The new revised EGR NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED!!! Just do it at the dealership. Also they have an updated intake manifold too. But they have programs that covers either or Both. This is really important!
People are really ridiculous always assuming if it's rattling it's a blown head gasket! When this car misfires, it shakes and rattles. There's all sorts of things that can cause a misfire! An EGR system that isn't working correctly can cause this. If replacing a part such as the EGR valve fixed the rattle then clearly it isn't a blown head gasket. You'll know if it's a blown head gasket because you won't be able to put many more miles on the car before it's just not working at all.
Statistically speaking it usually is a head gasket. It's just a matter of time with the gen 3 Prius. The misfire will not persist like what the video shows though. Great car otherwise.
Hi, I know this video is A year old I had the same problem last week. I’m stuck another EGR valve on it and are you Star bolt got 12 min nut and A bolt with a star socket because I have tightened it under do the star, bolt not under do the 12 mil loose The star nut Loosen the 12 mil, then tighten 12 Mii up it’s because is touching the metal and it makes it rattling noise
Excellent video, my EGR valve has been making the engine judder for a few years now. I have found removing the black cover on the top with the two philips screws. Lubricating the spring and valve shaft and working it seems to prevent the problem from recurring for 12 months or so. I have got into the habit of lubricating regularly to stop the issue. Not sure if I will get away with doing this for as long as I have the car?
My 2010 Prius does this exact thing when turned on. It happened a few weeks after replacing the spark plugs. Is it a coincidence? Is there a chance its one of the spark plugs? Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching our channel If the right spark plugs are put, they last 40000 miles at least, i don't think it would be because of a spark plug. Check your EGR valve if it is stuck open.
Thanks for watching our channel, looking at the EGR valve condition I will not waste my time and customer money to put more effort and reuse this EGR valve i 100% recommend replacement.
While some of this may be true - I bought a 2012 Prius V brand new - and it would do this with less than 9 miles on the car. No carbon built up, etc. It's a fowled plug - and the "clutch plate" (spring plate) on the engine to electric drive connection rattles due to the uneven firing of the motor. This can happen when you start the engine cold - and shut it off right away - then restart a few moments later. Basically, like when the "choke" would be on - on a carbourated engine. I believe Toyota could tweak the fuel delivery and solve the issue. There are instances - where a blown head gasket will do this too - but again, that's because of coolant in the cylinder causing a misfire condition. I've also noticed - that in the US at least - there isn't much if anything that will turn the check engine light on - on the car. It also will do this when temps are in the 40s with high humidity - (light fog) situations... where the computer delivers "rich" fuel mixture due to ambient air and engine temp cold (choke condition) ... usually - shutting it off, waiting about 30 seconds and restarting will clear the issue - as a little heat accumulates in the intake from the initial start. then the issue goes away.
Great video and detail showing this experience! I've been wanting to remove my EGR as well and pressure wash to clean. That's easier and safer to do from what I read. Restoring potentially the EGR Valve without replacing I've read is more risky being that valve or something screws in and can be an issue with removing and installing alone (though I don't think how you did since didn't remove those philips head screws that I've purchased metric hex head stainless steel to replace when I do) and I forget if is like a screw actuated or electromagnetic... seems like screw, though that might be to adjust. I really do forget. I know I did plan to replace the PCV Valve and intake manifold gaskets when I clean that out as well since seems like the thing to do reading around and asking around. Amazing how these Gen 3's can go so long without maintenance and still get awesome gas mileage. I need to look underneath the plastic pans to see what might be stuck rattling or maybe the exhaust heat shields since somethings making a noise down under and I don't know what else would be otherwise since I don't think it's the break pads yet... sounds with the windows down noticing recently like underneath more passenger side... I think. Amazing how these consume oil as well when you don't replace the PCV Valve. Thanks for sharing sir!
