I just added pods and your new videos are the best I've found for getting down into the carbs. Thanks a lot for making these. It was still a nightmare for a first timer, but I was able to ride at the end of the same day I performed the work!
Thank you so much for this video! Didn't think I'd be up to the task but your instructions saved me from having to send the carbs off for a rebuild! Top notch!
Some copper wire from some old earbuds make a good scrub for some of the smaller openings. Knowledge like what is shown here in this video is priceless. Much respect to those who take the time to teach. The word "doctor" derives from a Roman word docēre which means to teach.
I was going to come down into the comments and type out a long thank you, and praise you for the great and thorough, informative video, but there are many great comments down here already, so I won't bother. Subscribed!
Great videos, going to tear my 1100 down this weekend and do this. Last time I had it runningn it would run with throttle on but would not idle, so I'm pretty sure the carbs are the culprit.
Just a warning as it's not mentioned but the main jet nozzle inside of the carb where the needle sits into, it can fall out and both of mine did, i ended up needing to spend £50 as i lost one
My 1100 has set for around 2 years. Should I order a rebuild kit or just try to clean everything up. Only thing I worry about is if I need rubber orings and won’t have them when I take it apart .. great videos. Very informative. Thank you!!! Also only way I can get my bike to crank is direct shot of starting fluid into the cylinder. So no fuel is coming through the carbs.
The video series on carb cleaning is very informative. 1st time doing so and you explained everything step by step. Thanks for making the series. When I was taking apart the 2nd carb. While I was trying to get the washer and bevelled oring from the needle. I had the carb turned upside down. While tapping the carb I had a brass collar fall out somewhere. I couldn't figure out where. Also had a chrome clooar fall out from the piece that had the screw that screws inside the #8 wrench one. Noticed end over end it was different. One end had normal other had cupped. Not sure which end goes in 1st. Any ideas.
for a great tutorial. I will tackle this project on my 04 v-star 1100 custom in February. One question - once you assemble the carbs back in the bike after this thorough cleaning, is there any adjustments or balancing you need to do or should they be good to go so long as the bike was running OK before the fuel issues crept in - if so, do you have any videos on how to do the adjustments? Also, how about any info on setting the idle speed? Thanks again.
Hey Retro, I got a question, the carbs on the V-Star 1100 one carb has a 115 Main Jet, the other is a 112.5 Main Jet. Which one goes where, as I cleaned all the jets at the same time, now rebuilding them I find out that main jets are different. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Your videos on Yamahas are so thorough, I really enjoy them. Thanks
Well I just went ahead and jumped right into this after looking at your videos and some others. Figure I can't do much more harm since my bike was dying if choke wasn't on full. Carbs look pretty clean so far, maybe it was just bad gas. However as I hope to finish up the clean/rebuild tomorrow I'm at a loss of how exactly the best way to sync the carbs will be? I've been watching a few video and I think I can probably make a manometer, but I'm confused how to properly get fuel to carbs while I do the testing if the tank needs to be off, etc. I'm going to probably follow your oil change and valve clearance videos while I have things off as best as I can... but do you have a video that explains how to dynamically resync the carbs on the 1100 (preferable without expensive tools)? Thanks so much!
I need help, when removing the brackets from the "2nd carb" rebuild. Started disassembly and I had a maybe a 5/16 sleeve fall out. Unable to figure out where it came from. Almost like a locating pin you would find on a primary crankcase. Any help would be appreciated.
Good day to u. Really like your videos, I have access to a carb soaking pail, other than the wiring what else would I remove. The other, I was going to go with the pods. I was told I'd lose performance using them. How do u find the performance. Any fall backs. Thanks for your time.
Where can I find a replacement for the 3 electrical connectors that go connected to the bottoms of the carbs. I notice that my bike was missing this when I took the carbs out?
Thank you for your detailed videos. They are awesome. I followed your instructions pretty much to the letter, and I got everything back together with your other video’s help and got it running, but it seems to be running rich. What should I check first?
