I bought my first 18 late last summer. An FD12. I have only had it out a couple of times, and finally got all the bugs out of it. I love it, pushes my 14 foot Blue Finn 19 to 21 mph. I just purchased another one, FD11, the day after Thanksgiving, not as nice looking, but the compression is actully 10psi higher, 130/130,so I'm hoping it will be a strong motor. I love it. What a fun hobby.
The 18s are my favorite. I have two FD-12s now. One is pretty rough looking and I revived it with parts from what I had on the shelf. I'll run that one on the lake next season. I saw you latest video of you FD-12 and it sounds great. It sounds like it is dialed in nicely now. This hobby is a lot of fun. From the find, to the fix up, to the hearing it run, to the getting it on the boat on the water and taking it for a ride. All lots of fun. I also like to build one out of a pile of parts now and then just to see what kind of Frankenstein-fit-together I can build as a runner. Nice original survivors are what I really like to collect, but the build-ups are often the ones I run regularly. Thanks for watching!
I'm glad I was able to save another 18 too. It was a lot of work and parts, but im glad to have it running now. It may get cabin duty next summer. We'll see. I have been running my '56 Fastwin 15 up.there for 3 years. It was also stuck and filthy dirty when I got it. I'd really like to have an 18 that I wanted to leave up there though. This one may be it, or I may end up liking it too much and keeping it at home. We'll have to see. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. This one had a lot wrong with it, but I love the 18s and thought it was well worth saving. This one may take over summer cabin duty this year. It also may spend some time on my Aerocraft. I'll have to decide next season. I like the '73 graphics too. I may do cosmetics on this one if I like how it behaves on the lake. Thanks for watching!
That's what I thought too. Of course it has a lot more than that in parts into it now plus quite a few hours of work. It seems like a good strong runner now though. We'll see how she performs next season on open water. Thanks for watching!
When you pay that for the motor, to me anyway, it doesn’t feel so bad to put a little money into it. No more boating here in Maine now, winter is here. Have a great week.
@@jeffreysmall5505 Right! I totally agree. With a 25 dollar upfront investment, I don't mind at all putting some time and parts into it. Thank you. You stay safe as well and thanks for watching!
Thank you. Unfortunately it is highly unlikely that I will be able to get thus motor on the lake before it freezes. Unless we have open water over the week of Christmas. If so, then I might get a chance. I'm really looking forward to a lake ride with this one too on both this boat and my Aerocraft. I'm really happy with how this one turned out. I never expected it to end up a runner when I bought it. Thanks for watching!
This one was kind of a long shot to save. It was really rough looking inside and out when I bought it. I was quite surprised it freed up amd cleaned up as well as it did. This one actually should turn out to be a nice regular runner. I'm very much looking forward to getting this one on the lake this season. Thanks for watching!
Yes, it seems to have turned out pretty healthy. It looked terrible when I brought it home. I really want tonget this one on the lake. Too bad the weather is going to be cold for 5 more months. Thanks for watching!
I got a 7.5hp Elgin branded Fishing Scott for the same price from the same guy. That one is pretty complete, but it looks kinda rough. I'll probably get that one going though. I have always wanted a running one of those. Thanks for watching!
Always loved the 73 Evinrude graphics....Reminds me of the James Bond movie where they were jumping the Evinrude powered Glastrons over the 73 Chevys which I love also. I hate the low tension stuff also...
I really like the '73 graphics also. Of this style cowl, it is probably my favorite. I don't like that low-tension ignition at all. This one was nice and tight still and I'm sure I could have tuned it up to be a good runner. I'm much happier knowing that it is now a universal magneto now. I dont know what it is about the newer style carburetors on these later model 18s and 25s. They sure seem more finicky than the earlier ones. These later 18s seem to not like to idle as much as the earlier ones either. My '67s both will idle along at a little of nothing RPM, then take off like a scalded cat when you twist the throttle open. This one seems to kind of want to load up whe it idles very long. If you twist the throttle open then, it takes off kinda slow and blows put a smoke screen until.it picks up and goes. It seems like a.a really strong performer though. I can't wait to get out for a lake ride with it. I think.i need to paint the blue part of the cover because it is so badly faded. The rest cleaned up pretty nicely. Thanks for watching, Don!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I think idle went down hill when they got rid of the overboard drain... That recirc system seems to flood one cylinder and leave the other one lean...I don't think it is the fault of the carburetor, but it would be cool to try an old carb on one of these models one day...
