How to use a Shooting Board | Paul Sellers
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2020
- If you have never used a shooting board for squaring up the ends of wood and finalising rough-cut mitres, you are in for a treat.
Nothing works so beautifully for perfecting such cuts, and the pure bliss of slicing off those onion skins to seat the two faces perfectly is second to none. It's self-explanatory to make one of these, but showing it in use demystifies how they work and why they work so very well. You must make one for yourself. It's another lifetime piece of equipment for the cost of wood scraps and an hour of your time!
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That mitre been the best thing I’ve seen all morning.
The wonderful joke at the end makes the video even better. Thank you, Paul. Keep save, keep healthy. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
damned I m french and I miss understood the joke so could you please explain to a poor french guy with a very low english level ?
@@rplh3333 it’s a play on the sound of words, Most English speakers will not sound the whole word correctly so the phrase “might have” is often pronounced as one word and would sound like “mightah” which sounds like mitre as in “mitre done better”
@@67spoon Thanks I got it now
@@67spoon really well explained.
@@hypnoraythompson5824 I'm french and one mitre think I could have explained it better, but nope!
I made a shooting board according to Paul's design over a year ago, as my old shooting board was pretty beat up. The new board works flawlessly.
I have used it with almost every bench plane I have, as well as with my block planes, and it works perfectly. Overall. though, prefer to use it with my #6 fore plane because of it's straight blade profile, larger gripping surface, and added weight -- but that's just my preference.
This is a great shooting board. With a touch of furniture wax on the plane bearing surface every so often, the plane slides like silk.
Thanks again, Paul!
Mit'a been better. LOL ... Thanks for the laugh, and cheeky grin!
Another is 'square if it could be' to describe a dodgy 'Try-to-be square'.
anyhow, lookin good there Paul. Stay safe please.
Perfectly explained as ever Paul, thankyou for sharing.
Made 2 of these this weekend. Not with mitres, or removable fences. After using my small one (the big one is gluing up) I remain gobsmacked how easy it is to get 90deg square faces and edges. A great invention, kudos to the inventor. Thanks Paul, Stumpy Nubs, Graeme for the tips.
i don't have a chopsaw
i don't have room for a copsaw
but
i have room for a shooting board and
i have just learned a great way to substantially improve my work.
have a thumbs-up on your video, good sir!
Every UA-cam woodworker: “Make sure to use plywood, solid wood can move”
Sellers: “PINE”
But he only had it for 10 years, that pine might move later!
Thank’s Paul. 👍
Thank you Paul. Another amazing video.
Awesome!!! Love your teaching Paul!
Thanks for sharing that, well said!
Thanks Paul. Nice tip at the end! Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Good one.
I'm making one for myself.
So simple. There's no need look elsewhere. Great for my picture frame business 👍👍
Love your videos Paul. Greatest thing on UA-cam!
Great video, as always.
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this and the set up of it to us !!!!
I'll be making one today !!!
I'd love to have a chop saw but can't afford one , so everything I do drilling sawing flattening ,,, everything has to be done by hand
I'm a power tool worker. Can't beat a shooting board for cleaning the end or sneaking up on a perfect fit.
Thanks for sharing Paul. Nice Thor Hammer, Made in Birmingham
MAESTRO, I have got to tell you how much I like your explanations... believe me! At last, I have understood why the blade does not cut the board! That was my thought and for this reason I had never built one of'em. Tomorrow, I'll make one!
Greetings from Roma, Italia!
It's a great tool!
great vid- thx much
Thank you master, great video, i really love the way you explain things, keep safe & merry christmas .
Thank you.
Thank you Paul for doing the demonstration of this shooting board design. Thank you especially for the tip about blade angle on the shooting plane being adjusted for an out of square condition of the plane base. Take care, stay well and Happy Holidays to you and your family.
I agree, that tip was something I never heard. What I heard is people suggesting you have to spend possibly hours with sandpaper on a flat surface, somehow trying to achieve those 90 degrees. I have 3 vintage Stanley planes - #4, #9 1/2, #60 1/2, and for some reason all three of them have the sides at slightly less than 90 degrees to the sole. I haven't built a shooting board yet, but it's good to know that I don't need to worry about those sides being perpendicular. On the other hand, with this tip, you gotta make sure you set up the iron at the correct presentation angle, every time you are going to use the plane for shooting. Make a test cut, check with a square, adjust, another test cut etc. Maybe have a dedicated plane used only for shooting, always set up and ready to go.
