Steve, part of the magic of watching your projects comes from getting the job done beautifully with out Abom, Fenner or Rucker resources. No need to apologize! You show us how to do it in our shop. My shop looks more like yours then theirs. I love watching you work and enjoy your thought process.
You definitely have what it takes to keep us watching your whole video. You'd be surprised how many guys have told me they hit the "fast forward" while watching others videos! Your methods are a lot like mine in terms of how to get the job done based on the tools and or equipment you have, and the best part is the details...chamfering the holes does make a big difference.... good for you!! Again, chiming in late but hey you get another view which helps in the "big picture".... That wrench you called the "AVE" wrench, is commonly referred to as a "spud" wrench with us "Union Ironworkers"!!! The "wife" cameo at the end was GREAT!! Take care, Razor!
Loved this video. Very nice way to locate holes that are sort-of regular but not quite. And yes tap wrenches are essential. Flea market time. Even here in Alaska I have had good luck at thrift stores and estate sales.
Steve, I Love the way that you rewarded those of us that watched to the end. I was just thinking I had not seen your beautiful wife in way too long. Thank You. Gary 75-Year-Old Home Shop Machinist.
Gary Jones Thank you very much Gary! My wife Noel is working on her own crafting youtube channel as we speak, so you may get to see her more often. I will announce on my channel when she has her channel up and running. Thanks again Gary!
You have come up with a very reasonable solution for your problem. I've been inspired with the way you solved it. The scrapping tutorial makes me want to try it. The use of bolts to locate is an idea I'll save if I run into a similar situation. Very nice.
Hill Top Machine Works Yes it was, he's a nice guy. He watched my viewer mail where I recived the tool post and he had some just sitting on the shelf and figured I could use them. Sure was nice of him👍
No big tap wrench use 2 spanners instead and some wire to lock them together. Works quite well for this job. Otherwise some flat bar, drill a hole in it and weld 2 flat bars across the bottom to make a custom made tap holder, or just mill a slot into the bar the appropriate spacing to make a custom spanner.
Hey Steve, yet another great video. For future reference the way I was taught in my apprenticeship to locate a hole on a manual mill is very similar to your setup. We take a .5 inch hardened dowel and turn a 20 degree taper on it. Then Chuck it up and actually put that in the threaded hole. It seems to work well....so it eliminates the need for a bolt
THE IRONWORKER I use 29.5 also. Mrpete talked about that long ago when I was still learning to cut threads😃. I also use the "dash board indicator " so I can judge my cut depth without the math👍. Nice to see you Ironworker.
It is So Hard to stop your self from just grabbing at the swarf. Have to pull my self up and Grab the Pliers :) I do like that little Cutter that you have for counter sinking
David Fullston Even though I know better I still do it from time to time. Bad habits are hard to break😃. I have paid for before by cutting my thumb to the bone before 😲.
Just finishes watching Adam Booth's (Abom79) latest video "SNS 201" and it appears you are one a lucky guy. If you don't know it, Adam is sending you some additional tool holders that fit your quick change tool post. Very cool.
Nice job and I hear you about the cost of tools I've made a large, medium, and small(er) tap handles for large taps. They are good lathe projects and your shaper would make the "V" cuts with ease. Maybe another project to add to your list, if it's like mine its a never ending one.
Sometimes I take a center that I have trued up in the lathe and use it as a tap guide in the chuck. A little down pressure on the quill with a weight will usually start and keep the tap straight. Also you can use two open end wrenches on the tap opposite each other if need be. I as you don't always have the tool I need so I must improvise. Tool room quality repair if you ask me..........
Great work. You kept saying that this is not the best way to do this. I like Abom’s saying that there are a hundred ways to do this but this is my way. You did some pretty work with what you had. That’s all that matters.
in the absence of a DRO use a one inch travel dial indicator to set the depth reading off the table and mounted on the quill with a magnet...saves allot of work and gives good accuracy...stop feeding periodically to break the chip and stop it from wrapping up on the drill
really well done, i have to admit that i would perhaps drill the holes tiny bit oversize to prevent locating each one :) but you did it the better way . its a pleasure to watch your videos / content . and i am looking forward to the moment adam`s present arrives and you can finally put som more tools in dedicated holders . Keep going like that, atb
James White Thanks, it's the only way I could think of to transfer them relatively accurately. It worked but I was not 100% sure about it. The clearance drills was minamal so they needed to be close to fit.
