This is the best comprehensive video on steel roofing I have seen! It very hard to find any guidance at all when I was roofing, I did nit all the details shown in this video but my roofs were guaranteed! Thank you!
Installing metal roofing is such a practical and long-lasting choice for a home! Those 3ft panels from ASC Building Products must give a sleek and modern look, and the durability of metal roofing means less worry about replacements or repairs for years to come. It's great to see people taking on these kinds of home improvement projects. Keep up the fantastic work! 🏡🔨✨
This video is excellent. It doesn't cover every scenario and doesn't cover standing seam roofing, but it is the best tutorial I've ever seen on doing exposed fastener metal roofing.
For me, the ideas in ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
I use 2" screws and screw down on the rib. I go with the theory of build your home on a hill out of the water not in a valley where the water flows. Skip the mastic and use Lexel clear silicone!
The underlayment should be installed OVER the drip edge flashing at the eaves and under the drip edge flashing at the rake.... at least its code in the North to ensure water from ice damming doesn't flow between and rot the fascia board.
In reply to Mak Flan, and to further describe points I made earlier: First, I daresay that if one hires a company to install a metal roof, most likely not a single worker in their crew has ever actually watched and learned all the details and countless steps shown here to properly install metal roofs. Instead, most workers are young and inexperienced, and most of them just "learn on the job" when a co-worker says something like "just snip and bend the ends in", because the more experienced worker does not know how it should be correctly done either. Even if an installer does know the more correct way to do something, almost all installers will take shocking shortcuts just to save time and effort, thinking correctly that "the homeowner will never know the difference". Only, here is the problem: the homeowner WILL find out the difference when future problems and leaks occur. And mark my word, roofing installers will never return to fix improper work. In my true experience they simply stop taking your calls. This video shows an amazing array of many dozens of fine points required to properly install. Typical roofers simply don't care to follow all these confusing instructions, and when they encounter various snags or problems they will usually just "work over it", meaning not correct the problem and just hide it quickly and move on. This usually has the effect of leaving lots of areas that will leak, especially during winds and storms, and may not be noticed early on. In my experience, most instances of flashing will not be handled correctly. I could now write a whole book about all the poor installation procedures and omissions I have realized that roofers did. Here is the point: almost all roofers are NOT particularly educated or consciencious in their workmanship. They simply want to make the big money and move on to the next job. Problems left and created by roofers are often not easily fixed. For example, I currently have some roof leaks and after months and even years of searching, have not been able to find a roofer willing to try to solve the leaks in a shingle roof. One very experienced roofer got on his ladder, climbed up, came down, and was unwilling to attempt the repair regardless of agreed price. Why? Because roof leaks are often not so easy to identify. Besides, "repairs" typically do not pay as well as installing a whole knew roof, and they want to make the "big, easy money". They usually seek to do only ranch house roofs: extremely easy roofs with no complications. I am sure the next time I get a new roof it will cost over $20,000, and I dread that day because I have been through that unpleasant experience before, and it seems that roofers often create more problems than they solve. And, I just know that installing metal roofs has much more room for error and improper methods than shingle roofs do. Either way, it is about impossible to luck up finding a qualified and diligent roofing team.
I was a professional roofer for over 25 years installing everything from large commercial systems to highly customized niche residential applications and everything in between. One of our many specialties was installing metal roofing and we not only had the knowledge, expertise, and skilled manpower to do the job from start to finish, but all of the necessary tools and equipment to fabricate from coil and flat stock every piece involved in the process. I had the pleasure to work with some of the best in the business and if one of our installs failed it would only have been the result of an F5 tornado or an airstrike. I can also tell you that if I was going to spend the money on a metal roof, I would much rather prefer to have a standing seam roof installed over this system due to the lack of exposed fasteners involved, which will all be future failure points on this roof. The rubber gaskets on these screws have a u.v. resistant coating embedded into them but even with proper torque when installed, they will only last so long. In 15 years or so, you would have to either replace every screw or clean, prep and spray the entire roof with an elastomeric coating to prevent the eventual leaks that would inevitably arise. You have to due your due diligence and like anything you get what you pay for, and quality isn't cheap. I personally cannot stand most salesmen as they know next to nothing about the product they are selling while promising you the moon in the pursuit of a fat commission. I would personally want to meet and speak directly with the owner of the company, see examples of his work, scope out his place of business, and see what type of ship he runs firsthand before I ever committed myself to a legally binding contract. Best of luck to you.
