The factory 1970 LS-6's had TRW forged pistons with an advertised compression ratio of 11:1 with the closed chamber rectangle port heads and steel shim head gaskets.The 71's had the same shortblock but open chamber rectangle port heads. Seems to me they had a windage tray as well, but that could have been removed.
my buddy used to work at a machine shop. he used too tear the engines down all day everyday. never did the heads in any order when removing head bolts,never heard of a warped head from removal. some of these old myths need to be put too bed. i once put a small block chevy together with a 1/2 drive ratchet n extention. no torque pattern our spec on the tightness. the thing ran for years,you would be surprised at how forgiving theseold iron chevy's are!
a v8? this an engine for a truck,, and ususally its diesel a cheaper fuel and a more efficient engine.. thast why Detroit went bankrupt.. well whatever peoples collect strange stuff:))
I haven't done this with new ultra clean builds. I have seen good evidence that the bypass allows way to much oil to bypass the filter. Change your oil frequently to keep it clean.
The motor was slated for the 1970 Corvette and rated at 460hp. That never happened, and it was rated at 450hp for the Chevelle. The 'Vette got the LS6 in '71, but with a 9.25-1 compression ratio rated at 425hp. Horsepower rating went to SAE net in '72 and the engine was rated at 325hp. Interestingly enough, the second gen LS6 in the C5 Corvette was rated from 385hp ('01) to 405hp ('02 to '04).
Interesting, the 1970 LS6 454 came with closed chamber rectangular port heads. the heads on that engine looks like 1971 open chamber heads. Heads must of been change at some point. Nick the customer need to find a set of closed chamber heads part number 3964291, If he wants the correct heads for a 70 LS6 454.
Hey Nick. If you could show viewers the eyebrows on the bottom of the cylinders nearest to crank for the rod clearance. I learned about this when I was young and it is only on 454. Old days all big blocks looked the same until you turned them over. Great Job guys!!
Those little scratches in all the bearings will add up the metal count. That block and exhaust manifolds paint was nearly pristine, kinda says not run very long. There should not be any scrapes and pits in those bearings. The combustion chambers color did not look good at all, jet black exhaust valves. That cam did not look good to me at all, hard to see in a video. That one lifter with the squared wear pattern, almost guaranteed the cam lobe it mates to is smoked! Engine ran bad, tune could have been way off. Add all this together and check cylinder wear carefully too.
I looked up the specs on that cam they took out and it's 236/236 @ .050 with 561 lift. That's a fair amount more than stock. If he's just looking to cruise, I would back that off a bit. Coupled with possibly a bad tune, it's not too hard to see why he thought it didn't run very good. Looked way rich from the combustion chambers.
@@JimBronsonIt was probably jetted wrong as well with most people thinking more fuel is always better performance wise but that's not the case because you get fuel wash on the cylinders and piston rings so they wear faster besides worse fuel mileage extra carbon and dirty spark plugs .
Don't know why Nick and his brother discounted that one lifter that was not turning so fast. Oil analysis is not done on what the eye sees, unless you can see microscopically. When was this analysis done? How many oil changes ago? Why do both valve covers look brand new inside? Neither of them took a look at cam bearings. Those heads seemed to have fairly large combustion chambers, almost like the 71 had. This car may be a very late 70 build. They will also want to validate the numbers on the block. Seems a bit odd that the engine has so many new parts like all sheet metal, cam, lifters, springs pistons looked new as well, but the bore size was still standard. Something seems off to me. I have never been a believer in oil analysis, it always seems to me the results always seems to back the salesman's claims.
I would have liked to have seen the numbers on the oil analysis. Domestic V8s throw a lot more metal on analysis than do Hondas. Iron, aluminum, lead and copper would be most telling. I don't think I would personally condemn an engine based on an oil analysis unless the numbers were over 100PPM for any of the 4 metals I mentioned. The oil pump housing did look a little worn, but the gears seemed fine. Give it a light hone, rings, bearings and a new oil pump and throw it back together. Good to go for another 50 years.
Any time you see a piston with L followed by 4 numbers, they are TRW/Speedpro forgings. Also, I think you breezed right over the source of metal that went through the oil pump and was found in the oil testing. I believe it was that one lifter, and you should check the crown on the remaining lifters. They may all be going flat.
Yes, Nick and Manny seem to have forgotten about that at times. It wasn't totally wasted, but the engine doesn't look like it was run very much. The outside looked like a fresh restoration
Good news on this motor, I was worried it would be much worse. I could watch this stuff all day - keep em coming! And thank you to the client and the nicks garage crew for bringing us along
@@timhughes1801you are absolutely correct. Especially on a matching numbers LS-6 Chevelle. The value in the rebuild would only come from a renowned BBC builder. Or a LS-6 expert.
