There’s hope for the younger generation, nice job, I really appreciate all the safety gear, boots not sliders like most nowadays, especially while grinding and welding, long sleeves, pants, safety glasses, welding gloves. Keep up the great work, Thanks for showing how to be safe.
I realize this is an older video. However, you never will learn if you never try to do anything. It is a start and the more you weld, the better the welds will get. I applaud your effort.
Great job! I think we all would've loved to see the bike on the trailer after the mods. It's like we invested time with you & showing that it worked out well is like sharing a sense of accomplishment with the the viewer but very impressive job for a first time metal fab job!!
To get those 7” pieces straight you could have clamped two longer pieces of angle to the new piece and the existing (commonly referred to as strongbacks). Wire speed will reduce some of that spatter, and so will the work angle of the mig gun. Pretty good job for it being your first time
There are several tricks for dealing with the splatter from the welder. You can switch to a tig style welder since it doesn’t splatter. Or you could just grind off the splatter. Or you can use a welding anti splatter spray. Spray cooking oil, like Pam, works great too. With both of those products you need to put masking tape over the area you want to weld. Since the sprays will make it hard for the weld to stick. Also you should have tested the fit of the quad before you fully welded everything. It’s a lot easier to break the tacks to move stuff. Or you could have put the quad on the trailer then measure how far out the door is and do at least that amount. Also use a self etching primer when you’re painting bare metal. The self etching primer will stick a lot better then just paint. Audels welding pocket reference is a must read if you intend to stick with welding. It covers a lot and really explains things well and in great detail. Great job overall!!
I have a landscaper trailer that has a 6'x12' deck. After a few years I out grew it, needed another foot of length. I decided to add 2' to allow for any future needs that might crop up. I made two cuts, one in front of the axel and one behind. I added a foot to the front and a foot to the rear. I did that rather than I just adding two feet in one place then have to move the axel to balance it and have to deal with getting it straight. I had to add to the wiring harness but I'd have had to do that no matter how I stretched it. I soldered the wiring splices and put heat shrink tubing on each one. I then slip a pvc pipe over the whole wiring so I shouldn't have any trouble with the wiring. I put new 14' pressure treated boards rather than piece in two ft boards. I did that a four years ago and it tracks well with no tire wear so the axel tracks well. I now have plenty of room for my zero turn and lawn tractor. I also put an electric winch on the front that I had laying around, made a spare tire bracket, added stake pockets to it and more tie down places. It suits my needs just right now.
I have the exact same trailer to haul my quad with my Samurai.What i did was make longer pieces of Flat Bar where the tailgate fits into the spring loaded pins 📌 it did take me a few minutes
Thanks for the video. You did a nice job creating that extra space for the front tires of your ATV for that trailer. One thing that stuck out at me was the tongue of your trailer. With it being an open deck like that with all visibility, I would DEFINITELY REINFORCE that tongue by bringing in identical tubing, or the appropriate sized "C" channel, and I would create two extra strength points on the tongue making it look like an "PEACE" symbol. Other things you could consider for your trailer: 1. Stake pockets on the side and front for tie down points. Do not depend on the expanded metal for that. Too weak. 2. Fuel Can carrier. Several weld on and bolt on versions available to hold one or two Jerry Cans. 3. Expanded Metal Mesh on the sides of the trailer to create an enclosed box. Helps keep things secure and not fall out. 4. Red/Silver Safety Tape on the sides and tail gate of the trailer. 5. Spare tire carrier. 6. Fire Extinguisher bracket w/extinguisher. Kiddie larger models give you the steel mounting bracket, perfect to bolt on or weld. 7. Supports under the expanded metal mesh of the deck. That mesh WILL give way after time with weight of the ATV. Tires will cause "RUTS". 8. Hi-Lift Jack, Axe, Sledge Hammer, and Shovel Mounts. If you are using an ATV you will meet MUD or SAND and could use some of these. 9. Storage for tow straps, tie down, etc. Think about use of 50 caliber or 20, 30, and even 40 MM Ammo Cans if a tool box cannot fit. SECURE YOUR STUFF! *** FORT KNOX COUPLER LOCKS *** Rely on no others. ftknoxlocks.com/ These are just some ideas for you. You did a nice job. Enjoy your project. As for the droplets, you can simply grind them off. I don't weld, so I'll leave the welding tips to those who know. Just some ideas. Good to see your enthusiasm. Enjoy! Levi
Somehow you really should have tackled the rear of the trailer. By extending the front of the trailer you shortened the tongue length. Causing more of a chance of jackknifing or during sharp turns breaking a tail light or denting your vehicle. Kudos for tackling a job with no experience. It's always good to see a young generation tackling new jobs that they know nothing about that's how you learn take it from an old guy when you tackle something bigger than you you can only get better. Also by shortening the time span you start disturbing the tow ratio of the vehicle length and the trailer. Remember that the axle is 40% distance from the front of the trailer when shortening the time and lengthening the bed you change that distance and ratio therefore you could get road walk or bouncing so just be careful and think before you jump into something like this ask us questions and we will be more than happy to help again thank you for jumping on a job that is tough to begin with but if you had to extend anything it would have been better to extend 7in in the back
Adding to the rear, might result in negative tongue weight, which can cause issues at highway speeds. You can get a longer drawbar for your vehicle, to get more clearance if necessary.
