DIY Metal Roofing Installation, Basic How-To Video
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- In this video I'm installing some metal roofing over an existing ash-fault shingled roof. This is not a complete install only basic install on a bungalow, I'm not showing how to install in valleys, dormers around chimneys or installing pipe flashing, trims, flashing, gable trims etc. Please check out other peoples videos here on UA-cam for more information.
The steal I installed in this video are 3 foot wide panels, 29 gauge. Cost of installing metal depends on many factors, if you remove your old layers of shingles to install new ash-fault shingles you will have to pay for disposal of the old shingles, always factor that into your quot. For myself in the end metal is only a couple of hundred dollars more, also less labor to install and much faster to install. Screws are installed into the flat areas that's how the manufactures install them.
I am not a roofer. This is just a DIY install on "my cottage roof", always follow the code in your area and speak with a professional metal installer.
Thanks for Watching Please Subscribe @kurtscottage many new projects on the channel. Peace out
To all the experts, I'm in Florida and my metal roof was installed in a similar fashion, no ridge vent (gable vents), basic drip edge on gables (obviously under metal), screws on flat part of metal (ridges on overlap), and directly on top of 2 layers of old shingles in 2004. It is now 2016 and we have been through no less than 6 hurricanes, countless tropical storms, and a thousand of thunderstorms. We have zero leaks. Good video for a DIY'er
Lawn Rescue Now that made be feel a lot better about this whole thing love the rely and video
Lawn Rescue
Same here, it works.
Ameteurs always over engineer with their own fear based ideas.
this is good to know i livein davie and my roof is shit and leaking horribly all over the metal is al lbent in and messed up so i think im gonna do the strips and the sheets over those.. i have no gable really its a rounded kind of peak... 14 by 56 trailer.. wonder how much it will cost me to do it myself and i probably will have no help. heh truly doin it myself.. cant finish inside til ifix roof and cant sell house til roof is fixed.. glad thisi s a good way to do it
Thanks for that. I am going to install one just like this on my buddy's garage in St. Pete. Great to know this!
Thanks
My 50 year old shed roof is finally leaking and you sir have given me the confidence to put a metal roof on it. Thanks!
Man you said you was not a professional ,but you work way better than many so called proffesionals ..well ,clean ,perfect job..👍👍👍👍
Keep in mind that a professional is just a person being paid for a service. Like when an amateur or an Olympic athlete turns pro by getting payed to play. It doesn't necessarily mean they are the best, good or even know anything about a particular service. Many home owner DIYers do much better work than most so called professionals.
This book is Awesome! I love the Lean-To-Shed the most (page 98). The plan ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR is to attach it to the back of my brick house. I also like how they walk you through the many different steps of construction, which is important for the less experienced like me.
Is it digital book or physical book?
I was just quoted $14,000 to have a metal roof installed. Local metal roofing supply quoted $3000 for material. Looks like I’ll be doing it myself 😂 my house is only 1500 sqft. That’s insane! $3000 and some sweat sounds much better!
please! Your ass is spoiled. My 300 sqft roof in Blaine Wa was quoted for $11,800, $14,250, and $17,110....and thats for SHINGLE ROOF! You better take that offer!
@@geraldpatterson3903 Someone was flat out trying to rip you off.
Do not just go with the cheapest quote! Oftentimes, good and honest roofers will put their sign in front of someone's yard. You can see an example of their work.
Haha, You and me both!
We did it ourselves and we follow the video it work great
@TammiLutz how did it go? Thinking of doing the same
Short and to the point. Better then a pro I've seen here.
A word of advice.. On your gable edges, install a screw every 6" along the gable ends, not just every 24".. If you have a screw every 24" along the gable edge, wind will lift that edge.. and over time pull on the screws and damage the rubber washer seals. Leaking will damage the lath, and your screws will pull out.
Thanks, I live in high wind, blizzards and high snow level. Do roof this summer.
