Just a suggestion. What I normally do to transfer a pattern from plus nuts or riv nuts is cut off a short piece of threaded bolt of the size of your plus nut, grind a bit of point on it and screw it in just a bit so it protrudes an 1/8". Put your furring strip where you want it and tap it with a plastic hammer, it'll leave indentations where you need to drill.
Yup, credit is due to you for doing a great job with detail. It has helped me a lot to have a better understanding how I may do things. My next step is framing the van. Keep up the great work. Can’t wait to see how you run your electrical 🤙
Jason Klunk I couldn’t find your email so I wrote you a story on Instagram of questions I have and I’m sure I’ll have a million more for you lol. You’ve been very helpful with your videos and replying back much appreciated and thanks for your patience
I really like your “over-kill” I am following your build, cuz I’m building along with you. I am sick of painting! Haha Please keep your vids detailed so I can get things figured out. Loving you videos and am anxious to see what step I am going to do next. 😀👍
I've been rolling through watching this entire playlist. Great stuff! I really enjoy your build so far and the way you view "the process". Thanks for the detailed videos as you have some great ideas to pass on!
This is my first video I watched of yours. I am so happy you are really starting from scratch and showing your whole build. I subscribed. Couple of things, you might explain more about what the crossnuts are really used for. I have never heard of them. Also, maybe slow your camera movement down a bit when your are holding it, some parts made me a little dizzy, lol, Really though, thank you for going through this, my hubby and I are going to start one in the fall and really need guidence on how to even start.
The crossnuts allow you to create your own high strength threads for bolts. So rather than drilling directly into the van metal with sheet metal screws, you install these crossnuts, and then use bolts to hang things like furing strips and panels. The van already has tons of round holes in the frame for some reason, so you are able to take advantage of a lot of those holes instead of drilling new ones. The big con to using these is that it takes a ton more time. It's a lot easier to just drill straight into the van and call it a day. It's hard to keep it extremely steady without a gimbal, but I'll keep that in mind lol.
Jason...There's going to come a day where I buy a van for myself to live in and love the workmanship that's gone into your build. I'm wondering if you've saved your notes lol Maybe you have them uploaded somewhere 😜 thanks - A.
This is great! Been following along and just put in my thinsulate. Was wondering when you wire everything what your plan is? I'm worried that I'll build too much before wiring and wont be able to hide or run cable.
I ran all of my wires before I finished the ceiling. I knew where everything needed to go so I pulled everything through and let things just hang until I was ready to install all of my electrical components.
I was thinking that about the lock tight and mold paint. But it happens, bolts can come loose and vans can get moldy. Crazier things have and will happen in a mobile home. if you are trying to build something that will last 10-20 years with less repairs and maintenance, it takes more work up front. If you want your van for 3-5 years max, skip these steps.
Hey Jason! I’ve learned so much from your videos. I’m curious what the name of the tool/drill bit that you are using to make the small circular indents into the wood so the washer and screw heads fit flush into the wood? Thanks!
We have used m8 rivnuts for everything “structural” in our van (cabinets, kitchen, gas tanks, etc) but just metal screws for wall and roof panel furring strips. This looks like it took ages you can do a whole van in about 30 minutes with screws! Dose look sweet tho
Hi, I have a Promaster on order, so I have not seen it. I want to order plus nuts for it. What size are the common holes - in other words, what size plus nuts (cross nuts) should I get. (You linked to 2 different sizes).
@@JasonKlunk Thanks but do you remember which were most common. For now I am not attaching much yet - except a pair of horizontal 2x6s to attach joist hangers for 2x4s for a smaller than twin size elevated bed.
I've been watching videos on plusnut installs for weeks and NONE of them ever show/mention how they get the screw into the damn rivet. I had really resigned to it being done by magic.
Hey man thanks for all these vids, super helpful! Question regarding furring strips cause I know nothing about painting, can I just use any type of primer on them? I'm confused as to how I know when I can only prime wood vs having to add paint/clear coat.
What size rivet nuts you used for the preexisting wholes ? I'm a bit lost in the whole to nut ratio. This is all new to me. Also doing a Promaster conversion. Thanks for the video! Awesome content!
This might be an exceptionally stupid question, but I've seen a lot of vids ripping 1/2" birch plywood to create studs. About to begin my framing, and I was wondering what is the reason for using 1/2" birch plywood ripped into strips versus using 1x2/1x3/1x4 furring strips (common, pine, poplar, etc.)? Is it cost? Is it that furring strips aren't precisely same thickness so things might not be square? Or is it that you need varying widths throughout van so easier to custom cut from ply? It would seem to me that furring strips would be much much easier, but it seems like a less common approach so perhaps it's one of the above that needs to be confirmed or I'm really missing something? Thanks!
