LsxMatt no problem bro, just trying to be helpful, because I know some people can be ruthless in the comments over the silliest of shit;) Love the build! Gonna start putting my 98 Z28 back together soon with a T6 S400/5.3 Combe this time. Debating whether or not to film and post it....
ANTIVNM Nice! You should totally film it. Whenever I get another ls swap project, it’s probably gonna be turbo. I would love to get a 2nd gen Camaro as a cruiser with a 6.0, 4l80e and some twins👍.
You're running hot at idle is not the cooling fans. Your water pump is not moving a sufficient amount of coolant at idle to keep the engine running at a cooler temperature. You need a performance water pump that moves a higher volume of coolant at idle.
I've done the doors on all of my f-body Camaros and a few s10 blazers for friends. The only thing I did different was put thread inserts instead of self tapers. the access door is the best way to change the fuel pumps on this cars for sure.
I did the same thing for fuel pump access to my 3rd and 4th gen camaros, and even my moms 98 buick regal gs. Makes life A LOT easier for fuel pump changes. I used weather stripping, latch and hinges to make a functional hatch.
Great video. I now feel more confident about the fuel door. I admit. I'm squeamish about it. But thanks to you, I see that it's not affecting any of the frame. I like it. And thank you so much for showing us the link to the cage. I just purchased it. Yes it's an incredibly good price. I payed 230. But it's still an amazing deal. Most places charge 1800 or more. So thank you for the information. I love your car
Old video i know but i recently had pump in tank go out on my TA and originally i mounted a fuel pump on body rail and used the pump in the tank as a secondary pump for my LS swap. So now that the pump finally went out, i decided to do it the correct way and do away with external pump and put the right kind of pump in the tank to supply my LS. I did my fuel system exactly as you did. Put my return where my vent once was and used the old supply line. The vent it hooked up to the second from the right and the evap i hooked up to the one beside the fuel supply. When i ran it the first couple times everything checked out no leaks or anything. Then i took on a bit of a longer drive, maybe 35 minutes and it started to leak. At the time i couldn’t tell where from, it emptied the entire tank. Now i get it to garage, go to turn pump on and run it and i have no leaks. I let it run for about 20 minutes but i only have 1/4 tank now and when the leak occurred it had about 3/4 tank. Could this issue be because i put those vent and evap lines on different lines than original. Is it okay for me to just leave the evap and vent lines unhooked.
Aw dang man, great job, I wish I could have recommended getting the plastic 4th gen tank though. It's a much better tank and the hole you have to cut to do fuel pump swaps is much smaller. Great job though. Car is coming right along!
Clean job on the TDM .I'm gonna do this to my 4th gen when it's time,but I think I'm gonna use a snip to cut and not have sparks flying everywhere because I don"t wanna blow myself up lol.Keep the vids coming.
Matt, I've been enjoying your channel for a while now and trying to figure out what area you live in. I'm of the "pro fuel pump door" group. I have to tell you, that's not a particularly good way to do it. It's real flimsy. Not that my 2 cents is worth much but I would have drilled the corners to avoid the sharp 90, used heavier steel for the cover, and used rivnuts with a gasket around the perimeter. No need for a hinge, and welding near the tank is not a great idea, happy to see you work outdoors :) I did mine 15 years ago, not exactly as I suggested, but hindsight is 20/20.
I just did a fuel pump in my 95 formula and gotta say im happy the previous owner had done a trap door mod made my life soooo much easier less then 3o mins and job was done.. Trap door for the win!
What's that white round piece at 8:31 by the fuel filter I just got my 93 camaro and the pump went out crawled under the car and mines melted at tied up with wire
You have coolant flow problem at idle. high flowing water pump maybe will help. You have alot of amp draw with all the fans what is in your cars volts at idle. If you rev it up and fans speed up way need to upgrade alt. and wiring or maybe just wire upgrade.