Lee Smith thanks
Good video! Helpful hint. Screw down the first sheet. Use course threaded stitch screws and mastic and join three sheets where they overlap only. Now they are like a big accordion. Get the overhang that you want on the bottom of the farthest sheet. Screw it down at that location. Now screw them all down and do it again. Periodically check the distance to the other end of the roof to make sure one end is not getting ahead of the other. I always stack drill with a small drill bit about four sheets at a time on the ground before putting them on the roof. This makes for a stress free perfect job for me.
Hello Ray, mind explaining this a bit more? I didn't get it. I like the idea of pre-drilling the sheets while still on the ground for ease of use later but the mastic and accordion?
Thank you sir for the video I started on my metal roof this week have finished 3/4 of the front stripped off my shingles put down tar paper and put down my metal roof so far it looks wonderful thank you so much for your inspiration. My roof and home is 30 years old I had to replace some plyboard around the drip edges that's just the manufacturer's fault but at least it's repaired now you did a great job showing how to get started your video gave me more confidence to attempt to do this thank you so much for the video. I finished my double wide mobile home it looked very good this video was a great help has not leaked so far been two months had 60mph wind this weekend all is still secure.😊
Not
I know the video is old but I had to thank you for this. I followed everything and my roof came out amazing.
your video is way better than most of the professional videos. very helpful!
I have a section of my carport that is shingles and it’s only roughly 14’x16’ that needs metal roofing but this video definitely helped me. I’ve never done roofing before and although it’s a small area I’d hate to mess it up because we own the place and we want it to look nice. So thank you for the video.
You helped me more than any other video idk why anyone would do a dislike. I've been roofing all my life you did well
First useful video for this type of installation for the DIYer I’ve seen. Thanks.
Great video !! I would add that if you want a functioning ridge vent you should remove the asphalt ridge caps to open it up so you get the circulation needed ...it looks like the cap underneath gets closed by the strapping
I did my roof 48 by 16 feet , similar to this one . The roof was sound, rot-free and level , so I chose not to use strapping . I scraped off any humps in the oid shingles and swept clean , then put down an underlayment , which apparently seals the screw holes when you screw in the metal. I really could find no good reason for using strapping , and the manufacturer says it is optional on resurfaced residential roofs. They even have a more expensive metal style which has hidden screw seams for which they specifically state do not strap . Pre-drilling the screw holes while the panels are stacked evenly on the ground is ESSENTIAL , and will save you much time when lining up and screwing the panels on the roof . Screws in the top of the rib are recommended in Canada.
Thank you, sir, for the brilliant idea of pre-drilling the holes on the lined up panels. I think you just saved me many, many hours of work and the frustration of having screws pop off my screw gun as i try to force them through the sheet metal. I also agree about skipping the strapping if the roof is in reasonable shape still.
Super easy to follow along with. My mom loves the ashtray I made for her.
This has given me what I need to know to do my roof and I am confident you have shown me enough I can do it well. Thank you for this
I don't usually comment but great video. You explained really well.
Id pay big bucks to hear this guy say " Dont cha know"
Thank you. My friend is going to have to do a DIY roof install (roof is leaking but he can't afford a contractor) so this is very helpful. Will have to see if the store has the gable trim and foam trim available for the ridge caps. Not sure what brand of metal roofing, but I'll have to ask the guy tomorrow so we can see if there are installation videos or instructions somewhere. We know he needs the rake trim.
I done this . It’s pretty straightforward and looks great . I did not want to pay a contractor a arm and leg either .
really enjoyed this! I'm thinking about installing metal on my shed and I found your info very helpful. Thanks for the video!
chess just finished my metal n my shed the gable trim is where I needed direction on the cuts angles etc you ll love the look
Me too, i have a little barn n I want a red metal roof, best of luck on ur project
My husband drank two beers taking a drink every time Mr. Fix-it said "basically". LOL However, this was a helpful video and glad he took the time to make it.
On the ridge cap you need to be sure to put the screws through the foam , and only tighten it until there’s 1/8th inch gap between the ridge cap and your panels so you don’t over tighten and cause your ridgecap to have waves in it and it keeps your foam from blowing out if the screws are put through the foam closures.
To square your panels you can run a string line at the eave edge 1 1/2” inch from the edge of the roof then you can lay the panel until it touches the string and you know they are all even and straight when you’re looking up from underneath.