@@Sum-Ting-Wong71you seem to be telling us something important but it was quite long winding and I was lost. Can you please go directly to what is it you’re trying to say. Which is better and why 🙏
Are the stitch screw in the high spots of the panels ,actually suppose to screw into the wood or do they just catch the metal roofing panels and poly closure?
I’ve heard that that is fine. I can’t imagine. It makes much a difference, the only issue would be if you already had a roof sheathing issue that never got addressed and is now harder to repair
Yeah, it's fine to do that. Like Raven☝🏻said...As long as the sheathing underneath is structurally sound. It also depends on how many layers of shingles you're laying on top of though. The only time it's ever been a problem for me, is on really old homes. I've seen when there's been literally 5-6 layers of shingles ON TOP of the original wood shakes that were used in 1918 when the home was built!😳 It was 2" worth of shingles/shakes on top of the 3/4 x 6" plank they used back then, before plywood sheets were a thing.
What happens if the roofing metal ridges are right next to the Chimney stack - how do you deal with the flashing in that scenario when you can lay it on a flat surface?
On the drip edge you are supposed to notch the drip on the first piece that is installed, caulk that one then the next open the hem put it in position then roll it into place making it easier and you wont plow the caulking.
I would apply something those closures are supposed to stop wind and rain but the weak points where they join together are always separated when just the small strip of glue is used, then debris gets in there eventually opening it up for more junk and water
If possible I HIGHLY recommend installing these on top of 3/4” wood strips to maximize air ventilation under the metal. 👍👍 if there was a practical way to install solar panels on this roof vs standing seam I would use more of it but standing seam is much better for solar panel clamps.
How far apart would you put the woods strips? Wouldn’t you be worried about it caving in in the air gaps from snow or if you have to walk up on your roof?
@@w6p7a you’re supposed to do it every 24” I’ve seen some videos of people doing it 40” apart but that’s where the problem with snow weight and other factors would come in and cave in the metal. I wouldn’t recommend do in it more than 30” apart
I do not understand why you are placing screws into the valley of the roofing profile. Over time the washers on the screws will deteriorate and allow water to leak into the roof??? My home has sustained major damage due to builders placing screws into the valley of the roof profile. I will note the original builders of our home did not place any screws into the roof profile valley. Only when we had a pergola attached to the house and for what ever reason the builders decided to place screws into the valley of the metal sheet roof profile and these leaked and have rotted out part of the fascia board.
For some reason, the manufacturers recommend screws in the valley. I did my barn with screws at the peaks 11 years ago. Works great and no leaks. Just tighten the screws till snug.
I understand your thinking but remember - All roofs require maintenance - some more than others. Using 2 coats of synesthetic underlayment - outlasts felt and gives you even more protection. You should see how often satellite dishes get roof mounted. Crazy stupid
Manufacturers do recommend field screws. There are 2 items to keep in mind: most leaking issues are caused by under tightening or over tightening of the screws, and, it is recommended that screws are replaced, approximately 7 years, for this exact reason, even in the best of circumstances those washers will break down in the elements.
@@thundermountainmetal1692 Yes the UV exposure breaks down the rubber washers and I 've read that a lot of other problems of leaking are due to people over-tightening the screws during installation.
I can not find a video that shows in detail how to properly close a metal valley when a lower ridge runs into the slope of a higher perpendicular ridge roof section. The mystery is how to seal the very top where the valleys intersect.
I just purchased a 4 year old home with a metal roof & on the rear section of the roof, the first row of screws horizontally begin 29 inches from the gutter. Should I be concerned?
I once bought a package from a lumber store that was special ordered. A deposit was paid but, it was not picked up. I just paid the difference. There was some pieces that I could not use but it was still worth buying at the reduced price.
I just did it. It's not fun if you have any valleys that you have to cut angles on the sheets. You need a really good metal cutting blade. ( About $35 on Amazon) Otherwise it's the same install except the corners where the Hip meets the ridge of the roof.
We tore down a 70 yr old commercial chicken house having a metal "5 V groove" metal roof. It had the old metal roof nails...all placed at the top of the V grooves...not in the valleys. The wooden structure was in remarkably good condition with no rotting. Placing fasteners in valleys is a no-no. I am wondering if an air gap underneath of approximately 3/4" would help cooling of the roof?
