I just bought my e36 m3. The previous owner had Polyurethane rtab and it was really bad. I switched to OEM and no more squeaking, but the car felt better with the polyurethane bushings under strong acceleration. I heard monoball bushings were the way to go. I'm gonna try those soon.
If they aren't lubricated properly that will happen unfortunately. Overall I think the rtabs are the ones with the highest NVH increase. I have no experience with monoballs but I hear they are very good.
Yah poly ads NVH noise vibration harshness but it feels so good !! My e46 feels like a race car with all poly bushings 💯 I like the soft oem bushing but the performance that poly gives you is so worth it 💯🤷♂️car feels so solid around corners
Supposedly in 2024, I saw a video some guy put plumbers teflon tape and the squeeking stopped. I had St Sway bars on an import and it squeeked no matter what & on a Mercedes it squeeked. It's always the poly sway bar bushings. Try the teflon tape method and tell me if it works?
@sebastianstoian6233 Which locations? What car? And when do they clunk? Usually no, but the poly may amplify the sound of existing suspension issues in other locations.
Depends on the bushing. The inside is supposed to be lubricated on most of the AKG bushings. AKG says not to lubricate the outside. I did on most of them and haven't had any issues. It helps with squeaking.
I do hear a lot of rumble as you are going over any bumps, pretty must constantly during this video, any time the car is rolling. Is that due to the poly bushings, or does this model always sound like this?
The creaks and rattles are from the stiffer shock/spring setup paired with the cheap plastic interiors these cars are known for. Poly may add to this in some locations, but for the most part, it will come down to how well the shocks and springs can absorb the bumps in the road. I also had a lot of things in the car at the time so most of the noise is my stuff rattling in the door panels and glove box. I hope that answers your question 🙂
I have never heard of that but that might work! It is more than oem but it's not as harsh as a race car like some people describe. These roads are also awful.
What’s your opinion on engine, trans and diff poly bushings? I have coilovers and want less twisting during full throttle. Is it a good Idea to uppgrade?
Those are the 3 places that will create the most NVH. I have 75d diff in my car, they introduced a small whine as they are very stiff but not bad at all. Engine/trans will vibrate a lot at low engine speeds. Really it's car by car for those. And how often you drive it. If you do engine or trans make sure to do both so they are the same stiffness. You don't want to mix and match otherwise you risk money shifting. Personally on a weekend car I'd run all 3. For a car I put a lot of miles on I would do diff again but avoid engine/trans. Feel free to ask any other questions! Edit: I am not sure what car you have but you might want to try suspension too if you are getting twisting under acceleration. On the e36 I installed poly for the rear trailing arms which helped stiffen up the rear end a good deal when cornering or applying engine load.
@lietuviserikas In theory, if you mix and match them, there will be no issues in normal driving. However, in track or high performance conditions, specifically where there is a lot of power transfer (high rpm shifting, or sudden braking and downshifting), you are more likely to mis-shift or money shift. This is because your engine and transmission mounts are deflecting at differing rates, which will cause your shift linkage to not line up properly under load transfer. You want them to match in stiffness for this reason. On some cars, this can also cause bolts or mounts to snap since the engine and transmission are effectively tugging at each other.
Do you have a distinct whine coming from the rear as you increase speed. I was thinking solid subframe and differential bushings from SPL will I get this whine. ua-cam.com/video/cOSiVcOsEjU/v-deo.html The time frame where I hear it start is at 15 seconds in and starts at 30mph. Will I have to deal with this?
Yes and no. If you have a bad or worn differential, you will hear a whine. I do not have a whine on my car most of the time. One time, I removed the rear seat to diagnose the fuel pump, and I heard a very slight whine since it was acting as a sound barrier. But quiet otherwise. However, I have 75D poly in my subframe and diff. While it is technically solid from a movement standpoint, it still has some of the NVH dampening of poly that aluminum or various metal solids lack. Solid subframe will not usually cause diff whine, depending on the design of the car. Solid diff will run that chance higher. If you are bothered by it but still want solid, I would get a solid subframe bushing and a stiff poly diff bushing. Or frankly, don't get solid if NVH is a great concern. Poly will be close to the performance of solid without a lot of the drawback. What car do you have? And what is the intended use?
@@M-t3ch I have a Nissan 350z that will not be tracked or at the strip. I recently put in engine and Transmission polyurethane mounts and they are a little whiney but they need to settle in then they'll be good. But if the whine from the diff and sub metal bushings would be like the video then he'll no. That is why I was asking would it be like that?
