Thanks for posting this. I've had a drip leak in one of my rear axle seals for years, and I've spent countless hours looking for a video or some sort of description specific to the B2710 with no luck. I've not tackled a job like this before, and had I not seen this video I think I'd be looking at significant problems that I couldn't gather from a schematic of the parts, other videos for similar Kubota models, and who knows what else once I dove in. Now, seeing all the tips and tricks you used I'm left still pondering whether to tackle these seal. Hmmm...I'm still inclined to do the work given how far away a dealer or other qualified repair shop is from me. And, there's a little bit of pride involved -- given I've never had this tractor off the property for service since I bought it new in '99. Thanks, again.
I'd always lean toward doing the work yourself, nobody cares as much about your stuff as you do. So the dealer may have more experience and tools, but you'll still end up with a better job. Even if you screw up a couple sets of seals, you'll still save hundreds overall on the labor cost. I think I caused the leak on mine, I had to take that axle out a few years ago for a different reason and the guy who helped me put the case back on was really big and strong but had little mechanical experience. So I'm pretty sure he damaged the seal sliding the case back on. That's why I came up with the idea to use the floor jack.
@@GreenAcres581 Thank you. Can recall any details about removing and reinstalling the differential lock pieces other than the cog alignment you describe and illustrate very well? I can't tell from a service manual or from your videos how the pieces are held in place on that mechanism.
If you look at 3:25 in the video, the part I assume you're talking about is at the top of the case still slid onto the spline. As I recall that's just one piece: the cog and that offset looking arm. The cog and that offset looking thing slide off the spline. Maybe they're two pieces, not sure. The top of that offset arm slides onto the smooth shaft that's part of the case. If you wanted to remove the diff gear, you'd have to drive it out of the bearing that holds it in the case.
@@GreenAcres581 Thank you. I was referring to that part, and it's focused upon in the video at 8:30 when you mention aligning the cogged piece. I was wondering how that is remove from the case, if it needs to be removed at all.
Thanks for posting this. I've had a drip leak in one of my rear axle seals for years, and I've spent countless hours looking for a video or some sort of description specific to the B2710 with no luck. I've not tackled a job like this before, and had I not seen this video I think I'd be looking at significant problems that I couldn't gather from a schematic of the parts, other videos for similar Kubota models, and who knows what else once I dove in. Now, seeing all the tips and tricks you used I'm left still pondering whether to tackle these seal. Hmmm...I'm still inclined to do the work given how far away a dealer or other qualified repair shop is from me. And, there's a little bit of pride involved -- given I've never had this tractor off the property for service since I bought it new in '99. Thanks, again.
I'd always lean toward doing the work yourself, nobody cares as much about your stuff as you do. So the dealer may have more experience and tools, but you'll still end up with a better job. Even if you screw up a couple sets of seals, you'll still save hundreds overall on the labor cost. I think I caused the leak on mine, I had to take that axle out a few years ago for a different reason and the guy who helped me put the case back on was really big and strong but had little mechanical experience. So I'm pretty sure he damaged the seal sliding the case back on. That's why I came up with the idea to use the floor jack.
@@GreenAcres581 Thank you. Can recall any details about removing and reinstalling the differential lock pieces other than the cog alignment you describe and illustrate very well? I can't tell from a service manual or from your videos how the pieces are held in place on that mechanism.
If you look at 3:25 in the video, the part I assume you're talking about is at the top of the case still slid onto the spline. As I recall that's just one piece: the cog and that offset looking arm. The cog and that offset looking thing slide off the spline. Maybe they're two pieces, not sure. The top of that offset arm slides onto the smooth shaft that's part of the case. If you wanted to remove the diff gear, you'd have to drive it out of the bearing that holds it in the case.
@@GreenAcres581 Thank you. I was referring to that part, and it's focused upon in the video at 8:30 when you mention aligning the cogged piece. I was wondering how that is remove from the case, if it needs to be removed at all.
And at 9:30 you show the cog and arm removed from that shaft.
Nice video! What gasket cement did u use on reinstall?
Ultra Black Permatex. Hard to get out of the tube even when it's warm and kind of a mess, but I've had good luck with it before.