Out of the dozens of Hondas I've owned, I've had a 91 Prelude Si and an 88 Si 4WS....Loved both of those cars. The 88's body was getting pretty shot due to the previous owner not washing it and living in the salt belt...but damn, that car was bulletproof regardless of what it looked like. Wish I still had it. I still own five pre-2000 Hondas, though. Can't complain .
This actually helped me. Turned out one of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold lost a cap. Just put on some electrical tape to cover it for the time being until I can get to the parts store.
Next time if you want to check for vacuum leaks take off the air filter hose and plug the 2 holes in the throttle body with your fingers it will suck hard and die if there are no leaks. If it is leaking you can use throttle body cleaner to spray around all the places that could be leaking and if you spray somewhere and it revs up then its probably leaking from that spot. Iv done these things before I know they work.
Thanks man! You gave me some new things to look for. I already did 2 IAC valves 1 o2 sensor checked for cracks (not gaskets yet) and taken my CRV to 3 mechanics. This is getting expensive!
You can figure this out yourself! It looks daunting under that hood, but your issues is probably simple to fix. Take a simplistic approach and you'll find it! Good luck and thanks for watching!
I love what your doing, thanks for updating those who don’t know, but unfortunately as we both know that’s a skunk2 racing motor, would be nice to see on a regular k20 set up
Ive been on this surge for a yr now, replaced everything you mentioned from hoses to all sensors and gaskets still have an idle surge. It idles great from start to warm, I drive it around 20 min and soon as I pull up to a stop and hit the breaks it surges. If Im at a stand still it will idle great unless I pump the breaks then it begins to surge till I shut the car off. Ive replaced the break booster,master cylinder check valve and still a surge, my whole engine is pretty much new so yep as you said Im stuck going wtf is going on lol D15B non vtec, Ive done everything Eric the car guy said as well and nothing. The only thing Im not sure about is my timing maybe its off
Get the timing checked then. Or start you car cold, let it idle for 20 minutes without touching the brakes and see if it surges. If it does, than I think you can rule out anything with the brake booster. Good luck and keep us posted.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers Right on Ill check the timing for sure, but no it doesnt surge unless I pump the break after its at temp.. If it comes to temp its fine, only does it when pumping the breaks once its hot.. At cold I can pump the breaks all day and nothing happens, till the engines hot.. Thanks appreciate it
Thank you so much for posting this! I have a 2001 Honda accord v6 and I've been having IACV error code (p0505) pop up on my scanner tool. I replaced the IACV and the code is still popping. Im going to try all these steps!
OK. I have a 1983 praylude started out with low rpms surging with has turned into mother stopping wile in reverse 🎉 I've had it for less then a mouth and its only got 12500 miles. Runs great in 5th gear. But no other
Hey bro I know it’s been a minute but I have a question about it, was it happening only when cold ? I have the exact same surge, but once the car reaches operating tempature it stops I’m wondering if this is because the metal heats up and expands and seals the leak ? I replaced my intake gasket as well I’m wondering if I didn’t tighten it enough and it leaked
It could be anything, but probably not as complicated as you think. Follow the steps in the video and you will identify the problem. It's not witchcraft. Thanks for watching.
I don’t have any of that crap either and mine idles perfectly!! I also don’t have power steering, the vacuum box, cruise control, air conditioning or even heat!!
power steering on a performance honda is a no standard steering is more racey h22a has crower cams no balance shafts 8lb flywheel and revs freely i love it you do great work on your lude
Apparently you and I have very similar car tastes... I wish my 3rd gen prelude ran almost at all. It runs, but it DRINKS gas. You can watch the needle move from full to empty in like 30 minutes at idle
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I'll have to check. I haven't touched the car in almost 8 months. It needs so much other stuff that it was kind of just overwhelming so I stepped away from it for a bit. It needs an oil pan, gas tank, a lot of body repair. But I have the car's Hood painted with chalkboard paint, previous owner not me, so I put notes on it anytime somebody suggests something to check
Well mine i just replace the idle controle valve with new one, and i got that bouncing idle and then i put the olde one back and the idle gone back to normal, the old was just fine but since the car has more than two hundred tousand mile i start changing things in it to make sure the car never brook down, but the idlw comrol calce wasent easy ymto install, becasie it need proframming on the ECU.
My surging idle only starts after it's warm! 95 Del Sol if that helps. And if I turn on the headlights it will stop! And if I unplug the IACV while running the car runs perfect! I was told that means it's the IACV. So I bought a new one off Ebay and it still does the same exact thing. ugh! I've checked for Vacuum leaks using Carb Spray while car is cold. Cant' find any. I replaced a few hoses. Especially the one coming from engine going back into intake just before throttle. I cleaned MAF Sensor and throttle body that helped with horse power and gas mileage for sure! Air filter is only 6 months old and it's clean. not sure if EBay sold me a bad IACV. Where can I buy one that will work and isn't to much? Thanks!
Any clue what makes a car idle up and down ONLY while coasting?! As SOON as I stop it idles 100% fine... But shifting I get rev suge and hang... and there is a delay from when I let off the gas until the engine actuallys cut.. like 2 seconds.. and its all abrupt..... I found a broken wire on my tb.. fixed that... cleaned the tb.... then It started... I replaced both map and maf sensor.. reset the tps with a foxwell scanner..... no CLUE what to try next...! Ik the coolant is fine.. I think it has something to do with the tb.. due to that broken wire... but the foxwell says tac and tps are 100%.... ANYBODY have any tips?! Thank you!
