The single mod SPD they didn’t tell us about!!!
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Preparing Consumer unit. Does it save you time and money rather than doing it on the job?
Il still have to install glands for cable entry and other various modifications.
10% discount at consumer unit world on all accessories and Fusebox range CJR10
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Thanks for watching
Instagram follow me please I’m desperate.
/ cjrelectrical
This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate this video in any way.
must admit i prefer the talking episodes of this dramatic tale
What I liked about this video is that a picture paints a thousand words and moving pictures even better. I could see how everything was fitting together and not have any audio anoying anyone else in the room. Keep the videos coming and some merit having no sound. Cheers Chris 👍👍👍
Top tip - if fitting the tail gland on the bottom of the board like that do yourself a favour and bin the rubber . They are far too tight so if you are struggling do without it you will achieve in excess of required IP2X. You really don’t need the ip68 that it provides with the rubber inserted !
No problem reading your upside down caption - reading upside down is a trick I learnt sitting opposite my boss!
Haha at the paper no doubt.
@@Cjrelectrical What is your level of qualification?
@jordan Kai he’s a qualified plumber
Its so nice not having to deal with neutral tails with newer panels here in the US. With both the hot and neutral having plug in neutrals, so those are just wired into the breaker and plugged in, connection done. Heck Leviton has gone one step farther in that no wires go to the breakers anymore and they are simply inserted into the panel to complete the circuit. They can be fully wired during the rough in phase (1st fix) and then during final install (2nd fix) all that is done to activate the circuit is plug the breaker in which can be standard (MCB), AFCI, GFCI or combo AFCI/GFCI breakers. Makes the install clean and not having to deal with the breaker tails anymore.
Interesting development by Leviton. ? Are you saying that simply unplugging a breaker from a board
isolates both the hot and also neutral conductor of the outgoing cable associated with that breaker?
@@oldbutstillcurious3615 Yes that is correct. Pulling the breaker will cut out the neutral as well, as all slots are setup for AFCI/GFCI breakers. With the newer 2020 code just about every breaker will be AFCI and many now including a good selection of the 240V ones will be GFCI as well in any damp/wet areas.
@@Chris_In_Texas nice to hear how other countries do things, out of interest how much is an AFCI/GFCI breaker where you’re from?
@@Chris_In_Texas Thanks for the update, much appreciated.
I like spacing modules to reduce temperature build up, but using whole body blanks to do it limits the benefit. I think they should make those in a skeleton format that allows more ventilation between modules.
love this idea, wont be long before someone 3d printing them
That was a serious case of ASMR mate lol
👌🏻
@@Cjrelectrical What is your level of qualification?
Y dont james wirk with andy?
Enjoyed that matey like the demos it helps us less experienced guys 👍
Might seem a good idea but from experience you can’t fit a board fully or part populated and make a good or quick job out of it . As I’m sure Chris knows it’s best to strip the board bare , get your knockouts and cable management , grommets and glands in place, then get your final circuits, meter tails earth and bonds in, dress your cpc,s then put your din rail in, and in an all rcbo board install and terminate one device at a time. That’s what I do anyway !
We shall see this board is being installed
@@Cjrelectrical cool will be interested to see how you get on. The Compact rcbo’s will be a help. Look forward to watching that one ☝️
Yep, I do the same.
Only just seen this, well done James, Chris is a good boss with logic and common sense.
Nice on the "please check screws after installing" because pretty much every time I go into a panel half the screws are loose, or just not tight, so half the flickering light issues vanish with that check. Yes to the spacers, nothing worse than looking at the panel, and wanting to put one more breaker in, and having to play breaker roulette to move them all one space over, and finding that one breaker that is wired with an exact length of wire, and it will not move, so you have to play leap frog over it.
Or open the panel, and the council sparktrician has been in there, and decided that breakers are not needed, so fed the incoming mains in to the bottom of the RCD, and used the isolator instead to feed a circuit. Good thing there was the main 100A breaker right below it, with it's loose screws, and no cover either. Tightened them up as well, but the meter is just going to have to stay as is, there they actually used a seal.
Early preparation is good... this looks like a classic case of PPPPPP ... Perfect Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance
Ready for the kitchen fitter to throw it in for you 👍🏻
The best video you’ve done you can usually hear you blowing your own trumpet 🎺
He plays a good tune, in my opinion.
This isn't a statement just towards you Chris and anyone feel free to chip in.
I've been watching you and the other electrician 'stars' for some time now, so I have seen the progression and fads flow through the scene.
By that I mean everyone starting to use things like wagos, ferrules and also flexi tails.
Some do it right, some do it wrong. i.e. ferrules are meant for fine stranded cables, but some seem to think they are needed on things like 6mm and 10mm twin. Yes they are stranded conductors, but not FINE stranded.
