Question; How is a rubber grommet from harbor freight going to keep your garage from filling up with gas fumes? Many have water heaters, infrared or HVAC heat when cool out. If the fuel is cooled, pumped from in ground tanks at gas stations, no activate carbon canister, it will simply push fumes out and the hydrocarbon run free! DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Great Video, I'm just learning all about AN (Army/Navy) fittings! never had to deal with it much. I installed a 5.3 in a 86 Army K30 Diesel truck, Had a inline 044 knock off pump pulling fuel but that didn't work out to great and the engine was starving for fuel and it was noisy so I'm using a sending unit from a 90 Chevy truck and a fuel pump from 97 Chevy Truck with a 7.4L F.I. Its Christmas and just sourced what I could get at the local parts stores, Had no time to order stuff online and wait 3 days. I also cut open my stock tank and welded in a stainless cooking pot where the pump will be suspended in. just got done pressure testing the tank tonight and crossing my fingers that everything will work as planed. I plan on throwing a Chinese Turbo on it in the future and will upgrade the pump with a $100 450G/H unit. It's my first LS but it won't be my last. Been dealing with SBC all my life and I'm kicking myself in the ass for not doing it sooner, they are the best engines.
Update, Got everything hooked up with F.I. hose clamps. Installed an Inline OE Purolator fuel filter, drove across town, no leaks, pump is feeding the 5.3 properly and everything works
Hi how are you Sir. I just wanted to thank you for the cage information. I found it. I did pay an extra hundred bucks. But you literally found the greatest deal. Thank you so much. I'm looking forward to installing it. Love your videos as always. Take care
I do the same thing with bulk 3/8" brake line for the for the fuel system conversions on my LS projects and sometimes I convert the stock lines over if in good condition, cheaper than braided and neater too. My question is how did you seal the Harbor Freight grommet with the heavier gauge wiring running through it ? Seems like it would be one hell of a fuel leak on a full tank.
Dude if you ever flip your car the rubber grommet will leak fuel all over the place. find a gas tank shop your can get the bulkhead fitting you need there be safe.
While you're in there, you might want to fish out the swollen heat shrink from the bottom of your tank. It is not compatible with life submerged in fuel.
Is that the stock third gen bracket for the pump? Or is that an after market gas tank and pump bracket? Whatever it is can you link where you go them? Please and thanks :)
Thanks for the video, very helpful for my current 5.3 swap! Your setup sounds awesome as well! Any chance you could tell me what exhaust setup you're running?
I followed this exact same thing, did your original return line begin to squirt fuel out when the tank gets pressure? Dont have an issue at all untill I get to about half a tank. Wonder if you have had that similar issue
Great video I'm not busting your balls but just want to let you know a few mistakes that you made. I don't think shrink tube is safe to use with gas, so you might have issues with it deteriorating. The return line that you ran though the vent pipe should have been extended to the bottom of the tank because the fuel returning to the tank will aerate. AN fittings are 37 deg and a regular flare is 45 deg be careful they might leak
I love ur vids I am restoring a 1986 firebird sport coupe berlintta and was wandering how to maintenance the back hatch motor? And how much was the engine and trans swap cost to get down the road?
I never really had to touch my hatch motor, so far its still working...I would say a basic swap running would be around 3500-5000, you’ll be closer to 3500 if you get the motor, trans, and accessories from a junkyard.
I know that was the 3/8 feed line that you did but was the other line the 5/16 return line you did? I've heard the 6an fitting wouldn't work on the 5/16 line
When you cut the factory power and ground off from the sender connector, did the sender (purple wire) still operate your fuel gauge fine? Just found out my aeromotive 340 burnt that whole connector in my tank. I'm going to bypass it just as you did.
The two larger ones I use for supply and return. One was already supply and the other 3/8 is a vent. The two smaller ones are evap and the factory return line. I used one of the smaller lines for the vent and the remaining evap got capped. I’m using a vented gas cap.