20 odd years as a professional mechanic, building custom cars and race cars, then about 5 years teaching automotive diagnostics, there's three rules : 1. NEW means never been used. It DOES NOT MEAN "it's good." It only means nobody has ever installed it on a car. 2. It's not Okay until you have personally tested it and determined it is functioning properly. 3. If you don't understand what it does you really shouldn't "just delete it" because you have no clue what "deleting it" will cause in the way of unintended consequences.
By the way I see u decided to go with the Cusco steel strut bar as opposed to the aluminum alternative. Did u feel any difference in handling/feel? Thanks!
Do you think this would cause a high idle when in park ? My 90 prelude si Goes up to 2000 RPM when I started and when I put it into drive it drops to 800,
@@michaelpetersen6863 yeah, i cleaned my throttle body, adjusted the tension on the trottle cable( because it was too tight making it idle higher) that did the trick.. right after tho my motor mounts said fuck this shit we are done a week of smooth driving and then at every red light my lude started shaking like a leaf🫣
Its IAC valve. The V in IACV is for valve. Not really important I'm just pedantic and it bothered me, haha. Thanks for listing screwing in the Idle air bypass screw as the last option. It's absolutely the last thing to do once you have confirmed no other issues exist. Way too many people are telling guys to just screw it in because thats what fixed their car and their friends car. Masking the real problem.
The chronological order is obviously incorrect. You need to interchange step 1&2 . Bleed the system after working on replacing the IAC valve,,, since hoses will be removed after pulling off the valve.
So on my 2001 accord, I cleaned the throttle body, upper intake manifold and the top of the intake manifold holes, the iac valve and pcv valve and I replaced my O2 sensors as well because of a code and after I cleaned it all it started surging up and down. Im at a loss and my next guess would've been to clean the egr valve and egr passages. I'm not sure what else I need to do please help!
Does your Accord have a FIV? It will be by the throttle body. Also, is your coolant full? What about the line going to your brake booster? When did idle surge begin?
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I bought it second hand and apparently it's been happening for a while according to the previous owner. Since my comment I couldn't locate a FIV, I think in this generation they removed it. And I found damaged fuel injectors as well as seals so I have a good hunch that that may be the issue, thank you for your help and keep up the great videos 👌🏽 I'll keep you updated on how it goes ✌🏽
Damm i just bought a 2001 prelude. The idle jumps up and down, i got a iac code and a knock sensor code. While i was taking a look at the knock sensor i noticed the timing belt was loose i could almost slip it off by hand. Can a skipped timing be the cause of those codes and how bad the car idles?
Absolutely. The tensioner on your car in notorious for breaking. You should not be able to easily remove your belt. It might time for a timing belt replacement..
I bought it off preludepower.com from a guy who made them. I think if you google "FIV block off plate" you will find some for 2nd Gen Integra's or Civic's from around the same time frame. I'm sure they will all fit. Or you could get some aluminum from Lowes or Home Depot and make your own.
Need help I have a 91 Honda Accord ex do you have to back probe tps sensor I heard yes and no on it my rpm run good on idle but I hit gas and let off let idle for a bit then it dies
Extreme Daily Drivers fiiiine lol .... what about bucking ... drives amazing until after maybe a 20 min drive and warms up .... then bucks like a horse
I see all your videos and I'm a big fan. I bought a 1991 Honda Prelude with the same B21A1 engine cause I wanted to get the same car as you and also because my first car was a 89 Prelude but single cam. I had a question for you hopefully you have the answer but I'm trying to find the specs on tightening the main bearings and connecting rods cause I'm rebuilding my engine. I'm hoping to also be a daily driver. I can send pictures of where I'm at right now maybe you can tip me on my process
When I was in Highschool I had just bought my prelude. Getting out of the backed up garage generated a lot of stares while my car ‘vMMMMMbrmmm-vMMMMMbrmmm-vMMMMbrmmm’d’. Took a look at this video and I never pulled out of that garage more confidently.
I tried everything it ended up being the Fast idle Thermo valve it was letting too much air flow that caused it to surge only on park so it is important buddy I'm here in California and i also had a clogged coolant line form the fast idle Thermo valve to the IACV... deleting that valve gave me a low idle the car kept stalling on cold starts so I had to keep starting the car with the throttle fully open to keep it from stalling, once warm it idles normal so it does need the FITV. You are right on the IACV you don't need the coolant lines it's for freezing climate the problem with deleting that iacv line is that you have to reroute the coolant line that feeds the thermostat underneath the intake to the FITV. But you video was helpful but big mistake in deleting the FITV on the B20z4
When I replaced my AIC due to low RPM almost dying, it did worked, but started fluctuating, I checked if anything was loose but no. After this, I replaced SITV speed idle thermo valve. It did work. But I did open the radiator cap ONLY. Didn't bleed it exactly. But it started again. Do you think this can be of a need of coolant bleed?
