Great video, thanks. I've replaced window regulators on other cars. I've never seen one that was as hard to get to as this Hyundai Sonata - absolutely ridiculous.
Thank you so much for taking the time! Video was excellent and made my job much easier.Replaced passenger side on 2008 sonata limited, again great job much appreciated!
Several people have had the same problem that I did. If the window regulator has failed and you aren't able to move the window to the right position to loosen the bolts that are clamping the glass. Get a drill and make a new access hole wherever they are stuck at. You will not ruin anything that doesn't get thrown away after you're done.
If you could make a video of this I’d very appreciate it because my glass won’t go down when I try to push it down as you say to get access to those two bolts
@@stevhandingwall2028 I'm sorry but I sold that car and I've never made a video myself. That entire regulator panel gets replaced so anything that you do to it to get access to those bolts is acceptable in my book. Good luck. 👍
I can confirm that this step by step will also work for the 2014 Sonata. The door panel has only two screws holding it down, one in the door handle and the other is inside the door lever. I followed the video on how to replace a broken door actuator
When i saw the whole panel was one piece i thought it was a great idea. Then i tried to replace it and could not believe how difficult the made this. The cherry on top is they used rivots. 9 out of 10 people don’t have a drill AND rivot gun
What does usually break? I am wondering if this can fixed rather than replacing the whole thing. Mine makes sounds and the motor works but window does not work. I clearly heard something plastic breaking before it stopped working
My 2010 goes up and down, but once its all the way down I cant get it to come back up. I have to pull the window towards the back of the car to get it to move then about 1/2 way up it goes well. Do I need a regulator or a motor?
So I put my driver side window down the other day and now it doesn’t go back up, it makes the motor sound when I try but nothing, and of course it’s rained like every day since it’s happened. Is that a regulator problem?
One note I’d add is that once everything is disconnected from the regulator, be aware that if the clamps are in the way, disconnect the locking mechanism from the regulator before you’re able to take the regulator out
Not 100% on which parts I don't need to remove if I'm just trying to get the door handle bolt out. Do I still need to loosen the window bolts? I'm also doing this on an Azera and it seems like they've put some kind of insulation/glue around the edges of the metal piece that lets me get to where the bolt fell.
Could you have left the door lock actuator/assembly in place and just slide the door open/lock cables through the holes? Would save a couple steps if so?
Unfortunately no, there is not enough wiggle room to slide the window regulator off the door lock actuator. Even if you were able to slide the regulator off without removing the actuator, you'd have a hard time sliding the three white plastic "forks" into the slots of the lock actuator inside the door due not being able to see where the slots are and not having room with the large window regulator.
Hello MTTech. My cable snapped on the regulator. I Can not manually nor with the motor move the window up. Is there a good way to do this with the broken cable?
Any idea why the window goes down when I press up and vise versa? The motor was unplug when I got the car and the regulator needed replacing. The motor plug is keyed, so it doesn't make sense...I thought of re-keying (Dremel) the plug and flipping it around
Hi! I have a question... The window regulator broke with the window open, so as it is right now, I can't get to the screw to loosen the window. Any suggestions on how I might be able to get the window up? Should I just get some pliars (and cloth to protect the window) and pull it up?
Does the motor work at all? You could lift the glass with one hand while the other lifts up on the window switch. Option two is to just unscrew the window motor (three torx screws) and take off the motor. Then lift the glass and push it up by hand. And put the motor back on.
@@MTTech Thank you for the fast response!! Unfortunately, it's not the motor that's broken. It's the cable inside the window regulator. The motor tries to work, but the window can't go up because the window cable is no longer attached. I think removing the motor might solve the issue though...? Then I would be able to physically pull the window up with my hand, right?
Correct. I don't remember if there's multiple cables. But probably. If you can't pull the window up with the motor attached, then you will need to remove the motor first.
So in order to replace the regulator you don’t have to rewire anything? I just got charged 130 to get mines replaced… kinda felt like I was getting hustled
I was trying to remove the window regulator to change, but I am unable to pull the window glass up. Looks like it is stuck with glass. I have 2009 Sonata gls. Any tips to pull the window glass up?