1inch screws are never long enough should be 2or2@1/2 inches I have a friend with a pole garage over time freeze and thaw and wind worked the ends of the panels loose and caused leaks we replaced the screws with longer ones to fix the problem just a thought
. . . at time stamped 00.01.32 . . . is it really correct to fasten down the sheet between the ribs . . . I dare to say to fasten the sheet on the ribs to strongly avoid leaks even though you seal each screw fastener . . . what do you say?
@@terrymcguire8476 back when the washer wasn't neoprene this was a 100% right. Lots of manufacturers say on the flat (some say both) I personally do it on thr top
Most definitely. I'm replying from Australia where we never screw through the tray or flat part of the sheet. It does not allow for expansion and contraction in the sheet and eventually the rubber washers give way and yes leak. Always screw through the rib. In all reality everything I see on so called metal roofing in the States is garbage. I confess there appears a lot to be desired in building practices in the US. Regards Stewart. 04-07-23
@@toast2437 That's because you haven't a clue about roofing or enough common sense to understand the correct procedures. It's not just my theory it's the theory of all major roofing manufacturers in Australia.
@@toast2437 Yeah Hi and thanks for your email. I can only suggest the theory of fixing through the ribs/crest of the sheet is to allow for expansion and contraction. Fixing through the pan does allow minimal expansion and contraction but this action wears the rubber washers away and creates leaks. Lysaghts possibly being the largest roofing manufacturer in the world have what they call "The Lysaghts Referee" which is a bible to all roofing products, fixtures etc. It's a small hand held type of dictionary and generally free from Lysaghts. Regards Stewart. 16-04-24
I hate to tell y'all, after two years that ropeseal (butyl tape) under the rake (gable) trim will NOT divert water. Stitch your trim to the highs as that will let the water run along the bottom of the high to the gutter with no way to get under the sheet.
@@idk8964 putting the screws, that hold your rake trim on, in the highs of the sheet and not the low areas where the water runs. Many people seem to think they can run caulk or use panalastic rope seal under the trim- 4-5 yrs it'll need replacing. Put your screws in the high and you'll never have to worry about leaks. Been doing this since 1998, I've seen it all (most of it anyways) Hope this helps
@@trippyvortex I'm not sure. All of my knowledge came from on the job "training", I was a line cook for 6 years before. I started with a company that had been around since the late '70s. Now im able to dig dirt, lay rebar, finish concrete, fabricate/ erect/ sheet/ trim the building. Even the plans from companies like Shulte, Whirlwind, Red Dot, Mid Western show to put the screw in the flat. I've have done MANY repairs because of this. Lay a new sheet down and measure from the high 12" to the take trim and that's where the screw goes. Do y'all put gutter straps in the lows of the sheet?
This made my head hurt. Not gonna lie. But this is my preferred roof of choice and I will be installing one soon. I'll just take my time and do it right.
This diagram has you cut some metal off to fit inside the first piece of flashing,but then it says to put caulking on it, then slide it under the first piece! This is physically impossible to have the second peice slide under the first yet have the trimmed off peice fit inside the outside crimped edge! It would have to go on top of the first peice and caulking would be applied to the first peice of eves flashing! I was sold a system that costs me more,and another company just uses drip edge for the edging,same as for a shingles roof. The point is,if you watch different videos on how to install a steel roof,if your paying attention you should notice there's 2 ways to do it! A 3rd is just not bother with eves flashing and the hardware you don't need,as your evestrough covers most of the wood under the roof as well as metal or vinyl soffit put under the overhang !
Exceptional video, please clarify why you recommend screwing in the steel roof “valley” vice the “arch”. I have been told always the “arch” as screwing in the “valley” will cause leaks. I am in the Eastern Ontario, Canada area and we obviously get a fair chunk of snow. Looking forward to your answer. Thank you!
Has me stuffed why they say to screw the sheets down in the valley and not the peak, the rubber washer under the screw heads dont last for ever and always some get damaged while the screw is being screwed down.
Your video is absolutely fantastic ! Because of the fires in the California I don't want vents under the eve. Do you have a video showing a "Fire Proof" Roofing System for a HIP roof ? I will have a "Vulcan Vent" on the roof and a "Vulcan Vent" at ground to have "cross ventilation" in the attic. It's so sad to see all those people everywhere that lost their homes ! Have a great day ...
Because of the fires in the California I don't want vents under the eve. Do you have a video showing a "Fire Proof" Roofing System for a HIP roof ? I will have a "Vulcan Vent" on the roof and a "Vulcan Vent" at ground to have "cross ventilation" in the attic. It's so sad to see all those people everywhere that lost their homes !
