Hi, good video.... The 14 ft/lbs is incorrect for the chain case torque. The correct torque value is 96 in/lbs or 8 ft /lbs... Anything greater will begin to stretch the bolts...These are mild steel bolts because of the magnesium chain case.... Anything harder for bolts will also deflect the ears on the cover and most likely fracture them, 96 in/lbs is more than enough for this application. Cheers Rob
Hey NO1B4ME, Thank you for stopping by the channel to check out the video.. And, thank you for the correct torque spec on the chaincase. It’s greatly appreciated. 👍🏼I figured the 14 ft lbs listed in the service manual was incorrect but I couldn’t find anything to prove that wrong. I’ve been doing maintenance for over 36 yrs now and you know when tightening a screw or bolt just doesn’t feel right. Thank you again, Take Care 👍🏼
Hey Nolan, Welcome to the channel and thanks for stopping by to check out the video. Now after all these years I finally own an Arctic Cat , one thing I had noticed is a lack of detailed videos on UA-cam showing how things actually come apart. I have some great videos coming out soon on the T-Cat and upgrading the Procross chassis in general. Also, I believe I finally figured out how to get away from the cable scratchers drilled into the rails and install a set of Skidoo Tunnel scratchers on a ProCross Cat. Stay Tuned. 😉
The sidewinder manual lists 12 lbft for those chain case bolts. However, even that is too much. I found that 9 to 10 lbft is the most torque I feel comfortable applying to those bolts.
Enjoyed your video. It is nice to see someone working on a sled similar to mine. I have done the mods you have done; some are a little different than yours, but along the same lines. I have done the side panel mod also, but I still remove the muffler to do the chain adjustment, oil lines are in the way. You might be able to go thru the bell pan and reach it. I would do the drive shaft saver; you probably know this already. Thanks for the great videos I have watched most of them.
Hey Edward, Thanks for stopping by to check out the videos. I’m glad you’re enjoying them, And welcome to the channel. I have a bunch of videos that’ll be coming out with all kinds of upgrades including some Hurricane performance stuff. Yes I have the Precision EFI driveshaft saver along with the belly protector to edit the video for yet. I’m trying to get more of my wife’s Rev Project done, then I’ll be back on the Cat. I still have the rear Stage 5 Elkas to install yet along with the Speedwerx quick adjust coupler block and Dupont Slides. Then I‘ll get into the Hurricane Performance items. 😁😉 Take Care🤙🏼
@@jessekalvik The 225 tune cluster selection was a great improvement but when you select 240 or 270 you better be paying attention. It’s almost scary fast and oh man… What an adrenaline rush !! I’m loving it.. 🤙🏼
Nice video. Since your doing very much needed upgrades to the chaincase you might want to check out barn of parts drive shaft saver. Almost all drive shafts will fail over time with the horrible design cat has. Barn of parts has a upgrade. Since your sled is almost new now is the time to do it. I really enjoy your videos. I have a 900 Turbo and am interested how much difference the power steering is compared to your old 900 Turbo. Keep up the great work.
Hey Toby, Thanks for the suggestion..👍🏼I already have the driveshaft saver from Precision EFI ready to go in. I haven’t made it to that side of the sled yet. My goal is to make the sled a rock solid machine. I figured I’d start on the right front, then left front then finish with the rear suspension with the completion of the Elka Stage 5’s Speedwerx quick adjusting coupler blocks and a set of Dupont slides.. There’ll be a video for the DSS and Precision EFI’s Belly Guard to protect it if a belt blows from the added HP. 😉 The EPS is simply amazing over the 900T heavier steering. If you were riding on trails like up in Quebec or Cochrane ON you wouldn’t notice the EPS as during high speeds it pretty much turns off. Where it shines is through the woods. The tight and twisties are all that is around me. Take Care
@@mattwedig2655 Hey Matt, HEre’s the link where I bought mine. Looks like they’re temporarily unavailable. racewerx.myshopify.com/collections/products/products/rapid-block-procross Take Care
Thanks Jeffrey and thanks for taking the time to watch the videos. It’s appreciated. Those ZR7000’s are nice sleds for sure 👍🏼 I’m glad you’re enjoying the Maine footage.. It’s definitely an amazing area to ride.. Take Care 🤙🏼
Hey, you're awesome. Thanks very much for sharing…. I have mine opened up now and discovered I needed a new top gear badly. I didn't know about the Precision EFI Chain tensioner. did it quiet things down a bit?
