I bought a 2016 MDX in January of 2019 with 53k miles. At 115K it has developed the "undulation" of a warped rotor. It's been many years since I tackled a brake job, but this video reminded me of how relatively easy it can be. I had already ordered the parts online, but I had never heard of a "ratcheting screwdriver", so thanks to you I ordered a Klein brand from Home Depot (didn't want to risk using a cheap-o from Harbor Freight). I pulled the front tires and calipers yesterday evening and will be replacing the pads and rotors later today. And like yours, the pads still have 35-50% of the material left. When I first pulled the calipers, I thought I was fixing something that wasn't broken, but it's the rotors that are the problem and not the pads. Anyway, your video is well made and informative without a bunch of BS thrown in. Many thanks in advance for sharing your experience :-)
So far I liked your video but I have a few comments, I'm on my 3rd MDX and I do almost all my own maintenance. I would block the rear wheels and lift the car from the front lift pad under the engine to get both wheels off the ground at once; use a pair of jack stands if you have them; hang the brake calipers with a piece of wire from the shock tower or spring to keep it from damaging the brake hose by accident; after you remove the old rotors, wear a mask and remove some of the rust around the center of the hub with a rotary brush and brake clean spray then coat around the cleaned hub center with either anti seize or a light coating of caliper grease to keep the new rotors from rusting onto the hub; clean off the packaging oil coating from the new rotor surfaces before installation so they don't contaminate the pads; coat the brake pad tabs with a little caliper grease to allow them to slide in the clips; check the caliper slide pins and lubricate with caliper grease if needed; when installing the pads use a c-clamp to squeeze the bottom of the pads together and install the top caliper bolt to allow it to hinge down over both pads at once; check your brake fluid container level when you compress the caliper pistons to avoid overflowing the reservoir; remember to pump the brakes to compress the pistons onto the new rotors before driving the vehicle; test ride the vehicle for proper braking operation.
From what I've read on the internet. The phillips screw is used at the factory to retain the rotor as it's moving through the line. Not necessary when doing a brake job, the lug nuts do that job.
Good video thank you for putting it together. Since what you have to say can be critically important I would love to see these videos without the awful background muzak it's unbelievably distracting and I'm concerned I'm missing something important but thanks again.
BTurismo, thank you so much for the video! I will be attempting to replace the rotors and pads on my 2016 MDX for my first time ever and your video has helped give me confidence and great information. I really appreciate it!! Quick question. Could you explain the process you used to remove the rotor that worked so well compared to banging at it with a hammer? You used two 12mm bolts that fit the thread, but I do not understand what exactly is happening. Something about 'bottoming out'? Also did you look up what the threads ended up being? Some kind of 'typical Honda thread'... Thank you for your time, and apologies if this is a silly question. I am quite the novice.
Sure no problem! I ‘believe’ it will be an M8 metric bolt. If you’re going to the store, get two m6, m8 and m10 just in case. Get them in 20-30mm length. I believe what we are doing is known in physics as a ‘wedge’ action- we crank the bolts in, evenly, until they ‘push’ against the hub plate and exert a force through the threads that causes the rotor to back away from the hub. You may ruin the bolts in the process if the rotor is particularly seized onto the hub. Go slow (quarter turn on each bolt at first) and use some penetrating oil. Even with this method, you may find that you need to tap on the rotor with a hammer to break any corrosive bonding that may have happened. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
I bought a 2016 MDX in January of 2019 with 53k miles. At 115K it has developed the "undulation" of a warped rotor. It's been many years since I tackled a brake job, but this video reminded me of how relatively easy it can be. I had already ordered the parts online, but I had never heard of a "ratcheting screwdriver", so thanks to you I ordered a Klein brand from Home Depot (didn't want to risk using a cheap-o from Harbor Freight). I pulled the front tires and calipers yesterday evening and will be replacing the pads and rotors later today. And like yours, the pads still have 35-50% of the material left. When I first pulled the calipers, I thought I was fixing something that wasn't broken, but it's the rotors that are the problem and not the pads. Anyway, your video is well made and informative without a bunch of BS thrown in. Many thanks in advance for sharing your experience :-)
That’s awesome that you could DIY and I’m glad I could help without getting dirty again!