@@fleetwin1 I had always assumed it was the recirculation system for the same reason. It may still be that. I may need to run this motor more to see if that tendency goes away any. While I was tank testing this one I unhooked the recirculation line from the upper bypass cover and plugged off the hose barb while letting the line from the manifold just hang loose. Doing that made no difference in how it behaved. I may have to do a second decarb treatment on this motor too. The cylinder head was really carboned up. I have to check again, but I think the older style carburetor will not fit on this motor. I believe this one shares a mounting flange with the 25hp 22 c.i. which is quite large. I'm not a real big fan of those little red urethane slow speed packing inserts either.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Yeah, the older carb probably won't bolt up right I guess. Maybe the recirc system isn't working, but they all seem to have this same characteristic to some degree. Dial in the needle valve to lean/smooth it out, spits lean, so you have to leave it rich..Loads up, fouls plugs. This recirc system was not well thought out for sure. The key to success with these things is getting them to run as hot as possible, I've seen guys reroute some of the recirc fluids back to a nipple in the carb, like the nipple on the newer carbs with the primer nipple. It just seems that the two cylinders are unbalance at idle, and there is no way to get it right with one carb.... Some are better than others, and I think that one is probably bad cuz it was one of the first years that deleted the overboard drain... The ignition cam seems to have a flat spot in it also, which makes them stutter and four stroke during acceleration... This thing would make a good engineering project for you buddy...
One more thought...Perhaps the recirc hose running from the lower bearing to the upper bearing is screwed up causing puddling in the lower cylinder. Perhaps a passage wasn't drilled properly or the check valve in the bottom isn't working/plugged...You can try to check it out with one of those monoject plastic syringes...You should be able to draw fluid out from the bottom nipple (use a short clear hose and the syringe on the nipple)...But, there should be some resistance trying tp pump fluid back down into the bearing. You shold be able to pass fluid through the upper nipple in either direction. You could always run the engine with a clear fuel resistant hose instead of the black hose, maybe you will see something...Fluid should slowly pump up the hose I guess and not pulsate in both directions.... This could be an interesting project...Would love to figure out an engineering fix for these engines
Well my friend ya pulled another rabbit out of you hat ! 👍. I have a 25 and a 20 and a 18 long shaft and think I might make it a short and make either the 25 or 20 a long shaft ! Nice to know the older mag plates and coils work on those low tension motors , saves me a few bucks for sure ! Lol. I do have 3 complete sets of ignition parts for low tension motors I purchased at Constantine last summer !
Yup, only downside is I still need to find another exhaust housing for my '72 Johnson 25. I was not happy when I broke the screw hole for the access door for the shift coupler on that motor. I don't have a 20" transom boat, so long shaft motors don't do me much good, at least at this time. With the choke solenoid from this motor and my starter amd bracket I have been saving for a project, I could convert one of my 25s to electric start. Have to think about that. I don't like that low-tension magneto. I'm happy to know for sure they can be retrofitted to the good old dependable universal magneto. 👍
No argument there. I could really use several acres of pond. Gotta make the puddle work though. This should be a decent motor. I'm looking forward to really running it this season. Thanks for watching!
That looks like a good runner. What did you do to free it up? What was the condition of the bottom cylinder? Sounds like the compression must be good. I'm with you on the magnetos. Nice runner for $25
It seems to be a fairly spunky one. To free it up I first cleaned out everything I could from both cylinders. The bottom piston was near the top of stroke and the top one had both ports open. The bottom cylinder was in surprisingly good condition considering it was packed with nuts and nesting debris. Once all that was out what was visible of the cylinder wal looked OK. The top cylinder had some carbon in it an a few small spots of light surface rust. Most if that came out with some scrubbing with an oily rag. I then tilted the motor up on the stand and sprayed Kroil around the outsides of the pistons amd let it soak for an hour or so. Once it had soaked for an hour I used a large wooden dowel and a 24oz. hammer and tapped on the piston domes alternately about 6 or 7 times. I started to notice a very slight movement in the crankshaft so I stopped tapping. I then put the flywheel nut on the crankshaft and put a 1/2" ratchet on it. I was able to give it a firm pull and get it to move. Once the bottom piston was at the bottom of stroke I worked on cleaning the bottom cylinder. It was surprisingly clean, but had been covered mostly by the piston. Other than a light surface rust stain, it wiped clean. I cleaned and oiled both several times and continued to turn the engine over and wipe out excess oil utility I was happy with how they looked. The compression tested 95/93 when I put the head back on. After a couple heat cycles, a decarb treatment and a hard run on the boat the compression is up to 115/113 now. Thanks for watching, Greg!