Can the widow be pulled up temporarily if it fell all the way down. This mechanic told me it can’t because it’s attached to the regulator. 😑😏 I wanted to pull it up and tape it until I can get it fixed. Also, how long did it take you to fix it? The mechanic said it’ll take 2hrs then stated maybe 3-4hrs. 🤦🏻♀️
I assume your window motor doesn't work? If it doesn't, remove the inner door panel, disconnect the cables, disconnect the cable for the window motor, remove the screws for the window motor, remove the window motor, and wind up the white gear behind it with your hand. This should move the window up. That's if the window still and regulator have the ability to move. Once up, put the motor back. And everything else back. Doing these steps takes less than 30mins. To remove the window regulator and everything that I do in the video, takes over an hour. 2+hrs for someone who has never done it.
@@MTTech you would've been so helpful before I ended up getting it fixed. lol. I was charged $220 with the parts. The labor took about an hour and half. 🤷♀
Hey Joey, I was going through my email and it looks like you left a comment asking if I would know what could cause your brakes to squeal? I can no longer find the comment on this video, so I assume you deleted the comment. Many things can cause brake squeal. What pads and rotors did you install? Cheap pads can squeak even with plenty of friction material left. Did you lube up the new brake hardware and contact points? Always use new brake hardware, don't reuse old ones. Eric from South Main Auto has a great video on brakes: ua-cam.com/video/Yhw_d_EWrOQ/v-deo.html Hope his video gives you some tips.
@@MTTech hey sorry for a very late reply, not sure what pads I used but they were definitely cheap ones, so I’m assuming it’s because of that, but now I’m hearing squeaking when driving high speeds and car is bouncing up and down when I’m on highway, or I make a turn without using brakes at all. Also just tonight I started hearing a weird clunk sound when going over speed bump. Here is a link to some videos of some of the sounds imgur.com/a/6fxPn3e could this all be the pads? Maybe a year ago I had a brake caliber seize up and I didn’t realize til I heard this terrible grinding of it clamped down on my rotor ending up destroying it. Could another caliber have broke and be holding the brake pad against rotor causing the sounds? Maybe it’s something with suspension idk. Or is this all just cheap brake pads. Again sorry for late response
@@joeym2723 The squeaking sounds like the brake wear indicator scraping the rotor when you apply the brakes. Either the cheap pad material wore down to the wear indicator, or a seized caliper is seized and holding a pad against the rotor causing premature wear and thus causing the wear indicator to scrape the rotor when braking. Did you replace the brake hardware when installing the cheap pads? Normally, cheap pads don't come with brake hardware, so if you reused the old hardware, that could cause a pad to seize up as well. I'd recommend you to watch this video which explains the importance of how to replace brakes properly. Cleaning out the rust if there is any and prevent a seize caliper/pad: ua-cam.com/video/Yhw_d_EWrOQ/v-deo.html The bouncing car and clunking over bumps is an indicator of bad/worn struts. You can either have a shop replace just the front struts or if you're a DIY type person, you can buy the entire strut/coil/mount pre-assembled and install it youself. This does require taking off the wheel, and unbolting the knuckle that attaches to the bottom of the strut assembly. It is recommended to replace both driver and passenter side struts as you want the car to sit and ride evenly, and not crooked to one side due to one strut being older. This is what just the strut looks like: www.rockauto.com/info/63/340024__ra_p.jpg and here is what the entire strut/coil assembly looks like: www.rockauto.com/info/904/172281__ra_p.jpg
@@MTTech how long should brake pads last? Cause I just replaced them 10-20k miles ago, that was when I had to replace my caliper I replaced all the brake pads and rotors (had a mechanic friend do it for me) not sure if he reused old hardware, and I’ve taken it to him about the squeaking thinking it was the brake pads but he said my brake pads were fine. Sounds like it should take it to someone else?
