Thanks for your reply. I am sure the information will save me countless hours of looking. Still have countless hours of planning before I make the big decision. Right now I am working on some rust that is quite common in these older vehicles. Only one panel has serious issues, the bottom of the passenger door. Which will take countless hours to fabricate a new bottom. But that is what we do, love it. Thanks again,
You have definitely done your homework! Clean engineering! I can just about imagine, the headaches involved in building the cab frame (yolk), and the plumbing of the hydraulics. Awesome job!
Love your approach to the hydraulics used. If you can I would like some part numbers for pump valves and the hyd. cab locks. I am working on a 48 Ford F6 COE, I also have a 46 conventional cab F6. Still doing some measuring but plan to marry the two into a 4 door COE with a tilt cab. Leaning towards a 1987 F250 4x4 for the frame or my 1993 Ford 350 2wd with a 7.3 turbo and 5 speed. Not sure which makes more sense. That's a lot of hours, nights, weekends and any other time I can find. Thanks for the video.
Hey Bruce: I went to Northerntools.com for both the pump/reservoir and the control valve. Pump is a #1261009, valve is a #RD2575T4ESA1. The cab locks are Power Packer #LH50000104. They have a website, PowerPackerUS.com that could supply everything you need including cylinders. May not be the cheapest, but I like their quality. In case you haven't seen it, page 7 of my showcase website, www.vintagetrucksbarn.com/, has some decent pics of the tilt mechanics. Yeah, you can definitely spend some serious hours on this stuff! 4 years in this project and that was just the running gear! Hang on to that 7.3! I sold my 2000 a few years ago and still kick myself!!!!!
All toll, about 4 years once I decided what I was going to do with it. Wanted to keep it as original looking as possible, but also use vintage for the mods.
Sorry I didn't get that into this video. The steering is made up of 4 U-joints plus a slip joint in order to keep the steering intact, though unusable with the cab up. Brakes, clutch and throttle all stay with the chassis in a "pod" that mates up to the floor of the cab when down, as do the stick shift and e-brake. This allows all the hydraulics and mechanical to remain undisturbed. All wiring is required to flow through a main harness along with any air lines, all of which flex around the hinge points of the cab near the front. Problems encountered with the steering design almost killed the project at one point!
Are the hydr cylinders custom or off the shelf? Did you consider an air bad suspension for the cab so that it could float a bit? Those locking units are damn sexy.
Did some scrounging on the web and came up with a source for the cylinders. I'm sure they're foreign, of course, but they were off the shelf in a variety of stroke lengths making the design phase easier. I didn't show them in this video, but I did add a pair of smaller air bags between the existing front leaf springs and frame for the sole purpose of augmentation. The air was already available due to the requirements of the transmission. That 1 ton lump of iron for an engine & tranny sitting squarely over the front axle kinda took the steam out of the front springs!
My question : your cab has a suspension then when you tilt your cab what will happening to cab suspension? I mean front suspension turn with cab or if stay in place did tilting make damage on it?
Hi Ramin: Actually both in original factory form and my modified tilting form, the cab is rigid mounted to the truck frame in both the tilted and lowered positions. There is spring suspension between the frame and the front axle which is unaffected by the cab tilting. However, the steering is modified to bend and stretch when the cab tilts or is lowered to the driving position. All other controls remain in normal position with the frame. I'm hoping to make another video shortly explaining this.
By coincidence, I just a day ago established a new website. I will be updating and posting my build pages (about 11 with around 300 pictures) from back in the days of the build. I don't have the support software I used to, so it will take a little time to get it all put together, but it's in the works. www.vintagetrucksbarn.com
Unfortunately, the website was taken down July '17 after 20 years, but I do still have the content on my system(s). What exactly is it you're interested in? I'll paw through the files and see if I can find what you want. Note: I'm making an effort to put together a possible slideshow series that will bring back the info I originally had posted on the website. So far, have not been impressed with the software available out there.
For access to both the engine and transmission, and due to the size of both, a tilt cab was required. Since all potential connections with the cab needed to flex with the tilt motion, several things (brakes, clutch, shifting, throttle) were modified to stay with the chassis, and only the steering and electrical were required to flex. The steering linkage was the most difficult to design.
That's an Eaton/Fuller RTO-910, a 10 speed (5 & 2) with the overdrive option done. Way more box than I needed (capacity wise), but the price was right!
@@WARD5KUSTOMZ I wish. Original single speed 5.62 gears only. OK for the local runs, but would be nice to have something in the mid 4 range, tho this would never be out on the highway.
Thanks for your reply. I am sure the information will save me countless hours of looking. Still have countless hours of planning before I make the big decision. Right now I am working on some rust that is quite common in these older vehicles. Only one panel has serious issues, the bottom of the passenger door. Which will take countless hours to fabricate a new bottom. But that is what we do, love it. Thanks again,
You have definitely done your homework! Clean engineering! I can just about imagine, the headaches involved in building the cab frame (yolk), and the plumbing of the hydraulics. Awesome job!
