HOW TO INSTALL A METAL ROOF
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In this video I will be showing you in detail how to install a metal roof on your shed, garage, or house. This style of metal roof is called a Pro Rib metal roof. Many people will also refer to it as a pole barn metal roof. We show and explain how to install eave metal, metal panels, screw layouts, closures, rake metal, and ridge vent
I don’t want to be that guy that tells you all the things you did wrong, because that’s just isn’t nice and I’ve been on the receiving end of that myself. As a metal roofer, with years of experience, I would like to give you a few friendly suggestions. First of all 1x4’s are recommended to keep the metal off the shingles, so as to prevent it scratching the metal as it’s expands and contracts, and also allows it to breath underneath, and it also gives your screws solid wood to hold on to, if you only screw into plywood or OSB, your screws WILL back out and leak. And in our experience the closures you used will deteriorate and fall out, so I don’t like those, also screwing on the ribs is actually not a more leak proof way of screwing Down metal. I would also recommend doing underlayment, and obviously a shingle Tear-off is always best, but not necessarily required in all places. And just FYI metals from Menards seems to fade more quickly than some other manufacturers, but i understand not everyone has access to higher quality metal roofing materials. The one We like to use has a Valspar weather XL paint with a 40 year warranty. So another reason you shouldn’t cut metal with a grinder or a saw, is also because it heats up the paint and, ( with the metal we used) it voids the warranty. And I’ve personally seen where someone cut their metal with a saw, and put it under the ridge cap, and it still rusted. Not only that, but it also sends little hot shards of metal onto the panel and can also cause rusting where ever the sparks land. I’ve seen this first hand. All that to say, you have the basics down, and I’m sure your roof will last a good while, so good job on that, I hope this is constructive criticism, and not just another guy out here hating on your work, that isn’t going to be productive. And nobody likes to hear that. And I can appreciate the time you’ve put into this as I also make videos on Saw-milling and roofing, on different channels. @plankmiils Keep working hard and don’t stop learning.
How do you recommend cutting metal roofing if not with a saw or cutter?
Metal hand snips or electric snips with the current cost per foot of tuff rib metal or any type painted roofing panels it's not a good idea to put panels on your roof voiding your warranty before you install the first screw
I used a diablo fine tooth carbide blade on a circular saw. It will go through 5 sheets, leaving a smooth cut that does not need deburring to prevent cuts to your hands when handling the sheet. When someone told me this, I did not believe it until I tried it. Minimum heat and minimum sparks.
Your tips are helpful.
1x4 will rot out
You should never go directly onto shingles
Need purlin under for air flow
I've sold metal for 20 plus years and have seen panels rust thru because of moisture under against shingles
This is terrible demo video
purlins will rot out
Constructive criticism: a1) Modern metal roof science - it's no longer recommended to screw into the rib nor lap rib. The screw has greater opportunity to work its way loose based on contraction/expansion of the metal. The screws are placed on the flats as specified, by the manufacture, x distance from the rib. a2) If someone decides to screw into the ribs a special screw called a stitch screw is to be used & not the ones you used to do so. b) Don't pre-drill (even though it is easier). all metal screws are self-starting and designed to create their own penetration. c) Under the ridge cap the metal gets screwed down 'in the flats' to secure the panel itself. Depending on the desired wind-rating/code requirements those screws need to go in in addition to the stitch screws that secure the ridge cap to the metal sheets at the ribs. d) For people watching - never use an impact tool without a clutch to install the screws. You'll get what is called 'oil canning' where small 'dents' can be seen quite easily from the ground & 'oil canning' almost always means the washer seal is too tight. e) the overlap does matter and the warranty will be void if you install them in the wrong order (per the manufacturer) f) using a cut-off wheel will also void the warranty because the paint is more likely to fail at those points. Use a 'nibbler' or make the cuts by hand (and yes the manufacturer can tell what causes paint failures).
From the comments it's pretty clear that people found this helpful and are inspired to do their own or go with metal in the future and I think that's great. While it can get expensive to have someone else do metal installs - If one is doing it themselves it's not that much more and it'll last for decades if done properly. 40 years is not an unreasonable expectation.
Thanks for the constructive comments including justifications.
your 100 percent right but if you ask any good roofer poll barn is junk better off reshingling it
@@johnlee7085 YW. Yeah, not trying to be a 'know it all' or being critical for no reason or without kindness. Everyone starts somewhere and youtube is filled with people who think they are experts on everything and they never make mistakes because they never try. The point is to try. Additionally, especially when finances are tight, I want people to know they can do a metal roof install themselves and it can, literally, last decades. Thanks again:). GL.