I see some guys running a fuel filter in line about 12-15” from their motor. I realize most small older outboards have a screen right in front of the fuel pump. What do you think about using an in line filter? Got a sweet little 15 Evinrude that’s going on a 14 footer in spring and want it to last at least another 25 years.
Nothing at all wrong with running an inline fuel filter in the fuel line before the motor. Yes, there is a screen in the fuel filter cap which is usually effective enough, but an inline filter ahead of it will not hurt anything. The fule pump will not have any trouble pulling fuel through the filter as long as the fuel fittings seal properly. I have at least some type of fuel filter on all of my motors. Your 15 Evinrude is a nice little motor and is a great fit on a 14 footer. Enjoy and thanks for watching!
Me too. This one seems to be a good strong one. Surprised how well it runs now. You wouldn't believe it if you saw the pictures from 5 days ago. And yes, I will be out of earshot of the neighbor's cows at the lake. LOL. Thanks for watching!
Yessir! This thing was making for some hot laps on the shortened short track. With the water level down this time of year I lose at least 25-30% of my lap distance. My days to run are few and far between during these months. I was very glad to.get this motor done and be able to run it on the boat today. Tomorrow rain and then the Temps drop again. Going to have to drain the big test tank too.😢 Thanks for watching!
The only thing mechanically different between 71 and 73 is the magneto. 1973 was the first year of the low-tension magneto. The 71 still uses the universal magneto (which is better in my opinion). Other than that, it's the same motor. I love these. They're very strong runners and still have good idle quality. The 1957-1967 idle quality is the best as they predate the crankcase recirculation circuit. That hurt idle quality some but did reduce the pollution. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Yes, it seems to be a strong runner. I am curious about the performance comparison between the 9x11 and the 9x10 prop also. I will find out next season and post a video with results. On the pond, I'm sure the performance would be better with the 9x10 since it is all short runs and all about acceleration rather than max speed. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I have a 1966 Evinrude Fastwin equipped with a 9✖️10 and I would like to try a 9✖️11 for a higher top end speed. I’m looking forward to seeing you run this one on the lake come spring. Thanks for your reply!👍
@@northwoodsmanbybobolink336 I have found only a small gain on top end with a 9x11 over a 9x10. The holeshot is not quite as good a d if the boat is loaded very heavy the 9x10 has the edge. On a lightly loaded boat I find the top end RPM a bit high woth the 9x10 and prefer the 9x11 for overall performance.
In your experience, how much compression does a old 2 stroke outboard need to have to run properly and put out enough power to get on plane? It seems like you have really good luck with getting these running strong but I assume you come across a lot of motors with really low compression?
That is a bit of a tricky question. The number varies considerably depending upon the specific outboard. An example would be a 1950s OMC 5.5 hp will often run mid 70's to mid 80's for compression. They run very well at those numbers. One in very fresh condition may top 90psi. They will still run well at mid 60's compression but will start to lack power (as if a 5.5 is not a low power outboard to begin with). One of these 18hp OMCs should have between 110 and 125psi to be good and strong. They are still great runners at anything over 100psi amd still run decent down to about 85psi. They will be low on power for an 18hp at that low of compression, but will still run. Mercury outboards tend to be higher compression engines than OMCs. That is not always true, but is most often the case, especially in comparable size engines. The loop charged engines are more critical of compression to run properly and also tend to have higher compression than cross flow 2-strokes. Loopers tend to idle poorly when they begin to get some wear or damage to the pistons or cylinder walls. Cross flows are typically not as efficient, but are surprisingly tolerant of poor condition. I hope that helps a little. Thanks for watching!
How do you shut this off? I just bought one also fitted with a rope pull, but doesn't have a kill switch. Also, when I pull the cord, the flywheel makes a clang (metal on metal) before it cranks. What's up with that?
If the idle speed.stop is set low enough, it will allow the spark advance to be retarded far enough to kill the engine by turning the speed down low enough. Starting in 1958, 10hp and up OMC outboards had kill switches from the factory, unless it had factory electric start. Electric start motors had a kill circuit in the wiring harness for a remote switch. As for the metal on metal clanging of your flywheel, I don't know what may be causing that. It sounds like something is loose. I would check that out and try to get to the bottom of it. Thanks for watching!