Good job! I have kind of same transporting problem. Buying bigger trailer costs to me too much (over 1000€). Small extension is enough and cheap too. Your job quality is good. Add some net in front if necessary.
spatter or bb(s) you can decrease wire speed or increase voltage. make sure materials clean, which yours looked clean in video,, invest in shielding gas, and spray with anti spatter, as old as the video is youve probably mastered this .. but good work!
I did the same thing in 2020 for my dirt bike but only thing I did different is cut the corners off cause when you turn left or right hard it might hit your car now without corners you can turn a tad bit more without touching
If you use gas instead of flux core will reduce the amount of spatter but usually you can knock most of it off with a pice of scrap steel or a wire wheel on a grinder.
If you are going to weld in doors you could switch to solid core wire with a shielding gas of 75-25 co2 and argon mix and have cleaner welds and less spatter ,but that's a added cost ! But it think it's worth it.
Before getting into the bad habit of using a grinder without the gaurd, I suggest you check out videos on how dangerous a grinder can be. The videos will convince you more readily compared to me or others repeating the words about safety.
sometimes it is impossible to get to places with the guard on. check out grind hard plumbing co… dude has been doing it forever and still has all his fingers! have to just trust yourself
I have a 4x8 and my 23 rancher did fit perfectly fine but now that I got wider wheels and tires it’s a little too tight to I am looking at widening the trailer or I am gonna sell it and buy a 5x8
Should of preped the material. Like all that paint were u made the cuts. Ever heard of porosity. And yes cleaning the new stock you added and removing that paint were you plab too weld will reduse your splatter alot. And help make an actual strong weld
You could also bolted a 2X of any kind to the mesh floor to raise the front of your quad over the front rail. Just tie it down as you normally would. Then if you need the trailer for something else it's easy to remove the 2X.
On the front bar you shouldn't have cut the down center piece off because you could have just welded it back to the tounge. You dont want to run your bare finger over metal you've just cut either. Once those metal shavings get into your fingers you'll understand why. Other than that you did a great job. Makes me happy to see young guys like yourself fixing stuff on your own and doing a good job of it 🙂
One thing I started to use was gel flux. Don’t know who makes it, but you dip the nozzle into it, and it costs the nozzle with flux, which should help. Check the gage of the wire in your wire feed. I think you could go with a gage larger and that may help. There is a video (can’t post links in comments…grrr) on YT that upgrades Harbor Freight and other cheap welders, and that is one thing I remember. I think that is what he said helps with the spatter.
@11:24 you asked about the weld splash. There is some spray that you can spray down before you weld that will help with the splash not sticking and it is "easier" to clean up. I will be honest that I havent welded in years and cant remember much but i think it also can be fixed within the settings you have in the machine or the type of wire you are using.
The welding splatter I think is caused be either the wrong amperage or the speed that you moved, or the flux core wire, not sure. I have a Lincoln 110 volt Mig wilder. I used flux cored wire at first but changed to gas because the flux cored wire splattered just like yours did. In my experience, the argon co2 gas is a much cleaner way to weld. The biggest problem with that is if you're welding outside, any breeze will blow the gas away. You'll know immediately because it'll start spitting and sputtering and you'll have no penetration at all. I guess it's all in where you're going to be welding most of the time, inside or outside.