Hey Eddie, Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the videos. It’s appreciated. I really didn’t hear any noise difference between the two but I can say the longevity and dependability of the new tensioner should be much better for sure. Arctic Cat finally updated their service manual for the chaincase cover and 14 ft lbs was way to much as you see. The correct torque for the chain case cover is (9 ft-lb or 108 in.-lb) While you have the chain case apart check the post for the chain tensioner. That cheap stock Cat chain tensioner has a tendency to chew into the pivot post and eventually you’ll need to replace the case itself. I did this upgrade also and it’s well worth the investment. Here’s the link below. Look at all the photos Precision shows. You’ll see an example of what’s happening with the wear issue into the post. Mine was much worse than their example. precisionefi.com/en-us/collections/9000-series/products/hd-tensionner Take Care and if you have any questions feel free to ask. 👍🏼
Much appreciated. I'll order one of them up. I have a 19 SRX and happened upon all these upgrades by chance. Happy I found this. I'm surprised Yamaha didn't go through these Cat chassis and work out the engineering flaws before attaching their name to it. Disappointing. Did you complete the driveshaft saver mod? If so, which manufacturer did you go with? Thanks bro@@SometimeIsNow
@@eddiepotts982 Yeah, that’s one thing that’s disappointing with YamaCat is that they didn’t address all the known issues sooner. They have made improvements over the last couple years as far as the driveshaft. The ‘22 driveshafts and newer are hardened and the bearing doesn’t chew into it like in the past years. My buddy @RichOutdoors and I both bought the PEFI driveshaft saver and wasn’t impressed so we removed them. It created a terrible bearing growling noise once installed that we both didn’t like.. It literally made the driveline loud and sounded like the bearing had zero grease in it after the driveshaft saver was installed. We weren’t impressed so they both sit on the shelf in my garage. Some will argue you have to indicate the driveshaft saver inside the driveshaft so it’s running true center.. It’s not a simple throw it in and torque it to spec install as shown on PEFI website. I did a bunch of service work to Rich’s sled last month and while I had the rear skid out I removed the brake caliper and bearing to check the shaft and it was just fine with over 5000 km’s (3200 Miles) on it with the new hardened driveshaft upgrade Cat made starting in ‘22. I did replace his chinesium bearing with a much better Timken bearing. I popped off the seal on the stock driveshaft bearing and it was bad. Very little grease and it was all gummed up and rusty.. I’m glad I recommended changing that chinesium junk out for a better bearing. It’s definitely going to be a yearly part of the service is to check and repack the driveshaft bearing going forward. I currently have my rear skid out right now and just got my shocks back from getting serviced. I have been recording everything and I will be doing videos on replacing all the bearings in the rear skid wheels to Timken and also replacing the bearing in the driveshaft to a USA made Timken.. Rich and I also purchased the Sidewinder brake rotor as its drilled to replace the solid Cat rotor. Another great upgrade in my book for the Big Kitty.
Wow, That sounds intense. I'll finish up the top gear mod and look into my drive shaft bearing condition. Looking forward to your video on that. Thanks again...@@SometimeIsNow
Good video. Unfortunately this should have never been necessary if Cat would have addressed the problem years ago. It’s sad you have to this to make a sled reliable and for piece of mind. Here’s hoping they have addressed all of this for the new chassis comming out.
Hey Kranky, Yeah it is what it is. I believe Cat already upgraded the top gear with a new bushing Assy but I wanted to go needle bearing for the added hp coming. I still love the sled, and it gives me something to tinker with to supply my UA-cam fam with content while everyone waits for snow. 😁 I honestly wouldn’t have upgraded all these items if it were going to stay stock this season 😁🤫 There’s a two year warranty on it so it wasn’t needed in stock form. Oh.. And yes… The new Catalyst chassis has addressed all these by going to a belt drive system. Two pulleys and a belt, that’s it. 👍🏼 Take Care
I believe the top gear only spins when the sled is in reverse, and then not very fast. When moving forward it is locked to the jack shaft. How are they wearing so fast?
Very nice install. 👍💪🏅 For those with the Yamacat version, my 2021 Viper LTX GT has a T-30 bolt down in front under the bumper to remove to remove the hood...
Hey Doucetrr2007, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. It’s appreciated. I just upgraded the chain tensioner to the Precision EFI HD tensioner they just came out with as the stock tensioner is cutting into the pivot point which is part of the chaincase housing. precisionefi.com/en-us/collections/9000-series/products/hd-tensionner Take Care
Hi greg , great video I’m doing a track replacement on my 19 zr9000 RR putting in a storm 150 and adding 144 woody mega bites 1.575 studs , when it’s time to reinstall everything I’m putting in the dmc HD top gear , shift pads and the pefi tensioner and skate . What Milwaukee impact wrench are u useing and torx wrenches do u use , thanks and keep those videos comming
Hey Brian, Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the video. Those are all great upgrades your doing to your sled. 👍🏼 I installed the PEFI HD tensioner during last season as the stock tensioner arm was digging into the post housing. I filmed it but never posted the video of the install. I just finished working on RichOutdoors T-Cat and updating all his rear skid bearings along with the driveshaft bearing to Timken. I sh*t canned all the Chinesism bearings. Now I’m going to do all the bearings in my T-cat here soon. As for the Milwaukee ratchet wrench’s there the M12 1/4” and 3/8” ratchets. www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m12-fuel-3-8-high-speed-ratchet-bare-tool-2567-20/045242593118.html www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m12-fuel-1-4-high-speed-ratchet-bare-tool-2566-20/045242593088.html The sockets are Tekton Torx sockets . www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Socket-10-Piece-T6-T30-SHB90103/dp/B07RT6QTZR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YVRHIGRMW0TO&keywords=Tekton+1%2F4%22+torx+sockets&qid=1698437632&sprefix=tekton+1%2F4+torx+sockets%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-1 Hope this helps. Take Care 🤙🏼
@@garrettcrites9693 Oh nice.. I like the Sidewinder’s and SRX’s. I went with the T-cat for the EPS option. Did you see any wear & play in the top gear bushing? I just finished installing a first ever set of Skidoo tunnel Ice Scratchers on the T-Cat. 😉 Video to come soon.