Each brand had a magnificent motor. You cant put any of them down. Back in the day it was brand loyalty,still is but they each had a bad ass motor to offer.
that's a strange one im wondering if it was run with no air filter an sucked in a bunch of debris check oil filter if you have it , those are big pistons, great video
If thats what i think it is its a Comp magnum 282S solid lifter 11-218-4 part number 282-282 advertised duration 236-236 at .050 duration .561in .561ex lift with the factory 1.7 rocker ratio It has a 110lsa and is ground on a 106 intake centerline The factory camshaft was 316* advertised duration 242in 242ex at .050 .520-.520 lift and a 114lsa installed on a 108* intake centerline So if you want easy on parts, mixed with decent power and high detonation tolerance on pump gas the factory specs would work well The Comp Cam will make more power in the mid range and although will sound pretty lumpy its actually too small imho to replace the factory cam Personally i would go with a Bullet grind with these specs 296-306 advertised duration 244in 250ex .540-.540 net lift and a 112lsa installed at 108 and 💯 would use Direct Lube solid lifters
@@scottthief60 yeah it’s not the worst choice but when you have over 11 to one compression on pump gas you need to bleed off a little bit more cylinder pressure in my opinion
The original camshaft specs are 520 lift I 520 lift e, .242 I .242 E 80 degree overlap The heads for 1970 ,454 LS 6 are casting,3964291 closed chamber 108cc Or it can be 3964292 closed chamber 109 cc. There 2 different closed chamber heads available for 1970
@@DSRE535 correct. I was at 10.4 compression and it worked well for me on premium pump. I put together a 496 with 10.5 compression and that same cam gave up a bit over 50hp vs a 254 duration at .050 custom grind solid cam. That was a pump gas motor when I wasn't spraying it.
The 114 LSA would have taken some of the edge off of the factory cam. I personally like the 4 pattern Comp cams for factory hi performance BBC setups, however, they don't come cheap. For this customer, who owns a numbers matching 70 Chevelle SS and already flew the engine 3000+ miles away and across the border, I assume he's got the jack to put anything in that he wants. I like the 11-615-44 for this application, it will idle better and make more power than stock, as well as pulling hard to 6500 RPM. But I'm sure he's not going to be asking me.
I have a full roller setup in my 454 with factory valve covers and single cork gaskets. No spacer or double gaskets. The owner has the small poly locks to fit under stock covers so keep them
Love the ol 454 Chevy Big Block it is a Legend in it's own Right . Especially in a Corvette, Chevelle, Camaro .... ol Street Kings too. Big Wave to Mr.Nick ,George, and Manny ...Hope everyone is doing well and happy 😊😊😊❤
A Cobra, 340 Duster, AAR Cuda, Plymouth GTX or RR for back ground candy. If that ain't worth the price of admission.......I don't know what is. They are TRW L2349. When I look them up the description say's they are for a 1970 LS6 Closed Chamber. COMP Cams Magnum Solid Camshaft 11-219-4 Camshaft, Mechanical Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 294/294, Lift .595/.595, Chevy, Big Block
I bought a used 1970 LS6 Chevelle with the legendary M22 rock crusher tranny and a 4.10 rear axel back in 1971. It was a monster! I was in my mid 20's and the poor tires took a terrible beating. Eventually I installed a factory 454 LS7 12.5 compression create motor and 4.88 gears! Eventually I sold the car for much less than todays prices. Still kick myself for that decision!!
The Original cam was a Crane cam GM installed. .520/.520 with .242/.242@.050. The Comp that is installed has. .561/.561 with .236/.236@.050 Both solid flat tappet cams.
Have developed over 100 SBC Gen0/Gen1 engines using David Vizard Engine Math and Pro-Sim software. At 50 yrs old would welcome an opportunity to be an apprentice and learn from an expert proper build either automotive or marine. In Michigan however I am free to move anywhere in the world. Thank you Nick for sharing your knowledge.
It's such a pleasure to watch these old school gentlemen mechanics working together showing such respect for each other, for their tools and for the engine itself. Never a cuss word spoken nor short temper shown or corners cut, you just can't beat it!
I would really love to see this engine on Nick’s dyno once it’s put back together! You don’t see many muscle car engines that are this original. I looked up the cam specs and it is a solid lifter cam with 236/236 @ .050 with 110 LSA. Pretty healthy!
@@nickpanaritis4122 I was wondering how unleaded fuel would impact the factory performance numbers. What do you have to change to make a classic engine run on today’s fuel? Internal parts or just timing?
That's a nice setup you got there with the 7/16 rods, I bet it has a steel crankshaft also. I know what probably happened I seen it done before somebody was lashing the valves and a little piece of something went through the motor and went through the oil pump.. and I bet you they put a can of (engine restorer) in the oil and that's where all the metal particles brass copper and everything is showing up in the oil that was tested..🏁👍🏁
When putting it together someone didn’t clean it again. Be nice to find out. The oil sheet page would give me a heart attack to. I think it was a good idea to send it to you also. Hard to find good people to work on your stuff. I don’t trust anyone in my area.
I would be asking the owner how the oil sample was taken & who took it. Was it taken with a proper oil sample suction gun with a new hose & bottle? Was it taken from the oil stream as it was draining from the pan or was it dipped from the drain pan afterwards? I suspect the sample got contaminated somehow! The internals of that engine look way too good for that oil sample report!!
I grew up in the seventies and when I was a kid there was a guy in the neighborhood that had one of those cars and I remember it being ridiculously fast I Road in the car as a kid and I remember it having trouble getting hooked up Just Tires Spin Tire spin talk about fun that brings back a lot of very fond old memories from when I was a kid
180 degrees thermostats are correct temperature for performance + non perf blocks, I really don’t know what car mfg really use 160 temperature thermostats.