Hello, what kind of welder is that? And for the pros out there, would that be considered structurally sound? For strapping motorcycles and such down with no worries?
I used my Buddys Hobart flux core I couldn't make heads or tails out of it. never used flux core before then. ive always used miller Lincoln gas ....... I was an HT in the navy..
That looks like some Home Depot steel. I’m sure you figured this out now but it’s way cheaper to go to a steel supplier. Those box stores are ridiculous with their material prices
Flux is made for outside windy days if u are using gas ur speed is high on ur welder or your not using gas on a gas welder that's the reason why you left splatter
Oh I forgot to mention in order to remedy or mitigate the splatter of welding BB's if you want to call him all you have to do is spray the metal with cooking oil likes like Pam or some cheap alternative baking spray and and that will eliminate those babies or they will scrape off just with a putty knife after you spray it and before you weld it good luck in your future endeavors Lord bless you
Seem pretty knowledgeable.. I'm a fabricator and to me it sounds like you know what your doing deep down. If not. Kudos. F that Flux though. I tig stainless. Those gloves though....... 🤷♂️ Try anti spatter spray. To your question.
Thanks man! That really was my first welding project ever… have improved a lot since then with a little practice. My one welder friend made fun of my gloves too lol. Ill have to look into that spray, thanks for the tip!
Brother, please, please. The next time you Cut , grind , or Weld, MOVE THOSE GAS CONTAINERS FAR AWAY FROM ANY SPARKS. THAT A BOMB WAITING TO GO OFF.!!!
Semi fail - the top "frame" of the trailer is actually part of the structural supporting frame. It works in conjunction with the angle deck frame. Cutting it apart like done in the video ruined the structural integrity of the trailer to a certain extent.
@@wrenchandrip I would add another 6" piece underneath it for support on side railing that was added . going to see some flexing and cracks in time. trim it so you won't see it and I added cross supports on floor and 2 full width supports to help w. Wire floor sag! Mine was 8 ft length and wide body.
It was to dirty to start with you should of cleaned it with a grinder before even thinking about welding on it. And wire brush the shit out of it after every pass.
I found a electrode welding machine. I try but I was making holes in the metal or my finished work was terrible. Is this Flux welding method much easier?
I havent had much experience with electrode welding, but i do know its usually for heavier material. flux core welding is almost like using a hot glue gun, its about as easy as welding can get in my opinion (especially for thinner metal)
There’s hope for the younger generation, nice job, I really appreciate all the safety gear, boots not sliders like most nowadays, especially while grinding and welding, long sleeves, pants, safety glasses, welding gloves. Keep up the great work, Thanks for showing how to be safe.
Thank you!
I realize this is an older video. However, you never will learn if you never try to do anything. It is a start and the more you weld, the better the welds will get. I applaud your effort.
Thank you!
Retired Nuclear Submarine Ship yard Wlder,,,,,,,,nice job,,,,,,Your on your way to be a pro........You have heart..
Thanks, I appreciate that!
You did a good job. Most kids wouldn’t even try or know where to start
Thanks! I was a little nervous at the start, but now ill take on anything
Great job! I think we all would've loved to see the bike on the trailer after the mods. It's like we invested time with you & showing that it worked out well is like sharing a sense of accomplishment with the the viewer but very impressive job for a first time metal fab job!!
Thanks! I do have a video out showing the quad on the trailer. Check out my channel it is on there!!
To get those 7” pieces straight you could have clamped two longer pieces of angle to the new piece and the existing (commonly referred to as strongbacks). Wire speed will reduce some of that spatter, and so will the work angle of the mig gun. Pretty good job for it being your first time
Thanks, thats a great idea
There are several tricks for dealing with the splatter from the welder. You can switch to a tig style welder since it doesn’t splatter. Or you could just grind off the splatter. Or you can use a welding anti splatter spray. Spray cooking oil, like Pam, works great too. With both of those products you need to put masking tape over the area you want to weld. Since the sprays will make it hard for the weld to stick.
Also you should have tested the fit of the quad before you fully welded everything. It’s a lot easier to break the tacks to move stuff. Or you could have put the quad on the trailer then measure how far out the door is and do at least that amount.
