You made it look so simple. Thanks. All those rods and clips, tested my patience. Well, I did replace my broken door lock actuator. Your video was the spark needed to get this long over due task.
The easiest way to do it : Remove the window rail by unscrew one bolt (located outside at side of the door) Then you can put your hand inside and use your finger to unclip + unhook the yellow plastic rod. And then remove the 3 bolts connected to handle (including the lock bolts) from inside. Then door handle will come out effortlessly. Put the new handle in first. (without connecting anything) Then everything in reverse (Screw the bolts & connect the rods etc)
Thanks for the video as it helped me get started. I see you wiggled the handle back into position in less than a minute whereas it took me over an hour. The problem was that little plastic tab on the handle that needs to slide behind the sheet metal in the door. It was almost impossible for me to get the handle positioned properly. That little tab is what broke in my original handle. Very porr design, in my opinion, by Toyota. That little plastic tab takes a lot of abuse, especially in a mini-van. If kids are yanking on the door handle when the door is locked, they will keep pulling until that little plastic tab breaks off. That tab should be made of metal, or better yet, there should be another bolt holding it secure. Yeah right, I know, that would add to the cost of the mini-van and they chose to cut this corner to keep the price down. I'm OK with their choices as my 2000 Sienna has over 250,000 miles and still running strong. I can handle a few non-critical parts breaking down once in a while.
...For removing blind bolts (you can see it, you just can't reach it), fill the socket about 1/4 the way full of wheel bearing grease, then remove the blind bolt. The wheel bearing grease will hold the bolt head keeping it from falling inside the door during removal. To install the bolt (you guessed it), put wheel bearing grease in the socket and then put the bolt in the socket. Start the bolt by hand holding the extension and finish tightening with ratchet handle. Works while accessing all blind bolts. Clean up socket with a paper towel...😎
Thank you for this video. It is one of the most helpful for replacing the door handles on the Toyota Sienna. The door handles are the worst part of this car. I have replaced the rear hatch mechanism twice, had to readjust the cable tension in both sliding doors, and now the drivers side exterior door handle cracked right down the middle. I never had a problem with older American car door handles. The use of plastic in the designs is the culprit for sure - something always cracks! This repair took me almost 2 hours to complete, and it was helpful to look at other videos to remove the sliding window rail guide. It was a little tricky to reinstall the guide rail once it was unbolted since you have to tell by feel where the top of it engages in a slot. This was necessary to get at the door latching lever, since it was necessary to get access to remove and reinstall the plastic retaining clip. My door panel also had a different electrical connector which was very difficult to find the latch release tab, which is a small hidden tab located near the insulation - finding the tab was very frustrating. Also I got a very poor fitting replacement door handle on Ebay which leaves a large gap where the door handle fits the door. Had to use duct tape or silicone sealant to prevent rain water from getting inside the door. Not sure which other aftermarket door handles have this problem. After a painstaking 2 hours to install, I wasn't about to replace it again. Except for the 1/16"-1/8" wide gaps I am quite sure it is not from my failure to install it correctly. The screws and bolts all fit where they are supposed to and the door handle works perfectly.
you probably left out the door handle lining that was between the handle and the door, which takes care of the proper fitting of the handle to the door...
The new handle also came with its own black lining, but it was still a very poor fit. Great video nevertheless. The funky design of the handle works when it works, but is easily damaged. @@metubeslave
I did have the same problem, there was a serious gap between the handle and the door, even though all the screws fit well and the door opens and closes. I will be complaining to the handles seller on Amazon cause they don't really fit like they said they would, and, I will be asking for my money back. I may go to a wrecking yard to find an original.
@@jeffw6716 went to a wrecking yard, there were plenty, I found one exterior passenger like new, I am happy and I returned the order from Amazon, didn't fit properly, and made me work harder and longer, what a waste of time and work
@@metubeslave Bravo! Great job! For my lazy self - the black silicone RTV sealant looks amateurish, but it keeps the water out. My technique to preserve the door handle is to use one or two fingers to pull the handle while using the thumb to push against the stationary keylock. This will put less stress on the center door handle structure that ends up cracking.