I have a feeling you are a Professional Mechanic or a Professor of Mechanics. 😁 Your video is very detailed like no others. Very well done! Which Professional skill level you are a Master in? If I may ask sir.
Jordan, you are amazing. My 2000 VSTAR 1100 has been sitting for a couple of months, and wouldn't turn over it was making a clunking sound when starting. So I changed out my starter clutch, the old one was seized. I start the bike up and it was popping like a 22 rifle and would only run at full choke else it stalled out. I thought I screwed up the timing but my brother convinced me its the carbs and not the timing, because I followed the video replacement of the SC to the letter. I do believe the carbs need a rebuild and a thorough cleaning. After watching your videos, you give me confidence to try this myself. I am retired so I will do it soon. Thanks again. Will they need to be synchronized?
In my last reply I forgot to ask you about the fuel/air mixture needle. When this goes back in if it is out of adjustment from it's proper setting does this get fine tuned with a engine tach to bring it back to it's proper setting.
What is the proper way to set my fuel air mixture screw as I have not did this. Also have you used a ultra sonic machine to clean chromed motorcycle parts.
Hey man, so i have a small brass washer left ofer afer taking apart my carb.. needless to say it still won't start.. it's about 2 mm long and maybe a centimeter in diameter any idea where it goes?
I have followed your directions and cleaned out my carbs on my wife’s 04 V-Star 1100. I also had the same exact 2 jets blocked that you had. I did not open up the PMS screws as they were under the caps. I also synchronized the bike after re-assembly. The bike now runs and idles with no issue but as speed picks up throttle response becomes very slow and I feel like after 45 mph the bikes struggles to gain speed. On deceleration the bikes coughs and spits a bit (misses) etc. I need to do a PMS clean and adjustment but I have the stock screws and caps. First, what is the factory numbers of turns I should start with once the PMS is lightly seated and also, where can I find PMS extended screws so I can make the adjustments without having to pull the carbs to make minor fine tuning adjustments? I would appreciate your help as my dealer and local parts place are no help whatsoever.
At 14:52 you are holding the frame and there is the small port that you are pushing carb cleaner through...what is that? I ask because that is where my vstar 1100 is leaking gas. What is the cause?
Getting ready to r and r engine, tomorrow carbs come off, good timing for me to do before reinstalling, as well as check valve clearance on the used create engine while carbs are on standby
Factory jets I believe were 110/112. The Maxair kit provides several jet options (determined by exhaust flow). My 1100 ended up using 140/142 sized jets. The larger oh the rear cylinder (which runs a tad hotter).
Wonderful job on the carbs !! This will help me a lot in overhauling the Mikunis. Just one question please: I would like to place the carbs into an ultrasonic cleaner. How should I protect the electric throttle sensor, when the carburetor housing goes into the bath ?
I have a separate series on comprehensive cleaning and disassembly with re-calibration. Its for a 650, though the procedure is similar for TPS. ua-cam.com/video/3aJ8naCbegE/v-deo.html
@@retrotechandelectronics Thanks a million Sir ! So the only thing I have to do, is to measure on both contacts (plus and minus) and turning the sensor, until the ohmmeter shows up to 720 ohms. Thats all ? Doesn`t sound too complicated to me. On my BT 1100 there is a set of Mikuni BST 37 carbs, are 720 ohms correct for them as well ?
I dont recollect if i didnt mention it in the video, i thought i did. But what I did was take the whole carb to Ace or your appropriate hardware store and sized them up one by one in the nuts and bolts section.
the green gasket that the enrichner linkage sits in snapped on my rear carb. I have looked for enrichner linkages for sale and can't find anything. What should I do next? I have cleaned the insert in the preserved green gasket on the front carb and some of my linkage so far.
you missed the pms washer when you reinstalled the spring and o ring ; but you forgot to install the metal washer after the spring ! which goes between the the spring and rubber o ring !
After all was said and done I was left with a small cylindrical part, approximately 6mm in diameter and 8 mm long no idea where it came from. :/ Any ideas?
