seu conselho e cortar a haste principal a algumas delas.Já agora, muitas das fruteiras vieram do Manuel, do Campo de Gerês que sei que conhece.
O MM106 é bastante robusto e já se consegue suportar sem apoio. Mesmo assim, com variedades muito vigorosas, pode acontecer que os ramos laterais fiquem bastante inibidos em relação ao eixo central. O Manuel é um bom amigo e já me arranjou também bastantes variedades portuguesas antigas, de boa qualidade.
@@JSacadura sim, tenho algumas assim. Tenho de fazer um corte no tronco principal para despertar ramos laterais mais fortes. Quanto ao Manuel, o que é que ele não tem ? :-)
Mantap.apelnya.
I found a big misunderstanding in all pruning videos and books.
Christian new year is at the beginning of winter. My country Iran celebrates new year at beginning of spring. So when you are pruning a tree at fall you call the branch "this year's growth" and when before buds swell "last year's growth" while these two are the same branches and in my language translation they must be referred as "current year's branch" . This has led to so many confusions in translated books.
Here I am in Quebec. I planted an apple tree 5 years ago in a full sun spot. I give water every day. There are apple trees in the same street. Now it is 2-3 meters tall. But I never have more than 10 blooms every year. May I ask why？
I think it is only a young tree... Do not cut more than 1/3 or 1/2 of in 1 year or else you get to much stick growth without the frit buds on it
( which take 2 years to grow fruit buds)).,
I wish you could prune my apple tree for me. Sadly I just lost my bing cherry tree due to fungus.
boa noite,jaime sacadura.interessante ,como sempre.(video).Jaime,tenho uns bacelos que plantei este JANEIRO PASSADO,COMO TUTOR DOS BACELOS USEI,as varas (sarmentos),das ameixas que lá existem...problema...os bacelos (alguns ) estao mirrados,as estacas de ameixa medraram deveras.Será preciso enxerta-las ? quero deixar algumas...abraço
Olá, albano. Depende um pouco da variedade, mas as ameixoeiras costumam dar-se bem nas suas próprias raízes. O único problema é que a árvore resultante pode crescer bastante mais do que se for enxertada num porta-enxerto moderno. Mas, se tiver espaço, e não se importar de, todos os anos, lhes dar uma boa poda, para as manter de um tamanho aceitável, pode utilizá-las.
I just started my food forest.. I have apple and European/Asian pear varieties on M110 and anironka stock. They were never pruned yet, but I intend to prune them this winter (February on east coast USA). I would like to keep all my cuttings, but My available root stock trees are tiny and could not support the cuttings. What can i do with these cuttings?
When I don't have rootstocks and I want to preserve scions for more than a few months, I might graft them to branches of existing trees, so they can survive until the next grafting season. Another option is trying to root some of them and take new cuttings from those rooted trees in the following year (when the root stocks are already the right size for grafting)
JSacadura thank you!
Time when pruning will do. pl reply.
I am new to fruit trees. Please tell me you had a few disasters along the way.
Disasters from pruning? Not really. Trees always bounce back, even if you make a few mistakes while learning. Its worst to leave them unpruned, as the problems can be much worse, like breakages from too much weight. But i did kill a few young trees in the early days. Mainly from forcing the trees to bear excessively and from leaving too much fruit in very young trees. The trees exhausted themselves and never bounced back.
@@JSacadura The roots and good foundation is the most important part? It makes sense. Thank you for educating me. You are an inspiration.
Could the cutting around 5:20 be used as Scions?
Yes, you could use that branch tip as a scion and it will work perfectly. Nevertheless, if I have enough material to choose, I prefer to remove a longer one year old branch and use the middle part for grafting (excluding a few inches from the tip and from the base).
@@JSacadura Thank-You for your prompt reply and these videos with the camera work, your artistic abilities, and now the voice overs, Excellent work!
This would have been a lot better & more useful video if you mentioned WHY you were doing everything. For example, why did you shorten the branches? To make them stiffer in the future? Or is there some other reason?
why did you shorten the branches? To make them stiffer in the future?
Yes, precisely. Thin and long branches can't support fruit.
I explained the reason for most of these actions in previous pruning videos, like this one - ua-cam.com/video/buziSuLiUhY/v-deo.html
min. 11.07 - Heading Cuts. And I thought that repeating the explanation would be tedious but, in retrospect, for viewers that didn't saw previous videos, its not clear.
