Had to address this with my GI about a yr ago.. All the sudden it was locking back after every shot. Took a moment to figure out, but once I realized what was happening.. I made the tiny divot on the slide release. Now it makes the slightest little click when pushed up with your thumb.. That's all it takes to keep it from flopping loosely in the wind.
In my opinion: Yeah, you got it. Improperly fit barrel links can cause the slide release lever to rotate back & forth hammering the slide & frame slot as well. Thanks for your contribution! ~ Cheers.
? Is there a benefit to the holes in that slide ? They don't look evenly spaced. I would think dirt could get in there. I see some new guns are doing it for looks, but I'm Leary of it. J M O.
In my opinion: The holes aren't perfectly spaced because it doesn't matter that they are. A slide with right hand ejection port takes a relaxed set in a shape of a C. When you have a used slide it will be impossible to have perfect lines. Most noticable when milled in all sorts of places. On a Colt slide such as this, their slides are never perfectly machined & have all sorts of irregular specifications passed off as character. Colt has never made a "perfect slide" or "perfect frame". The holes are necessary on a 9mm Government model being the 1911 was initially a 38 before becoming the famous 45ACP. That's why the barrel is so thin*** for the 45. 9mm has an extremely weak recoil pulse for the size of the Government model so full length guide rods shouldn't be used. The holes reduce slide mass relative to the weaker recoil pulse of the lesser caliber. That's also why 9mm Government models run no more than 15lb recoil springs. Additionally, the side holes help cool the barrel & displace heat that may mirage with the sight picture if done on the top like with the ported barrel slides. They should be round & not have jagged/square/trapezoid/angled corners because heat will migrate & saturate at/to the sharpest & thinnest areas causing the whole part to eventually warp. The overly millled trendy stuff you might see for Glock & Sig P320 will not last as well as one that isn't all cut out & thinned. I'd expect skeletonized slides would help with red dots that add more weight. Slide weight tunes the action with the correct inertia from the blow back action of the expended shell. Lighter slides are a very bad idea because the recoil spring would have to compensate for lack of reciprocating mass required to handle the blow back of the given caliber. Hope that helps you along your journeys. ~ Cheers.
In my opinion: The green is spurless & the gray one is an obsolete Warp Speed spurless by Cylinder & Slide. It saves on a lot of hammer hook wear & makes for a faster let off. Spurs kill trigger jobs.
This is great! Thanks for sharing this tip. I just picked up my first 1911 so I have a lot to learn.
A center punch works good too!
Had to address this with my GI about a yr ago.. All the sudden it was locking back after every shot. Took a moment to figure out, but once I realized what was happening.. I made the tiny divot on the slide release. Now it makes the slightest little click when pushed up with your thumb.. That's all it takes to keep it from flopping loosely in the wind.
In my opinion: Yeah, you got it.
Improperly fit barrel links can cause the slide release lever to rotate back & forth hammering the slide & frame slot as well.
Thanks for your contribution!
~ Cheers.
? Is there a benefit to the holes in that slide ? They don't look evenly spaced. I would think dirt could get in there. I see some new guns are doing it for looks, but I'm Leary of it. J M O.
In my opinion: The holes aren't perfectly spaced because it doesn't matter that they are. A slide with right hand ejection port takes a relaxed set in a shape of a C. When you have a used slide it will be impossible to have perfect lines. Most noticable when milled in all sorts of places. On a Colt slide such as this, their slides are never perfectly machined & have all sorts of irregular specifications passed off as character. Colt has never made a "perfect slide" or "perfect frame".
The holes are necessary on a 9mm Government model being the 1911 was initially a 38 before becoming the famous 45ACP. That's why the barrel is so thin*** for the 45. 9mm has an extremely weak recoil pulse for the size of the Government model so full length guide rods shouldn't be used. The holes reduce slide mass relative to the weaker recoil pulse of the lesser caliber. That's also why 9mm Government models run no more than 15lb recoil springs.
Additionally, the side holes help cool the barrel & displace heat that may mirage with the sight picture if done on the top like with the ported barrel slides. They should be round & not have jagged/square/trapezoid/angled corners because heat will migrate & saturate at/to the sharpest & thinnest areas causing the whole part to eventually warp. The overly millled trendy stuff you might see for Glock & Sig P320 will not last as well as one that isn't all cut out & thinned. I'd expect skeletonized slides would help with red dots that add more weight.
Slide weight tunes the action with the correct inertia from the blow back action of the expended shell.
Lighter slides are a very bad idea because the recoil spring would have to compensate for lack of reciprocating mass required to handle the blow back of the given caliber.
Hope that helps you along your journeys.
~ Cheers.
What's up with that hammer?
In my opinion: The green is spurless & the gray one is an obsolete Warp Speed spurless by Cylinder & Slide. It saves on a lot of hammer hook wear & makes for a faster let off. Spurs kill trigger jobs.
yeah...where's the hammer???
@@mohammedcohen In my opinion: It's there.
...is the C&S SFS system installed on this pistol???
In my opinion: What's an SFS?
go slow and start small and use a slow speed on your rotary tool and take your time this is not a job to do fast
Yes, thank you Edwin.