Honda prelude 2.0 X auto coupe 2 doors petrol 4 cylinder engine ( B20A44500427) I'm trying my best to give you complete information that's what I have I'm just requesting to help please help I love this car where is the air control sensor
So it wasn't clear, but did you end up replacing your IACV? or just clean it? I'm thinking that's what might be wrong with mine since i've got a 70mm TB (no FITV) and Skunk2 IM
It was not the IACV. It was my intake manifold gasket installed incorrectly. If you think it's your IACV, remove it and make a block off plate with cardboard and tape and see if your idle improves.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers Mine does that too. I avoid the stall stopping 10 feet short and then driving up to the stop sign which bounces the rpms back up. I will check out my brake booster. Any specific part of it? This looked like an easy check ua-cam.com/video/LQj6jUn4-U0/v-deo.html
@@MrShakamuni01 You might hear it, but I would run my hand along the hose and see if I feel air coming out or you could spray it with water and look for bubbles. The easiest way to rule it out it is to remove the hose at the intake and plug it up with your finger and see if the idle corrects itself. Good luck. It's a process. It took me hours to find mine mostly because I was being lazy about it.
Hi, Bradon I'm looking into purchasing a 1991 honda prelude si non 4ws. Been watching your vids to try and learn how to restore and make the car run or perform better so that it may last 10-20 years without costi g so much. I want to keep the engine stock. Could you list me all the new parts you put in and estimated cost?
OMG, that would be a depressing list! :) If you want to know about the parts I used, check out my build thread on preludepower.com. It's in the "Builds" section and it's "Samhain's ALB Build." Thanks for watching!
Second video i am watching were the gasket was the issue probably the same case for my car but how can you be sure; the bolts for the intake are difficult to get to
I have a 97 crv.wont start.turns over with no start. Has a new timing belt,plugs,fuel regulator,coil and cap. Re spidered fuel relay.cant set timing until I get car running. Tried the paperclip tonight no readings or codes with engine light. My fuel damper is leaking,along with my fuel filter.
All you need is fuel, air and spark. Make sure your timing belt isn't off a tooth. You don't need the car to run to install the belt properly. Good luck.
I have the same problem I replaced all sensors and the engine is like surging up and down like if you press the gas pedal and release it at the same time I don't know what to do no I have a Honda Civic 1998 DX sedan manual D16Y7
Get a fix on this yet? I have the SOHC D16y8 and it's been idling high and idle surging for weeks now. I've been troubleshooting non stop. CTS, TPS, burped coolant,new IACV,timing adjusted, injectors checked,no vacuum leaks, block tested. I've literally checked everything.
My daughter ran through a puddle of water on the highway and then started getting the bouncing idle on her 1999 honda accord. I bled the coolant system by elevating the front end of the car, opening the radiator cap, starting the car and idling the car at 3,000 rpm (with the heater on high) until I see the radiator fluid moving. I then shut the car off, let cool, and add coolant to the overflow bottle. I also replaced the Idle Air Control Valve with an off brand off of Amazon. I still get codes P0505 (idle control system) and P1457 (Evap Canister Solenoid)
If your code reader makes suggestions as what could cause these issues, keep trouble shooting the issue. If your code reader does give suggestions to fix the problem, buy this. amzn.to/3uLhtzI
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I had my eye on this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5RMFBG/?coliid=I1QHHPKHK54642&colid=1JPAFSGCOJOXU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it. Don't know if its worth the extra $100 though.
Hi Gebby, my block off plates are actually custom made. I bought them a fellow Luder. However, I think you could probably buy a FIV or EGR block off plate for a DA Integra or something similar and it would work. Thanks for watching!
Mine only surges when warm. If there was a vacuum leak, wouldn't it surge while cold start as well??? I can let it idle for at least 6 minutes and it is perfect! No surging at all until it's really warm!
fantastic video man. If I remember I'll come back an update if any of these fix my issue. I created a whole new playlist called car shitt on UA-cam and your videos the first one in it. Thanks again.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers the weird thing is that if I put it into drive it goes away and drives fine. I took out and clean the throttle body and IAC and still surging.
I change my egr and clean my iac valve still had the same noise rep engine. Lastly I change spark plug and cap even rotor it stop the noise. All I need now is to drill and slide hammer that Six hole. Remove all the smoke carb built up over the years or rep engine gas. Need a hanger and vacuum to remove the carb muffler built up. Lastly cap the hole back up. No more idle issue especially if you got 156,000. Every prelude owner should do that by now. Every 50,000 miles a new change. Especially when you rep the rpm and the carb built up in the engine. Lastly all I will do now is brake carb clean tighten clockwise. The fast idle thermal valve and spray clean the inside. Make sure to turn every moving motor part with the brake carb. Everything should be fixed no more idling.
hello, mine does it only as long as the engine gets warm. than it stays completely at 750rpm. Do you have any guess? Also what happens is that on the first start the car dosnt want to start. it cranks and cranks. Then when i try again to start the engine it starts immediately without almost any cranking. This happens only if the car stands for a night and is ice cold. What causes this? Also I got white smoke comijgnfrom the exhaust if i push the engine revs a little higher to lets say 4000-5000 rpm. These are my two biggest problems. The car is completely repainted and looks beautiful. Will make a video on it. Just have to fix these problems.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers i wait 5 second till i here the fuel pump relay(sorry dont know the exact term for it) and then i start. but it cranks..... iihihihihhihihi. nothing. on second key turn engine comes right up. But idle is bouncing as long it get warm. On the exhaust no blue fog is coming if i pump the pedal. "only" white fog comes out. Somewhere comes water in and gets burned. hope its not an engine damage.