If your motor is a '72, or at least is the powerhead is a '72, you should still have the universal magneto. 1973 was the first year for the low-tension magneto and 1976 was the last year for it. The universal magneto has two coils and both coils are under the flywheel. The high tension leads run directly from the coils under the flywheel to the spark plugs. The low-tension magneto uses a single driver coil under the flywheel with two points sets and condensers. Electrical wires connect to two ignition coils fastened to the side of the cylinder head. The high tension leads are very short from each coil to its respective spark plug. I do not favor the low-tension ignition system for a few reasons. The first being they are very sensitive to points timing. So much so that once the magneto plate starts to wear and get a bit loose, it starts to affect the run quality of the engine. Another reason is that there are just more parts to the system. 3 coils instead of two, and more connectors and wiring under the hood for essentially zero gain in performance. The low-tension system is also notorious for fouling spark plugs for some reason. I'm not certain why but I being the sensitivity to the static timing setting is to blame. The extra parts and connections make them harder to troubleshoot. This system of lasted four years of production from intro to outro so I believe OMC also recognized its shortcomings. Thanks for watching!
Yes, it was listed in Napoleon. The chainsaws and the 4hp and 6hp were not there when I got there. I got this one and a 7 5hp Elgin branded lo-pro Fishing Scott. That was all he had left other than a few gas tanks and a trolling motor.
That to funny I went and picked up the 6 hp and the 4 hp I was going to buy the 18 but the 18 was in rough shape by chance do you have any spare gas tanks laying around that I can purchase from you?
@@Themarcustree That is funny 😄! Yes, this thing was rough to say the least. I never thought it would end up a runner again, especially when I saw the critter nuts in the bottom cylinder. I don't have a lot in they way of good tanks for sale, but I may be able to scrounge up one. The problem is whenever I sell a motor the buyer ends up wanting a tank and line to go with it so I have to keep some tanks around. Are you needing a single line or dual line tank? The two line tanks a almost have to keep because very few people buy those motors without a tank to go with them.
I just need one tank but I'll look around see if I can find some I'm sure there's some around by the way how much you want for the 18hp now?😂 I need the single line fuel tank if you don't want to sell any that's fine I'll just look around. The 6 & the 4 were kind of stuck but thay are good running motors now. If they set any longer they would have been done for.
@@Themarcustree If you don't find a single line tank, let me know. I can find one. I have not decided to sell this 18 yet and it is likely I'll keep it. .I don't sell too many 18s. IF I do sell it, it'll be a whole lot more than 25 bucks. I.habe a lot of parts and la or in it now. If I charged shop rate for what's in it no one would buy it as it would be about $1600 plus parts.
Champion UJ4J is the factory reccomended plig for this motor with the original low-tension magneto. I retrofitted this one with the earlier Universal magneto, so I run Champion J4C plugs in this one. Thanks for watching!
I found the universal magneto retrofit on this powerhead to be quite simple if you have the parts. I used the throttle arm link and throttle cam from the original mag plate and transferred them to the earlier one. I built the early universal magneto plate as I would with any earlier one. I set the points timing the same as normal and put it back together. I retained the low-tension flywheel and points cam. Time will tell if it continues to run, but I believe it will work perfectly. Very hot spark and very easy motor to start. Thanks for watching!
I gave 25 bucks for it. Of course I have a lot more than that in it now plus about 15 hours of labor. I think I did OK though. If you're asking what I would sell it for, i have not decided if I'm keeping or selling this one yet. I'm definitely keeping it at least enough to run it a few times on the lake next season. Thanks for watching!
If your 25hp is in fact a 1971, it would already have the universal magneto ignition woth the high tension wires coming through the armature plate to the plug wires. 1973 was the first year for low tension magnetos and 1976 was the last year for them.
I bought my first 18 late last summer. An FD12. I have only had it out a couple of times, and finally got all the bugs out of it. I love it, pushes my 14 foot Blue Finn 19 to 21 mph. I just purchased another one, FD11, the day after Thanksgiving, not as nice looking, but the compression is actully 10psi higher, 130/130,so I'm hoping it will be a strong motor. I love it. What a fun hobby.
The 18s are my favorite. I have two FD-12s now. One is pretty rough looking and I revived it with parts from what I had on the shelf. I'll run that one on the lake next season. I saw you latest video of you FD-12 and it sounds great. It sounds like it is dialed in nicely now. This hobby is a lot of fun. From the find, to the fix up, to the hearing it run, to the getting it on the boat on the water and taking it for a ride. All lots of fun. I also like to build one out of a pile of parts now and then just to see what kind of Frankenstein-fit-together I can build as a runner. Nice original survivors are what I really like to collect, but the build-ups are often the ones I run regularly. Thanks for watching!
Glad you got her running! I saw that for sale and my buddy contemplated buying it before we noped out. Glad it's in good hands.