Plywood is cheaper to cut up and use. However, the more important reason is so that you can size it exactly to what you need. It's important to maximize space where you can, so if you only need a 1/2" stud, using a 1x3 is wasteful. In some spaces you may need a full 1", so it's easier to double 1/2" ply than try to deal with 1x3's (which are 3/4").
Thanks Jason! Makes total sense. Thank you for clarifying - spent the day taping out and measuring every place I want a stud and I now see first hand how many different depths are needed to make things flush. Stacking 1/2inch ply makes sense! One other question for you: Did you use the 1/4 20 and 10-32 in the hex holes too? I plan on utilizing a lot of those to hang my furring strips and am wondering whether the links in your description work for hex holes of if I should buy plus nuts in hex shapes. Thanks!!
Question. When framing the front rib can you tell me what angle you put on the block and what size they were. Did you need to plane down the final framing piece? Thanks for the videos
Thanks. Yeah, I added some supports to hold the shiplap at the back of the van. You can kind of see what I did here: ua-cam.com/video/GqLnU29gugg/v-deo.html
Hey Jason! under the headliner did you drill holes for the plus nuts? Or did you use the hex holes? I put a 10-32 in one of the hex holes just to see if it would work but not sure it wont spin. Thanks buddy!
Do you need both the 1/4" and 10-32 cross nuts or could you do the whole van with just one size? Ordering my hardware now and looking to save some money
These I believe are called plus nuts and are different than rivets. If you had either type that would spin you either did not get it tight enough or you cross threaded it.
Huh, back at it again, and I’m even more confused haha. The threads on my Astro seem to work perfect with with the plus nuts, no major resistance screwing the mandrel in or out or anything of the sort. Yet the machine screws are catching and grabbing, and subsequently making the nut spin. I’m thinking there might be something obvious I’m missing here😬
I ran cables to/from where my batteries will be in one of the roof ribs, they come out of that beam in the middle of the van on the drivers side (batteries will be on the passenger side in the back). I will be building a platform between my bench seats so I made a little channel to run wires through that as well. I'm using split loom tubing to hold the wires and keep them safe from rubbing against any metal/wood edges.
Question. What size plus nuts are you using for the holes that exist in the van? I can't find the right size out of the kit that fits the pre-existing holes. Or are you drilling all new holes and using a specific plus-nut size? Thanks! Great work.
Thanks. I have them linked in the description. I used 10-32 and 1/4-20. 10-32 fits in the smaller round holes, 1/4-20 in the medium sized round holes. I only drilled a few holes, like 90% of them were already in the van.
Most of the holes I used were the round holes. I may have used a few of the hexagonal holes, you just have to make sure the back of the plus nut will cover enough of the metal
@@JasonKlunk Jason how did you handle attaching the ceiling to the back of the van? I'm going to use a version of the front you used and I think the cut needs to be 55 - 60 degrees.
@@paulowen9432 I attached some small poplar pieces to hold the shiplap at the back of the van, on that piece of metal which holds the back interior light. You can kind of see what I did here: ua-cam.com/video/GqLnU29gugg/v-deo.html
@@JasonKlunk just chiming in here. I have a 2022 and my sizes are all different than yours too. And a different spot in my van doesn't have holes where yours does and vice versa. Comical. These videos are incredibly helpful! I am really picky with how people deliver these kinds of videos and your feed here is incredible helpful. I am taking in lots of information & grateful for your time and effort into making these. Thank You!
Doing my ceiling strips now, the first 3 plus nuts I put in are all wonky, the threads got warped . I found this to be the case on any surface that’s not right in front of me, it’s hard to make the Astro sit straight. any Astro and plus nut tips to getting them everytime?
Hard to explain, but if you're not already doing it, try going little by little with the bottom round piece that turns/screws. Rather than turning it until the handles are really far out, just turn it a few times so that it's easier to squeeze, I find it easier to keep it straight if you do it that way. Put some holes in a piece of scrap wood and practice on that until you get it. Hope that helps.
That's always a risk. The Germans like to use hex rivnuts. You need a puller to convert a round hole to a hex. A hex rivnut will never spin out. Another thought is some steel based JB weld epoxy on the flange mating surface. Let setup before using.