Nothing is better than a roof riddled with screws and completely dependent on rubber washers, foan closures, and caulk tape. "Gee, why does my roof leak?!?"
I don't know about the manufactures recommended approach. However, several times I have replaced the screws on these roofs. It is cheaper to buy the washers and grommets separately from the screws. Just buy screws that are a minimum 1/2" longer to ensure they get a new "bite" on the substrate. Personally, I checked every single screw and replaced as needed. Some customers wanted them all replaced regardless. Hope this helps!
Did you read the manufacturers warranty on the metal roof. It's nice to know though what the bag of screws said. The question was asked, just so consumers would do their research.
This only stops rains, not hurricanes, I have been doing forensic architecture for the DoD, and I see them fail every time a hurricane passes through a base. After that, any heavy rain fall the interior of the building will be cover in pools of water or leak will came from the failure of the neoprene seals.
This is the best comprehensive video on steel roofing I have seen! It very hard to find any guidance at all when I was roofing, I did nit all the details shown in this video but my roofs were guaranteed! Thank you!
Installing metal roofing is such a practical and long-lasting choice for a home! Those 3ft panels from ASC Building Products must give a sleek and modern look, and the durability of metal roofing means less worry about replacements or repairs for years to come. It's great to see people taking on these kinds of home improvement projects. Keep up the fantastic work! 🏡🔨✨
Thanks for this detailed excellent video. It was very clear and concise with no fluff or wasted time. THUMBS UP for sure!
This video is excellent. It doesn't cover every scenario and doesn't cover standing seam roofing, but it is the best tutorial I've ever seen on doing exposed fastener metal roofing.
There is a video for standing seam. It is great just like this one.
For me, the ideas in ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
This is the best installation video that i was looking for Thank You very much
VERY HELPFUL! Very professionally done. This showed me the remaining add-on that I didn't know what to do about. Thanks!
I use 2" screws and screw down on the rib. I go with the theory of build your home on a hill out of the water not in a valley where the water flows. Skip the mastic and use Lexel clear silicone!
Lexel isn't silicone. They abandoned screwing on the rib in my area many many years ago. I believe there is too much deflection there.
Благодарю! Отличная видеоинструкция по монтажу металлопрофиля, инструкция как должно быть! 🙂👍👍👍🤝
@user-si6ku32s no if you are serious in seeing the best way to fix metal roof sheeting then checkout how the Australians do it.
You have some really awesome products in your part of the world
The underlayment should be installed OVER the drip edge flashing at the eaves and under the drip edge flashing at the rake.... at least its code in the North to ensure water from ice damming doesn't flow between and rot the fascia board.
Seems like the underlayment at the valley should be laid down first also for ultimate drainage purposes.
@@gary7708 10-4 😎
Very important information... this is roof construction... beautiful result... this video is noted in my work project... thanks for sharing. Monkordel
In reply to Mak Flan, and to further describe points I made earlier:
First, I daresay that if one hires a company to install a metal roof, most likely not a single worker in their crew has ever actually watched and learned all the details and countless steps shown here to properly install metal roofs. Instead, most workers are young and inexperienced, and most of them just "learn on the job" when a co-worker says something like "just snip and bend the ends in", because the more experienced worker does not know how it should be correctly done either. Even if an installer does know the more correct way to do something, almost all installers will take shocking shortcuts just to save time and effort, thinking correctly that "the homeowner will never know the difference".
Only, here is the problem: the homeowner WILL find out the difference when future problems and leaks occur. And mark my word, roofing installers will never return to fix improper work. In my true experience they simply stop taking your calls.
This video shows an amazing array of many dozens of fine points required to properly install. Typical roofers simply don't care to follow all these confusing instructions, and when they encounter various snags or problems they will usually just "work over it", meaning not correct the problem and just hide it quickly and move on. This usually has the effect of leaving lots of areas that will leak, especially during winds and storms, and may not be noticed early on.
In my experience, most instances of flashing will not be handled correctly. I could now write a whole book about all the poor installation procedures and omissions I have realized that roofers did. Here is the point: almost all roofers are NOT particularly educated or consciencious in their workmanship. They simply want to make the big money and move on to the next job. Problems left and created by roofers are often not easily fixed.