I'm glad I was able to save another 18 too. It was a lot of work and parts, but im glad to have it running now. It may get cabin duty next summer. We'll see. I have been running my '56 Fastwin 15 up.there for 3 years. It was also stuck and filthy dirty when I got it. I'd really like to have an 18 that I wanted to leave up there though. This one may be it, or I may end up liking it too much and keeping it at home. We'll have to see. Thanks for watching!
Nice Job! Those 18's are bulletproof, and I really like the 73' decals. Stay safe.
Thank you. This one had a lot wrong with it, but I love the 18s and thought it was well worth saving. This one may take over summer cabin duty this year. It also may spend some time on my Aerocraft. I'll have to decide next season. I like the '73 graphics too. I may do cosmetics on this one if I like how it behaves on the lake. Thanks for watching!
Not bad for a $25 motor. Keep up the nice work and stay healthy.
That's what I thought too. Of course it has a lot more than that in parts into it now plus quite a few hours of work. It seems like a good strong runner now though. We'll see how she performs next season on open water. Thanks for watching!
When you pay that for the motor, to me anyway, it doesn’t feel so bad to put a little money into it. No more boating here in Maine now, winter is here. Have a great week.
@@jeffreysmall5505 Right! I totally agree. With a 25 dollar upfront investment, I don't mind at all putting some time and parts into it. Thank you. You stay safe as well and thanks for watching!
Great video. Please get that on a lake before it’s too cold!! I can’t wait to see this perform. I need a longer ride along!
Thank you. Unfortunately it is highly unlikely that I will be able to get thus motor on the lake before it freezes. Unless we have open water over the week of Christmas. If so, then I might get a chance. I'm really looking forward to a lake ride with this one too on both this boat and my Aerocraft. I'm really happy with how this one turned out. I never expected it to end up a runner when I bought it. Thanks for watching!
Another good save! Sounds great!
This one was kind of a long shot to save. It was really rough looking inside and out when I bought it. I was quite surprised it freed up amd cleaned up as well as it did. This one actually should turn out to be a nice regular runner. I'm very much looking forward to getting this one on the lake this season. Thanks for watching!
Very good sounding motor! Definitely has some pep!
Yes, it seems to have turned out pretty healthy. It looked terrible when I brought it home. I really want tonget this one on the lake. Too bad the weather is going to be cold for 5 more months. Thanks for watching!
Saw this along with a 4hp and 6hp.I have a 68 18 with a 71 power head ,and I also have a 1971 25hp both from Carl’s.
I got a 7.5hp Elgin branded Fishing Scott for the same price from the same guy. That one is pretty complete, but it looks kinda rough. I'll probably get that one going though. I have always wanted a running one of those. Thanks for watching!
Always loved the 73 Evinrude graphics....Reminds me of the James Bond movie where they were jumping the Evinrude powered Glastrons over the 73 Chevys which I love also. I hate the low tension stuff also...
I really like the '73 graphics also. Of this style cowl, it is probably my favorite. I don't like that low-tension ignition at all. This one was nice and tight still and I'm sure I could have tuned it up to be a good runner. I'm much happier knowing that it is now a universal magneto now.
I dont know what it is about the newer style carburetors on these later model 18s and 25s. They sure seem more finicky than the earlier ones. These later 18s seem to not like to idle as much as the earlier ones either. My '67s both will idle along at a little of nothing RPM, then take off like a scalded cat when you twist the throttle open. This one seems to kind of want to load up whe it idles very long. If you twist the throttle open then, it takes off kinda slow and blows put a smoke screen until.it picks up and goes. It seems like a.a really strong performer though. I can't wait to get out for a lake ride with it. I think.i need to paint the blue part of the cover because it is so badly faded. The rest cleaned up pretty nicely. Thanks for watching, Don!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I think idle went down hill when they got rid of the overboard drain... That recirc system seems to flood one cylinder and leave the other one lean...I don't think it is the fault of the carburetor, but it would be cool to try an old carb on one of these models one day...
@@fleetwin1 I had always assumed it was the recirculation system for the same reason. It may still be that. I may need to run this motor more to see if that tendency goes away any. While I was tank testing this one I unhooked the recirculation line from the upper bypass cover and plugged off the hose barb while letting the line from the manifold just hang loose. Doing that made no difference in how it behaved. I may have to do a second decarb treatment on this motor too. The cylinder head was really carboned up. I have to check again, but I think the older style carburetor will not fit on this motor. I believe this one shares a mounting flange with the 25hp 22 c.i. which is quite large. I'm not a real big fan of those little red urethane slow speed packing inserts either.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Yeah, the older carb probably won't bolt up right I guess. Maybe the recirc system isn't working, but they all seem to have this same characteristic to some degree. Dial in the needle valve to lean/smooth it out, spits lean, so you have to leave it rich..Loads up, fouls plugs. This recirc system was not well thought out for sure. The key to success with these things is getting them to run as hot as possible, I've seen guys reroute some of the recirc fluids back to a nipple in the carb, like the nipple on the newer carbs with the primer nipple. It just seems that the two cylinders are unbalance at idle, and there is no way to get it right with one carb.... Some are better than others, and I think that one is probably bad cuz it was one of the first years that deleted the overboard drain... The ignition cam seems to have a flat spot in it also, which makes them stutter and four stroke during acceleration... This thing would make a good engineering project for you buddy...