Joe Jones thank ya ~ we did deal s @ cost on elder handicap & found this tip Very Helpful
@JustCallMeLiberty I am glad to know it helped one person! I did a roof by myself for a disabled Vietnam veteran after hurricane Michael he was literally being rained on in his house insurance only paid X amount but the roofer was going to charge $17,000 more than the cost. So I told him about the metal cost and he ordered it and I did the roof for him. Saved him $17,000 plus labor
Great video. I already have two metal roofs on structures and they are great. Lain on top of shingles with the 1 x 4's. Great job on video, make some more!
Thanks. Very informative and well done. Your explanations of the details makes this an exceptional video. Take care.
I find predrilling helps a lot and ensures a straight line of screw heads. Also you should never strap part way across the roof then start adding your roofing because you need to straight line your strapping from gabble to gabble to take out any sag or humps your roof might have. This is done by using shims on the strapping until you get it straight on both planes horizontal and vertical. Otherwize your roof will show the issues more than it did with shingles. I have seen rooves shimmed over four inches straightened to look like they were perfect. Then the grey elephant in the room screws on the ribs ir the valleys. Different manufacturers say different things so follow their directions so you have the best chance of warranty if needed. The supplier I use locally suggest on the ribs. Who am I to argue after 20 years following his recommendations, Note he bends his own roofinging panels buying massive roles of flat stock in every colour he carries. He makes and sells tens of millions of dollars worth of steel a year. Same goes for the companies who tell you to fasten theirs in the valleys, it's their product follow their instructions whichever way they tell you.
About to install on my project house and forgot how I used to do this. Great video reminder on the basics!!! Also your voice reminds me of my super secret conspiracy friend that is always high but also a bit manic. So I felt at home watching and listening ;)
You did a good job! The only things I would do different is a moisture barrier and maybe add some foam board. Also leaving air gaps in your slats will aid with airflow Condensation will drip onto the old roof.
This was a really good video, you are a great teacher
Very well explained, and all the tips on keeping things square. I could see myself unscrewing several holes, wasted panels ect. Thank You. The Snowman.
did metal roofing for 15 yrs. owned my own company. in 15 yrs only had 5 call backs so yes, i do consider myself a professional. never would i ever have done this this way. neat job i guess buy many flaws...good job my friend i will not knock a mans work that does it himself.
DIY advice, Put your screws in the ridge on the siding and clean the shavings before you set the screws, The shavings will rust and stain your roofing plus they could also prevent the rubber washer from sealing, Good Video...
Good job man! For me you’re the best....Nice teaching!!!!!!!!!!
Best dyi video on UA-cam.... Well Done!!!!
Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive watch anything like this before. So good to find any individual with some authentic thoughts on this subject. realy thank you for beginning this up. this youtube video is one thing thats needed on the youtube, somebody with a bit of originality. useful job for bringing something new to the youtube!
Thank you, this video has been very informative! You did a great job.
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it 👍 glad you found it informative
You are a great entertainer, I learned a great deal.
This guy is better then a real roofer
Outstanding video for Roof Over Shingle.
Very good.
Only difference for me is I started strapping at the bottom and work up. That way I make my own safety steps to walk on as I go up.
Same thing really.
Walking on that roof for maintenance in the future without bending the metal will be interesting . Also, ordering metal with ribs that screw down on the edges and then have the rib shaping over the screwed edge is better because the screws are completely hidden.
Yeah, I agree that’s a concern of mine too with this install.
Nice video alot of people putting it down because of where you put your screws thay go on the flats ppl your right for what your doing if you were using nails thay go on the ridges I'm a red seal carpenter that was in my 2nd year and that's what it says in the books
Best video I've seen thank you!