Extreme Daily Drivers for a 2.1 prelude? Ill owe you my soul. I can get you another soul if you can help me fix my prelude too, since none of these fixes have been working.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers hey there I need your help I have the same exact problem with my nissan tiida start up with a high rpm 2000 every morning take about 15minutes to get by the correct idle I changed all park plug all coil pack EGR valve coolant temperature sensor and I all so cleaned the mass air flow sensor and it's the same problem dont know what to do else 😥 and there's no check engine light on
Out of the dozens of Hondas I've owned, I've had a 91 Prelude Si and an 88 Si 4WS....Loved both of those cars. The 88's body was getting pretty shot due to the previous owner not washing it and living in the salt belt...but damn, that car was bulletproof regardless of what it looked like. Wish I still had it. I still own five pre-2000 Hondas, though. Can't complain .
This actually helped me. Turned out one of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold lost a cap. Just put on some electrical tape to cover it for the time being until I can get to the parts store.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Next time if you want to check for vacuum leaks take off the air filter hose and plug the 2 holes in the throttle body with your fingers it will suck hard and die if there are no leaks. If it is leaking you can use throttle body cleaner to spray around all the places that could be leaking and if you spray somewhere and it revs up then its probably leaking from that spot. Iv done these things before I know they work.
I did that like 10 times. It didn't work like I hoped.
Thanks man! You gave me some new things to look for.
I already did
2 IAC valves
1 o2 sensor
checked for cracks (not gaskets yet)
and taken my CRV to 3 mechanics.
This is getting expensive!
You can figure this out yourself! It looks daunting under that hood, but your issues is probably simple to fix. Take a simplistic approach and you'll find it! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Truthguy73 try fast idle valve
I haven’t had this problem with mine (yet!) These cars were so advanced for their time.
I love what your doing, thanks for updating those who don’t know, but unfortunately as we both know that’s a skunk2 racing motor, would be nice to see on a regular k20 set up
Otherwise good stuff!
I have news for you...it's just a sticker on an otherwise completely stock motor. 😆 Thanks for watching.
Ive been on this surge for a yr now, replaced everything you mentioned from hoses to all sensors and gaskets still have an idle surge. It idles great from start to warm, I drive it around 20 min and soon as I pull up to a stop and hit the breaks it surges. If Im at a stand still it will idle great unless I pump the breaks then it begins to surge till I shut the car off. Ive replaced the break booster,master cylinder check valve and still a surge, my whole engine is pretty much new so yep as you said Im stuck going wtf is going on lol D15B non vtec, Ive done everything Eric the car guy said as well and nothing. The only thing Im not sure about is my timing maybe its off
Get the timing checked then. Or start you car cold, let it idle for 20 minutes without touching the brakes and see if it surges. If it does, than I think you can rule out anything with the brake booster. Good luck and keep us posted.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers Right on Ill check the timing for sure, but no it doesnt surge unless I pump the break after its at temp.. If it comes to temp its fine, only does it when pumping the breaks once its hot.. At cold I can pump the breaks all day and nothing happens, till the engines hot.. Thanks appreciate it
Find a fix for it yet? My D16y8 is idle surging and I've checked EVERYTHING . I still can't figure it out. It's a big mystery
I have a 1986 prelude. I have been searching for anything even just a paragraph with the same problem that i have for 5 months or so. Thanks.
I had this problem so i've beat the shit out of the air intake control valve and haven't had any problems since
Thank you so much for posting this! I have a 2001 Honda accord v6 and I've been having IACV error code (p0505) pop up on my scanner tool. I replaced the IACV and the code is still popping. Im going to try all these steps!
Good luck!
Did you find out what happened
Thanks for the upload! Very useful info and process broken down!
OK. I have a 1983 praylude started out with low rpms surging with has turned into mother stopping wile in reverse 🎉 I've had it for less then a mouth and its only got 12500 miles. Runs great in 5th gear. But no other
Hey bro I know it’s been a minute but I have a question about it, was it happening only when cold ? I have the exact same surge, but once the car reaches operating tempature it stops
I’m wondering if this is because the metal heats up and expands and seals the leak ? I replaced my intake gasket as well I’m wondering if I didn’t tighten it enough and it leaked
It could be anything, but probably not as complicated as you think. Follow the steps in the video and you will identify the problem. It's not witchcraft. Thanks for watching.