180 & 195 degree thermostats were used on a lot of the smog motor engines so they ran hotter because of emissions reasons to help burn the hydro carbons and make the cats burn more efficient. You can run a cooler thermostat but if the engines isn't run that much & doesn't get hot sludge can start to form and the oil should be changed more frequently. I just changed the intake manifold to a performance dual plane weiand stealth and took the 195 thermostat out & put a 175 so it runs cooler with the HD 4 core radiator because it has no emissions at all & I can tell a difference in power and off idle full throttle pulls in the truck by quite a bit 1 because the engine isn't running as hot especially in our hot humid summer weather besides the other intake manifold is a much better design that has better torque and HP from off idle to 7,800 RPMs . I change my oil pretty often because it also gets used in the winter to plow my driveway so the engine is very clean inside then when winter is over and spring hits I change the oil and filter again because I enjoy driving the truck at times in the spring summer months at times .
Some of the 454 Ls had aline bore that was off.i new age that had one it had to be done 2 times before thay found out line bore off did a line bore done it was good .
@@randyslatton3945 I wish I could tell you, mine was a 1970, as was my friend’s, I thought the only difference would have been the compression, and some tuning for the lower compression, but honestly I can’t say for sure. I’ve never actually seen a 71 LS-6 plenty of 70 cars though. The carb on the 71 was a Holley 780 from what I’ve heard, on the 70 it was an 800 cfm, but again, I’m not speaking from personal observation.
The grey appearance of the oil describes what the note from the owner indicates. Those rod bearing do not look good, while not looking terrible. There is nothing major wrong with the engine, BECAUSE the owner has done the right thing and chose to have it rebuilt before catastrophic damage took place. This is how all engine owners should be and it makes your job, and the machine shop job easier. But this engine is definitely ready for a rebuild. Things to not have to look like a disaster for the engine to be ready for a rebuild.
just put it back together ,, how many miles dose this guy plan on driving it ,,, look good for another 100.000 , As long as you dont beat on it allday at the race track :) and why replace standard bar piston? The piston`s in a california engine have less compression, pollution law`s of the day,, I knotist the air pump holes plug off, california had air pumps as early as 1970
Who else here, knowing what we know now, wishes they could go back to 1970 with unlimited funds and buy a few muscle cars? You know Nick is trusted when a customer ships him an engine like this to work on! Go Nick! 👍🏻
Nick, oil has the highest lubricity/lowest friction ability in an engine at 195 to just over 200 degrees...even 180 is too cold for max power potential. Thoughts?
I did my first engine (SB Chevy) when I was 17 in 1981. It was fairly low miles but an oil burner. Re-ring and bearing, new cam, lifters and timing chain, valve job. dingle ball hone on the std bore. It appeared the machine shop did not take out the galley plugs. I did wash the block when I got it back. Spun a rod at 20,000 miles. Next engine, I pulled all the plugs myself and put the new ones in. You can never be too clean.
My ultimate dream car. 1970 LS6 SS Chevelle. 450hp underrated. A Hemi Cuda' or Boss 429 wouldn't be bad either. 😁 Copper? Aluminum? Is it possible they got the wrong 454 oil results? The older bearings had copper lining, didn't they? I wouldn't change the cam or anything. If it's a #'s up car, I'd put a solid lifter cam back in factory specs.
FYI, in Saskatoon, there is a 1979 1 ton Chev with a gravel box on it, and a Corvette aluminum block 427 and 4 speed behind it. John owned it, but it may have changed hands by now. That truck with a load of gravel can still spin the dualies. If I have my story straight, it was ordered that way.
This is exciting to see this LS6 in your shop. I would keep it stock, but its not my engine and leave it solid lifters. The best mechanic is working on it. Thanks Nick!
A couple of words on your 454. This engine has the wrong cylinder heads on it, it should have a closed chamber head. The LS 6 had closed chamber heads as did all Big Blocks until 1971 when they lowered compression on everything. In 1971 Chevy made the first iron open chamber Hi Perf heads available over the counter for the paltry sum of $62.00 bare and they had the same 2.19 intakes but a slightly larger 1.88 exhaust. They were installed on the crate engine LS 7 which was available for many years later. All High Perf Big Blocks had TRW forged pistons as yours does and yours has the correct dimple rods with the 7/16 bolts. The cranks were all forged nitrated cranks on the Hi Perf motors and yours should have a forging number of 7416. There were other engines with steel cranks too but without the nitrating process. The pistons you have are a replacement closed chamber TRW piston with the commercial part number that TRW used not the GM part number as the originals would have had. But they are fine and the same good part so use them if the bore clearance is not too large. Those pistons with the larger chambers of the open chamber heads will provide about a 10-1 ratio but will add 50-60 horsepower over the closed chamber ones so definitely use what you have and will work better with pump gas. The heads are very good and were made for decades later although the casting number changed with the 990 heads being very popular in the 1980's. The difference between Hi perf and lesser Big Blocks was always the cam. Chevy used the same cam in the L78 396, L 72 427, L 71 427 and the LS 6. It was a great street cam. If it had a solid lifter cam then the factory redline on all the tachs in any chevy car was 6500 rpm and it will sail past that very easily. All the others with hydraulic cams were much lower. Only the Hi perf engines got all the good stuff, steel cranks, forged pistons, best rods, 4 bolt mains. etc. The 512 block that you have is also correct and very sought after. It was used for 427 engines as well. Make sure your balancer is correct, 454's are externally balanced as is the flexplate and flywheel. The intake is correct BUT really hurts the top end power where the engine wants to shine. It's a very low rise because the engines were intended for the Corvettes but only a few were made. When the engine was placed in the Chevelle body then there was a spacer about 1 1/2 inches tall on the carb to raise the air cleaner up high enough for it to mate to the cowl induction hood if you remember. Also all Big Block balancers have a tight interference fit and are tough to install and remove. Have fun.