Can someone help me!? I installed a new regulator and my window still doesn’t work. I can hear the motor spinning but my window still doesn’t go up or down. I tightened down the regulator clamps onto the window and I’m still able to push the window up and down. I have no idea what’s going on, my window has been like this for weeks and I don’t wanna go to the stealership pls someone enlightened me.
Apologies for the super late response. If you are able to push the window up and down WITH the motor installed, then the issue is the motor not engaging with the gear in the window regulator. The window should NOT be able to move with your hands if the motor is installed. Check to see if you have the black plastic window gear installed between your window motor and regulator, as shown here: ua-cam.com/video/8vK26uX0WEI/v-deo.html
Have you removed the window motor? If not, try removing the motor and see if you can move the glass down with your hands, until the bolts appear through the holes in the metal window regulator panel.
Как же всё геморойно на этой сонате, до этого ездил на субару, бед не знал, а тут купил сонату, 3 дверные наружние ручки не работают, а что бы к ним добраться, нужно потратить 2 часа времени на разборку одной двери, жесть
I have never seen a more ignorant design. In all the window regulators Ive done never have I had to remove exterior door handles or wiring harnesses. Lots of extra work for such a simple thing. Oh, and rivets holding the speaker in? Hyundai engineers need a trip to the wood shed.
The speakers on my 2011 Toyota Corolla were also riveted in. While yes I agree there's so much extra crap to deal with, the metal window regulator is better structurally then just a thin plastic like other car makes.
Yes the design of the window regulator sucks. But on the flip side, the outer door handle is easy to replace. Where as some other cars require removal of the interior door assembly.
@@MTTech you're absolutely right but it's not worth the tradeoff. Riveted door speakers? Who does that??? I was doing right rear outter handle couple hours ago. Socket dropped inside door. I went to remove it then I saw the bag of foolishness. I said f it. Left the socket in the door and just changed the handle.
Very good howto. Thanks! Had I not watched this first, I would have struggled. That is the WORST window regulator job I've ever done. What a pain!
Thank you for watching! Yeah, this window regulator design is a pain.
Great video, thanks. I've replaced window regulators on other cars. I've never seen one that was as hard to get to as this Hyundai Sonata - absolutely ridiculous.
Yeah, not sure what the engineers were thinking when designing that.
Thank you so much for taking the time! Video was excellent and made my job much easier.Replaced passenger side on 2008 sonata limited, again great job much appreciated!
Glad to help!
Thank you SO much for taking the time to do this. What a blessing.
You're welcome.
Thank you for these great videos. So far you’ve helped us repair the door handles and now the window regulator. Saved us a ton! Thank you 😊
You're welcome. I'm glad you found my videos helpful!
Thanks Mr. T for a very helpful video. Used to do this type work. . .in the 80s. Somewhat different now. Much obliged for the help. LB
Thanks man! This was really helpful.
Thanks for this. I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Rear, Driver Side Power Window Regulator to replace and this helped a lot.
I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Several people have had the same problem that I did. If the window regulator has failed and you aren't able to move the window to the right position to loosen the bolts that are clamping the glass. Get a drill and make a new access hole wherever they are stuck at. You will not ruin anything that doesn't get thrown away after you're done.
I spent 20 mins searching the web forgot that part in there rn is trash 😂
If you could make a video of this I’d very appreciate it because my glass won’t go down when I try to push it down as you say to get access to those two bolts
@@stevhandingwall2028 I'm sorry but I sold that car and I've never made a video myself. That entire regulator panel gets replaced so anything that you do to it to get access to those bolts is acceptable in my book. Good luck. 👍
Thank you for the reply I will face the battle tomorrow I will do what I must to get it off
@@stevhandingwall2028 be brave. Do good things. 👍
thank you man, helped me fix my window.
You're welcome.
I can confirm that this step by step will also work for the 2014 Sonata. The door panel has only two screws holding it down, one in the door handle and the other is inside the door lever. I followed the video on how to replace a broken door actuator
Good to know that the steps are similar across different vehicles.
Thank you, this video was quite helpful.
You're welcome.