Never mind - I discovered what it was. A spacer for the intake clamp somehow came in with the carburetor - I did not fully unscrew any of the clamps and none of my spacers were missing, so it must have been dropped by a technician during a previous service. Crazy that it rode around on the bike as long as it did. Thanks for the awesome videos, best ones I have come across! So glad to have my bike running again!
Hello, I just noticed your carburetor is a little bit different than the one on my 05 Vstar 1100 Custom. Mine has a fuel cut-off solenoid valve on each end, I got my bike running after cleaning the carbs but the check engine light is on now. After further research, the bike is giving me codes 57 and 58 which, according to the owner's manual, are indicators of malfunction with the carb solenoids. There should supposedly be a wire/harness connected to each solenoid, but in my case, none of the solenoids have anything connected. Apparently, each solenoid costs about $200, so it won't be a cheap fix. :-( I bought this motorcycle a few weeks ago from the original owner ( A friend of mine), the bike had been sitting for about 7 years before I got it. It only has 5600 original miles, so I really want to fix it.
Have a 2003 V-Star 1100 & will be having my carbs fully cleaned. When they go back onto the bike I will be synchronizing them. I have a Yamaha service manual & on page 3-9 for the vacuum pressure at idle speed it notes that it should be between 34.7 - 37.3 It also notes the difference between the two carbs should not exceed 1.33kpa I am a bit confused about this difference, would you please be able to explain this to me. Thank you Allan
Thank you. What would be a good vacuum setting when I preform the carb sync between 34.7 & 37.3. Also what tool do you use on the adjustment screw as it is in the middle of the two cylinders. Just want to avoid burning myself as the engine will be quite warm.
@@alland4931 You do not set vacuum, you balance it, vacuum is a product of the engine operation. Low vacuum might indicate an engine problem or a leak somewhere.
Thank you for your very useful info. Would I balance the vacuum in the middle between 34.7 & 37.3? And by doing this it also syncs the carbs? Would you have a phone number if I need to speak to you or is it only through email? Thanks again, you are a big help!
Useful video, shame you didn't set the float height, that's what I came for. I know you didn't change the seats or fuel needles, but always best to check float height.
Attach a clear piece of Tygon tubing to the nipple on the bottom of carb bowl. Hold tubing up beside bowl and open drain screw. You want the fuel level around the parting line on the carb and fuel bowl. You must have carb hooked up to gravity feed bottle with gas.
Retro Tech & Electronics that makes sense. I ultrasonically cleaned my carbs in distilled water with dawn in it. Kinda figured it might damage the TPS so I removed it. I also followed up with carb cleaner and shop air. Thanks for the video, it was a good prep for this task.
Retro Tech & Electronics that could work but decided to remove the chance of water intrusion and took it off. My tank is not deep enough to submerge all of the carb at one time, so I was forced to remove the TPS. Thanks again for the video.
According to the old timers, the best way is to sync, then do a lean drop, and then sync again. Info partway down this page: sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/tuning/pilot-mixture-screws
I check that my carbs are in sync even if Im not pulling them as part of general maintenance. Ive displayed the vacuum lines i've installed for this in the video series.
hi I had follow all your directions but one I did .aybe wrong was that I had unscrew the throttle position sensor and I had put back quick I don't know if thats causing the bike to run bad .can you tell me if that might be the rwason
I just added pods and your new videos are the best I've found for getting down into the carbs. Thanks a lot for making these. It was still a nightmare for a first timer, but I was able to ride at the end of the same day I performed the work!
Im glad you found the videos to be helpful. The next time you half to do the job it will be half as difficult as this time.
Thank you so much for this video! Didn't think I'd be up to the task but your instructions saved me from having to send the carbs off for a rebuild! Top notch!
Some copper wire from some old earbuds make a good scrub for some of the smaller openings. Knowledge like what is shown here in this video is priceless. Much respect to those who take the time to teach. The word "doctor" derives from a Roman word docēre which means to teach.