Thanks big time for this video. Saved me from having to purchase the shop manual and saved me a lot of time over trying to figure it out the “old fashioned way” with no instructions.
Thank you for the video. I had replaced the driver's side handle on my Sienna a few years back, but was having a much harder time with the passenger side. I followed your recommendation to attach the lock while the handle is still outside the door. I took me a long to get the assembly back in, but I saw you had done it so I just kept trying.
these toyota handles are practically disposable....it's all about the labor....super cheap plastic only lasts a few years...i've replaced several many times....what ya get with cheap plastic....thanks fior the refresher course.
It is extremely difficult to pull it out and back when everything is connected. But if something is not connected then impossible to connect from inside. Very frustrating design from Toyota there. I think other people are right about doing the connections from inside after removing the window rail. Cut the tie that holds the electric wire to the lock, that will give wiggle room a bit.
I have watched your video over and over and others too. I am finding it absolutely impossible to keep the metal arm on and in position (the one that you seem to be able to pull out easily to attach to the new handle ). It seems like the place the metal piece fits on to appears to be somewhat worn down. Do you have any words of wisdom as to what I might be able to do to help that metal arm stay in position while attaching the new handle? The old handle was still opening and closing the door, prior to my attempting to install the new handle, so I have to believe that arm should still operate properly...if done some other way... Any and all advice would be much appreciated, as ALL handles are broken now, totally inoperable!
Thank you for the tip!! I finally found a guy that was willing to take a look at what I needed help with. I took no more then 5 minutes for him to install the new handle on both front doors!! I just made a job way harder than it should've been!!
@@Whiteboardcoder The only reason it lasted 18 years before it came off was due to the van living most of its life in Southern California until I took delivery of it in Ohio 8 mos. back. I had to run a forced air porto heater on a stool by the door to unfreeze and thoroughly dry out the passenger handle so as not to have it come off in my hand as the driver door did after a freezing rain.
Using this video you are definitely going to break the metal piece which holds the clip. It shopuld not take more than five minute to install the handle once the door panel is off.
All due respect but I tried like hell to relink the handle mechanism with it outside the door void as you do and ended up breaking the pot metal arm trying to get it back in- that arm being the deal breaker getting it in. If I try to link it with the handle already in then the lock tumbler prevents door void access for the handle. I've rebuilt a 4 barrel carb and the top end of a motorcycle but after much swearing and weeks crawling in the van through the passenger door and ordering yet another new handle and trying again I'm throwing in the towel and paying the mechanic down the street the $80 to f'n do it. PS the other clips show the handle being relinked after its mounted in the door void.
@@Whiteboardcoder i know all this is possible, I wont take no for an answer, ive done so many different door handles and window motors, ill figure it out, i dont like working on cars but i dont have the money to pay anyone, now just waiting for a warm day to pop up, LOL
Bad bad bad explanation about how to remove the elbow rest. I broke three tabs on mine. There are tabs on the front to push with. Screw driver and then the rest needs to be pulled UP, strait up, do not twist the ones in the back, they will break.
Thanks! Turned a job that would have taken me "forever" into a job I finished in 1/2 hour to 45 minutes. Thanks for the great DYI video. :)
Thanks for the video! Replacing my door handle was surprisingly easy and your tutorial helped me save what I'm sure would have been a bunch of money!
You made it look so simple. Thanks. All those rods and clips, tested my patience. Well, I did replace my broken door lock actuator. Your video was the spark needed to get this long over due task.
The easiest way to do it :
Remove the window rail by unscrew one bolt (located outside at side of the door)
Then you can put your hand inside and use your finger to unclip + unhook the yellow plastic rod.
And then remove the 3 bolts connected to handle (including the lock bolts) from inside.
