SAILBOAT REBUILD - how to REMOVE a KEEL - Plastskador repair - week1
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- At the end of the 2020 season Plastskador took Aurora carefully into the yard to await the repair. Now it's finally time to take her in and start fixing her up. This is part one of the repair all is going well so far, the furniture has been removed, the grinding has started and the keel came off.
Excellent video, I’m sorry you are having to experience this repair, but stay positive, the repair will be stronger.
Hi Andy. Thank you. Yes now we can see light at the end of the tunnel, and we are trying to look at the positive as you say, she will be a stronger boat when we set sails for a new season. Stay safe, Chris & Tanja
Hi Chris. Looks like the yard are taking great care of Aurora. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, you are more than welcome
A very interesting episode, Thank you for sharing!
Thanks very much :) I think it's really interesting too, sometimes I like doing some handy work so it's cool to learn. I really like how you extended your boat also, that was very cool
Yes a very interesting video - looks like you are in safe hands. Not sure I would be so excited, but of course interesting to see the repair being carried out, and hopefully stronger than original.
Hi Barry, thanks for the comment. The reputation of Plastskador is known the a lot of boaters around here and people are coming from all over the Nordics to get their boat repaired here, so feeling pretty good about it. So far they are doing great. I'm learning a great deal from these guys and they are happy to share knowledge which I really love :)
I am sure you are tired of hearing from us old school pre GPS full keel fully encapsulated skeg hung rudder guys. Goodluck on the repairs.
Hi Thomas. Never tired of comments and great conversations:-) Thanks you, we are really looking forward to the new season. Cheers, Chris & Tanja
Chris, Really interesting video, thanks for sharing. Good to see 418 being so solid, when I was at the factory they said they never lost a keel so fascinating to see behind scenes engineering. Enjoyed the bonus footage. Happy Birthday to Tanja.
Thanks Jon, yea she is quite solidly built, the only thing that really sticks out is that they are using mostly bonding for the grid and not laminating it down in most of the frame/grid.
Quote from Hanse "The huge structural subframe is at the heart of every Hanse and importantly is both bonded and laminated to the hand built hull".
They are cleverly wording this as there are only a few parts that are bonded and laminated, most of it is only bonding (glue) in between the grid and hull. One of the issues here is that the bonding is strong but is very brittle and shock will crack the grid - hull connection. The reason that they did this is purely cost, the lamination would take extra time and therefore make the boats more expensive. It's a competitive world in production boat these days. I will touch on the subject in the next video a little. I am sure that these boats are pretty strong anyways so I wouldn't worry too much, it did survive the impact and did not take on a lot of water and it took a lot to separate the keel. Tanja says thanks for the birthday wishes :)
I grounded my Hanse 342 in 2007 and I was going to follow the repair work just as you do back then but I got a virus infection (CMV, if that means anything to you) which put me in bed with high fever for four weeks (which in itself is interesting in these covid times). As a result, I never got to see the things I get to see in your excellent video so I would thank you for that.
The bilge frame on my 342 is laminated to the hull so our boats are different in that respect but I was told that they had to drill with a hole saw around the keel bolts to get the keel off. It is interesting to see they had to do a similar thing on your boat.
I always wanted to have my own pictures of the process but your video is a good substitute.
Hi Johan, sorry to hear that you missed the repair, that virus must have been bad. Hopefully you fully recovered.
Indeed that keel was a pain to get off apparently, thanks for following, we appreciate comments like these. They keep us going, cheers, Chris
DAMN IT CHRIS! You just took HANSE off my next boat list. Yes, I am sorry that you and your wife have had this experience. I feel for you mate. It is just that "I am more important to me, then you" (LOL) Here is what you did, rather here is what HANSE has done, that you are showing me. The "grid" is bonded to the hull. I want my grid glassed to the hull. HANSE uses a (steel?) plate bonded to the hull that the keel is then attached to. Not a terrible idea at all, the problem of course is bonded vs glassed in. The lack of a "bilge box" in the lowest part of the hull to hold the bilge pump, is very disconcerting. Chris I can not imagine what other shortcuts HANSE has taken to cut a few hundred dollars from the build cost. I guess we will see. Be happy, be safe. (end of first part of this video)
DAY 3 comment. Question: I am wondering why PLASTSKADOR is "repairing" a section at a time, instead of getting the entire grid prepared for repair at the same time. Anybody that owns or has been around boat "projects" for any length of time knows it is never, ever just one thing. Unless you get a good look at the entire repair area before you start repairs odds are "GREMLINS ARE HIDING". On we go.
FRIDAY comment. To repair where the bonder is layered fiberglass will be used. Of course, layered fiberglass is much, much stronger than the bonding material. Keep up the great work. Be happy, be safe.
I have enjoyed this video a great deal. Thanks a bunch for the "bonus section" very interesting to say the least.
How the grid is attached to the hull, then how the keel is attached is an extremely important safety issue. We all have grounded, or hit a reef or we are going to. That being the case ask yourself, if you know you are going to hit a reef do you want your boats grid bonded in, or fiberglassed in? The best protection of the grid, keel and hull can be found in a heavy displacement encapsulated full keel sailboat. If safety when grounding or hitting a reef is your only concern, you will be sailing a full keel boat.