Youre the man, thankyou for the video
Very good video, extra thorough
Thank you. I need to work on not being too thorough. I don't like to miss steps, so that's probably why I am thorough.
Great video. Made the job easy.
Thank you! Much appreciated
Great video
When i saw the whole panel was one piece i thought it was a great idea. Then i tried to replace it and could not believe how difficult the made this. The cherry on top is they used rivots. 9 out of 10 people don’t have a drill AND rivot gun
Super helpful video! Thank you!
You're welcome. Glad my video was helpful.
You are professional!!!
Thank you very much help a lot people like me I don’t know much is helpful good explanation step by step
You're welcome.
Great video, great job
Thank you!
What does usually break? I am wondering if this can fixed rather than replacing the whole thing. Mine makes sounds and the motor works but window does not work. I clearly heard something plastic breaking before it stopped working
Great video....THS
very good job
thanks to explain🌹
You're welcome.
Thanks I have an I30 but similar setup
My 2010 goes up and down, but once its all the way down I cant get it to come back up. I have to pull the window towards the back of the car to get it to move then about 1/2 way up it goes well. Do I need a regulator or a motor?
Great video, thanks
You're welcome.
So I put my driver side window down the other day and now it doesn’t go back up, it makes the motor sound when I try but nothing, and of course it’s rained like every day since it’s happened. Is that a regulator problem?
good job dude!!
Thanks.
Gracias excelente 👌
One note I’d add is that once everything is disconnected from the regulator, be aware that if the clamps are in the way, disconnect the locking mechanism from the regulator before you’re able to take the regulator out
Thanks for the tip!
please give me idea how can I change my speedometer on sonata 2006... thanks
This was very helpful! Do you have the video of installing the new regulator and reassembling the door?
Yes, it's currently in the editing stage. I can try and get it done today.
Update: Video uploaded, ua-cam.com/video/cP-ZTywPp4w/v-deo.html
@@MTTech awesome, thank you!!
Hyundai always over complicated things. Crazy you have to removed the outside door latch etc
I tried taking mine off yesterday it’s a pain because the glass doesn’t move up or down
Thank you 👍🏼
You’re welcome
gracias ,saludos desde chile
You're welcome.
Hi, you mentioned needing a torx bit for the window motor and door lock was size are the bits?
Unfortunately, I don't remember the size. Probably a T30. You could also buy a small assortment of sizes just in case.
شكرا
Very helpful.. ty
You're welcome
Thank you bro
You're welcome.
This is not a fun job, thanks so much for taking the time to do it.
You're welcome!
Not 100% on which parts I don't need to remove if I'm just trying to get the door handle bolt out. Do I still need to loosen the window bolts? I'm also doing this on an Azera and it seems like they've put some kind of insulation/glue around the edges of the metal piece that lets me get to where the bolt fell.
You'll still need to remove the same stuff. If it's an 06-11 Azera. Not familiar with 12-17 Azera.
Could I explain how to remove backdoor handle please, and thanks for your very good application
Should be the same procedure as the with the front door handle removal: ua-cam.com/video/i4CmDkp-haM/v-deo.html
Could you have left the door lock actuator/assembly in place and just slide the door open/lock cables through the holes? Would save a couple steps if so?
Unfortunately no, there is not enough wiggle room to slide the window regulator off the door lock actuator. Even if you were able to slide the regulator off without removing the actuator, you'd have a hard time sliding the three white plastic "forks" into the slots of the lock actuator inside the door due not being able to see where the slots are and not having room with the large window regulator.
Hello MTTech. My cable snapped on the regulator. I Can not manually nor with the motor move the window up. Is there a good way to do this with the broken cable?
Meaning I cant raise the window enough to get to the window bolts
Any idea why the window goes down when I press up and vise versa? The motor was unplug when I got the car and the regulator needed replacing. The motor plug is keyed, so it doesn't make sense...I thought of re-keying (Dremel) the plug and flipping it around
My first guess is flipped wires or bad switch, but that doesn't make sense if the window has worked normally before..