Nick, make sure you check out the rear main cap. Oil pump bolt can sometimes hit the rear main bearing if the bolt is too long. That's why I use the ARP olipump stud.
I have a 1974 LS six Nick we built it about 15 years ago. Original bore same thing you’re doing mine ended up being the thrust bearing. It was interesting watching you. I remember everything about this engine still have it.
I had a lightly modded 1970 Mach 1 351W back in the mid 70’s. It had 3.91 gears with an auto and was pretty quick to about 330’. Worst I ever got beat on the street was by a 1971-72 El Camino with a transplanted ‘70 LS6 454. As if that wasn’t enough the engine had headers, a tunnel ram and 2 Holley 4bbls. We raced from a dig and I was way out on him at 330’ and was still out on him at about the 1/8th mile. And then I heard a sound like I had never heard before. That Elco went by me like I was tied to a tree with that BBC screaming like a Pro Stocker. We went back to the starting line a little later and discovered a super dark pair of fresh black marks about 400’ long left by his N50x15 rear tires. I think my buddy and I drank about a six pack each that night we were so depressed.
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The factory 1970 LS-6's had TRW forged pistons with an advertised compression ratio of 11:1 with the closed chamber rectangle port heads and steel shim head gaskets.The 71's had the same shortblock but open chamber rectangle port heads. Seems to me they had a windage tray as well, but that could have been removed.
You right all aftermarket valve covers are from sling s china
The service replacement Long blocks also had open chamber heads.
The Damper Doctor does a great job on factory number balancers if the owner is concerned about keeping it number matching.
Those poly locks are meant to have the set screw loosened before the nut is turned off the stud, that's why a couple of the studs came out. .
my buddy used to work at a machine shop. he used too tear the engines down all day everyday. never did the heads in any order when removing head bolts,never heard of a warped head from removal. some of these old myths need to be put too bed. i once put a small block chevy together with a 1/2 drive ratchet n extention. no torque pattern our spec on the tightness. the thing ran for years,you would be surprised at how forgiving theseold iron chevy's are!
Nick ain’t too bright
Your the man Nick! I'm a 73 Duster mopar guy! At seventy I have an appreciation for all model cars of that era.
Life is too short not to hate great cars!
a v8? this an engine for a truck,, and ususally its diesel a cheaper fuel and a more efficient engine.. thast why Detroit went bankrupt.. well whatever peoples collect strange stuff:))
he said with carb the distribution is not the same , truwe, but head has just a single cilibnder witl a "whitish" valve, so its nota a carb proble,m
comp cams-- someone was here thats why engine is full of metal shavingas
Going through my big block this winter this video is a great study guide ❤
Hope it helps!
Get rid of that oil bypass valve in the filter mount and there won’t be any contaminants in the bearings. First thing I did on my first engine build.
I haven't done this with new ultra clean builds. I have seen good evidence that the bypass allows way to much oil to bypass the filter. Change your oil frequently to keep it clean.
For insurance proposes,car manufacturer said 450 horse power. But really 475-500 actual h.p
The motor was slated for the 1970 Corvette and rated at 460hp. That never happened, and it was rated at 450hp for the Chevelle. The 'Vette got the LS6 in '71, but with a 9.25-1 compression ratio rated at 425hp. Horsepower rating went to SAE net in '72 and the engine was rated at 325hp. Interestingly enough, the second gen LS6 in the C5 Corvette was rated from 385hp ('01) to 405hp ('02 to '04).
TRW made all of the forged pistons for Chevrolet
where is the twr factory for pistons?
engine machinist
Interesting, the 1970 LS6 454 came with closed chamber rectangular port heads. the heads on that engine looks like 1971 open chamber heads. Heads must of been change at some point. Nick the customer need to find a set of closed chamber heads part number 3964291, If he wants the correct heads for a 70 LS6 454.
Hey Nick.
If you could show viewers the eyebrows on the bottom of the cylinders nearest to crank for the rod clearance. I learned about this when I was young and it is only on 454.
Old days all big blocks looked the same until you turned them over.
Great Job guys!!
Those little scratches in all the bearings will add up the metal count. That block and exhaust manifolds paint was nearly pristine, kinda says not run very long. There should not be any scrapes and pits in those bearings. The combustion chambers color did not look good at all, jet black exhaust valves. That cam did not look good to me at all, hard to see in a video. That one lifter with the squared wear pattern, almost guaranteed the cam lobe it mates to is smoked! Engine ran bad, tune could have been way off. Add all this together and check cylinder wear carefully too.
I looked up the specs on that cam they took out and it's 236/236 @ .050 with 561 lift. That's a fair amount more than stock. If he's just looking to cruise, I would back that off a bit. Coupled with possibly a bad tune, it's not too hard to see why he thought it didn't run very good. Looked way rich from the combustion chambers.
@@JimBronsonIt was probably jetted wrong as well with most people thinking more fuel is always better performance wise but that's not the case because you get fuel wash on the cylinders and piston rings so they wear faster besides worse fuel mileage extra carbon and dirty spark plugs .
I think they might of mixed up the oil sample.
So whoever did the analysis of the engine was lying to the customer.
THAT needs to be addressed. Why would they lie? EH??
I doubt the analysis was a lie. Bearing wear, cam lobe and lifter with a bad wear pattern. That's enough right there.
