Another excellent video, especially the tip about cleaning out the blue lock tight 👍 I managed to torque the bolt by sitting on the bike with my right foot on brake and using my left hand on torque wrench , this stopped any wheel rotation. Motion pro also make circling pliers that makes the job easy and prevents any swearing 👍😀
Great video. You can also toss a rag into the chain as it runs onto the rear sprocket to lock the rear wheel. Works great when you don't have a helper.
Excellent video, you saved my life with my Front Sprocket. I was stuck due to first application OEM of Loctite, your tips works as hell. Thanks a lot for sharing.
Very informative video! I didn't have anyone to press the rear brake for me, so used mole grips to clamp the brake pedal to the stand. Worked perfectly, job done easily with a breaker bar.
Yes, ff I'm on my own I use a large g-clamp (from the rear brake pedal to the stand). Works well, but you do need to be careful to not overtighten it and damage the pedal.
Great vid as always... and, Pro tip, for frequent countershaft sprocket changes..ie from one race to another that calls for tooth count changes for gearing advantages, torque the countershaft bolt to recommended spec and smear some RTV sealer over top of the bolt and sprocket to ensure it won't vibrate loose or back out. Then its a snap to clean/scrape the RTV off and back the bolt out and repeat for the following week. Although I wouldn't use this tip for "set it and forget it" applications.
Thank you for the video. I have a 2017 Husqvarna TE250 and was very glad to see that KTM got rid of the old circlip design in favor of this bolt. The circlip didn't put any pressure on the countershaft sleeve, causing premature seal failure and oil leaks. I do have an unrelated question just out of curiosity, how did you end up in Japan? Do you plan to live there permanently?
I like the tap trick. I didn't do that on my old 450 that had this set up. I was getting leaking around the seal. The dome washer was not putting enough pressure on the sprocket to keep the spacer and o-ring seated at the bottom of the shaft. I still running the older style clip on my 300 so not an issue.
Great videos and very helpful ! Is using a tap safe for the threads? Also, I got an unrelated question, did anyone measure the rear wheel dish / offset on the 2014 - models ? There is nothing in the manual.. Thanks!
I often use a tap to clean out old Loctite from internal threads. You need to be careful that you don't cross thread the tap and also hold it inline with the thread, or you could cause damage. Another method is to use a pick, but it'll take a lot longer.
Looks like the Moly 60 paste is discontinued. I know you mention finding others, however, how important is the 60% moly content? Lots of debate on paste vs grease so a bit confused.
Dan R- I’ve only used Moly 60 and still have a lifetime’s worth left so haven’t given much thought about alternative options. It does work well and I haven’t noticed any wear on the countershaft. My recommendation is to use whatever you can get hold of. It’ll certainly be better than using nothing.
Ever try a 12t counter sprocket for the bike ??? and how truly "drastic" is chain and slide protector wear with a 12t front vs. the OEM 13t ??? For the '17' xcw's (150 and 250), I find the OEM gearing to be too tall and really like the 52t rear sprocket (the pull is great) vs. the OEM 50t....the only problem is it shortens the wheelbase too much for my liking (ultimately affecting ride stability, suspension and steering settings). OEM chains are 116 links, not 118 links as many online retailers suggest. The problem with the 118 link is that it still extends the wheelbase a bit further from OEM even with the 52t rear sprocket added (been there, done that). The only real alternative I have (for close to OEM wheelbase) is to go 12f/48r which is the same ratio as 13f/52r....however, I'd need to cut to a 114 link chain (which is no biggie) for the 12/48 combo. It seems that adding or cutting 2 links of chain work best with a 3 tooth modification on sprockets vs. 2 teeth.
I find 13/50 gearing on my modified 2017 KTM 250 EXC works very well. WIth the Keihin PWK 38mm Air Striker Short plus STIC metering block the engine runs strong and pulls hard. 1st gear is usable for very steep technical sections. 2nd gear works well for regular steep hillclimbs. And 6th gear is good for about 120kph. But I can understand that different bike setups will work better with different gearing, so one gear ratio will not work optimally for all bikes and people...
Did you heat it the first time around? New bolt then too? I want to replace the stock washer with a Dirt Tricks on my 17 250sx and curious about this aspect. Thanks.
