Also oil on top of sparkplugs is usually sparkplug tube seals, under rocker arms is a small rubber seal that seals oil out of sparkplugs tube. If sparkplug tube is wet, it's sparkplug tube seals. If it's wet sparkplug at the threads into the engine combustion chamber, then it could be oil rings or valve stem seals. Im diagnosing my ring now or valve stem seals. I did lap my valves but I fear it's the piston rings
Wow, great video! I've got much oil leaking into one of my spark plug wells, and have already changed my valve cover gasket and spark plug o rings myself last year. I was told changing the piston rings was the next step, and I wanted to see if it was something I feel comfortable doing myself. This looks well above my capabilities, so I appreciate the heads up.
Great video, but for someone like myself who is not a mechanic or knows nothing of motors. A voice over or instructions on exactly what you’re doing STEP-BY-STEP would’ve been massive helpful! Thank you again; Just quick pointer to maybe help other first time UA-camr’s
Thank you for the fine work you did. I wish that you are my professional mechanic Hard to find a competent technician these days, they only care for easy money and cut corners! Maybe It’s safer to send you a ticket from TX to work on my cars, many thanks 🙏
men I been looking for some info videos how to do take the engine apart, for my Honda and ford truck. This video you made, made it look easy asf thank you.
I certainly did learn something and really appreciate the video and the time you put into it. With the greatest respect may I ask, are you schooled in motor mechanics or self taught? I'm considering doing a compression ring and valve stem seal replacement on a G13BB engine, however I've yet to do any head off works and I'm a little hesitant. I'm somewhat "self" taught, with help from the internet and friends. I have done braking and suspension works, alternator replacement and of course regular servicing but I can't shake the sense that this is far more involved, am I right? Are there far more detail to be aware of? Of course I would be undertaking these with proper space and tooling as well as the full workshop manual for the engine. Again,any thanks for your take on this ✌️
Thank you! I taught myself, just lots of researching online. This was my first time working on a car engine. I had worked on 2 stroke engines before tho. I'd just jump into it , make sure u got all the correct info on what needs to be done. And triple check the manual as u go to make sure u doing the steps correctly. Once u get stuck in everything seems pretty basic to do. Least it did for me 😁😁 thanks for watching 🤙
Did you machined the head before replacing it ? A friend told when there aluminum head right after you lose the screws it will get twisted just a question I bought a f23a1 and I’m trying to get it rebuild but I want to learn aswell
Thank you looking at replacing my vw vr6 rings as it is smokey now after 200k and medium tuned, iv always wanted a honda .and iwas wondering if i needed to remove the pistons i think this answers my question,,😊
Hopefully the poster of this video answers this question. I rebuilt my engine with everything new....except for pistons and rings bc I was intimidated about gap and issues of damaging my cylinder walls. So I honed them and cleaned pistons and rings to be super clean with a ultrasonic cleaner. They came out looking brand new. However after running car, cylinder 2 is burning and leaking oil. All other cylinders are dry and working well. Compression good on all 4 cylinders. No leaks. Block tested with no leaks. But I have a feeling my 2nd cylinder oil ring is failing. Same symptoms I had before I did this rebuild. I did hone cylinders lightly to get new cross hatching but it clearly didn't fix this cylinders issue. So I'm going to try this repair with new rings and gaping it and following the manual. My question is, did you have a oil fouled sparkplug and oil in combustion chamber? Or did you fix this bc you had compression ring failure? And did this fix last you a while?
Yes spark plug was oily both sides. I first replaced the rocker cover seals and valve stem seals. That stopped oil in the spark plug. But would still burn oil. So I then replaced the rings. When I took them apart the oil holes on the piston were blocked. Which probably led the oil rings to fail. I cleaned it all up then put back together. And defo hone it if new rings. Yes I checked ring gap and it was within spec
The engine ran great but I didn't hone it. So rings didn't seal as good but it never burnt enough oil to have to top it up between oil changes. I also done the same on a couple of engines now but with honing cylinder walls. And they are both running perfect still and one is my daily
My car, a bmw x3 2.0 petrol, uses 1 liter of oil on 30 km. It doesn't smoke blue when I start it when the engine is cold, nor when braking hard when downshifting, so I don't think the valve seals are the culprit. I see that there is more and more blue-grey smoke as the engine warms up, and it smokes blue when I step on the gas pedal when idling and especially when accelerating after idling. I have had the car at the workshop for an engine check and they found no faults with the crankcase ventilation and the compression was good and equal on all cylinders. This engine has been run too hot once by the previous owner, so I suspect that the oil rings may be worn/damaged so they are the cause of the high oil consumption. The oil rings may be bad even if the compression is good?
