How to Properly Stain Wood Using Cabot Australian Timber Oil - Amberwood
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2019
- This video illustrates a comparison between Cabot's recommendations for re-staining versus a full restoration re-stain.
► New Re-Staining Shortcut video: • The Re-Stain Shortcut ...
Recommended Supplies:
Random orbital sander with 220 grit
Deckbrite Wood Wood Cleaner & Coating Prep
Stiff-bristled Brush
Tackcloth
Terry towels
Vacuum
Staining pads
Cabot Australian Timber Oil
Protective Equipment includes: Gloves, Mask, and Drop Cloth
Nice to see a man enjoying a job well done 👍
Thank you for visiting, tina! Have a great week :)
The timber oil is so nice when freshly applied but yeah, it needs a lot of upkeep. We have it on our front porch and we reapply it every year.
I have never heard of the Australian wood oil, will definitely give it a try.
Sweet, if you think of it, report back regarding your experience with it.
I'll be re-staining the picnic table (again) this year and perhaps will post up another video for everyone.
Thank you for the comment, ray! 👍
Good video man. I bought some of this because the dude at Lowe’s said it has lasted him 6 years on his deck so far. Kind of disheartening that it’s only lasted 2, but looks great when applied!
Hey legit, thank you for the comment.
I agree, it looks beautiful!!
How did YOUR project turn out? 😄
@@VestigialVoice I haven’t applied it yet unfortunately. It’s been very rainy here, so I am waiting for the weather to dry up a bit before I start attacking my deck.
In my experience nothing lasts on a deck for 6 years. You're lucky if you get 2-3 years.
@@gregworrel2623 Same. The can actually says it lasts up to 2 years. A couple commenters here have had tremendous results lasting 5+ years. As for the rest of us, we repeat history more frequently. I appreciate your comment, bud 😄
@@gregworrel2623maybe if it's a covered deck you'll get longer
I thought oil stains mostly allowed you to re apply stain a few years later after cleaning. Without having to sand.
I deep-sanded the original paint down to bare wood. Subsequently, thoroughly clean and lighter sanding will work fine before reapplication of the Timber Oil. I put together a shorter follow-up video on the channel, if you'd like to check it out.
Good video, I learned a lot. Thank you If you do use this oil and can you do another coat the next year without having to sand??? If its not really needed.
Hi Terry,
This year, I plan to re-stain that same picnic table. I want to find out if there is a measurable difference between sanding all the way down to bare wood, as opposed to doing a simple light hand-sanding with respect to the RE-STAINING process.
Of course, I will still thoroughly clean the surfaces, this time using a pressure washer.
Stick around my channel. I plan on posting a video later this year to see if we can't improve and simplify the process.
Have a great weekend, my friend 😎
You said the original timber oil only lasted 2 years, glad I watched your video i have a 28x32 deck that I was thinking of using it on...not any more lol
Hi Mike, thank you for the comment. No stain lasts forever under ultraviolet light, but I was certainly surprised at how quickly this one faded. Have a great weekend!
@@VestigialVoice Ya I've seen other videos of people saying the same thing about the timber oil, however i've learned that it needs maintenance coats every year and a washing, You have a great weekend to sir, i'll be working on my deck...yay :P
@@mikelamz3711 whats the proper preparation for an annual maintenance coat? I am resurfacing my deck and looking for something low maintenance with decent protection. I don't mind a good wash and apply a maintenance coat yearly.
@@mikelamz3711 I have put one coat of AT oil on my eastern cedar about a month ago. Does it need a second now?
by the way it is new wood I plained
Hahaha using the wife's measuring cup, priceless!
I'm glad SOMEBODY picks up on my sense of humor 😉 Thanks for stopping by, Tony!
I have read many companies claim 2, 3, 4, even 6 years, but have never heard of anyone who can claim anything will really still look acceptable after 2 years. I had ATO applied to new seasoned western cedar and it had to be redone the following Spring. Product or applicator? I am inclined to say the problem is the applicator in both cases.
seems could of been half the length video to show this
I think that white powder stuff could be made out of boric acid, great to kill fungus. I love Cabot Timber Oil, I have a couple of things coated with this and is been outside for years, no issues.
Thank you for the comment, mike!
what type of wood is that, I watched the video but may have missed it if you said.
Thank you for the question, dlink. It was composed of a combination of four different types of wood planks: Red Cedar, Mahogany, Redwood, and... I'm sorry, I don't remember the fourth one.
Chime in, community, if you can identify it!