@@lkazanov yeah, I thought about using something like JB weld, of course I thought of that once I was done lol. If I do it again, I'll probably look towards the hex nuts.
@@sandrisaug They definitely can, it's more of a question of strength. Self tapping screws in really thin sheet metal are going to be less secure IMO. But it's also a preference on not drilling more holes into the sheet metal and creating potential for rust
Your idea is now clear for me, TY. I agree, rivet nut bolts have more chances to stay on place. For bolt-nut pair fixing together its also possible to use Loctite at least. I just also started similar project, its the reason to get all pros and cons about different technologies in different building stages.
Your bolts/screws match the plus nut sizing. So you would use 1/4-20 bolts in a 1/4-20 plus nut, you just have to figure out the length you need. I ordered all my bolts from boltdepot.com, you can order by the qty which is super nice if you need a random size and only a few of them.
yep, I had a few that didn't work out and had to redo. After doing my entire van, I learned that the secret is to use tooth lock washers on the back of them. I wish I would have figured that out before lol.
@@JasonKlunk valuable information for sure! I gave up on them. The fact that it only worked 30% of the time I was like.... sheet metal screws it is! Haha
Check out the description, a lot of the information is in there. I used a variety of machine screws that I ordered from boltdepot.com. Product #'s 1369, 1371, 1381, 1379
Most of the holes I used were the round holes. I may have used a few of the hexagonal holes, you just have to make sure the back of the plus nut will cover enough of the metal.
I really like your build so far but you have to slow down with the camera movement. We haven’t even got time to focus on what you’re talking about. Cheers from Canader eh!
I’ve used the plus nut technique and featured in my latest tiktok video: vm.tiktok.com/JMj15ec/ Thank you so much for your videos! They are extremely detailed and precise while not being too long to watch 👌
Just a suggestion. What I normally do to transfer a pattern from plus nuts or riv nuts is cut off a short piece of threaded bolt of the size of your plus nut, grind a bit of point on it and screw it in just a bit so it protrudes an 1/8". Put your furring strip where you want it and tap it with a plastic hammer, it'll leave indentations where you need to drill.
Great work. This is exactly what I'm also doing in my 136 Promaster, and I hugely appreciate being able to see hands on what you're doing.
Cool, thanks!
Jason you're doing a great job. Your attention to detail is fantastic. The detail takes time but it's well worth it in the end.
I appreciate the kind words!
Yup, credit is due to you for doing a great job with detail. It has helped me a lot to have a better understanding how I may do things. My next step is framing the van. Keep up the great work. Can’t wait to see how you run your electrical 🤙
Thank you, glad it's been helpful.
Jason Klunk Where did you get your 3/4 RMax insulation?
@@danielvanduyne3039 J&B Materials
Jason Klunk I couldn’t find your email so I wrote you a story on Instagram of questions I have and I’m sure I’ll have a million more for you lol. You’ve been very helpful with your videos and replying back much appreciated and thanks for your patience
I really like your “over-kill” I am following your build, cuz I’m building along with you. I am sick of painting! Haha Please keep your vids detailed so I can get things figured out. Loving you videos and am anxious to see what step I am going to do next. 😀👍
lol thanks
We too are following all of the videos, I would ♥️ to see all of the previous videos, (we’re relatively new to all of this!).
@@mnsignr All of my videos for this build are in a playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLC6QhCVkPkkcliBQl_Uk_81RRvO8ajVoK.html
I'm following along with the build too! The only issue is that I'm going in a slightly different order
Such incredible and informative content! You pay alot of attention to detail and it's so appreciated. Also absoulutly love your music.
Thank you!
Thanks again Jason! Your vids are helping me out a ton with my build!
Glad to hear it!
Another great video thank you.
Thanks
I've been rolling through watching this entire playlist. Great stuff! I really enjoy your build so far and the way you view "the process". Thanks for the detailed videos as you have some great ideas to pass on!
Awesome, thank you!
Great work man, thanks for sharing. I would be so frustrated trying to do the build and documenting it, seems like double the work, thanks.
thanks, it has definitely been a lot of work lol
This is my first video I watched of yours. I am so happy you are really starting from scratch and showing your whole build. I subscribed. Couple of things, you might explain more about what the crossnuts are really used for. I have never heard of them. Also, maybe slow your camera movement down a bit when your are holding it, some parts made me a little dizzy, lol, Really though, thank you for going through this, my hubby and I are going to start one in the fall and really need guidence on how to even start.