@@DrumPeearl Actually, I haven't yet. I was hoping to find a salvage yard 50% off sale circuit (intake manifold, EGR Valve & Radiator) and clean then install that. Though post COVID the prices skyrocketed where I live and they get picked from the yards fast. I'm at ~275,000 miles on my 2013 Prius 2. I did notice oil being consumed more so I switched to Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 20,000 mile oil since has more detergents. I also make sure to keep the oil level always about 3/4 mark. That reduced the oil consumption significantly, though I still need the clean that EGR, PVC Valve and Intake circuit to prevent the oil seal rings on the pistons from gunking up. Might help the EGR Valve life cycle as well. I do need to one of these days and was planning to purchase another Gen3 so I can not worry about working on the other, though the seller hasn't replied. Hoping he didn't back out on me.
@@DrumPeearl I was almost going to invest in some Amsoil 100% Synthetic with their additive and run for a few oil changes as a way to clean the carbon from the oil seal rings... though didn't need to at least yet. Figured I'd mention that. Though if you're getting the symptoms noted in the video... and no coolant level change... and also like you apply the gas when sitting if making a slight rattle or you notice the rattle when low speed and slowly applying the throttle... then you really need to clean the circuit like I do. Guessing at least the intake manifold... though while at it the whole circuit really needs like every 100-150K miles from what I've read on priuschat website.
One item at the end of the scanner tool did not do was update the system to current data. The new EGR valve superceded the previous one and there should be an update for it (especially the car was in 2011, there were at least 4 batches of files updated for telling the ECU that the car is now updated and running with a newer parts). If you decide the replace the new parts, keep the old ones since there will be buyers in the market for old parts for their cars. I sold my intake, EGR and the cooler for about 150 (not cleaned) and offset my cost of the new parts.
I have a 2011 prius and my EGR, manifold, cooler are heavily gummed up with carbon I ran a tech stream at first it was check hybrid system. I cleaned out the bus because it had heavy corrosion on all the battery cell contacts. I let my car sit for about a month I’m cleaning all this I hope that will resolve my problem?? My car never did the sputtering choke before?? Now it completely turns off the engine and gives me a no engine start code along with check hybrid battery?? Any input is very helpful??
I had a similar issue. 2010 prius. Engin sounds like it runs for about 7 seconds but in reality its only cranking, MIL comes on p0390 i think for poor engine power, and check hybrid system on the dash. Turns out it was the fuel pump failed in my case.
Thanks for watching our channel Engine Control Unit will detect no exhaust flow through the EGR and will turn the MIL on, and the no exhaust flow DTC will store in the ecu and engine will go to limp mode home mode
Head gasket problems most likely causing the shaking , Complete egr system should be cleaned once a year as maintenance including intake manifold, Egr valve , Egr cooler, Throttle body, Also need to add a high quality oil catch can to avoid the Egr system clogging again.
If your Prius is not consuming coolant or overheating it's not the head gasket more likely spark plugs coils or egr , don't always assume it's a bad head gasket.
Excellent. Thank u sir. My 2010 prius . Is jerking like its fighting to breathe when the heating is high and full blast for 20 mins. Then sometimes its goes away if i off the heating. You think its EGR value ? If so shall i also buy egr valve PIPE?? Thank you & i have subscribed 🙏🏽
Thanks for watching and subscribing to our channel. The best way to check and diagnose the cause of the symptom, my case symptom led to the malfunction of the EGR valve but it is not always the case that yours would be the same as my case.
Now when you're doing that water test take the black cap off and turn the threads lefty loosey I think and it'll close up the valve and water should stop flowing same with the new one when you're showing the new one when you got it before you even show the box you see it's open water's going to go through that how you closed it for the test that you're getting ready to do I don't know You have to take the black cap off to turn the thing down to close
Okay, should you take the black cap off and turn or close it with screw driver after each time the vale is operated by the ecu ?Or should the valve get closed and seal itself after each time de energising by the ecu? The answer is clear when the valve is at rest ,it should be closed and sealed, if the valve is open, the engine will misfire and behave, when it idles during the cool morning or the engine at Operating temperature, like it does in the video.