Have a great week, my friend :)
Why not put it on with a 3/8" roller? We had a great application of it via roller on our hot tub siding. I think they even have a spray timber oil that we were going to try between the boards (since it's a hassle to use a brush on that).
Thank you for the comment, lava.
Sounds like the roller worked out well. How many coats did you use?
This Australian Oil is very forgiving which allows for versatile applications.
Have a great weekend, bud!
Looks like you have and other can of the good stuff. In tge US The cans with the blue tops are weaker formula do to VOC laws .
although if you only got two years I guess the performance is about the same for horizontal surfaces.
Wow. This does not bode well for me. I just bought this in a darker shade for PT lumber I let season for a year.
You re-stained the table 2 years ago? This is terrible performance, certainly not what I expected based on the claims made by Cabot. Could it be that the prior stain prevented the Timber Oil from penetrating?
Any thoughts on a second coat of another product to make it last longer?
Yep, and I'll have to do it again next year :P
There was no residual ANYTHING before the first application. It was paint and I completely sanded it off.
Cabot recommends AGAINST applying products on top, but if you have ideas, I'd be open to listen. Perhaps something "breathable" with UV resistance...
Next year, I'm just going to lightly sand with 220grit and re-apply.
It is the nature of nature.
Thank you for visiting this channel, my friend :)
@@VestigialVoice Cabot has your wallet by the balls if you think reapplying every year is worth it.
@@MDBYSL haa, they probably do. I reapply every 2 years for my parents. It is all coming from the original can though 😉
Mine easily lasted 3++ years , 100% Southern Exposure/ South Oregon-- Sunshine everyday
Without UV fading? That's excellent, markus. What variations in the finishing process did you do compared to my video?
@@VestigialVoice : None-- But rigorous dedicated removal of old coating back to bare cedar.
Is swamp water actually smooth? ')
Gregory Pierce 😉
i said the same!
For all that trouble, I would have just built/bought a new table set.
Where’s the fun in that
Is not cheaper to make a new table ??
So that stain only lasted 2 years ? 😮😮😮
I thought that was supposed to be good stain
My experience was that it did not pass muster after one winter. The contractor even suggested it usually needs to be redone every year. Mild climate may work, and maybe even hot climate, but in my case ATO is no good in harsh cold climates.
I'm inclined to believe it has more to do with the ultraviolet light. The underbelly has never been re-stained and continues to look stunning.
You are doing it incorrectly, we're this the Cabot gold . Doing it this way will not give you the four to six years, as would using the Gold. And the boards will twist and warp, because you are not following good practices and even the label directions. Probably not if you do it every 18 months, as the spec sheet on this product says. This is why your product is not performing any better than a $15 to $30 dollar a gallon stain product.
Firstly, save some money and buy oxalic acid instead of deck bright. Same thing.
Secondly, you are not getting into the wood grain, by not at least lightly pressure washing. Many greasy contamination is going to shorten your job.
Thirdly, a 100 grit sanding will open up the pours better for better bite and penetration, which is essential if you want it to stick. Plus you will get a 50 times the material off. 220 will look sanded but it is only dulling and blanching the top layer. Nothing real is being removed. Plus, you are polishing and burnishing the outer layer, closing the pours, and keeping the product from penetrating the grain.
Thirdly, the can in no way, shape or form, says one coat--at least for the Gold version. They say 2 coats. Period. Not only that but one coat looks great from a color perspective, but not a sheen perspective. Furthermore, water will quickly penetrate and not enough pigment application to block uc rays from warping and twisting the board. Anyone who has a few years of experimentation between one coat and two of this product, will tell you that the 2 coated areas fair way better. A proper 2 coat will be a simple wash, and next coat will take a quarter of the material in 4 years, if you want to keep up the new look for 8 years.
Also, the tack rag was overkill.
And save the 200 between the first and second coat. Personally, I would try 320 there. A leaf blower is going to be far more efficient and effective than a shop vac and a tack rag, especially when you do a whole deck. This is important because, outside, dirt is constantly blowing from the surrounding trees, houses, wind etc. And so, you need a fast effective way to repeatedly get your surface dust free. I mean repeatedly! A shop vac and tack rag just ain't going to cut it.
Finally, despite whatever the can says--and yes, you will need 2 coats, if a 4 to 6 years is desired--, the Gold product is far more beautiful in one coat than any other product on the market, from a color perspective. So, if you actually read the gold label and follow the directions, you will screw up the beautiful perfect color by applying the second coat. What is weird is that the second coat may only sip a part of gallon, a small fraction of the first coat. Nevertheless, the color will double in darkness, no matter how thin you wipe it off. However, if you want an even sheen, you will need the second coat. Probably, the best thing would be to choose a weaker color for the second coat. They do offer bases, although they only offer 4 colors, which is never the color you are shooting for.... I have had excellent superior dura3success in mixing spar minwax varnish in with oils. I guess, this is an option for the second coat. However, I have not gone above 25 percent on siding or decks. On my picnic table, yes, very high amount of spar, up to 100 percent, which lasts many, many years, but does have unwanted film build which must be sanded off between coats.