This guy writes a book on youtube. This is a video site, not reddit. tldr
A circular saw with a metal blade or fine tooth blade will cut through the panels much faster and cleaner. Just my 2 cents
(NEVER).... I repeat.. (NEVER) put metal down upon bare shingles!!
(ALWAYS) use a roll of reflectix.... Looks like bubble wrap insulation.. Put that down first with long staples, use foil tape to tape the seams with a squeegee, then place the metal on top of said reflectix...
Any "NATURAL OCCURRING MOISTURE" that can get between shingles and metal will rust out metal, this is where the reflextix wrap takes into action by protecting bottom of metal...
It also will lower temps and reflect summer heat.. It lowered mine by 50% in summer upstairs!
Are you using black drywall screws!? Those should never be used for this. Bad idea they have no corrosion resistance
and I drywall screw that is gonna rust out also
WTH
Is this video a joke ?😂
Thanks for making this video and sharing it with us! I really appreciated all your explanations and details. I can't believe you did all this by yourself and did the video too. Great job! 😉 👍
it isnt easy and to film and explain is even harder. I have been rewarded by youtube with views so it was worth it....This video took 14 hours just to edit...That is time after the filming and actually doing the roof. Most people do not understand
How long are your screws? Are you getting one inch of penetration into your structure, because during high wind gusts this roof panels will be ripped off because of the gap by you drilling into the top of the rib instead of placing the screws in the flat part of the panel. What’s hard to believe is that you claim to be a roofer? I’ve done plenty of roofs and sliding, and never ever seen this type of application for where the screw is placed.
It is common in some areas, for the reasons he explained and I don't think suggesting he is not a roofer is a great way to pursue a conversation. That said I had it explained to me that laying direct to shingles is not best practice, though some people do, putting down 2x4s is preferable which might also solve for your concern as long as they are tied in well
Great work and an even better job explaining the process. I’m taking notes. Helping DIYers Like myself get the job done!
Unfortunately he did not do things correctly. Please do yourself a favor and check your metal roif supplier. They will have all the proper steps to do this correctly
I just watched your entire video of an asphalt roofing job and how to do the difficult end so you have a great run. That was an excellent job. Love this one as well. We have a new person that's liked both videos so far and a new subscriber.
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are a great instructor. I can hardly believe that you installed this metal roof all by yourself plus videoing it. Great job.
Covering a perfectly good Asphalt shingle roof lol.
The shingles were in good shape as far as I could tell. Not sure why this was done. I could understand this if the house was a metal roof and owner wanted them to match, but the house was shingle as well. Maybe it was constantly leaking because the shingles were incorrectly installed? Not sure. No explanation given.
You don't want to screw on the top of the ridge panel sorry that is wrong
Sorry...I have to criticize your work and some choices of fasteners.
First off:
I wouldn't use drywall screws. Treated deck screws would not rust giving much more life to your roof or use the same neoprene washer screw as you used at the bottom if it's hight allows.
Cutting the sheets by skill saw with a metal blade wouldn't heat up the metal and burn the paint when making the cuts.
Why no strapping for moisture and air circulation under de metal? Do you now that condensation accumulation gets on the underside and the roof starts rusting from underneath ?
You're a hard working guy !
Rather than just start at the back, start at the end furthest away from the prevailing weather, the wind blows over the joint rather than under.
Just finished an insulated box profile roof, not only does the insulation make it warmer but stops the frost underneath soaking everything inside when the sun comes out, didn't bother on my shed and as it thaws it "rains" on me, anyone with a van with no headliner will know the experience 😊.
Totally understand the wind concept !!!!
Drywall screws outside will rust out rather quick which could be a problem.
The drywall screws I used are not exposed. they are under the panels
@@Lifes_Apprentice Its humid outside?
Don't use drywall screws on metal roofing drip edgeing use number 10 sheet metal screws. Drywall screws will rust apart and break over in about five years
The screws are behind closures and under panel like 4 inches
@@Lifes_Apprenticethe humidity will still cause them to rust. Trust me I know this from experience
I enjoyed the video. If I might add a correction to help solve the excessive wear from the grinder blade. The cut should be made starting on the other side of the metal panel. The cut you made allowed the knife edge of the metal to cut into and remove material from the blade, causing excessive wear. Cut from the other direction ( with you standing in the same position cutting away from you instead of pulling toward your self. ) This removes the knife edge effect and gives a smooth edge instead.