Anyway to the point...... Flexi Tails. Now I've never used flexi tails personally, but I can only imagine they are so flexible because they are fine stranded. Yet no-one is putting ferrules on them??? Surely they should be ferruled. Discuss
Cheers for the content btw. Lve a bit of CJR, ok.
Your correct everyone man and his dog is even fitting them on 10mm solid stranded twin and earth. They are indeed only for fine stranded like on the rcbo fly leads. It also doesn’t say you can’t put them on other cables ie solid stranded does look neater. Flexi tails are still solid just more inner cores.
Most incomers etc have proper clamp terminals so the copper will generally form itself into a good fit compared to where wires go into busbars etc that rely on the screw tip which generally just pushes the wires to the sides. I have used crimps where flexi tails go into Henley type blocks that rely on screw tips rather than having proper clamps.
@@Cjrelectrical Cheers for the reply mate. Just actually looked at flexis on TLC website and they are 19 strand, so each core i guess is about 1.3mm on 25mm tails. I have visioned them to be like tri-rated stuff, but like you say, they aren't that fine really. Thanks again bud
For me, if they're being tightened down with a screw rather than a clamp type fitting they are always getting ferruled regardless of size. That's how they do it on the continent and it's much neater and stops the strands flailing out.
Excellent tutorial, straight to the point 👍. More of these please 🤗
This comment section has had me in stitches 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Chris’s level of sarcasm is fantastic
Just when I though your videos couldn't get any better... Then you do one without talking 👍🏻
Joking!
Wiha LiftUp electric 6 in one, my fav tool. Together with the Wiha LiftUp 26one and a few pliers/ratchets/sockets/knifes what I have on me all day.
As for a industrial electrician the 6 in 1 pop up is a crap tool not up to dayly abuse
Any good electrician would no that single pole module spd's are out there 😂😂😂😂 ❤️❤️❤️ you man
For youtube kid
@@Cjrelectrical joking with you 😉😉😉
I know
Fitted my first one the other day , everything was great except the rcbo , found when tightening the grub screw onto line and neutral cable the rcbo felt weak and distorted and even broke . The Hager doesn’t do that !!!
Yes I was using a torque screwdriver.
First time I’ve heard that
I've had issues with the tripping times on these boards had to return a couple of RCDs a year or so back, I made no circuit alterations, just replaced the RCDs with new, trip times were then fine when then tested. These were new installations with no loads applied.
@@Cjrelectrical I've not used the fusebox mini RCBOs yet, but find the same thing on many I have used, have to squeeze the device to stop it coming apart when tightening the screw.
@@Mattja1 that’s exactly what I experienced.
Anyway I gave them a chance but for the sake of a few quid I’m going back to Hager , they never fail in any department
I did hear from my wholesaler yesterday Hager prices are going up 10% cos of brexit . I hope everyone who voted to leave 4 years ago is happy now 🤬
I know those as bootlace lugs, ferruls I know as the crimp connectors we use to use between two cables. Why do you not use a hydraulic crimper and pin lugs on the 16mm^2 and above and heat-shrink? Takes a bit longer but make for a much nicer finish and more secure.
Hopefully not long until RCBO boards with Line and Neutral bus bar come along and get rid of those fly leads😁
We can only hope.
thanks a really clear video i appreciated just showing, and typed instructions and no chat...
Nice, good info here for anyone looking at a Fusebox SPD board. Thanks.
Can’t see the point in putting blanks in between the rcbo’s looks much better all in one line with blanks at the end. Also why trim neutral fly leads, just loose excess behind main switch.
That "clunk" sound as they go in is very satisfying 😎
Was it a Sponsored silence Chris day?😂
The silence of the lamps
Loving the ASMR vibe you got going on in some of your videos!
Thanks for the content. I didn’t realise you could shorten the fly leads, someone told me you aren’t supposed to but i don’t see why it would be an issue.
Spoken to technical it’s fine to shorten the length as long as you use a suitable crimp on the end.
Personally I think is completely unnecessary to shorten them, but each to their own.
Ha, the Marcel Marceau of the electrical world! 👍🏼
But great stuff and great boards, would like to see a magnet on the lid !
Not 100% sure how true this is, but think the metal lid is supposed to close automatically in order to maintain fire integrity.
I guess the theory is that if the lid was held open a fire could escape through the plastic breakers & blanks.
You are correct
@@TheMattSturgeon doesn't really matter, I have seen boards with the cover hinged on the side and some that drop down
I bought a pack of small magnets from eBay that I leave on each board, not sure how long they will be there for though, until someone moves them 😂
Yeah, Schneider does that with their boards, adds a little magnet. Which is not a bad idea, but that’s because their boards are hinged down. On this type of board you don’t need any magnets, but again, it’s not a bad idea.
Not sure amperage is a UK term for the current rating of a device.
Thanks John your comment is most helpful.