@@craighansen7594
The analysis said metal parts and copper was found in the oil. There were none.
Now get lost and shut up.
I would not guess they were lying, I would just guess they were used to working with more modern engines and their lower wear metal numbers.
Don't know why Nick and his brother discounted that one lifter that was not turning so fast.
Oil analysis is not done on what the eye sees, unless you can see microscopically. When was this analysis done? How many oil changes ago? Why do both valve covers look brand new inside?
Neither of them took a look at cam bearings. Those heads seemed to have fairly large combustion chambers, almost like the 71 had. This car may be a very late 70 build. They will also want to validate the numbers on the block. Seems a bit odd that the engine has so many new parts like all sheet metal, cam, lifters, springs pistons looked new as well, but the bore size was still standard.
Something seems off to me. I have never been a believer in oil analysis, it always seems to me the results always seems to back the salesman's claims.
What a Beast. So many parts to make that 454 Fly.
Yeah, yet so simple compared to today's engines.
This is the way, this should put some impressive numbers when done. Those pistons look very similar to if not the stock profile.
We shall see!
The oil sample was completely incorrect or it was mixed up with another engine
Those are supposed to be original closed chamber heads on it. It’s not all original…
You are correct.
Great job Nick... looking forward to seeing what this one offers on the dyno ....good content and thanks...🔧🔧👍
I would have liked to have seen the numbers on the oil analysis. Domestic V8s throw a lot more metal on analysis than do Hondas. Iron, aluminum, lead and copper would be most telling. I don't think I would personally condemn an engine based on an oil analysis unless the numbers were over 100PPM for any of the 4 metals I mentioned.
The oil pump housing did look a little worn, but the gears seemed fine.
Give it a light hone, rings, bearings and a new oil pump and throw it back together. Good to go for another 50 years.
Any time you see a piston with L followed by 4 numbers, they are TRW/Speedpro forgings. Also, I think you breezed right over the source of metal that went through the oil pump and was found in the oil testing. I believe it was that one lifter, and you should check the crown on the remaining lifters. They may all be going flat.
Yes, Nick and Manny seem to have forgotten about that at times. It wasn't totally wasted, but the engine doesn't look like it was run very much. The outside looked like a fresh restoration
Good news on this motor, I was worried it would be much worse. I could watch this stuff all day - keep em coming! And thank you to the client and the nicks garage crew for bringing us along
All that dirt in the bearings means the filter wasn’t working, correct? Or too much oil pressure causing the oil to bypass the filter.
Filter or not, shouldn't be that much grit anyway.
Could the oil analysis be detecting the assy lube? Looks fresh. Maybe just a few oil changes. Seems like it still had break in oil.
Everything will be perfect when you go back with a roller cam. It's hard to get a good cam add lifters that will last these days without doing roller.
We all have our favourites, and we may playfully tease with each other, but I think we all agree on EVs😅😅😅
💯
I love our Mach-E, and I love the old iron as well, used to work in a machine shop in the 80s.
Should be full floating pins!
Not pressed
All the way from Oakland, There's hundreds of good engine builders in California!
No kidding and some of them are Chevrolet experts, Nick does Dodge very well but BB Chevy is not his area of expertise.
@@timhughes1801you are absolutely correct. Especially on a matching numbers LS-6 Chevelle. The value in the rebuild would only come from a renowned BBC builder. Or a LS-6 expert.
Each brand had a magnificent motor. You cant put any of them down. Back in the day it was brand loyalty,still is but they each had a bad ass motor to offer.
Nick is spoiled, I remember when he didn't like battery tools.😊😁😁
I am getting used to power tools. It comes with age.
He need that m12 stubby impact with 550 nut busting torque ,twice has small than what he is using ,lol
@@nickpanaritis4122 I am a 67 year old, in my younger days I never used power tools, but as I aged and arthritis set in they help a lot.
that's a strange one im wondering if it was run with no air filter an sucked in a bunch of debris check oil filter if you have it , those are big pistons, great video
I wish you took a better look at the chain and sprockets. They might have been a source of wear metals.
Are those smogger exhaust manifolds? Because of the plugs in the top middle where the smogger motors inject air?
Yes, inject air.
If thats what i think it is its a Comp magnum 282S solid lifter
11-218-4 part number
282-282 advertised duration 236-236 at .050 duration .561in .561ex lift with the factory 1.7 rocker ratio
It has a 110lsa and is ground on a 106 intake centerline
The factory camshaft was 316* advertised duration 242in 242ex at .050 .520-.520 lift and a 114lsa installed on a 108* intake centerline
So if you want easy on parts, mixed with decent power and high detonation tolerance on pump gas the factory specs would work well
The Comp Cam will make more power in the mid range and although will sound pretty lumpy its actually too small imho to replace the factory cam
Personally i would go with a Bullet grind with these specs 296-306 advertised duration 244in 250ex .540-.540 net lift and a 112lsa installed at 108 and 💯 would use Direct Lube solid lifters
I had a Comp 282S solid cam in my 454. Loved it, it just runs out of rpm around 6k. Sounded pretty too.
@@scottthief60 yeah it’s not the worst choice but when you have over 11 to one compression on pump gas you need to bleed off a little bit more cylinder pressure in my opinion
The original camshaft specs are
520 lift I 520 lift e, .242 I .242 E 80 degree overlap
The heads for 1970 ,454 LS 6 are casting,3964291 closed chamber 108cc
Or it can be 3964292 closed chamber 109 cc.
