Engineers, tighten to 110 ft lbs. loosen 45 degrees then torque to 185...... then put your right foot in then put your right foot out and do the hokey pokey. There's an engineer laughing to himself somewhere right now writing up the latest torque spec!
Excellent video, Could you share your scanner and software that provides you with the information such as the torque specs and stuff. Looking for something a home mechanic can justify without crazy annual update fees or monthly costs
In this video I'm using a Snap-on Verus Edge which is quite expensive. 13k plus 2k for annual subscriptions. Not typically a DIY scanner. In my opinion a good very capable phone based scanner is a Thinkdiag. In my opinion it is the most capable to date. Will do complete network scan of all controllers, read and clear codes, view live data from all controllers as well as 90% of any bidirectional controls required. There is an annual subscription fee but you can just pay for one manufacturer if that's all you need. Even all available manufacturers for one year is only like $150.00. I'll post a link to it on here later. As for the information service I pay monthly to Identifix for access. They don't really support DIY techs but Alldatadiy.com does and it's quite reasonable. Like purchasing a service manual but on line. Definitely recommend them. Check it out. Thanks for watching my videos.
Here's a link the the scanner I'd recommend that works with a smartphone. THINKCAR ThinkDiag OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth, Full Systems Diagnostic Bluetooth Car Code Reader. Car Diagnostic Scanner for Bi-Directional, ECU Coding, 16 Special Functions with EPB, TPMS,SRS,SAS, etc. a.co/d/jliRlMe This is on Amazon.ca so you might want to search Amazon.com if you're in the USA.
I would place a ring of epoxy on the reluctor magnetic ring. Then dielectric grease on the sensor connector. They reuse “LS” torque to yield bolts all the time (Unless running 18 lbs. of boost on a Chinese Turbo) but I would reuse the bolts every time. All bolts stretch and the less expensive new engineers were taught this, so replace or not! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Dude, when telling the public you have to give them the official information correct to the letter of the manufacturers proceeding. What you do when the cameras off, is up to you. You did good, made the right call. I enjoy learning on stuff I have never worked on. At the dealership, you get OEM parts. I am rebuilding a 67 C10 and buckets from a Tahoe i’ve modified and added foam, sewing tan distressed leather, and placing all wires thru the huge grommet these Tahoe’s came with behind the intake. PCM, TAC, BCM all sit vertical at the front of console. 1/2” PVC board is used as you can carefully heat it & bend. Rounded corners with a center 3/8” below the top, covered in leather, but held with magnets. The door switches use class-2 serial data and as a lot of two doors, window, locks are in the center console. Using the BCM allows for exterior, interior lights, horn and passengers switch is the receiver for keyless entry. Content theft power windows for cheap and all easy to service. I am working on a tailgate release with gas strut underneath to control drop. I have access to GM service info, TECH-2 with software to 2020. Ex-co-workers at dealer to update my scan tool card. Bench built 87 era 700R4 last winter w/ all goodies except $600 input drum form Sonnax. Over-sized Superior super hold servo’s, new captured check valves, 5-pinion ACDelco planets, 13 vane pump, 0.500” pressure valve and all the tricks. The truck cost nothing, my son hit black-ice and slid Tahoe into tree sideways, gave that to me. The rest is time & materials. I had one at 13 on farm/school license. Coils rear, AirMaxxx bags from w/no drop. I am 6’3” tall and don’t need it. God bless, stay safe and best of UA-cam luck. (try hash tags to get video on searches) dk, Omaha, Nebraska.
