I had one, thst was put in climate control storage with 2,000 Miles. It was purchased out of storage in mint condition for $28,000 (not me) and that owner had the engine "souped up" and dual exhaust. I purchased it in about 1990 with about 6,000 miles if that. I paid $10K. To me it was remarkably slow given the size and work it had done. It was a show piece. White body, white seats, red dash and carpet, Original red convertible top, black hub caps. Exactly as the original Cadillac dealer owner ordered it.
I have exactly the same car - even the colour. It had overheated and the driver side valves weren't sealing. Pulled both heads and got them sorted out but didn't look into the pistons/block etc . Runs OK now - still missing a bit - I cleaned the lifters but maybe should have replaced them. Transmission doesn't always seem to want to transfer power - like it's always in neutral - intermittent. Fluid is high, but if I drop it to the correct level, it seems to make the problem worse. Might be linkages. WIP.. Will follow your progress with great interest!
4 row copper/brass is best. I've gone aluminum with plastic tanks on my '76 Coupe DeVille and it doesn't perform as well despite the larger surface cooling area. It's possible I have other issues going on (clogged passages, tired water pump) but when I swapped in a 4 row copper/brass from Champion after going with the rockauto aluminum radiator not only was my wallet a LOT lighter, my coupe ran properly again (ie no overheating). very interested to see how you progress though, thanks for the video! oh and PS - the last 2-4 minutes are the into of your video again, FYI.
I have a cadi deville 79(7.0L 425cid V8) where I can find the a great radiator? any recomendations or maybe a number or something similar, thanks for the help!.
Great video, and very helpful to me. I just bought the same car with 23K miles. I changed the oil before starting it for the first time this spring. It is super smooth but there is a much, much quieter knock that is timed with the engine revs. It sometimes goes away briefly. Oil is full, no oil light on. Any thoughts?
Could you put an aftermarket EFI system on it? If a carburetor was on it, surely there is an aftermarket FI system that will fit... And there surely is a possibility that true dual exhaust system exists. Guess it comes down to what the owner wants to do with it...
Impossible on a stock (late) 500. The head is 120cc. It would destroy the valves before the head as the piston doesn't travel above the deck to reach the deeper chamber. These are non-interference engines. Now if you put late pistons on a early 76cc head, it's definitely closer.
Need a 76 with RWD 🙌
Good job Chris...... You're right... whatever it is definately wants out......Thought I might get to hear it come out!!!!
I had one, thst was put in climate control storage with 2,000 Miles. It was purchased out of storage in mint condition for $28,000 (not me) and that owner had the engine "souped up" and dual exhaust. I purchased it in about 1990 with about 6,000 miles if that. I paid $10K. To me it was remarkably slow given the size and work it had done. It was a show piece. White body, white seats, red dash and carpet, Original red convertible top, black hub caps. Exactly as the original Cadillac dealer owner ordered it.
I have exactly the same car - even the colour. It had overheated and the driver side valves weren't sealing. Pulled both heads and got them sorted out but didn't look into the pistons/block etc . Runs OK now - still missing a bit - I cleaned the lifters but maybe should have replaced them. Transmission doesn't always seem to want to transfer power - like it's always in neutral - intermittent. Fluid is high, but if I drop it to the correct level, it seems to make the problem worse. Might be linkages. WIP.. Will follow your progress with great interest!
Wow whoever car that is chromed the rim out and added a knock of pieces.... very interesting
4 row copper/brass is best. I've gone aluminum with plastic tanks on my '76 Coupe DeVille and it doesn't perform as well despite the larger surface cooling area. It's possible I have other issues going on (clogged passages, tired water pump) but when I swapped in a 4 row copper/brass from Champion after going with the rockauto aluminum radiator not only was my wallet a LOT lighter, my coupe ran properly again (ie no overheating). very interested to see how you progress though, thanks for the video! oh and PS - the last 2-4 minutes are the into of your video again, FYI.
Thanks for the heads up with the video. My phone does that when when stitching videos for some reason.
Aluminum stronger brass,copper cools better.
The US radiator ones are $$$$ but awesome too. Better than the originals even.
I have a cadi deville 79(7.0L 425cid V8) where I can find the a great radiator? any recomendations or maybe a number or something similar, thanks for the help!.
where did you get this awesome wheels?
The customer doesn't know, they were on it when he got it.
@@atobautomotive thanks for asking.
Great video, and very helpful to me. I just bought the same car with 23K miles. I changed the oil before starting it for the first time this spring. It is super smooth but there is a much, much quieter knock that is timed with the engine revs. It sometimes goes away briefly. Oil is full, no oil light on. Any thoughts?
Glad it helped. You could have a loose or worn accessory, like a water pump.
Could you put an aftermarket EFI system on it? If a carburetor was on it, surely there is an aftermarket FI system that will fit... And there surely is a possibility that true dual exhaust system exists. Guess it comes down to what the owner wants to do with it...
You can, they had an EFI option for the 1975 and 1976 and a carbureted option... My 75' has a carburetor.
The terrible exhaust is the problem. Put a real dual system, it will run much better. Factory exhaust has 2 right angles and is restrictive big time.
I know, the factory exhaust with the log under the floor is a disaster for flow. Why they built it like that, I don't understand.
Just put a 70 motor in it !
Please rebuild mine 🙏
Piston is hitting the head
Impossible on a stock (late) 500. The head is 120cc. It would destroy the valves before the head as the piston doesn't travel above the deck to reach the deeper chamber. These are non-interference engines. Now if you put late pistons on a early 76cc head, it's definitely closer.