Voltage with all fans on, blower on high with headlights is 13.6. Before I swapped to the new accessory drive I had a 90 amp alt. New one is a 140. Also the pusher fans don’t run unless the ac is on. Fans are wired with their own relays with 12 gauge wiring.
Also with the cap off the radiator, if I rev it up I can see coolant flow through the passages in the radiator. At idle the coolant seems to just sit there.
That won't help at all. It just lowers the minimum engine temperature. His temperature at idle will not change what so ever. And running a 160 thermostat without a tune will make the engine think it's colder than it should be, thus running rich and losing power.
King's Gift - I have a clapper thermostat, and it opens anytime I clap my hands. The only problem is I only have one arm, so it was hard to clap until I bought a mannequin. I positioned the mannequin in the passenger seat, and extended it's left hand out in my direction. So now I high-five the mannequin to get the fan to turn on. It works great, except my girlfriend hates having to ride in the back seat because the mannequin has to be in the front seat. Oh well, it is what it is.
bad idea with EFI and an LS. the engine is designed to be the most efficient at 180F+ running 160F will tap into the fuel enrichment curve and reduce performance and MPG.
This is a "trick" that belongs in the 1960s. Aluminum heads benefit from running around 190-200 or so.I aim for just under 200 on my blown EFI 5.0 with aluminum heads and run a stock 195 stat. You could get a custom tune and adjust the fuel trims to around 180-190 degrees, but you'll still get a better burn closer to(but not much over) 200.
Fan shroud is not deep enough, those fans are not pulling air from the radiator corners.Air needs space when coming through radiator and turning 90° to pass through fans.Add 1"-2" depth.
When you bypassed the connector for the fuel sending unit (purple and gray wires) and rewired them directly without stock plastic connector...does your fuel gauge work? I just installed a new fuel sending unit bc my fuel gauge isnt working.
Question, i have an 86 Camaro full Injection v8. My fuel gauge its not working properly, so i really need to cut my muffler pipe to install the floater?
This helped a lot thanks so much I’m doing an LS swap right now in my 3rd gen and I’m running into confusion with the fuel pump. Is there any way u could explain some of the wiring for the fuel pump? I think I have to make my own relay but idk. Thanks for the great vid!
should be grey hot black ground and purple for the fuel gauge. coming out of the sending unit that is. up to where it plugs to the harness out back purple be fine and ground should be also just tap into a fuse or wire that is hot only when key is on find that with a test light and jump it over to the grey wire, bam.
So doing this trick when I finally can afford to start my convertible build. Got to pay off the boat. then gonna start a 350 z28 convertible build, probably a clone depends what kind of vert I can get my hands on without destroying some low mileage numbers matching car. Want a 500 hp toy I can actually get the family in for a cruise.
My trans am came with a mechanical fuel pump on the small block.. my question is can I just add the pump to the original sending unit... and what pump would you recommend
I think you can, but if its the original sending unit it would probably be a good idea to swap it out. Then you can order one for a fuel injected car and the pump will fit easily.
If that were true, spinning the engine faster, hence the pump, would make the problem worse. A 160 does not cause this problem from my own experience. However, running without a thermostat will cause problems because there is no choke point and the flow rate goes through the roof.... had tried to run with no thermostat before and over 4k rpm my lower rad hose would actually get sucked closed with a factory water pump. At the same time the flow even at idle was so fast the rad didn't have time to cool. A 160 thermostat does not cause any of these problems. Dropping idle coolant temps can be accomplished either through spinning the water pump a little faster, higher capacity cooling fans, or quite possibly the easiest and best way if you have a programmer, reducing ignition timing at idle conditions. Firing the cylinder later reduces the time of burn in the engine, carries more of the heat out the exhaust at idle. At no load, true idle conditions, you can take the timing safely back to 0 advance without risking burning exhaust valves, seats etc. As soon as you are off idle, make sure your timing is back to correct timing.
I’ve always had problems with overheating and now I’m doing my first Ls swap with a turbo so I’m definitely interested to see what works... I’ve learned alot from these videos .. keep em comin!
