Video Notes: -Article and SketchUp file for this video: jayscustomcreations.com/2018/01/my-shooting-board-attachments/ -Shooting board video: ua-cam.com/video/gUrfzc4hai0/v-deo.html
Greetings Jay I appreciate the simplicity of your design and the explanations you give. They make sense to me. I attempted making my first shooting board based on the design by Paul Sellers and had moderate success with it. I have used power tools almost exclusively till this winter. I have watched dozens of YT vids on hand tool woodworking over the past six months and built a smallish Nicholas bench using all hand tools. Worked out pretty well. Now I'm working on a Moxon Vice design using pegs and wedges vs. bolts and nuts. It's all fun and keeps my mind busy. Thanks for making the video - especially without a music track!!!! Blessings to you and yours. Handy Andy
Thank you for your tips! Newbie here and my cuts never seem to be straight. I picked up a trim block and a small block plane (all that was available at my tiny store) and have already used it to put 45s on trim pieces. Can't wait to see how much this will help me. As someone says, a good woodworker doesn't not make mistakes, a good woodworker just knows how to clean up or hide them. :)
Jay Great stuff. Your video, with the differing angles on the shooting board has me wondering... Can a shooting board be used as a sharpening system for Chisels and Plane Irons? Possible setup would be with a chisel or plane Iron carriage that would shoot. Sharpening stones held, against the fence, by length for maximum sharpening surface area.
I never understood how a shooting board worked... how do you not plane away he piece of plywood that your work piece is on? Your iron is pressed up against it while you’re sliding the plane... I just don’t get how it’s still there after planning against it.
The iron ('blade') of the plane does not extend all the way to the bottom of the shooting board. This is why it'll never eat the track the plane is sliding against.
I just finished my shooting board the other night and added the 45 attachment, but I was wondering how I might get a perfect cut for boards on the inside of a box. The donkey's ear attachment is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
I love the new video style. I remember your video from a few months ago when you talked about having a habit of wanting to perfect your videos and repeating lines a lot in order to get them right. Sure that style was really clean and informative, but it didn't sound natural. This sounds natural, and I appreciate your commitment to become more laid back with your content. Thank you for all of the work you do in teaching everyone on here.
Nothing to do with a shooting board but what are your thoughts on a DIY Heat Recovery Ventilator for the absolute best air quality in a shop (or home).
Can thinner stock be used for the 'donkey ear' miter attachment? You mentioned 3/4"? Can one use 1/2" stock. Cannot seem to find 3/4" anything around here.
If you use some old dry hardwood, you should be able to go very thin. Remember that you can also glue several thin pieces together to form the thickness you need; this would probably form a very strong and stiff donkey ear.
Miniature dog-holes. I like that. :) If you at some point need to "secure" an attachment, you could always make a nut in the middle of the dog-holes and a short bolt through the attachment (this goes for other things using dog-holes/dowels as well; you'll only need one bolt, which makes for a quick attach/detach operation). The bolt could have a wooden handle attached using epoxy, if desired.
And thank you again. I watched your other clip on building the shooting board with an eye towards needing this attachment. Yes, glueing that small strip for clamping purposes makes perfect sense in my mind. Clearly presented information and application.
Must be fate, I just bought my first bench plane, a SB #5, and was planning on making your shooting board design but was wondering how to do the 45° mitre add-on
My comment was going to request a video of you doing the Sketchup drawing but you already posted. Would love to see one of those again. Great stuff as always Jay!
A lot of metal planes the side is not at 90* to the sole. My Stanley is way out. If not too bad the iron can be lever adjusted. An alternative is to use a wooden plane and true the side to the sole if needed. Also a block of wood with sandpaper works as smoothly as a plane.
Thanks for the details Jay I made one of these a while back from your original idea... I took a similar approach for the flat 45, but have yet to make the other one. great content as always.