The crossnuts allow you to create your own high strength threads for bolts. So rather than drilling directly into the van metal with sheet metal screws, you install these crossnuts, and then use bolts to hang things like furing strips and panels. The van already has tons of round holes in the frame for some reason, so you are able to take advantage of a lot of those holes instead of drilling new ones. The big con to using these is that it takes a ton more time. It's a lot easier to just drill straight into the van and call it a day.
It's hard to keep it extremely steady without a gimbal, but I'll keep that in mind lol.
Clever use for the blue tape! Precision, not overkill lol
That's what I like to tell myself lol
Nice to see a pro at work :)
Thanks. Pro might be a stretch lol
Jason...There's going to come a day where I buy a van for myself to live in and love the workmanship that's gone into your build. I'm wondering if you've saved your notes lol
Maybe you have them uploaded somewhere 😜 thanks - A.
lol, these videos are my notes
This is great! Been following along and just put in my thinsulate. Was wondering when you wire everything what your plan is? I'm worried that I'll build too much before wiring and wont be able to hide or run cable.
I ran all of my wires before I finished the ceiling. I knew where everything needed to go so I pulled everything through and let things just hang until I was ready to install all of my electrical components.
You do very nice, very detailed work, but yes - I think in some cases you make way more work for yourself than necessary.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I was thinking that about the lock tight and mold paint. But it happens, bolts can come loose and vans can get moldy. Crazier things have and will happen in a mobile home. if you are trying to build something that will last 10-20 years with less repairs and maintenance, it takes more work up front. If you want your van for 3-5 years max, skip these steps.
Hey Jason! I’ve learned so much from your videos. I’m curious what the name of the tool/drill bit that you are using to make the small circular indents into the wood so the washer and screw heads fit flush into the wood? Thanks!
Hey - sorry for the delayed response. I was using a spade bit, you could also use a forstner bit.
Thank you so much!!
We have used m8 rivnuts for everything “structural” in our van (cabinets, kitchen, gas tanks, etc) but just metal screws for wall and roof panel furring strips. This looks like it took ages you can do a whole van in about 30 minutes with screws!
Dose look sweet tho
lol, yeah man it took forever.
Hi, I have a Promaster on order, so I have not seen it. I want to order plus nuts for it. What size are the common holes - in other words, what size plus nuts (cross nuts) should I get. (You linked to 2 different sizes).
There are multiple sizes, I used both of the ones that I have linked.
@@JasonKlunk Thanks but do you remember which were most common. For now I am not attaching much yet - except a pair of horizontal 2x6s to attach joist hangers for 2x4s for a smaller than twin size elevated bed.
I've been watching videos on plusnut installs for weeks and NONE of them ever show/mention how they get the screw into the damn rivet. I had really resigned to it being done by magic.
lol
What are you screwing the frame around the fan too.? Thank you and your vids are so much help ❤️
Hey man thanks for all these vids, super helpful! Question regarding furring strips cause I know nothing about painting, can I just use any type of primer on them? I'm confused as to how I know when I can only prime wood vs having to add paint/clear coat.
I used mold/mildew primer on anything that was going to be touching metal in case there was moisture coming off the metal.
What size rivet nuts you used for the preexisting wholes ? I'm a bit lost in the whole to nut ratio. This is all new to me. Also doing a Promaster conversion. Thanks for the video! Awesome content!
10-32 and 1/4-20
dude looking good!
Thanks 🙏
This might be an exceptionally stupid question, but I've seen a lot of vids ripping 1/2" birch plywood to create studs. About to begin my framing, and I was wondering what is the reason for using 1/2" birch plywood ripped into strips versus using 1x2/1x3/1x4 furring strips (common, pine, poplar, etc.)? Is it cost? Is it that furring strips aren't precisely same thickness so things might not be square? Or is it that you need varying widths throughout van so easier to custom cut from ply? It would seem to me that furring strips would be much much easier, but it seems like a less common approach so perhaps it's one of the above that needs to be confirmed or I'm really missing something?
Thanks!
Plywood is cheaper to cut up and use. However, the more important reason is so that you can size it exactly to what you need. It's important to maximize space where you can, so if you only need a 1/2" stud, using a 1x3 is wasteful. In some spaces you may need a full 1", so it's easier to double 1/2" ply than try to deal with 1x3's (which are 3/4").
Thanks Jason! Makes total sense. Thank you for clarifying - spent the day taping out and measuring every place I want a stud and I now see first hand how many different depths are needed to make things flush. Stacking 1/2inch ply makes sense!