yeah mine was burning oil while still having good compression. it was mostly because of the oil rings and also the valve stem seals were leaking slightly also
Howdy. I have a new-to-me 1998 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, automatic, 3.3L VG33E 4th VIN digit "A" motor, made 10/1997. It has one or more bad piston wrist pins, and a confirmed bad crankshaft due to excessive bearing failures from oil loss. Does anyone know if the pistons in a 1996-2004 Pathfinders, QX4, Frontier, or Xterras can be removed and reinstalled through the bottom of the motor (oil pan), with the motor still installed? I also have a bad crank so I have to have it removed and machined too. The rest of the motor is clean, no oil burning, and low miles (165,000). I hate to swap it for an unknown possible problem motor if I can do it this way instead. I haven't been able to find anyone online who has accomplished this, but maybe it's not possible due to clearance or whatever. Do ya know, or take a guess if ya been under one like this? Thanks much!
Is fhere any reason why I couldnt do this through the bottom of the block without removing head? Just did the head gasket dont feel like doing it again lol. Car wasnt burning oil as bad before idk why it is now. Always consumed some but had it in the coolant before. D17a1
I didn't do it in this video because I still had grooves on my cylinder walls. But u may have to hone the cylinder walls if u can't see/feel the crosshatch pattern on them
That’s a valve cover gasket failure. The D series engines use grommets that sit above the spark plug wells. When those fail oil will drop on top from the crank case. Hate to say it, but you didn’t have to do all this work. Especially if the cylinders all held compression.
Arg, if you make a video titled replacing piston rings don't fast forward through the one part of the video where you are actually doing this and then not explain what you are doing to fit the pistons back in! What is clocking them mean?
Hi,I have Honda Odessy 2016 EX model and has 212,000 miles on it and cylinder one has a piston ring licking that’s what the dealer told me so would you fix it for me I will pay you for that. Please let me know with your contact number and we can schedule in your time, thank you so much.
Good video, way more involved than I was hoping, but this is a really clear demo
Also oil on top of sparkplugs is usually sparkplug tube seals, under rocker arms is a small rubber seal that seals oil out of sparkplugs tube. If sparkplug tube is wet, it's sparkplug tube seals. If it's wet sparkplug at the threads into the engine combustion chamber, then it could be oil rings or valve stem seals. Im diagnosing my ring now or valve stem seals. I did lap my valves but I fear it's the piston rings
Wow, great video! I've got much oil leaking into one of my spark plug wells, and have already changed my valve cover gasket and spark plug o rings myself last year. I was told changing the piston rings was the next step, and I wanted to see if it was something I feel comfortable doing myself. This looks well above my capabilities, so I appreciate the heads up.
Dude same I came here thinking just take the covers off and they are right there lol how wrong I was
Piston rings would have nothing to do with oil in the spark plug wells
Great video, but for someone like myself who is not a mechanic or knows nothing of motors. A voice over or instructions on exactly what you’re doing STEP-BY-STEP would’ve been massive helpful!
Thank you again;
Just quick pointer to maybe help other first time UA-camr’s
Thank you for the fine work you did. I wish that you are my professional mechanic
Hard to find a competent technician these days, they only care for easy money and cut corners!
Maybe It’s safer to send you a ticket from TX to work on my cars, many thanks 🙏
I wish I was working on this easy engine lmao
Top video. Thanks mate. I appreciate the time you took to put it together.
So sorry to see you had to take the engine out again, I hate it when that happens!
Its all learning!! :)
What happened?? That made you have to dig again?
I thought doing just valve seals would sort the oil burning. But it turned out it was also the rings.
men I been looking for some info videos how to do take the engine apart, for my Honda and ford truck. This video you made, made it look easy asf thank you.
Great thanks for watching mate ♥️
I would have put some extra piston oil return holes and made those ones bigger.