Interesting. Thanks.
Or you could get a proper metal roof cutting tool that doesn’t void the warranty and lead to premature failure.
This doesn't make any sense. Pushing or pulling it's the same dynamic. The wheel doesn't magically spin any differently. Please refrain from giving any future "advice" or commentary. Thank you.
Because of this video I will be able to get my shop dried in with some confidence. Thank You.
Glad I could help
@tracyfoster 4006 do not do what this guy did do what @plankroofind has suggested.the only smart thing this guy did was screw through the ribs only fools screw through the flat part of the sheeting.
I love the metal roofing, especially when leaving the old shingles under it for insulation, but in Texas I've noticed everyone ( or around where I live ) they put a one by up to give it some air flow underneath tbe tin. I guess maybe because it gets so hot here I never asked, but it works. But you did a good job. I work alone as much as humanly possible so I appreciate this video. Thanks man
Thanks!
See planks comments for pro tips.
Drywall screws are extremely weak, brittle and are not made for exterior application.
Safety first, harness and use chicken strips, or a ladder on that slope. Most falls are fatal at 30 feet
I should have used roofing nails and found a higher roof then...
Drywall screws for the eave drip edge? Ah, no, those will rust out.
They will never see water. They are under roof and behind foam closures. They will rust when the entire roof rust seeing as they are made out of the same metal
@@Lifes_Apprentice They will likely see moisture from condensation forming on the underside of the metal roof panels...pancake screws with zinc coating on them are ideal for this type of install...this is great learning opportunity for all
My man has never seen condensation under panels
Pre-cutting and pre-drilling the panels is a great idea and time saver. A better way to terminate the ridge end of the gable flashing is to run one side long and then cut the vertical at the ridge line and fold it over. Over all a great video for us DYI'ers. thanks for the tips.
You ignore all safe practices when working at heights! Where is your safety line when on the roof?
How would you have done this safely? I would like to know?
Drywall screws are more brittle and prone to breakage than regular wood screws, so their use in dense hardwood is not recommended. Pilot holes and countersink if you do. They also rust easily and are not suited to outdoor use.
Never ever use drywall screws outside or inside in moisture or water areas .
Those screws are under the panel....They are not exposed
If you installed that around here it would blow off, you should always strap the roof with 1/4 spruce before installing the metal panels
That's a REALLY GOOD idea to pre-drill the holes, while they're stacked together.
😮. SO WRONG ,, I'M SHEET METAL WORKER ,,GET SOME PROFESSIONAL KNOLAGE ,,BETTER FINISH
I never seen no one put screw in bottom of e drip 😂😂😂 why is u using grinding they have electric metal cutters 😂😂 wtf he put screw in rib of the Panel honestly you f that roof up sloppy cuts
electric cutters like nibblers or double cut shears with deform the ribs on the panel. never screw in the in the low of the panel it will leak in 10 years because screw washers will dryrot. thanks for your input but this is the right way to do it
@@Lifes_Apprentice no I follow the code I do Professional legit work
@@keepgrinding1k761 I am a licensed contractor for almost 20 years so do I
@@Lifes_Apprentice You over compressed every washer that was captured on your video. That's why they fail in 10 years. Properly compressed can be expected to last 20-25 years.
@@Lifes_Apprentice what's your license number?
I have done small metal roof at my home projects. I build the rafter, then place osb plywood, then tar paper then metal roof, butyl tape and polyethene roof flashing caulking. The guys at the treasure valley steel co are very helperful giving me advice on metal roof for a DIY guy
Advice needed here.... 12 by 15 foot add on made of concrete block and poured floor and roof needs replaced. Snakes have made their way up the block and into the ceiling and have been seen on top of roof several times. Question I have is.... Anyway of filling the gap between the ridges and 1x4... These gaps are where snakes move up and down now, I dont want to mess with the expansion and contraction but need to seal it. Any suggestions?
You should be able to install some sort of flashing to close off the gaps
Everything I read says you are putting the screws in the wrong location. They should be put in the flat at specific places relative to the ridges, not in the ridges. In the ridges is appropriate for corrugated roof panels.
The roof will leak in 10-15 years if you put screws in the lows
@@Lifes_Apprentice You argue with everyone who tells you this but all the manufacturer's instructions confirm that you are 100% wrong.
