How to level a pier and beam house
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- I forgot to mention in this video that winter is the best time of year to get under the house. Summer is as hot as hell!!! The amateurs who came before me did that with the beams, not me. The beams should be lapped.... I replaced the cinder blocks with solid cinder blocks. I like a firm platform for the beams to rest on. But, turning them on the sides does weaken them.
"You may think this is something you cant do but you can do it, you wouldnt be watching this video if you didnt think you could at least a little bit" man, I kinda needed that !thanl you! ❤
Absolutely loved when he said this!!! Definitely needed to hear that! :)
My home was built in 1930 and I am starting this project tomorrow 3/27/24. This video better explains the process to get my home completed. Thank you
67 year old widow. Gonna do it my self. Yours is the best video so far.
Let me know how it goes for you.... I'm contemplating on doing this myself
I need to replace the sills on one side of the house(it's a double sill) so I'm watching YT videos that best match my situation. Yours caught my attention because I'm probably going to be using jacks. I appreciate the tip on raising the jacks a little at a time because too much could cause the sill to break. I know it's common sense but silly mistakes still exist.Your video was made with first timers in mind.Thank you for making it look a little more easier. Have a great day.
Dude. Thank you so much. You are so humbly informational it makes me believe in mankind again.
Big help sir. I had one Jack and was having concerns so I looked up a video. I’m going to get another before I begin. Thank you for your help!!
Great video! My wife and i are in the process of purchasing an 1857 home. The rear corner has a slightly crumbled brick foundation causing the floors to sag about 2 inches. This video really helped me with my "plan of attack". Stay safe!
I work on foundations like this for a living. You did good man!! You can throw a vapor underneath that home as well to prevent moisture from getting up in the beams/sub flooring. Another good footing that will hold is 16 inch abs pads!
4/30/24 I have to do this to my house and I have never done this type of work. Thank you for posting
Hello! Thank you so much for you video! My mom and I are going to attempt to do this ourselves. Our home was brought over to our land in 1965. It has never been leveled again. Last year we had water sitting under our home and did not realize it. Once we did it was too late. Now it is time to get to work!
Wow
outstanding video, i've been doing a lot of repair on my early 1900's house ... paid less then twenty grand for her. so i haven't complained too much about foundation issues and rot and termite damage just lit in and replaced what i had to.. had to repour some concrete on top of the existing foundations as they were poured beneath hand hewed beams which the termites ate.. and they were not square flat nor level so i had no level place to put new beams.. the concrete repour worked gangbusters... got it all squared away new beams joists and plywood put down.. i actually made a stain out of steel wool, distilled white vinegar and a little baking soda that stained all the new wood... it fooled the inspector when he came to inspect some of my plumbing.. i was afraid if he knew i replaced a bunch of joists he would have required a permit and made me bring the whole house up to today's code standards.. my lil house has stood since about 1907 and i truly just wanted to repair what was there and keep the integrity of it.. didnt want to tear it to the ground and rebuild.. so far its looking great.. i got one area that i may take some photos of and send you if you don't mind i need a bit of advice.. anyways thanks for the video its been very informative.
What state are you located? Just curious..i just bought a similar house in fort worth tx
You did a good job with this video. Just plain ole explaining what you did and why. I'm having to add some piers on my porch for failure on my part to plan ahead. I didn't think about using metal plates and didn't know or think of using cedar that way. Thanks for posting!
Thank you so much. There is not a lot online to show in detail how it’s done. Thanks again. Super helpful. 👍💯
In the middle of leveling an old home. Just wanted to pick someone else’s brain and I see that I’m right in line with my thinking. Thanks for the video 👌
This is a great video!!! Extremely informative! It really opened my eyes to exactly what I may be paying for and gives me some knowledge (power) as I either try to negotiate a contractor to level my 72-year-old house (or perhaps even attempt to do it myself with the help of some ambitious friends. Thanks so much for sharing!!!
I'm currently having my old house on cinderblocks leveled. This is very helpful for questions for me to ask the foundation company that is doing if for me.
Good. I ultimately replaced these cinder blocks with solid ones to add strength and stability.
I’m in the processing of purchasing a old home & yea good info
Doing this to my house. Thanks for making the video!
getting ready to do this tom. This seemed REALLY helpful and simple. Hope so in my case too. THanks for posting
brandon shinn how did it go?
Thank you for the tips on working with an external beam. I’m a complete beginner so still not clear on how to take this do’s and don’ts excerpt, and use it to level the entire house.
I love the tip about the cedar. You are correct they hate it. Great advice.
Termite shields are preferred with most homeowners and contractors. One little 1/2" or 1/4" piece of wood will not stop at termite from crawling up it. A termite shield is not 100% effective, but it covers the whole pier/post.
