1983 BMW R100RS Remove & Inspect Oil Pump
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2019
- This shows a summary of how to remove the oil pump and measure and inspect the components. You can read all the details about this work here:
brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle... - Авто та транспорт
That was very useful, thank you
You're welcome RS 7. Thanks for taking coming by and taking a look.
Great stuff, thank you
Hi Eric, You're welcome and thanks for stopping by.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage i am using your videos to overhaul my 77 R100 RS it has been VERY INSTRUCTIONAL. I wouldn't be as far as i am without this resource. THANK YOU THANK YOU
@@ericsvalgard9220 Thank you. Don't forget to click the link to the full documentation about the work that is on my on my web site that I include in each of the video descriptions. The videos are a summary of the work while the web page has all the details. Congratulations on investing in keeping another iconic first year RS on the road. I wish you success on this project. :-)
I am experiencing low oil pressure from a fresh rebuild and I have chased all of the potential areas. My last check will be the oil pump itself, which I installed myself. I'm wondering one thing - is the orientation of either inner or outer rotor important. I see no difference in the outer piece, but the inner has a slight chamfer to the D flat areas on one side only. Curious for your thoughts on this, as I dont think you made mention of it here.
Porter,
I believe the face with the chamfer goes against the engine block IIRC.
How did you determine you have low oil pressure? I used a pressure gauge connected where the oil pressure switch goes. I show it and the testing in this video:
--> ua-cam.com/video/QDuxCY-DXHw/v-deo.html
I had a flaky oil pressure indicator that made me concerned I had low oil pressure. It turned out the switch was bad.
--> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-r100rs-diagnose-intermittent-low-oil-pressure-light/
Just discovering this great video series and really appreciate your efforts! I have a question related to the oil pump...
I have recently removed and inspected the oil pump components of one of my airheads and have discovered similar scoring on the rotors and inside the pump housing. I believe the wear is from the debris of deteriorating (pitted) lifters. All of the measurements check out at the high end of spec (the bike only has 4.5K on the clock) but planning on replacing the rotors and cover just because of the scoring. Wondering how much of a concern the scoring inside the pump housing should be in terms of function and will replacement of the rotors and cover be sufficient? Thanks so much!
Hi TransistoResistor Amplication, New oil pump parts should ensure adequate oil pressure. That said, pitted cam lifters need to be replaced ASAP. Note that the rough lifter face also wears the hardened surface of the cam lobes. The correct repair for pitted lifters is to replace them and the cam shaft. The "maybe okay" method is to carefully inspect the cam lobes for any signs of scoring. If you see any, the hardened surface of the cam is gone and the lobe will wear quickly. That affects valve timing negatively.
I hope that helps.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Yes, that is both helpful and reassuring. I have indeed ordered up new lifters. I did closely inspect the cam lobes and can find no discernible wear or damage, but because the extent of the pitting to the lifters, have decided to replace the cam anyway. This is a new to me 1986 R80g/s with only 4,500 miles, which I believe to be accurate (based upon measurements of the original wear parts such as the clutch disc, brake pads and shoes and even the stator brushes). It still had many of the original assembly paint marks on the fasteners, drain and fill plugs and gaskets. The bike obviously sat for many years and in a fairly corrosive environment (Long Island). Curious if you have any opinions or speculation as to how and why this sort of lifter damage occurs. Too loose valves? Poor quality lifters? Oil type? Sitting too long? Thanks again.
@@transistoresistoramplifica8977 If a bike sits for a long time, and only gets short engine runs, acids build up in the oil and can eat away at the main bearings, rod bearings, cam lobes and cams and rocker needle bearings causing this kind of damage. And, if it's in a condensing atmosphere, like an unheated garage in a humid climate, for many years, then corrosion will do similar damage.
Replacing the camshaft makes good sense. There are two videos with links to my web site with full documentation about how I remove and install the camshaft. Good luck on your project.
What about the score marks on the block? I think that cannot be fixed.
Nigel, that is correct. I did not try to smooth out the grooves in the aluminum block as that would affect the end float of the rotors reducing oil pressure. So the bike will have to "Live with it", as I do with the aches and scars that I have accumulated over the years :-)
I had good oil pressure prior to doing this work as I tested it extensively and shot some video of how I did the testing (ua-cam.com/video/QDuxCY-DXHw/v-deo.html0) and documented the work here: (brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-r100rs-diagnose-intermittent-low-oil-pressure-light/).
I don't anticipate low oil pressure when I get the bike back on the road.