Man, I really need to make a new shooting board. Current one works, but is a major kludge.
Also holy heck, you weren't kidding on the 10 years thing, that's the same exact one you made on camera 7 years ago. Same ring pattern and same notches on the bottom of the endgrain. I would have thought it was knocked to pieces by now.
Thank you, Mr. Sellers: a great explanation, and I loved the joke. Cheers.
"This is going to see me out". Wonderful sentence never heard that before (non-native speaker). I had to stop the video and think how hilarious it is :) .Nevertheless you mentioned that there isn't much difference to using smoothing plane and low angle block plane. I tried to find but couldn't find block planes in any videos. I would love to hear Paul's take on block planes.
Genius
Great video as always. Also, hair is looking good Paul!
I am instructed.
I made a shooting board over the holidays. But when I tried my metal planes I found my 70-year-old hand had trouble gripping and pushing them. So I am restoring an old wooden joiner plane with square sides and mounting a handle on one side. Hope it works :)
considering handmaking picture frames, this is perfect
Love your shooting board design. I think I'll have a go at making this one as I don't yet have a shooting board. Now I just have to find the video where you made it.
Paul, thank you. I have a project that needs a 30 degree bevel along the length of the piece. The pieces are about 48" long. I need the angles precise because I am using them to make a 6 sided tube. Thanks.
Your Shooting Board is much prettier than mine. :D But hey, mine works, so thank you for the instructional!
Love the mitre joke because that is exactly what I think when I cut mitres lol.
No tool can replace the master. No Lie Nielsen plane can replace a master with a chisel. Thank you Mr. Paul
Not only the sacrificial piece, but I think all my handtools are going to see me out one day.
I have some of my great great grandfather's tools, so I'm the 5th generation to own them. I use his chisels at work so maybe I'll see some of them out - it's about time! 😁
@@ironpirate8 Those aren't tools but relics. I would cherish them and display them if you have the space of course. My oldest Stanley no 4 is from the 1940's. Its gonna see me out to.
@@laurencegoedar462 I know what you mean, but the way I think about it is that if they become ornaments, they have lost their purpose and usefulness, and that seems a shame. If I just keep them and nobody values them after me, they might get thrown away. So I use them.
We don't own tools we just have our turn with them @@ironpirate8
Fantastic, Paul! Thanks a lot for all the tips! 😃
I still need to make one of those! 😬
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Most mid-range chop saws don't cut square without very careful setup and testing that can take a lot of time. Even then they drift out of square pretty quickly.
I just watched this for the umpteenth time and just caught where he says "this is going to see me out, I am pretty sure" LOL
4:11 I was shocked to hear that, but then I remembered a few years ago I watched a video you did on making a shooting board and made mine based on that. Just checked the old video and sure it was the same shooting board that you're showing here! pretty amazing!
Thank you Paul. I have 3 chop/miter saws and they don't even come close for fine work compared to my shooting board.
My version of the shooting board has a piece of High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) on the base for the 'side' of the plane to run on to reduce the friction. I also have a narrow piece of HDPE above that that acts as a guide for the plane. The part of the plane sole at the side of the blade runs on this. This provides guidance but is narrow enough not to be cut by the plane blade. I adopted this method as the 'fence' normally gets damaged by the plane eventually, perhaps it is just carelessness sometimes not holding the plane flat on it's side. I normally slide the plane up and down and then gradually feet the workpiece in until the plane starts cutting.
The shooting board is also great for making pieces of wood that have 4 sides with 4 right angle corners, of course they have to be small enough to fit onto the shooting board in all 4 orientations. The only thing you need to be careful with is which are the sqaure corners and which sides need to be planed to end up with a square work piece..
I mitre watch this video again
Like how you threw in the mitre joke to cover the fact that you had not cut a mitre on the wood but a straight edge. Good thinking on your feet:)
Nope. You can see the mitred piece (short) at 7:08 as the cut is finished. At 7:11 Paul is grabbing a longer, straight-edge piece of the same moulding and waving that around as he makes the joke. Whether the cut piece "mitre been" better is an open question, but it was definitely cut at 45 degrees, since it was leaning against the 45 degree wedge.