Also use a self etching primer when you’re painting bare metal. The self etching primer will stick a lot better then just paint.
Audels welding pocket reference is a must read if you intend to stick with welding. It covers a lot and really explains things well and in great detail.
Great job overall!!
Thanks! I did test fit the quad before I started and measured how much i needed to add for the gate to close
Good job !! You have a future in the metal trades !
Thanks!
Shucks! I was looking forward to a pic of the quad parked on your trailer.
That would have been neat!
Yeah I blew it by not having a picture. There is another video on my channel of the trailer all hooked up to my car and loaded though!
Good job young man.
Thank you!
Good job. I couldn’t help freaking out about the gas cans in the background. Then I thought “ to obvious probably full of
Full of water of course… not gas…. definitely not gas…….
@@wrenchandrip though so, but I have seen some crazy things people have done.
Looks great. I’m going to do the same thing to my trailer. Thanks!
awesome man, good luck!
I have a landscaper trailer that has a 6'x12' deck. After a few years I out grew it, needed another foot of length. I decided to add 2' to allow for any future needs that might crop up. I made two cuts, one in front of the axel and one behind. I added a foot to the front and a foot to the rear. I did that rather than I just adding two feet in one place then have to move the axel to balance it and have to deal with getting it straight. I had to add to the wiring harness but I'd have had to do that no matter how I stretched it. I soldered the wiring splices and put heat shrink tubing on each one. I then slip a pvc pipe over the whole wiring so I shouldn't have any trouble with the wiring. I put new 14' pressure treated boards rather than piece in two ft boards. I did that a four years ago and it tracks well with no tire wear so the axel tracks well. I now have plenty of room for my zero turn and lawn tractor. I also put an electric winch on the front that I had laying around, made a spare tire bracket, added stake pockets to it and more tie down places. It suits my needs just right now.
Awesome!
I plan on doing the same with my 5x8 Carry-On trailer. I want to extend it by two feet.
Overall, by learning, you did a great job and put yourself out there! Great effort!
Thank you!
I have the exact same trailer to haul my quad with my Samurai.What i did was make longer pieces of Flat Bar where the tailgate fits into the spring loaded pins 📌 it did take me a few minutes
I considered doing the same before I settled on this idea!
Sure hope in the future you move those GAS CANS. Only a spark and kaboom!!!!
Explosions are cool. I like explosions
Nice work
Really good in fact
Thanks!
The only thing bad is when you are turning watch out don't hit your bumper.
i did check that before i extended it. it can still go full lock, and angle almost 90 degrees before it hits
Thanks for the video. You did a nice job creating that extra space for the front tires of your ATV for that trailer. One thing that stuck out at me was the tongue of your trailer. With it being an open deck like that with all visibility, I would DEFINITELY REINFORCE that tongue by bringing in identical tubing, or the appropriate sized "C" channel, and I would create two extra strength points on the tongue making it look like an "PEACE" symbol.
Other things you could consider for your trailer:
1. Stake pockets on the side and front for tie down points. Do not depend on the expanded metal for that. Too weak.
2. Fuel Can carrier. Several weld on and bolt on versions available to hold one or two Jerry Cans.
3. Expanded Metal Mesh on the sides of the trailer to create an enclosed box. Helps keep things secure and not fall out.
4. Red/Silver Safety Tape on the sides and tail gate of the trailer.
5. Spare tire carrier.
6. Fire Extinguisher bracket w/extinguisher. Kiddie larger models give you the steel mounting bracket, perfect to bolt on or weld.
7. Supports under the expanded metal mesh of the deck. That mesh WILL give way after time with weight of the ATV. Tires will cause "RUTS".
8. Hi-Lift Jack, Axe, Sledge Hammer, and Shovel Mounts. If you are using an ATV you will meet MUD or SAND and could use some of these.
9. Storage for tow straps, tie down, etc. Think about use of 50 caliber or 20, 30, and even 40 MM Ammo Cans if a tool box cannot fit.
SECURE YOUR STUFF! *** FORT KNOX COUPLER LOCKS *** Rely on no others. ftknoxlocks.com/
These are just some ideas for you. You did a nice job. Enjoy your project. As for the droplets, you can simply grind them off. I don't weld, so I'll leave the welding tips to those who know.