Love your approach to the hydraulics used. If you can I would like some part numbers for pump valves and the hyd. cab locks. I am working on a 48 Ford F6 COE, I also have a 46 conventional cab F6. Still doing some measuring but plan to marry the two into a 4 door COE with a tilt cab. Leaning towards a 1987 F250 4x4 for the frame or my 1993 Ford 350 2wd with a 7.3 turbo and 5 speed. Not sure which makes more sense. That's a lot of hours, nights, weekends and any other time I can find. Thanks for the video.
Hey Bruce: I went to Northerntools.com for both the pump/reservoir and the control valve. Pump is a #1261009, valve is a #RD2575T4ESA1. The cab locks are Power Packer #LH50000104. They have a website, PowerPackerUS.com that could supply everything you need including cylinders. May not be the cheapest, but I like their quality. In case you haven't seen it, page 7 of my showcase website, www.vintagetrucksbarn.com/, has some decent pics of the tilt mechanics. Yeah, you can definitely spend some serious hours on this stuff! 4 years in this project and that was just the running gear! Hang on to that 7.3! I sold my 2000 a few years ago and still kick myself!!!!!
Wow clean shine!
Greetings from Puerto Rico! How long did it take you to finish this project?
All toll, about 4 years once I decided what I was going to do with it. Wanted to keep it as original looking as possible, but also use vintage for the mods.
How to replace the hydraulic cylinder to compress the cylinder
How does the steering shaft, brake lines, and wiring work to make this possible?
Sorry I didn't get that into this video. The steering is made up of 4 U-joints plus a slip joint in order to keep the steering intact, though unusable with the cab up. Brakes, clutch and throttle all stay with the chassis in a "pod" that mates up to the floor of the cab when down, as do the stick shift and e-brake. This allows all the hydraulics and mechanical to remain undisturbed. All wiring is required to flow through a main harness along with any air lines, all of which flex around the hinge points of the cab near the front. Problems encountered with the steering design almost killed the project at one point!
Are the hydr cylinders custom or off the shelf? Did you consider an air bad suspension for the cab so that it could float a bit? Those locking units are damn sexy.
Did some scrounging on the web and came up with a source for the cylinders. I'm sure they're foreign, of course, but they were off the shelf in a variety of stroke lengths making the design phase easier. I didn't show them in this video, but I did add a pair of smaller air bags between the existing front leaf springs and frame for the sole purpose of augmentation. The air was already available due to the requirements of the transmission. That 1 ton lump of iron for an engine & tranny sitting squarely over the front axle kinda took the steam out of the front springs!
+enginenut5 Please give us a tour of that sometime. It would be cool to go to total air ride.
My question : your cab has a suspension then when you tilt your cab what will happening to cab suspension?
I mean front suspension turn with cab or if stay in place did tilting make damage on it?
Hi Ramin: Actually both in original factory form and my modified tilting form, the cab is rigid mounted to the truck frame in both the tilted and lowered positions. There is spring suspension between the frame and the front axle which is unaffected by the cab tilting. However, the steering is modified to bend and stretch when the cab tilts or is lowered to the driving position. All other controls remain in normal position with the frame. I'm hoping to make another video shortly explaining this.
Thanks Moins, for your time and efforts.
You do a video on the steering linkage show the interior of the vehicle
Haven't yet, but can as the weather improves. Will try to cover the linkage both in and below the cab.
👍👍always🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸!!!
You have a build page for this truck?
By coincidence, I just a day ago established a new website. I will be updating and posting my build pages (about 11 with around 300 pictures) from back in the days of the build. I don't have the support software I used to, so it will take a little time to get it all put together, but it's in the works. www.vintagetrucksbarn.com
Jump over to www.vintagetrucksbarn.com . Most of it's up now.
Building a tilting COE. Would like to look at the data you posted on your website. Please provide that address. Thanks
Unfortunately, the website was taken down July '17 after 20 years, but I do still have the content on my system(s). What exactly is it you're interested in? I'll paw through the files and see if I can find what you want. Note: I'm making an effort to put together a possible slideshow series that will bring back the info I originally had posted on the website. So far, have not been impressed with the software available out there.
I've finished a new website showing all the things done on the truck. Check out www.vintagetrucksbarn.com .
Which area inspection required for Cab-tilt system
For access to both the engine and transmission, and due to the size of both, a tilt cab was required. Since all potential connections with the cab needed to flex with the tilt motion, several things (brakes, clutch, shifting, throttle) were modified to stay with the chassis, and only the steering and electrical were required to flex. The steering linkage was the most difficult to design.
Which transmission did you use?
That's an Eaton/Fuller RTO-910, a 10 speed (5 & 2) with the overdrive option done. Way more box than I needed (capacity wise), but the price was right!
@@enginenut5 2 speed rear?
@@WARD5KUSTOMZ I wish. Original single speed 5.62 gears only. OK for the local runs, but would be nice to have something in the mid 4 range, tho this would never be out on the highway.