Just my 2 cents but the gable trim should be over the sheeting not under and you should always start your installation with the bottom piece first and over lap the next piece at lease an inch. (water runs down and could go under if not done properly) Also in the northern parts of the U.S. and in Canada, if you don't have any gable vents or if the roof is Hip. you must vent at the top ridge, but it's one or the other can't have both.
always put the screw on the top of the ribs!! Do not put in the trough, will leak because the screws will back out from heat and cooling. Ive been installing metal roofs since 1973. We used to use nail with washers and always on the tops of the ribs!!!!
that was my question. why am I seeing people install in low flute??? I always thought fasten through ribs and into your strap/sheathing
Those straps should be angled to promote air to flow under the metal and keep it dry. The other reason it should be angled is do if there was water ingress it would flow down to get out and not puddle between the straps.
They also should have put bubble insulation or underlayment to help with condensation
THANKS FOR BEING DETAILED AND THOROUGH.
you sound like your on a secret mission....and the shades man!
+Tyrone Alwin.... Great Sherlock that’s why he made a youtube video cause it's a SECRET shhhh!!! lol
Tyrone ##3. Alwin ,qd
Tyrone Alwin w
He must be a “mason” and doesn’t want to be caught giving info away for free
Domtek installation instructions don't tell you to put the narrow end over the fat end for overlapping sheets. I'm glad I watched your video. I also watched another video that showed how the sheets get overlapped. You did it right.
That doesn't look too hard nice video I need to replace my roof and I don't want to spend too much I have a very simple roof just like yours
It should be mentioned for those wanting to go directly on the shingles that if your decking is half inch plywood its not thick enough to hold the screws tight.I’ve already seen it fail.
This is an awesome video man. Very informative and instructional. How do you stand on top of the sheet without accidentally denting it or even sliding it down? Are you wearing specialized footwear?
What an EXCELLENT video!!! I am going to be converting my roof from asphalt shingle to 26ga. metal myself. Nothing wrong with the existing one I just like the way the metal ones look....and hold up here in south Texas! Thanx for sharing 😊
Wow, you sure you’re not a pro? Great informative video. I’m researching doing exactly the same for my detached unheated garage with the same style gabled end roof pitch. The builder put in 2 roof vents but I see yours has no vents. Still trying to research how to install a vent into this style of ribbed roof. Anyway, great video and thank you!
Very excellent! Thank you so much for sharing., Take good care of you and yours.
Great video . By far the most explained one. Thanks
these are the best .. even new shingles constantly leak there little beads and clog the drainage system
This is why you pay someone to do a job.
You used the wrong sized screws. Just lost 10 years on a brand new roof.
Wood strapping is wrong.
Venting is wrong, gable is wrong, so is your starter.
But hey at least you saved money👍
Thanks for taking time to make the video!
Nice video.... Definitely some great pointers for the upcoming roof.
Thank you for your time on making this video!
Gable trim is designed to go over the top of the roof panels not under them! And you do not need screws on both sides of seams where panels overlap. 1 screw on the overlapped panel next to the rib is sufficient.Then 1 screw between every set of ribs at the same spot in relation to the lap fastening screw. The more holes you poke the more chances for leaks.
dnahulvey, thanks! Finally, someone said something right.
dnahulvey shut up.
Nice job Mr DIY roofer
So modest, you are just as skilled as Tim Allen bud!
Basically, you have a nice roof !! 👍👍
Could you line up the bottom so that the edge of the bottom is even... And then the uneven part could be hidden under the ridge cap? I mean it's only going to be what an inch? Then you wouldn't have to cut off anything at the bottom if it wasn't matching up...
Hey!! Thanks for posting this!! I have a simple garage that I need to cover. The condition is exactly the same as your video -- with old shingles that are starting to curve up, etc. I was toying with taking the old shingles off and putting all new shingles, but that is such a hassle. This looks to be an easier, quicker process. And I think it looks great! Thank you for posting this!!!
Good Job! Very Helpful! God bless you, and Jesus Loves you!
Great video, easy to follow. Well done, thanks
Thanks 👍 Glad it was helpful!
So I'm thinking that obviously you wouldn't be able to walk on the roof to sweep it off or whatever because of the strapping caving in between the boards , right?
You can just try to step on the screws so you know your on wood.
Why didn't you cut a 3 inch gap along the ridge so you could vent the roof?