I'm not sure that that plunger is spring loaded If you undo the two Phillips screws and withdraw the black part which is the motor housing then you can spin that thing that stuck open and you will see it thread in and out and open and close when the motor housing is together and it gets a signal it opens and closes that valve according to what the computer tells it to open so maybe you turn the car off and it's just at its last setting when you boot the car up it'll close the valve up or do whatever it does on startup I don't know exactly what the protocol is but mine look just like that I cleaned it up I took the motor housing off I looked for this plastic ramp that gets broken which I couldn't find and I turn the threaded rod in and out to see that it works when it's turned by the motor and it turned very freely put it all back together I'm pretty sure it's working but I have no way of knowing whether it's open or closed I think in text software from Toyota I can see in the freeze frame data but I haven't really looked I know I can see the flow measured in HG of EGR going to the intake manifold
Thanks for watching our channel. Any EGR valve whent it is at rest should be closed and sealed completely, either by the spring or by the magnetic field force.
It can be clearly seen from the video that the cause of the fault is that the thimble in the valve body has not been reset. You only need to open the black plastic box and turn the magnet clockwise to reset the thimble. There is a stepping motor inside.
Thanks for watching our channel, I later dismantled as i through the same, but unfortunately the valve was siezed in its guide, after thoroughly cleaning the valve, valve was still not sealing the valve seat properly, this valve operates with the armature surrounded by permanent magnets, when the current flows through the armature loops, the EGR valve is activated and moves forward by the threaded extended shaft at the tail (end) of the armature, when the EGR valve is deactivated the spring loaded, threaded shaft moves by the threads backwards and seals the valve seat it self, so, there's no need for any force to move the valve backwards to its rest position, when this cycle fails to happen the EGR assembly must be replaced.
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak In a permanent magnet motor, the rotor is not free to move and cannot be reset by the the spring, so the initial position of the plunger must be ensured when the motor is assembled correctly.
@lixin young the magnetic flux of the permanent magnets will only affect the armature to move forward when there is current flow through the armature loops, the permanent magnets force cannot move the armature if the current doesn't flow through the armature loops, and the armature will return to its rest position by the compressed spring located at the end of the armature threaded shaft, the position of the valve is controlled by PWM pulse width modulation signal. The valve plunger acts in the same way as the starter motor solenoid. The only difference is that the position of the EGR valve is controlled by the ECU pulse width modulatin signals.
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak Unfortunately, I tried various tests and the spring were unable to move the rotor back to the rest position. This may be a design flaw of the Prius.
The carbon build up caused the EGR valve to be stuck open and even after cleaning it was still stuck open, so it needed to be replaced as it was damaged. Because of this, too much exhaust gas was being recirculated into the engine. As a result, all this excess air caused the engine to knock as the fuel air mixture is wrong.
Do you know what the intercooler is? And can you tell me where is it fitted on this vehicle ? You know nothing about the structure of this engine fitted on this vehicle, intercooler comes with the engines who have turbo charger, can you tell if this prius has engine with turbo? The answer is clear they don't have turbo so, when the don't have turbo installed on them, how can they have intercoolers. get lost.
The new one is not open, as i told you in the previous comment EGR valve at rest or none energised condition should all the time be at close or sealed position.
Thanks for watching our channel. In this video it is not the blown head gasket, but it is actually the EGR valve itself and it has stuck open and exhaust returns from the exhaust flow enters the combustion chamber reduces the oxygen level entering the combustion chember causing Misfire and shaking, rattling the engine.
you r struggling How to explain the mater you don't need to change the valve use WD40 and leave it 20 minutes and take teeth brush and clean it as i did it
As someone who had to replace the head gasket & EGR cooler on my Prius, I 100% recommend not wasting your time with cleaning the valve or cooler. Replace them. I also tried to clean out the EGR ports on my intake manifold and they clogged not even a year later. I spent so much time on that, it’s best to replace it. I’m getting a shaking engine when idling and low-throttle conditions because the intake manifold is clogged. There’s apparently a new intake manifold design, I’m hoping it won’t clog as quickly as the original.