If your desire is to go a reasonable speed, good upwind performance, agility in getting in and out of a slip, etc. You will not be sailing a full keel boat. Therefor I ask again, would you choose a bonded grid or fiberglassed grid (all other points on the boat are the same)?
BE HAPPY, BE SAFE.
Patrick look a little bit at a time because it worked best for him. During the damage assesment at the beginning he always knew how much he would have to grind away.
It's a good question you have at the end there: I really like the performance of this boat and it would be a hard compromise to go to a full keeled boat. If I was buying a boat again today, I think I would be asking a lot more relevant questions at least.
Racing design influence has a lot to answer for in the construction of cruising boats I reckon.
Indeed, I would agree wit that
So illustrative, many thanks
Chris it looks like a extremely good repair and skills that are doing it, all the best cheers
Thanks Brian, so far so good, the real skill will come in the rebuild. Looking forward to that :)
So sad how much damage was done 😭like the Expedition Evans Bennitoe....glad your going to save your sailboat..💖
Hi Bruce. Yes it was a devastating moment, and it's still hard to see the extend of the damages, but trying to make the most of the situation and now looking forward to a new season. Cheers, Chris & Tanja
Hi. Just a thought but you may already be aware of this. The channel ‘Expedition Evans’ is going through a similar repair on a Beneteau but they are doing it themselves. Your solution to re-attaching the core with layers of fiberglass to the hull is the same as theirs. Good luck.
Hi there. Yes, we are following Expedition Evans. What an amazing job they are doing. Thanks. All the best, Chris & Tanja
Paldies par informaciju…..
Your welcome
Very interesting. By looking of your yacht Hanse build them strong and the keel attachment is very good.
Best wishes
P&J
Thanks Peter, it is built strong but I wish they would have laminated everything from the beginning. It might have broken anyway because the forces are so great but it makes for a better boat with glass to the hull. But of course the lamination is a much more expensive process as it takes more time and they are trying to keep costs down, understandable when all of the production boats are competing with each other and time is money. I will talk about this a little in the next video. Best regards, Chris
The contrary is the case Peter as the owner tried to explain in this very interesting video.
Chris: Great video. What’s under the hood is always interesting, or in your case, what’s under the floorboards. Looking forward to watching the rebuilding process.
Thanks Stellar, much appreciated. I love understanding more of how things are built and the thinking behind it. I'm closely following SV Seeker for that very reason, he is a superb engineer and it's very interesting to watch. I look forward to watching our rebuild process also. Cheers
I enjoyed thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed
Right way to go, it’s really not a diy work. 👍👌
Thanks Awang. No, we are really pleased with their work, looks very professional, and we are happy that we chose this particular company. Cheers, Chris & Tanja
GREETINGS !, as an after thought........you may want to do at anytime what i have done to my catalina 27, i put a 5/16in. plate of steel over the keel area & floor & used counter sunk longer bolts to attach the keel with....the plate is 36in. x 55in. it makes the keel attachment almost foul proof .
Sounds like a good idea, pretty confident in what we have now though
Why did Patrick not use a coring bit a size bigger than the diameter of the bolts? Just a thought. Great videos of your rebuild. Very informative. Thank you.
I will ask him. I suspect it's because the coring bit would have to be massive and it's alot of metal to cut through with a large diameter. Good point though, I am learning too
Found your channel this week and have been catching up....enjoyed the videos. On this one when you are talking with Patrick, there is a shot of what looks like a plastic thru-hull and a bronze valve. If it is a thru-hull, what is fastening it to the inside of the hull, hopefully not just 5200 on the outside of the hull.? Again assuming it is a thru hull, there should be a a backing board/plate encircling the thru hull (epoxy painted marine ply or a hardwood) and a nut to hold the thru hull to the backing plate. You should look at all the below water thru hulls and valves and consider changing them out to flanged bronze set ups or the Marelon carbon fiber set ups ( matching thru hull and valve ) made by Forespar. There are some good tutorial videos on UA-cam regarding installation of thru hulls.
The Hanse boats have a fantastic aesthetic . I am surprised that you do not have a bow thruster.....if able I would highly recommend fitting one in while she is under repair. They can make docking and maneuvering less of an adventure.
Good luck with the boat
reply to my own comment....I see that any bow thruster is retractable. Nice option, do you have one?
Hi Geoff, This week it's on my to do list to research through hulls and sea cocks. Your comment gives me a head start for sure. I will include it in the videos of what we decide. To answer the other comment as well. there is a retractable bow thruster make by quick. It's pretty convenient for sure. In one of the summer videos you can see it in the water. Cheers, Chris
Hi Chris. Very interesting topic. Always facinating looking at the hidden structure/subframe of a boat. Would it be possible for you to show us the difference of the grid of the Elan 40 compared to your Hanse. Elan seems to have a lot more keelbolts. Thanks.