For example, I currently have some roof leaks and after months and even years of searching, have not been able to find a roofer willing to try to solve the leaks in a shingle roof. One very experienced roofer got on his ladder, climbed up, came down, and was unwilling to attempt the repair regardless of agreed price. Why? Because roof leaks are often not so easy to identify. Besides, "repairs" typically do not pay as well as installing a whole knew roof, and they want to make the "big, easy money". They usually seek to do only ranch house roofs: extremely easy roofs with no complications. I am sure the next time I get a new roof it will cost over $20,000, and I dread that day because I have been through that unpleasant experience before, and it seems that roofers often create more problems than they solve. And, I just know that installing metal roofs has much more room for error and improper methods than shingle roofs do. Either way, it is about impossible to luck up finding a qualified and diligent roofing team.
I was a professional roofer for over 25 years installing everything from large commercial systems to highly customized niche residential applications and everything in between. One of our many specialties was installing metal roofing and we not only had the knowledge, expertise, and skilled manpower to do the job from start to finish, but all of the necessary tools and equipment to fabricate from coil and flat stock every piece involved in the process. I had the pleasure to work with some of the best in the business and if one of our installs failed it would only have been the result of an F5 tornado or an airstrike.
I can also tell you that if I was going to spend the money on a metal roof, I would much rather prefer to have a standing seam roof installed over this system due to the lack of exposed fasteners involved, which will all be future failure points on this roof. The rubber gaskets on these screws have a u.v. resistant coating embedded into them but even with proper torque when installed, they will only last so long. In 15 years or so, you would have to either replace every screw or clean, prep and spray the entire roof with an elastomeric coating to prevent the eventual leaks that would inevitably arise.
You have to due your due diligence and like anything you get what you pay for, and quality isn't cheap.
I personally cannot stand most salesmen as they know next to nothing about the product they are selling while promising you the moon in the pursuit of a fat commission. I would personally want to meet and speak directly with the owner of the company, see examples of his work, scope out his place of business, and see what type of ship he runs firsthand before I ever committed myself to a legally binding contract.
Best of luck to you.
@@Sum-Ting-Wong71 Thank you for taking the time to write your thorough and helpful reply.
@@Sum-Ting-Wong71you seem to be telling us something important but it was quite long winding and I was lost. Can you please go directly to what is it you’re trying to say. Which is better and why 🙏
@@mengiequirante2460
You seem to be trying to grasp something outside of your ability to comprehend.
@@Sum-Ting-Wong71 that’s neat 🤣
Are the stitch screw in the high spots of the panels ,actually suppose to screw into the wood or do they just catch the metal roofing panels and poly closure?
They catch the wood. Lengths of washer screws are normally 2.5 inches
Stitch screw are short and meant for metal to metal attachment
Can you install this roof over your existing shingles roof? That’s what my contractors did, and I’m not sure if he was being lazy, or what.
I’ve heard that that is fine. I can’t imagine. It makes much a difference, the only issue would be if you already had a roof sheathing issue that never got addressed and is now harder to repair
Yeah, it's fine to do that. Like Raven☝🏻said...As long as the sheathing underneath is structurally sound. It also depends on how many layers of shingles you're laying on top of though. The only time it's ever been a problem for me, is on really old homes. I've seen when there's been literally 5-6 layers of shingles ON TOP of the original wood shakes that were used in 1918 when the home was built!😳
It was 2" worth of shingles/shakes on top of the 3/4 x 6" plank they used back then, before plywood sheets were a thing.
Great video! Most helpful for DIYers!
What happens if the roofing metal ridges are right next to the Chimney stack - how do you deal with the flashing in that scenario when you can lay it on a flat surface?
Verry good👍, thank's for vidios, verry important for me,
On the drip edge you are supposed to notch the drip on the first piece that is installed, caulk that one then the next open the hem put it in position then roll it into place making it easier and you wont plow the caulking.
Excellent very thermal cover and easy to install especially in tropical climates.
Do you have to use bead seal if the closures are sticky? I thought bead seal was mostly used for low pitches.
I would apply something those closures are supposed to stop wind and rain but the weak points where they join together are always separated when just the small strip of glue is used, then debris gets in there eventually opening it up for more junk and water
If possible I HIGHLY recommend installing these on top of 3/4” wood strips to maximize air ventilation under the metal. 👍👍 if there was a practical way to install solar panels on this roof vs standing seam I would use more of it but standing seam is much better for solar panel clamps.
How far apart would you put the woods strips? Wouldn’t you be worried about it caving in in the air gaps from snow or if you have to walk up on your roof?