@@lsxmatt it's all still installed in my car I just needed to know if the evap line is 3/8 and vent is 5/16 or vice versa And can I just plug the evap up if I'm not using that anymore
If it's your car, and you work on your on car, what does it matter, do a clean job, it's a hell of alot better than pulling out that tank, my Ram 1500 i lifted the bed up just enough to work from the top, got a tank with 26 gallons of fuel in it, not fun bringing it down
When referring to AN fittings it’s “dash” not “negative” bro....just sounds a little weird hearing people say negative. I’ve dropped my tank and several others before. It’s a pain in the ass. I decided on the current car (my 98 Z28) more than a decade ago to cut a hatch to get to the fuel pump. After probably 15 years, I’ve had zero issue or regrets!
For what you did I would have just dropped tank - for fast swap cut the easy access hole but your all over place , dropping tank not that much harder and you get full access / fwiw
Theres nothing wrong with the trap door, some people get way to anal about it. I have the trap door mod on my 86 z28 and on my moms 85 iroc. Saves time plus who wants to pull there whole rearend on a highway somewhere to change the pump whe your on a road trip or something? Plus who just has a floor jack and jack stands and all the required tools just sitting in the back of there 3rd gen?.
Most modded thirdgens are running a trap door, since you need a bigger fuel pump for decent power, and dropping the tank is a real pain in the ass. Some Foxbody guys run one as well. I originally dropped the tank on mine, but when my Walbro pump died I put a door on just in case my replacement Aeromotive died(so far so good). People get oddly defensive about this subject, ironically it's usually older guys with clapped out stock TPI IROCs or worse, carb swaps.
@@lokihallow I've replaced my fuel pump twice and tank once. Never once "pulled the whole rearend". It's a pain, I admit, but not hacking the floor pan up, or cutting the metal lines, is the reward for doing it right.
Yea try to ignore all the times I said “negative” an fittings, it’s a habit.. They are really referred to as “dash”.
LsxMatt no problem bro, just trying to be helpful, because I know some people can be ruthless in the comments over the silliest of shit;)
Love the build! Gonna start putting my 98 Z28 back together soon with a T6 S400/5.3 Combe this time. Debating whether or not to film and post it....
ANTIVNM Nice! You should totally film it. Whenever I get another ls swap project, it’s probably gonna be turbo. I would love to get a 2nd gen Camaro as a cruiser with a 6.0, 4l80e and some twins👍.
Is it possible to use a zl1 fuel pump in the third gen tank?
You're running hot at idle is not the cooling fans. Your water pump is not moving a sufficient amount of coolant at idle to keep the engine running at a cooler temperature. You need a performance water pump that moves a higher volume of coolant at idle.
Blind_N_Baked 420 any underdrive pulleys????
I've done the doors on all of my f-body Camaros and a few s10 blazers for friends. The only thing I did different was put thread inserts instead of self tapers. the access door is the best way to change the fuel pumps on this cars for sure.
That’s a good idea, I’ll probably put some in my self.
I'm going to use pop rivets with an Allstar 14x10 fuel pump access door.
I did the same thing for fuel pump access to my 3rd and 4th gen camaros, and even my moms 98 buick regal gs. Makes life A LOT easier for fuel pump changes. I used weather stripping, latch and hinges to make a functional hatch.
Great video. I now feel more confident about the fuel door. I admit. I'm squeamish about it. But thanks to you, I see that it's not affecting any of the frame. I like it. And thank you so much for showing us the link to the cage. I just purchased it. Yes it's an incredibly good price. I payed 230. But it's still an amazing deal. Most places charge 1800 or more. So thank you for the information. I love your car
Nice! I just used a small pipe cutter to cut the lines and added fuel hoses. But you did a nice job on the cut and trap door.
Yea I couldn’t find my pipe cutter, that’s my go to as well!