Just some ideas. Good to see your enthusiasm. Enjoy!
Levi
Thanks!
Not bad for a first time welding. Flux core splatter will do that. They make a anti splatter spray . Lincoln makes good flux core wire .
Thanks for the tips!
Very nice. It looks great.
Thanks!
Nice job for a rookie looks good.
Thanks!
Somehow you really should have tackled the rear of the trailer. By extending the front of the trailer you shortened the tongue length. Causing more of a chance of jackknifing or during sharp turns breaking a tail light or denting your vehicle. Kudos for tackling a job with no experience. It's always good to see a young generation tackling new jobs that they know nothing about that's how you learn take it from an old guy when you tackle something bigger than you you can only get better. Also by shortening the time span you start disturbing the tow ratio of the vehicle length and the trailer. Remember that the axle is 40% distance from the front of the trailer when shortening the time and lengthening the bed you change that distance and ratio therefore you could get road walk or bouncing so just be careful and think before you jump into something like this ask us questions and we will be more than happy to help again thank you for jumping on a job that is tough to begin with but if you had to extend anything it would have been better to extend 7in in the back
Thank you for all the tips!
^ this guy gets it
@@wrenchandrip not to mention you may have somewhat compromised the structural strength of the trailer.
Adding to the rear, might result in negative tongue weight, which can cause issues at highway speeds. You can get a longer drawbar for your vehicle, to get more clearance if necessary.
Poor information.
Great Job Dude!
Thanks!
Keep going kid you will get better I like your 1 optimistic view.
Thanks!
Great job man
Thanks!
Nice job
Flux core harbor freight MiG welder I love it. I have the small titanium 110v welder and I love it. Works great!
I have heard Harby welders are pretty good. Might have to get one someday
What size wire
@@venomous61 .03
@@venomous61 you can also use .035 as well
Good job brother 👏🏻
Thank you!
Good job! I have kind of same transporting problem. Buying bigger trailer costs to me too much (over 1000€). Small extension is enough and cheap too. Your job quality is good. Add some net in front if necessary.
Thank you!
spatter or bb(s) you can decrease wire speed or increase voltage. make sure materials clean, which yours looked clean in video,, invest in shielding gas, and spray with anti spatter, as old as the video is youve probably mastered this .. but good work!
Thanks!
Dang I wanted to see you try and put the 4 wheeler on it
Yeah I probably should have. Youll be happy to know it fits like a glove though
Good video, my only suggestion is move the gas cans and other flammable materials out of the area.
Probably a good idea
I was going to say the same thing.
Very nice
Thanks!
You should try flap disks on your angle grinder. They work faster than a cutting disk or grinding disk in smoothing out materials.
I go back and forth, I do like the flap disks but find it harder to grind a very specific area with them
Keep At it young Man. Good Start ! it is 2 years later now I hope you moved up to mixed gas mig.
Still rocking the flux core… but have been working on some big things. Maybe a vid soon!
I did the same thing in 2020 for my dirt bike but only thing I did different is cut the corners off cause when you turn left or right hard it might hit your car now without corners you can turn a tad bit more without touching
Great idea, I made sure I can still turn full lock with the extension, works fine for my setup!
You can get an anti-splatter product check on your nearest welding supply. 👍🏼
Will do, thanks!
If you use gas instead of flux core will reduce the amount of spatter but usually you can knock most of it off with a pice of scrap steel or a wire wheel on a grinder.
Dude, your welding Is not bad! Use spatter spray to clean of the spatter.you're using a flux core Welder so you will have some spatter.
Thanks! Good to know its not all me that is causing that
Good job but you left us hanging. How'd the atv fit?
It fits perfect! I actually have a later video showing the quad on the trailer, titled “Towing an ATV with a small car”. Check it out!
Looking to do the same good job
Nice job, as far as the weld splatter that is common with flux core welding.
thanks! good to know
@@wrenchandrip no problem
If you are going to weld in doors you could switch to solid core wire with a shielding gas of 75-25 co2 and argon mix and have cleaner welds and less spatter ,but that's a added cost ! But it think it's worth it.