what you want to do when torquing that chaincase is to step the torque values all and do star patterns. I typically do about 4 torque steps before hitting the max torque value, but I only go to about 120in/lbs and start at about 80. The manual says 12ft/lbs Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw) Chassis 12 Chain Case Cover Chain Case 12 Also you may want to pull your oil tubes as there is some oil that gets left in there.
Hey AJ, Thanks for checking out the video and the suggestions on torque pattern. 👍🏼Actually I found on Page 8 of the 2022 Arctic cat 9000 Service manual under Torque specs it states: Chain Case (Cap Screw) Chassis 10 ft-lb Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw) Chassis 13 ft-lb Chain Case Cover Chain Case 9 ft-lb 🤷🏼♂ Take Care
@@SometimeIsNow yeah the values keep changing. I had one leak on me once. I just start at the bottom and then star it across the top and sides like a wheel on a hub.
@@ajbertelson9871 Hey AJ, Yeah.. I could see that happening. I know a lot of people re-use the seal, but I change it now every time I split the chain case to drain it, just to be on the safe side I always pull it apart to peak and inspect, and also to wipe the speedo magnets off of debris so the glob of tiny filings and goo don’t start wearing into the case cover. Cheers buddy 🤙🏼
@@MrGrobert1 Hey MrGrobert1, The Torx head screws are the ones that hold the chain case cover on. According to the service manual there must be a use of cap screws that hold the chain case onto the tunnel. I've never had that portion apart and hope to never need to remove the whole case from the tunnel. I just replaced my chain tensioner to the updated HD tensioner from Precision EFI as I noticed the stock adjuster is indeed wearing into the chains case pivot post. If that kept wearing it would cause someone to replace the whole chain case from the tunnel as it's part of the case. Mine was a little worse than the photo Precision displays on their website. I'm glad I caught it before it did more damage. Check it out here and you can see the wear issue. precisionefi.com/en-us/products/hd-tensionner Take Care 👍🏼
Hey Boosted, The cordless ratchet I have is the Milwaukee 2567-20 M12 FUEL Brushless Lithium-Ion 3/8 in. Cordless High Speed Ratchet which is a 12 volt. I also have the 1/4” version ratchet and the Milwaukee M12 FUEL 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench. I’m very impressed with these ratchets. They are all 12v and brushless. Whichever brand you decide, make sure it’s brushless. Take Care buddy👍🏼
I’m following the Manual to reinstall but when I clock the female gear the 20% clockwise I can’t get the reverse motor to line up, it’s about 1/2 a tooth off. Do I just rotate the reverse motor against itself for the holes to line up?
Hey shnill, The manual does show clocking the female gear 20% but the most important thing is to make sure the female gear is all the way counterclockwise when you drop the actuator on. That’ll be your forward on the gear set inside the chaincase.
Shnill, Did you figure the reverse actuator out? I was working on @richoutdoors T-cat today and ran into the same issue you’re having. I clocked the female gear at 20 degrees, then drop the actuator on and lined up the 3 screws. When you fire the sled up it’ll be fine. Just make sure when you’re done you turn the track to verify the secondary turns. Then cycle through reverse and forward 5 times to confirm you did it correctly.