Found out they wound the cable spool backwards. I Dremelled 2 keyways and flipped the connector.@@MTTech
Hi! I have a question... The window regulator broke with the window open, so as it is right now, I can't get to the screw to loosen the window. Any suggestions on how I might be able to get the window up? Should I just get some pliars (and cloth to protect the window) and pull it up?
Does the motor work at all? You could lift the glass with one hand while the other lifts up on the window switch. Option two is to just unscrew the window motor (three torx screws) and take off the motor. Then lift the glass and push it up by hand. And put the motor back on.
@@MTTech Thank you for the fast response!! Unfortunately, it's not the motor that's broken. It's the cable inside the window regulator. The motor tries to work, but the window can't go up because the window cable is no longer attached. I think removing the motor might solve the issue though...? Then I would be able to physically pull the window up with my hand, right?
Correct. I don't remember if there's multiple cables. But probably. If you can't pull the window up with the motor attached, then you will need to remove the motor first.
Savannah big help watching your video
You're welcome!
So in order to replace the regulator you don’t have to rewire anything? I just got charged 130 to get mines replaced… kinda felt like I was getting hustled
Nope. No need to replace any wires. It's just a tedious process that takes time. Most shops charge $100-$120/hr labor + parts.
I was trying to remove the window regulator to change, but I am unable to pull the window glass up. Looks like it is stuck with glass. I have 2009 Sonata gls. Any tips to pull the window glass up?
Are you saying the glass is stuck in the clamps of the regulator?
@@MTTech Glass is stuck inside the plastic cap. Unable to get it out
Yes that is correct
@@MTTech Yes That is correct
So the regulator is the same for Sonata from 2006 to 2010? Does it match any other Hyundai car? Thanks
If you give me the VIN of your car, I can look up the regulator that will fit.
Can the widow be pulled up temporarily if it fell all the way down. This mechanic told me it can’t because it’s attached to the regulator. 😑😏
I wanted to pull it up and tape it until I can get it fixed.
Also, how long did it take you to fix it? The mechanic said it’ll take 2hrs then stated maybe 3-4hrs. 🤦🏻♀️
I assume your window motor doesn't work? If it doesn't, remove the inner door panel, disconnect the cables, disconnect the cable for the window motor, remove the screws for the window motor, remove the window motor, and wind up the white gear behind it with your hand. This should move the window up. That's if the window still and regulator have the ability to move. Once up, put the motor back. And everything else back. Doing these steps takes less than 30mins. To remove the window regulator and everything that I do in the video, takes over an hour. 2+hrs for someone who has never done it.
@@MTTech you would've been so helpful before I ended up getting it fixed. lol. I was charged $220 with the parts. The labor took about an hour and half. 🤷♀
@@nativempress Honestly, that doesn't sound bad for pricing. Seems fair to me.
@@MTTech yes I agree! I am so thankful.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hey Joey, I was going through my email and it looks like you left a comment asking if I would know what could cause your brakes to squeal? I can no longer find the comment on this video, so I assume you deleted the comment. Many things can cause brake squeal. What pads and rotors did you install? Cheap pads can squeak even with plenty of friction material left. Did you lube up the new brake hardware and contact points? Always use new brake hardware, don't reuse old ones. Eric from South Main Auto has a great video on brakes: ua-cam.com/video/Yhw_d_EWrOQ/v-deo.html Hope his video gives you some tips.