Very informative... im a first time home buyer and i will have to do this sometime this year... this video a great starting point... thanks for sharing.
Thank you in 2020, year of hell. Your videos are still helping people. I subscribed because of this one.
I rather pay you to repair my house, you do seem so honest in what your sharing & doing. My old home was wrecked by Hurricane Harvey. One level man wants $10,500 to repair all except adding more them long long thingies, he wants 1100 more for 4 more additional and he's not laying the subfloor. I don't know the first thing about fixing, building or repairs to a house. All I do is cook, sleep, dance, eat in them. SMH.
Same here.
I have an older home I bough and will probably need to level it. Thanks for the info now I can ask informed questions and know who does and doesn't know what their doing.
I'm thinking of purchasing a house that is over 100 years and the previous owner gutted the whole thing even removed the bathroom. The number one thing we have to do is foundation. They started and we're unsure for the reason they just stopped but its a serious project. This video gave me the confidence my husband and I can do this. Just curious if you answer questions and can give advice if we go through with this? Its always nice to have an adviser.
Sure! I can answer questions for you.
@@aaroncitius11 Thank you for responding. We really see the potential to this house. But man did they do a number to it. Once we finalize everything with buying - I will share a photo so you can see what I'm talking about. Have a great night.
Nice job. I'm in the process of lifting a old house it's sagging about 4" . I'm using same system but only required 4 20 ton stubbys
Lol I'm not moving a House why did I witsh this lol. Good job.
Great video! Can you lift a house that on pier and beam that is in a flood zone and adding dirt underneath it, so it becomes above the flood zone?
Absolutely
Thanks, I'm going to the country to do this for my Mom & Dad.. Much Success to you..!!
Man that looks just like my house. I have a similar project.
Great, realistic video. You have been of great help.
S. Barry Hamdan
When you are under it in the middle fixing the midspan beam is the best part. Nothing quite like listening to the house crack and pop while you're laying under it lol. For those that are wondering, no I'm not in any real danger doing that. The jack could magically disappear and the house would just fall a short distance and hit the piers. Worst actual case is a seal fails in the jack and the house slowly settles back down.
Thank you for this video!!! I have been searching for hours to find some info on post and beam construction. I have a camp on a lake that needs a beam replaced. my situation is an uncommon problem. What happened is my uncle put a deck on the lakeside beam without flashing his ledger board!!! So the beam is totally rotten. If you can help me with a few questions I would really appreciate it. Some background : I inherited the camp from my grandfather who was a builder/contractor with a relatively big company (about 6-10 employees depending on the job.I was really close with my grandfather because I was his only grandson. My mother was his only child. So I spent summers working for him ever since I could carry a bundle of shingles. lol......so I'm just saying I grew up around a family of contractors and I am a contractor myself. But the only time I have done any foundation work was leveling the camp im talking about when I was around 12 years old (so very little experience). In my situation if the rotten beam was perpendicular to my joists I would be a lot more confident replacing the beam by holding up the joists with a temporary beam and cribbing. But the beam I am replacing runs parallel to my joists and its throwing me off. Im trying to figure out how to hold the weight to rplace both the beam and the rim joist. Its funny I have not come across a video with anyone replacing a beam like mine. lol I really need this camp to stay up because im so close to the lake I could never rebuild this. So if you could find some time to help me out corresponding with pictures and what not I would send you some $ through paypal or something. I really need to get to it this year before another winter (im in Maine by the way). Ive done all sorts of different jobs but never one like this. the camp is on a hill/slope making things more difficult. And the beam I need to replace is 75" so around 6 feet off the ground. So its just the worst case scenario for me. Ive contacted a few companies but they are all too busy. I can get help with friends and neibors to help lug cribbing and everything but im just nervous being the g.c. on this particular job. Let me know if you can help and I can send you some oics and get a few pointers from you. Sorry about such a long comment but its even tricky to explain my situation. lol
Thanks for putting this together, great information.
Hi i was watching your video and i enjoyed it but i have a question will i need cut waterline before I do a foundation on the old house frame house
Possibly. It just depends on if you think the foundation work could rupture a waterline. The answer is most likely yes.
Thank you for putting this video out. It was really helpful.
Great vídeo. I am about to do this my self. Old house floor has water damage. Taking the subfloors off and leveling the house and reinforce foundation
Where did you purchase the 16"x16"x4" pads for your concrete blocks? I can't locate them anywhere here in central Ohio!
Are there alternative materials to use for the pads?