Hey Isaac, Nice !! Must be great working with the Cat dealer. 👍🏼 Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the video. Just a FYI, I found on page 8 of the 2022 T-cat Service Manual it calls for 9ft lbs of torque for the chaincase cover. Take Care buddy and enjoy working and learning the Cats.🤙🏼
Hey Eddie, Thank for stopping by the channel. Yeah I would say major screw up on their part. AC corrected it in the 2023 manual and now has it listed as 9ft lbs or 108in lbs which made more sense. Once I seen this I added it to the description of this video hoping everyone watching would notice the update. Take Care 🤙🏼
Yep, I started with 12 ft lbs and felt one of the top screws continue on as if it started slipping the thread. Then I recalled watching this video a while back and came back to it.. I went by feel for the rest of them. I'll just leave that one screw till next time I gotta service it…. Thanks for the info @@SometimeIsNow
Hey pdh, The screws were actually pretty tight and they did have loctite on them from the factory which in the past I believe is why they were having issues because there wasn’t loctite.. I’m not totally sure what was causing that outside screw to back out in years past other than maybe that tiny needle bearing in the pin seizing up and backing out the screw. 🤷🏼♂ If I had to venture a guess, I don’t think it would pose an issue now but I personally didn’t want to take the chance with me adding the extra HP, so i changed out that roller for the shoe that doesn’t spin. Take Care. 👍🏼
Hey Dave, Thanks for stopping by to check out the video. The cheapest I found was Amazon for the Aluminum Extreme Max Lift. www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5800-1184-Aluminum-Snowmobile/dp/B0189D78RM Take Care 🤙🏼
Oh yes… Definitely.. It’s not so much the chaincase that’s large, It’s the oil tank that directly mounts to the outside of it.. It’s quite the contraption for sure. Dry sump motor and has to hold the oil somewhere. Not the best design.
Hey Doug, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. Nothing for formal snowmobile mechanics training. I’ve just been working on snowmobiles since I was very young with keeping the old MotoSki sleds I had running. Everything I own I purchase the service manual for it and work on it myself. I’ve been in the maintenance field my whole career until I retired two years ago. I was responsible for maintaining million dollar high speed production machines that had to hold tight tolerances within tenths of a thousandth. Take Care 👍🏼
Just a question not related to this video. If left for any length of time like a month does your battery drop below voltage required to start? I have a 2022 Yamaha SRX and I can not find the draw, I put in a new battery and same thing
Hey David, Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the video. I honestly don’t have the issue as my sled stays hooked to a Battery Tender when not in use and with this past winter it’s been hooked up “ALL WINTER” 😩 If you have experience using a good multimeter to check amps on your battery terminals for parasitic draw, then removing one fuse at a time and watching the meter. You can also use the multimeter and test across each fuse. If it stays at zero there’s no draw through that fuse (whatever it goes to). Here’s two different methods to show you what I’m referring to. Take into consideration these are for vehicles so pay no attention to the car specific stuff but the testing principal is the same. ua-cam.com/video/YhC8xj5vHUg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/lRcj1fQcWwU/v-deo.html Any questions let me know Good luck and Take care.
Yes you can, Just back off the tension on your current chain adjuster bolt so you can pull the stock one out and install the HD Precision one in its place and reset according to Precision recommend printed on the new adjuster. If you have any questions let me know. I just installed mine with no issues. 👍🏼 Take Care
Hi, good video.... The 14 ft/lbs is incorrect for the chain case torque.
The correct torque value is 96 in/lbs or 8 ft /lbs... Anything greater will begin to stretch the bolts...These are mild steel bolts because of the magnesium chain case.... Anything harder for bolts will also deflect the ears on the cover and most likely fracture them, 96 in/lbs is more than enough for this application.
Cheers
Rob
Hey NO1B4ME, Thank you for stopping by the channel to check out the video.. And, thank you for the correct torque spec on the chaincase. It’s greatly appreciated. 👍🏼I figured the 14 ft lbs listed in the service manual was incorrect but I couldn’t find anything to prove that wrong. I’ve been doing maintenance for over 36 yrs now and you know when tightening a screw or bolt just doesn’t feel right. Thank you again, Take Care 👍🏼
What is the model number on the 1/4 inch torque wrench?
Best complete video I’ve seen thanks for documenting this!!!
Hey Nolan, Welcome to the channel and thanks for stopping by to check out the video. Now after all these years I finally own an Arctic Cat , one thing I had noticed is a lack of detailed videos on UA-cam showing how things actually come apart. I have some great videos coming out soon on the T-Cat and upgrading the Procross chassis in general. Also, I believe I finally figured out how to get away from the cable scratchers drilled into the rails and install a set of Skidoo Tunnel scratchers on a ProCross Cat. Stay Tuned. 😉
The sidewinder manual lists 12 lbft for those chain case bolts. However, even that is too much. I found that 9 to 10 lbft is the most torque I feel comfortable applying to those bolts.
Great video, gives me some confidence to do this preventive maintenance myself.
Thanks pdh.. I had NO1B4ME comment with the updated torque spec on the chaincase cover. It’s 8ft lbs or 96in/lbs
Hurricane putting out quality products, I’ll have to check them out
Stay tuned speeder, Got a bunch of Hurricane performance content coming soon. 🤙🏼
Nice working on new stuff. Everything is clean and comes apart. You better get back on that 5 fity soon 👍🏻
Yes, It is a little easier working on brand new stuff, and… That’s what the Mrs just told me, I better get back on her 5 fitty fan soon. 😂
I've been looking for this vid tks alot
Hey Garth, Perfect.. You in the right place then if you’re looking for T-cat/Sidewinder maintenance and upgrade videos 👍🏼😁
Can i have a list of all the upgrade part
Hey Jimbo, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. I listed the upgrades I made to my sled in the description above. Take Care 👍🏼
Enjoyed your video. It is nice to see someone working on a sled similar to mine. I have done the mods you have done; some are a little different than yours, but along the same lines. I have done the side panel mod also, but I still remove the muffler to do the chain adjustment, oil lines are in the way. You might be able to go thru the bell pan and reach it. I would do the drive shaft saver; you probably know this already. Thanks for the great videos I have watched most of them.