@DragoMusivini I am unfamiliar with that platform specifically. But if I were in your shoes, I would not do solid diff bushings. Subframe, you'd probably not see any whine. However, you aren't going to see much performance benefit on the street over poly by running solid. Solid bushings are not a great idea in general if NVH is of concern. They transfer everything to you, whereas poly has some vibration dampening properties. TLDR: Go poly or rubber for the diff.
Looool wow. Dude is saying the poly bushings don't make a difference. And literally every bump in the road is like "bang......bang.......bang". Dude, I live in LA, we have the WORST streets, and my 98 M3 doesn't sound anything close to that banging.
The stiffer stock/spring setup will dictate ride quality. Also does not help that I had a lot of things in my interior rattling. I will further elaborate on this, I don't think I stated that there is no NVH increase. Simply that it is not as much of an NVH increase as some people will make it out to be.
@@M-t3ch I have a 98 M345 in silver / black, same exact car. I live in Hollywood, CA and the roads are not good. I've had poly FCABS, RTABS, and sperical Bearing RTABS. All of these severely changed the car and made it feel like I was driving a truck...not like a "BMW" at all. The fact that we can hear every crack in the road you're driving over as a bang or pop...it says a lot. Poly bushings really change the vehicle. Sure they help the car handle better, but the incredibe factory ride of the BMWs is gone. It is not a "little" NVH. It's quite a lot. I have to say, most people who want to daily their BMW will *not* like poly bushings.
@EnterTheBukti It's all about perspective. I wouldn't say this now rides like a truck, far from it. But you are right, it loses that suppleness that rubber offers. Poly in different locations will impact the ride quality differently. If ride quality is your only concern, then yes, you should not install poly. At this time, I also had heim joints in my lower rear control arms. Which made the rear much harsher over bumps. I since swapped to rubber and much prefer rubber in that location. I appreciate the counterpoint, though. I am going to delve into this topic further in a video series I am planning out and will get into specifics and characteristics of each bushing.
I just bought my e36 m3. The previous owner had Polyurethane rtab and it was really bad. I switched to OEM and no more squeaking, but the car felt better with the polyurethane bushings under strong acceleration. I heard monoball bushings were the way to go. I'm gonna try those soon.
If they aren't lubricated properly that will happen unfortunately. Overall I think the rtabs are the ones with the highest NVH increase. I have no experience with monoballs but I hear they are very good.
Yah poly ads NVH noise vibration harshness but it feels so good !! My e46 feels like a race car with all poly bushings 💯 I like the soft oem bushing but the performance that poly gives you is so worth it 💯🤷♂️car feels so solid around corners
Appreciate the video. Also jesus the condition of the roads are terrifying.
The roads are terrifying lol.
the rev hang is perfect for smooth driving/shifting
@@NemanjaGuitar It does have a small amount. I'm indifferent to it :)
Supposedly in 2024, I saw a video some guy put plumbers teflon tape and the squeeking stopped. I had St Sway bars on an import and it squeeked no matter what & on a Mercedes it squeeked. It's always the poly sway bar bushings. Try the teflon tape method and tell me if it works?
Are poly bushings supposed to clunk? Mine have been clunking for a few months but dont creak.
@sebastianstoian6233 Which locations? What car? And when do they clunk?
Usually no, but the poly may amplify the sound of existing suspension issues in other locations.
Are polt bushings supossed to be lubricated? If so, in the outside or the inside?
Depends on the bushing. The inside is supposed to be lubricated on most of the AKG bushings. AKG says not to lubricate the outside. I did on most of them and haven't had any issues. It helps with squeaking.
I do hear a lot of rumble as you are going over any bumps, pretty must constantly during this video, any time the car is rolling. Is that due to the poly bushings, or does this model always sound like this?
The creaks and rattles are from the stiffer shock/spring setup paired with the cheap plastic interiors these cars are known for.
Poly may add to this in some locations, but for the most part, it will come down to how well the shocks and springs can absorb the bumps in the road. I also had a lot of things in the car at the time so most of the noise is my stuff rattling in the door panels and glove box. I hope that answers your question 🙂
PTFE tape is the secret to the squeak. The amount of road noise and thunking going on in the video is a very big difference from oem.
I have never heard of that but that might work! It is more than oem but it's not as harsh as a race car like some people describe. These roads are also awful.
Looking at your roads you need a rally car 😳
@@jon7525 I cannot disagree lol.
What’s your opinion on engine, trans and diff poly bushings? I have coilovers and want less twisting during full throttle. Is it a good Idea to uppgrade?
Those are the 3 places that will create the most NVH. I have 75d diff in my car, they introduced a small whine as they are very stiff but not bad at all.
Engine/trans will vibrate a lot at low engine speeds. Really it's car by car for those. And how often you drive it. If you do engine or trans make sure to do both so they are the same stiffness. You don't want to mix and match otherwise you risk money shifting.