I probably did my first deck, professionally, back in 1991. So, I have watched a lot of products, methods, age.
Sikkens 2,3, sdr, and cabbot, if power washed and applied generously (2 or 3 coats), lasts the longest. Wood, however, has a huge variation in quality, types, part of the log, wood grain direction - plus hour per year if dampness, sun, ice, snow, salt--so mileage will vary hugely. It is like selling real gas, when everyone is selling weak alcohol, and judging miles per gallon, when everyone has different automobiles from trucks to clown cars, while others drive in mountains and traffic jams daily. Reproducible tends is the only thing to go on. Still, the results might not apply to every scenario.... Thus, your film at 1/6th the recommended millage might work perfectly for your purposes and area, but will be woefully inadequate for 80 percent of decks and tables.
Would I waste my time and money on this grade of Cabot? Probably not, because if I am trying for an 18 month job to save money and time, I would stick to Olympic elite. Or ppg waterborne oil. Less ways to screw up.
With my own picknick table, I found that it was cursed. Since, 2005, every time I have used oil when the forecast said no rain, not a cloud on doppler, and every time it rained before the finish had totally dried. Every time water spotted outcome.
If I am risking weather by using a slow drying, hard to clean up, brain cell killing, oil, I want something that outperforms a quicker drying water cleanup water based stain, hands down and without any question. In the gold version, you are getting this, plus, next coat 4 years later will take half of the product of a normal stain. Plus, the deck will look like a shiny piece of new furniture for a year, so there is an art aspect in it.
I could tell this video was made by a person, who desires to do perfection, but works against himself on every front. I guess the only thing is that he had fun and the product meets his expectations, in his environment and type of wood.
With most people, they get the 18 month product and pay or put 4+ days labor, and $500 in materials for a deck stain that internal spec sheets only claim to last 18 months. In other words, 1 or 2 years, depending on the expectation of the customer.
On my 2005 deck, I tried every left over product. About everything lasted 1 year, 1.5 max. In the fall of 2006, I hit it for the first time with a 4000 osi blaster tip which stripped everything, including the soft wood grain. I hit it with a 13000 rpm 80 grit 7 inch disc, which smoothed and can strip any transparent deck stain. I mixed Sikkens, oil sdr with oil spar urethane 4 to 1, applied 2 coats, brush and dry brush method. It is 2021 and looks better than any other 1 year post job. That is going on 6 years ago. I think part of the trick was washing away some of the soft wood grain, which swells too much and delaminates. I probably wouldn't ever be this aggressive on a paying customer, who only think in short terms, wanting to have their pie and eat it too. It was a tradeoff, an extra 3 to 5 years or having the soft wood grain. For myself, the deck looks great, is protected longer. I do not care if i can feel the wood grain with my fingers, and it no longer feels flat to the touch.
I have found that it is not practical to find the time and weather every year to Refinish semi transparent stains.
Hi Burning, I really appreciate you taking the time to compose this elaborate comment. 👍
While I do not agree with all of your criticisms, you brought up some EXCELLENT points which are worth reiterating.
Expectation really should be the starting point of every project, not only from the negotiation of cost vs. end product, but also in the execution and tools used (both consumable and non-consumable).
The can clearly states "1 coat only," but if you've had good results with multiple coats, I'd be willing to give it a shot (with the understanding: shades will darken).
You mentioned different grits and oil adherence, however, the rate limiting step wasn't loss of adherence, but rather UV destruction (and perhaps a second coat may provide additional protection).
If you have trick to mitigate ultraviolet weathering (besides paint), I'd love to hear it.
I look forward to incorporating a couple of your strategies the next time I refinish my parents' picnic table (who knows, maybe I'll even film it).
...and I really like the mpg/gasoline analogy. 👏
Feel free to comment on my videos any time, my friend.
What would be the best for a cedar deck?
You certainly COULD choose a Cabot Australian Timber Oil, but cedar is so darn pretty!!
Keep your selection light on the tint and transparent or semi-transparent.
If I had a brand new cedar deck, I would lean towards the boiled linseed/mineral spirits/paraffin wax route.
Good comment, my friend 🙏