Thanks,
Tom
Home Depot
I have a shed built by Lowe's that was turned into a cabin. The contractors ran 3 rows of 4x4 beams and simply put cinder blocks underneath. One corner has sunk so I'm contemplating pouring a concrete pad for that corner. The difficult thing to figure out is the outside beams are about a foot in from the wall and I'm not sure where to put my jack or which way to turn the cement block under the beam (parallel or perpendicular). I've had it jacked up before so we could get under to plumb, and the person who did that thought it best to support both these beams and the end of the joists on the same single block pier. The beam is sitting right on the edge of the block perpendicular, while the weight of the outside wall is on the other side of the block. It doesn't seem the best placement of the blocks to me. I tried jacking up on the beam with the jack sitting on the bottom 4 inch solid blocks, but it just made one sink. So I moved over a bit but the jack is now NOT under a floor joist and that makes me nervous. So I've decided to move the jack to the outside wall about 2 feet from the corner since it will be under a joist and the wall. I'm also thinking of putting another jack around the corner, but the problem there is its just a single floor joist (no, the contractors did not double the rim, if you can call a floor joist a rim) and I'm nervous about it moving it I put a jack under it but I think this added support would be an advantage. Any suggestions?
“10 years ago” what a legend
ok so I have a question.........The new beam you have here?? 2-2x6's ? My fiance' (we were together 13 1/2 years) just passed the end of April.......and we were in the midst of a remodel.......I have to finish myself and have no $ to pay anyone......Our perimeter wall to our kitchen, 8' (very small house) it HORRIBLE!! termite and weather rot.........I understand I can put a beam under the existing floor joist, and we do have those same jacks........but I'll also do the same exact (is what we planned actually) pad, block and the cedar was new to me, but I like it. Can you possibly let me know if I'm on the right track? My search stopped me at your video, its the closest "view" of what I'm gonna have to deal with. I would so much appreciate it and would be very thankful. I'm 63 and I dont want my house to worsen cause I'm not gonna get any younger. Thank you
I am using double layered 2x6's but you could use 2x8' and that would only add strength. Without seeing it in person, I really can't say what you should do. I wish you the best. You can learn a lot if you keep researching. So, keep learning until you feel comfortable working on it yourself.
Thx Brah.. That really gave me great info.. I’ll take it step by step.
Great vid... but at a lil after 4 mins in at top right hand is
of screen you can see evil cat eyes lol
Greetings, great video among many! Ive just bought a 1920s house in an old woodmill town. Beams are huge and burly, but sitting on regualr bricks that are crumbling, sunk, or the edges of the wood are rotted. The floor is slopping in corners. My question is about installing the new 2x6 beams youve added. Where did you jack/support the house in order to remove the old and install the new. That is vital knowledge and was skipped over in the video. Do you support each joist? Maybe put a pieace of lumber or metal spanning across multiple joists so you can lift them all at once? Thanks.
Currently doing this now. I have 6 jacks supporting the 6 joists at a time. Get as close to the ends as possible. I also built supports inside as a precaution for the wall and roof. The home only had on beam that was rotted so i needed to add a whole new 2 beam system. Took me about 3 months to do everything from removing enclosure/siding. Adding level bases figuring out where to support and so on. Almost done with first level phase and adding new piers. Old ones sagged quite a bit.
Can you jack up a house where the wall and first story floor are attached to the top of the footing?
Hello looking for advise if you don't mind reading this
I have a small 16' x 22" lake cabin built in the 1920's . I has vintage wood shiplap siding .It will make a good rental once I can fix this issue. The lumber is super high quality. They built it on one course of block laid on the dirt with no concrete footer . The idiots should have dug a footer 48" deep.. The corners of the cabin have sunk along with the corner block. 1 to 2 " drop at the corners. .There are slider windows that won't slide open until I get it level. I have some bottle jacks, and 4 auto jacks with steel posts to lift the corners. I want to jack the first 8' from each corner and level the corners ,so 16' front and back will be completely supported . The 22' side walls ,don't really need complete support which makes me think this method will be a big time saver option . The middle section of the 22' walls, is still level with the current no footer set up . I will have the option to work on supporting the middle later if necessary. Compared to this method, I was going to do more work than I possibly needed to, to get it level, and after watching this. I am curious if lifting structures like this is code legal in all states? I am going to look at some screw jacks for continuous adjustments also. Thanks for posting I gives me another option as long as it is legal in Michigan ? I am concerned with breaking windows also when lifting it. I will have to lift in small increments I imagine? Thanks
So you leave those blocks there? I thought you had to pour new concrete posts. I have a lot of those laying around my yard 🤔
@@junehat4217 I ended up using solid blocks.