I will try to give a short explanation for each action in future videos. Thanks for the comment.
👍
I wish I could do this but I just dont get what im doing i think I cut to much of my pare tree
Its always best to prune in stages. Less pruning can always be corrected in the following year. Nevertheless, even if you prune to much, the tree will bounce back and you can train it better in the following years.
How old the first prunning
Your English pronunciation is very good .you pronounce tree as Twee. ." Center of the tree" " next year i can prune to final shape" clear as a bell.
"Like and subscribe , and share to support the channel " very well understood by and English only American speaker from the south.
Easy to understand than many Great Britizn English speakers
Thanks for the feedback, Bob. I appreciate it. I don't have many opportunities of speaking English. The last time i had to speak in English was when a friend from the USA visited me, last August. So, the words don't flow easily and the tongue gets all twisted, trying to enunciate correctly. If i start doing a voice over, it probably will improve with time. Thanks again for your comment.
@@JSacadura How did you learn how to speak American English so well?
Hi, Bob. Over here, most of the films and television series have an American origin. And, luckily they are not dubbed. I hate dubbed movies as the voice of an actor is an important part of who he is and an important part of his culture. So, fortunately, unlike Spain, we use subtitles. That allows us, from a very young age, to learn how English sounds. With training, we can watch the movie, hear the actors and check if the translator got it right in the subtitles (most don't). So, i now how English should sound. The problem is being able to replicate it, when speaking ;-)
Where is this?
Keren sayangnya ga ada translitnya
How much water do young trees need?
I would water once a week after planting when they are establishing themselves. Roughly 2 gallons (8 liters) are usually enough, depending on the soil and temperature (more water in the summer months, much less in colder water months). I use a drip system that maintains moisture evenly, throughout the week, but it can be tricky to control and if the temperature is too high and its not adjusted, some young trees might dry out.
Why center leader cut
you shuld remuve fruts when they are smaller i think
but nice video
Yes, I should. But the lack of time and being and unknow variety led to this situation and that was the only option. Thanks for the comment.
What exactly is the reasoning for removing the low branches, and for cutting the length of the branches in half? Don't you want long branches?
The low branches make the task of removing the weeds near the tree's base more difficult. The longer branches will set too much fruit and might break with the weight. You have to cut them in half in such a young tree (and I was still a bit conservative, as these apples are very heavy for such thin branches).
@@JSacadura ah thank you for the advice. I have not yet pruned my trees, they're about 2 years old or so, but I plan to do it this winter. It makes me nervous to cut branches on such small trees but I know that's what I have to do to make them stronger. Two of them fruited a tiny bit this year, but most dropped their apples after a month, I assumed because the tree was focusing it's energy on growing.
You are right. In most cases the tree will shed the fruits, and concentrate its energy on growing. Nevertheless, in some cases, some varieties will try to develop every fruit that sets and will exhaust themselves doing so, and might even die, in that winter (due to low energy reserves).
Dear sir,
I am writing to request seedlings and cion from your apple farm. As a fellow enthusiast, I hope to cultivate the same quality of apples that your farm produces. I would greatly appreciate your assistance in this endeavor. Thank you in advance.
Saludos a nustros vecinos portugueses.
Me gustaría realizarte una breve consulta que espero pueda ayudar a otras personas que se están iniciando en la poda de frutales. Especificamente en la parte de poda de formación.
Cuando realizamos una poda de formación en vaso a 3 ramas o 4 ramas. La inserción de estas ramas parten de diferentes alturas. Si hemos decidido la altura a la cruz del frutal por ejemplo 90 cm se supone que es a la primera rama no al despunte.
Entonces es cuando pensamos en la longitud de la ramas del primer piso si yo decido darle 1 metro tengo que dejar niveladas todas a una logitud similar pra que el primer piso este más o menos a la misma altura. La longitud del primer piso lse toma desde la rama que están en primer lugar o desde la que está más abajo.
Es decir si yo le doy 1 metro a la inferior tendré que darle 80 o 70 cm al despunte a la que está en primer lugar.
Espero haberme explicado bien. Un saludo y gracias por tu ayuda.