Ok. I made one of the donkey ear attachments. It works perfectly for 45° mitered edges for my small boxes. Got any ideas on how to hold a piece of wood at 'any' angle on a shooting board? I need 22.5° for a project I am doing. I have no clue on how to angle the material or angle the plane. If you think of something good, can you let us know? (No table saw)
I don't know about 'any' angle, but maybe you would want to consider making a second shooting board, where you tilt the angle of the plane itself. Then you can use the 45° attachment you have already. For every attachment you make, you'll then get two angles. This might sound tedious, but I think that you could make a shooting-board with an adjustable angle. Using your vise, the vise could tighten the grip over both the end of the shooting board and the special angled block, which your workpiece rest against. The position of the pivot point may be a little tricky to get right, though. You might want to use something thin for just holding it in place, rather than something rock solid, as it's going to be close to the plane-"track"... ;) -So imagine that your shooting board is a board with a rectangle cut out; "U"-shaped. Inside the 'U', you have a large cube of wood. On each side of this cube, you have a couple of wood-boards attached to the shooting board itself. The cube has a snug fit between the sides of the 'U' and thus the two boards extending below the shooting board . The vise will squeeze the two boards up against the cube, holding it all in place. This of course assumes that your vise is wide enough to contain the cube and the two board pieces. If you need more detail on what I mean, I'll try and see if I can make a drawing.
Just made a draft-drawing, in order to explain what I mean. It's certainly not perfect, but I think it could be used. scratch.multitrading.dk/Shooting-Board-for-vise.zip
@@68HC060 Now that is an interesting idea. A free rotating surface that is held by a vise. This solution would never have come to me. I am thinking of a second surface on a standard shooting board secured with hinges. The top surface is tilted up to the desired angle on the hinges (near the hand plane). I have to think about how to make the drawing you sent. Thank you!
You're welcome! Actually the hinge method might not be such a bad idea - I was thinking about a hinge at first myself and some kind of bolt to adjust and secure the angle. The old rule still applies: Simple is good. =) You can get some hinges that use almost no space at the pivot-point. You could probably also make a "Rob Cosman hinge", where you round the hinge side of the board and put a steel-axis through the "center". This will unfortunately make an offset on the pivot-point, but I think that could be worked around. I also thought about making a curved groove in the large circular block, this could hold the block while changing the angle (2 curved grooves would of course be better).
Thinking a bit more about it... If going back to the other idea, where the plane is tilted, then you could use a piano-hinge to tilt the plane. I think this could work; the only problem with this approach, is that the "end-stop" would have to be adjustable (you could use a long sliding dovetail there) or it could end in a 45° angle.
Nice! I had shown your previous video to a friend who is taking a foray into woodworking and was having trouble with doing mitres on his first project, because your shooting board attachment looked ideal - Then today you post this! Great timing! Nice touch with adding some relief to the bottom edge of the hardwood to redirect the clamping forces downwards. I like how you think. I've picked up a whole bunch of tips from your videos that I'd have probably not considered otherwise. Cheers Jay!
Thanks Jay. Love the videos. Can you talk a little bit about the doors / wings that are a relatively recent add-on to the mitre-saw workstation? I hope this is clear - looks like they are there to increase dust collection performance. How are they working? I'd be interested to see a video on the specifics of this modification to your mitre-saw station given the you tube fame this project has generated, I'm sure a lot of viewers would be interested. Thanks and take care.
It's just plywood wings. I've mentioned it in a few videos. Nothing special. Just reduce the air opening where possible. ua-cam.com/video/c5tOIBfA8V8/v-deo.html
You keep on talking about super glue. Is this the same type of super glue used on glass and plastic? Cyanoacrylate? I am used to using wood glue. Never heard of using super glue for wood. Super glue creates a molecular bond so I do not see it being very good for wood. Also super glue normally comes in a tiny tube so would be an expensive option. Maybe what we call super glue in Australia is not what you are using?
If you glue wood on wood, I bet best choice is wood-glue! Eg. PVA (if you can't get Titebond where you're located). Titebond II and Titebond III are pretty good choices. CA glue / cyanoacrylate is only good for temporary stuff. It's brittle. It breaks if the thing you glued is transported by plane (due to the low temperature). Even acryllic can sometimes be better than CA glue. If you need to glue other materials to wood, epoxy can be a good way to go; just make sure that there are some places for the epoxy to get a good 'grip' in both materials, and it should last 'forever'.