@@lsxmatt Thank you for helping me with the final piece for my fuel system, hopefully, this can also help others. Now to get a harness and jump on lt1swap.com
I was trying to find the vid on u doing the rest of the fuel hook up after the trap door vid i.m following you on the vids I have a 350 carb Camaro swapped from a v6 so fuel hook up is pretty much the issue
If you needed to push more fuel which way would you go about it? I need a -8 feed and -6 return, there's not much for after market on thirdgens for the factory tank. I'm thinking maybe a sump and external pump but I hate external pumps lol
Cars not running yet, 5.3 gt45 btr stage 2 I have everything I need for the engine, but I'm a little unsure what to do with the fuel system I wanna do it once and be done
Is that submersible wire? I've been looking for some 12ga submersible wire. I've also had several people say that the fuel can wick up through the wire. Seems far fetched, but was wondering what your experience was.
I used Teflon coated wire that I got on Amazon a whileee ago. If you can’t find any you can always use some PTFE heat shrink tubing and coat the whole wire with it. That’s weird, I never heard the thing with the fuel making its way up through the wire..
Are those other two lines coming out of your sending unit for evap or something? Just checking because I don't see where they go in this video. I am getting ready to do this to my 91 Firebird so I really appreciate these videos!
What did you do with EVAP lines / system? Or are they "pluggable" with EGR delete in ECM? Have my LS pulled from my old van, and putting together plans to swap into my 83 Camaro. Thanks
Yet another awesome video, thanks man! one question tho, have you ever considered going with a 4th gen fuel tank? I hear they are better for road racing and autocross.
Your stock unit will work, just upgrade the pump. I suggest a walbro 400lph or 450lph(E85 safe). That way, if your future has a turbo in it, you already have the pump to provide enough fuel.
@@lsxmatt If that's an SAE flare tool then it's 45* (used for refrigeration, water lines, various copper lines...), the only 37* flairs are AN and JIC (special hydraulic fittings which match the AN fittings but are cut to a less exacting standard, there's also a Parker hydraulic fitting standard which uses 30* flares and a Japanese one that uses 37* flares and metric threads). Unless you went out and ordered a special AN or hydraulic fitting tool that's a 45* flare (37* flaring tools usually have blue boxes so they stand out from the standard ones). The second problem you have there is that those tube nut/ferrule assemblies are designed for use with aluminum tube. You may never see a problem from this, but you've created a situation where you have the seal being made by a single point of contact rather than a flat face, allowing it to pivot when it vibrates and it''s a steel tube pivoting against an aluminum ferrule that will wear and loosen. Of course, a properly done aluminum an -8 fitting joint has a pressure rating starting at 500psi, so you likely have a little bit of leeway there until wear from vibration causes a problem.
Old video, but don’t use the brake flare tool!! Found out the hard way myself. An fittings use different degree than the brake line flare is.. you will end up with a small contact when using this tool. Found out with my trans line, then a customers fuel injected lines! Buy the right tool! Same concept
An is 37 degree, automotive or SAE? are 45. I don't think you have the right tool. An AN flare tool is not something you find in a parts store. I'm surprised they are not leaking. Another issue is the factory tube. It's usually welded, and has a seam on the inside. That's why they use double flares on automotive applications. It puts the smooth outside surface of the tube as the seat for the fitting. On my car (84 Camaro) the seams caused the fuel lines to leak. I was able to polish them out with a tootsie roll abrasive.
I know you will but, make sure everything you did is sealed up tight. You will smell gas inside your car. That’s how I found out someone had cut the floor in my car, and they did a hack job. But I cleaned it up. Of course I bought the car used.
I’ll find out soon enough, but everything seems to be sealed up good. Only thing I’m going to change is the wire grommet with a bulkhead fitting in its place.
Yeah you’ve got easy to follow content but the true tech advice is not really good quality . Brake lines are 45 degree AN is 37 plus a single flare is not very reliable unless it’s stainless
No big ass lift , no crazy air tools , this is a real build man , shit ppl can actually use as a reference , keep doing it man
Question; How is a rubber grommet from harbor freight going to keep your garage from filling up with gas fumes? Many have water heaters, infrared or HVAC heat when cool out. If the fuel is cooled, pumped from in ground tanks at gas stations, no activate carbon canister, it will simply push fumes out and the hydrocarbon run free! DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
thank you for your easy language and clear tongue, you are educated man!