@@MTTech hey sorry for a very late reply, not sure what pads I used but they were definitely cheap ones, so I’m assuming it’s because of that, but now I’m hearing squeaking when driving high speeds and car is bouncing up and down when I’m on highway, or I make a turn without using brakes at all. Also just tonight I started hearing a weird clunk sound when going over speed bump. Here is a link to some videos of some of the sounds imgur.com/a/6fxPn3e could this all be the pads? Maybe a year ago I had a brake caliber seize up and I didn’t realize til I heard this terrible grinding of it clamped down on my rotor ending up destroying it. Could another caliber have broke and be holding the brake pad against rotor causing the sounds? Maybe it’s something with suspension idk. Or is this all just cheap brake pads. Again sorry for late response
@@joeym2723 The squeaking sounds like the brake wear indicator scraping the rotor when you apply the brakes. Either the cheap pad material wore down to the wear indicator, or a seized caliper is seized and holding a pad against the rotor causing premature wear and thus causing the wear indicator to scrape the rotor when braking. Did you replace the brake hardware when installing the cheap pads? Normally, cheap pads don't come with brake hardware, so if you reused the old hardware, that could cause a pad to seize up as well. I'd recommend you to watch this video which explains the importance of how to replace brakes properly. Cleaning out the rust if there is any and prevent a seize caliper/pad: ua-cam.com/video/Yhw_d_EWrOQ/v-deo.html
The bouncing car and clunking over bumps is an indicator of bad/worn struts. You can either have a shop replace just the front struts or if you're a DIY type person, you can buy the entire strut/coil/mount pre-assembled and install it youself. This does require taking off the wheel, and unbolting the knuckle that attaches to the bottom of the strut assembly. It is recommended to replace both driver and passenter side struts as you want the car to sit and ride evenly, and not crooked to one side due to one strut being older. This is what just the strut looks like: www.rockauto.com/info/63/340024__ra_p.jpg and here is what the entire strut/coil assembly looks like: www.rockauto.com/info/904/172281__ra_p.jpg
@@MTTech how long should brake pads last? Cause I just replaced them 10-20k miles ago, that was when I had to replace my caliper I replaced all the brake pads and rotors (had a mechanic friend do it for me) not sure if he reused old hardware, and I’ve taken it to him about the squeaking thinking it was the brake pads but he said my brake pads were fine. Sounds like it should take it to someone else?
I was going to volunteer to do my roommate's Sonata...NOT NOW!!!
Yeah, it's not the easiest car to work on..
Can someone help me!? I installed a new regulator and my window still doesn’t work. I can hear the motor spinning but my window still doesn’t go up or down. I tightened down the regulator clamps onto the window and I’m still able to push the window up and down. I have no idea what’s going on, my window has been like this for weeks and I don’t wanna go to the stealership pls someone enlightened me.
Apologies for the super late response. If you are able to push the window up and down WITH the motor installed, then the issue is the motor not engaging with the gear in the window regulator. The window should NOT be able to move with your hands if the motor is installed. Check to see if you have the black plastic window gear installed between your window motor and regulator, as shown here: ua-cam.com/video/8vK26uX0WEI/v-deo.html
Stipped gear in the motor bro I would have just replaced both
I can't open silver part beacuase of window glass
Have you removed the window motor? If not, try removing the motor and see if you can move the glass down with your hands, until the bolts appear through the holes in the metal window regulator panel.
Vaina pa complicada 😮
Как же всё геморойно на этой сонате, до этого ездил на субару, бед не знал, а тут купил сонату, 3 дверные наружние ручки не работают, а что бы к ним добраться, нужно потратить 2 часа времени на разборку одной двери, жесть
Yeah, unfortunately it's only these model years, with this cheap plastic door handle.
I have never seen a more ignorant design. In all the window regulators Ive done never have I had to remove exterior door handles or wiring harnesses. Lots of extra work for such a simple thing. Oh, and rivets holding the speaker in? Hyundai engineers need a trip to the wood shed.
The speakers on my 2011 Toyota Corolla were also riveted in. While yes I agree there's so much extra crap to deal with, the metal window regulator is better structurally then just a thin plastic like other car makes.
Horrible horrible design.
Yes the design of the window regulator sucks. But on the flip side, the outer door handle is easy to replace. Where as some other cars require removal of the interior door assembly.
@@MTTech you're absolutely right but it's not worth the tradeoff. Riveted door speakers? Who does that???
I was doing right rear outter handle couple hours ago. Socket dropped inside door. I went to remove it then I saw the bag of foolishness.
I said f it. Left the socket in the door and just changed the handle.
@@ryanmedows6072 I assume it depends on the model also. Other auto makers do it too. 10th gen (06-11)Toyota Corollas also have riveted door speakers.