Right on! It's awesome to have 1x options for older cranks. Also, very much appreciate the inclusive attitude towards cycling, and generous approach to information dissemination.
I am there. I put mb triple on old 501 Peugeot 20 yrs. ago. I am totally done, loved it, love it still. Once set up CORRECTLY they are virtually maintenance free imo! Set up CORRECTLY is the key imo. ❤
Many years ago I saw the same cyclist, every day, same place, riding their 21-speed (3x7) mountain bike, and only ever shifting the chainrings, in effect the rear cogset was a waste. And always great to hear a shout for Dream Cycle and Darren. YVR
94BCD 5 Bolt - affordible options??? Hell yeah!!!! Need those. My biggest grip is chainlinee/q-factor issues trying to run various cranks to do 2 and 1 x setups on older bikes sometimes those tolerences are just too tight - and also fitting more modern cranks offset chainrings to re-establish sub 50mm chianlines... So it would be awesome to have offset rings specifically for fittng newer boost etc. cranks on older frames. Up to say a 38T for MTB's..
If you can use a 2x or 3x properly they are great, 1x are very easy and simple in comparison, I have triples on all my bikes, as I do use all the rings and front mech
I own 2 bikes at this moment both have 3x9 and it feels wrong. I wan't to have 1by on one of them and the other maybe 2by.... On my 90's mtb I rarelly use the smaller one at front, most of the time I only use the middle one already, so that's why I assume 1by would be better for it.
It's an understandable problem, you have to take a look at the exact gear ratios on a graph to then know how to 'progress' through your gears. It's not exactly intuitive, but it certainly isn't impossible to figure out. However, you can keep things simple and not sweat the small stuff. For a triple, ride using the middle chainring for most of your riding. If it's too easy to pedal despite being in the smallest cog, shift into the largest chainring, and shift from the smallest rear cog to a larger one. Vice versa for if it's too hard to pedal.
@@gerekappo I don't think I'll ever go back to 3x. 2x at most. All my current bikes are 90s mtb 1x conversions. If you want to do a cheap 1x conversion with your current setup, just take off the front shifter and derailleur after you've set your chain on the middle chainring. You already have all the parts to try out the 1x experience.
Great video, I did make one of my 90s bike a 1x with a stridsland chainring and I like it for all the reasons you mentioned. I use all my gears but many folks don’t, I ofter hear people at the coops asking for advice on the 1x but they are turned off by all the work and $$$ that goes into the conversion. But in reality it wasn’t so bad, reddit had a lot of haters too. Next time I need a chainring, Ill check out your opinions.
I think we all have our own preferences when it comes to gearing. I feel that one by has restricted overall range and chainline issues especially on short chainstay bikes unlike your beautiful Atlantis. A double corrects these problems but you need to be able to use a front mech which isn't too difficult especially if you can unlearn indexing and get away from treating your gears like those of an automobile. A third chainring is then a lightweight emergency extra which comes in handy at the top of a long alpine climb when turning the last hairpin you fi d a sheep in the middle of the road and lose your rhythm.
Try Deckas Chainring it is cheaper. Mine i used it for 24,000 kilometers it is still rock solid. Here in my country we could still buy old model bike parts brand new. For example a chainring for 5 bolts spider arm and od course BB for that model etc
I'm just about to go 1 x on an old MTB and somewhere I read that you should use a narrow wide chainring for that. But is is it really so? What does the Expert say? Thank you!
I know you didn't ask me, but I was a bike mechanic for a couple years, and a narrow wide chainring with a compatible chain will definitely yield better results particularly in avoiding dropped chains. That said, you don't strictly have to, and you may never have a single issue with a non 1x chainring. Good luck!
Right on! It's awesome to have 1x options for older cranks. Also, very much appreciate the inclusive attitude towards cycling, and generous approach to information dissemination.