Very interesting take on a shooting board! I like the idea of being able to shoot perpendicular or at 45 degree angles. The one thing though is I personally feel that using a #4 smoother as the plane of choice for shooting seems to lack the mass / weight necessary to shoot larger end grain (looks like it works fine for smaller stock though). I would go with at least a #5 1/2 jack plane or larger for shooting most end grain, mainly for the sheer greater size and mass.. additionally, the distance of the front tip of the plane to the mouth on the bottom of the plane's soul is longer when dealing with larger planes, which gives more reference surface and gives greater distance to push those bigger planes through.
I also think using a bigger plane is more effective. And I've always thought there was something philosophical about woodwork but I have never considered the question of whether planes have souls ;) If any tool did though, it would probably be the plane
Great video Paul! I’ve always wondered how critical it is for the plane sole and side to be at a perfect right angle and now I know the answer!
Another thing that I’m wondering about is how you achieve repeatability. If, for example, you’re making a picture frame, do you plane up to a knife wall line? With a chop saw, you can obviously set up a stop block, but I don’t see how that’d work for a shooting board. Perhaps a spring loaded flip stop? But there would need to be very little play in the stop to make this work.
I offer one piece to the other (or a master) to ensure they are of identical length. I work to just beyond the pencil line (length), compare, and trim accordingly, making one or two passes until I can feel no difference when they held tightly together.
@@alecgarner That makes complete sense. Thanks for the tip!
I really like the wedge approach to making a shooting board, I'm surprised I don't see it more often on the UA-cam rounds. Maybe everyone wants to do their own take I suppose, which is fine. Rob Cosman always cants his piece slightly for the first few passes before flipping to process from the other side to avoid breakout on the workpiece. I always wondered if this was completely necessary and I notice Paul doesn't do it here. Trial and error I suppose!
The 90° backer piece is there to stop breakout. As long as you hold your workpiece secure to the backer. Rob Cosman always likes to be different is why he's "invented" 20 different ways of cutting dovetails & sharpening blade edges!
Video AND dad joke, we're getting bonus content.
"this is going to see me out" :D. Jokes aside - such a beautiful solution
This is a nice board and it seems to work great. I've read before a piece of advice about making the rebate as a slight ramp. With a regular shooting board and thin stock, the same small portion of the plane's iron does the cutting, when it gets dull, the rest of the edge is still sharp, but you have to stop and resharpen. With a ramp, the plane goes up as you push it forward, so a wider portion of the iron is utilised, so you don't need to sharpen as often. I wonder what Paul and the other watchers think about this, does the ramped board have any disadvantages as well?
However i like the logic behind this, I am certain that dulling is not an issue with a shooting board or planing in general. You do not shift to another piece of blade if it gets dul, you need that piece of the plane, so if one spot gets dull or the entire blade, that does not matter. You must have it sharp all the way, every time.... Cheers!
What do you do when the stock you are planing is greater than 50% bigger/higher than the available cutting surface of the exposed iron?
Miter pun is top 3 woodworking puns I've heard.
Rimshot for Paul! The stage is calling....you missed your calling, (thank God).
Great video! Do you ever use a donkeys ear shooting board Paul? Is there any other way than this to cut long mitres to join for instance a cabinet carcass together?
What plane are you using?
Mmm it might have been better 😂🤣🤣😆... Had a belly laugh with that 😂🤣😆
Can I use a Stanley No 5 with a shooting board?
Good video but I would like to see more closeups of the actual work being shot.
'Mitre been better'. Hi Dad.
I understand that when you put your stanley on its side, there is a bit of clearance where there is no blade. (Doesn't look like much but regardless)
I don't understand how the blade that DOES reach the "sacrificial wood" isn't cutting into that wood???
I must be missing something, How do you not plane your own jig as well as the stock?
Seems like at also prevents tear out since you have the cut backed up.
My biggest problem with my shooting board is my planes are so cold in winter. Converting my 5 1/2 with a new grip from handle to tote is beyond me (but would be the answer here).
So I need a plane cosy.
You need a shop heater
You need wooden planes instead of metal stanley ones. ;)
@@jeskasper yeah, I am considering attempting to make a jointer - if the 3 blades I have clean up well enough to be viable - but I might just buy one too. But wooden is the way to go.