Hey i know this video is old but can you go on more detail on how you would remove the coolant lines on the iacv
Just pull them off. Thanks for watching.
my lude does not have iab, iacv or fast idle valve on my h22a works perfect and i'm canada
love your channel
I don’t have any of that crap either and mine idles perfectly!! I also don’t have power steering, the vacuum box, cruise control, air conditioning or even heat!!
gordie french Thanks so much for watching!
power steering on a performance honda is a no standard steering is more racey
h22a has crower cams no balance shafts 8lb flywheel and revs freely
i love it
you do great work on your lude
Apparently you and I have very similar car tastes... I wish my 3rd gen prelude ran almost at all. It runs, but it DRINKS gas. You can watch the needle move from full to empty in like 30 minutes at idle
Do you still have your EGR hooked up? Sounds like that's the problem.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I'll have to check. I haven't touched the car in almost 8 months. It needs so much other stuff that it was kind of just overwhelming so I stepped away from it for a bit. It needs an oil pan, gas tank, a lot of body repair. But I have the car's Hood painted with chalkboard paint, previous owner not me, so I put notes on it anytime somebody suggests something to check
Well mine i just replace the idle controle valve with new one, and i got that bouncing idle and then i put the olde one back and the idle gone back to normal, the old was just fine but since the car has more than two hundred tousand mile i start changing things in it to make sure the car never brook down, but the idlw comrol calce wasent easy ymto install, becasie it need proframming on the ECU.
One thing i found weird with mine is that its only when the car is cold. After the car is at running temp it doesnt bounce. Need to burp the coolant?
Sounds like it!
My surging idle only starts after it's warm! 95 Del Sol if that helps.
And if I turn on the headlights it will stop!
And if I unplug the IACV while running the car runs perfect! I was told that means it's the IACV.
So I bought a new one off Ebay and it still does the same exact thing. ugh!
I've checked for Vacuum leaks using Carb Spray while car is cold. Cant' find any. I replaced a few hoses. Especially the one coming from engine going back into intake just before throttle. I cleaned MAF Sensor and throttle body that helped with horse power and gas mileage for sure! Air filter is only 6 months old and it's clean. not sure if EBay sold me a bad IACV. Where can I buy one that will work and isn't to much? Thanks!
Any clue what makes a car idle up and down ONLY while coasting?! As SOON as I stop it idles 100% fine... But shifting I get rev suge and hang... and there is a delay from when I let off the gas until the engine actuallys cut.. like 2 seconds.. and its all abrupt..... I found a broken wire on my tb.. fixed that... cleaned the tb.... then It started... I replaced both map and maf sensor.. reset the tps with a foxwell scanner..... no CLUE what to try next...! Ik the coolant is fine.. I think it has something to do with the tb.. due to that broken wire... but the foxwell says tac and tps are 100%.... ANYBODY have any tips?! Thank you!
No, but I'm sure it's a vacuum leak.
is there a fast idle valve for a 1998 honda civic ex??? also when ever i start my car kn morning my rpm idles past 3500.
Don't know. Never owned one.
20 odd years as a professional mechanic, building custom cars and race cars, then about 5 years teaching automotive diagnostics, there's three rules :
1. NEW means never been used. It DOES NOT MEAN "it's good." It only means nobody has ever installed it on a car.
2. It's not Okay until you have personally tested it and determined it is functioning properly.
3. If you don't understand what it does you really shouldn't "just delete it" because you have no clue what "deleting it" will cause in the way of unintended consequences.
I'm with you, Art. That's very good advise.
Nice Danzig banner dude!
Danzig is my hero.
By the way I see u decided to go with the Cusco steel strut bar as opposed to the aluminum alternative. Did u feel any difference in handling/feel? Thanks!
Yes, the difference is extremely noticeably. Thanks for watching!
Do you think this would cause a high idle when in park ? My 90 prelude si Goes up to 2000 RPM when I started and when I put it into drive it drops to 800,
Mine 2 did u figure it out?
@@michaelpetersen6863 yeah, i cleaned my throttle body, adjusted the tension on the trottle cable( because it was too tight making it idle higher) that did the trick.. right after tho my motor mounts said fuck this shit we are done a week of smooth driving and then at every red light my lude started shaking like a leaf🫣
@@michaelpetersen6863 check ur idle air control valve too, had to replace that too
Its IAC valve. The V in IACV is for valve. Not really important I'm just pedantic and it bothered me, haha.
Thanks for listing screwing in the Idle air bypass screw as the last option. It's absolutely the last thing to do once you have confirmed no other issues exist. Way too many people are telling guys to just screw it in because thats what fixed their car and their friends car. Masking the real problem.
Thank you. You are right.
The chronological order is obviously incorrect. You need to interchange step 1&2 . Bleed the system after working on replacing the IAC valve,,, since hoses will be removed after pulling off the valve.
You're probably right.
So on my 2001 accord, I cleaned the throttle body, upper intake manifold and the top of the intake manifold holes, the iac valve and pcv valve and I replaced my O2 sensors as well because of a code and after I cleaned it all it started surging up and down. Im at a loss and my next guess would've been to clean the egr valve and egr passages. I'm not sure what else I need to do please help!
Does your Accord have a FIV? It will be by the throttle body. Also, is your coolant full? What about the line going to your brake booster? When did idle surge begin?
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I bought it second hand and apparently it's been happening for a while according to the previous owner. Since my comment I couldn't locate a FIV, I think in this generation they removed it. And I found damaged fuel injectors as well as seals so I have a good hunch that that may be the issue, thank you for your help and keep up the great videos 👌🏽 I'll keep you updated on how it goes ✌🏽
Damm i just bought a 2001 prelude. The idle jumps up and down, i got a iac code and a knock sensor code. While i was taking a look at the knock sensor i noticed the timing belt was loose i could almost slip it off by hand. Can a skipped timing be the cause of those codes and how bad the car idles?