Hey Edward, Thanks for stopping by to check out the videos. I’m glad you’re enjoying them, And welcome to the channel. I have a bunch of videos that’ll be coming out with all kinds of upgrades including some Hurricane performance stuff. Yes I have the Precision EFI driveshaft saver along with the belly protector to edit the video for yet. I’m trying to get more of my wife’s Rev Project done, then I’ll be back on the Cat. I still have the rear Stage 5 Elkas to install yet along with the Speedwerx quick adjust coupler block and Dupont Slides. Then I‘ll get into the Hurricane Performance items. 😁😉 Take Care🤙🏼
New sidewinder owner, great video.
Thanks 👍 So far its been an amazing sled.. I’m loving the T-cat and the power, especially with the Hurricane cluster tune. 😁
@Sometime Is Now the acceleration takes my breath away stock, hard for me to fathom having one of these tunes. In due time...
@@jessekalvik The 225 tune cluster selection was a great improvement but when you select 240 or 270 you better be paying attention. It’s almost scary fast and oh man… What an adrenaline rush !! I’m loving it.. 🤙🏼
Nice video. Since your doing very much needed upgrades to the chaincase you might want to check out barn of parts drive shaft saver. Almost all drive shafts will fail over time with the horrible design cat has. Barn of parts has a upgrade. Since your sled is almost new now is the time to do it. I really enjoy your videos. I have a 900 Turbo and am interested how much difference the power steering is compared to your old 900 Turbo. Keep up the great work.
Hey Toby, Thanks for the suggestion..👍🏼I already have the driveshaft saver from Precision EFI ready to go in. I haven’t made it to that side of the sled yet. My goal is to make the sled a rock solid machine. I figured I’d start on the right front, then left front then finish with the rear suspension with the completion of the Elka Stage 5’s Speedwerx quick adjusting coupler blocks and a set of Dupont slides.. There’ll be a video for the DSS and Precision EFI’s Belly Guard to protect it if a belt blows from the added HP. 😉 The EPS is simply amazing over the 900T heavier steering. If you were riding on trails like up in Quebec or Cochrane ON you wouldn’t notice the EPS as during high speeds it pretty much turns off. Where it shines is through the woods. The tight and twisties are all that is around me. Take Care
@@SometimeIsNow got a link to the quick adjust couple blocks ? I cannot find them on their website.
@@mattwedig2655 Hey Matt, HEre’s the link where I bought mine. Looks like they’re temporarily unavailable. racewerx.myshopify.com/collections/products/products/rapid-block-procross
Take Care
WTF? I can't believe how crappy these cat chassis are engineered and to think Yamaha would put their name on them...
Very informative video, I’m not a mechanic but learned a lot. I ride a 2014 ZR 7000, very similar to your T Cat. Enjoy your Maine videos as well.
Thanks Jeffrey and thanks for taking the time to watch the videos. It’s appreciated. Those ZR7000’s are nice sleds for sure 👍🏼 I’m glad you’re enjoying the Maine footage.. It’s definitely an amazing area to ride.. Take Care 🤙🏼
Hey, you're awesome. Thanks very much for sharing…. I have mine opened up now and discovered I needed a new top gear badly. I didn't know about the Precision EFI Chain tensioner. did it quiet things down a bit?
Hey Eddie, Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the videos. It’s appreciated. I really didn’t hear any noise difference between the two but I can say the longevity and dependability of the new tensioner should be much better for sure. Arctic Cat finally updated their service manual for the chaincase cover and 14 ft lbs was way to much as you see. The correct torque for the chain case cover is (9 ft-lb or 108 in.-lb)
While you have the chain case apart check the post for the chain tensioner. That cheap stock Cat chain tensioner has a tendency to chew into the pivot post and eventually you’ll need to replace the case itself. I did this upgrade also and it’s well worth the investment. Here’s the link below. Look at all the photos Precision shows. You’ll see an example of what’s happening with the wear issue into the post. Mine was much worse than their example.
precisionefi.com/en-us/collections/9000-series/products/hd-tensionner
Take Care and if you have any questions feel free to ask. 👍🏼
Much appreciated. I'll order one of them up. I have a 19 SRX and happened upon all these upgrades by chance. Happy I found this. I'm surprised Yamaha didn't go through these Cat chassis and work out the engineering flaws before attaching their name to it. Disappointing.
Did you complete the driveshaft saver mod? If so, which manufacturer did you go with?
