I can't recommend poly RTABs in a e46! I had Strongflex red PU RTABs and the driving was horribile on high speeds and high speed corners. At low speeds it was okay. But since I switched to Uniball RTABs the car feels totally different! Much safer, much more planted on the Road an in Corners. And while braking the rear stays where it should be: straight. Best mod for e46 imo. Your rear diff bushing looks cooked too. Needs a replacement soon. Keep the good work up!
Thanks for sharing your experience! In my case, it's the complete opposite, I can't recommend them enough. Your problem with Strongflex Red PU cound be due to their compound being softer (80 ShA vs Powerflex's Black Series 95 ShA) or the overall design of their RTAB's, leaving wheel misalignment aside. But either way, glad to hear you've been getting good results with the Uniballs, from what I understand, they seem to be the quintessential RTAB for the E46 chassis. Did you leave the rest of the bushings stock? Or you're using then in combination with PU and rubber? Any recommendations on suspension dampers? In regards to the diff bushing - yes, it's cooked. I have a new one sitting on the shelf, waiting for decent weather so I can install it.
@@alexderkach_ Well the PU RTABs were pretty tight even after 2 years. The problem is that the trailing arm can't follow his toecurve with pu. That even stresses the Chassis mounting point. That's what I have heard and read about this. Maybe it's different with the powerflex black ones. I got oem unibal (lemförder) bushings in my trailing arm top and bottom. Upper inner wishbone bush is still PU red 80 sha, but soon I will change it like you to powerflex black. The bottom wishbone is from the e46 csl with inner oem unibal. The 3 diff bushings are Strongflex 80sha red. A bit more differential noise but still "dailyable". And I checked the big rear bushing after 70k km and it still looks good. I have a ST XTA Suspension with adjustable front top mount for more camber. That's pretty good for ~1200€ But if you are running good semislicks and are fast it is too soft. Then i would change to a ST XTA plus 3 or KW Clubsport.
Hmm what you're saying about the toe curve makes sense. So I guess if I eliminated the deflection from the RTAB by stiffening that point, the next weakest point would that flimsy stamped steel lower control arm and the lower exterior bushing. Because the upper exterior bushing is a solid spherical bushing, which allows for the extra degree of freedom. I wonder if it would be possible to visually see the deflection on it, by stiking a camera underneath the car and taking it for a spin on a twisty backroad. In your case, after switching to Uniball, have you had to reinforce the mounting points (by welding)? If not, have you noticed any cracks on the chassis? I've always heard people laughing at the e46 chassis for being soft and crack, but never quite understood the exact reason behind it. I think this only happens when you start stiffening what otherwise would be the designed weakest point of the suspension, but maybe you could share some of your experiences in this regard.
@@alexderkach_ So from what I read about the past 7 years is, that the 4 subframe mounts crack a lot because of the rubber bushing are too soft or getting to much play, which causes a bending force on the bolts which cracks the "soft" chassis. On my compact I don't have cracks after 220k km, only some surface rust but I upgraded too PU 80 Sha 70k km ago. The RTA mounts are also a little rusty but no cracks. I read that Unibal as RTAB is the best and even the most stressless solution for the mounting points. Also the subframe bushings should be as hard as possibile. Of course stiffening every mounting point with reinforcement plates is always the best option, but I tried it without and have an eye on it.
I can't recommend poly RTABs in a e46! I had Strongflex red PU RTABs and the driving was horribile on high speeds and high speed corners. At low speeds it was okay. But since I switched to Uniball RTABs the car feels totally different! Much safer, much more planted on the Road an in Corners. And while braking the rear stays where it should be: straight. Best mod for e46 imo.
Your rear diff bushing looks cooked too. Needs a replacement soon. Keep the good work up!
Thanks for sharing your experience! In my case, it's the complete opposite, I can't recommend them enough. Your problem with Strongflex Red PU cound be due to their compound being softer (80 ShA vs Powerflex's Black Series 95 ShA) or the overall design of their RTAB's, leaving wheel misalignment aside. But either way, glad to hear you've been getting good results with the Uniballs, from what I understand, they seem to be the quintessential RTAB for the E46 chassis. Did you leave the rest of the bushings stock? Or you're using then in combination with PU and rubber? Any recommendations on suspension dampers?
In regards to the diff bushing - yes, it's cooked. I have a new one sitting on the shelf, waiting for decent weather so I can install it.
@@alexderkach_ Well the PU RTABs were pretty tight even after 2 years. The problem is that the trailing arm can't follow his toecurve with pu. That even stresses the Chassis mounting point. That's what I have heard and read about this. Maybe it's different with the powerflex black ones.
I got oem unibal (lemförder) bushings in my trailing arm top and bottom. Upper inner wishbone bush is still PU red 80 sha, but soon I will change it like you to powerflex black.
The bottom wishbone is from the e46 csl with inner oem unibal. The 3 diff bushings are Strongflex 80sha red. A bit more differential noise but still "dailyable". And I checked the big rear bushing after 70k km and it still looks good.
I have a ST XTA Suspension with adjustable front top mount for more camber. That's pretty good for ~1200€ But if you are running good semislicks and are fast it is too soft. Then i would change to a ST XTA plus 3 or KW Clubsport.
Hmm what you're saying about the toe curve makes sense. So I guess if I eliminated the deflection from the RTAB by stiffening that point, the next weakest point would that flimsy stamped steel lower control arm and the lower exterior bushing. Because the upper exterior bushing is a solid spherical bushing, which allows for the extra degree of freedom. I wonder if it would be possible to visually see the deflection on it, by stiking a camera underneath the car and taking it for a spin on a twisty backroad.
In your case, after switching to Uniball, have you had to reinforce the mounting points (by welding)? If not, have you noticed any cracks on the chassis? I've always heard people laughing at the e46 chassis for being soft and crack, but never quite understood the exact reason behind it. I think this only happens when you start stiffening what otherwise would be the designed weakest point of the suspension, but maybe you could share some of your experiences in this regard.
@@alexderkach_ So from what I read about the past 7 years is, that the 4 subframe mounts crack a lot because of the rubber bushing are too soft or getting to much play, which causes a bending force on the bolts which cracks the "soft" chassis. On my compact I don't have cracks after 220k km, only some surface rust but I upgraded too PU 80 Sha 70k km ago.
The RTA mounts are also a little rusty but no cracks. I read that Unibal as RTAB is the best and even the most stressless solution for the mounting points. Also the subframe bushings should be as hard as possibile.
Of course stiffening every mounting point with reinforcement plates is always the best option, but I tried it without and have an eye on it.
Скільки Ти топив в кінці відео?
What tool kit did you use to remove the rubber bushings please?
It's this one: amzn.to/3WHfueu
hey
Скільки Ти топив в кінці відео ?