You are a star. Same carb set up on my Yamaha BT 1100 Bulldog. Your videos have been a really big help.
Im glad you found it helpful, Ive verified BT1100 and added it to the meta, thank you.
Man, you've given me so much confidence to do this. I love every minute of it. Subscribed.
Awesome! Thank you!
YOU are the real hero. I have followed every step and you have guided me the whole way. THANK YOU. You are awesome!
I am just a man......... here to help those spending money for tasks they can do themselves.....
That was a great 3 videos. Thank you very much sir. I will follow step by step on my bike. Really appreciate.
Glad I could help
Excellent video, i was able to pull and rebuilt my carburetors without a single issue. Easier than I thought. 👍 You’re awesome!
Great to hear!
God damn Retro, you're seriously talented in making these videos straight forward and ez to understand!
Thank you. Glad to help.
I was going to come down into the comments and type out a long thank you, and praise you for the great and thorough, informative video, but there are many great comments down here already, so I won't bother. Subscribed!
Glad it was helpful!
Ppp
Thank you. I followed every step as shown. And bike is now running great. Great video.
Glad it was helpful to you.
What an Awesome how to video,
Thank you so much !!!
Glad I could help.
Outstanding 2 part series! I respect your meticulous nature!
Many thanks!
You are the man! Videos made this job a piece of cake. Bike has so much more power now that my clutch is slipping 😂
Yes, many people are waiting for my clutch to slip for that video.
thanks a lot man, i m just gonna get a vstar 1100 like yours, and your videos are gold to me. Saludos desde Chihuahua Mexico.
Glad to hear the videos are helpful to you.
Thanks sir! Im gona clean my carburetors next week. Greatings from Poland.
Good luck!
Outstanding video! one of the best i have ever seen!
Thank you very much.
Great explanation, really helped me out... My Dragstar 1100 classic runs like clockwork again... thx so much for your instruction video.. 🙂
You're welcome, glad it helped.
Just re did my carbs thanks man great video keep it up saving ppl alot of money
Glad I could help
Great videos, going to tear my 1100 down this weekend and do this. Last time I had it runningn it would run with throttle on but would not idle, so I'm pretty sure the carbs are the culprit.
Report back how things turn out.
excellent very clear and easy to follow along instructions
Glad it was helpful!
Just a warning as it's not mentioned but the main jet nozzle inside of the carb where the needle sits into, it can fall out and both of mine did, i ended up needing to spend £50 as i lost one
My 1100 has set for around 2 years. Should I order a rebuild kit or just try to clean everything up. Only thing I worry about is if I need rubber orings and won’t have them when I take it apart .. great videos. Very informative. Thank you!!! Also only way I can get my bike to crank is direct shot of starting fluid into the cylinder. So no fuel is coming through the carbs.
The video series on carb cleaning is very informative. 1st time doing so and you explained everything step by step. Thanks for making the series.
When I was taking apart the 2nd carb. While I was trying to get the washer and bevelled oring from the needle. I had the carb turned upside down. While tapping the carb I had a brass collar fall out somewhere. I couldn't figure out where. Also had a chrome clooar fall out from the piece that had the screw that screws inside the #8 wrench one. Noticed end over end it was different. One end had normal other had cupped. Not sure which end goes in 1st. Any ideas.
Huge help thanks for a great series.
You're welcome.
Great Great videos i didn't know that i could separate the carbs like thisi will do-it that way
Of course.... Honda on the other hand.... Thats a different story.
for a great tutorial. I will tackle this project on my 04 v-star 1100 custom in February. One question - once you assemble the carbs back in the bike after this thorough cleaning, is there any adjustments or balancing you need to do or should they be good to go so long as the bike was running OK before the fuel issues crept in - if so, do you have any videos on how to do the adjustments? Also, how about any info on setting the idle speed? Thanks again.