Just a curiosity question. I have a 4 1/2 in benchtop jointer. It's completely useless so Jay gave me an idea with the shooting board. I wonder if I could make a power shooting board by using it's fence and setting at it's lowest setting? But would it have enough finesse and would it be a tear out monster?
Thanks Jay I thought so. I was given this jointer and have no idea what to do with it. Nobody will buy it for any price and the pieces I could joint would be to small to use for much. Don't know what to do with it but hate to throw it away.
You can make a decent power jointer using a router with a flush-trimming bit with a bearing that rides along a dead-flat guide (a strip of MDF or aluminum, for example). The limitation with that is the depth of the cutting portion of the bit. You could only edge-joint boards and not face-joint them. Another low-buck option is to use hand planes for jointing. It requires practice, as does any skill, but the advantages are no need for PPE and you can work on boards of any dimension. You also get good exercise.
Video Notes:
-Article and SketchUp file for this video: jayscustomcreations.com/2018/01/my-shooting-board-attachments/
-Shooting board video: ua-cam.com/video/gUrfzc4hai0/v-deo.html
Greetings Jay
I appreciate the simplicity of your design and the explanations you give. They make sense to me. I attempted making my first shooting board based on the design by Paul Sellers and had moderate success with it. I have used power tools almost exclusively till this winter. I have watched dozens of YT vids on hand tool woodworking over the past six months and built a smallish Nicholas bench using all hand tools. Worked out pretty well. Now I'm working on a Moxon Vice design using pegs and wedges vs. bolts and nuts. It's all fun and keeps my mind busy.
Thanks for making the video - especially without a music track!!!!
Blessings to you and yours. Handy Andy
Need to make a shooting board. It’s been on my list for about 8 years.
Thank you for your tips! Newbie here and my cuts never seem to be straight. I picked up a trim block and a small block plane (all that was available at my tiny store) and have already used it to put 45s on trim pieces. Can't wait to see how much this will help me. As someone says, a good woodworker doesn't not make mistakes, a good woodworker just knows how to clean up or hide them. :)
Jay Great stuff.
Your video, with the differing angles on the shooting board has me wondering... Can a shooting board be used as a sharpening system for Chisels and Plane Irons?
Possible setup would be with a chisel or plane Iron carriage that would shoot. Sharpening stones held, against the fence, by length for maximum sharpening surface area.
I never understood how a shooting board worked... how do you not plane away he piece of plywood that your work piece is on? Your iron is pressed up against it while you’re sliding the plane... I just don’t get how it’s still there after planning against it.
The iron ('blade') of the plane does not extend all the way to the bottom of the shooting board.
This is why it'll never eat the track the plane is sliding against.
I just finished my shooting board the other night and added the 45 attachment, but I was wondering how I might get a perfect cut for boards on the inside of a box. The donkey's ear attachment is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
A great, no nonsense video. Thanks for your efforts.
I couldn't keep my eyes off that spalted 2X4.
I have been looking for an EASY (and cheap) way of doing the donkey's ear (carcass miter) shooting board for years. THANK you! Liked & subscribed!
I love the new video style. I remember your video from a few months ago when you talked about having a habit of wanting to perfect your videos and repeating lines a lot in order to get them right. Sure that style was really clean and informative, but it didn't sound natural. This sounds natural, and I appreciate your commitment to become more laid back with your content. Thank you for all of the work you do in teaching everyone on here.
Nothing to do with a shooting board but what are your thoughts on a DIY Heat Recovery Ventilator for the absolute best air quality in a shop (or home).
They are two of the best additions to a workshop you could ask for...certainly well made by you too
Absolutely perfect. Thank you Jay!
Thanks for sharing that Jay
Dang! Ill be making one as soon as I get into my shop! Thanks!!!
Can thinner stock be used for the 'donkey ear' miter attachment? You mentioned 3/4"? Can one use 1/2" stock. Cannot seem to find 3/4" anything around here.
If you use some old dry hardwood, you should be able to go very thin. Remember that you can also glue several thin pieces together to form the thickness you need; this would probably form a very strong and stiff donkey ear.
lovely :)
I have 3/8 hole in my shooting board and 3/8 steel rod comming out of my attachments so no clamps for me
Miniature dog-holes. I like that. :)
If you at some point need to "secure" an attachment, you could always make a nut in the middle of the dog-holes and a short bolt through the attachment (this goes for other things using dog-holes/dowels as well; you'll only need one bolt, which makes for a quick attach/detach operation). The bolt could have a wooden handle attached using epoxy, if desired.