Hi there, sure I'll see what I can do. It's another owner's boat so I will have to ask permission. The keel bolts on the Elan are a lot smaller, hence the amount. Watch this space I'll see what I can do
my Elan 40 has fewer keelbolts (2,05 m draft ) - this here must be the 2,40 m draft
With regards to Hanse, I wondered if it is difficult to inspect the keel grid structure?
I mean without doing much damage to the wood work and removing a lot of things.
In some mass manufacturer like Beneteaus, it is almost practically impossible to inspect.
Hi there, sorry late to reply. With the Hanse it's actually pretty easy, you can see most of the grid just by lifting the boards. if not you can use an inspection camera, a very useful tool indeed
@@SailingAurora Thanks
Great video how much did the repair cost insurance job of course
Thanks, it was around €40,000
@@SailingAuroraCheers This is a really difficult repair that requires allot of effort skill and expense. I am not surprised. Looks like an excellent result however. Thanks for sharing.
Good introduction (and I have watched the second one too).An interesting project, especially when we have the Expedition Evans experience to compare and contrast.To that end, is this work being covered by insurance, has Hanse specified the repair schedule and are they involved in the approval process post repair?
Hi Norman. Thank you. We have also been watching Expedition Evans, they have really done an amazing job. The work being done is covered by our insurance, thank g.. for that. Hanse are not involved, but the company doing the work did a similar repair on the Hanse 388 that we chartered our selves last summer, and they are some of the best in the Nordic on this kind of work. Best, Chris & Tanja
Hanse has "never lost a keel." Interesting boast. How many of their keel have had to be repaired and at what cost? What happens when you're sailing along at speed and hit a log or coral head? Also, why is there no structure to distribute the load of the "grid" where it meets the hull?
Hi Jim, I' not sure of the statistics on the keels I just heard the statement from Hanse. When the boat ran aground and hit the rock to a dead stop, the keel did flex away from the hull and then was sucked back on with the sikaflex and the bolts. A little water came in at this point, but the boat did exactly what it was designed to do, absorb the impact, keep the keel attached and get you home to do repairs. The forces involved on a grounding like this with a rigid keel construction are immense, at 5+ knots you are looking at 100+ tonnes at the back of the keel on the strongback. With the keel design the only way to absorb this effectively is to swing the keel. Check out Linjett boats they have designed something for this. Of course it depends how hard you hit something also.
Do you have any data you can share from the grounding? It would be kinda nice to know what it takes to create this much damage.
Hi Mitchel. We are trying to get the detailed data of the chart plotter. We have brought it home, so will share when we find a way to get the data of it. Cheers, Chris & Tanja
@@SailingAurora NMEA2000 data stream over Seatalk or one of the other proprietary devices? Kinda frustrating that each Mfg thinks they still need to reinvent the wheel. If they made a better product at a lower price then it would compete fine over an open network infrastructure. I watched this same thing play out in the 80s with CompuServe then AOL, lol. Didn't work out so great for them either, lol.
Interesting. By the way, congratulations to Tanja's birthday
Thanks, Tanja also sends her thanks. :)
Archimedes said, "Give me a lever and a place to stand and I will move the earth." I really wonder if he could remove the keel with all those tools.
Love that saying. My dad said it to me once
Pity you could. Ld not go back to the people who build. Lt that boat man that is one shit floor looks like there is no renforcing in the floor at all
Moral of the story, don't buy a Hanse 😊
All productuon fixed fin keel boats with this profile would suffer this damage when hitting a rock at 5+ knots. They are built the same way.
@RobbyCrash No worries! If you have the budget, there are much nicer boats out there
@@SailingAuroraI agree I don't know if you could build any fin keel strong enough to withstand the severe forces involved. Something has to give or absorb the energy. A crushable keel perhaps? In the old days timber yachts would generally just sink.
Its not if your gonna run aground , its when . Get a boat that can take a good smack.
It's a trade off I guess. Either performance or strong against groundings.
I have sailed them both , fin keels and full keels (they are very slow in light air). As long as the boat has a cut out fore foot and a rudder separate from the end of the keel the performance hit is not that much . Actually if you read Ted Hoods book , the delta bottom is very fast due to its low wetted surface and a very shallow draft. How are the repairs holding up no stress cracks in the hull ?
Sent you an email
Hi there, I didn't receive it, which email did you send to? Chris
@@SailingAurora Hmm let me try again one moment
The keel top is too narrow. Foolish design.
If the keel was wider at the top, it wouldn't make much difference, sorry I don't agree. If the keel was longer on the top the leverage would be less during a grouding, it's why full keel boats don't suffer as much damage.
that's funny: my Elan 40 has had a grounding as well and I bid for it out of an insurance claim. Did the repair myself although the keel was already off. They used heat to weaken the Sika. The so called "strongback" is laminated in by the yard but it seperated partly due to the grounding impact. I'd say a bit easier to fix...( instagram.com/p/BbfCl1XBGI6/ ) Thanks for the inside view of your repair!
That's awesome, it must have felt great to fix something like that. The Elan in the workshop at the moment has very small grid compartments, so I guess you had your work cut out for you. Happy to share and glad you can get something out of it, cheers, Chris