@@w6p7a you’re supposed to do it every 24” I’ve seen some videos of people doing it 40” apart but that’s where the problem with snow weight and other factors would come in and cave in the metal. I wouldn’t recommend do in it more than 30” apart
There would be no air ventilation if the steel is sealed off!
With proper self stick water barrier laid first, screw will be sealed by under layment. In case of washer failure wood should still be protected
I agree leaks happen placing screws in valleys.
is gable flashing necessary for water prevention or is it just for aesthetics? I would like to have no gable flashing
You could do drip edge along the gable. But you must trim the pan so that a ridge is not at the edge of the roof.
it would be proper to place and install screw out of the groove because the water will finds a hole to leak in when a heavy downpour occurs
I do not understand why you are placing screws into the valley of the roofing profile. Over time the washers on the screws will deteriorate and allow water to leak into the roof??? My home has sustained major damage due to builders placing screws into the valley of the roof profile. I will note the original builders of our home did not place any screws into the roof profile valley. Only when we had a pergola attached to the house and for what ever reason the builders decided to place screws into the valley of the metal sheet roof profile and these leaked and have rotted out part of the fascia board.
You're absolutely correct sir. He hopes all his viewers are stupid and beauty parlors staff.
For some reason, the manufacturers recommend screws in the valley. I did my barn with screws at the peaks 11 years ago. Works great and no leaks. Just tighten the screws till snug.
I understand your thinking but remember - All roofs require maintenance - some more than others. Using 2 coats of synesthetic underlayment - outlasts felt and gives you even more protection. You should see how often satellite dishes get roof mounted. Crazy stupid
Manufacturers do recommend field screws. There are 2 items to keep in mind: most leaking issues are caused by under tightening or over tightening of the screws, and, it is recommended that screws are replaced, approximately 7 years, for this exact reason, even in the best of circumstances those washers will break down in the elements.
@@thundermountainmetal1692 Yes the UV exposure breaks down the rubber washers and I 've read that a lot of other problems of leaking are due to people over-tightening the screws during installation.
I can not find a video that shows in detail how to properly close a metal valley when a lower ridge runs into the slope of a higher perpendicular ridge roof section. The mystery is how to seal the very top where the valleys intersect.
this is an awesome video. Thank you for doing this.
Good video jimmy👌🏻
I just purchased a 4 year old home with a metal roof & on the rear section of the roof, the first row of screws horizontally begin 29 inches from the gutter. Should I be concerned?
They aure use a lot of butyl mastic tape. I don't see much of that used here in my part of New York State.
I have yet to see it used in north Idaho, lots of metal roof up here
I wish I could afford a nice roof like this for my 12'x16' shed. It'd last forever and look so nice.
I once bought a package from a lumber store that was special ordered. A deposit was paid but, it was not picked up. I just paid the difference. There was some pieces that I could not use but it was still worth buying at the reduced price.
sehr interessant ☕🔔✓
Only if you replace exposed screws every 5 years...
Have you got your roof yet? I’m very affordable
The uphill flashing install was very unclear. How does the panel magically go from a 120° bend to perfectly flat? 🤔🤔🤔
this Video has excellent. However, do you know of a good reference for installing this roofing on a hip roof?
I just did it. It's not fun if you have any valleys that you have to cut angles on the sheets. You need a really good metal cutting blade. ( About $35 on Amazon) Otherwise it's the same install except the corners where the Hip meets the ridge of the roof.
this Video has excellent. However, do you know of a good reference for installing this roofing on hip roof?
I like ASC roofing, but I've only done a couple with these type panels. I prefer their Design Span standing seam, but, it is more expensive.
We tore down a 70 yr old commercial chicken house having a metal "5 V groove" metal roof. It had the old metal roof nails...all placed at the top of the V grooves...not in the valleys. The wooden structure was in remarkably good condition with no rotting. Placing fasteners in valleys is a no-no.
I am wondering if an air gap underneath of approximately 3/4" would help cooling of the roof?
I agree with you, Im tired of seeing people fastening sheets as per this video, its just dumb.
@@jamesmatheson5115no it isnt
@@toast2437 Got no idea what your comment refers too.
@@jamesmatheson5115 sure you do.
Like I said earlier its dumb to fasten sheets in the valley, they will eventually leak, only in America does dumb sh!t like this happen.