Absolutely. The tensioner on your car in notorious for breaking. You should not be able to easily remove your belt. It might time for a timing belt replacement..
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers i appreciate your reply, thanks for it😃
Any time. Good luck.
I got a ‘lude too!!! What year is yours?? Mine’s a ‘99. Hoping one of your tips helps me!! Thanks! 👍🏾
Where did you get the delete plate from
I bought it off preludepower.com from a guy who made them. I think if you google "FIV block off plate" you will find some for 2nd Gen Integra's or Civic's from around the same time frame. I'm sure they will all fit. Or you could get some aluminum from Lowes or Home Depot and make your own.
Extreme Daily Drivers thanks man
I've seen dudes make them out of soda cans before. Pretty ghetto. But it works.
I have an 88 2.0si and want to fix the idle to
Need help I have a 91 Honda Accord ex do you have to back probe tps sensor I heard yes and no on it my rpm run good on idle but I hit gas and let off let idle for a bit then it dies
Yes, the tps has to be calibrated. Thanks for watching.
But my volt is 4.5 close and 0.5 open
were did you get that battery cover?!?! it looks sickkkk
Password JDM.
Your white vehicle looks like Eric the Car Guys vehicle
Can u make a video on all the stuff u can delete from the engine bc i dont like all that junk
I did.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers whats the video name or link
Search the Prelude Playlist.
Any link to the front strut bar your have in your engine? Been looking lol
They are rare. Just search on "88-91 Honda Prelude Cusco Strut Bar"
Hi just wondering what strut tower brace you're running?
Cusco. Thanks for watching!
Can you tell me where you found a new iacv valve ... I’ve searched everywhere in America for about a 3 hours now
Junkyard
Extreme Daily Drivers no shot at a new one huh lol
@@gixxa7500 Sure. Just call Honda up and tell them what you need for your Lude. 😂🤣
Extreme Daily Drivers fiiiine lol .... what about bucking ... drives amazing until after maybe a 20 min drive and warms up .... then bucks like a horse
@@gixxa7500 Check your fuel delivery.
Hi, is the b20a7 engine?
No, b21a1.
What causes this issue?
Watch the video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers okay i will. Im surprised because you replied all comments
@@matcentrino7602 I always do!
I cleaned the AIC valve and the problem went away !
1992 honda prelude iMac valve location????
gallant gallant on the throttle body that connects to intake
Man I have a 1993 Honda prelude in it ravva hight
Yeah, it's a pretty common issue.
Surging idle. Another cause i read is the intake manifold cracked or bad gasket
Yep. One of many possibilities.
My 05 scion xb does this at cold startups ...but stops after it warms up is this normal?
It’s basically witchcraft 😅
Facts.
why is my Miata doing Honda things
You are probably using the wrong oil. LOL
I see all your videos and I'm a big fan. I bought a 1991 Honda Prelude with the same B21A1 engine cause I wanted to get the same car as you and also because my first car was a 89 Prelude but single cam. I had a question for you hopefully you have the answer but I'm trying to find the specs on tightening the main bearings and connecting rods cause I'm rebuilding my engine. I'm hoping to also be a daily driver. I can send pictures of where I'm at right now maybe you can tip me on my process
When I was in Highschool I had just bought my prelude. Getting out of the backed up garage generated a lot of stares while my car ‘vMMMMMbrmmm-vMMMMMbrmmm-vMMMMbrmmm’d’. Took a look at this video and I never pulled out of that garage more confidently.
Mine ended up being a vacuum leak that was a hose under the intake manifold that disconnected when doing a head gasket
Did it surge at cold start and warm or just cold? Mine only surges after it warms up...
The more videos I watch the more things you can clean or replace, my Civic had 493000 KM and cleaned/replaced nothing.
I tried everything it ended up being the Fast idle Thermo valve it was letting too much air flow that caused it to surge only on park so it is important buddy I'm here in California and i also had a clogged coolant line form the fast idle Thermo valve to the IACV... deleting that valve gave me a low idle the car kept stalling on cold starts so I had to keep starting the car with the throttle fully open to keep it from stalling, once warm it idles normal so it does need the FITV. You are right on the IACV you don't need the coolant lines it's for freezing climate the problem with deleting that iacv line is that you have to reroute the coolant line that feeds the thermostat underneath the intake to the FITV. But you video was helpful but big mistake in deleting the FITV on the B20z4
Awesome video!! Thanks!!
Where do we get a block of plate for Fast Idle Valve?
What happened to your hair lol 😂
God, it's terrible in this video. It's actually bad in most of my videos. Hence, the hat I'm typically wearing. LOL. Thanks for watching.
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good you good teacher 👌☺️🙂🤠
Many many thanks!
My 1990 honda prelude Suddenly start jerking while driving please help 😊
Stop pumping the gas!
When I replaced my AIC due to low RPM almost dying, it did worked, but started fluctuating, I checked if anything was loose but no. After this, I replaced SITV speed idle thermo valve. It did work. But I did open the radiator cap ONLY. Didn't bleed it exactly. But it started again. Do you think this can be of a need of coolant bleed?