One more thought...Perhaps the recirc hose running from the lower bearing to the upper bearing is screwed up causing puddling in the lower cylinder. Perhaps a passage wasn't drilled properly or the check valve in the bottom isn't working/plugged...You can try to check it out with one of those monoject plastic syringes...You should be able to draw fluid out from the bottom nipple (use a short clear hose and the syringe on the nipple)...But, there should be some resistance trying tp pump fluid back down into the bearing. You shold be able to pass fluid through the upper nipple in either direction. You could always run the engine with a clear fuel resistant hose instead of the black hose, maybe you will see something...Fluid should slowly pump up the hose I guess and not pulsate in both directions.... This could be an interesting project...Would love to figure out an engineering fix for these engines
Well my friend ya pulled another rabbit out of you hat ! 👍. I have a 25 and a 20 and a 18 long shaft and think I might make it a short and make either the 25 or 20 a long shaft ! Nice to know the older mag plates and coils work on those low tension motors , saves me a few bucks for sure ! Lol. I do have 3 complete sets of ignition parts for low tension motors I purchased at Constantine last summer !
Yup, only downside is I still need to find another exhaust housing for my '72 Johnson 25. I was not happy when I broke the screw hole for the access door for the shift coupler on that motor. I don't have a 20" transom boat, so long shaft motors don't do me much good, at least at this time. With the choke solenoid from this motor and my starter amd bracket I have been saving for a project, I could convert one of my 25s to electric start. Have to think about that. I don't like that low-tension magneto. I'm happy to know for sure they can be retrofitted to the good old dependable universal magneto. 👍
You need a bigger pond lol
Another good one saved. 👍
No argument there. I could really use several acres of pond. Gotta make the puddle work though. This should be a decent motor. I'm looking forward to really running it this season. Thanks for watching!
You bet, now that boating season is around corner. Will be waiting for your new videos. Thanks Ben!
@@peteryeung111 I'm looking forward to getting out and making some new videos on the lake. Thanks for watching!
That looks like a good runner. What did you do to free it up? What was the condition of the bottom cylinder? Sounds like the compression must be good. I'm with you on the magnetos. Nice runner for $25
It seems to be a fairly spunky one. To free it up I first cleaned out everything I could from both cylinders. The bottom piston was near the top of stroke and the top one had both ports open. The bottom cylinder was in surprisingly good condition considering it was packed with nuts and nesting debris. Once all that was out what was visible of the cylinder wal looked OK. The top cylinder had some carbon in it an a few small spots of light surface rust. Most if that came out with some scrubbing with an oily rag. I then tilted the motor up on the stand and sprayed Kroil around the outsides of the pistons amd let it soak for an hour or so. Once it had soaked for an hour I used a large wooden dowel and a 24oz. hammer and tapped on the piston domes alternately about 6 or 7 times. I started to notice a very slight movement in the crankshaft so I stopped tapping. I then put the flywheel nut on the crankshaft and put a 1/2" ratchet on it. I was able to give it a firm pull and get it to move. Once the bottom piston was at the bottom of stroke I worked on cleaning the bottom cylinder. It was surprisingly clean, but had been covered mostly by the piston. Other than a light surface rust stain, it wiped clean. I cleaned and oiled both several times and continued to turn the engine over and wipe out excess oil utility I was happy with how they looked. The compression tested 95/93 when I put the head back on. After a couple heat cycles, a decarb treatment and a hard run on the boat the compression is up to 115/113 now. Thanks for watching, Greg!
Nice work as always :)
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I see some guys running a fuel filter in line about 12-15” from their motor. I realize most small older outboards have a screen right in front of the fuel pump. What do you think about using an in line filter? Got a sweet little 15 Evinrude that’s going on a 14 footer in spring and want it to last at least another 25 years.