1inch screws are never long enough should be 2or2@1/2 inches I have a friend with a pole garage over time freeze and thaw and wind worked the ends of the panels loose and caused leaks we replaced the screws with longer ones to fix the problem just a thought
. . . at time stamped 00.01.32 . . . is it really correct to fasten down the sheet between the ribs . . . I dare to say to fasten the sheet on the ribs to strongly avoid leaks even though you seal each screw fastener . . . what do you say?
Everyone attaches in the valleys in the US. I have heard that in Canada you screw in the high spots. The roofs flex in the heat.
Great video!, you have one for standing seam by any chance?
I watched it 👀 like 30 times 👍
Very well done, so i subscribed.
It will leak like a sift with screws in the water valleys. Screws should be on the ribs.
Not so
@@gabeakiki3878 😳😆🤣
@@terrymcguire8476 back when the washer wasn't neoprene this was a 100% right. Lots of manufacturers say on the flat (some say both) I personally do it on thr top
this isn't 1972 grandpa
Watched the whole video. Thank you
Plumbing vents are the major left out part
can the back piece not be used so that this could be bumped against a door to make an entryway?
Nice video
What is the program you use to make this videos ?
Me too I am searching for the program the use. Did you find it?
@@me-bs3mw no bro sorry
Use the 6' x 8' x 10' squaring method .
If you are screwing right through, over time couldn't it leak at those screw holes.
Most definitely. I'm replying from Australia where we never screw through the tray or flat part of the sheet. It does not allow for expansion and contraction in the sheet and eventually the rubber washers give way and yes leak. Always screw through the rib. In all reality everything I see on so called metal roofing in the States is garbage. I confess there appears a lot to be desired in building practices in the US. Regards Stewart. 04-07-23
@@stewartsherriff2095your method is just BS cause it does not not Make sense at all
@@toast2437 That's because you haven't a clue about roofing or enough common sense to understand the correct procedures. It's not just my theory it's the theory of all major roofing manufacturers in Australia.
@@stewartsherriff2095 i do know roofing, and fair enough for your rules, but the reason why is lacking to me.
@@toast2437 Yeah Hi and thanks for your email. I can only suggest the theory of fixing through the ribs/crest of the sheet is to allow for expansion and contraction. Fixing through the pan does allow minimal expansion and contraction but this action wears the rubber washers away and creates leaks. Lysaghts possibly being the largest roofing manufacturer in the world have what they call "The Lysaghts Referee" which is a bible to all roofing products, fixtures etc. It's a small hand held type of dictionary and generally free from Lysaghts. Regards Stewart. 16-04-24
I hate to tell y'all, after two years that ropeseal (butyl tape) under the rake (gable) trim will NOT divert water. Stitch your trim to the highs as that will let the water run along the bottom of the high to the gutter with no way to get under the sheet.
What does "stitch your trim to the highs" mean?
@@idk8964 putting the screws, that hold your rake trim on, in the highs of the sheet and not the low areas where the water runs. Many people seem to think they can run caulk or use panalastic rope seal under the trim- 4-5 yrs it'll need replacing. Put your screws in the high and you'll never have to worry about leaks.
Been doing this since 1998, I've seen it all (most of it anyways)
Hope this helps
@@mikemissildine370 is there a resource /video you recommended that is quality education?
@@trippyvortex I'm not sure. All of my knowledge came from on the job "training", I was a line cook for 6 years before. I started with a company that had been around since the late '70s. Now im able to dig dirt, lay rebar, finish concrete, fabricate/ erect/ sheet/ trim the building. Even the plans from companies like Shulte, Whirlwind, Red Dot, Mid Western show to put the screw in the flat. I've have done MANY repairs because of this. Lay a new sheet down and measure from the high 12" to the take trim and that's where the screw goes.
Do y'all put gutter straps in the lows of the sheet?
@@mikemissildine370 I thought the tape was to prevent damming not normal water ingress.
THANK YOU VERY GOOD INFORMATION GOD BLESS
No purlins?
Wy to put the screws in the flat area.?.
This made my head hurt. Not gonna lie. But this is my preferred roof of choice and I will be installing one soon. I'll just take my time and do it right.
Not me, I don't like all the exposed screws....
Hello,
Could you be so kind and tell me the name of the animation software that was used for this excellent video?
Thanks in advance.
ME: Yawn. Time for bed. We have school tomorrow.
BRAIN: lol no. we're going watch a video about a green roof
ME: ok
Very good instructional video.
Thanks for posting.