I certainly did learn something and really appreciate the video and the time you put into it.
With the greatest respect may I ask, are you schooled in motor mechanics or self taught?
I'm considering doing a compression ring and valve stem seal replacement on a G13BB engine, however I've yet to do any head off works and I'm a little hesitant. I'm somewhat "self" taught, with help from the internet and friends. I have done braking and suspension works, alternator replacement and of course regular servicing but I can't shake the sense that this is far more involved, am I right? Are there far more detail to be aware of?
Of course I would be undertaking these with proper space and tooling as well as the full workshop manual for the engine.
Again,any thanks for your take on this ✌️
Thank you! I taught myself, just lots of researching online. This was my first time working on a car engine. I had worked on 2 stroke engines before tho. I'd just jump into it , make sure u got all the correct info on what needs to be done. And triple check the manual as u go to make sure u doing the steps correctly. Once u get stuck in everything seems pretty basic to do. Least it did for me 😁😁 thanks for watching 🤙
Did you machined the head before replacing it ?
A friend told when there aluminum head right after you lose the screws it will get twisted just a question I bought a f23a1 and I’m trying to get it rebuild but I want to learn aswell
The head didn't need skimmed. You can check if yours needs skimmed tho. Just taking your head off won't cause it to warp.
Thank you looking at replacing my vw vr6 rings as it is smokey now after 200k and medium tuned, iv always wanted a honda .and iwas wondering if i needed to remove the pistons i think this answers my question,,😊
Just an update dosnt look like i need to take the bottom end off
Hopefully the poster of this video answers this question.
I rebuilt my engine with everything new....except for pistons and rings bc I was intimidated about gap and issues of damaging my cylinder walls. So I honed them and cleaned pistons and rings to be super clean with a ultrasonic cleaner. They came out looking brand new. However after running car, cylinder 2 is burning and leaking oil. All other cylinders are dry and working well. Compression good on all 4 cylinders. No leaks. Block tested with no leaks. But I have a feeling my 2nd cylinder oil ring is failing. Same symptoms I had before I did this rebuild. I did hone cylinders lightly to get new cross hatching but it clearly didn't fix this cylinders issue. So I'm going to try this repair with new rings and gaping it and following the manual.
My question is, did you have a oil fouled sparkplug and oil in combustion chamber? Or did you fix this bc you had compression ring failure? And did this fix last you a while?
Yes spark plug was oily both sides. I first replaced the rocker cover seals and valve stem seals. That stopped oil in the spark plug. But would still burn oil. So I then replaced the rings. When I took them apart the oil holes on the piston were blocked. Which probably led the oil rings to fail. I cleaned it all up then put back together. And defo hone it if new rings. Yes I checked ring gap and it was within spec
The engine ran great but I didn't hone it. So rings didn't seal as good but it never burnt enough oil to have to top it up between oil changes. I also done the same on a couple of engines now but with honing cylinder walls. And they are both running perfect still and one is my daily
@@mullac720 thanks for responding! That's awesome news! Thank you!
My car, a bmw x3 2.0 petrol, uses 1 liter of oil on 30 km. It doesn't smoke blue when I start it when the engine is cold, nor when braking hard when downshifting, so I don't think the valve seals are the culprit. I see that there is more and more blue-grey smoke as the engine warms up, and it smokes blue when I step on the gas pedal when idling and especially when accelerating after idling. I have had the car at the workshop for an engine check and they found no faults with the crankcase ventilation and the compression was good and equal on all cylinders. This engine has been run too hot once by the previous owner, so I suspect that the oil rings may be worn/damaged so they are the cause of the high oil consumption. The oil rings may be bad even if the compression is good?
yeah mine was burning oil while still having good compression. it was mostly because of the oil rings and also the valve stem seals were leaking slightly also
Thanks your for ur video. I learned many thing. I want to do this to my 2003 mazda 323 to replace piston rings. Do you have any advice? thanks.