This guy is correct for the most part but he is wrong in the end. The plunger is stuck open due to the gunk and doesn’t need replacement. It’s needs to be cleaned. There’s nothing much that can go wrong by design unless the solenoid that controls the plunger going in/out malfunctions and needs replacement. Watch the video below before your consider replacing with a new EGR valve. ua-cam.com/video/BuU7HKITbUI/v-deo.htmlsi=nlQsXtLIYgjMUJSg
Same problem happened to my 2012 Prius. Problems solved after the mechanic replaced the ignition coil and spark plugs.
Same but mine recently came back after only 20 thousand kilometres
At what milage did it start?
Great video this is the only one I found that shows how to remove the EGR without removing the intercooler. Thank you 🙏😁
The new revised EGR NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED!!! Just do it at the dealership. Also they have an updated intake manifold too. But they have programs that covers either or Both. This is really important!
People are really ridiculous always assuming if it's rattling it's a blown head gasket! When this car misfires, it shakes and rattles. There's all sorts of things that can cause a misfire! An EGR system that isn't working correctly can cause this. If replacing a part such as the EGR valve fixed the rattle then clearly it isn't a blown head gasket. You'll know if it's a blown head gasket because you won't be able to put many more miles on the car before it's just not working at all.
thanks for watching our channel
😅
blown head gasket will be consuming coolant and pressurizing coolant system.
Statistically speaking it usually is a head gasket. It's just a matter of time with the gen 3 Prius. The misfire will not persist like what the video shows though. Great car otherwise.
EARLY GEN 3 HAD A RECALL FOR THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
IT ACTUALLY CAN RUN BACKWARDS FROM A COLD START.
TURN OFF QUICKLY
WAIT.
START AGAIN
Very very good video, I love the fact that you put genuine parts 👍👍 keep it up please I am learning from every video that you make thanks alot
Thank you so much for your support 🙏
Hi, I know this video is A year old I had the same problem last week. I’m stuck another EGR valve on it and are you Star bolt got 12 min nut and A bolt with a star socket because I have tightened it under do the star, bolt not under do the 12 mil loose The star nut Loosen the 12 mil, then tighten 12 Mii up it’s because is touching the metal and it makes it rattling noise
Great job and Great video this is the only one I found that shows the cause of Rattling hybrid engine . Thank you so much
Thanks for watching our channel ☺️
Excellent video, my EGR valve has been making the engine judder for a few years now. I have found removing the black cover on the top with the two philips screws. Lubricating the spring and valve shaft and working it seems to prevent the problem from recurring for 12 months or so. I have got into the habit of lubricating regularly to stop the issue. Not sure if I will get away with doing this for as long as I have the car?
Thanks for watching our channel.
If so, you'll be lucky,☺️
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak What type and size of socket is needed to remove the stud holding the egr to the head?
@@Scrummy21
E8
My 2010 Prius does this exact thing when turned on. It happened a few weeks after replacing the spark plugs. Is it a coincidence? Is there a chance its one of the spark plugs? Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching our channel
If the right spark plugs are put, they last 40000 miles at least, i don't think it would be because of a spark plug. Check your EGR valve if it is stuck open.
You can also remove the elbow off the egr to clean the inside as well that's why the pintle is stuck open most likely dirty inside.
Thanks for watching our channel, looking at the EGR valve condition I will not waste my time and customer money to put more effort and reuse this EGR valve i 100% recommend replacement.
100% recommend replacement every year then?
@@bluesteele2235 It want get dirty and clogged up that soon if you keep your oil changed and other maintenance up to date.
I use Lucas fuel system lubricant every fill_up...no problems 105,000 miles. Also no oil burning. Amsoil twice a year.
While some of this may be true - I bought a 2012 Prius V brand new - and it would do this with less than 9 miles on the car. No carbon built up, etc. It's a fowled plug - and the "clutch plate" (spring plate) on the engine to electric drive connection rattles due to the uneven firing of the motor. This can happen when you start the engine cold - and shut it off right away - then restart a few moments later. Basically, like when the "choke" would be on - on a carbourated engine. I believe Toyota could tweak the fuel delivery and solve the issue.