Then door handle will come out effortlessly.
Put the new handle in first.
(without connecting anything)
Then everything in reverse
(Screw the bolts & connect the rods etc)
Thanks for the video as it helped me get started. I see you wiggled the handle back into position in less than a minute whereas it took me over an hour. The problem was that little plastic tab on the handle that needs to slide behind the sheet metal in the door. It was almost impossible for me to get the handle positioned properly. That little tab is what broke in my original handle. Very porr design, in my opinion, by Toyota. That little plastic tab takes a lot of abuse, especially in a mini-van. If kids are yanking on the door handle when the door is locked, they will keep pulling until that little plastic tab breaks off. That tab should be made of metal, or better yet, there should be another bolt holding it secure. Yeah right, I know, that would add to the cost of the mini-van and they chose to cut this corner to keep the price down. I'm OK with their choices as my 2000 Sienna has over 250,000 miles and still running strong. I can handle a few non-critical parts breaking down once in a while.
...For removing blind bolts (you can see it, you just can't reach it), fill the socket about 1/4 the way full of wheel bearing grease, then remove the blind bolt. The wheel bearing grease will hold the bolt head keeping it from falling inside the door during removal. To install the bolt (you guessed it), put wheel bearing grease in the socket and then put the bolt in the socket. Start the bolt by hand holding the extension and finish tightening with ratchet handle. Works while accessing all blind bolts. Clean up socket with a paper towel...😎
Thank you for this video. It is one of the most helpful for replacing the door handles on the Toyota Sienna. The door handles are the worst part of this car. I have replaced the rear hatch mechanism twice, had to readjust the cable tension in both sliding doors, and now the drivers side exterior door handle cracked right down the middle. I never had a problem with older American car door handles. The use of plastic in the designs is the culprit for sure - something always cracks!
This repair took me almost 2 hours to complete, and it was helpful to look at other videos to remove the sliding window rail guide. It was a little tricky to reinstall the guide rail once it was unbolted since you have to tell by feel where the top of it engages in a slot. This was necessary to get at the door latching lever, since it was necessary to get access to remove and reinstall the plastic retaining clip. My door panel also had a different electrical connector which was very difficult to find the latch release tab, which is a small hidden tab located near the insulation - finding the tab was very frustrating.
Also I got a very poor fitting replacement door handle on Ebay which leaves a large gap where the door handle fits the door. Had to use duct tape or silicone sealant to prevent rain water from getting inside the door. Not sure which other aftermarket door handles have this problem. After a painstaking 2 hours to install, I wasn't about to replace it again. Except for the 1/16"-1/8" wide gaps I am quite sure it is not from my failure to install it correctly. The screws and bolts all fit where they are supposed to and the door handle works perfectly.
you probably left out the door handle lining that was between the handle and the door, which takes care of the proper fitting of the handle to the door...
The new handle also came with its own black lining, but it was still a very poor fit. Great video nevertheless. The funky design of the handle works when it works, but is easily damaged. @@metubeslave
I did have the same problem, there was a serious gap between the handle and the door, even though all the screws fit well and the door opens and closes. I will be complaining to the handles seller on Amazon cause they don't really fit like they said they would, and, I will be asking for my money back. I may go to a wrecking yard to find an original.
@@jeffw6716 went to a wrecking yard, there were plenty, I found one exterior passenger like new, I am happy and I returned the order from Amazon, didn't fit properly, and made me work harder and longer, what a waste of time and work
@@metubeslave Bravo! Great job! For my lazy self - the black silicone RTV sealant looks amateurish, but it keeps the water out. My technique to preserve the door handle is to use one or two fingers to pull the handle while using the thumb to push against the stationary keylock. This will put less stress on the center door handle structure that ends up cracking.
Thanks big time for this video. Saved me from having to purchase the shop manual and saved me a lot of time over trying to figure it out the “old fashioned way” with no instructions.