Bravo amigo! ! ! Amazing work. Thank you for your time and effort in putting together the work and video editing for the entire world to watch. I was very impressed with your scraping technique. Has your harbor freight bandsaw motor burn up yet, lol? I am just wondering. When mine did I fabbed up a motor bracket and pulley setup and has been chugging along with an old swamp cooler motor. You're awesome. If I could, I'd give you 2 thumbs up!
Rolando Escobar Well, thank you! I think your awesome for watching 😃 Motor is still kicking along on the saw without any problems. Hope it continues to be reliable.
Much better than what it was and a great job given what you had. I could also hear AvE, firstly with the out of focus camera "insert that infamous phrase here" and the 2nd one you made mention too regarding the wrench "insert that other phrase here". Haha, nice vid mate!
I have seen a video machinist of good reputation use a hook to remove the “razor tornado” while the cutter was turning, but in retrospect I guess the hook could hang and create a “razor and hook tornado” . But it looked efficient and safe when I saw it. Hmmm.
I highly recommend getting rid of your drill press and getting a mill/drill. It's not a Bridgeport but it's a BIG IMPROVEMENT over a drill press. I still have a drill press but I know it hasn't been run this year, probably not last year either. They are cheap on Ebay. (and you can slow it down)
Its Robrenz not robronz. I loved the subliminal messaging. :-) Cranking that knee up and down keeps you in good shape! I like to drill a1/32 over nominal to allow clearance on clearanced bolt holes. Bolts hold based off torque not shear so they don't need to be a locating feature.
bcbloc02 I would get Robins shout out wrong 😒. That sucks , but thanks for catching it Brian. I need to get that fixed. The canted bolts gave me trouble but all things considered it worked out. Thanks for stopping by Brain👍
Threaded fasteners should never be in shear. If the joined parts have to be exactly located to each other, then use dowel pins. Never use threaded components to locate parts to one another. A threaded fastener is just a spring clamping the parts together.. that's why you sometimes see torque specifications that give the required stretch of the bolt or stud to insure the needed clamping force is being generated. It is bad practice to drill holes for clearance of threaded fasteners without sufficient clearance. It makes part assembly a real annoyance. Also,when tapping the holes for the fasteners, remember that a 100% thread is only 10-15% stronger than a 75% thread, but requires twice the power to tap... and a 50% thread will pull the fastener apart before the threads will strip out. The only time a 100% thread is warranted is when tapping thin material.
Am I posting under a different name? lol They do make a fastener called a huckbolt which performs kind of like a rivet and they do offer some enhanced shear performance but most applications standard torqued bolts are more then good enough for the joint.
Thanks, These bolt holes were drilled with plenty of clearance, The issue I had with alignment was with the original repair and the canted holes drilled in the compound. I was not trying to accurately locate the top plate on the compound. The top plate I made was oversize so I can come back in and machine the front and sides at a later date to match. Looking back I should have drilled the toolpost holes a bit over size for easier tapping. Hind sight is 20 20.. Thanks for watching and thanks for the advice Aceroadholder
Steve, I do not want to come across as a "safety sally", but happen to know from experience that safety is important. You have a responsibility as a you tuber to your viewers which includes showing how to work safely. Pulling swarf from a drill bit with your fingers is not the way to go. This swarf is razor sharp and can cause injury. Please think safe work practises in future vids.By the way I am enjoying the videos, please keep them coming.
abrahamscall I show that is a bad idea. But I also show what 99% of folks do and thats grab at the chips. I say its a bad idea and I get a safe tool to remove them. I completely agree with you about working safe. Thanks for watching. I agree 👍
That's coming together nicely Steve. Will you mod the original four way post to fit the new compound ? Be handy for a standard set of tools all preset ready to go. All the best mate. Mat
lookcreations I thought about making it fit but never considered loading it for common operations. Good idea Matt, Thanks for stopping in, it's always good to see you👍
Hey Steve, love your videos and hope you keep making them. I was wondering why you did not design that piece to sit in the grove of the compound? Wouldn't that have been more rigid than having to rely only on the strength of the bolts? I am no machinist and maybe you explained this is the video and I missed it. Just wondered though...🤔
G'day Steve. I wonder why you went to all the trouble to hand scrape the mating surfaces, considering it is bolted down with 9 substantial bolts and is not a running surface, wouldn't machining the surfaces on the mill or shaper been adequate finish. Also the large tap wrench would make a good project Anyhow nice work, Peter
just one remark if you had placed the wholes for the stud just a tiny bit further to the side you would have been able to lower the toolholder a bit further comes in handy when using a tool that is to high to get on center
I've got a great big 2 lb slab of Arkansas translucent with one flat side if I could find someone to cut it I would send you a piece. I've been looking for a small square lapping Stone for a couple of years now and I can't find a good one.