Did you check the ring gap on new rings to ensure they are at the proper spec? I didnt see that in video
Great job! Well above my skill set
Howdy. I have a new-to-me 1998 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, automatic, 3.3L VG33E 4th VIN digit "A" motor, made 10/1997. It has one or more bad piston wrist pins, and a confirmed bad crankshaft due to excessive bearing failures from oil loss. Does anyone know if the pistons in a 1996-2004 Pathfinders, QX4, Frontier, or Xterras can be removed and reinstalled through the bottom of the motor (oil pan), with the motor still installed? I also have a bad crank so I have to have it removed and machined too. The rest of the motor is clean, no oil burning, and low miles (165,000). I hate to swap it for an unknown possible problem motor if I can do it this way instead.
I haven't been able to find anyone online who has accomplished this, but maybe it's not possible due to clearance or whatever. Do ya know, or take a guess if ya been under one like this? Thanks much!
Great video , I am attempting this this weekend .
Thank you. Sweet hope it goes well 🤙
Wondering if it’s worth spending 1 k in labor at my trusted mechanic shop for my KiA optima to change a couple of rings.. I think it is
Thanks brother
you need to hone the cylinder wall if you put new piston rings unless you still can see the honings marks
Yes I should have done it. I could still see the honing marks tho butwould have been best to do anyway
Is fhere any reason why I couldnt do this through the bottom of the block without removing head? Just did the head gasket dont feel like doing it again lol. Car wasnt burning oil as bad before idk why it is now. Always consumed some but had it in the coolant before. D17a1
You'd have to take crank out and would be just or more awkward then just taking the head off
what was the liquid you used to break down the carbon?
I used petrol
Hi, did you resurface the cylinder head? did you fix the oil consumption? Thanks
Nope didn't resurface. And it didn't burn anymore oil after that
@@mullac720 Great job, it was a pleasure to watch your video! I will be doing the same job on my car soon.
I didn't do it in this video because I still had grooves on my cylinder walls. But u may have to hone the cylinder walls if u can't see/feel the crosshatch pattern on them
Great video my friend
great video! i went here to see, what they will do to my audi. i hope it will work out..
Praying 🙏🙏
Nice video bro
♥️
Did you have any issues after replacing the rings ? Ik some mechanic’s advice is to just get a new engine
No everything was good but gone to a 1.6 now. As long as everything is in spec. There's no issues with replacing these parts
That’s a valve cover gasket failure. The D series engines use grommets that sit above the spark plug wells. When those fail oil will drop on top from the crank case. Hate to say it, but you didn’t have to do all this work. Especially if the cylinders all held compression.
Yeah mate changed the grommets wasn't just them that doesn't cause oil to burn out the exhaust. the valve stems and rings were toast also
If you have oil in the plug foil then it's a rocker cover gasket only, nothing wrong with the piston rings.
Was a combination piston rings were bad too
Did you reuse the same head bolts ? do you have to torque to 90°
yes reused them. and torqued to spec dont remember what the torque spec was tho
Don't you need to rehone the cylinders?
Yes for it to work the best unless u can still feel the crosshatch pattern but best do it while there
Nice video. Where do you get the tool for installing the pistons?
From Ebay to just search piston clamp
Dont know if this will still be relevant for you, but you can also rent a piston clamps as well from most auto parts stores to save cash.
Arg, if you make a video titled replacing piston rings don't fast forward through the one part of the video where you are actually doing this and then not explain what you are doing to fit the pistons back in! What is clocking them mean?
Why not hone the cylinders?
That's the one thing I regret not doing. But have since done another engine and I haved honed it first 😄
Where did you buy the piston rings and what brand are they? Did you have any problems with them? Thank you
From eBay. I believe they were tpr Japan rings. I've had no problems only if I were to do it again I would have honed The cylinder walls first.
@@mullac720 hey, i cant find piston rings for my d14 engine so did u use d15 or d16 piston rings?
Yes all d series rings are the same. 75mm I believe
@@mullac720 okay, thank u so much for answering😆
Did this fix the issue?
Yes
What do you use to clean the piston
Just petrol
Why not replace the pistons too?
Because there's no need, they are perfectly fine
What liquid are you using to clean the carbon off the heads?
Petrol
@@mullac720 thank you. I figured it was diesel or something
What did you soak the heads with?
Petrol
Hi,I have Honda Odessy 2016 EX model and has 212,000 miles on it and cylinder one has a piston ring licking that’s what the dealer told me so would you fix it for me I will pay you for that. Please let me know with your contact number and we can schedule in your time, thank you so much.