Some day triples will rule the world
I am there. I put mb triple on old 501 Peugeot 20 yrs. ago. I am totally done, loved it, love it still. Once set up CORRECTLY they are virtually maintenance free imo! Set up CORRECTLY is the key imo. ❤
Many years ago I saw the same cyclist, every day, same place, riding their 21-speed (3x7) mountain bike, and only ever shifting the chainrings, in effect the rear cogset was a waste. And always great to hear a shout for Dream Cycle and Darren. YVR
@@louparsons 3x1, love it
94BCD 5 Bolt - affordible options??? Hell yeah!!!! Need those. My biggest grip is chainlinee/q-factor issues trying to run various cranks to do 2 and 1 x setups on older bikes sometimes those tolerences are just too tight - and also fitting more modern cranks offset chainrings to re-establish sub 50mm chianlines... So it would be awesome to have offset rings specifically for fittng newer boost etc. cranks on older frames. Up to say a 38T for MTB's..
If you can use a 2x or 3x properly they are great, 1x are very easy and simple in comparison, I have triples on all my bikes, as I do use all the rings and front mech
the simplicity of a 1x drivetrain made cycling more enjoyable for me. I felt with my last bike (3x9), I never knew what gear I was suppose to be in.
I own 2 bikes at this moment both have 3x9 and it feels wrong.
I wan't to have 1by on one of them and the other maybe 2by....
On my 90's mtb I rarelly use the smaller one at front, most of the time I only use the middle one already, so that's why I assume 1by would be better for it.
It's an understandable problem, you have to take a look at the exact gear ratios on a graph to then know how to 'progress' through your gears. It's not exactly intuitive, but it certainly isn't impossible to figure out.
However, you can keep things simple and not sweat the small stuff. For a triple, ride using the middle chainring for most of your riding. If it's too easy to pedal despite being in the smallest cog, shift into the largest chainring, and shift from the smallest rear cog to a larger one. Vice versa for if it's too hard to pedal.
@@gerekappo I don't think I'll ever go back to 3x. 2x at most. All my current bikes are 90s mtb 1x conversions.
If you want to do a cheap 1x conversion with your current setup, just take off the front shifter and derailleur after you've set your chain on the middle chainring. You already have all the parts to try out the 1x experience.
wow, asymmetric chainring is kind of a gamechanger, I'd love to do a track build with a road crank and a smaller rear cog
Great video, I did make one of my 90s bike a 1x with a stridsland chainring and I like it for all the reasons you mentioned. I use all my gears but many folks don’t, I ofter hear people at the coops asking for advice on the 1x but they are turned off by all the work and $$$ that goes into the conversion. But in reality it wasn’t so bad, reddit had a lot of haters too. Next time I need a chainring, Ill check out your opinions.
I think we all have our own preferences when it comes to gearing. I feel that one by has restricted overall range and chainline issues especially on short chainstay bikes unlike your beautiful Atlantis. A double corrects these problems but you need to be able to use a front mech which isn't too difficult especially if you can unlearn indexing and get away from treating your gears like those of an automobile. A third chainring is then a lightweight emergency extra which comes in handy at the top of a long alpine climb when turning the last hairpin you fi d a sheep in the middle of the road and lose your rhythm.
Hi there. I believe you operate out of the same building as IRD? I emailed them last week about their 94BCD chainrings but got no reply. Can you help?
Try Deckas Chainring it is cheaper. Mine i used it for 24,000 kilometers it is still rock solid. Here in my country we could still buy old model bike parts brand new. For example a chainring for 5 bolts spider arm and od course BB for that model etc
Cycling moves in fads - this is a current one. Don't worry... we'll all be back to 3x up front once it's trendy again 🤣
Or at least wide range doubles!
I'm just about to go 1 x on an old MTB and somewhere I read that you should use a narrow wide chainring for that. But is is it really so? What does the Expert say? Thank you!
I know you didn't ask me, but I was a bike mechanic for a couple years, and a narrow wide chainring with a compatible chain will definitely yield better results particularly in avoiding dropped chains. That said, you don't strictly have to, and you may never have a single issue with a non 1x chainring. Good luck!
@@leestuurmans2837 Thank you, Lee!
110 bcd 5 bolt is not going anywhere!
Cyclist should treat their bike as leg strengthening machine instead of just pure aerobic.
This is such BS, I believe 1x are a joke of a drive train or crank choice, but ride what you like and want.