I know the feeling but having to make custom tooling I got over it. Boss started to chew me out for modifying tooling so showed the cost of the one we needed twice the price of the one we had. Then asked if I could continue
Hey Steve, Greg the bricklayer in So. Ohio here. Is there any way to cut that 3/4 tap down on top and drill a center for it? I realize you'd have to anneal the very end first; just an uneducated thought. If I see any size tap handle at our local flea market I'll pick it/them up and make them your very own. I've got one for normal tapping (you can't have it!) so I know they are around to be had. I like your project and both videos, Greg.
Charles Compton LOL, thanks. I hit the top of this tap with a file to see how hard it was and it for sure would need to be softened before you could drill it. I thought about it but ended up just leaving it be. I never leave the house so I usually never get the flea market deals😃
Yikes! I would have made a tap wrench before threading that 3/4" hole... I've snapped one off like that (a starrett) before... Way ugly (shudder)... But good job improvising.
I just about lost two fingers almost a month ago just casually swiping away a 304 ribbon from getting tangled in mine apron on my lathe the truck picked it up with my fingers hit it and it ripped through my middle and ring finger dug into the bone and almost amputated my fingers it's most painful injury I've ever suffered I can no longer feel the tips of my fingers I have no movement in one of them at all ! A simple little swipe of the hand thinking it's innocent who is turned out to be the biggest mistake of my life hobby career. The ribbon wasn't even attached to the workpiece it was just laying there but it was picked up somehow I'm the truck. It's horrifying when I think of it happening I have flash bags of the pain. Never take any chances I know I won't anymore
7/16-14 is an odd size. We barely use it on anything in industry. The factory I work in hardly uses it for anything. There are only two machines I can think of in the whole factory that use it.
zachariah liles I don't think I have ever ran into it before. I use 1/2 -13 or 3/8 -16 all the time. I really like the 7/16-14 and may use it on some other projects.👍
Steve Summers. There isn't anything wrong with it. Just saying it's not very common in industry these days. And it seems to be challenging to find taps and fasteners for it. Out of the hundreds of taps I have in my box, I have one 7/16 NC and one 7/16 NF tap. They're in their own special containers in my tap drawer. No one is allowed to borrow them.
Man's not afraid of some work. Tapping those with wrenches, but use what you got.
Nice job Steve.
Steve, part of the magic of watching your projects comes from getting the job done beautifully with out Abom, Fenner or Rucker resources. No need to apologize! You show us how to do it in our shop. My shop looks more like yours then theirs. I love watching you work and enjoy your thought process.
Green Range Thank you, I do the best with what I have just like every other normal shop guy out there👍
You definitely have what it takes to keep us watching your whole video.
You'd be surprised how many guys have told me they hit the "fast forward" while watching others videos!
Your methods are a lot like mine in terms of how to get the job done based on the tools and or equipment you have, and the best part is the details...chamfering the holes does make a big difference.... good for you!!
Again, chiming in late but hey you get another view which helps in the "big picture"....
That wrench you called the "AVE" wrench, is commonly referred to as a "spud" wrench with us "Union Ironworkers"!!!
The "wife" cameo at the end was GREAT!!
Take care,
Razor!
Interesting watching the older videos after seeing your more recent work. Amazing how far you've come in such a short time!
Looks great Steve. You can take the sections left over from the bolts you shortened and make ya some 7/16 transfer screws for future use
Loved this video. Very nice way to locate holes that are sort-of regular but not quite. And yes tap wrenches are essential. Flea market time. Even here in Alaska I have had good luck at thrift stores and estate sales.