Super helpful thanks so much for the video!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Retro, I got a question, the carbs on the V-Star 1100 one carb has a 115 Main Jet, the other is a 112.5 Main Jet. Which one goes where, as I cleaned all the jets at the same time, now rebuilding them I find out that main jets are different. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Your videos on Yamahas are so thorough, I really enjoy them. Thanks
Well I just went ahead and jumped right into this after looking at your videos and some others. Figure I can't do much more harm since my bike was dying if choke wasn't on full. Carbs look pretty clean so far, maybe it was just bad gas. However as I hope to finish up the clean/rebuild tomorrow I'm at a loss of how exactly the best way to sync the carbs will be? I've been watching a few video and I think I can probably make a manometer, but I'm confused how to properly get fuel to carbs while I do the testing if the tank needs to be off, etc. I'm going to probably follow your oil change and valve clearance videos while I have things off as best as I can... but do you have a video that explains how to dynamically resync the carbs on the 1100 (preferable without expensive tools)? Thanks so much!
Awesome vedio bro, thank you so much!
No problem!
I need help, when removing the brackets from the "2nd carb" rebuild. Started disassembly and I had a maybe a 5/16 sleeve fall out. Unable to figure out where it came from. Almost like a locating pin you would find on a primary crankcase.
Any help would be appreciated.
Good day to u. Really like your videos, I have access to a carb soaking pail, other than the wiring what else would I remove. The other, I was going to go with the pods. I was told I'd lose performance using them. How do u find the performance. Any fall backs. Thanks for your time.
Where can I find a replacement for the 3 electrical connectors that go connected to the bottoms of the carbs. I notice that my bike was missing this when I took the carbs out?
Thank you for your detailed videos. They are awesome. I followed your instructions pretty much to the letter, and I got everything back together with your other video’s help and got it running, but it seems to be running rich. What should I check first?
I have a feeling you are a Professional Mechanic or a Professor of Mechanics. 😁 Your video is very detailed like no others. Very well done! Which Professional skill level you are a Master in? If I may ask sir.
really detailed thanks a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
Jordan, you are amazing. My 2000 VSTAR 1100 has been sitting for a couple of months, and wouldn't turn over it was making a clunking sound when starting. So I changed out my starter clutch, the old one was seized. I start the bike up and it was popping like a 22 rifle and would only run at full choke else it stalled out. I thought I screwed up the timing but my brother convinced me its the carbs and not the timing, because I followed the video replacement of the SC to the letter. I do believe the carbs need a rebuild and a thorough cleaning. After watching your videos, you give me confidence to try this myself. I am retired so I will do it soon. Thanks again. Will they need to be synchronized?
Great to hear... Always resync when cleaning and separating. Its an easy step and the gauges are cheap.
In my last reply I forgot to ask you about the fuel/air mixture needle.
When this goes back in if it is out of adjustment from it's proper setting does this get fine tuned with a engine tach to bring it back to it's proper setting.
No. Fuel air mixture is not the same as the idle screw
What is the proper way to set my fuel air mixture screw as I have not did this.
Also have you used a ultra sonic machine to clean chromed motorcycle parts.
Hey man, so i have a small brass washer left ofer afer taking apart my carb.. needless to say it still won't start.. it's about 2 mm long and maybe a centimeter in diameter any idea where it goes?
I have followed your directions and cleaned out my carbs on my wife’s 04 V-Star 1100. I also had the same exact 2 jets blocked that you had. I did not open up the PMS screws as they were under the caps. I also synchronized the bike after re-assembly. The bike now runs and idles with no issue but as speed picks up throttle response becomes very slow and I feel like after 45 mph the bikes struggles to gain speed. On deceleration the bikes coughs and spits a bit (misses) etc. I need to do a PMS clean and adjustment but I have the stock screws and caps. First, what is the factory numbers of turns I should start with once the PMS is lightly seated and also, where can I find PMS extended screws so I can make the adjustments without having to pull the carbs to make minor fine tuning adjustments? I would appreciate your help as my dealer and local parts place are no help whatsoever.
After removing the caps, mark the screws and turn them in to find the number of turns.
Anyone heard of different size main jets? The rear being bigger?