There 2 different closed chamber heads available for 1970
@@DSRE535 correct. I was at 10.4 compression and it worked well for me on premium pump. I put together a 496 with 10.5 compression and that same cam gave up a bit over 50hp vs a 254 duration at .050 custom grind solid cam. That was a pump gas motor when I wasn't spraying it.
The 114 LSA would have taken some of the edge off of the factory cam. I personally like the 4 pattern Comp cams for factory hi performance BBC setups, however, they don't come cheap. For this customer, who owns a numbers matching 70 Chevelle SS and already flew the engine 3000+ miles away and across the border, I assume he's got the jack to put anything in that he wants. I like the 11-615-44 for this application, it will idle better and make more power than stock, as well as pulling hard to 6500 RPM. But I'm sure he's not going to be asking me.
Dr Nick and Professor Manny!! Great tear down. Thanks George 😎👌
Absolutely amazing job! Much appreciated Nick & Crew. A great English to see Ty for all u do! Cheers🥂 to continued success,health & happiness
Thanks so much!
The only drawback the LS6 had was the very low flat as pancake intake .
True.
Always interesting tearing down an engine. They almost always have a surprise or two
I have a full roller setup in my 454 with factory valve covers and single cork gaskets. No spacer or double gaskets.
The owner has the small poly locks to fit under stock covers so keep them
Nice. Enjoy it.
Love the ol 454 Chevy Big Block it is a Legend in it's own Right .
Especially in a Corvette, Chevelle, Camaro .... ol Street Kings too. Big Wave to Mr.Nick ,George, and Manny ...Hope everyone is doing well and happy 😊😊😊❤
A Cobra, 340 Duster, AAR Cuda, Plymouth GTX or RR for back ground candy. If that ain't worth the price of admission.......I don't know what is. They are TRW L2349. When I look them up the description say's they are for a 1970 LS6 Closed Chamber.
COMP Cams Magnum Solid Camshaft 11-219-4
Camshaft, Mechanical Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 294/294, Lift .595/.595, Chevy, Big Block
I bought a used 1970 LS6 Chevelle with the legendary M22 rock crusher tranny and a 4.10 rear axel back in 1971. It was a monster! I was in my mid 20's and the poor tires took a terrible beating. Eventually I installed a factory 454 LS7 12.5 compression create motor and 4.88 gears! Eventually I sold the car for much less than todays prices. Still kick myself for that decision!!
good evening Dr. Nick, good evening George.
Howdy Eric! ❤️
They still sell that cam. It’s a Magnum Solid. 282/282 advertised duration, .561/.561 lift on a 110 lsa. 2000-6000 rpm street cam.
You dont know everything until you take all parts out and inspect closely
The Original cam was a Crane cam GM installed. .520/.520 with .242/.242@.050. The Comp that is installed has. .561/.561 with .236/.236@.050 Both solid flat tappet cams.
Have developed over 100 SBC Gen0/Gen1 engines using David Vizard Engine Math and Pro-Sim software. At 50 yrs old would welcome an opportunity to be an apprentice and learn from an expert proper build either automotive or marine. In Michigan however I am free to move anywhere in the world. Thank you Nick for sharing your knowledge.
It's such a pleasure to watch these old school gentlemen mechanics working together showing such respect for each other, for their tools and for the engine itself. Never a cuss word spoken nor short temper shown or corners cut, you just can't beat it!
I would really love to see this engine on Nick’s dyno once it’s put back together! You don’t see many muscle car engines that are this original. I looked up the cam specs and it is a solid lifter cam with 236/236 @ .050 with 110 LSA. Pretty healthy!
Looking forward to seeing this 454 on the dyno. Will it make the 450 horsepower that GM claimed in 1970?
Edit: spellcheck changed dyno to dunk 🤣
I bet it makes closer to 500hp not 450hp
Factory Compression Ratio is above 11.1 and above. Today's fuel not good enough.
@@nickpanaritis4122 I was wondering how unleaded fuel would impact the factory performance numbers. What do you have to change to make a classic engine run on today’s fuel? Internal parts or just timing?
@@Chainsaw-ASMR ... Cast Iron heads and high C.R. not a friendly driver
It was the first oil change after rebuilt a chorus. You're gonna get that in the oil sample.
Great tear down, diagnosis and culprit found. Nick and Manny or should I say “ Sherlock and Watson! I should say!!
That's a nice setup you got there with the 7/16 rods, I bet it has a steel crankshaft also.
I know what probably happened I seen it done before somebody was lashing the valves and a little piece of something went through the motor and went through the oil pump.. and I bet you they put a can of (engine restorer) in the oil and that's where all the metal particles brass copper and everything is showing up in the oil that was tested..🏁👍🏁
It would be nice if we can open up the oil filter and see ..but strange case
@@gulfy09 ....No oil filter came with the engine.
When putting it together someone didn’t clean it again. Be nice to find out. The oil sheet page would give me a heart attack to. I think it was a good idea to send it to you also. Hard to find good people to work on your stuff. I don’t trust anyone in my area.
I would be asking the owner how the oil sample was taken & who took it. Was it taken with a proper oil sample suction gun with a new hose & bottle? Was it taken from the oil stream as it was draining from the pan or was it dipped from the drain pan afterwards? I suspect the sample got contaminated somehow! The internals of that engine look way too good for that oil sample report!!