You could be a Marine, they way you can adapt and overcome. Looks great. Hope it gives you many years of great service.
Oh man, I'm not the type to tell a man his business, but you really frightened me grabbing onto the drill chuck while wearing a ring
Steve,
I Love the way that you rewarded those of us that watched to the end. I was just thinking I had not seen your beautiful wife in way too long. Thank You.
Gary
75-Year-Old Home Shop Machinist.
Gary Jones Thank you very much Gary! My wife Noel is working on her own crafting youtube channel as we speak, so you may get to see her more often. I will announce on my channel when she has her channel up and running.
Thanks again Gary!
You do a great job with what you have. I think it makes you a better machinist!
John McDonald Thank you John👍. Good to see you
You have come up with a very reasonable solution for your problem. I've been inspired with the way you solved it. The scrapping tutorial makes me want to try it. The use of bolts to locate is an idea I'll save if I run into a similar situation. Very nice.
It was nice of Abom to hook you up with another tool post and some holders.
Hill Top Machine Works Yes it was, he's a nice guy. He watched my viewer mail where I recived the tool post and he had some just sitting on the shelf and figured I could use them. Sure was nice of him👍
No big tap wrench use 2 spanners instead and some wire to lock them together. Works quite well for this job. Otherwise some flat bar, drill a hole in it and weld 2 flat bars across the bottom to make a custom made tap holder, or just mill a slot into the bar the appropriate spacing to make a custom spanner.
SeanBZA what a brilliant idea!
You have traveled a million miles in a short time ! Great job .. THUMBS UP !! Looks and works AWESOME ..
ShawnMrFixitlee Thank you! It has been alot of work. Filming makes everything take twice as long. This video took over 6 hours just to edit.
Nice work, can see pride in all you do keep up the quality and viewership (is that a word) will continue to climb.
Nothing broke - it's done. All downhill from here. Well played Steve.
_Dan_
House of Broken Dobbs Things _ Thanks Dan👍
Hey Steve, yet another great video. For future reference the way I was taught in my apprenticeship to locate a hole on a manual mill is very similar to your setup. We take a .5 inch hardened dowel and turn a 20 degree taper on it. Then Chuck it up and actually put that in the threaded hole. It seems to work well....so it eliminates the need for a bolt
Anthony Jones yeah that may have worked better than what I did, it would have put me directly over the hole👍
Steve Summers just here to swap ideas and learn.
I saw where Adam Booth is going to help. Can't wait to see your eyes for that one!!
Clyde Decker LOL, Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it 👍
Nice job Steve, great improvement and I love the attention to detail, cheers!
howder1951 Thank you!
Hey Steve my compound is all ways set at 29.5 deg . Because I'm all ways cutting some kind of threads . Nice score on the tool post
THE IRONWORKER I use 29.5 also. Mrpete talked about that long ago when I was still learning to cut threads😃. I also use the "dash board indicator " so I can judge my cut depth without the math👍. Nice to see you Ironworker.
It is So Hard to stop your self from just grabbing at the swarf. Have to pull my self up and Grab the Pliers :) I do like that little Cutter that you have for counter sinking
David Fullston Even though I know better I still do it from time to time. Bad habits are hard to break😃. I have paid for before by cutting my thumb to the bone before 😲.
Greetings colleague, excellent work, I shake hands firmly.
top job, glad to see it coming back, it will be even more rigid than original!
Nice , Very Nice ! I Was Pleased To See Robin Give You A Shout Out ...Best Regards
Stephen Wagar Robin is a genuine good guy.👍 I messed up his shout out by spelling his channel name wrong😕. Thanks for watching
The Only Man Who Doesnt Make A Mistake , Is A Man Who Does Nothing.And Just Remember " If It Was Easy - Anybody Could Do It ...Best Regards
Just finishes watching Adam Booth's (Abom79) latest video "SNS 201" and it appears you are one a lucky guy. If you don't know it, Adam is sending you some additional tool holders that fit your quick change tool post. Very cool.
Steve Hansen LOL, I seen it👍. That was very nice of him, Adam is a genuine nice guy.
Thanks for watching 👊
Nice work Steve!! love your videos
congratulations on the tool post from Abom79.
Great job Steve
Don't tell me you like flat bottoms,
Great video.