There are instances - where a blown head gasket will do this too - but again, that's because of coolant in the cylinder causing a misfire condition. I've also noticed - that in the US at least - there isn't much if anything that will turn the check engine light on - on the car. It also will do this when temps are in the 40s with high humidity - (light fog) situations... where the computer delivers "rich" fuel mixture due to ambient air and engine temp cold (choke condition) ... usually - shutting it off, waiting about 30 seconds and restarting will clear the issue - as a little heat accumulates in the intake from the initial start. then the issue goes away.
Great video and detail showing this experience! I've been wanting to remove my EGR as well and pressure wash to clean. That's easier and safer to do from what I read. Restoring potentially the EGR Valve without replacing I've read is more risky being that valve or something screws in and can be an issue with removing and installing alone (though I don't think how you did since didn't remove those philips head screws that I've purchased metric hex head stainless steel to replace when I do) and I forget if is like a screw actuated or electromagnetic... seems like screw, though that might be to adjust. I really do forget. I know I did plan to replace the PCV Valve and intake manifold gaskets when I clean that out as well since seems like the thing to do reading around and asking around. Amazing how these Gen 3's can go so long without maintenance and still get awesome gas mileage. I need to look underneath the plastic pans to see what might be stuck rattling or maybe the exhaust heat shields since somethings making a noise down under and I don't know what else would be otherwise since I don't think it's the break pads yet... sounds with the windows down noticing recently like underneath more passenger side... I think. Amazing how these consume oil as well when you don't replace the PCV Valve. Thanks for sharing sir!
Thanks for watching our channel 😊
Hey!Have you ever done the cleaning on the parts ? If so, how many miles and what milage had your Prius when you did it ? What's about today ?
@@DrumPeearl Actually, I haven't yet. I was hoping to find a salvage yard 50% off sale circuit (intake manifold, EGR Valve & Radiator) and clean then install that. Though post COVID the prices skyrocketed where I live and they get picked from the yards fast. I'm at ~275,000 miles on my 2013 Prius 2. I did notice oil being consumed more so I switched to Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 20,000 mile oil since has more detergents. I also make sure to keep the oil level always about 3/4 mark. That reduced the oil consumption significantly, though I still need the clean that EGR, PVC Valve and Intake circuit to prevent the oil seal rings on the pistons from gunking up. Might help the EGR Valve life cycle as well.
I do need to one of these days and was planning to purchase another Gen3 so I can not worry about working on the other, though the seller hasn't replied. Hoping he didn't back out on me.
@@DrumPeearl I was almost going to invest in some Amsoil 100% Synthetic with their additive and run for a few oil changes as a way to clean the carbon from the oil seal rings... though didn't need to at least yet. Figured I'd mention that.
Though if you're getting the symptoms noted in the video... and no coolant level change... and also like you apply the gas when sitting if making a slight rattle or you notice the rattle when low speed and slowly applying the throttle... then you really need to clean the circuit like I do. Guessing at least the intake manifold... though while at it the whole circuit really needs like every 100-150K miles from what I've read on priuschat website.
One item at the end of the scanner tool did not do was update the system to current data. The new EGR valve superceded the previous one and there should be an update for it (especially the car was in 2011, there were at least 4 batches of files updated for telling the ECU that the car is now updated and running with a newer parts).
If you decide the replace the new parts, keep the old ones since there will be buyers in the market for old parts for their cars. I sold my intake, EGR and the cooler for about 150 (not cleaned) and offset my cost of the new parts.
I have a 2011 prius and my EGR, manifold, cooler are heavily gummed up with carbon I ran a tech stream at first it was check hybrid system. I cleaned out the bus because it had heavy corrosion on all the battery cell contacts. I let my car sit for about a month I’m cleaning all this I hope that will resolve my problem?? My car never did the sputtering choke before?? Now it completely turns off the engine and gives me a no engine start code along with check hybrid battery?? Any input is very helpful??
Did you ever resolve this? Please reply -- I am also a 2011 Prius owner going through this repair.
I had a similar issue. 2010 prius. Engin sounds like it runs for about 7 seconds but in reality its only cranking, MIL comes on p0390 i think for poor engine power, and check hybrid system on the dash. Turns out it was the fuel pump failed in my case.
Very good job where about is your base??