Good Job Chris, thanks once again for the brilliant demo😊 I hope you sleep well at night,🤣 I've done my part.👍🏼
found this very relaxing to watch! great video!
Interesting video to see you build it all up in detail, but a bit odd without the usual commentary. How do the dummy modules compare on price with standard blanks? Do the benefits justify the extra cost?
Well done chaps great content useful tips
Great video chris,
This is how you do it.
Trying to branch out into the ASMR game are we Chris? 😂
Yes hopefully
I like spot the difference competitions soooooo
The neutral rcbo connections look to be a couple of position out, first one on the left should have been in position15 surely?
A very very small amount of cable pulling gel on the tails make pushing them into the gland a bit easier
13th cct breaker = neutral terminal 13. But shouldn't the manufacturer fitted SPD's neutral be in neutral terminal 1?
@@paulg6858 depends where you start counting, its an a8 bay board plus the spd which has its neutral in the scond N, then count from there 1 and 2 are the main switch's terminals?
Slightly strange question, the position of the SPD, does it have to be where it is or can it be anywhere along the DB? I know having it there looks nice however I’ve had occasions where putting it at the other end or where there is a spare way would make the instal easier.
Chris, Not speaking is creeping me out, I keep expecting Christopher Lee to jump out and say " BOO!"...
Thought I'd accidently clicked on a @my mechanics video with the gentle sliding of parts across the table. Nice video Chris. Cheers.
Do you sleep upside down then?😄
Looks like good kit, why do you like Fusebox Chris?
It’s the most cost effective spd rcbo consumer unit on the market
@@Cjrelectrical i am buying Lewden and its cheaper from my wholesaler
Cool
I'm using contactum boards at the moment, comparable prices and made in the UK ( apparently)
@@richardbushnell1065 I've used lewden and fusebox and I think the latter is far superior imo
Very moody, almost silent Chris....great idea to plan ahead while you are catching up on the soaps, Cheers useful as always.
Nice video Chris👍also what screw driver was you using ?
Great work and thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
Excellent presentation
I like your change of video, very nice
One thing that I find missing on most of the basic board designs is that I would prefer to see a fixing on the busbar cover so that it doesn't drop out & is more of a definite action when removing it.
Yeah even the really old modular boards had screws on the cover.
To be fair the bus bar covers in these boards are in quite firmly, they are not like most of the others.
Cat got your tongue Chris? Seriously though, enjoyed the watch
You made me buy that 6 in 1 whia for my test bag, your such a little influncer, lol. My 5 year old thinks it's amazing. Be nice if they done a tourqe setting one, They call it vario. Anyhow, thanks for the tinitus.
No such word as AMPERAGE. Current rating!!!! I would have got a right bollocking when I was at college for using that term
Those Wiha drivers look the part but the plastic holders inside break after 3 months. I gave up after 3 broken ones.
Ahh that’s a shame mate mines been good as gold.
Someone should get you a sonic screwdriver. Who you say. Call the doctor as the cat it seems has got your tongue
Great video thanks!
Why can't we have twin busbar boards. One line one neutral? Would get rid of the bloody flying neutral leads, making a much neater board.
Yeah would be nice but room is tight
They can do it in France. Why not here?
2 busbars offset on the bottom of the breakers. I was fitting A type Rcd's there 10 years ago.
We are a little behind the times in this country
@@chriskirby3337 In Belgium also .. we don't have neutral bars . Al dual pole brakers .. crazy how smal fuseboards are in uk .. we need at least 2x the size ..even more .. since we never used the stupid ring circuits .. all radials here on 20A type A MCB
you can get them from sbstradesales
@@chriskirby3337 Can confirm. In France, 2 bus bars straight into the mcb's fed by the tails coming from the meter. Very easy, much quicker, much neater. UK has a very weird way of doing things including rings mains.
Hello, what device is this on the left side of the Rcbos? I live in Brazil and I don't know this device. Thank you very much.
What do you mean the ferruls don't work???
Great video Chris :
Two observations:
1. I'm not a fan of the rcbo spacing,... looks a bit d/p isolator...ish...( could be deceiving to the " end user ").. hey ho., just me..
2. Missed your vocal commentary
Very nice vid mate.
Nice video Chris, but I was taught that you shouldn't twist the strands together when fitting ferrules on wires, they should follow their lay in the wire as much as possible.
Why? We're only talking a few mm so what difference would it make?
Not sure how good an idea this video is considering you talk about the rubbish work ‘DIY’ people have done & this is near enough a full walkthrough for them? Not criticising like just a point 👍🏻
Good god Chris is this video in tribute to the late great Charlie Chaplin 😃
Love that screwdriver. Where do you get it from?