Just some thoughts I have on this video. Furring Strips placed horizontally restrict, but not stop air flow under the Metal Roof. At 90° the temp under that metal will be 160° and possibly higher. That heat will conduct into the structure and raise cooling costs. Once the summer sun set the roof will cool relatively quickly and all of that humid air will now condense on the underside of that metal run and wet the furring strips. Hot air that was forced around the furring strips now will not have enough force to leave and humidity is trapped. Trapped moisture and heat will absolutely destroy the paper under the shingles, then the fun begins. So if you install the furring strips top to bottom venting will never be an issue, unless you don’t actually put vents in. You of course have to measure correctly to place them correctly. My choice is to install them at a 45° angle 2’ apart. Pot a bug screen at the bottom of the roof and I’ve never had a call back or leaks. You can cut small sections of furring strips out of the horizontal strips, inevitably I remove the piece I need to anchor the metal.
Thanks
Oh yeah if you’re finding your screws want to walk or wobble on you you can use a punch and start the hole so the screw grabs. You want your washer squashed-a little but not sticking past the edge of the metal washer so the sun doesn’t bake the rubber over time. You still need them to be tight.
And when choosing the end of the house to overlap give your prevailing winds a thought. So the wind isn’t blowing into the overlap end of course it blows in all directions but most of us have strong winds from east or west 80% of time.
They also sell closures that look like the material sos pads are to allow air to vent in and out if your ridge is vented.
My house has a double layer of shingles on the roof. I will be using 1 x 4 furring strips like you did, fastened to the roof with 3" screws. However, there are no turbines on the roof or gable vents, so I depend entirely on the ridge vent to remove heat from the attic. If I install those foam closures under the edges of the 20" wide ridge cap, how will attic heat get out?
Use a mesh foam to let it breathe. Air will pass through the mesh but will not let the bugs through.
I did similar for my chicken house(13x50 feet). But it needs exhaust fan. Otherwise it will be rain inside from moisture. Very good idea.
Very helpful video, thank you
I wager to say his favorite phrase is "locked in."
Basically, yes.
Or "Tacked"...
"Ash-fault"...
Nice presentation.
Great video! Did you order your supplies after providing all measurements to a supplier?
No you didn't give enough information . You gave an incredible amount of information. What a wonderful job you did, What I love is by leaving the shingles on it adds weight to the roof so I would think that if really severe winds were to hit the structure the roof would be much stronger. What an amazing video and thanks for sharing. Question! What would you think of doing this to a roof with two sets of shingle on a home?
leaving the shingles beneath helps with insulation. Mine is doing great!
i like the strapping , its an added layer of insulation effectively , maybe not super significant , but nonetheless i would imagine its making a measurable difference in attic temps. Ill have to record my attic temps before and after. would be best to take a reading for a full year before and after and record it in a spreadsheet, cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter most likely with the steel on straps over shingles.
All the strappings do is something to secure the metal too. To ensure that the metal is completely flat and level. Odds are the metal will leak at somepoint so now that the metal isnt screwed into the shingles the roof shouldnt leak
Thanks for the upload, I'm working on a portion of my roof. This was very helpful to watch.
I have suggestions if needed
Thanks so very much. Your video is great. Waymon
ICC Uzbekistan
i personally think the best way to strap it is run strapping down the roof vertically(every 16in or 24in whatever your trusses are,then run strapping horizontally That way if you do get a leak the water will go down the roof,the way its done here the water could dam up and cause a major issue inside,im not trying to knock your work it looks nice
And that's why you're not a roofer big guy
99scholz this makes total sense. a little extra expense and work, but could save some trouble in the end.
greetings! yes 99, and not only because of possible leak of water, but mostly because of condensations of water on metal inside the roof that can be daily process (temperature inside roof and from outside), and second reason is because of necessity for ventilation of the roof . This panels have not thermal isolation, we say here sandwich panel or isopanel. In that case strapping like in video can passed.
Very helpful video. Thank you for your help and your time.
Thank you very very much this video really very helpful
Great job .very easy to understand.
Great information..!
start your drip edge from the bottom and overlap it with the next piece! avoid water getting under the drip edge.