Personally on a weekend car I'd run all 3. For a car I put a lot of miles on I would do diff again but avoid engine/trans. Feel free to ask any other questions!
Edit: I am not sure what car you have but you might want to try suspension too if you are getting twisting under acceleration. On the e36 I installed poly for the rear trailing arms which helped stiffen up the rear end a good deal when cornering or applying engine load.
@@M-t3chhow will running poly engine mount and stock gearbox mounts cause a moneyshift? Its ok to mix them
@lietuviserikas In theory, if you mix and match them, there will be no issues in normal driving.
However, in track or high performance conditions, specifically where there is a lot of power transfer (high rpm shifting, or sudden braking and downshifting), you are more likely to mis-shift or money shift. This is because your engine and transmission mounts are deflecting at differing rates, which will cause your shift linkage to not line up properly under load transfer.
You want them to match in
stiffness for this reason. On some cars, this can also cause bolts or mounts to snap since the engine and transmission are effectively tugging at each other.
That’s a Radio On car 😅
Do you have a distinct whine coming from the rear as you increase speed. I was thinking solid subframe and differential bushings from SPL will I get this whine. ua-cam.com/video/cOSiVcOsEjU/v-deo.html The time frame where I hear it start is at 15 seconds in and starts at 30mph. Will I have to deal with this?
Yes and no. If you have a bad or worn differential, you will hear a whine. I do not have a whine on my car most of the time. One time, I removed the rear seat to diagnose the fuel pump, and I heard a very slight whine since it was acting as a sound barrier. But quiet otherwise.
However, I have 75D poly in my subframe and diff. While it is technically solid from a movement standpoint, it still has some of the NVH dampening of poly that aluminum or various metal solids lack.
Solid subframe will not usually cause diff whine, depending on the design of the car. Solid diff will run that chance higher. If you are bothered by it but still want solid, I would get a solid subframe bushing and a stiff poly diff bushing. Or frankly, don't get solid if NVH is a great concern. Poly will be close to the performance of solid without a lot of the drawback.
What car do you have? And what is the intended use?
@@M-t3ch I have a Nissan 350z that will not be tracked or at the strip. I recently put in engine and Transmission polyurethane mounts and they are a little whiney but they need to settle in then they'll be good. But if the whine from the diff and sub metal bushings would be like the video then he'll no. That is why I was asking would it be like that?
@DragoMusivini I am unfamiliar with that platform specifically. But if I were in your shoes, I would not do solid diff bushings. Subframe, you'd probably not see any whine. However, you aren't going to see much performance benefit on the street over poly by running solid.
Solid bushings are not a great idea in general if NVH is of concern. They transfer everything to you, whereas poly has some vibration dampening properties.
TLDR: Go poly or rubber for the diff.
@@M-t3ch I never use rubbers......lolololol.....anyways poly is the way to go then thanks.
You need new shocks and struts.
Why do you say that?
Looool wow. Dude is saying the poly bushings don't make a difference. And literally every bump in the road is like "bang......bang.......bang". Dude, I live in LA, we have the WORST streets, and my 98 M3 doesn't sound anything close to that banging.
The stiffer stock/spring setup will dictate ride quality. Also does not help that I had a lot of things in my interior rattling.
I will further elaborate on this, I don't think I stated that there is no NVH increase. Simply that it is not as much of an NVH increase as some people will make it out to be.
@@M-t3ch I have a 98 M345 in silver / black, same exact car. I live in Hollywood, CA and the roads are not good. I've had poly FCABS, RTABS, and sperical Bearing RTABS. All of these severely changed the car and made it feel like I was driving a truck...not like a "BMW" at all. The fact that we can hear every crack in the road you're driving over as a bang or pop...it says a lot. Poly bushings really change the vehicle. Sure they help the car handle better, but the incredibe factory ride of the BMWs is gone. It is not a "little" NVH. It's quite a lot. I have to say, most people who want to daily their BMW will *not* like poly bushings.
@EnterTheBukti It's all about perspective. I wouldn't say this now rides like a truck, far from it. But you are right, it loses that suppleness that rubber offers. Poly in different locations will impact the ride quality differently. If ride quality is your only concern, then yes, you should not install poly.
At this time, I also had heim joints in my lower rear control arms. Which made the rear much harsher over bumps. I since swapped to rubber and much prefer rubber in that location.
I appreciate the counterpoint, though. I am going to delve into this topic further in a video series I am planning out and will get into specifics and characteristics of each bushing.
Just did full AKG poly on my E36. FCABs, RTABs, Subframe, Diff. NVH is definitely increased a bit. Interior rattles a lot. It gets on my nerves