I had the same question but I think I found it, seems to be the Wiha Lift Up (ref. SB 283109021, you can find it on Amazon it's the article B00GY0Z45G)
Lol you put the company name I work for in the thumb nail
TheRelaxingEnd
Estupendo trabajo, Saludos
Why do they all have blue wire attached. I aint a sparky. So no clue. Just my fuse box at home does not look like this. All the neutrals are in a line at top. Whats gan on please
Is there a colour coding system to ferruls?
Yes at the very least french and German colours
Cat got your tongue 👅
Wish they would make the neutral leads more rigid to dress even better
I took all the neutrals behind the tails clamp and zippy tie them to the neutral going from the bottom of the main switch to the neutral busbar looks exceptionally neat
Chris have you lost your voice?? I’ve fitted a couple of the new single module SPD FuseBox consumer units over the last couple of weeks can’t fault the quality of the boards and the RCBO’s are very consistent with trip times
Lol some one almost told us about the single mods.. im sure Bundy got one ahead of the main launch.
Do you find that buying 3m tail packs works? I'd sooner buy 10m of each which could might do 6 or 7 boards and it cuts down on waste
Edit: I don't prep mine in advance apart from checking I've got all the bits. I realise that time at home on the bench is always easier than time on site; I'm not quick on site but I do have a penchant for getting things absolutely spot on, and with a board change I find you never quite know the best way to do things until you're in the middle of it
Yeah love the 3m packs stops you going over length 🤣
Like the spacers, so much more aesthetically pleasing.
Helps with heat and also gives the next guy a chance to put his rcbo in without having to shuffle things around. As my personal preference is to have the highest loads nearer the main switch.
They are better than a load of unused breakers, that is really annoying when people do that.
Yeah especially when it’s not labeled and the client turns them all on.
Why do you leave inner insulation showing when terminating tails? I see this all the time and just wondered.
Gives an easy visual check on correct phase identification. And of course makes them more flexible for the tight turn into the isolator.
I do like that screwdriver. I will be googling for one, i presume its a torque type. Shame cats got your tougue. Video is never right without speach
Neither like or Dislike this Video 🤣😂 Why have you left so much Copper showing on the Neutral Tail?
No copper showing when I watched it...
new name for you chris ( The Silent Monk )
I think the new fusebox units have dropped in quality slightly, do you ?
I hate the new cover especially
No if anything the fit better and don’t leave that little 2mm gap now on the last mcb/rcbo
@@Cjrelectrical it’s the flap that bugs me. I used to like the lip that was easy to grab. Now you need nails to open it 😀
Screw a door handle on it?
@@Cjrelectrical 🙄 I’m not having a go you know Chris 😂 I fit them still.... even used your code once 👀😂
Yeah I know mate just banter
Can those dummy mcbs be easily removed/refitted when the busbar is on? If so then putting one in front of the middle screw on the din rail would enable a fully loaded din rail to be removed/refitted to make installing the tails easier.
Yeah they come out easily just push down the din rail clip
that vde screwdriver is cool as F **K
nice
I disagree with your comment with the smaller boot lace crimp, same size of cable on all RCBO's from the manufacturer.
Nope check again the pvc is thicker on the 6amp meaning the copper is smaller. I bet you £50.
@@Cjrelectrical Looks like you got me on that one, happy to be educated and save £50
But I will check and stick by the magnet for the lid.
Cheers
I would love to know how many people flip their laptops over? And how many read it upside down? And how many people watching on phones and equivalent rotated it around and around and around........
Though you were going to tell us something interesting about spd I'll never get that 12.09 back🙄🙄🙄🙄😕😕😕
Yes it’s single mod
I don't believe that was really you, I reckon you employed a hand stand in. His stripping ability was to good.
Budget box
Y dont james work with andy?
Nice video. What type of driver was that you were using?
Just a wiha multi for initial installation
I only ever use MK
Good luck with that, they stopped making consumer units last year
hope you getting some pennies i been using your code for a while now :) cheeeers
I wouldn't fit anything into the board until all the holes were drilled , cables glanded etc and it was on the wall . Any dust or metal swarf could get into the rcbo's or the switch . Also if you have slack on the twin cables I would put the heaviest circuits next to the switch. That's just my preference
Yeah I agree only saving grace there’s no holes to drill in metal only knock the pre pressed holes out and for brick dust I can mark and remove before drilling.
@@Cjrelectrical ? Vacuum plus straight nozzle, folded thin cardboard over adjacent electrics ?
Suddenly so speachless? Did you lost your Voice for a while?
Yeah
Screwdriver???? Want one 😊
Urgh! Silent unboxings... the scourge of UA-cam!
Better to bend tails to shape before cutting.
Easiest way is to strip them, bend them to shape and then trim them straight before connecting
hey chris can u give me a link to that screwdriver that u use in the video? thanks
What is your level of qualification?
Wanted to know as an aspiring electrician.
I’ve got a provisional licence
Hahah and he has a yellow belt 😅😅😅