This diagram has you cut some metal off to fit inside the first piece of flashing,but then it says to put caulking on it, then slide it under the first piece! This is physically impossible to have the second peice slide under the first yet have the trimmed off peice fit inside the outside crimped edge!
It would have to go on top of the first peice and caulking would be applied to the first peice of eves flashing!
I was sold a system that costs me more,and another company just uses drip edge for the edging,same as for a shingles roof.
The point is,if you watch different videos on how to install a steel roof,if your paying attention you should notice there's 2 ways to do it!
A 3rd is just not bother with eves flashing and the hardware you don't need,as your evestrough covers most of the wood under the roof as well as metal or vinyl soffit put under the overhang !
Exceptional video, please clarify why you recommend screwing in the steel roof “valley” vice the “arch”. I have been told always the “arch” as screwing in the “valley” will cause leaks. I am in the Eastern Ontario, Canada area and we obviously get a fair chunk of snow. Looking forward to your answer. Thank you!
Use the correct screws and they won't leak
I’ve heard that after 7 years you need to tighten down the rubber gasked screws because the gaskets shrink
this video is gold.
Great video....
That vent does not look like it lets much air out.
Maybe folks on the west coast don't want vents.
But here on the Gulf coast I do.
where can i buy this roof? Thanks
Has me stuffed why they say to screw the sheets down in the valley and not the peak, the rubber washer under the screw heads dont last for ever and always some get damaged while the screw is being screwed down.
Thank you very much. Answered all my questions, to the point and no ego. 👍😎
Your video is absolutely fantastic !
Because of the fires in the California I don't want vents under the eve.
Do you have a video showing a "Fire Proof" Roofing System for a HIP roof ?
I will have a "Vulcan Vent" on the roof and a "Vulcan Vent" at ground to have "cross ventilation" in the attic.
It's so sad to see all those people everywhere that lost their homes !
Have a great day ...
Well detailed thanks
Nice work 👌👍👍💪
ON THE ROOF PUT THE SCREWS ON THE IBR RIBS. ILL DIE ONE DAY I WONT BE HERE TO TEACH YOU
What kind off tape?
Butyl tape
Because of the fires in the California I don't want vents under the eve.
Do you have a video showing a "Fire Proof" Roofing System for a HIP roof ?
I will have a "Vulcan Vent" on the roof and a "Vulcan Vent" at ground to have "cross ventilation" in the attic.
It's so sad to see all those people everywhere that lost their homes !
Если так делать, то крыша будет золотая.
Just beautiful.
Thank you 😊
Thanks 4 sharing 👍
Flor products....which company... We have to contact???
Nothing is better than a roof riddled with screws and completely dependent on rubber washers, foan closures, and caulk tape.
"Gee, why does my roof leak?!?"
That's why we do Standing seam, mechanically seamed
How to install metal roofing on a octagon building
How about no fastener
Nice👍👍
very durable roofing almost without maintenance, but seems too slippery and much difficult for gutter cleaning if going to roof
HOLA, LOS TECHOS SE CONSTRUYEN, DE ACUERDO AL TERRITORIO ( PAIS, ZONA) DÓNDE VIVAS,,, 🏠🏘️🏣🏢🏫🏰👍👈
thanks for sharing
When the foam under the roof cap blows out? #@!%
You got a wrong side of screwing loosening the sleeve jjoin.
Do manufacturers say anything about requiring changing screws every five years.
I don't know about the manufactures recommended approach. However, several times I have replaced the screws on these roofs. It is cheaper to buy the washers and grommets separately from the screws. Just buy screws that are a minimum 1/2" longer to ensure they get a new "bite" on the substrate. Personally, I checked every single screw and replaced as needed. Some customers wanted them all replaced regardless. Hope this helps!
Did you read the manufacturers warranty on the metal roof. It's nice to know though what the bag of screws said. The question was asked, just so consumers would do their research.
This only stops rains, not hurricanes, I have been doing forensic architecture for the DoD, and I see them fail every time a hurricane passes through a base. After that, any heavy rain fall the interior of the building will be cover in pools of water or leak will came from the failure of the neoprene seals.
good job
So painful to see no mechanical turn ups to the sheet.
Thank you
Excelent method
Thanx for the info
顺序,条理清晰✨🌟🔰📜
tnx.
Don't screw in the run of the sheet and instead of that foam that'll get eaten up by bats, just bend the top of the sheet backwards.
好清楚...讚
Correct way
In some point going to leak for sure.
You forgot counterflashing on your sodewall bud