Isn't there a large washer that goes under the 5 flywheel bolts? You didn't install one. I'm doing my 11/81 RS just now, it has one. Thanks for your videos, they're sensational.
Hi Steve, There are two styles of flywheel bolts. The earlier ones used washers. The newer ones do not. The consensus is the newer bolts are the way to go as the washers were prone to breaking. For that reason, most parts fiche only show the newer bolts with no washers as available these days.
Med Amine, rotate the engine until the pistons are fully extended, which is Top Dead Center. Then position the flywheel on the crankshaft so the "OT" mark is in the timing window hole. Since the flywheel has 5 bolts, if you are one bolt off, the flywheel is 72 degrees off, so the OT mark will not be visible anywhere inside the timing window hole until you have the flywheel bolt hole lined up with the correct bolt hole in the crankshaft.
@@LBBKPHILLY When the crank throws are extended as far as they can go the crankshaft is at TDC. When the crank throws are retracted as far inside as they can go, the crankshaft is at BDC.
Rotate the crank until pistons are fully extended which is top dead center. Attach flywheel so OT mark is centered in the timing window. Since there are 5 flywheel bolts each rotates the flywheel 72 degrees, so getting the OT mark on the flywheel visible in the timing window means you have the flywheel bolt holes aligned with the crankshaft bolt holes.
I’m after some advice... I have a spare flywheel for a r75/6 which the OT and S mark are very close together ... it doesn’t seem to be the BTDC it’s should be (is it 18degrees?)... is it the wrong flywheel? The flywheel I have installed on the bike itself is different, makes me second guess which is actually the right one!
Hi Andey, Here is a link that describes the versions of the flywheel BMW made. --> bmwmotorcycletech.info/F,OT,S,Z.htm Toward the end is a link to a Butler & Smith bulletin about the markings and the degrees BTDC for the various versions. I hope it helps.
Brook's Airhead Garage thanks for the pointers! Need to read those pages properly..! But disappointingly, looks like I have a /7 flywheel... double disappointing is that I had to lug it all the way from the US when I last visited...
@@BrooksAirheadGarage just checked the Haynes, and as you say it contradicts Clymer. Seems that I can’t trust a manual after all. Dry bolts it is, thanks again Brook.
Hi Marius, At 5:10 in this video I point out that I previously installed the rear main seal and the trust washer. You don't install or remove the crankshaft rear main seal and thrust washer when removing or installing the flywheel. Here is the video showing how to install the rear thrust washer and rear main seal. --> ua-cam.com/video/sHTVadB2uSA/v-deo.html
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hello. Yes, i understand that process about main seal amd thrust washers is in this video :) Actually i've read almost all of your posts, and watched all the videos :) I appreciate your precise and clean work, i like that way you see and do the mechanical part of the motorcycle.. :) I was talking about other metal plate - washer (maybe i called it wrong) OEM: 11 22 1 335 366.
@@mariusbartusevicius8231 Hi Marius, Well, that part was not on this flywheel when I removed it, nor was it on the 1977 RS flywheel when I removed it.
Another excellent video - so thorough and professional. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Peter, Thank you, and you're welcome. :-)
Very good and especially the centering of the flywheel....it is the first time I become aware of that ...very useful. Thank you!
Hi Francesco, That little trick of centering the flywheel on the bolts does have a measurable affect on the ignition timing.
Great stuff! As far as I can recall, the sealing lip of the new Teflon main seal should not be lubricated before installing the flywheel.
Isn't there a large washer that goes under the 5 flywheel bolts? You didn't install one. I'm doing my 11/81 RS just now, it has one. Thanks for your videos, they're sensational.
Hi Steve, There are two styles of flywheel bolts. The earlier ones used washers. The newer ones do not. The consensus is the newer bolts are the way to go as the washers were prone to breaking. For that reason, most parts fiche only show the newer bolts with no washers as available these days.
good morning. the previous owner lost the position of the flywheel how can i get it back to its original place?
Med Amine, rotate the engine until the pistons are fully extended, which is Top Dead Center. Then position the flywheel on the crankshaft so the "OT" mark is in the timing window hole. Since the flywheel has 5 bolts, if you are one bolt off, the flywheel is 72 degrees off, so the OT mark will not be visible anywhere inside the timing window hole until you have the flywheel bolt hole lined up with the correct bolt hole in the crankshaft.
This is exactly what I needed thank you for asking and answering the question.
thank you very much for your reply i will do that
@@BrooksAirheadGarage how do you rotate the engine to TDC with the flywheel removed? I am also replacing a broken flywheel on my 83 r100.
@@LBBKPHILLY When the crank throws are extended as far as they can go the crankshaft is at TDC. When the crank throws are retracted as far inside as they can go, the crankshaft is at BDC.
What to do when the crankshaft has moved while the flywheel was off? The mark that I put has faded away..
Rotate the crank until pistons are fully extended which is top dead center. Attach flywheel so OT mark is centered in the timing window.
Since there are 5 flywheel bolts each rotates the flywheel 72 degrees, so getting the OT mark on the flywheel visible in the timing window means you have the flywheel bolt holes aligned with the crankshaft bolt holes.
I’m after some advice... I have a spare flywheel for a r75/6 which the OT and S mark are very close together ... it doesn’t seem to be the BTDC it’s should be (is it 18degrees?)... is it the wrong flywheel? The flywheel I have installed on the bike itself is different, makes me second guess which is actually the right one!
Hi Andey, Here is a link that describes the versions of the flywheel BMW made.
--> bmwmotorcycletech.info/F,OT,S,Z.htm
Toward the end is a link to a Butler & Smith bulletin about the markings and the degrees BTDC for the various versions. I hope it helps.
Brook's Airhead Garage thanks for the pointers! Need to read those pages properly..! But disappointingly, looks like I have a /7 flywheel... double disappointing is that I had to lug it all the way from the US when I last visited...
Hi Brook, In the Clymer it says to put a light coat of engine oil on the flywheel bolts. But you put them in dry, any reason why?
Hi Bikers Welcome, The reason is that Clymer is incorrect. There are a number of errors and omissions in their publications.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage just checked the Haynes, and as you say it contradicts Clymer. Seems that I can’t trust a manual after all. Dry bolts it is, thanks again Brook.
Hi, didnt you missed to put the big washer on the outside of the flywheel before the bolts ?
Hi Marius, At 5:10 in this video I point out that I previously installed the rear main seal and the trust washer. You don't install or remove the crankshaft rear main seal and thrust washer when removing or installing the flywheel.
Here is the video showing how to install the rear thrust washer and rear main seal.
--> ua-cam.com/video/sHTVadB2uSA/v-deo.html
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hello. Yes, i understand that process about main seal amd thrust washers is in this video :) Actually i've read almost all of your posts, and watched all the videos :) I appreciate your precise and clean work, i like that way you see and do the mechanical part of the motorcycle.. :)
I was talking about other metal plate - washer (maybe i called it wrong) OEM: 11 22 1 335 366.
@@mariusbartusevicius8231 Hi Marius, Well, that part was not on this flywheel when I removed it, nor was it on the 1977 RS flywheel when I removed it.