Yes, I think use of an impact is a good solution for loosing the bolt (it how I usually do it). But not everyone has one so wanted to show in the video the method using hand tools
Yes, 13/50 is OK on the pavement (top speed on a 250 EXC is about 120kph). Yes, 4th gear wheelies no problem. But I select my gearing for performance off-road. If I was riding mostly on-road I'd use 14/50. Really depends on the type of riding you do and bike. A 500 EXC-F will do 160kph with 13/50 gearing...
thanks, I have 500 exc '17 with stock gearing 14/45 and for now I have plenty of power anywhere, at least more then I can handle :) But 13t was included from factory so thinking about changing, regarding rear I am considering 48 or 50t.
I had a 2013 500 EXC and used 13/50 gearing.That worked great for off-road. Yes, would definitely recommend changing your front sprocket to the 13. and see how you like it.
My recommendation is to use Moly paste. It's specifically designed for this type of application (spline, high pressure), Marine grease would be better than nothing, but won't offer the same level of anti wear under pressure.
Yes, that guides the chain on to the front sprocket. Without it there is a chance the chain could derail. It also protects the engine if the chain broke.
I must ask if you don't feel that there is an annoying gap between the 2nd and 3rd gear? like you wish that the 2nd gear was longer so you won't have to play ping-pong 2-3-2-3-2 haha... If I'll switch the front from 13 to 14 I'll get a longer 2rd but it will reduce the bottom power dramatically for slow technical stuff? (I'm with the stock rear sprocket so I guess it's a 50).
Recently I’ve been running 12/50 gearing and really like it. Gears are closer and I use 2nd gear a lot more now on gnarly stuff. Definitely worth trying if you don’t mind giving up some top speed...
@@TokyoOffroad I'm not seeking for more low-end power (the 300's power is enough for me). I want the 2nd to be longer but not losing a lot of bottom end power.
Yes, I clean and lube my chain after every ride. But riding in mud and wet conditions it’s inevitable that the sprocket and chain will eventually have some corrosion towards the end of life...
I thought i hated the c clips until i changed the sprocket on my 2018, i used para cord and made a loop so I could use my foot to push the brake while i was sitting on the ground
Yes, it's a conical washer (belleville) which acts as a spring. The washer tension will change with bolt torque. To minimize potential issues when changing the sprocket, which may include excessive spline wear, counter shaft oil leaks and bolt failure (either working loose, or snapping), I highly recommend cleaning the countershaft internal threads, use a new bolt and washer, apply Loctite and torque to spec. Using some moly grease like I showed in the video is a good idea to minimize wear between the sprocket and spline teeth.
carlin hicks - The issue which I was trying to highlight is that if you don’t clean the internal threads out the bolt may reach torque before the shoulder of the bolt makes contact with the end of the counter shaft. As such I highly recommend cleaning out any old threadlock from the internal threads (use a thread chaser, or tap very carefully) and use a new bolt.
Up to 2016 2-strokes used a circlip. The main disadvantage I can see is the the circlip allows dirt to easily enter between the sprocket and counter shaft, possibly leading to accelerated wear. The bolt and washer method, although more difficult to change minimizes dirt ingress and holds the sprocket firmly.
Another excellent video, especially the tip about cleaning out the blue lock tight 👍
I managed to torque the bolt by sitting on the bike with my right foot on brake and using my left hand on torque wrench , this stopped any wheel rotation.
Motion pro also make circling pliers that makes the job easy and prevents any swearing 👍😀
excellent step by step instruction! You deserve way more views and subscribers.
Great video. You can also toss a rag into the chain as it runs onto the rear sprocket to lock the rear wheel. Works great when you don't have a helper.
Excellent video, you saved my life with my Front Sprocket.
I was stuck due to first application OEM of Loctite, your tips works as hell.
Thanks a lot for sharing.
Very informative video! I didn't have anyone to press the rear brake for me, so used mole grips to clamp the brake pedal to the stand. Worked perfectly, job done easily with a breaker bar.
Yes, ff I'm on my own I use a large g-clamp (from the rear brake pedal to the stand). Works well, but you do need to be careful to not overtighten it and damage the pedal.
Great vid as always... and, Pro tip, for frequent countershaft sprocket changes..ie from one race to another that calls for tooth count changes for gearing advantages, torque the countershaft bolt to recommended spec and smear some RTV sealer over top of the bolt and sprocket to ensure it won't vibrate loose or back out. Then its a snap to clean/scrape the RTV off and back the bolt out and repeat for the following week. Although I wouldn't use this tip for "set it and forget it" applications.