So, what happens if u leave that plate u installed to diagnose with on, that blocks exhaust fumes from entering intake manifold? Permanently?
Thanks for watching our channel
Engine Control Unit will detect no exhaust flow through the EGR and will turn the MIL on, and the no exhaust flow DTC will store in the ecu and engine will go to limp mode home mode
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak well ain't that a bit!ch !
Head gasket problems most likely causing the shaking , Complete egr system should be cleaned once a year as maintenance including intake manifold, Egr valve , Egr cooler, Throttle body, Also need to add a high quality oil catch can to avoid the Egr system clogging again.
If your Prius is not consuming coolant or overheating it's not the head gasket more likely spark plugs coils or egr , don't always assume it's a bad head gasket.
@@bobbyz23100
@@bobbyz23 how do you know if it is overheating?
@@Campbellclan4ever rising temperatures or white steam coming from tailpipe
So what exactly causes the egr to clog up like this? Ty
Thanks for watching our channel.
EGR valve plunger carbonisation,component mechanical failure, electrical failure
I get it the EGR valve is stuck open. No need to test it 3 ways to Sunday. Install the new one and move on.
Excellent. Thank u sir. My 2010 prius . Is jerking like its fighting to breathe when the heating is high and full blast for 20 mins. Then sometimes its goes away if i off the heating.
You think its EGR value ? If so shall i also buy egr valve PIPE??
Thank you & i have subscribed 🙏🏽
Thanks for watching and subscribing to our channel. The best way to check and diagnose the cause of the symptom, my case symptom led to the malfunction of the EGR valve but it is not always the case that yours would be the same as my case.
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak do u do any repairs within London?
Now when you're doing that water test take the black cap off and turn the threads lefty loosey I think and it'll close up the valve and water should stop flowing same with the new one when you're showing the new one when you got it before you even show the box you see it's open water's going to go through that how you closed it for the test that you're getting ready to do I don't know You have to take the black cap off to turn the thing down to close
Okay, should you take the black cap off and turn or close it with screw driver after each time the vale is operated by the ecu ?Or should the valve get closed and seal itself after each time de energising by the ecu? The answer is clear when the valve is at rest ,it should be closed and sealed, if the valve is open, the engine will misfire and behave, when it idles during the cool morning or the engine at Operating temperature, like it does in the video.
I'm not sure that that plunger is spring loaded If you undo the two Phillips screws and withdraw the black part which is the motor housing then you can spin that thing that stuck open and you will see it thread in and out and open and close when the motor housing is together and it gets a signal it opens and closes that valve according to what the computer tells it to open so maybe you turn the car off and it's just at its last setting when you boot the car up it'll close the valve up or do whatever it does on startup I don't know exactly what the protocol is but mine look just like that I cleaned it up I took the motor housing off I looked for this plastic ramp that gets broken which I couldn't find and I turn the threaded rod in and out to see that it works when it's turned by the motor and it turned very freely put it all back together I'm pretty sure it's working but I have no way of knowing whether it's open or closed I think in text software from Toyota I can see in the freeze frame data but I haven't really looked I know I can see the flow measured in HG of EGR going to the intake manifold
Thanks for watching our channel.
Any EGR valve whent it is at rest should be closed and sealed completely, either by the spring or by the magnetic field force.
How much do you charge for a job like this one? I gotta do it and also take out intake manifold and clean it
Are you sure that your car's problem is the same as this one?
Yes to both questions
Excellent video
Thanks for watching our channel 😊
What scanner are you using ?
Autel,
It can be clearly seen from the video that the cause of the fault is that the thimble in the valve body has not been reset. You only need to open the black plastic box and turn the magnet clockwise to reset the thimble. There is a stepping motor inside.
Thanks for watching our channel,
I later dismantled as i through the same, but unfortunately the valve was siezed in its guide, after thoroughly cleaning the valve, valve was still not sealing the valve seat properly, this valve operates with the armature surrounded by permanent magnets, when the current flows through the armature loops, the EGR valve is activated and moves forward by the threaded extended shaft at the tail (end) of the armature, when the EGR valve is deactivated the spring loaded, threaded shaft moves by the threads backwards and seals the valve seat it self, so, there's no need for any force to move the valve backwards to its rest position, when this cycle fails to happen the EGR assembly must be replaced.