Great videos-Subscribed!
At 14:52 you are holding the frame and there is the small port that you are pushing carb cleaner through...what is that? I ask because that is where my vstar 1100 is leaking gas. What is the cause?
Thank you and it was very informative !
Glad it was helpful!
very helpful thanks
Glad it helped
Great video, quick question. Why would fuel be coming out of the nipple on the bottom of the frame?
stuck float, or float needle not sealing.?
Getting ready to r and r engine, tomorrow carbs come off, good timing for me to do before reinstalling, as well as check valve clearance on the used create engine while carbs are on standby
I have a series on valve clearance adjustment.
Wow thank you
Your’re welcome.
Hi can you please tell me if it is normal that the from cilynder it takes little bit to warm up even I put the jet at the right location
Where did you get your air fuel mixture screws, I've been looking for those and a retailer told me they dont make them anymore for a MIKUNI carb
This was part of the maxair pod kit, I believe he sells just the screws too.
Those air mixture screws are sold with the Maxair intake kit only , can't buy them anywhere else. Max had them specially made for his kit.
Amazing video thanks. What size jets were in each carb?
Stock on this bike.
Factory jets I believe were 110/112. The Maxair kit provides several jet options (determined by exhaust flow). My 1100 ended up using 140/142 sized jets. The larger oh the rear cylinder (which runs a tad hotter).
What would cause gas to squirt out when it starts from both vapor tubes
Wonderful job on the carbs !! This will help me a lot in overhauling the Mikunis.
Just one question please: I would like to place the carbs into an ultrasonic cleaner. How should I protect the electric throttle sensor, when the carburetor housing goes into the bath ?
I have a separate series on comprehensive cleaning and disassembly with re-calibration. Its for a 650, though the procedure is similar for TPS.
ua-cam.com/video/3aJ8naCbegE/v-deo.html
@@retrotechandelectronics Thanks a million Sir ! So the only thing I have to do, is to measure on both contacts (plus and minus) and turning the sensor, until the ohmmeter shows up to 720 ohms. Thats all ? Doesn`t sound too complicated to me. On my BT 1100 there is a set of Mikuni BST 37 carbs, are 720 ohms correct for them as well ?
Nice and concise video. Plan on doing this with my son.
What do you use to polish things?
Maas.
Quick question stud muffin... what size hex head screws did ya use for bottom of carbs? That was a good idea!
I dont recollect if i didnt mention it in the video, i thought i did. But what I did was take the whole carb to Ace or your appropriate hardware store and sized them up one by one in the nuts and bolts section.
2 great videos. Got my wifes trike going again without a major investment...Thanks
Glad that I was able to help. Thanks.
the green gasket that the enrichner linkage sits in snapped on my rear carb. I have looked for enrichner linkages for sale and can't find anything. What should I do next? I have cleaned the insert in the preserved green gasket on the front carb and some of my linkage so far.
Yamaha has a distinct part number for every part. Google the carb diagram or consult your local dealer.
you missed the pms washer when you reinstalled the spring and o ring ; but you forgot to install the metal washer after the spring ! which goes between the the spring and rubber o ring !
After all was said and done I was left with a small cylindrical part, approximately 6mm in diameter and 8 mm long no idea where it came from. :/ Any ideas?
Never mind - I discovered what it was. A spacer for the intake clamp somehow came in with the carburetor - I did not fully unscrew any of the clamps and none of my spacers were missing, so it must have been dropped by a technician during a previous service. Crazy that it rode around on the bike as long as it did. Thanks for the awesome videos, best ones I have come across! So glad to have my bike running again!
I didn't see your second post here, glad that you found your missing item.