Does the fence get damaged from the blade during use?
Good information and nice little call back to the train sound. ;)
And thank you again. I watched your other clip on building the shooting board with an eye towards needing this attachment. Yes, glueing that small strip for clamping purposes makes perfect sense in my mind. Clearly presented information and application.
Must be fate, I just bought my first bench plane, a SB #5, and was planning on making your shooting board design but was wondering how to do the 45° mitre add-on
Fate indeed. You know what you must do now.
Thanks, Jay! I made this exact rig and it works great. Life saver on that end bevel idea.
Simple overall but sophisticated thinking with the clamping angle adjustments on the ramp! Thanks for the education, Alan.
My comment was going to request a video of you doing the Sketchup drawing but you already posted. Would love to see one of those again. Great stuff as always Jay!
A lot of metal planes the side is not at 90* to the sole. My Stanley is way out. If not too bad the iron can be lever adjusted. An alternative is to use a wooden plane and true the side to the sole if needed. Also a block of wood with sandpaper works as smoothly as a plane.
Thanks for the details Jay I made one of these a while back from your original idea... I took a similar approach for the flat 45, but have yet to make the other one. great content as always.
Oh yes love the train whistle......so maybe you could play it at the end of all your videos as a signature sign off like April's signature wave. 😊
Thanks for the additional detail!
You're welcome.
Very versatile piece of kit. Thanks.
Thanks, Jay. I have built a shooting board, now I need to tune up my plane to work a little better.
wow i was just going to message you today about that exact thing. thanks for uploading.
Love the train whistle! The lips from the band saw and the train whistle were so funny!
good information J been wanting to make a shooting board and great attachments for it. Thanks for sharing that.
Just built a mitered box, and I sure could have used that donkeys ear.
Very nice, thanks for posting this
Nice work Jay - simple and effective!
Excellent info Jay! Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much Jay, another great video.
Ok. I made one of the donkey ear attachments. It works perfectly for 45° mitered edges for my small boxes. Got any ideas on how to hold a piece of wood at 'any' angle on a shooting board? I need 22.5° for a project I am doing. I have no clue on how to angle the material or angle the plane. If you think of something good, can you let us know? (No table saw)
I don't know about 'any' angle, but maybe you would want to consider making a second shooting board, where you tilt the angle of the plane itself. Then you can use the 45° attachment you have already.
For every attachment you make, you'll then get two angles.
This might sound tedious, but I think that you could make a shooting-board with an adjustable angle.
Using your vise, the vise could tighten the grip over both the end of the shooting board and the special angled block, which your workpiece rest against.
The position of the pivot point may be a little tricky to get right, though. You might want to use something thin for just holding it in place, rather than something rock solid, as it's going to be close to the plane-"track"... ;)
-So imagine that your shooting board is a board with a rectangle cut out; "U"-shaped. Inside the 'U', you have a large cube of wood. On each side of this cube, you have a couple of wood-boards attached to the shooting board itself.
The cube has a snug fit between the sides of the 'U' and thus the two boards extending below the shooting board .
The vise will squeeze the two boards up against the cube, holding it all in place.
This of course assumes that your vise is wide enough to contain the cube and the two board pieces.
If you need more detail on what I mean, I'll try and see if I can make a drawing.
Just made a draft-drawing, in order to explain what I mean. It's certainly not perfect, but I think it could be used.
scratch.multitrading.dk/Shooting-Board-for-vise.zip
@@68HC060 Now that is an interesting idea. A free rotating surface that is held by a vise. This solution would never have come to me. I am thinking of a second surface on a standard shooting board secured with hinges. The top surface is tilted up to the desired angle on the hinges (near the hand plane). I have to think about how to make the drawing you sent. Thank you!
You're welcome! Actually the hinge method might not be such a bad idea - I was thinking about a hinge at first myself and some kind of bolt to adjust and secure the angle.
The old rule still applies: Simple is good. =)
You can get some hinges that use almost no space at the pivot-point.