Si se piensa en la longitud total de cada rama y si se pretenden cortar todas a la misma altura máxima seria necesario ir reduciendo la longitud de cada una, como está diciendo. Pero, eso seria suponiendo un crecimiento únicamente vertical (que no es deseable). Así, lo más importante es verificar si el árbol tiene todas las ramas equilibradas, sin ninguna demasiado vigorosa o con demasiada longitud. Yo prefiero ir podando el árbol, cada año, intentando obtener una forma final equilibrada y corrigiendo cada rama, en función de lo que creo necesario.
Hlo sir I am form India Shimla apple orched give me more information
Amit Potan hi bro me maharashtra se he muze apple ke ped chayhi ye milenge kay ?
prashant adhikari yes
Kalm ke chayhiye muze
Aapka no do na
prashant adhikari 8894606766
Does anyone else hear the beginning of The Simpsons theme in the background music?
why it says update me every one minute
i think you must study more for pruning . especially in Italy n America n Korea. these countries are has good skills. maybe i don't know what India's weather or soil conditions n so on. even though i wanna suggest you to study more. good luck
Hi, James. I am not located in India. Don't know why you would think that (in the About tab of my channel, i clearly state i am located in Portugal). Regarding the study of pruning. You are quite right. I am a constant student of all the things related with growing fruits. I have a lot to learn. One of the things i really don't do is take what its know as the 'norm', and apply it blindly. I like to experiment for myself and see the results first hand. And, having several hundred fruit trees, not for commercial production, but for personal use, in my orchard, i can afford to experiment, draw my own conclusions and share them with others. Always alerting that i am in zone 9A and my results may not be exactly duplicated in other zones. As we all know, agricultural practices are local and are difficult to reproduce in different environmental conditions. Thanks for the comment.
Why use plastic at the base of the tree?
Is it possible?
I want to grow apple trees in Bangladesh.
Bangladesh has a tropical monsoon climate characterised by wide seasonal variations in rainfall, high temperatures, and high humidity. ... In general, maximum summer temperatures range between 38 and 41 °C (100.4 and 105.8 °F). April is the hottest month in most parts of the country.
Hi, Azizul.
The plastic at the base of the tree is needed because of the rabbits. While they are young, if the rabbits chew the bark all around the base of the rootstock, they will kill the tree. Apple trees can resist high temperatures for several weeks, if they are well irrigated . The problem might be the lack of cold days (in the winter, in our zone), so they accumulate enough chill hours to produce fruit. Most varieties need a minimum of 400 hours below 7º C to produce fruits. There are some that need less, like Anna and they are your best bet, to try growing apples, if you don't have the chill hours. Beware that another variety is usually needed for cross-pollination - check here, for more information - www.orangepippin.com/varieties/apples/anna
@@JSacadura thanks
Me da risa....le poda el cogollo y las ramas laterales superiores...y luego vuelve a cortar más abajo de nuevo....¿porqué no hace este último corte sin cortar primero las ramas superiores?
El objetivo es mostrar a la gente que podar no tiene que ser un ato único. Se puede hacer por fases. Es mejor podar menos, mirar el árbol y decidir que es necesario cortar un poco más, que cortar demasiado, ya que, en este caso, no se puede volver atrás.
@@JSacadura yo no tengo su experiencia, pero asi ago tanbien!
I always try to duplicate 😊your tree
I apologize, but it seems as if you are just as confused as me. I understand pruning. But, why are you pruning certain branches and why aren't you pruning others? Also, when you prune a tree down, it forces the tree to concentrate or focus it's energy on root development. That new found root development will assist in the production of the fruit. So, shorter trees that have been pruned should be able to harvest sweeter, more ripe fruit that a tree with twice more fruit and the same about of roots. But, my concern is why are you trimming some and not others? How come you don't get rid of main stem coming from the roots and create multiple stems early? I would understand if you eliminated the main root stem in exchange for multiple side branches that you would train to give strength to support fruit production, but none of that is clear. The only thing that I have learned from this video is that I should prune, which is good but more information is needed.