Sure. That's where I would start.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers yes it was that. It stopped now. Thanks
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥❤️
You killing me man 4:01 "It's basically witchcraft". Right on Brother Good Video!
Thanks for posting.
Witchcraft is my answer for everything. 🤣 Thanks for watching. 🙏
Thanks for the info, mean witchcraft info LOL
Did you have to take out the upper intake to take out the iac? Or is there a way to avoid all of that?
It depends on the vehicle. Good luck.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I have a 91 prelude too
@@victoracob2554 Then grab a wrench and get to work!
I wished you had made videos of the prelude build from the time you first got the car.
Me too!
How can i delete it like u did? Where can i get that block off plate?
Mine were custom. Just search on ebay for a block off plate for an Integra. I think it's the same size.
Honda prelude 2.0 X auto coupe 2 doors petrol 4 cylinder engine ( B20A44500427) I'm trying my best to give you complete information that's what I have I'm just requesting to help please help I love this car where is the air control sensor
a car guy whos says "it's witchcraft" lost my interest. skip it.
I'm a car guy who doesn't know everything. Sue me!
So it wasn't clear, but did you end up replacing your IACV? or just clean it? I'm thinking that's what might be wrong with mine since i've got a 70mm TB (no FITV) and Skunk2 IM
It was not the IACV. It was my intake manifold gasket installed incorrectly. If you think it's your IACV, remove it and make a block off plate with cardboard and tape and see if your idle improves.
I've got a good idle but once the car gets warm and coming to a stop the idle goes low and stalls out
Sounds like a leak in the brake booster.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers Mine does that too. I avoid the stall stopping 10 feet short and then driving up to the stop sign which bounces the rpms back up. I will check out my brake booster. Any specific part of it? This looked like an easy check ua-cam.com/video/LQj6jUn4-U0/v-deo.html
There is a vacuum line that leads to your brake booster. Make sure that it's not leaking. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers If it was leaking, I would probably hear a hiss wouldn't I? Thanks for responding.
@@MrShakamuni01 You might hear it, but I would run my hand along the hose and see if I feel air coming out or you could spray it with water and look for bubbles. The easiest way to rule it out it is to remove the hose at the intake and plug it up with your finger and see if the idle corrects itself. Good luck. It's a process. It took me hours to find mine mostly because I was being lazy about it.
I did most of everything you said in video except for the link paper Clip
Hi, Bradon I'm looking into purchasing a 1991 honda prelude si non 4ws. Been watching your vids to try and learn how to restore and make the car run or perform better so that it may last 10-20 years without costi g so much. I want to keep the engine stock. Could you list me all the new parts you put in and estimated cost?
OMG, that would be a depressing list! :) If you want to know about the parts I used, check out my build thread on preludepower.com. It's in the "Builds" section and it's "Samhain's ALB Build." Thanks for watching!
I’m thinking of purchasing a 97 prelude sh. Owner says it runs and drives perfect, but there’s a vaccumm leak he can’t find. Is it worth the purchase?
If there is a vacuum leak, it doesn't run perfect. They are lying.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers thank you. Also meaning it won’t pass smog. Looks like I have to keep searching! Thank you for the response
hey bro can you share the link to where you found the new IACV ????? can’t find a new one help me out please someone
Hey bro google it.
Second video i am watching were the gasket was the issue probably the same case for my car but how can you be sure; the bolts for the intake are difficult to get to
Just use the process of elimination just like I outline in the video. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
I have a 97 crv.wont start.turns over with no start. Has a new timing belt,plugs,fuel regulator,coil and cap. Re spidered fuel relay.cant set timing until I get car running. Tried the paperclip tonight no readings or codes with engine light. My fuel damper is leaking,along with my fuel filter.
All you need is fuel, air and spark. Make sure your timing belt isn't off a tooth. You don't need the car to run to install the belt properly. Good luck.
I have the same problem I replaced all sensors and the engine is like surging up and down like if you press the gas pedal and release it at the same time I don't know what to do no I have a Honda Civic 1998 DX sedan manual D16Y7
Get a fix on this yet? I have the SOHC D16y8 and it's been idling high and idle surging for weeks now. I've been troubleshooting non stop. CTS, TPS, burped coolant,new IACV,timing adjusted, injectors checked,no vacuum leaks, block tested. I've literally checked everything.
where did you get block off valve. and not sure how to delete part off the iACV. HELP . THANKS
I did a video on it. Search on my channel.
My daughter ran through a puddle of water on the highway and then started getting the bouncing idle on her 1999 honda accord. I bled the coolant system by elevating the front end of the car, opening the radiator cap, starting the car and idling the car at 3,000 rpm (with the heater on high) until I see the radiator fluid moving. I then shut the car off, let cool, and add coolant to the overflow bottle. I also replaced the Idle Air Control Valve with an off brand off of Amazon. I still get codes P0505 (idle control system) and P1457 (Evap Canister Solenoid)
If your code reader makes suggestions as what could cause these issues, keep trouble shooting the issue. If your code reader does give suggestions to fix the problem, buy this. amzn.to/3uLhtzI
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I had my eye on this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5RMFBG/?coliid=I1QHHPKHK54642&colid=1JPAFSGCOJOXU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it.