What do the manufacturers know anyway? They’re probably just looking for excuses to pay out warranty claims so they don’t have to take winter vacations to warm sunny places. {sarcasm off}
ive done a lot of roofs in my time but not a metal roof and dude this was a great video and helped me out because im getting ready to do my first next week, thanks and god your crazy for walking down that ridge installing the ridge on pollen , you can see it
The ridge was kinda sketchy! Glad you like the video!
Gutters are supposed to be installed UNDER the drip edge. Therefore, you DO NOT screw the front of the drip edge to the facia...... Period
There are no gutters and will not be gutters. If there were to be gutters they would go under drip edge and the gutter staps would be screwed through drip edge most likely anyways...explain why what I did is an issue???
U should never nail or screw through drip edge or through aluminum facia. Water will and I mean will get in and rot your boards out.
Drip edge over shadow board Vicor between shadow board and fascia. Gutter under shadow board and fastened to fascia.
Great video. You gave such great advice to make it easier. Placing it over the shingles was a good idea as well. The end result looks fabulous!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for watching
Placing the metal directly on the shingles will inevitably scratch the metal and cause it to fail prematurely. See other comments above.
I have a garage that is attached to my house. The garage gable end is a couple of feet lower than the house gable. The siding I have is cedar shingles with aluminum flashing. My question is how I flash the vertical of the house and the horizontal of the garage roof with metal roofing?
You will have to install a new flashing behind the siding
DUDE FORGOT TO TAKE THE SHINGLES OFF 😜
Obviously an ameture!
How many inches do you overlap the Ridge
Barry
I would do about 4 to 6 inches
Back again terrible roofing they are videos out there that show how it is done properly look arround
I have experience and doing some home rehab’s but never roofing. I was 50% confident before watching this video. Now I’m 100% confident that I could do this. I love the way you teach you’re a damn good teacher.
Thanks! I appreciate that
I’m 69 yo woman and about to do my 2nd by myself. Always learn from everyone, ins/outs - good and not so. Thank you for great info, I may modify a bit depending on condition….this situation of mine is under a deck, hardly any room and so I may sacrifice stringers (code here) for slope. Gotta have, right? Haha, of course. Thanks again. Great input.
This is not womanswork. Go find a man.
I seen in some of the comments before they told you it was recommended to put metal on 1 by 4 over the top of shingles I don't know who it's recommended by but I don't think they're professional at least not from where I'm from. It's recommended to tear all the shingles off come down to the sheathing make sure all nails are nailed down the sheeting is now down good if not renail it. Then put a good moisture barrier on it then screw your roof directly down to the decking and know if you get your screws all the way through the sheeting no matter if it's OSB or 1/10 they will not back out you have to come back in 5 or 10 years and replace the screws because the washers will be deteriorated but no they will not back out
That is why I screw in the highs of the panels because it will not leak when washers wear out...You should tear the roof off before install but this is just a shed and I wasnt worried about it
@user-ol4uf6uu3u What you described is best, though some add the 1x4 to create an extra air gap for ventilation.
The 1x4 if the shingles aren’t removed is to separate it from the shingles and keep it from getting scratched, which leads to premature failure. It’s less critical in the scenario you described.
Won't the water run under the eve flashing if you left as is prior to top metal top ??
U can set the clutch on your drill to set your screws without smashing the metal.
Excellent!!!
Even on a shed don’t use drywall screws
Hacking is how he rolls.
Is this just steel ? Galvalume ? 29 gauge ? 24 gauge ? Anybody ?
It is steel I believe 26 or 28 guage
Did you put caulking in the ridge cap laps? Everywhere says to do that but I don't know if that's kind of overkill or not...logically, it makes sense that you would.
Also, how would you seal below the ridge cap on the ends where the metal panels below don't meet in order to keep animals out?
you can caulk the laps if you would like
@@BlumpkinSpiceLatte there are foam closures that go on panels where the ridge meets panels
@@Lifes_Apprentice nah I mean on the gable end, at the top of the triangle.
@@BlumpkinSpiceLatte I cut and folded the metal on the end to make a endcap in the video
How you install a metal roof. Not everyone does it this way. Nope.
Great video! I am doing my shed now. I had my main house roof done. And he did not use the foam enclosures at the end. Should I fill them up with foam or something. Is it necessary.
You can add the closures after the fact.