Old video i know but i recently had pump in tank go out on my TA and originally i mounted a fuel pump on body rail and used the pump in the tank as a secondary pump for my LS swap. So now that the pump finally went out, i decided to do it the correct way and do away with external pump and put the right kind of pump in the tank to supply my LS. I did my fuel system exactly as you did. Put my return where my vent once was and used the old supply line. The vent it hooked up to the second from the right and the evap i hooked up to the one beside the fuel supply. When i ran it the first couple times everything checked out no leaks or anything. Then i took on a bit of a longer drive, maybe 35 minutes and it started to leak. At the time i couldn’t tell where from, it emptied the entire tank. Now i get it to garage, go to turn pump on and run it and i have no leaks. I let it run for about 20 minutes but i only have 1/4 tank now and when the leak occurred it had about 3/4 tank. Could this issue be because i put those vent and evap lines on different lines than original. Is it okay for me to just leave the evap and vent lines unhooked.
You sir are a legend! Saved me dropping my tank. 😁
Aw dang man, great job, I wish I could have recommended getting the plastic 4th gen tank though. It's a much better tank and the hole you have to cut to do fuel pump swaps is much smaller. Great job though. Car is coming right along!
Beautiful ride man. That LS is criminal!
Excellent job. I would probably not do a hinge, and just drill & tap holes around the perimeter for machine screws, and make a gasket.
Those early 90s Cavalier steering wheels are way underrated
Clean job on the TDM .I'm gonna do this to my 4th gen when it's time,but I think I'm gonna use a snip to cut and not have sparks flying everywhere because I don"t wanna blow myself up lol.Keep the vids coming.
Haha yea snips do work and are safer! Just avoid the silicone and plywood to seal it back up like I’ve seen some people do..😂
good mod for these cars, gonna do it myself soon
Matt, I've been enjoying your channel for a while now and trying to figure out what area you live in. I'm of the "pro fuel pump door" group. I have to tell you, that's not a particularly good way to do it. It's real flimsy. Not that my 2 cents is worth much but I would have drilled the corners to avoid the sharp 90, used heavier steel for the cover, and used rivnuts with a gasket around the perimeter. No need for a hinge, and welding near the tank is not a great idea, happy to see you work outdoors :) I did mine 15 years ago, not exactly as I suggested, but hindsight is 20/20.
I need an access door also bit my car is 100 percent factory, so it's a hard decision.
I just did a fuel pump in my 95 formula and gotta say im happy the previous owner had done a trap door mod made my life soooo much easier less then 3o mins and job was done.. Trap door for the win!
YOUR THURMASTAT SHOULD HAVE A SOME. HOLES DRILLED AROUND THE BASE 4. TO. 6 DEPENDS ON HOLE SIZE THIS IS A GOOD. SAFETY
What's that white round piece at 8:31 by the fuel filter I just got my 93 camaro and the pump went out crawled under the car and mines melted at tied up with wire
You have coolant flow problem at idle. high flowing water pump maybe will help. You have alot of amp draw with all the fans what is in your cars volts at idle. If you rev it up and fans speed up way need to upgrade alt. and wiring or maybe just wire upgrade.
Voltage with all fans on, blower on high with headlights is 13.6. Before I swapped to the new accessory drive I had a 90 amp alt. New one is a 140. Also the pusher fans don’t run unless the ac is on. Fans are wired with their own relays with 12 gauge wiring.
Also with the cap off the radiator, if I rev it up I can see coolant flow through the passages in the radiator. At idle the coolant seems to just sit there.
I did the same thing to my trans am. Awesome video.
i am thinking about the access panel but im also looking at twin aeromotive a1000's so many decisions.
I have a 160 thermostat. It opens sooner thus keeping the car cooler.
That won't help at all. It just lowers the minimum engine temperature. His temperature at idle will not change what so ever. And running a 160 thermostat without a tune will make the engine think it's colder than it should be, thus running rich and losing power.