You are entirely correct. I sold have been more clearer as to why the trees are the way they are. If i had a recent apple orchard with very young trees you would see all of them pruned precisely as you say - i would have cut them at knee high and start forming all of them very early. And i did that with the trees i have. The problem is that i planted rows of apples of the same variety (the ones i had access to at the time). In the last few years i was able to get my hands on scions of very good varieties, so i regrafted most of the trees (i have nearly 100 apple trees of more than 70 varieties and counting) . In an ideal situation, as soon as the grafts have reached enough height and if i was confident that they had taken, i could start forming the new tree, cutting at knee high ), or a bit higher because of the graft and creating multiple stems early. But, these are new and precious varieties and i have lots of friends who bug me, to give them a few scions of each new one. So i let them grow for at least a year, unpruned, so i can harvest the scions in the winter. The problem is that some of these varieties are very vigorous and, left unattended, i end up with several trees that have grown too much and are quite a challenge to form. I could cut them short and start all over again, but at the expense of tasting a few fruits of these new awesome varieties. The temptation is too great. Do you see my problem?. So, you are completely right and in an ideal world i would not have these unpruned trees to retrain. Nevertheless, i am using them to show people that they can do it, even if they never pruned their trees since they planted them. But i see how this can be confusing for the viewer. I will try to make it more clearer, in future videos.
I meant "i should have been more clearer" - not sold... :-)
@@JSacadura I have the same problem with auto correct and despite carefully typing auto correct , changes my choice to its choice
Hi friend iam from india hear summer temparature april and may very hot 45 degrees iwant suggetion ur any varity ur prefarable friend iam following ur you tube regularly pls giveme advoice thanq
Hi. Apple trees can resist high temperatures for several weeks, if they are well irrigated . The problem might be the lack of cold days (in the winter), so they accumulate enough chill hours to produce fruit. Most varieties need a minimum of 400 hours below 7º C to produce fruits. There are some that need less, like Anna and they are your best bet if you don't have the chill hours. Beware that another variety is usually needed for cross-pollination - check here, for more information - www.orangepippin.com/varieties/apples/anna
Thanq friend ur from
Pls visit india pls help farmers thanq
Don’t let trees bear fruit that young as shown in the first portion!! Pick them off at about the size of a us quarter. Or really any of the trees shown in the video... too small! Give it at least 3/4 years, let it focus growth in branches and roots not seeds.
Nhiều quả vậy cắt bỏ đi phí quá anh ơi
Young trees should not be allowed to grow fruits, so they can concentrate in growing. I didn't cut too much. In fact i should have cut even more fruits off (but i want to taste this new variety, this year).
everything time you prune something shy dont you just clone that clipping give it away if you don't want it
All the wood from that pruning was given to friends. Its a new variety and its supposed to be very good. So i saved every little piece pruned so people could use it to graft their rootstocks.
@@JSacadura what did it taste like? really good?
@@JSacadura but anyways look up on here air layering it's possible to root the branch before you cut it off makes it quicker
I never air layer apple trees. They best varieties don't grow well on their own roots. Its always better to use a good rootstock, disease resistant, well adapted to the type of soil and, ideally, one that dwarfs the final tree and speeds up production. Most modern rootstocks are very good at almost all those things. So, i prefer to take scions from the good varieties and graft them.
Regarding the variety you are asking about, it hasn't matured yet (probably, late September), so we have to wait to find out how it tastes.
Bonjour et merci pour vos vidéos toujours très instructives. Je
me pose une question concernant mon figuier en région parisienne qui a
30 ans et qui a un seul tronc qui monte à plus de 3 metres pour ensuite
partir sur 3 branches horizontales. Donc il nourrissait bien les
oiseaux, mais je ne pouvais pas cueillir les fruits. L'été dernier il n'a rien donné. Pensez vous que je peux le
couper à 50 cm du sol et que cela l'encouragerait à faire un départ de 2
ou 3 charpentières ? le tronc fait bien 25 cm de diamètre. Merci de vos
lumières et encore bravo pour vos vidéos
Merci, Joel. Je m'excuse pour la réponse tardive. Les figuiers plus âgés ne réagissent généralement pas très bien aux coupes drastiques. Je l'ai déjà fait, avec succès dans la plupart des cas. Cependant, il existe un risque de dessèchement de la zone de coupe après quelques années, même si elle émet initialement de nouvelles branches. Cependant, le système racinaire émettra toujours de nouvelles branches (parfois même trop de nouvelles branches) et, si la variété n'est pas greffée, il en résultera un nouvel arbre qui peut être guidé et taillé plus bas afin que ce ne soient pas seulement les oiseaux qui mangent les figues.
Hello im from philippines i have some seedgrown apple and pear trees what are your fertilizer used?
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