Nice video. I read a lot of the comments and think you did it in a very economical way. I have never put a metal roof on and have a question. My garage is a 5/12 (I think) metal roof and has a leaking very narrow ridge cover. It's no more than a 6" ridge. I want to cover the existing ridge with a 12 to 14" ridge cover/cap. Is it ok to put a wider ridge over a narrow one? The only places my garage leaks is at the ridge and has an extreme amount of tar & kool seal on it already. Because its too narrow is why I think its leaking. Hopefully I described my issue to where you can help. Thanks in advance.
Yeah put the larger ridge over the top... I do not see any issue with that
You never use drywall screw on the roof and you never lay down metal panels on the shingles. You should remove the shingles before you install or strapping
Right its amazing how many videos with wrong or mis information with so-called professional installing wrong glad I'm not paying for that
Even more amazing, disturbingly so, is the number of people that lap it up, or diyers that spit in the wind of professionals. Really scary is when it’s contractors that get it wrong.
Been there, done that, and currently in the middle of doing one now. Hats off to you! It's hard enough when you have help. Keep up the good work. Thank you for sharing your tips. I've been doing this for over 25 years, but I enjoy watching other people. I pick up a lot of nifty ideas. Even though I've been doing this type of work a very long time, there is still opportunity to learn new things.
Is the rake flashing any different than a steel pole barn corner?
You can use a coerner for rake I believe. It depends on situation and what is available. they can be ordered to size you want as well
seen medal roof installed several ways over shingle ..none straight over ..but striped w/ 1x4 or 2x4 1 st ran horz ever 16 - 24 " up ..& sometime foam board insulation indbetween sometimes ...but the fasteners ..most ive seen all fasteners in The Flatt roof .. not seems ..& also seen seen them on seems or ridge hi side like yours , witch i do like better
Just a warning metal roofs. I installed one 12 years because I loved the 50 year warranty but make sure the design addresses ingress in other words if squirrels and birds can get under the spaces or caps and into your attic you will have trouble potentially big trouble.. Wish this video was about a roof job with caps.
Thank you for the info and well-made video.
Glad it was helpful!
Appreciate the video but all the manufacturers specify screwing on the sides of the ribs, NEVER on top of the rib. One screw next to each rib, except at overlaps where one screw goes on each side of the overlapped rib. Take my word for it, or look up the install specs from the manufacturer of your panels.
I've been doing metal roofing for 15 years and love seeing roofs like exactly the way I watched in this video because it becomes a new job for myself to tear off to do it the correct way... first off putting metal directly on top of shingles is not the correct way of installation lol... wood purlins should installed on shingles at 24" spacing and then metal panels screwed to purlins.. besides that there just too many other hack issues here to list.. just saying it's a issue from the beginning... no metal roofing manufacturer is gonna warranty this installation
Exactly as I would do it. KISS. To hell w the naysayers. "Granules and rusting from the underside." " Not in this lifetime. " Using drywall screws, rusting. " Ah, they are covered by the panel. Maybe not the perfect way to do it but the most economical for sure. 😊
Thanks for watching
I'm guessing a local big box store wouldn't carry everything needed, so instead
of not getting everything it would be better to find a local steel roofing supplier.
Where do I get rake trim and eve trim like you used?
Any supplier you can get the roofing panels from should be able to get a variety of trim.
Pretty sure you're not supposed to use drywall screws and also you aren't supposed to screw onto the ribs. I get this is on a shed but spending an extra 50 bucks on 2x4 and nails would make this last a lot longer.
$50 bucks? Where do you get your lumber? I agree with the drywall screws. Saved me a comment.
It looks great thank you again.
What would you use to coat a mobile home roof Shirley
@@shirleysasse5842 there is a elastimeric coating(paint) that you can use. Usually white. Ask the paint department. Just rolls on. Two coats. Surface prep is important. Good luck.
Building materials not the paint department. Very different materials.
Shirley, elastomeric is an economical choice as long as the roof is sound, but it’s not waterproof. If there’s any leaking, silicone is the way to go. It’s significantly more expensive but generally has a lifetime warranty vs 5-15 years for elastomeric.
metal should never be installed directly over asphalt shingles as the shingles act like sand paper when the metal expands and contracts with hot and cold, it will shorten the steels life and could wear a hole in it. also manufactures recommend screws to be installed in the lows but the highs will work!
You should have lap mastic at every lap on each sheet to keep the lap sealed. Also you should have hsd a underlay installed over the shingles before installing the metal sheets.
Guess can use that if the roof slope is 2” or less
Great job thank alot for detailed explanation and professional work! That’s really helpful
You are welcome!
Carry a portable table saw and put a metal/vinyl blade on it. Straighter cuts on your metal. Also, match the paint to your metal roof to paint the underside.