Nice Video,... You got your Mission Complete
pretty good job for a DIYer....thumbs up!
The easiest way to measure 24" on centers is....Providing that your boards are ALL the same width, Place the first piece on center where you want it and from there, measure 24" from top to top. This will eliminate trying to find the center of each board.
Great job I was curious why you didn't cut away the shingles and a strip of decking from under the ridge cap and put screen in for ventilation and put ridge cap over the screen tkx
Asphalt eats steel, so you certainly want separation from the shingles
Metal flashing has been used on asphalt shingle roofs for a hundred years or more and no problems. Look at any home where a wall meats a roof such as dormers. Or, look at lean-to roofs coming off the gable end on many homes. Look at chimney chases on any old home with asphalt shingles....they all have metal flashing. We lay 30" wide metal flashing in valley's and shingle right over them. Pull shingles up 30 years later and metal flashing is perfect.
So John, you are saying adphalt does not eat metal roofing? I like the wood strips idea. Soon will be doing my house roof.
Dear Just think. This roof is what my roof looks like.1995 roof.
But one side has different degrees of slope. West side. The top maybe 7ft slope, not quite 50 degree, then maybe another 7ft slope not so steep, maybe 30-40 degree. East side maybe 10ft, 50 degree slope into almost flat 10ft roop, 30 degree slope. North side a porch all flat, not more than 30 degree slope. I wanted metal sheeting as this is high wind, blizzards almost every week. snow level, you can just walk into the roof in the winter.
It is an old summer cottage, with add ons.
ANY SUGGESTIONS? Thanks.
YES, it is the contraction and expansion of the metal against the asphalt that WILL grind away at the metal, not sure if tar paper would counter this , my instincts tell me the roof would be so much more secure on a flat surface
The only way to know what you will receive for workmanship and how water tight a distributors product really is. Is to ask your installer for a list of localized customers names and numbers going back TWEENTY years. Once you find a co. Willing to provide you with a call list of customers that your contractor has done work for.
Your half way there.
Now you will get verified results and most customers won't mind giveing a drive by address so you can see how well it's lined up and how well the finish is wearing. If you see see any chalking out.
Skip that product, go to the next installer providing you a call list.
If your going to put down your own panels. Pile up your flat run panels, square off the ridge top ends, measure out screw hole lines and pre drill all the panels at one time, you will be very glad you did.
Put one screw in the middle of your first panel at the ridge to allow the panel to pivot at the overhang, now
Run a string line across the ridge to plum all ends, and align first panel, second, and third with one screw, If all is good, screw em down and move on one panel at a time.
If you got your overhang cuts looking squirely pop a line and skill saw them square with a cut all blade, don't forget to paint the edges.
For screws use a drill with a variable torque setting. Set it light so it has to chatter just a bit to firm up, you can make no mistakes this way.
This first time you over drive and severely dimple a panel, you'll wish you'd followed my advice.
Also invest in an electric nibbler, a whole saw blade, and a water level. These make the work enjoyable and ensure good looking cuts and damn perfect alignment.
I enjoyed this video. gave me some good hints thanx
just to let you all know do not screw into the pan of the sheet screw into the ribs only screw into the pan if installing wall cladding
What? Punctuation is your friend.
Nobody can understand arun on sentence you are blending phrases together people can't read minds the reason for punctuation the other commentor dead on why bother posting a comment when it's unintelligible crap
basically, you only screw into the pan if your METAL PANEL IS CRAP. If the metal is strong enough then the manufacturer generally recommends putting the screw into the rib. with the strong roofing, that rib screw is able to hold down the panels during high wind uplift conditions, with the added bonus of FAR less water exposure than screws that are in the pan.
by the way, with a REALLY decent roof, you don't screw through any exposed panel. you use clips.
I just did it with asphalt shingles (not over old shingles NO WAY). Architectural Owens Corning duration shingles. Seems easy with the tin roof, the trims (Gable, Eve, hip, valleys, and tin snips, that will BOG you down timewise! Nothing like the old ways. But get the new Architectural shingles unless you are really modest means when you need a roof, get the three tab.
Perfect man!