I find using a block of wood between the frame and sprocket works really well when loosening and tightening the sprocket bolt.
You do the best instructional videos -
You are a beacon of light. Thank you.
Thank you for the video. I have a 2017 Husqvarna TE250 and was very glad to see that KTM got rid of the old circlip design in favor of this bolt. The circlip didn't put any pressure on the countershaft sleeve, causing premature seal failure and oil leaks. I do have an unrelated question just out of curiosity, how did you end up in Japan? Do you plan to live there permanently?
I like the tap trick. I didn't do that on my old 450 that had this set up. I was getting leaking around the seal. The dome washer was not putting enough pressure on the sprocket to keep the spacer and o-ring seated at the bottom of the shaft. I still running the older style clip on my 300 so not an issue.
Muy bien echo y explicado saludos desde España 👌
What size tap are you using?
Great videos and very helpful ! Is using a tap safe for the threads? Also, I got an unrelated question, did anyone measure the rear wheel dish / offset on the 2014 - models ? There is nothing in the manual.. Thanks!
I often use a tap to clean out old Loctite from internal threads. You need to be careful that you don't cross thread the tap and also hold it inline with the thread, or you could cause damage. Another method is to use a pick, but it'll take a lot longer.
Thsnks, look forward to putting it on
VERY GOOD VIDEO THANK YOU!
Rear brake + in gear + wheel against wall + breaker bar = win
Excellent video! What size thread tap are you using? M10, but with which pitch, 1.25m or 1.5mm?
M10x1.5
Tokyo Offroad thank you for the quick reply!
Looks like the Moly 60 paste is discontinued. I know you mention finding others, however, how important is the 60% moly content? Lots of debate on paste vs grease so a bit confused.
Dan R- I’ve only used Moly 60 and still have a lifetime’s worth left so haven’t given much thought about alternative options. It does work well and I haven’t noticed any wear on the countershaft. My recommendation is to use whatever you can get hold of. It’ll certainly be better than using nothing.
Ever try a 12t counter sprocket for the bike ??? and how truly "drastic" is chain and slide protector wear with a 12t front vs. the OEM 13t ???
For the '17' xcw's (150 and 250), I find the OEM gearing to be too tall and really like the 52t rear sprocket (the pull is great) vs. the OEM 50t....the only problem is it shortens the wheelbase too much for my liking (ultimately affecting ride stability, suspension and steering settings). OEM chains are 116 links, not 118 links as many online retailers suggest. The problem with the 118 link is that it still extends the wheelbase a bit further from OEM even with the 52t rear sprocket added (been there, done that). The only real alternative I have (for close to OEM wheelbase) is to go 12f/48r which is the same ratio as 13f/52r....however, I'd need to cut to a 114 link chain (which is no biggie) for the 12/48 combo. It seems that adding or cutting 2 links of chain work best with a 3 tooth modification on sprockets vs. 2 teeth.
I find 13/50 gearing on my modified 2017 KTM 250 EXC works very well. WIth the Keihin PWK 38mm Air Striker Short plus STIC metering block the engine runs strong and pulls hard. 1st gear is usable for very steep technical sections. 2nd gear works well for regular steep hillclimbs. And 6th gear is good for about 120kph. But I can understand that different bike setups will work better with different gearing, so one gear ratio will not work optimally for all bikes and people...
hoptard, a 12T, seriously? Ever think of getting a Trials bike instead? Some of those use a 9T.
Did you heat it the first time around? New bolt then too? I want to replace the stock washer with a Dirt Tricks on my 17 250sx and curious about this aspect. Thanks.
nomdeguerre13 -No, I didn’t use heat. I did use a new bolt though.
sounds great, thanks for the reply!
Made me glad to have a young son ha ha! "Get up there and hold the brake pedal!" Helped balance it too
What so you think is the best sprocket combination to use on 250 exc 2017 for enduro/ hard enduro riding?
12/50 works well for slower technical riding.
What do you think about using an impact wrench to loosen the bolt?
Yes, I think use of an impact is a good solution for loosing the bolt (it how I usually do it). But not everyone has one so wanted to show in the video the method using hand tools
do the 50/13 sprocket combination still works good on the pavement? I understand you can do wheelie on fourth gear?