Dude, when telling the public you have to give them the official information correct to the letter of the manufacturers proceeding. What you do when the cameras off, is up to you. You did good, made the right call. I enjoy learning on stuff I have never worked on. At the dealership, you get OEM parts. I am rebuilding a 67 C10 and buckets from a Tahoe i’ve modified and added foam, sewing tan distressed leather, and placing all wires thru the huge grommet these Tahoe’s came with behind the intake. PCM, TAC, BCM all sit vertical at the front of console. 1/2” PVC board is used as you can carefully heat it & bend. Rounded corners with a center 3/8” below the top, covered in leather, but held with magnets. The door switches use class-2 serial data and as a lot of two doors, window, locks are in the center console. Using the BCM allows for exterior, interior lights, horn and passengers switch is the receiver for keyless entry. Content theft power windows for cheap and all easy to service. I am working on a tailgate release with gas strut underneath to control drop. I have access to GM service info, TECH-2 with software to 2020. Ex-co-workers at dealer to update my scan tool card. Bench built 87 era 700R4 last winter w/ all goodies except $600 input drum form Sonnax. Over-sized Superior super hold servo’s, new captured check valves, 5-pinion ACDelco planets, 13 vane pump, 0.500” pressure valve and all the tricks. The truck cost nothing, my son hit black-ice and slid Tahoe into tree sideways, gave that to me. The rest is time & materials. I had one at 13 on farm/school license. Coils rear, AirMaxxx bags from w/no drop. I am 6’3” tall and don’t need it. God bless, stay safe and best of UA-cam luck. (try hash tags to get video on searches) dk, Omaha, Nebraska.
No, I didn’t even have a smart phone until my son sent me this iPhone 6. Just worked on a lot of cars for many moons. Still looking to figure out where the last 45 years went? 7AM - 9PM on flat rate to feed 4 + wife who was a domestic engineer. That job didn’t pay anything! A man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do! Blessings and best of luck.
So are they wanting the hub nut replaced or the rotor retention bolt? GM has never been the smartest with stuff they produce. I’m getting ready to do this same job on my girlfriends Malibu as well, better to be prepared
@@PhillipBailey sad too because all the hub assemblies you get from the parts stores don’t come with new bolts or a new axle nut so your left sourcing those parts. I’ve always just reused those with some loctite or anti seize
Engineers, tighten to 110 ft lbs. loosen 45 degrees then torque to 185...... then put your right foot in then put your right foot out and do the hokey pokey. There's an engineer laughing to himself somewhere right now writing up the latest torque spec!
Mechanical engineers should go to ASE school first then feild experience. Totally agree 👍🏻
Excellent video, Could you share your scanner and software that provides you with the information such as the torque specs and stuff. Looking for something a home mechanic can justify without crazy annual update fees or monthly costs
In this video I'm using a Snap-on Verus Edge which is quite expensive. 13k plus 2k for annual subscriptions. Not typically a DIY scanner. In my opinion a good very capable phone based scanner is a Thinkdiag. In my opinion it is the most capable to date. Will do complete network scan of all controllers, read and clear codes, view live data from all controllers as well as 90% of any bidirectional controls required. There is an annual subscription fee but you can just pay for one manufacturer if that's all you need. Even all available manufacturers for one year is only like $150.00. I'll post a link to it on here later. As for the information service I pay monthly to Identifix for access. They don't really support DIY techs but Alldatadiy.com does and it's quite reasonable. Like purchasing a service manual but on line. Definitely recommend them. Check it out. Thanks for watching my videos.
Here's a link the the scanner I'd recommend that works with a smartphone. THINKCAR ThinkDiag OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth, Full Systems Diagnostic Bluetooth Car Code Reader. Car Diagnostic Scanner for Bi-Directional, ECU Coding, 16 Special Functions with EPB, TPMS,SRS,SAS, etc. a.co/d/jliRlMe
This is on Amazon.ca so you might want to search Amazon.com if you're in the USA.