Nice job and I hear you about the cost of tools I've made a large, medium, and small(er) tap handles for large taps. They are good lathe projects and your shaper would make the "V" cuts with ease. Maybe another project to add to your list, if it's like mine its a never ending one.
Nice improvisation , you might consider doweling the mounting
Sometimes I take a center that I have trued up in the lathe and use it as a tap guide in the chuck. A little down pressure on the quill with a weight will usually start and keep the tap straight. Also you can use two open end wrenches on the tap opposite each other if need be. I as you don't always have the tool I need so I must improvise. Tool room quality repair if you ask me..........
Great work. You kept saying that this is not the best way to do this. I like Abom’s saying that there are a hundred ways to do this but this is my way. You did some pretty work with what you had. That’s all that matters.
Hammer0f Thor I agree, I will use that👍
in the absence of a DRO use a one inch travel dial indicator to set the depth reading off the table and mounted on the quill with a magnet...saves allot of work and gives good accuracy...stop feeding periodically to break the chip and stop it from wrapping up on the drill
Love it Steve great work mate
really well done, i have to admit that i would perhaps drill the holes tiny bit oversize to prevent locating each one :) but you did it the better way .
its a pleasure to watch your videos / content . and i am looking forward to the moment adam`s present arrives and you can finally put som more tools in dedicated holders . Keep going like that, atb
Michael Schnock Thank you, I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Great job Steve on the idea for drilling the holes 🖒🖒well done great video 🤘
James White Thanks, it's the only way I could think of to transfer them relatively accurately. It worked but I was not 100% sure about it. The clearance drills was minamal so they needed to be close to fit.
Steve Summers as you said you use what you have 🖒🖒
Looking good. I didn't realize it was going to be so much work for you. Its been a good project video series. Can't wait to see how it works.
Johnson Mechanical Thanks, I have enjoyed the project and am not worried about the work. Thanks again, I really appreciate it 👍
I see Adam has more tool holders. That's awesome, looks like this peoject is really starting to come together.
Great work Steve
great job
Bravo amigo! ! ! Amazing work. Thank you for your time and effort in putting together the work and video editing for the entire world to watch. I was very impressed with your scraping technique. Has your harbor freight bandsaw motor burn up yet, lol? I am just wondering. When mine did I fabbed up a motor bracket and pulley setup and has been chugging along with an old swamp cooler motor.
You're awesome. If I could, I'd give you 2 thumbs up!
Rolando Escobar Well, thank you! I think your awesome for watching 😃
Motor is still kicking along on the saw without any problems. Hope it continues to be reliable.
I'm moving on to the next video to see if you added a detent to your setup! Looks like every 15 degrees should be doable.
Much better than what it was and a great job given what you had. I could also hear AvE, firstly with the out of focus camera "insert that infamous phrase here" and the 2nd one you made mention too regarding the wrench "insert that other phrase here". Haha, nice vid mate!
What ever it take to get the job done Steve ,many ways to skin a rabbit lol Good job .
Nice mount.
Randy Richard In The Shop Thank you Randy, it's good to see you. Psssst, you know where a guy, not me of course could score some white lead?😒
LOL The boss said so, so you better do it. :-)
Daniel Kruger You better believe it.👍
Great job looking good keep it up.
I have seen a video machinist of good reputation use a hook to remove the “razor tornado” while the cutter was turning, but in retrospect I guess the hook could hang and create a “razor and hook tornado” . But it looked efficient and safe when I saw it. Hmmm.
9/16 is also a great size when 1/2 is not strong enough and 5/8 is too big . like the vids :>)
Nice job
I highly recommend getting rid of your drill press and getting a mill/drill. It's not a Bridgeport but it's a BIG IMPROVEMENT over a drill press. I still have a drill press but I know it hasn't been run this year, probably not last year either. They are cheap on Ebay. (and you can slow it down)
One thing is for sure Steve, you didn't under-engineer it. That is a beefy chunk of metal. Should make for a rigid setup on your lathe.
grntitan1 Agreed! LOL, in order to get the proper tool height it just had to be that thick.😃
Its Robrenz not robronz. I loved the subliminal messaging. :-) Cranking that knee up and down keeps you in good shape! I like to drill a1/32 over nominal to allow clearance on clearanced bolt holes. Bolts hold based off torque not shear so they don't need to be a locating feature.
bcbloc02 I would get Robins shout out wrong 😒. That sucks , but thanks for catching it Brian. I need to get that fixed. The canted bolts gave me trouble but all things considered it worked out. Thanks for stopping by Brain👍
some connections are slip critical but on others the bolts can be in shear right? can you explain which kind of bolting is going on here?
