One Year into Knife Making - Chef Knife

[@simondoug]

Great looking knife. Keep up the awesome work.

[@TommyTulpe66]

Super Arbeit!

[@jeffreyryals1861]

One year in and that's where your at? Well done my dude. Keep going! You're doing excellent! 9 out of 10, would recommend. LOL

[@99echo]

Many thanks my dude. Slowly but surely!

[@LollygaggerFX]

I really like the fact that you give insight on what you’re doing AND you’re not embarrassed to say you fucked up something and this is how you fixed it or worked around it. IMHO this is really informative for knife makers or any DIY makers out there. Finally you make absolutely stunning stuff….. absolutely beautiful! I’d love to have this as a chefs knife!! Keep up the great work AND great content!

[@99echo]

I appreciate this comment! Yes lots of mistakes but it's the quickest way to learn, right? Thanks for kind words!

[@LollygaggerFX]

Well and there’s a lot to be said for “happy accidents” fuck ups are just par for the coarse for us humans. Be honest about them and learn from them ….. it doesn’t make you any less of an artist. 🤘

[@mohammadyounus5138]

Absolute Fantastic built

[@99echo]

I appreciate it 🤙

[@tfildaed]

Fantastic results for only a year into it. Your work is amazing.

[@99echo]

Thank you! So much more to learn

[@muledeerdude]

That turned out great. That's a really good looking knife, especially for only making them for a year.
I will say though, that without REALLY good control on your forge, I wouldn't recommend 52100 steel without access to a heat treat oven. You can definitely get it hard enough to function, but without soaking it at temp for at least 15 minutes (30 minutes is recommended) you aren't getting even close to the full potential of that particular alloy. I'd go with simple carbon steels like 1084 if you are heat treating with a forge. Higher alloyed steels really need a heat treat oven to perform near/at their potential. Simple carbon steels don't need much time to soak at temp, so it's much easier to get the full potential of the steel with only a forge. If you don't know how hard your blade is after quench, tempering is really just a guess and the blade can easily get tempered too much.
You can also send the blade out to be heat treated professionally for fairly cheap, so that's an option too, if you want to use high alloy steel.
No judgement at all, though. I did the same thing when i first started. I just know it's frustrating to put so much work into a blade that doesn't perform as well as you hoped, and if I can help prevent that for another bladesmith, that's a good thing.

[@99echo]

Always appreciate when someone takes the time to carefully give constructive criticism. It's very thoughtful when you have to deal with a lot of the polar opposite on social media haha.
And fully heard by the way. I've been kind of cycling through steels to find one that works for me and as you said, the 1080's seem to be the best for forge heat treating. Not shown in my heat treating process is my pyrometer which does help with temps but you're absolutely correct about the "soak".
As you can see, I've kind of focused on the design and aesthetics part of knifemaking first before I go full nerd-mode on steels and metalurgy. It'll be a different story once I get a HT oven. Getting there though!
Thanks again for the kind words and advice!

[@muledeerdude]

@@99echo Any time! I hope it was some help.
I can definitely tell you are focusing on design and aesthetics. Your knives look great; Much better than mine did a year into bladesmithing.

[@user-hl7hn8ye7s]

super!!!

[@nishankreddy4]

Amazing knife. Excellent work.
I would suggest that you use a weight scale when measuring the glue/resin to get the exact ratios.

[@99echo]

Good idea! Can't hurt

[@emeraldplatypus9870]

amazing job as always man!

[@99echo]

Appreciate you 🤙🤙🤙

[@nhanhuuphuc4938]

great, excellent, wonderfull. How do I get that knife?

[@simonboyden7868]

Amazing

[@99echo]

Thanks for watching ☝️

[@vinceianni4026]

Beautiful knife good job well done

[@99echo]

Kind words, thank you

[@salihcak55]

👏👏👏

[@lamproknives]

Excellent job mate !

[@99echo]

Thanks man! Slowly developing my style

[@lamproknives]

@@99echo you're looking to make more kitchen knives ? Specializing in this kind of blades ?

[@99echo]

Not exactly no, I'm actually working on two EDC knives currently. I filmed one of them, will do a short video on the other.

[@lamproknives]

@@99echo nice ! I've upgraded my camera by the way, thanks to your advices !

[@99echo]

Oooh noice, filmed with it yet?

[@beanieweenie9543]

Great looking knife! What was that you used on your sanding disc at 5:23-5:24?

[@99echo]

Thanks! It's an abrasive cleaning stick. Basically a huge rubber eraser.

[@user-re2dk5rc3q]

I really like the previews of your videos.Do you make them using Sony 6000 kit 16-50?
Do you process photos later in some programs? Please respond😇

[@99echo]

Thanks 🙂 Some photos I take with my phone, some I take with the a6000. I edit the photos a bit in Lightroom then add text in illustrator/Photoshop.

[@user-re2dk5rc3q]

@@99echo And on which phone do you take pictures?))

[@99echo]

Galaxy S21

[@dominickmaone]

Nice looking knife. Why did you make the front pin removable?

[@99echo]

Thanks, just for the looks.

[@lilchirp4846]

Could you elaborate on that last deburring step?

[@99echo]

Yeah of course, just a firm wheel with green rouge. Can't remember where I first saw it but it makes a super sharp edge that you can do some fun stuff with. Almost like a power strop since it polishes the edge with the micro abrasive compound. Completely overkill but fun!

[@lilchirp4846]

@@99echo so kinda like a paper wheel with compound?
Looks very sharp!

[@99echo]

That could also work but the one I use is just a firm cotton buffing wheel

[@muhajir4662]

How much....

[@stekiboy]

Одличан!