Before getting into the bad habit of using a grinder without the gaurd, I suggest you check out videos on how dangerous a grinder can be. The videos will convince you more readily compared to me or others repeating the words about safety.
sometimes it is impossible to get to places with the guard on. check out grind hard plumbing co… dude has been doing it forever and still has all his fingers! have to just trust yourself
Yeah that’s real smart you doing all that work grind in and out with the gas tanks right there in the entrance of your garage
It makes the work more exciting!
His dad's garage lol
It's a spray that protect the material. Other then that a grinder will be your best friend in getting those splatter marks off... soft pad..
Thanks for the tips!
Looks good.What welder are you using?
Forney Easy Weld FC 140i
good work
Thanks!
I have a 4x8 and my 23 rancher did fit perfectly fine but now that I got wider wheels and tires it’s a little too tight to I am looking at widening the trailer or I am gonna sell it and buy a 5x8
I think widening would be a lot harder than lengthening, but would be a fun project!
@@wrenchandrip I ended up selling that one and bought a new one for the same price I sold mine for so It worked out
Should of preped the material. Like all that paint were u made the cuts. Ever heard of porosity. And yes cleaning the new stock you added and removing that paint were you plab too weld will reduse your splatter alot. And help make an actual strong weld
Thanks!
Kudos kid
Thanks!
Exact size of the angle iron you used?
Main rail is 2 inch i believe, supports/uprights are 1.5 inch
You could also bolted a 2X of any kind to the mesh floor to raise the front of your quad over the front rail. Just tie it down as you normally would. Then if you need the trailer for something else it's easy to remove the 2X.
Not a bad idea
Is that a 4x6 trailer I have a 4x7 and I also have a yamaha grizzly 600 it fits pretty snug ..
Yes it *was* a 4x6
spray on veggie oil make those splatter beads come off very easily if they stick. $3.00 @ walmart
Great idea, thanks!
Lengthen the tung would really help you turning radius. The front corner could do damage to your car
I can still turn full lock with plenty of room to spare with it as is, works perfectly
Another option could have been to ramp from the crossmember over the top rail. Would have given the space and kept the rigidity
Not a bad idea
really great idea!
thanks!
On the front bar you shouldn't have cut the down center piece off because you could have just welded it back to the tounge.
You dont want to run your bare finger over metal you've just cut either. Once those metal shavings get into your fingers you'll understand why.
Other than that you did a great job.
Makes me happy to see young guys like yourself fixing stuff on your own and doing a good job of it 🙂
Thanks! Yes… metal shaving are no fun.
Spray everything you are going to weld with mig spray. The splatter will not stick to the metal.
Great idea, thanks!
One thing I started to use was gel flux. Don’t know who makes it, but you dip the nozzle into it, and it costs the nozzle with flux, which should help.
Check the gage of the wire in your wire feed. I think you could go with a gage larger and that may help. There is a video (can’t post links in comments…grrr) on YT that upgrades Harbor Freight and other cheap welders, and that is one thing I remember. I think that is what he said helps with the spatter.
thanks wade I appreciate the tips!
400 hundred bux i guess that's cheap for some. Your talking about nozzle dip keeps the gun easy to clean. Does nothing for the surface work.
@11:24 you asked about the weld splash. There is some spray that you can spray down before you weld that will help with the splash not sticking and it is "easier" to clean up. I will be honest that I havent welded in years and cant remember much but i think it also can be fixed within the settings you have in the machine or the type of wire you are using.
The welding splatter I think is caused be either the wrong amperage or the speed that you moved, or the flux core wire, not sure. I have a Lincoln 110 volt Mig wilder. I used flux cored wire at first but changed to gas because the flux cored wire splattered just like yours did. In my experience, the argon co2 gas is a much cleaner way to weld. The biggest problem with that is if you're welding outside, any breeze will blow the gas away. You'll know immediately because it'll start spitting and sputtering and you'll have no penetration at all. I guess it's all in where you're going to be welding most of the time, inside or outside.
Thanks for the advice!
Great point about the wind
Hello, what kind of welder is that? And for the pros out there, would that be considered structurally sound? For strapping motorcycles and such down with no worries?
Its a Forney Easy Weld fc-140. I have strapped a bunch of different machines down tight for trips over 5 hours away with no issues. Welds are solid
I have the same welder it works so much better than the harbor freight machines.
I used my Buddys Hobart flux core I couldn't make heads or tails out of it. never used flux core before then. ive always used miller Lincoln gas ....... I was an HT in the navy..