Nothing at all wrong with running an inline fuel filter in the fuel line before the motor. Yes, there is a screen in the fuel filter cap which is usually effective enough, but an inline filter ahead of it will not hurt anything. The fule pump will not have any trouble pulling fuel through the filter as long as the fuel fittings seal properly. I have at least some type of fuel filter on all of my motors. Your 15 Evinrude is a nice little motor and is a great fit on a 14 footer. Enjoy and thanks for watching!
Looking forward to seeing you do a lake run with this one. Of course, when you do, we won’t be able to hear the cows...😂
Me too. This one seems to be a good strong one. Surprised how well it runs now. You wouldn't believe it if you saw the pictures from 5 days ago. And yes, I will be out of earshot of the neighbor's cows at the lake. LOL. Thanks for watching!
That is so awesome 😍
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Hot laps on the short track again also your switching motors faster than in can put comments in ....lol
Yessir! This thing was making for some hot laps on the shortened short track. With the water level down this time of year I lose at least 25-30% of my lap distance. My days to run are few and far between during these months. I was very glad to.get this motor done and be able to run it on the boat today. Tomorrow rain and then the Temps drop again. Going to have to drain the big test tank too.😢 Thanks for watching!
Picking up a 71 18hp, what do you happen to know what changed on the 73 from 71? Thank you
The only thing mechanically different between 71 and 73 is the magneto. 1973 was the first year of the low-tension magneto. The 71 still uses the universal magneto (which is better in my opinion). Other than that, it's the same motor. I love these. They're very strong runners and still have good idle quality. The 1957-1967 idle quality is the best as they predate the crankcase recirculation circuit. That hurt idle quality some but did reduce the pollution. Thanks for watching!
Motor runs real strong. How well does it do with the 9✖️11 compared to a 9✖️10?
Thank you. Yes, it seems to be a strong runner. I am curious about the performance comparison between the 9x11 and the 9x10 prop also. I will find out next season and post a video with results. On the pond, I'm sure the performance would be better with the 9x10 since it is all short runs and all about acceleration rather than max speed. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I have a 1966 Evinrude Fastwin equipped with a 9✖️10 and I would like to try a 9✖️11 for a higher top end speed. I’m looking forward to seeing you run this one on the lake come spring. Thanks for your reply!👍
@@northwoodsmanbybobolink336 I have found only a small gain on top end with a 9x11 over a 9x10. The holeshot is not quite as good a d if the boat is loaded very heavy the 9x10 has the edge. On a lightly loaded boat I find the top end RPM a bit high woth the 9x10 and prefer the 9x11 for overall performance.
In your experience, how much compression does a old 2 stroke outboard need to have to run properly and put out enough power to get on plane? It seems like you have really good luck with getting these running strong but I assume you come across a lot of motors with really low compression?
That is a bit of a tricky question. The number varies considerably depending upon the specific outboard. An example would be a 1950s OMC 5.5 hp will often run mid 70's to mid 80's for compression. They run very well at those numbers. One in very fresh condition may top 90psi. They will still run well at mid 60's compression but will start to lack power (as if a 5.5 is not a low power outboard to begin with). One of these 18hp OMCs should have between 110 and 125psi to be good and strong. They are still great runners at anything over 100psi amd still run decent down to about 85psi. They will be low on power for an 18hp at that low of compression, but will still run. Mercury outboards tend to be higher compression engines than OMCs. That is not always true, but is most often the case, especially in comparable size engines. The loop charged engines are more critical of compression to run properly and also tend to have higher compression than cross flow 2-strokes. Loopers tend to idle poorly when they begin to get some wear or damage to the pistons or cylinder walls. Cross flows are typically not as efficient, but are surprisingly tolerant of poor condition. I hope that helps a little. Thanks for watching!
How do you shut this off? I just bought one also fitted with a rope pull, but doesn't have a kill switch. Also, when I pull the cord, the flywheel makes a clang (metal on metal) before it cranks. What's up with that?
If the idle speed.stop is set low enough, it will allow the spark advance to be retarded far enough to kill the engine by turning the speed down low enough. Starting in 1958, 10hp and up OMC outboards had kill switches from the factory, unless it had factory electric start. Electric start motors had a kill circuit in the wiring harness for a remote switch.