Glad to help :)
Thank you for the video. I had replaced the driver's side handle on my Sienna a few years back, but was having a much harder time with the passenger side. I followed your recommendation to attach the lock while the handle is still outside the door. I took me a long to get the assembly back in, but I saw you had done it so I just kept trying.
these toyota handles are practically disposable....it's all about the labor....super cheap plastic only lasts a few years...i've replaced several many times....what ya get with cheap plastic....thanks fior the refresher course.
You are doing it the hard way.remove the rear window slide.only one bolt.so much easier
Don’t hit on the handle when you install it, it will break the plastic tab in the back. It should slice smoothly in position.
Thank you. Helps a lot.
...thanks for the video, i'll try it tomorrow...
Would you mind building a playlist for the Sienna repairs on your channel? That would be awesome! Great content, keep it up
I used an open wrench to get the second bolt on door handle.
Good job man
thanks for help
It is extremely difficult to pull it out and back when everything is connected. But if something is not connected then impossible to connect from inside. Very frustrating design from Toyota there.
I think other people are right about doing the connections from inside after removing the window rail.
Cut the tie that holds the electric wire to the lock, that will give wiggle room a bit.
I have watched your video over and over and others too. I am finding it absolutely impossible to keep the metal arm on and in position (the one that you seem to be able to pull out easily to attach to the new handle ). It seems like the place the metal piece fits on to appears to be somewhat worn down. Do you have any words of wisdom as to what I might be able to do to help that metal arm stay in position while attaching the new handle? The old handle was still opening and closing the door, prior to my attempting to install the new handle, so I have to believe that arm should still operate properly...if done some other way... Any and all advice would be much appreciated, as ALL handles are broken now, totally inoperable!
Remove the window slide rail.only one bolt.makes the job so much easier.
Thank you for the tip!! I finally found a guy that was willing to take a look at what I needed help with. I took no more then 5 minutes for him to install the new handle on both front doors!! I just made a job way harder than it should've been!!
awesome thank you for making this!
3:40 I can’t simply pull that plastic piece out. I took the screw out and it’s so stuck I feel like I will break it if I pull any harder.
good job there, I gotta do the inner and outer on mine, I hate how toyotas plastic parts all snap off
Yeah a bit of a pain, but to give them some credit they did get a piece of plastic to last 18 years, so that's something.
@@Whiteboardcoder The only reason it lasted 18 years before it came off was due to the van living most of its life in Southern California until I took delivery of it in Ohio 8 mos. back. I had to run a forced air porto heater on a stool by the door to unfreeze and thoroughly dry out the passenger handle so as not to have it come off in my hand as the driver door did after a freezing rain.
Using this video you are definitely going to break the metal piece which holds the clip. It shopuld not take more than five minute to install the handle once the door panel is off.
All due respect but I tried like hell to relink the handle mechanism with it outside the door void as you do and ended up breaking the pot metal arm trying to get it back in- that arm being the deal breaker getting it in. If I try to link it with the handle already in then the lock tumbler prevents door void access for the handle. I've rebuilt a 4 barrel carb and the top end of a motorcycle but after much swearing and weeks crawling in the van through the passenger door and ordering yet another new handle and trying again I'm throwing in the towel and paying the mechanic down the street the $80 to f'n do it. PS the other clips show the handle being relinked after its mounted in the door void.
Sorry to hear that. Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you :(
@@Whiteboardcoder i know all this is possible, I wont take no for an answer, ive done so many different door handles and window motors, ill figure it out, i dont like working on cars but i dont have the money to pay anyone, now just waiting for a warm day to pop up, LOL
Remove rear window track.one bolt.soooo much easier.
Quick question what is the bolt size if anyone knows?
Where can I get the handle for the back boot
Bad bad bad explanation about how to remove the elbow rest. I broke three tabs on mine. There are tabs on the front to push with. Screw driver and then the rest needs to be pulled UP, strait up, do not twist the ones in the back, they will break.