Don't know if its worth the extra $100 though.
@@nervousordo I doubt it. I love the one I linked. Great bang for your buck.
Do you have a link for the high-speed block-off plate? Other plates too? I think I saw you had more.
Hi Gebby, my block off plates are actually custom made. I bought them a fellow Luder. However, I think you could probably buy a FIV or EGR block off plate for a DA Integra or something similar and it would work. Thanks for watching!
Mine only surges when warm. If there was a vacuum leak, wouldn't it surge while cold start as well??? I can let it idle for at least 6 minutes and it is perfect! No surging at all until it's really warm!
fantastic video man. If I remember I'll come back an update if any of these fix my issue. I created a whole new playlist called car shitt on UA-cam and your videos the first one in it. Thanks again.
Awesome! So glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers Hey I fixes the problem and you're gonna facepalm at this... The radiator was... Empty.
@@cowbatboots282 LOL
hey what Fast Idle Valve block-off plate did you get? the ebay search is a little vague
Mine is custom. I think any B series plate will do.
I lucked out and bought a second hand IAC and it fixed my bounching idle. thanks for the video.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the tips. I am having that issue now with a 98 civic that has been sitting for 4years. Going to follow all the steps
You'll figure it out. I'm sure it's something simple.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers the weird thing is that if I put it into drive it goes away and drives fine. I took out and clean the throttle body and IAC and still surging.
@@obtugtxivtubhave you found a fix ? Same problem here
I have really high rpms on my 90 B21a ALB at about 40mph i'm already at 4k rpms. What could it be?
Is it an automatic?
No manual
Jesse Esquivel tps probably
Did you swap the engine? Which one did you put in?
Nope. Stock B21a
1992 honda prelude iac valve location????
It's on your intake.
I change my egr and clean my iac valve still had the same noise rep engine. Lastly I change spark plug and cap even rotor it stop the noise. All I need now is to drill and slide hammer that Six hole. Remove all the smoke carb built up over the years or rep engine gas. Need a hanger and vacuum to remove the carb muffler built up. Lastly cap the hole back up. No more idle issue especially if you got 156,000. Every prelude owner should do that by now. Every 50,000 miles a new change. Especially when you rep the rpm and the carb built up in the engine. Lastly all I will do now is brake carb clean tighten clockwise. The fast idle thermal valve and spray clean the inside. Make sure to turn every moving motor part with the brake carb. Everything should be fixed no more idling.
hello, mine does it only as long as the engine gets warm. than it stays completely at 750rpm. Do you have any guess? Also what happens is that on the first start the car dosnt want to start. it cranks and cranks. Then when i try again to start the engine it starts immediately without almost any cranking. This happens only if the car stands for a night and is ice cold. What causes this? Also I got white smoke comijgnfrom the exhaust if i push the engine revs a little higher to lets say 4000-5000 rpm. These are my two biggest problems. The car is completely repainted and looks beautiful. Will make a video on it. Just have to fix these problems.
Before cranking, try priming the tank. Put the key in the ACC position and wait 5 to 10 seconds and they try to start. Are you burning any oil?
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers i wait 5 second till i here the fuel pump relay(sorry dont know the exact term for it) and then i start. but it cranks..... iihihihihhihihi. nothing. on second key turn engine comes right up. But idle is bouncing as long it get warm. On the exhaust no blue fog is coming if i pump the pedal. "only" white fog comes out. Somewhere comes water in and gets burned. hope its not an engine damage.
@@johnwhite8985 Sounds like you might have several issues going on. Do a compression test and go from there. Good luck.
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers i see. with a compression test will i know if the engine is damaged?
@@johnwhite8985 Yes
😲Dam Bro I Miss that car sssoo much! I want my 91 prelude back!! 😫 Nice car Bro! Love the video it helped a lot! 😄😉🤘🏽🤙🏽😁🤜🏽🤛🏻😎
Where'd you get those headers! I've been looking for forever and I can't find any!
eBay. Thanks for watching!
Extreme Daily Drivers would you happen to have a link? I’ve spent hours looking on eBay and the whole internet, can’t find it.
@@OlsonAuto What do I get if I find one in two seconds?
Extreme Daily Drivers for a 2.1 prelude? Ill owe you my soul. I can get you another soul if you can help me fix my prelude too, since none of these fixes have been working.
I'll tell you what, you have to go over to extremedailydrivers.com and pick yourself up a rad shirt. How about that?
MORE PRELUDE VIDEOS!!!!
I'm working on one!
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers YAYYY!!!
My guage sits below the zero and dosnt move
my car has high idle but when I put in gear. it drops to normal wat could that be
Automatic or manual?
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers I have a manual that does the same thing. It won't go over 3000rpm either
Sounds like it's in limp mode or something. Is the check engine light on?
@@ExtremeDailyDrivers hey there I need your help I have the same exact problem with my nissan tiida start up with a high rpm 2000 every morning take about 15minutes to get by the correct idle I changed all park plug all coil pack EGR valve coolant temperature sensor and I all so cleaned the mass air flow sensor and it's the same problem dont know what to do else 😥 and there's no check engine light on
I'm sure you have a vacuum leak. Watch the video again for trouble shooting tips. Thanks for watching.
Get to the point!!!
No.