Great Video, I'm just learning all about AN (Army/Navy) fittings! never had to deal with it much. I installed a 5.3 in a 86 Army K30 Diesel truck, Had a inline 044 knock off pump pulling fuel but that didn't work out to great and the engine was starving for fuel and it was noisy so I'm using a sending unit from a 90 Chevy truck and a fuel pump from 97 Chevy Truck with a 7.4L F.I. Its Christmas and just sourced what I could get at the local parts stores, Had no time to order stuff online and wait 3 days. I also cut open my stock tank and welded in a stainless cooking pot where the pump will be suspended in. just got done pressure testing the tank tonight and crossing my fingers that everything will work as planed. I plan on throwing a Chinese Turbo on it in the future and will upgrade the pump with a $100 450G/H unit. It's my first LS but it won't be my last. Been dealing with SBC all my life and I'm kicking myself in the ass for not doing it sooner, they are the best engines.
Update, Got everything hooked up with F.I. hose clamps. Installed an Inline OE Purolator fuel filter, drove across town, no leaks, pump is feeding the 5.3 properly and everything works
The green "crap" @ 1:55 looks like pieces of siphon hose, from when you would push the garden hose in and pull it out.
Hi how are you Sir. I just wanted to thank you for the cage information. I found it. I did pay an extra hundred bucks. But you literally found the greatest deal. Thank you so much. I'm looking forward to installing it. Love your videos as always. Take care
PSA an fittings require a 37 degree flare tool, not a standard 45 degree like the less expensive kits
Nice to see videos on a 3rd LS swap I have been working on one myself! Keep up the good work dude!
Great video well explained... curious are you not wiring up fuel guage??
What headliner is that Matt? 👀👀
I do the same thing with bulk 3/8" brake line for the for the fuel system conversions on my LS projects and sometimes I convert the stock lines over if in good condition, cheaper than braided and neater too. My question is how did you seal the Harbor Freight grommet with the heavier gauge wiring running through it ? Seems like it would be one hell of a fuel leak on a full tank.
Doesn't that grommet leak fumes like crazy and liquid gas when the tank's full?
Hella skilled. Even with this tutorial you video I’d be too scared to try this
Dude if you ever flip your car the rubber grommet will leak fuel all over the place. find a gas tank shop your can get the bulkhead fitting you need there be safe.
Good to know, the pump access door will come in handy now😂
While you're in there, you might want to fish out the swollen heat shrink from the bottom of your tank. It is not compatible with life submerged in fuel.
Do you have a video on the fuel pump wiring ?
What kind of steering wheel do you have? I love it!
Is that the stock third gen bracket for the pump? Or is that an after market gas tank and pump bracket? Whatever it is can you link where you go them? Please and thanks :)
Thanks for the video, very helpful for my current 5.3 swap! Your setup sounds awesome as well! Any chance you could tell me what exhaust setup you're running?
I followed this exact same thing, did your original return line begin to squirt fuel out when the tank gets pressure? Dont have an issue at all untill I get to about half a tank. Wonder if you have had that similar issue
Can i get away just using compressing fittings ?
Great video I'm not busting your balls but just want to let you know a few mistakes that you made. I don't think shrink tube is safe to use with gas, so you might have issues with it deteriorating. The return line that you ran though the vent pipe should have been extended to the bottom of the tank because the fuel returning to the tank will aerate. AN fittings are 37 deg and a regular flare is 45 deg be careful they might leak
I love ur vids I am restoring a 1986 firebird sport coupe berlintta and was wandering how to maintenance the back hatch motor? And how much was the engine and trans swap cost to get down the road?
I never really had to touch my hatch motor, so far its still working...I would say a basic swap running would be around 3500-5000, you’ll be closer to 3500 if you get the motor, trans, and accessories from a junkyard.