Another add when strapping use vertical first then horizontal so sweating can run down and out the bottom not trapped behind the horizontal
I use grinder cutter wheels for years. I you are worried about the cut under the ridge panel then spot rust oleum paint the cut’s.
Very easy to follow. Thank you!! Nice job!
You are so welcome!
Thank you for the tips I like to do things like this by myself and this video was extremely helpful.
Great job guy thank you i under stand it all thank you so much Richard that was streight to point you made seem so easy to me now better under standing of it all too!
If you want to move around on that roof wear some rubber waders, it’s keep gravity from taking over.
Thank you for this information. We recently hired a contractor to do our roof and he completed less than half the roof of our house and nothing on our garage and the contractor has taken off with our money and now we have no roof on the house and having trouble getting anyone else to come out and fix it because the original contractor did not install it correctly. My goal is to attempt to put he roof on my garage myself, but I was curious how this system worked as this is exactly the style we have.
Great video!!!!! Thank you for such an informative, well-done video!
Thanks!
The whole point in a drip edge is for water to trip away from the wood, so I would never screw into the drip on the facia always want to allow the cutter to be installed behind the drip edge directly into the facia.
Did you leave the ridge open at the rake? I'm doing same style roof and was thinking about bending the metal in, but that seems like a pain. If left open, did you use any type of blocker to stop wasps, etc?
I showed in the video how I used foam closures to seal off where ridge meets panel and how I finished ridge where it meets rake...
Thank you for making such an informative video!
Quick question though:
Why does everyone put the smaller lap over the larger lap when installing the panels, and not vice versa? It's a much more flush fit with large over small. I guess it runs the risk of capillary action wicking water in between?
I don't think it really matters either way. just my opinion
The reason you put the small one on top is to prevent water from syphoning up the rib. It also provides structure for the lap to maintain its shape while your pushing and screwing
It's recommended this way from the manufacturer. The other way around will wick water into the crevice.
The best roof design is "simple"!
leaks come from designers/architects
Rustoleum, rusty metal primer would make great touch up paint for that roof.
Love your expertise on how to do this shed.
Very informative... Thank you! I was watching a manufacture video who drove 2 screws per valley instead of 1 per peak... The peaks makes more sense for run off but does it matter? Also, Yours is the first without furring... Again, do they matter?
You should use furring, I mentioned that in the video. I think you should screw in the highs on the panel because the washers will wear out and leak in the lows. The manufacturer recomends the lows but I have seen way to many problems over the years doing that. It is really up to you
Jajajaja como me diverti con este video poniendo la lamina en los shingles para que se pudra y los tornillos arriba del canal para que leakie agua y luego tornillos sheetraqueros jajaja
Great video ,gives confidence to newbies. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
Definitely not supposed to screw in the highs but hey it's your project do it however you want.
Def scew in the high. 🤡
I like that your showing me how to do this roof I live in a mobile home and I have thought about doing this kind of roof my self.
Don't ever cut panels with anything but snips or sheers. It causes the panels to rust. 😅
Great video. Thanks for making it!! Thumbs and subbed
Thanks for the video for doing a shed.
What do you do if the raised part of the metal roof happens to line up with where that rake flashing has to sit?
Thank you very much for this video :):):)
@15:07 you do not fasten at the top of the ridges except where two panels come together and overlap. 🤦♂
i noticed theres no strapping on the roof, do we not need strapping before putting the tin?
Straight screw lines is the difference between pro and wanna be !
Drywall screws are a no no and you should have put the panel screws should have been put in between the raised ribs. Other than that looks good.
I agree that drywall screws weren't the ideal choice. Maybe ceramic deck screws would be okay - as long as it lays smooth and flat to the metal. (for the edge flashing)
Good description. When I gang cut / drill the panels, I usually clamp them together (or run a screw into the first couple holes I drill) so that the panels don't slide on me.
Screws should be on the low to compress washers and the ridge only to join the sheets and sealed the joint
And in 10 years your screws will all leak
@@Lifes_Apprentice not if installed right on the rib the holes elongate because steel not tight
check manufactures web site
can send you their fact sheets if you would like
I've seen the arguments about rusting and granule problems from going directly over shingles. Here in rain country, I put down a "shield and ice" barrier - skipped the purlins and haven't had a problem in 20 years. That's the way we do it here.
The roof will be fine the way it is...I could make the videos to exact specs and people would still say it was wrong. That is how it is on youtube!