Threaded fasteners should never be in shear. If the joined parts have to be exactly located to each other, then use dowel pins. Never use threaded components to locate parts to one another.
A threaded fastener is just a spring clamping the parts together.. that's why you sometimes see torque specifications that give the required stretch of the bolt or stud to insure the needed clamping force is being generated.
It is bad practice to drill holes for clearance of threaded fasteners without sufficient clearance. It makes part assembly a real annoyance.
Also,when tapping the holes for the fasteners, remember that a 100% thread is only 10-15% stronger than a 75% thread, but requires twice the power to tap... and a 50% thread will pull the fastener apart before the threads will strip out. The only time a 100% thread is warranted
is when tapping thin material.
Am I posting under a different name? lol They do make a fastener called a huckbolt which performs kind of like a rivet and they do offer some enhanced shear performance but most applications standard torqued bolts are more then good enough for the joint.
Thanks, These bolt holes were drilled with plenty of clearance, The issue I had with alignment was with the original repair and the canted holes drilled in the compound. I was not trying to accurately locate the top plate on the compound. The top plate I made was oversize so I can come back in and machine the front and sides at a later date to match. Looking back I should have drilled the toolpost holes a bit over size for easier tapping. Hind sight is 20 20.. Thanks for watching and thanks for the advice Aceroadholder
Looks good. Careful with the fingers, you need them. ;-)
very nice work
Steve, I do not want to come across as a "safety sally", but happen to know from experience that safety is important. You have a responsibility as a you tuber to your viewers which includes showing how to work safely. Pulling swarf from a drill bit with your fingers is not the way to go. This swarf is razor sharp and can cause injury. Please think safe work practises in future vids.By the way I am enjoying the videos, please keep them coming.
abrahamscall I show that is a bad idea. But I also show what 99% of folks do and thats grab at the chips. I say its a bad idea and I get a safe tool to remove them. I completely agree with you about working safe. Thanks for watching. I agree 👍
Thanks for reading my comment Steve, glad we are on the same page...God bless.
That's coming together nicely Steve. Will you mod the original four way post to fit the new compound ? Be handy for a standard set of tools all preset ready to go.
All the best mate.
Mat
lookcreations I thought about making it fit but never considered loading it for common operations. Good idea Matt, Thanks for stopping in, it's always good to see you👍
Ya build it you got a lathe and a drill press that's all ya need to make it and some scraps of steel ya got laying around. -- OLD TIMER
Hey Steve, love your videos and hope you keep making them. I was wondering why you did not design that piece to sit in the grove of the compound? Wouldn't that have been more rigid than having to rely only on the strength of the bolts? I am no machinist and maybe you explained this is the video and I missed it. Just wondered though...🤔
for the countersink, what about removing most of the material with a drill bit, then just squaring off the bottom with the other tool?
Adds another operation to the job and slows it down even more
DSCKy I have done that in the past and it works fine but the endmill I used was the proper OD and it kept me from having another machining operation.
True, but might reduce the rats nest that was collecting on that tool?
Nice work!👍🏻
MCEngineeringInc Thank you, 👍
G'day Steve. I wonder why you went to all the trouble to hand scrape the mating surfaces, considering it is bolted down with 9 substantial bolts and is not a running surface, wouldn't machining the surfaces on the mill or shaper been adequate finish. Also the large tap wrench would make a good project Anyhow nice work, Peter
PGS Hi Peter, a machined surface would have been more than good enough, I had never scraped steel before and wanted to try it.
Steve don't sweat the hole positioning ........
It's more than adequate for government work man.
Cheers from downunder
Eric
just one remark
if you had placed the wholes for the stud just a tiny bit further to the side you would have been able to lower the toolholder a bit
further
comes in handy when using a tool that is to high to get on center
I've got a great big 2 lb slab of Arkansas translucent with one flat side if I could find someone to cut it I would send you a piece. I've been looking for a small square lapping Stone for a couple of years now and I can't find a good one.