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak In a permanent magnet motor, the rotor is not free to move and cannot be reset by the the spring, so the initial position of the plunger must be ensured when the motor is assembled correctly.
@lixin young the magnetic flux of the permanent magnets will only affect the armature to move forward when there is current flow through the armature loops, the permanent magnets force cannot move the armature if the current doesn't flow through the armature loops, and the armature will return to its rest position by the compressed spring located at the end of the armature threaded shaft, the position of the valve is controlled by PWM pulse width modulation signal. The valve plunger acts in the same way as the starter motor solenoid. The only difference is that the position of the EGR valve is controlled by the ECU pulse width modulatin signals.
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak Unfortunately, I tried various tests and the spring were unable to move the rotor back to the rest position. This may be a design flaw of the Prius.
Will Lucas fuel additive solve this issue?
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In my case, it was jammed, and I replaced it with a new one.
Good job Amigo 👍
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Everytime the egr valve is stuck you have to replace it, better to replace the car because of the faulty design
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could you please share your shop location?
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Stanhope Auto Repair Centre
07906 146413
maps.app.goo.gl/ALosm12dfrgRo72e7
Good job
Thanks for your support
yikes !
thanks
COOP
...
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Blows my mind that this thing isn’t throwing any codes for misfire…..
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Prius 2006 have EGR??? Reply me
No
Ok thank u😊❤😊
So what was the problem?
Watch the video, please.
The carbon build up caused the EGR valve to be stuck open and even after cleaning it was still stuck open, so it needed to be replaced as it was damaged. Because of this, too much exhaust gas was being recirculated into the engine. As a result, all this excess air caused the engine to knock as the fuel air mixture is wrong.
Next time if you saw the valve is stuck you need to clean and flash intercooler and intake manifold and PVC valve 2 please thank you
Do you know what the intercooler is?
And can you tell me where is it fitted on this vehicle ? You know nothing about the structure of this engine fitted on this vehicle, intercooler comes with the engines who have turbo charger, can you tell if this prius has engine with turbo? The answer is clear they don't have turbo so, when the don't have turbo installed on them, how can they have intercoolers. get lost.
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for watching our channel ☺️
Amazing
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See even the new EGR valve is open
The new one is not open, as i told you in the previous comment EGR valve at rest or none energised condition should all the time be at close or sealed position.
👍👍
Thanks for watching
The misfire from blown head gasket
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In this video it is not the blown head gasket, but it is actually the EGR valve itself and it has stuck open and exhaust returns from the exhaust flow enters the combustion chamber reduces the oxygen level entering the combustion chember causing Misfire and shaking, rattling the engine.
you r struggling How to explain the mater you don't need to change the valve use WD40 and leave it 20 minutes and take teeth brush and clean it as i did it
You talk rubbish this is not asia,Afghanistan, or pakistan, faulty EGR valve must be replaced according to the manufacturer specifications
As someone who had to replace the head gasket & EGR cooler on my Prius, I 100% recommend not wasting your time with cleaning the valve or cooler. Replace them.
I also tried to clean out the EGR ports on my intake manifold and they clogged not even a year later. I spent so much time on that, it’s best to replace it. I’m getting a shaking engine when idling and low-throttle conditions because the intake manifold is clogged.
There’s apparently a new intake manifold design, I’m hoping it won’t clog as quickly as the original.
Your address?
maps.app.goo.gl/53aWYLMZJ5Q5tKGS7
This guy is correct for the most part but he is wrong in the end. The plunger is stuck open due to the gunk and doesn’t need replacement. It’s needs to be cleaned. There’s nothing much that can go wrong by design unless the solenoid that controls the plunger going in/out malfunctions and needs replacement.
Watch the video below before your consider replacing with a new EGR valve.
ua-cam.com/video/BuU7HKITbUI/v-deo.htmlsi=nlQsXtLIYgjMUJSg