I would place a ring of epoxy on the reluctor magnetic ring. Then dielectric grease on the sensor connector. They reuse “LS” torque to yield bolts all the time (Unless running 18 lbs. of boost on a Chinese Turbo) but I would reuse the bolts every time. All bolts stretch and the less expensive new engineers were taught this, so replace or not!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
I've been reusing the bolts as well. Just found out replacement and torque to yield is proper because I looked it up for the video. Lol
Dude, when telling the public you have to give them the official information correct to the letter of the manufacturers proceeding. What you do when the cameras off, is up to you. You did good, made the right call. I enjoy learning on stuff I have never worked on. At the dealership, you get OEM parts. I am rebuilding a 67 C10 and buckets from a Tahoe i’ve modified and added foam, sewing tan distressed leather, and placing all wires thru the huge grommet these Tahoe’s came with behind the intake. PCM, TAC, BCM all sit vertical at the front of console. 1/2” PVC board is used as you can carefully heat it & bend. Rounded corners with a center 3/8” below the top, covered in leather, but held with magnets. The door switches use class-2 serial data and as a lot of two doors, window, locks are in the center console. Using the BCM allows for exterior, interior lights, horn and passengers switch is the receiver for keyless entry. Content theft power windows for cheap and all easy to service. I am working on a tailgate release with gas strut underneath to control drop. I have access to GM service info, TECH-2 with software to 2020. Ex-co-workers at dealer to update my scan tool card. Bench built 87 era 700R4 last winter w/ all goodies except $600 input drum form Sonnax. Over-sized Superior super hold servo’s, new captured check valves, 5-pinion ACDelco planets, 13 vane pump, 0.500” pressure valve and all the tricks. The truck cost nothing, my son hit black-ice and slid Tahoe into tree sideways, gave that to me. The rest is time & materials. I had one at 13 on farm/school license. Coils rear, AirMaxxx bags from w/no drop. I am 6’3” tall and don’t need it. God bless, stay safe and best of UA-cam luck. (try hash tags to get video on searches)
dk, Omaha, Nebraska.
Dude, when telling the public you have to give them the official information correct to the letter of the manufacturers proceeding. What you do when the cameras off, is up to you. You did good, made the right call. I enjoy learning on stuff I have never worked on. At the dealership, you get OEM parts. I am rebuilding a 67 C10 and buckets from a Tahoe i’ve modified and added foam, sewing tan distressed leather, and placing all wires thru the huge grommet these Tahoe’s came with behind the intake. PCM, TAC, BCM all sit vertical at the front of console. 1/2” PVC board is used as you can carefully heat it & bend. Rounded corners with a center 3/8” below the top, covered in leather, but held with magnets. The door switches use class-2 serial data and as a lot of two doors, window, locks are in the center console. Using the BCM allows for exterior, interior lights, horn and passengers switch is the receiver for keyless entry. Content theft power windows for cheap and all easy to service. I am working on a tailgate release with gas strut underneath to control drop. I have access to GM service info, TECH-2 with software to 2020. Ex-co-workers at dealer to update my scan tool card. Bench built 87 era 700R4 last winter w/ all goodies except $600 input drum form Sonnax. Over-sized Superior super hold servo’s, new captured check valves, 5-pinion ACDelco planets, 13 vane pump, 0.500” pressure valve and all the tricks. The truck cost nothing, my son hit black-ice and slid Tahoe into tree sideways, gave that to me. The rest is time & materials. I had one at 13 on farm/school license. Coils rear, AirMaxxx bags from w/no drop. I am 6’3” tall and don’t need it. God bless, stay safe and best of UA-cam luck. (try hash tags to get video on searches)
dk, Omaha, Nebraska.
@@deankay4434 appreciate the feedback. Sounds like you know what you're doing. Do you have any videos on here of your build?
No, I didn’t even have a smart phone until my son sent me this iPhone 6. Just worked on a lot of cars for many moons. Still looking to figure out where the last 45 years went? 7AM - 9PM on flat rate to feed 4 + wife who was a domestic engineer. That job didn’t pay anything! A man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do!
Blessings and best of luck.
So are they wanting the hub nut replaced or the rotor retention bolt? GM has never been the smartest with stuff they produce. I’m getting ready to do this same job on my girlfriends Malibu as well, better to be prepared
Yes the three hub bolts and CV axle nut are recommended to be replaced each time.
@@PhillipBailey sad too because all the hub assemblies you get from the parts stores don’t come with new bolts or a new axle nut so your left sourcing those parts. I’ve always just reused those with some loctite or anti seize
@@OperatorASF Agreed. So have I. I just noted it in the service information cause I was looking up the bolt torque...