One other question for you: Did you use the 1/4 20 and 10-32 in the hex holes too? I plan on utilizing a lot of those to hang my furring strips and am wondering whether the links in your description work for hex holes of if I should buy plus nuts in hex shapes. Thanks!!
Nice job!
Thanks!
Hello, great build as always, May i ask do you plan to put the electric wire before or after put up the frame? which kind of wire did you use? thanks!
After framing and before you panel/close up your walls/ceiling. You should be able to run all your wires to spots where you know you'll need them.
Question. When framing the front rib can you tell me what angle you put on the block and what size they were. Did you need to plane down the final framing piece? Thanks for the videos
Great job! Did you add a strip at the back on the ceiling for the shiplap? Thanks
Thanks. Yeah, I added some supports to hold the shiplap at the back of the van. You can kind of see what I did here: ua-cam.com/video/GqLnU29gugg/v-deo.html
Hey Jason! under the headliner did you drill holes for the plus nuts? Or did you use the hex holes? I put a 10-32 in one of the hex holes just to see if it would work but not sure it wont spin. Thanks buddy!
Do you need both the 1/4" and 10-32 cross nuts or could you do the whole van with just one size? Ordering my hardware now and looking to save some money
You can use one size if you want to drill your own holes in certain spots. If you go that route, use the bigger size.
I saw someone use playdoh on back of wood to help them locate the plus nuts.
good idea!
I used these to attach metal fenders to my Jeep. They called them rivnuts. Rivet nuts? I had two that spinned so much I had to tack weld them.
They are a little different than rivnuts, same concept though!
These I believe are called plus nuts and are different than rivets. If you had either type that would spin you either did not get it tight enough or you cross threaded it.
Huh, back at it again, and I’m even more confused haha. The threads on my Astro seem to work perfect with with the plus nuts, no major resistance screwing the mandrel in or out or anything of the sort. Yet the machine screws are catching and grabbing, and subsequently making the nut spin. I’m thinking there might be something obvious I’m missing here😬
Jason; what are you doing about running you wiring/cables under all those furring strips??
I ran cables to/from where my batteries will be in one of the roof ribs, they come out of that beam in the middle of the van on the drivers side (batteries will be on the passenger side in the back).
I will be building a platform between my bench seats so I made a little channel to run wires through that as well. I'm using split loom tubing to hold the wires and keep them safe from rubbing against any metal/wood edges.
Question. What size plus nuts are you using for the holes that exist in the van? I can't find the right size out of the kit that fits the pre-existing holes. Or are you drilling all new holes and using a specific plus-nut size? Thanks! Great work.
Thanks. I have them linked in the description. I used 10-32 and
1/4-20. 10-32 fits in the smaller round holes, 1/4-20 in the medium sized round holes. I only drilled a few holes, like 90% of them were already in the van.
@@JasonKlunk Thanks, sorry didn't read description. Just watched video.
@@vmorrone477 no problem. good luck!
@@JasonKlunk great idea using a paper template for drilling holes in the furring strips.
@@Trang-xq9fn thanks 🤙
Harbor tool is a cheaper way 2 buy tools. Hows their rib nut tools??
Jason, love your videos and your meticulous work. For the ceiling, how thick was the furring strips?
Thanks, I used 3/4" poplar for the ceiling.
This is probably super specific but roughly how many bolt/screws would you say you ordered to complete your framing? e.g is 50 enough?
I think it was closer to 100 in various sizes.
Thanks @@JasonKlunk, I learned the hard way that 50 wasn't enough 😭lol
I’m a bit confused, did you use circular cross nuts on the factory hexagonal holes?
Most of the holes I used were the round holes. I may have used a few of the hexagonal holes, you just have to make sure the back of the plus nut will cover enough of the metal
@@JasonKlunk sweet thanks
hey, might be a long shot, but do you know what angle the mitre was on those little pieces you cut the headliner to fit?
sorry, I don't remember!
@@JasonKlunk no worries!
@@JasonKlunk Jason how did you handle attaching the ceiling to the back of the van? I'm going to use a version of the front you used and I think the cut needs to be 55 - 60 degrees.
@@paulowen9432 I attached some small poplar pieces to hold the shiplap at the back of the van, on that piece of metal which holds the back interior light. You can kind of see what I did here: ua-cam.com/video/GqLnU29gugg/v-deo.html
Did u put up insulation with air gap?
Ok love the 🎶 music
🤙
What year is your van? My 2019 doesn't have those convenient holes on the wall-meets-ceiling angled area--I'm jealous!
