with an upgrade like this, the difference in outer diameter of the brake rotor is the important part over the calipers. i believe the dodge version are 14.2" and the stock dana 60 are 12.5 sounds like a small distance but its massive
First I moved this question to my facebood page so if you want to see pictures go there. Quick Answer is NO. From looking at both my blazer and my 2010 dodge which are the same brake calibers and 18 inch rims I don’t even see how 17 inch rims would fit, that my dodge came with stock except different style rims..
They could be very similar because there are only so many ways to design a caliber. Maybe ford put bigger brakes than dodge or chevy dana 60’s. I know the original Dana 60 brakes look same as the brakes on a ford I did a long time ago but they are made by spicer so they could of sold them to any of the other manufactures. Only way to know is to measure rotor diameter and caliber piston diameters.
@@offroadguy9020 Thanks for the reply. Just by looks I'd say they're the same. But I only have the ford dual brake calipers in my hands, no dodge ones. Just trying to narrow it down thanks
Thanks for watching. When I put the Dana 60s in I put rear disk on witch are ¾ ton front Chevy brakes, replaced the stock proportion valve with one for rear disk. At that time it would lock up the rear brakes first so I add another they call adjustable proportion valve (but would lower pressure to the rear), after the factory proportion valve to the rear line. I ran that way for a lot of years then replaced the master cylinder with one from a 3500 and noticed no difference in the braking performance. That is all I changed so I still have vacuum brake booster. People have told me the same and I am happy with the way it is now stopping is very good. I am a big guy but I think the vacuum booster is doing a good job to
$200 brackets (Torq Motorsports) $265 two calbers complete (power stop brand) $63 brake pads (power stop brand) $22 new wheel seals (timken) $190 two brake rotors (bendix brand) $70 20 wheel studs (dorman brand) $4 banjo bolts for brake hose to calber (mopor brand) $20 8 calber mounting bolts (mopor brand) $15 other bolts and nuts to cut down for studs $140 machining the hubs down total $990 I do not go with the cheapest parts and they were all new.
Good video man, thanks for the upload. Ive been eye balling this kit, glad to see a good review on it. Is your brake system stock besides the prop valve? do you have hydro boost or vacuum boost brakes? ive read that you need to upgrade your master cylinder to run these brakes. i have a disk conversion on the back and an all disk proportioning valve on my k5. im planning on doing a hydro boost upgrade at some point but i want to do the big front brakes first.
Thanks for watching. When I put the Dana 60s in I put rear disk on witch are ¾ ton front Chevy brakes, replaced the stock proportion valve with one for rear disk. At that time it would lock up the rear brakes first so I add another they call adjustable proportion valve (but would lower pressure to the rear), after the factory proportion valve to the rear line. I ran that way for a lot of years then replaced the master cylinder with one from a 3500 and noticed no difference in the braking performance. That is all I changed so I still have vacuum brake booster. I would try it with your master cylinder if it is in good shape. I think that because Dana 60s are put in everything from Toyotas to one tons is why they say you need to change your master cylinder.
with an upgrade like this, the difference in outer diameter of the brake rotor is the important part over the calipers. i believe the dodge version are 14.2" and the stock dana 60 are 12.5 sounds like a small distance but its massive
Good call on the stud for bolting the caliper up thank you for the video
Your welcome and thanks for watching
I Have a military truck M1028, I wonder if 16.5 Wheels from Humvee would have enough clearance
First I moved this question to my facebood page so if you want to see pictures go there. Quick Answer is NO. From looking at both my blazer and my 2010 dodge which are the same brake calibers and 18 inch rims I don’t even see how 17 inch rims would fit, that my dodge came with stock except different style rims..
Lmfao. The brakes are bad ass. Don't like that nut and stud junk but I love the big brakes
Those look like the same calipers as whats on my highboy. But they're dodge?
They could be very similar because there are only so many ways to design a caliber. Maybe ford put bigger brakes than dodge or chevy dana 60’s. I know the original Dana 60 brakes look same as the brakes on a ford I did a long time ago but they are made by spicer so they could of sold them to any of the other manufactures. Only way to know is to measure rotor diameter and caliber piston diameters.
@@offroadguy9020 Thanks for the reply. Just by looks I'd say they're the same. But I only have the ford dual brake calipers in my hands, no dodge ones. Just trying to narrow it down thanks
couldnt ya have installed the bolt in the hole of the mounting plate before ya put it on ? Or removed the steering arm it aint that hard is it ?
Are you running the stock master cylinder just got a set of tons and people have been tellijg me i need to up grade to the 1 ton boosted system
Thanks for watching. When I put the Dana 60s in I put rear disk on witch are ¾ ton front Chevy brakes, replaced the stock proportion valve with one for rear disk. At that time it would lock up the rear brakes first so I add another they call adjustable proportion valve (but would lower pressure to the rear), after the factory proportion valve to the rear line. I ran that way for a lot of years then replaced the master cylinder with one from a 3500 and noticed no difference in the braking performance. That is all I changed so I still have vacuum brake booster. People have told me the same and I am happy with the way it is now stopping is very good. I am a big guy but I think the vacuum booster is doing a good job to
@offroadguy9020 thank you for the reply
Im doing this next…
Did you have to grind or cut the calipers?
NO. Every thing I did to install was in the video
That's good to hear. You probably know that that the other big brake kit for Dana 60 does require cutting.
Did you have to add any shims to align the calipers?
NO. If the brackets are made correct you should never need shims
We're did ya get that front bumper?
I made it
@@offroadguy9020 very nice
What does this changeover end up costing...?
$200 brackets (Torq Motorsports)
$265 two calbers complete (power stop brand)
$63 brake pads (power stop brand)
$22 new wheel seals (timken)
$190 two brake rotors (bendix brand)
$70 20 wheel studs (dorman brand)
$4 banjo bolts for brake hose to calber (mopor brand)
$20 8 calber mounting bolts (mopor brand)
$15 other bolts and nuts to cut down for studs
$140 machining the hubs down
total $990
I do not go with the cheapest parts and they were all new.
Good video man, thanks for the upload. Ive been eye balling this kit, glad to see a good review on it. Is your brake system stock besides the prop valve? do you have hydro boost or vacuum boost brakes? ive read that you need to upgrade your master cylinder to run these brakes. i have a disk conversion on the back and an all disk proportioning valve on my k5. im planning on doing a hydro boost upgrade at some point but i want to do the big front brakes first.
Thanks for watching. When I put the Dana 60s in I put rear disk on witch are ¾ ton front Chevy brakes, replaced the stock proportion valve with one for rear disk. At that time it would lock up the rear brakes first so I add another they call adjustable proportion valve (but would lower pressure to the rear), after the factory proportion valve to the rear line. I ran that way for a lot of years then replaced the master cylinder with one from a 3500 and noticed no difference in the braking performance. That is all I changed so I still have vacuum brake booster. I would try it with your master cylinder if it is in good shape. I think that because Dana 60s are put in everything from Toyotas to one tons is why they say you need to change your master cylinder.