Thanks bro@@SometimeIsNow
@@eddiepotts982 Yeah, that’s one thing that’s disappointing with YamaCat is that they didn’t address all the known issues sooner. They have made improvements over the last couple years as far as the driveshaft. The ‘22 driveshafts and newer are hardened and the bearing doesn’t chew into it like in the past years.
My buddy @RichOutdoors and I both bought the PEFI driveshaft saver and wasn’t impressed so we removed them. It created a terrible bearing growling noise once installed that we both didn’t like.. It literally made the driveline loud and sounded like the bearing had zero grease in it after the driveshaft saver was installed. We weren’t impressed so they both sit on the shelf in my garage. Some will argue you have to indicate the driveshaft saver inside the driveshaft so it’s running true center.. It’s not a simple throw it in and torque it to spec install as shown on PEFI website.
I did a bunch of service work to Rich’s sled last month and while I had the rear skid out I removed the brake caliper and bearing to check the shaft and it was just fine with over 5000 km’s (3200 Miles) on it with the new hardened driveshaft upgrade Cat made starting in ‘22. I did replace his chinesium bearing with a much better Timken bearing. I popped off the seal on the stock driveshaft bearing and it was bad. Very little grease and it was all gummed up and rusty.. I’m glad I recommended changing that chinesium junk out for a better bearing. It’s definitely going to be a yearly part of the service is to check and repack the driveshaft bearing going forward.
I currently have my rear skid out right now and just got my shocks back from getting serviced. I have been recording everything and I will be doing videos on replacing all the bearings in the rear skid wheels to Timken and also replacing the bearing in the driveshaft to a USA made Timken.. Rich and I also purchased the Sidewinder brake rotor as its drilled to replace the solid Cat rotor. Another great upgrade in my book for the Big Kitty.
Wow, That sounds intense. I'll finish up the top gear mod and look into my drive shaft bearing condition. Looking forward to your video on that.
Thanks again...@@SometimeIsNow
That's quite a process for sure.you got very lucky with that broken bolt coming out. That could've turned out really ugly. Excellent job as always...
Yeah, I was lucky the bolt broke like it did instead of deep inside the threads, And not having loctite on it helped tremendously. 😬 Thanks buddy.. 👍🏼
Tell your dog I love him!
I will !! Thanks for watching djay.. Riley says hello..
Good video.
Unfortunately this should have never been necessary if Cat would have addressed the problem years ago.
It’s sad you have to this to make a sled reliable and for piece of mind.
Here’s hoping they have addressed all of this for the new chassis comming out.
Hey Kranky, Yeah it is what it is. I believe Cat already upgraded the top gear with a new bushing Assy but I wanted to go needle bearing for the added hp coming. I still love the sled, and it gives me something to tinker with to supply my UA-cam fam with content while everyone waits for snow. 😁 I honestly wouldn’t have upgraded all these items if it were going to stay stock this season 😁🤫 There’s a two year warranty on it so it wasn’t needed in stock form. Oh.. And yes… The new Catalyst chassis has addressed all these by going to a belt drive system. Two pulleys and a belt, that’s it. 👍🏼 Take Care
I believe the top gear only spins when the sled is in reverse, and then not very fast. When moving forward it is locked to the jack shaft. How are they wearing so fast?
Very nice install. 👍💪🏅 For those with the Yamacat version, my 2021 Viper LTX GT has a T-30 bolt down in front under the bumper to remove to remove the hood...
Hey Doucetrr2007, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. It’s appreciated. I just upgraded the chain tensioner to the Precision EFI HD tensioner they just came out with as the stock tensioner is cutting into the pivot point which is part of the chaincase housing.
precisionefi.com/en-us/collections/9000-series/products/hd-tensionner
Take Care
Hi greg , great video I’m doing a track replacement on my 19 zr9000 RR putting in a storm 150 and adding 144 woody mega bites 1.575 studs , when it’s time to reinstall everything I’m putting in the dmc HD top gear , shift pads and the pefi tensioner and skate . What Milwaukee impact wrench are u useing and torx wrenches do u use , thanks and keep those videos comming
Hey Brian, Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the video. Those are all great upgrades your doing to your sled. 👍🏼 I installed the PEFI HD tensioner during last season as the stock tensioner arm was digging into the post housing. I filmed it but never posted the video of the install. I just finished working on RichOutdoors T-Cat and updating all his rear skid bearings along with the driveshaft bearing to Timken. I sh*t canned all the Chinesism bearings. Now I’m going to do all the bearings in my T-cat here soon.
As for the Milwaukee ratchet wrench’s there the M12 1/4” and 3/8” ratchets. www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m12-fuel-3-8-high-speed-ratchet-bare-tool-2567-20/045242593118.html
www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m12-fuel-1-4-high-speed-ratchet-bare-tool-2566-20/045242593088.html
The sockets are Tekton Torx sockets . www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Socket-10-Piece-T6-T30-SHB90103/dp/B07RT6QTZR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YVRHIGRMW0TO&keywords=Tekton+1%2F4%22+torx+sockets&qid=1698437632&sprefix=tekton+1%2F4+torx+sockets%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-1
Hope this helps.