I always thought it was called a shooting board because the plane runs in a chute, and over time that 'chute' morphed to 'shoot'.
I understand how the plane blade does not cut the fence because the blade does not extend across the whole width of the plane (after an initial pass or two). What I don't understand is why the far side of the work piece you are planing doesn't get blown out because the adjustable fence is not supporting it...the work extends beyond the fence.
About 24 hours ago I finished my very first shooting board. Not a fancy one (I have not been into "mightr've been better's" yet), just a dead square one, mainly for shooting end grains.
I have already shot something so far, but my biggest concern is about the hand's grip onto the plane.
Can anyone help with a sketch / explanation / whatever, kindly please?
Is there a drawing or specs for making this for us new folks?
Oh I see this video... ua-cam.com/video/-Ypbvcxb-8M/v-deo.html
It mitre been better... not likely if you cut it Paul, it would've been perfect first time!
🤗🤗🔝🔝👏👏💪
Mine is never that smooth. I either take no cut at all, or it "clunks" over the end grain. My end grain is always left bumpy too.
Brother iam ready to hulk smash, using a woodriver ive sharpened that blade shaving hairs with ease, go hit the new cool shooting board i just made look all fancy an shit, an "clunkity" "chunkity" now the blade needs reshaped an the cycle continues. 🤯
Yeah it's a common issue. Sometimes it can be because your trying to shave too much and/or the saw cut t is too inaccurate Start off with your plane as you would for finish planing a board - first couple off passes will take almost nothing but keep going until you get a full shaving then adjust your cut. It is tedious that first time. Another going back to basics technique I use for difficult grain is to butt my plane up against the shooting board then butt my stock up against the plane in front of the cutting edge - this should mean only a single shaving is possible. So do it the boring tedious way and then adjust. But better sawing makes easier shooting so I'm away for sawing practice, I still need it ;)
That's all in the setting of your plane. Takes practice, lots of practice and even more practice. Cheers :)
When I first started using mine I had the same results and usually made the cut worse. It was frustrating but after keeping at it my technique evolved and now my shooting board works great. I can`t tell you what I did differently but I made micro adjustments by feel and now I can`t live without it.
@@wolverinebear5357 that was my experience too and I gave up on mitres because of it until recently. It’s partly about using the right plane (heavier is easier for me and a longer plane seems more stable on the shooting board). Adjusting the blade with the lateral adjuster to get a perpendicular cut is important of course. The plane needs to be very sharp and the amount of overhang of the workpiece is important too. In the end practice and perseverance was the answer for me. I am slowly getting better at this.
As the whole shooting board is made of solid wood. Is there an issue with seasonal movement of wood and it going out of square?
Great presenting style, very clear and knowledge.
"Shooting board" used to be "chuting board." This spelling makes me think it is related to French "chute" - an abrupt fall off or edge, as in les chutes - waterfall, or un chute - a twist ending to a story (an abrupt end to the action). Chute, then, is a sharp, defined edge that falls off (in this case, to 90°).
I think he's had it for seven years, 'cos I've just watched the video when he made it - dated 2013, and this one is dated 2020! So it's eight years now, and I know it's the same one, 'cos he lost the little corner between the 45s when he was making it. What's astonishing is that he hasn't aged a day in those seven years, and I had to look at the dates to know that he didn't make this video immediately after the other one. Is he secretly Methuselah?
I still have to make me a shooting board.
99 cents is a fraction of a dollar. 15/16ths is a fraction of an inch.
That's all well and good, Paul, but if you'd been pumping out the content recently we might not all have succumbed to this Covid madness. Like chicken soup for the brain. Keep it up.
This was posted to a different video. Why does it go here because I didn't finish typing in time?
My shooting board is a piece of junk. That or my blade isn’t sharp enough. Always end up just squaring the ends in the vice.
So Paul does tell Father jokes.
I notice when your finished with the plane you put the plane on it's face or base. this the blade down on the bench. I have the habit of placing the plan on it's side. that way blade is not damaged.
Your studio light is to bright.
It is perfect.
@@1959Berre Too many reflections and too little shade. This makes it look too artificial
Buy some sunglasses - I think the lighting is perfect
@@julesjell you are right now it is better
I need to stop listening to rob cosman.