So far I liked your video but I have a few comments, I'm on my 3rd MDX and I do almost all my own maintenance. I would block the rear wheels and lift the car from the front lift pad under the engine to get both wheels off the ground at once; use a pair of jack stands if you have them; hang the brake calipers with a piece of wire from the shock tower or spring to keep it from damaging the brake hose by accident; after you remove the old rotors, wear a mask and remove some of the rust around the center of the hub with a rotary brush and brake clean spray then coat around the cleaned hub center with either anti seize or a light coating of caliper grease to keep the new rotors from rusting onto the hub; clean off the packaging oil coating from the new rotor surfaces before installation so they don't contaminate the pads; coat the brake pad tabs with a little caliper grease to allow them to slide in the clips; check the caliper slide pins and lubricate with caliper grease if needed; when installing the pads use a c-clamp to squeeze the bottom of the pads together and install the top caliper bolt to allow it to hinge down over both pads at once; check your brake fluid container level when you compress the caliper pistons to avoid overflowing the reservoir; remember to pump the brakes to compress the pistons onto the new rotors before driving the vehicle; test ride the vehicle for proper braking operation.
Allen Sarkozy you definitely covered everything I didn’t!
Allen Sarkozy fantastic. Im going to fo mine pretty soon.
Great video and feedback from Allen. I am doing the same thing on my wife's mdx later today.
From what I've read on the internet. The phillips screw is used at the factory to retain the rotor as it's moving through the line. Not necessary when doing a brake job, the lug nuts do that job.
It actually is known as a JAS screw which is a bit different...
Great video , thanks , just remember to clean the rotors , that they came greasy when new.
LUV this you are soo smooth and confident , brought back my opinion to do my 2017 RDX !! 😁🌹🥨✨💎🎩
Good video thank you for putting it together. Since what you have to say can be critically important I would love to see these videos without the awful background muzak it's unbelievably distracting and I'm concerned I'm missing something important but thanks again.
I appreciate the feedback! I’ve been working on getting the levels right and I think this one was at the older settings-
“Trying to balance leg fatigue and clock mgmt-football is on”. Never were truer words spoken.
It only seems to get worse!
BTurismo, thank you so much for the video! I will be attempting to replace the rotors and pads on my 2016 MDX for my first time ever and your video has helped give me confidence and great information. I really appreciate it!!
Quick question. Could you explain the process you used to remove the rotor that worked so well compared to banging at it with a hammer? You used two 12mm bolts that fit the thread, but I do not understand what exactly is happening. Something about 'bottoming out'?
Also did you look up what the threads ended up being? Some kind of 'typical Honda thread'...
Thank you for your time, and apologies if this is a silly question. I am quite the novice.
Sure no problem!
I ‘believe’ it will be an M8 metric bolt. If you’re going to the store, get two m6, m8 and m10 just in case. Get them in 20-30mm length. I believe what we are doing is known in physics as a ‘wedge’ action- we crank the bolts in, evenly, until they ‘push’ against the hub plate and exert a force through the threads that causes the rotor to back away from the hub.
You may ruin the bolts in the process if the rotor is particularly seized onto the hub. Go slow (quarter turn on each bolt at first) and use some penetrating oil. Even with this method, you may find that you need to tap on the rotor with a hammer to break any corrosive bonding that may have happened.
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
AMEN !! 😁
Hey what rotors you used ? Do they squeek bought oem brakes but hesitant about the oem rotors because of the price per rotor
I definitely didn’t use OEM. I don’t know the brand anymore!
@@BTurismo should I be find if I get after market rotors identical to the factory with oem brakes
@@real24bmore I think so. Bonus if you get cryotreated or anything like that. They’ll hold up better to the elements and resist warping better.
Does it help?
For sure!