I grew up in the seventies and when I was a kid there was a guy in the neighborhood that had one of those cars and I remember it being ridiculously fast I Road in the car as a kid and I remember it having trouble getting hooked up Just Tires Spin Tire spin talk about fun that brings back a lot of very fond old memories from when I was a kid
Those where some rough scratches oil pump internal of housing from grit in oil and also got a little bit to bearings. Easy fix.
Kalimera palikari. BBC tear down. What a treat. Here we go
Right on! Here we GO!
Love it!!!
Thank you Nick
I have done many!
I wonder how long they ran this engine with the break in oil when this engine was built
180 degrees thermostats are correct temperature for performance + non perf blocks, I really don’t know what car mfg really use 160 temperature thermostats.
180 & 195 degree thermostats were used on a lot of the smog motor engines so they ran hotter because of emissions reasons to help burn the hydro carbons and make the cats burn more efficient. You can run a cooler thermostat but if the engines isn't run that much & doesn't get hot sludge can start to form and the oil should be changed more frequently. I just changed the intake manifold to a performance dual plane weiand stealth and took the 195 thermostat out & put a 175 so it runs cooler with the HD 4 core radiator because it has no emissions at all & I can tell a difference in power and off idle full throttle pulls in the truck by quite a bit 1 because the engine isn't running as hot especially in our hot humid summer weather besides the other intake manifold is a much better design that has better torque and HP from off idle to 7,800 RPMs . I change my oil pretty often because it also gets used in the winter to plow my driveway so the engine is very clean inside then when winter is over and spring hits I change the oil and filter again because I enjoy driving the truck at times in the spring summer months at times .
The correct Tstat will keep the water in the rad long enough to cool. The 160 stat would never close and stay open as a restriction.
Chevy's got a better idea it's 440 Mopar I'm kidding around if it's cool I like them all have a great
Ls6 also known as the Hemi killer!!!😊
Them's fighting words! 😉👍
mmmm no.
Everything that’s not a Hemi is hyped as a Hemi killer. That’s how you know a Hemi the best.
@@NicksGarageLOL But Nick they did, LOL 😂 👍
Chevele 454 probably in the top5 most desirable American Muscle Car along with anything with a 426 HEMI.
1970 454 LS6 all had Forged pistons, crank, rods...4 bolt mains
I like the tear down video's, let's see what's in side ..
Awesome. Hope you like this one.
Was there a box to check labelled " Humungous Big Radiator" ? LOL
Manny getting spoiled to, I remember when he didn't like battery tools either.😊😊😊
Some of the 454 Ls had aline bore that was off.i new age that had one it had to be done 2 times before thay found out line bore off did a line bore done it was good .
Looks like engine had exxxtended oil changes.😢
Had a ls5 in my 70 caprice classic rated at 390 hp was way more but never dyno'ed
Another great Show thanks Nick-Manny-and of course George !❤!
Mine was a failed cam. Filled the motor with metal. Thank you for what you do Nick
Interesting that it has 026 heads rather than 291 heads. More like 10.1 compression probably.
I think you are correct. 291 were on the 70 engine.
@@randyslatton3945 This must be a 71 engine, they dropped the compression for 71. HP dropped from 450 to 425.
@Musclecar1972 Would it still have that intake in 71 or would it have the 163 intake?
@@randyslatton3945 I wish I could tell you, mine was a 1970, as was my friend’s, I thought the only difference would have been the compression, and some tuning for the lower compression, but honestly I can’t say for sure. I’ve never actually seen a 71 LS-6 plenty of 70 cars though. The carb on the 71 was a Holley 780 from what I’ve heard, on the 70 it was an 800 cfm, but again, I’m not speaking from personal observation.
@@Musclecar1972 , the Corvette was the only car that had an LS6 454 in 1971.
The grey appearance of the oil describes what the note from the owner indicates. Those rod bearing do not look good, while not looking terrible.
There is nothing major wrong with the engine, BECAUSE the owner has done the right thing and chose to have it rebuilt before catastrophic damage took place. This is how all engine owners should be and it makes your job, and the machine shop job easier.
But this engine is definitely ready for a rebuild. Things to not have to look like a disaster for the engine to be ready for a rebuild.
I did hit the like button Manny! A very interesting video guys on that big block bow tie!
Big blocks rule!
hi nick good tear down on the engine it nice to see manny aka elvis helping you out. next time when he with you to sing you a elvis song ha ha .
just put it back together ,, how many miles dose this guy plan on driving it ,,, look good for another 100.000 , As long as you dont beat on it allday at the race track :) and why replace standard bar piston? The piston`s in a california engine have less compression, pollution law`s of the day,, I knotist the air pump holes plug off, california had air pumps as early as 1970
My California 67 cougar 390 4speed car I've had for the last 47 years had a smog pump
Who else here, knowing what we know now, wishes they could go back to 1970 with unlimited funds and buy a few muscle cars? You know Nick is trusted when a customer ships him an engine like this to work on! Go Nick! 👍🏻
Great Job Nick and Manny! Pumped for the update on this engine.
Awesome video a lot of cool information keep them coming and see you Friday
Nick, oil has the highest lubricity/lowest friction ability in an engine at 195 to just over 200 degrees...even 180 is too cold for max power potential. Thoughts?
awesome
Thanks for watching.
Comp Cam 11 218-4 with 236/236 duration at .050 .561 lift so it is close to a factory LS6 cam.