As for the metal on metal clanging of your flywheel, I don't know what may be causing that. It sounds like something is loose. I would check that out and try to get to the bottom of it. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks for the information, and quick response
Ben I have a 72 18 with the low tension coil. I did have to replace the coil you said you don't like them is there a reason why thanks
If your motor is a '72, or at least is the powerhead is a '72, you should still have the universal magneto. 1973 was the first year for the low-tension magneto and 1976 was the last year for it. The universal magneto has two coils and both coils are under the flywheel. The high tension leads run directly from the coils under the flywheel to the spark plugs. The low-tension magneto uses a single driver coil under the flywheel with two points sets and condensers. Electrical wires connect to two ignition coils fastened to the side of the cylinder head. The high tension leads are very short from each coil to its respective spark plug. I do not favor the low-tension ignition system for a few reasons. The first being they are very sensitive to points timing. So much so that once the magneto plate starts to wear and get a bit loose, it starts to affect the run quality of the engine. Another reason is that there are just more parts to the system. 3 coils instead of two, and more connectors and wiring under the hood for essentially zero gain in performance. The low-tension system is also notorious for fouling spark plugs for some reason. I'm not certain why but I being the sensitivity to the static timing setting is to blame. The extra parts and connections make them harder to troubleshoot. This system of lasted four years of production from intro to outro so I believe OMC also recognized its shortcomings.
Thanks for watching!
Ben just curious did you see those things next to Jackson? the guy was selling a 6hp and a 4hp and selling some chainsaws?
Yes, it was listed in Napoleon. The chainsaws and the 4hp and 6hp were not there when I got there. I got this one and a 7 5hp Elgin branded lo-pro Fishing Scott. That was all he had left other than a few gas tanks and a trolling motor.
That to funny I went and picked up the 6 hp and the 4 hp I was going to buy the 18 but the 18 was in rough shape by chance do you have any spare gas tanks laying around that I can purchase from you?
@@Themarcustree That is funny 😄! Yes, this thing was rough to say the least. I never thought it would end up a runner again, especially when I saw the critter nuts in the bottom cylinder. I don't have a lot in they way of good tanks for sale, but I may be able to scrounge up one. The problem is whenever I sell a motor the buyer ends up wanting a tank and line to go with it so I have to keep some tanks around. Are you needing a single line or dual line tank? The two line tanks a almost have to keep because very few people buy those motors without a tank to go with them.
I just need one tank but I'll look around see if I can find some I'm sure there's some around by the way how much you want for the 18hp now?😂 I need the single line fuel tank if you don't want to sell any that's fine I'll just look around. The 6 & the 4 were kind of stuck but thay are good running motors now. If they set any longer they would have been done for.
@@Themarcustree If you don't find a single line tank, let me know. I can find one. I have not decided to sell this 18 yet and it is likely I'll keep it. .I don't sell too many 18s. IF I do sell it, it'll be a whole lot more than 25 bucks. I.habe a lot of parts and la or in it now. If I charged shop rate for what's in it no one would buy it as it would be about $1600 plus parts.
Is it bad that I run 40:1 in my 9.9 that says 50:1?
No. As long as you are using a TCW-3 water-cooled outboard oil in your premix, you will not have any trouble using 40:1. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks! I do use that.
@@johncarlberg4481 You're welcome and you will not have any trouble doing what you're doing. 👍
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I love the extra 2 stroke aroma it provides as well
Hey buddy what spark plugs are recommended for this motor,thanks
Champion UJ4J is the factory reccomended plig for this motor with the original low-tension magneto. I retrofitted this one with the earlier Universal magneto, so I run Champion J4C plugs in this one. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks a lot,merry Christmas
@@joshuamunoz5036 You're welcome. Merry Christmas to you as well🎄🎄
I have the same motor, is retrofitting to a universal mag difficult?
I found the universal magneto retrofit on this powerhead to be quite simple if you have the parts. I used the throttle arm link and throttle cam from the original mag plate and transferred them to the earlier one. I built the early universal magneto plate as I would with any earlier one. I set the points timing the same as normal and put it back together. I retained the low-tension flywheel and points cam. Time will tell if it continues to run, but I believe it will work perfectly. Very hot spark and very easy motor to start. Thanks for watching!
How much for that motor?
I gave 25 bucks for it. Of course I have a lot more than that in it now plus about 15 hours of labor. I think I did OK though. If you're asking what I would sell it for, i have not decided if I'm keeping or selling this one yet. I'm definitely keeping it at least enough to run it a few times on the lake next season. Thanks for watching!
Is there a chance you could email me im having trouble with a 1971 25hp low tension ignition conversion to high tension I'm in indiana
I can email about this conversion if you like. Please give me your email address and I will try to help you out. Thanks for watching!
If your 25hp is in fact a 1971, it would already have the universal magneto ignition woth the high tension wires coming through the armature plate to the plug wires. 1973 was the first year for low tension magnetos and 1976 was the last year for them.
Sorry yes it is a 1973 I also have a 1976 both are low tension
Jeremyoman219@gmail.com
Thx for the videos