Mine is a 2019 as well. Interesting, I had holes in most of those areas, but one section I had to drill my own. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@JasonKlunk just chiming in here. I have a 2022 and my sizes are all different than yours too. And a different spot in my van doesn't have holes where yours does and vice versa. Comical.
These videos are incredibly helpful! I am really picky with how people deliver these kinds of videos and your feed here is incredible helpful. I am taking in lots of information & grateful for your time and effort into making these. Thank You!
So for a first/ new van build do you buy all these saws and drills etc.? Or rent them. Sounds like ALOT of tools and money
I already had a lot of the tools, but yes that's another thing that makes these builds so expensive
Doing my ceiling strips now, the first 3 plus nuts I put in are all wonky, the threads got warped . I found this to be the case on any surface that’s not right in front of me, it’s hard to make the Astro sit straight. any Astro and plus nut tips to getting them everytime?
Hard to explain, but if you're not already doing it, try going little by little with the bottom round piece that turns/screws. Rather than turning it until the handles are really far out, just turn it a few times so that it's easier to squeeze, I find it easier to keep it straight if you do it that way. Put some holes in a piece of scrap wood and practice on that until you get it. Hope that helps.
@@JasonKlunk sweet thanks! Those things are just so finicky.
@@danielkopaee9241 Yes they are, but once you get your method dialed in, you'll be fine.
How many of your crossnuts started spinning???
That's always a risk. The Germans like to use hex rivnuts. You need a puller to convert a round hole to a hex. A hex rivnut will never spin out. Another thought is some steel based JB weld epoxy on the flange mating surface. Let setup before using.
@@lkazanov yeah, I thought about using something like JB weld, of course I thought of that once I was done lol. If I do it again, I'll probably look towards the hex nuts.
Just one question: why do you think those rivet nut bolts would not unscrew and get free like mentioned conventional self-tapping screws?
@@sandrisaug They definitely can, it's more of a question of strength. Self tapping screws in really thin sheet metal are going to be less secure IMO. But it's also a preference on not drilling more holes into the sheet metal and creating potential for rust
Your idea is now clear for me, TY. I agree, rivet nut bolts have more chances to stay on place. For bolt-nut pair fixing together its also possible to use Loctite at least.
I just also started similar project, its the reason to get all pros and cons about different technologies in different building stages.
How do you know what size screw goes in the plus nut?
Your bolts/screws match the plus nut sizing. So you would use 1/4-20 bolts in a 1/4-20 plus nut, you just have to figure out the length you need. I ordered all my bolts from boltdepot.com, you can order by the qty which is super nice if you need a random size and only a few of them.
for the rivet nuts did you have to make the holes in the frame yourself or you use the holes that are in the frame already?
I used the holes that are already in the van
No vapour barrier?
Did you have any trouble with your plus nuts spinning?
yep, I had a few that didn't work out and had to redo. After doing my entire van, I learned that the secret is to use tooth lock washers on the back of them. I wish I would have figured that out before lol.
@@JasonKlunk valuable information for sure! I gave up on them. The fact that it only worked 30% of the time I was like.... sheet metal screws it is! Haha
@@coinjoinersunlimited1140 lol I almost did the same thing.
What type of wood did you use, and what size hardware/screws did you use?
Check out the description, a lot of the information is in there. I used a variety of machine screws that I ordered from boltdepot.com. Product #'s 1369, 1371, 1381, 1379
Did you use the 1/4-20 cross nuts on the hex holes? If so how did that work for you?
Most of the holes I used were the round holes. I may have used a few of the hexagonal holes, you just have to make sure the back of the plus nut will cover enough of the metal.
Just put in a 1/4 -20 that you linked and it shakes in the hole, has that one become useless now
What size washers and screws did you use ? Thanks !
And washer size
What length screws did you use for the plus nuts?
I used both 1" and 1 1/2" screws. Different spots in the van called for different lengths.
Great tips! It would be nice if you would not go to fast when you show the pieces in place (woods) :D
Nevermind, you did at the end of the video! Cheers!
🤙
I really like your build so far but you have to slow down with the camera movement. We haven’t even got time to focus on what you’re talking about. Cheers from Canader eh!
haha, sorry - it was a lot of time/work to film the build process by myself so I was often in a hurry
I’ve used the plus nut technique and featured in my latest tiktok video: vm.tiktok.com/JMj15ec/
Thank you so much for your videos! They are extremely detailed and precise while not being too long to watch 👌
Nice, good luck with your build!
The camera swerving and maneuvering is unnerving and dizzying.