I did my first engine (SB Chevy) when I was 17 in 1981. It was fairly low miles but an oil burner. Re-ring and bearing, new cam, lifters and timing chain, valve job. dingle ball hone on the std bore. It appeared the machine shop did not take out the galley plugs. I did wash the block when I got it back. Spun a rod at 20,000 miles. Next engine, I pulled all the plugs myself and put the new ones in. You can never be too clean.
Maybe Somebody got the Oil samples Mixed up with another Man's Engine. Because That Block seems to Be in great shape, for its Age. Da Blind Cajun. P.
This is much better than those scripted "expert teardowns" in a pristine shop ..Thanks for keeping it real and great analysis and commentary !
Wow, thanks!
New T-shirt idea torque is your freind!
My ultimate dream car.
1970 LS6 SS Chevelle. 450hp underrated.
A Hemi Cuda' or Boss 429 wouldn't be bad either. 😁
Copper? Aluminum?
Is it possible they got the wrong 454 oil results?
The older bearings had copper lining, didn't they?
I wouldn't change the cam or anything. If it's a #'s up car, I'd put a solid lifter cam back in factory specs.
That looks exactly like my Snap On breaker bar.
An 8 billion dollar shop and a $59.95 engine stand.... :)
If it works that's fine
I agree with you.
FYI, in Saskatoon, there is a 1979 1 ton Chev with a gravel box on it, and a Corvette aluminum block 427 and 4 speed behind it. John owned it, but it may have changed hands by now. That truck with a load of gravel can still spin the dualies. If I have my story straight, it was ordered that way.
I drove it twice and was told not to punch it. Both times.
Whatever you Nick, and you likely know, if decking needed make sure the VIN and code stamps are retained. Otherwise major value loss.
I am aware of it. Thank you.
Oil pump housing looks like it's not flat going by the tell tails of the mating surfaces. That will cause it to suck air.
Open chamber casting #’s are either 990 or 188
This is exciting to see this LS6 in your shop. I would keep it stock, but its not my engine and leave it solid lifters. The best mechanic is working on it. Thanks Nick!
Thank you.
A couple of words on your 454. This engine has the wrong cylinder heads on it, it should have a closed chamber head. The LS 6 had closed chamber heads as did all Big Blocks until 1971 when they lowered compression on everything. In 1971 Chevy made the first iron open chamber Hi Perf heads available over the counter for the paltry sum of $62.00 bare and they had the same 2.19 intakes but a slightly larger 1.88 exhaust. They were installed on the crate engine LS 7 which was available for many years later. All High Perf Big Blocks had TRW forged pistons as yours does and yours has the correct dimple rods with the 7/16 bolts. The cranks were all forged nitrated cranks on the Hi Perf motors and yours should have a forging number of 7416. There were other engines with steel cranks too but without the nitrating process. The pistons you have are a replacement closed chamber TRW piston with the commercial part number that TRW used not the GM part number as the originals would have had. But they are fine and the same good part so use them if the bore clearance is not too large. Those pistons with the larger chambers of the open chamber heads will provide about a 10-1 ratio but will add 50-60 horsepower over the closed chamber ones so definitely use what you have and will work better with pump gas. The heads are very good and were made for decades later although the casting number changed with the 990 heads being very popular in the 1980's. The difference between Hi perf and lesser Big Blocks was always the cam. Chevy used the same cam in the L78 396, L 72 427, L 71 427 and the LS 6. It was a great street cam. If it had a solid lifter cam then the factory redline on all the tachs in any chevy car was 6500 rpm and it will sail past that very easily. All the others with hydraulic cams were much lower. Only the Hi perf engines got all the good stuff, steel cranks, forged pistons, best rods, 4 bolt mains. etc. The 512 block that you have is also correct and very sought after. It was used for 427 engines as well. Make sure your balancer is correct, 454's are externally balanced as is the flexplate and flywheel. The intake is correct BUT really hurts the top end power where the engine wants to shine. It's a very low rise because the engines were intended for the Corvettes but only a few were made. When the engine was placed in the Chevelle body then there was a spacer about 1 1/2 inches tall on the carb to raise the air cleaner up high enough for it to mate to the cowl induction hood if you remember. Also all Big Block balancers have a tight interference fit and are tough to install and remove. Have fun.
Nick, make sure you check out the rear main cap. Oil pump bolt can sometimes hit the rear main bearing if the bolt is too long. That's why I use the ARP olipump stud.
I have a 1974 LS six Nick we built it about 15 years ago. Original bore same thing you’re doing mine ended up being the thrust bearing. It was interesting watching you. I remember everything about this engine still have it.
That is one heavy engine sitting on top the front suspension. Reminds me of my 66 427 vette. Lots of torque but also produced tons of heat.
I had a lightly modded 1970 Mach 1 351W back in the mid 70’s. It had 3.91 gears with an auto and was pretty quick to about 330’. Worst I ever got beat on the street was by a 1971-72 El Camino with a transplanted ‘70 LS6 454. As if that wasn’t enough the engine had headers, a tunnel ram and 2 Holley 4bbls. We raced from a dig and I was way out on him at 330’ and was still out on him at about the 1/8th mile. And then I heard a sound like I had never heard before. That Elco went by me like I was tied to a tree with that BBC screaming like a Pro Stocker. We went back to the starting line a little later and discovered a super dark pair of fresh black marks about 400’ long left by his N50x15 rear tires. I think my buddy and I drank about a six pack each that night we were so depressed.