I watch AvE - I know what you needed to say, even if its not out loud :)
vizionthing I try to watch my mouth. The auto focus on most cameras would make a preacher cuss😃
I have made botting taps the same way or used broken taps to make them.
Y Pop Yeah it works fine, I just hate to walk to the grinder with a brand new tap😃
I know the feeling but having to make custom tooling I got over it. Boss started to chew me out for modifying tooling so showed the cost of the one we needed twice the price of the one we had. Then asked if I could continue
Looks familiar. Intake manifold bolts?
Do you have a super magnet to get the splinters out of your fingers? : )
how about putting rubber oo-rings in over the top of the bolts and this will stop crap getting in there, just a thought
dan greeves I thought about filling them with silicone? 🤔
Remember that the most common silicone cures by acetic acid. If you wouldn't put vinegar in the thing, use a 'neutral' curing silicone instead!
Awesome video Steve. Whats the Baldor motor on your workbench used for?
Brandon Tscheschlog It is for sharpening my scraper blade
Do you not need to chamfer or deburr the hole down in the counter bore?
I love the bolts you used! Are they 12-point or ''triple square''?
Lite Roadie 12 point 7/16-14 NC👍
Nice!
Hey Steve, Greg the bricklayer in So. Ohio here. Is there any way to cut that 3/4 tap down on top and drill a center for it? I realize you'd have to anneal the very end first; just an uneducated thought. If I see any size tap handle at our local flea market I'll pick it/them up and make them your very own. I've got one for normal tapping (you can't have it!) so I know they are around to be had. I like your project and both videos, Greg.
Charles Compton LOL, thanks. I hit the top of this tap with a file to see how hard it was and it for sure would need to be softened before you could drill it. I thought about it but ended up just leaving it be. I never leave the house so I usually never get the flea market deals😃
Get Adam Booth to send you a tap wrench. He has them hanging on the wall.
all you need to do now is make a load of tool holders you just cant have enough
Yikes! I would have made a tap wrench before threading that 3/4" hole... I've snapped one off like that (a starrett) before... Way ugly (shudder)... But good job improvising.
Make a tap wrench !
Look up transfer screws. That would have made laying those holes out much easier.
Jeremy Thompson I know them well👍 Thanks Jeremy
Steve Summers awesome man! Your videos are great keep it up!
Cutting oil would help 😂
"if you're squeamish you can just look away" hahahaaaha
Josh Walker I often want to turn my head away but it's hard when your the one doing the work 😃
If it's not worth overkilling, it's not worth doing ;)
Nathan Davey Agreed 👍
How come you only put nine holes in?
Casting was thin and it wouldn't have held more than a thread or two.
Why only used 4 bolts on one side?
T.R. RACKLEY one hole in the rear was not usable due to the compound being thin.
ok thanks
👍
I just about lost two fingers almost a month ago just casually swiping away a 304 ribbon from getting tangled in mine apron on my lathe the truck picked it up with my fingers hit it and it ripped through my middle and ring finger dug into the bone and almost amputated my fingers it's most painful injury I've ever suffered I can no longer feel the tips of my fingers I have no movement in one of them at all !
A simple little swipe of the hand thinking it's innocent who is turned out to be the biggest mistake of my life hobby career. The ribbon wasn't even attached to the workpiece it was just laying there but it was picked up somehow I'm the truck. It's horrifying when I think of it happening I have flash bags of the pain. Never take any chances I know I won't anymore
7/16-14 is an odd size. We barely use it on anything in industry. The factory I work in hardly uses it for anything. There are only two machines I can think of in the whole factory that use it.
zachariah liles I don't think I have ever ran into it before. I use 1/2 -13 or 3/8 -16 all the time. I really like the 7/16-14 and may use it on some other projects.👍
Steve Summers. There isn't anything wrong with it. Just saying it's not very common in industry these days. And it seems to be challenging to find taps and fasteners for it. Out of the hundreds of taps I have in my box, I have one 7/16 NC and one 7/16 NF tap. They're in their own special containers in my tap drawer. No one is allowed to borrow them.
I run into it on older farm machinery.
It's robrenz not robronz. Precision matters in spelling too. ;)
Merrill Ballantyne lol, yeah I noticed that.
Tap handle that is
Really bad tapping !