Thank you :)
Hello, I just noticed your carburetor is a little bit different than the one on my 05 Vstar 1100 Custom. Mine has a fuel cut-off solenoid valve on each end, I got my bike running after cleaning the carbs but the check engine light is on now. After further research, the bike is giving me codes 57 and 58 which, according to the owner's manual, are indicators of malfunction with the carb solenoids. There should supposedly be a wire/harness connected to each solenoid, but in my case, none of the solenoids have anything connected. Apparently, each solenoid costs about $200, so it won't be a cheap fix. :-(
I bought this motorcycle a few weeks ago from the original owner ( A friend of mine), the bike had been sitting for about 7 years before I got it. It only has 5600 original miles, so I really want to fix it.
A resistor can be put at the end of those cables to silence the alarm.
I was hoping you took the needle out a d put it back..because i broke the little plastic tabs that hold the top in place.
There is no reason during the cleaning of the carbs to remove that large needle.
What is that vehicle you're pedaling at the end of your videos?
That is a late 70's Jawa Babeta transistor 40. A Project Im currently working on.
great, and well explained video thanks a lot!!! A ++++
Glad it helped!
Have a 2003 V-Star 1100 & will be having my carbs fully cleaned. When they go back onto the bike I will be synchronizing them.
I have a Yamaha service manual & on page 3-9 for the vacuum pressure at idle speed it notes that it should be between 34.7 - 37.3
It also notes the difference between the two carbs should not exceed 1.33kpa
I am a bit confused about this difference, would you please be able to explain this to me.
Thank you
Allan
34-37 is the measurement of vacuum at idle. The difference between the two [balance] should not exceed 1.33
Thank you.
What would be a good vacuum setting when I preform the carb sync between 34.7 & 37.3.
Also what tool do you use on the adjustment screw as it is in the middle of the two cylinders.
Just want to avoid burning myself as the engine will be quite warm.
@@alland4931 You do not set vacuum, you balance it, vacuum is a product of the engine operation. Low vacuum might indicate an engine problem or a leak somewhere.
Thank you for your very useful info.
Would I balance the vacuum in the middle between 34.7 & 37.3?
And by doing this it also syncs the carbs?
Would you have a phone number if I need to speak to you or is it only through email?
Thanks again, you are a big help!
Useful video, shame you didn't set the float height, that's what I came for. I know you didn't change the seats or fuel needles, but always best to check float height.
What? its in my Maxair podkit video in detail
@@retrotechandelectronics My bad, didn't see that.
GO NAVY
GO NAVY....... BEAT ARMY.......
Wish you were my mechanic!!
I hear that a lot.
What brand of polish are you using?
Maas
If I am replacing the float needle what would the float height be in mm ??
Attach a clear piece of Tygon tubing to the nipple on the bottom of carb bowl. Hold tubing up beside bowl and open drain screw. You want the fuel level around the parting line on the carb and fuel bowl. You must have carb hooked up to gravity feed bottle with gas.
Did you remove the TPS during the cleaning process, on the first carb?
I did not. I see no reason to mess with the TPS unless there is a reason to do so or an error code flashing, indicating an issue with it.
Retro Tech & Electronics that makes sense. I ultrasonically cleaned my carbs in distilled water with dawn in it. Kinda figured it might damage the TPS so I removed it. I also followed up with carb cleaner and shop air. Thanks for the video, it was a good prep for this task.
So im thinking that if you lay the carb down such that the TPS is not submerged you should be ok.
Retro Tech & Electronics that could work but decided to remove the chance of water intrusion and took it off. My tank is not deep enough to submerge all of the carb at one time, so I was forced to remove the TPS. Thanks again for the video.
So after all that the carbs need sync'd, correct?
correct.
According to the old timers, the best way is to sync, then do a lean drop, and then sync again. Info partway down this page: sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/tuning/pilot-mixture-screws
I check that my carbs are in sync even if Im not pulling them as part of general maintenance. Ive displayed the vacuum lines i've installed for this in the video series.
It's best to.
Im about to try todo this and save $350
Good Luck.
hi I had follow all your directions but one I did .aybe wrong was that I had unscrew the throttle position sensor and I had put back quick I don't know if thats causing the bike to run bad .can you tell me if that might be the rwason
TPS removal requires recalibration of the tps . See manual
@@retrotechandelectronics thank you so much