King's Gift - I have a clapper thermostat, and it opens anytime I clap my hands. The only problem is I only have one arm, so it was hard to clap until I bought a mannequin. I positioned the mannequin in the passenger seat, and extended it's left hand out in my direction. So now I high-five the mannequin to get the fan to turn on. It works great, except my girlfriend hates having to ride in the back seat because the mannequin has to be in the front seat. Oh well, it is what it is.
bad idea with EFI and an LS. the engine is designed to be the most efficient at 180F+ running 160F will tap into the fuel enrichment curve and reduce performance and MPG.
King's Gift 350tpi like to run hot 200+220
This is a "trick" that belongs in the 1960s. Aluminum heads benefit from running around 190-200 or so.I aim for just under 200 on my blown EFI 5.0 with aluminum heads and run a stock 195 stat. You could get a custom tune and adjust the fuel trims to around 180-190 degrees, but you'll still get a better burn closer to(but not much over) 200.
Fan shroud is not deep enough, those fans are not pulling air from the radiator corners.Air needs space when coming through radiator and turning 90° to pass through fans.Add 1"-2" depth.
When you bypassed the connector for the fuel sending unit (purple and gray wires) and rewired them directly without stock plastic connector...does your fuel gauge work?
I just installed a new fuel sending unit bc my fuel gauge isnt working.
Awesome work Matt keep the videos coming
Question, i have an 86 Camaro full Injection v8. My fuel gauge its not working properly, so i really need to cut my muffler pipe to install the floater?
This helped a lot thanks so much I’m doing an LS swap right now in my 3rd gen and I’m running into confusion with the fuel pump. Is there any way u could explain some of the wiring for the fuel pump? I think I have to make my own relay but idk. Thanks for the great vid!
should be grey hot black ground and purple for the fuel gauge. coming out of the sending unit that is. up to where it plugs to the harness out back purple be fine and ground should be also just tap into a fuse or wire that is hot only when key is on find that with a test light and jump it over to the grey wire, bam.
I been thinking about getting a project car for me and my 2 sons. Do you think 3rd Gen would be a good place to start for a project car?
Yea they’re great project cars! Relatively cheap, pretty easy to work on, and tons of potential.
cheap,readily available they made almost 2 million of them so yeah.
So doing this trick when I finally can afford to start my convertible build. Got to pay off the boat. then gonna start a 350 z28 convertible build, probably a clone depends what kind of vert I can get my hands on without destroying some low mileage numbers matching car. Want a 500 hp toy I can actually get the family in for a cruise.
With your non-baffled tank do you ever have fuel starvation issues? I am LS swapping my 1984 Trans Am and I have the same tank.
Never had an issue, I don’t romp on it below a 1/4 tank though.
I know you talking about cooling. Just curious what exhaust you running? Sounds great 👍
Muffler is an Slp loudmouth 2. Running 1 7/8 longtubes and a hawks y pipe.
LsxMatt 👍
My trans am came with a mechanical fuel pump on the small block.. my question is can I just add the pump to the original sending unit... and what pump would you recommend
I think you can, but if its the original sending unit it would probably be a good idea to swap it out. Then you can order one for a fuel injected car and the pump will fit easily.
Good video assume matt
I think a 160 thermostat will stay open all the time not allowing the rad and fans to cool the fluid...
If that were true, spinning the engine faster, hence the pump, would make the problem worse. A 160 does not cause this problem from my own experience. However, running without a thermostat will cause problems because there is no choke point and the flow rate goes through the roof.... had tried to run with no thermostat before and over 4k rpm my lower rad hose would actually get sucked closed with a factory water pump. At the same time the flow even at idle was so fast the rad didn't have time to cool. A 160 thermostat does not cause any of these problems. Dropping idle coolant temps can be accomplished either through spinning the water pump a little faster, higher capacity cooling fans, or quite possibly the easiest and best way if you have a programmer, reducing ignition timing at idle conditions. Firing the cylinder later reduces the time of burn in the engine, carries more of the heat out the exhaust at idle. At no load, true idle conditions, you can take the timing safely back to 0 advance without risking burning exhaust valves, seats etc. As soon as you are off idle, make sure your timing is back to correct timing.