Im doing a 5.3 swap and using a similar setup, what did you do with the evap line? can i just plug it
Do you have any fuel starvation issues? On my stock 3rd gen I can shut off the engine when it gets below 1/4 tank.
great video 👌🏾 where is the next video showing how you wired up the fuel pump 😅
Check my playlist on the blower swap. If I documented it, the wiring should come in order after this video.
Just ouy of curiosity. By any chance do you want to sell your door bars from your cage?
So how much horsepower did you have before you put on the blower?
Hey Matt, was wondering why not just use the factory wiring instead?
Its way too thin. The new pump would burn it up pretty easily.
I can't wait to hear that supercharger whine bro!
I know that was the 3/8 feed line that you did but was the other line the 5/16 return line you did? I've heard the 6an fitting wouldn't work on the 5/16 line
I used the 3/8 vent as my return and used the factory 5/16 return as the vent.
@@lsxmatt look. Thanx
Great video...well explained. New subscriber 👍🏾
Thankyou!
When you cut the factory power and ground off from the sender connector, did the sender (purple wire) still operate your fuel gauge fine? Just found out my aeromotive 340 burnt that whole connector in my tank. I'm going to bypass it just as you did.
Yea gauge works perfect👍
Hey @LsxMatt, of the four pump lines coming out, which are used, what did you do with others?
The two larger ones I use for supply and return. One was already supply and the other 3/8 is a vent. The two smaller ones are evap and the factory return line. I used one of the smaller lines for the vent and the remaining evap got capped. I’m using a vented gas cap.
@@lsxmatt Thank you for helping me with the final piece for my fuel system, hopefully, this can also help others. Now to get a harness and jump on lt1swap.com
I was trying to find the vid on u doing the rest of the fuel hook up after the trap door vid i.m following you on the vids I have a 350 carb Camaro swapped from a v6 so fuel hook up is pretty much the issue
If you needed to push more fuel which way would you go about it? I need a -8 feed and -6 return, there's not much for after market on thirdgens for the factory tank. I'm thinking maybe a sump and external pump but I hate external pumps lol
Whats your pressure at right now? You can always raise it a little, but that will only take you so far.
Cars not running yet, 5.3 gt45 btr stage 2 I have everything I need for the engine, but I'm a little unsure what to do with the fuel system I wanna do it once and be done
Is that submersible wire? I've been looking for some 12ga submersible wire. I've also had several people say that the fuel can wick up through the wire. Seems far fetched, but was wondering what your experience was.
I used Teflon coated wire that I got on Amazon a whileee ago. If you can’t find any you can always use some PTFE heat shrink tubing and coat the whole wire with it. That’s weird, I never heard the thing with the fuel making its way up through the wire..
She flies alread, sounds good, check out the holley hydramat
Camaro Rick Yooo its Camaro rick
4thGenDude whats up brother! Just living my 3rd gen life again through LSXMatt TV lol
Camaro Rick haha. I got rid of my third gen 4 days ago for a bike
Nice, What bike did you buy? I still have my Buell, Be safe bro!
Quick question so if I'm going from a carb motor with mechanical fuel pump can I just add the pump to the original sending unit or is it more to it ??
You should be able to make the carb sending unit work.
Are those other two lines coming out of your sending unit for evap or something? Just checking because I don't see where they go in this video. I am getting ready to do this to my 91 Firebird so I really appreciate these videos!
Ones a vent line, ones evap, then the other two are supply and return.
@@lsxmatt thanks man I actually just watched your other video where you cut the trap door and you explain it there lol my bad
Was this a injected car when you bought it? Since it got return lines on the tank and such?
Yea it was a 2.8 MFI.
Hey Matt question for ya ... Today i am working on a 4th gen ... Are the dimensions for the fuel door the same for a 4th gen ?
Honestly I have no idea!
What did you do with EVAP lines / system? Or are they "pluggable" with EGR delete in ECM? Have my LS pulled from my old van, and putting together plans to swap into my 83 Camaro. Thanks
are you talking about the four outlets on stock fuel unit, I need to find out which outlets i need and what to do with others
Sick pulls brother..stay safe!!