Yes, 13/50 is OK on the pavement (top speed on a 250 EXC is about 120kph). Yes, 4th gear wheelies no problem. But I select my gearing for performance off-road. If I was riding mostly on-road I'd use 14/50. Really depends on the type of riding you do and bike. A 500 EXC-F will do 160kph with 13/50 gearing...
thanks, I have 500 exc '17 with stock gearing 14/45 and for now I have plenty of power anywhere, at least more then I can handle :) But 13t was included from factory so thinking about changing, regarding rear I am considering 48 or 50t.
I had a 2013 500 EXC and used 13/50 gearing.That worked great for off-road. Yes, would definitely recommend changing your front sprocket to the 13. and see how you like it.
I have one ordered, thanks
Would marine grease be ok to use instead of your moly 60??
My recommendation is to use Moly paste. It's specifically designed for this type of application (spline, high pressure), Marine grease would be better than nothing, but won't offer the same level of anti wear under pressure.
Do u have to have that aluninum piece thats attached to frame
Yes, that guides the chain on to the front sprocket. Without it there is a chance the chain could derail. It also protects the engine if the chain broke.
Thanks buddy 👍
I must ask if you don't feel that there is an annoying gap between the 2nd and 3rd gear? like you wish that the 2nd gear was longer so you won't have to play ping-pong 2-3-2-3-2 haha...
If I'll switch the front from 13 to 14 I'll get a longer 2rd but it will reduce the bottom power dramatically for slow technical stuff? (I'm with the stock rear sprocket so I guess it's a 50).
Recently I’ve been running 12/50 gearing and really like it. Gears are closer and I use 2nd gear a lot more now on gnarly stuff. Definitely worth trying if you don’t mind giving up some top speed...
@@TokyoOffroad I'm not seeking for more low-end power (the 300's power is enough for me). I want the 2nd to be longer but not losing a lot of bottom end power.
As my cousin Freddy used to say, "Good shit, Maynard!" Do you oil that x-ring chain? Old CS had some corrosion.
Yes, I clean and lube my chain after every ride. But riding in mud and wet conditions it’s inevitable that the sprocket and chain will eventually have some corrosion towards the end of life...
Do you apply Miracle Grow to your finger hair?
LOL. If only the hair on my head was as abundant!
any idea what company makes the OEM sprockets for KTM?
KTM Sixdays models have rear sprockets made by Supersprox. I don't know who makes the front sprockets, or rear sprockets on the standard models.
I thought i hated the c clips until i changed the sprocket on my 2018, i used para cord and made a loop so I could use my foot to push the brake while i was sitting on the ground
I find sitting on the bike whilst both wheels are on the ground is best whilst applying the rear brake. Much steadier
Washer will have a bit of give regardless of bolt tension, due to design.
Yes, it's a conical washer (belleville) which acts as a spring. The washer tension will change with bolt torque. To minimize potential issues when changing the sprocket, which may include excessive spline wear, counter shaft oil leaks and bolt failure (either working loose, or snapping), I highly recommend cleaning the countershaft internal threads, use a new bolt and washer, apply Loctite and torque to spec. Using some moly grease like I showed in the video is a good idea to minimize wear between the sprocket and spline teeth.
The bolt has a ''step'' in it for the washer to sit, so even if you over tighten the bolt, the washer will still have less tension than the bolt.
carlin hicks - The issue which I was trying to highlight is that if you don’t clean the internal threads out the bolt may reach torque before the shoulder of the bolt makes contact with the end of the counter shaft. As such I highly recommend cleaning out any old threadlock from the internal threads (use a thread chaser, or tap very carefully) and use a new bolt.
Looks like KTM would put blue loctite since most of us change our gearing or replace for wear anyway.
Great video! Thanks
Was that fairly easy to put on your enduro engineering slave cover?
Yes, very easy. I really like it when it's muddy as the stock guard would easily fill up with mud and debris.
Ta mate.
Does anyone know the torque spec?
60Nm
M10x?? Tap
M10x1.5
@@TokyoOffroad thanks boss. I’m about to change chain and sprockets on my 2020. I appreciate it.
60?
Yes, the torque for the front sprocket screw is 60Nm
@@TokyoOffroad thanks man. Really great Channel.
really dont get why KTM engineers havent put the sprocket on a circlip lock...
Up to 2016 2-strokes used a circlip. The main disadvantage I can see is the the circlip allows dirt to easily enter between the sprocket and counter shaft, possibly leading to accelerated wear. The bolt and washer method, although more difficult to change minimizes dirt ingress and holds the sprocket firmly.