Magnum Caliber Creations I see your point... i had a gen 1 engine that actually ran 20 degrees cooler when I locked the distributor out at 36 degrees
I’ve always had problems with overheating and now I’m doing my first Ls swap with a turbo so I’m definitely interested to see what works... I’ve learned alot from these videos .. keep em comin!
What fan setup is that I’m trying to figure out better fans for clearance my turbo setup
Twin spal 12 inch puller fans.
Thanks tons love your build man.. just got my 82 Berlinetta for Christmas from my boss and your videos have helped tons already
I know the 3/8" feed line and the 5/16" return line
I need to know exactically what one is vent and evap
Vent has a plastic vent bulb on it clipped into a bracket.
@@lsxmatt it's all still installed in my car
I just needed to know if the evap line is 3/8 and vent is 5/16 or vice versa
And can I just plug the evap up if I'm not using that anymore
Ben Kalinowski evap and return are both 5/16. Feed and vent are 3/8.
@@lsxmatt ok ty
That helps
If it's your car, and you work on your on car, what does it matter, do a clean job, it's a hell of alot better than pulling out that tank, my Ram 1500 i lifted the bed up just enough to work from the top, got a tank with 26 gallons of fuel in it, not fun bringing it down
Lower rad hose is no kinking
All I can think of would be your state is stuck open?
Would this be the same for 98 corvette ls1 into an 89 ?
yep,why would it be any different?
Man thanks, this information is price-LS.
wtf is that thing you pick up at 2:50?
Genisys SPX OTC scan tool
When referring to AN fittings it’s “dash” not “negative” bro....just sounds a little weird hearing people say negative.
I’ve dropped my tank and several others before. It’s a pain in the ass. I decided on the current car (my 98 Z28) more than a decade ago to cut a hatch to get to the fuel pump. After probably 15 years, I’ve had zero issue or regrets!
Put the air damn back on and cure your high temperatures on the road
mechanical water pump.. of course it will cool better as you rev it
Dude, it's called DASH 6, DASH 8 DASH 10, not negative x
One more thing put an external fule pump instead of cutting a big ass hole in the back
lol @lsxmatt I've allready done a video on this to hahahhah nice
For what you did I would have just dropped tank - for fast swap cut the easy access hole but your all over place , dropping tank not that much harder and you get full access / fwiw
I’m glad I didn’t. It turned out the pump was defective so the tuner had to replace it. Would of cost me a lot more if there wasn’t a door.
Nooooo not the trap door mod.. whyy 😅😅
Haha I was never one for it, but the cars so modified, what’s one more hole?😂
Theres nothing wrong with the trap door, some people get way to anal about it. I have the trap door mod on my 86 z28 and on my moms 85 iroc. Saves time plus who wants to pull there whole rearend on a highway somewhere to change the pump whe your on a road trip or something? Plus who just has a floor jack and jack stands and all the required tools just sitting in the back of there 3rd gen?.
Most modded thirdgens are running a trap door, since you need a bigger fuel pump for decent power, and dropping the tank is a real pain in the ass. Some Foxbody guys run one as well. I originally dropped the tank on mine, but when my Walbro pump died I put a door on just in case my replacement Aeromotive died(so far so good). People get oddly defensive about this subject, ironically it's usually older guys with clapped out stock TPI IROCs or worse, carb swaps.
@@lokihallow I've replaced my fuel pump twice and tank once. Never once "pulled the whole rearend". It's a pain, I admit, but not hacking the floor pan up, or cutting the metal lines, is the reward for doing it right.
Buys ebay fans idk why im running hot 🙄
Never !
Seriously think about putting a *CAUTION SIGN* before and after your video . Especially since you are *CUTTING AND WELDING AROUND THE FUEL TANK* .
Or maybe he just expects people to not be retarded? He mentioned being careful about this, what do you want? Lol.