You could probably also make a "Rob Cosman hinge", where you round the hinge side of the board and put a steel-axis through the "center". This will unfortunately make an offset on the pivot-point, but I think that could be worked around.
I also thought about making a curved groove in the large circular block, this could hold the block while changing the angle (2 curved grooves would of course be better).
Thinking a bit more about it... If going back to the other idea, where the plane is tilted, then you could use a piano-hinge to tilt the plane. I think this could work; the only problem with this approach, is that the "end-stop" would have to be adjustable (you could use a long sliding dovetail there) or it could end in a 45° angle.
Thanks Jay! Another Home Run.
Nice! I had shown your previous video to a friend who is taking a foray into woodworking and was having trouble with doing mitres on his first project, because your shooting board attachment looked ideal - Then today you post this! Great timing!
Nice touch with adding some relief to the bottom edge of the hardwood to redirect the clamping forces downwards. I like how you think. I've picked up a whole bunch of tips from your videos that I'd have probably not considered otherwise. Cheers Jay!
Glad to hear that, Stu. Thanks.
Hi Great video as always thank you.
KISS huh, not so much at first...thanks Jay.
Thanks Jay. Love the videos. Can you talk a little bit about the doors / wings that are a relatively recent add-on to the mitre-saw workstation? I hope this is clear - looks like they are there to increase dust collection performance. How are they working? I'd be interested to see a video on the specifics of this modification to your mitre-saw station given the you tube fame this project has generated, I'm sure a lot of viewers would be interested. Thanks and take care.
It's just plywood wings. I've mentioned it in a few videos. Nothing special. Just reduce the air opening where possible. ua-cam.com/video/c5tOIBfA8V8/v-deo.html
You keep on talking about super glue. Is this the same type of super glue used on glass and plastic? Cyanoacrylate?
I am used to using wood glue. Never heard of using super glue for wood. Super glue creates a molecular bond so I do not see it being very good for wood.
Also super glue normally comes in a tiny tube so would be an expensive option. Maybe what we call super glue in Australia is not what you are using?
If you glue wood on wood, I bet best choice is wood-glue!
Eg. PVA (if you can't get Titebond where you're located). Titebond II and Titebond III are pretty good choices.
CA glue / cyanoacrylate is only good for temporary stuff. It's brittle. It breaks if the thing you glued is transported by plane (due to the low temperature). Even acryllic can sometimes be better than CA glue.
If you need to glue other materials to wood, epoxy can be a good way to go; just make sure that there are some places for the epoxy to get a good 'grip' in both materials, and it should last 'forever'.
ah man.. wish I had seen this video before spending big bucks on a Metabo mitre saw that wasnt accurate on the bevel at all
Metabo are usually fairly good. Can't you micro-adjust the angles?
-If not, this sounds like something that should be covered by the warranty.
Thanks for this, Jay!
Thanks for the info Jay! 👍👊
Thanks, Jay...
thank you
Just a curiosity question. I have a 4 1/2 in benchtop jointer. It's completely useless so Jay gave me an idea with the shooting board. I wonder if I could make a power shooting board by using it's fence and setting at it's lowest setting? But would it have enough finesse and would it be a tear out monster?
I would advise against using a benchtop jointer for endgrain work.
Thanks Jay I thought so. I was given this jointer and have no idea what to do with it. Nobody will buy it for any price and the pieces I could joint would be to small to use for much. Don't know what to do with it but hate to throw it away.
Have you tried posting it in the “free” section of CL?
Ian Johnson I might give that a shot.
You can make a decent power jointer using a router with a flush-trimming bit with a bearing that rides along a dead-flat guide (a strip of MDF or aluminum, for example). The limitation with that is the depth of the cutting portion of the bit. You could only edge-joint boards and not face-joint them. Another low-buck option is to use hand planes for jointing. It requires practice, as does any skill, but the advantages are no need for PPE and you can work on boards of any dimension. You also get good exercise.
does the planer remove wood from the shooting board and if not how
it create a micro rabbet the first time you use it but the cheek of the plane prevent the blade to dig further
See the shooting board build video, jay explained it there
Thanks for bringing this video to my attention Jay!!