Take Care 🤙🏼
This video really helped me get through the process. Thank you! Hopefully everything works for me!
Hey Garrett, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. What sled do you have and what update did you complete in the chaincase? Take Care 🤙🏼
@@SometimeIsNow I have a 2018 sidewinder! I replaced the top gear and the shift fork pads!
@@garrettcrites9693 Oh nice.. I like the Sidewinder’s and SRX’s. I went with the T-cat for the EPS option. Did you see any wear & play in the top gear bushing? I just finished installing a first ever set of Skidoo tunnel Ice Scratchers on the T-Cat. 😉 Video to come soon.
@@SometimeIsNow no play in the top gear for me but the sled only has 419 miles on it.
what you want to do when torquing that chaincase is to step the torque values all and do star patterns. I typically do about 4 torque steps before hitting the max torque value, but I only go to about 120in/lbs and start at about 80. The manual says 12ft/lbs
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw) Chassis 12
Chain Case Cover Chain Case 12
Also you may want to pull your oil tubes as there is some oil that gets left in there.
Hey AJ, Thanks for checking out the video and the suggestions on torque pattern. 👍🏼Actually I found on Page 8 of the 2022 Arctic cat 9000 Service manual under Torque specs it states:
Chain Case (Cap Screw) Chassis 10 ft-lb
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw) Chassis 13 ft-lb
Chain Case Cover Chain Case 9 ft-lb
🤷🏼♂ Take Care
@@SometimeIsNow yeah the values keep changing. I had one leak on me once. I just start at the bottom and then star it across the top and sides like a wheel on a hub.
@@ajbertelson9871 Hey AJ, Yeah.. I could see that happening. I know a lot of people re-use the seal, but I change it now every time I split the chain case to drain it, just to be on the safe side I always pull it apart to peak and inspect, and also to wipe the speedo magnets off of debris so the glob of tiny filings and goo don’t start wearing into the case cover. Cheers buddy 🤙🏼
@@SometimeIsNowWhich screw is Cap screw and Torx head screw?
@@MrGrobert1 Hey MrGrobert1, The Torx head screws are the ones that hold the chain case cover on. According to the service manual there must be a use of cap screws that hold the chain case onto the tunnel. I've never had that portion apart and hope to never need to remove the whole case from the tunnel.
I just replaced my chain tensioner to the updated HD tensioner from Precision EFI as I noticed the stock adjuster is indeed wearing into the chains case pivot post. If that kept wearing it would cause someone to replace the whole chain case from the tunnel as it's part of the case. Mine was a little worse than the photo Precision displays on their website. I'm glad I caught it before it did more damage. Check it out here and you can see the wear issue. precisionefi.com/en-us/products/hd-tensionner
Take Care 👍🏼
Hey Greg the cordless ratchet you have is how many volts?I've been looking on Amazon but most are 12volt and I wonder if that is enough.
Hey Boosted, The cordless ratchet I have is the Milwaukee 2567-20 M12 FUEL Brushless Lithium-Ion 3/8 in. Cordless High Speed Ratchet which is a 12 volt. I also have the 1/4” version ratchet and the Milwaukee M12 FUEL 1/2" Right Angle Impact Wrench. I’m very impressed with these ratchets. They are all 12v and brushless. Whichever brand you decide, make sure it’s brushless. Take Care buddy👍🏼
Thanks ,give Riley a pat for me
@@Iluvboostedsleds Will do.. He's sound asleep on his couch right now. 😁
Great video! 👏
Thanks Edd, Appreciate you stopping by the channel to check out the video. 👍🏼 Think Snow ❄️
How do you get your sled into your garage without the studs tearing up the concrete?
I use a two wheeled sled dollie and wheel it into the garage from rubber horse mats I have in the driveway. 👍🏼
I’m following the Manual to reinstall but when I clock the female gear the 20% clockwise I can’t get the reverse motor to line up, it’s about 1/2 a tooth off.
Do I just rotate the reverse motor against itself for the holes to line up?
Hey shnill,
The manual does show clocking the female gear 20% but the most important thing is to make sure the female gear is all the way counterclockwise when you drop the actuator on. That’ll be your forward on the gear set inside the chaincase.
Shnill, Did you figure the reverse actuator out? I was working on @richoutdoors T-cat today and ran into the same issue you’re having. I clocked the female gear at 20 degrees, then drop the actuator on and lined up the 3 screws. When you fire the sled up it’ll be fine. Just make sure when you’re done you turn the track to verify the secondary turns. Then cycle through reverse and forward 5 times to confirm you did it correctly.