Traded even for a honda valkyrie
Keep up the great content, bro.
Yet another awesome video, thanks man! one question tho, have you ever considered going with a 4th gen fuel tank? I hear they are better for road racing and autocross.
I thought about it, but never really new of the benefits. I’ll probably add it to the list👍
Where did you get your seats from
Check out corbeau’s website. I got mine used.
Question, which sending unit did you get? I’m going from 305 tbi to 5.3
Your stock unit will work, just upgrade the pump. I suggest a walbro 400lph or 450lph(E85 safe). That way, if your future has a turbo in it, you already have the pump to provide enough fuel.
Great video as always. Thank ya mah dude
I thought An fittings were 37-degree flares and brake line fittings 45 degree flares
Single flares are 37 degrees, double flares are 45. Single’s can’t be used on brake lines, they have to be either iso bubble or double.
@@lsxmatt If that's an SAE flare tool then it's 45* (used for refrigeration, water lines, various copper lines...), the only 37* flairs are AN and JIC (special hydraulic fittings which match the AN fittings but are cut to a less exacting standard, there's also a Parker hydraulic fitting standard which uses 30* flares and a Japanese one that uses 37* flares and metric threads). Unless you went out and ordered a special AN or hydraulic fitting tool that's a 45* flare (37* flaring tools usually have blue boxes so they stand out from the standard ones).
The second problem you have there is that those tube nut/ferrule assemblies are designed for use with aluminum tube.
You may never see a problem from this, but you've created a situation where you have the seal being made by a single point of contact rather than a flat face, allowing it to pivot when it vibrates and it''s a steel tube pivoting against an aluminum ferrule that will wear and loosen. Of course, a properly done aluminum an -8 fitting joint has a pressure rating starting at 500psi, so you likely have a little bit of leeway there until wear from vibration causes a problem.
Old video, but don’t use the brake flare tool!! Found out the hard way myself. An fittings use different degree than the brake line flare is.. you will end up with a small contact when using this tool. Found out with my trans line, then a customers fuel injected lines! Buy the right tool! Same concept
An is 37 degree, automotive or SAE? are 45. I don't think you have the right tool. An AN flare tool is not something you find in a parts store. I'm surprised they are not leaking. Another issue is the factory tube. It's usually welded, and has a seam on the inside. That's why they use double flares on automotive applications. It puts the smooth outside surface of the tube as the seat for the fitting. On my car (84 Camaro) the seams caused the fuel lines to leak. I was able to polish them out with a tootsie roll abrasive.
So awesome thanks for all the info.
I know you will but, make sure everything you did is sealed up tight. You will smell gas inside your car. That’s how I found out someone had cut the floor in my car, and they did a hack job. But I cleaned it up. Of course I bought the car used.
I’ll find out soon enough, but everything seems to be sealed up good. Only thing I’m going to change is the wire grommet with a bulkhead fitting in its place.
what rims do you have on your car
Stock c5 vette wheels. 18 inch.
This is a very good idea.
Walbro 400 that's correct?
Yea thats what Im running with the blower. Before I had a 255.
Can I use walbro 255 ? For 5.3 Ls engine
Oh yea a 255 would be fine. A single 255 is good for around 500hp.
LsxMatt
I assume the other lines of the sending unit are obsolete now. Did you block them off or anything like that to prevent any fuel odor ?
What size must the line be?
Stock lines are 3/8, so if you want to adapt them for an fittings you need to use -6an.
@@lsxmatt which lines did you use and what to do with the others
Great Video!!!
Great Work!!!
These videos help lots!!!
GTA Sammy TGO
Great Video!!! Great work!!!
Thanks for your help,
GTA Sammy TGO
Yeah you’ve got easy to follow content but the true tech advice is not really good quality . Brake lines are 45 degree AN is 37 plus a single flare is not very reliable unless it’s stainless
Yea I had no idea the flare angle was different on -an. I bought the right tool for when I need to do this on my trans am.
Sorry. I just can't get beyond the music mix. Just an fyi.