I haven’t used any of the big name brands, but i would imagine you get what you pay for. Would love to have a gas welder one day
thank you for your service🇺🇸
That looks like some Home Depot steel. I’m sure you figured this out now but it’s way cheaper to go to a steel supplier. Those box stores are ridiculous with their material prices
Yes it was, i definitely should go to a steel supplier. Box store selection sucks too
Flux is made for outside windy days if u are using gas ur speed is high on ur welder or your not using gas on a gas welder that's the reason why you left splatter
Oh I forgot to mention in order to remedy or mitigate the splatter of welding BB's if you want to call him all you have to do is spray the metal with cooking oil likes like Pam or some cheap alternative baking spray and and that will eliminate those babies or they will scrape off just with a putty knife after you spray it and before you weld it good luck in your future endeavors Lord bless you
Thank you! God bless
YOU SHOULD HAVE THE [ V ] UP NOT DOWN SO IT WOULD NOT HOLD WATER INSIDE
Thanks!
Reverse the poles. it will fix that splatter. Reverse polarity.
Thanks!
Seem pretty knowledgeable.. I'm a fabricator and to me it sounds like you know what your doing deep down. If not. Kudos. F that Flux though. I tig stainless.
Those gloves though....... 🤷♂️
Try anti spatter spray. To your question.
Thanks man! That really was my first welding project ever… have improved a lot since then with a little practice.
My one welder friend made fun of my gloves too lol. Ill have to look into that spray, thanks for the tip!
@@wrenchandrip no prob! Looked decent! Good job. That spray should help a bit. Just mist it on and letter rip ✌
Nice job. Just be careful backing up, sharp turns could dent your trunk. Re-edit and include a shot of your quad on the trailer behind your Jeep.
I actually have a video out of my setup attached to my car once it was all complete. Check it out on my channel!
Anti spatter spray before welding!
Definitely need to get some of that stuff!
Actually with the forney machine there isnt a lot of spatter like the other machines. Polarity is correct. Helps it a lot.
Good try for a beginner
thanks!
Brother, please, please. The next time you Cut , grind , or Weld, MOVE THOSE GAS CONTAINERS FAR AWAY FROM ANY SPARKS. THAT A BOMB WAITING TO GO OFF.!!!
But I like fireworks!!
The only way to eliminate splatter is to get a mig welder with gas
very true. theres a reason the pros dont use flux core hahahaha
@@wrenchandrip Don't underestimate Flux core. Splatter can be minimized. It's a solid weld. Plenty pros use it.
I would have just strapped the tailgate to the back of the quad.
i did do that for a bit, but i wanted to be able to use it how it was designed to be used. its great to be able to pull on and just shut the gate now
Semi fail - the top "frame" of the trailer is actually part of the structural supporting frame. It works in conjunction with the angle deck frame. Cutting it apart like done in the video ruined the structural integrity of the trailer to a certain extent.
Wouldnt it re-gain the structural integrity when welded back together??
@@wrenchandrip I would add another 6" piece underneath it for support on side railing that was added . going to see some flexing and cracks in time. trim it so you won't see it and I added cross supports on floor and 2 full width supports to help w. Wire floor sag! Mine was 8 ft length and wide body.
Use anti spatter spray
Good tip
It was to dirty to start with you should of cleaned it with a grinder before even thinking about welding on it. And wire brush the shit out of it after every pass.
Good prep is the key to success I hear
You need an a frame
A frames are for pussies
a grinder and paint make me the welder i anit
LOL love it
You might wan't to move them gas cans
gotta risk it for the biscuit my friend
Get your gas can out of the area, way out !!
Anti spatter spray
Thanks!
Reverse your polarity on your welder to get a better weld and less splatter
someones trying to get me killed
It doesn't have a jack either
It does now
All that for 7” 😂I completely understand but that kinda sucks 😂
sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do hahaha
That trailer is junk buy an a frame
Still holding up…
I found a electrode welding machine. I try but I was making holes in the metal or my finished work was terrible.
Is this Flux welding method much easier?
I havent had much experience with electrode welding, but i do know its usually for heavier material. flux core welding is almost like using a hot glue gun, its about as easy as welding can get in my opinion (especially for thinner metal)