Ya I'm a apprentice at a arctic cat dealer and that happened to me and we don't torque them just tighten them snug and you will de fine
Hey Isaac, Nice !! Must be great working with the Cat dealer. 👍🏼 Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the video. Just a FYI, I found on page 8 of the 2022 T-cat Service Manual it calls for 9ft lbs of torque for the chaincase cover. Take Care buddy and enjoy working and learning the Cats.🤙🏼
My 19 sidewinder manual calls for 12 ft lbs and even that is way too much. That's a major fk-up in the manual.
Hey Eddie,
Thank for stopping by the channel. Yeah I would say major screw up on their part. AC corrected it in the 2023 manual and now has it listed as 9ft lbs or 108in lbs which made more sense. Once I seen this I added it to the description of this video hoping everyone watching would notice the update.
Take Care 🤙🏼
Yep, I started with 12 ft lbs and felt one of the top screws continue on as if it started slipping the thread. Then I recalled watching this video a while back and came back to it.. I went by feel for the rest of them. I'll just leave that one screw till next time I gotta service it…. Thanks for the info @@SometimeIsNow
Great Video Thanks!
Thanks Chris 👍🏼
Would you say, considering how tight the screws were that held the roller tensioner in. It would potentially still be an issue backing out?
Hey pdh, The screws were actually pretty tight and they did have loctite on them from the factory which in the past I believe is why they were having issues because there wasn’t loctite.. I’m not totally sure what was causing that outside screw to back out in years past other than maybe that tiny needle bearing in the pin seizing up and backing out the screw. 🤷🏼♂ If I had to venture a guess, I don’t think it would pose an issue now but I personally didn’t want to take the chance with me adding the extra HP, so i changed out that roller for the shoe that doesn’t spin. Take Care. 👍🏼
The stand you use seems to perfect for working on your sled, where is the best place to buy one?
Hey Dave, Thanks for stopping by to check out the video.
The cheapest I found was Amazon for the Aluminum Extreme Max Lift.
www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5800-1184-Aluminum-Snowmobile/dp/B0189D78RM
Take Care 🤙🏼
Good morning Riley 😂😂😂
Riley says good morning ! RUFF RUFF ! 😂
thats one big chaincase cover
Oh yes… Definitely.. It’s not so much the chaincase that’s large, It’s the oil tank that directly mounts to the outside of it.. It’s quite the contraption for sure. Dry sump motor and has to hold the oil somewhere. Not the best design.
Where did you get your knowledge of snowmobile mechanics?
Hey Doug, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. Nothing for formal snowmobile mechanics training. I’ve just been working on snowmobiles since I was very young with keeping the old MotoSki sleds I had running. Everything I own I purchase the service manual for it and work on it myself. I’ve been in the maintenance field my whole career until I retired two years ago. I was responsible for maintaining million dollar high speed production machines that had to hold tight tolerances within tenths of a thousandth. Take Care 👍🏼
Just a question not related to this video. If left for any length of time like a month does your battery drop below voltage required to start? I have a 2022 Yamaha SRX and I can not find the draw, I put in a new battery and same thing
Hey David,
Thanks for stopping by the channel to check out the video.
I honestly don’t have the issue as my sled stays hooked to a Battery Tender when not in use and with this past winter it’s been hooked up “ALL WINTER” 😩 If you have experience using a good multimeter to check amps on your battery terminals for parasitic draw, then removing one fuse at a time and watching the meter. You can also use the multimeter and test across each fuse. If it stays at zero there’s no draw through that fuse (whatever it goes to).
Here’s two different methods to show you what I’m referring to. Take into consideration these are for vehicles so pay no attention to the car specific stuff but the testing principal is the same.
ua-cam.com/video/YhC8xj5vHUg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/lRcj1fQcWwU/v-deo.html
Any questions let me know
Good luck and Take care.
Hi Greg,just wondering if I can install the precision chain adjuster without pulling all the gears?
Yes you can, Just back off the tension on your current chain adjuster bolt so you can pull the stock one out and install the HD Precision one in its place and reset according to Precision recommend printed on the new adjuster. If you have any questions let me know. I just installed mine with no issues. 👍🏼 Take Care
@Sometime Is Now great thanks,we got 6 inches of snow and still coming down and I put sled to bed😔
@@Iluvboostedsleds 😩 It never fails.. Sadly I also have to wait till next season, which will be here before we know it.
Just blew the chain case in my tuned MTX. Whomp whomp! Oil leaked out of very where so I know it’s bad.
😩 Ugh.. That’s not good. Sounds like it’s time to get another case and do some upgrades while you’re in there.. 🤙🏼
Best videó like ❤
Thanks for watching. It’s appreciated !! 🤙🏼
Sidewinder SRX 21/41 not 22/48
21 tooth
Hey Justin, Thanks for stopping to check out the video. 21 tooth?? Cheers 🍻
@@SometimeIsNow Yamahas come with a 21 tooth top sprocket not a 22.
I thought so. Wasn't sure when he said that in the video. I got the DMC 22 tooth replacement for my 19 SRX.@@Justin-gh4ol