80 Series High And Low Range Transfer Case Gears Part 2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- OTRAMM is an independent Toyota, Lexus, and Subaru repair shop in Bealeton Virginia. Contact us today for your repair, maintenance, and modification needs. www.otramm.com
In today's video we'll be finishing up the install of the transfer case high and low range gears. We'll clearance the case halves and reassemble everything.
Want to help support this channel? / otramm
If you'd like to support out channel please consider visiting out Patreon page and merchandise page. Thanks!!
/ otramm
reefmonkey.com...
Nice job ive watched all the transfer case conversions and i like yours the best.
I think when i do mine ill wack up a cradle with wood so i can stand case on end drop on and not sideways.
OTRAM! My 97 80 series is stuck in 4x4. It is fairly new to me, it has always been slow to unlock the CDL, now it won't come out. The actuator looks great, can't move the shift lock by hand, removed case now. If I understand the fsm and this video the front extension housing should be removable with just the 6 bolts after the Cdl sensor and torx/ ball detention are removed right?? Mine will not come off! Taped and tapped, broke off one of the pry tabs started to gently chisle the joint, put a little propane heat on the dowel areas, no luck. Can I remove the rear housing and brass punch through the back onto the output shaft?? Any idea where I can get a used front housing if its cracked?? Thanks for all of your amazing videos.
Awesome videos. Great quality and lighting
Thanks, I've been trying to work on lighting and sound quality.
Awesome video. Very clear and complete. If you install just the underdrive kit do you still
have to trim the oil slingers?
Nope, the trimming is just for the low range gear.
Thanks for the video, just wondering....why not replace the bearings with new ones, cause those guys must have had their better days.
Regards
The 80 series t-case rarely needs bearings. We'll replace them if they're scored but there's usually no need. The t-case bearings are rather expensive.
Hi, great video! What the purpose of the ball bearing under that torx screw? I had my actuator out and front cover off investigating the fork and gear set that is moved by the actuator. Also had the actuator rod out. Has that ball bearing dropped into the case now?
The bearing and spring are part of the detent that holds the fork in place for each gear selection. If you pulled the fork and rod out without removing the bearing first it's likely in the case now.
Thanks for your reply. I only removed the open/lock fork and shaft (accessed by removing front housing). I'm hoping the detent ball only relates to the high/low selector?
@jcateer there's a detent on each of the shafts
Really good I know do repairs myself
Crazy helpful, many thanks. Where can I find torque specs?
The factory service manual is your best bet. You may be able to find a used paper copy. Or you can do short term subscriptions to Toyota tech info
@@OTRAMM I found the factory service manual, many thanks for that pointer.
1) Did the truck's acceleration get any worse in high range?
2) Did this improve your fuel efficiency in high range around town or on the highway? I know there are a number of other variables such as vehicle weight, differential gearing, driving behavior, tire size and weight. Just curious what your experience was.
Acceleration in high range improved. The gears help compensate for larger tires. On fuel economy, I don't know. Almost all of our videos are installs on customer trucks, not trucks we personally own.
Yes yes good work 👍
Excellent video thanks a lot 👍
good job thank you
Great video. Why no FIPG at 29:30 when the rear case goes on?
The fipg is on the rear section when I installed it
Getting ready to put a new used Tcase in my 91 fj80. Does it need to go back in the truck with the diff unlocked, does it matter?
Awesome videos, thank you for making them. Quality information!
I've always put them back however they came out. Not sure if it makes a difference or not
@@OTRAMM how do you know its in unlock position
@@sanhluc7883 you remove the motor in the unlocked position so it doesn't change. Then put the shift rail in the unlocked position before putting the motor back.
@@OTRAMM thanks ryan for replying. how do you know the shift rail is in unlock position. btw. your crank pulley tool is awesome
With it locked the front and rear outputs are locked together. Unlocked they'll be stiff but you can spin then opposite directions.
might want to put a skosh more FIPG on the sealing surfaces. i put about a .5mm layer on the sealing surface and have yet to have any leaks. i like to spread it out to make sure that the whole surface gets a light covering... not too much though. a thin line of sealant like you've done can and has come back leaking... trust me i've had to fix plenty of other shops/techs f-ups along with toyota's own sealant caused leaks.
There's plenty on there. It had squish out all the way around. I've done a ton of them and no leaks yet.
@@OTRAMM it's just when Toyota sends you to classes on how to apply sealant because it's been a problem industry wide you learn to recognize things that they specifically say NOT to do. After being a Toyota MDT for the last 18 years i've seen it all. your methods although not exactly wrong, aren't by the book, and i've seen it fail many a time.
I double checked this morning. The way I put down a bead of sealer is the way it's shown in the manual on TIS.
Very professional
Good videos my friend 👍🏽👍🏽
Just curious, why does the bearing need to get pre-lubed if it's gonna get lubed by gear oil? Will the grease make it harder for the gear oil to lube the bearings?
I grease the inside bearings since they aren't immediately oiled. It's break in grease so it melts out once oil gets to it.
Wow took you 45minuits.
Not counting pulling it out and putting it bck in.
Is this about an 8hour job?
The miracles of editing. All told it's a long days work by the time you get everything out. Modified, cleaned, and put back together.
Why wouldnt you replace all the bearings and races whilst you had it all apart in the first place . The races looked a bit worse for wear .
The bearings and races we're fine. No need to replace good parts.
what is the final drive ratio with both 10% underdrive plus the 3 to 1 low gears?
They don't add together, it's one or the other. The final drive ratio depends on your axle and transmission gear as well.
Reading some other posts it looks like they do add together. I'm sued to figuring up the older mini truck t-cases.
which brand gears did you use in the install?
I got them from Cruiser Brothers. One set was Terrain Tamer and the other was Sumo. I can't remember which was which though.
@@OTRAMM cool thanks for reply... Great videos by the way... Once a lot of other cruiser heads find out bout channel, I think your going to get a lot more hits... Keep up the good work....
Nice video. Can you do a video about opening, cleaning and re-lubing the diff actuator motors that seem to get stuck after 20 years of operation, please?
Haven't actually had to do a set yet. I did estimate one last week, so maybe soon
Why not just remove the oil sling completely ?
Less work. Less grinding dust.
The slinger us riveted in. We've got an automatic parts washer so the dust isn't an issue.
Otramm.
Thanks for the video. And the answer.
Both parts you answer I know.
So I'm still wondering what function the raster of the oil sling might have.
It can't be anything with strength. The rivets too small for that.
I hope there comes, a buy solution to overdrive.
Can you see - assess if there is room for over drive and if so how much.
20% + will be nice.
I get special parts made for my Volvo TGB axles. So it won't be strange to me to make new cogs for HF2A over drive.