Its my understanding that termites do not like the heartwood of cedar. The fence post you cut up I think is made of sapwood. This might have a small amount of termite resistance but over time will lessen substantially more than the purple colored heartwood. Thanks for the video.
i have a 20x20 cabin i am about to level, and i just upgraded to toe jacks. they're great
Execellent. Excellent. EXCELLENT! Thank You! This is very helpful. I have a question. Do you find that this causes seperation in your plaster or drywall?
Thanks! In some places it can. You just have to go back and fix those places.
I thought about buying a few jacks as well. Then pumping them up a little at a time so I don't crack the beams. I might do this myself. Save thousands of money for the inside remodel 🧐🥴
Did you use shims to re level it or what and don’t you have to jack it up slowly over a few days time?
How thick of cider wood? Thats a great tip. My contactor is doing my foundation , my house waz built 1940.
Thank you for your video! Where do you get your steel plates?
I make them.
Thanks for the info. My grandma's house is very unlevel, even though she's paid twice to have it leveled by ripoff artists. This time I'd like to do it myself. So I buy at least 5 or 6 jacks, the square concrete pads, cinder blocks, the shims, the cedar, the iron squares, and a bug bomb. Is there a general rule of thumb on the spacing, like one block/pad every 4 feet? Or is it 6? How do you determine at first just how high to jack it up? Isn't there something like you find the highest corner and use that as a guide on how much to bring the beams up? The floors are so messed up in the house that I'm wondering if using a laser light/level would work. Do you only jack up the outer part of the house, or can you also go under specific rooms toward the center and add support under there too? Sorry for so many questions, but you seem so honest and helpful!
A laser level may help at the end for finer adjustments but at first I always go off of sight. There are no rules. You just have to be kind of natural engineer and provide support wherever you see sagging.
aaron citius Well my brother is a mechanical engineer, so between him and myself I know we can figure it out. It's always best to try to gather as many tips and hints beforehand from people such as yourself with experience. Thanks.
In the process of doing this. Exact same construction. How did you tie the joist to the beam? Vertical 2x6’s ran across the end of the joist?
Lovely home
hey aaron. our question is: when you are lifting the house, does it disturb anything inside the house and can a family just live there while the lifting is going on? important detail to us. thanks.
Shouldn't be an issue.... I didn't see anything to suggest the contrary when I lifted my house though I wasn't living there yet. Lifting a house can damage a house through. The framing will usually be alright and not be disturbed too much if the house is lifted slowly, but things like bathroom tiles might crack and drywall joints (especially ones installed while the house was already settled) will suffer. Countertops might become slanted, and doors and windows.may not close anymore. Plumbing may become disconnected. Know how to turn off your water and gas at all times, and smell for gas leaks, check for stressing of plumbing and electrical.
I have an old house that needs to be lifted and leveled. Should I have jacks all round the whole house and slowly lift one then the other down the line all the way around or do I need some one on each side of the house front and back and we all lift slowly down the line of jacks on every side?? Also do I have to get a permit to do it? I prefer not to but just wondering. Thanks in advance for your response, Kim
Jacks should be under all beams and not just perimeter beams. Permit would depend on location. However, if it's your house and you're leveling it yourself, then I think you'd be less likely to need a permit.
Good video 👍 I’m gonna level our house 🏡
Im about to take on my own house here in Louisiana thanks for the info. Just wondering though what you did to ensure beam was level? Water Level? Excuse my ignorance lol first time Ive done it and wanna make sure I get it right. Just as you said........ guy that built this house and didnt center the blocks and one side sinking on the pad and other pads have completely sunk in the ground blah.
Take a marble into the house and set it on the floor. It will follow gravity and roll if it’s not level. Make adjustments based what that marble does.
I am purchasing a 1935 farmhouse in Oregon that has a pier and post foundation. Thanks for the video. When you jack the beam, is there a particular order that you followed? Thanks in advance.
+Andy Thingvall no particular order. Just don't do anything dangerous. You only have one life.
Andy Thingvall did you end up trying to level your house in Oregon? I'm looking at a house with some leveling needs in Eugene.
Where did you start? The front of our grandparents house is just inches off the ground and the it is almost 5 feet in the back. Do you check the inside of the house first to see what is the most uneven? Any and all help would be great. Do you have any other videos? Thank you!!
How do you jack the corner of the house? Since you can't place two jacks on the bearer.
I'm trying to level my house and having a hard time figuring the corners out :/
Did you just do the outside or did you do another section four feet in?
All of it. I did the entire house and I ended up using solid cinderblocks.
Instead of wooden shims, I buy cheap plastic cutting boards and cut them up. They won't compress like wood and of course, termites don't eat then
how do you know how much off the house is? Where do you measure to figure out where it is sloping etc
@@kennethmortonstudios it depends on how precise you need to be. If you just need it to look level, then you can use the naked eye. If it needs to actually be perfectly level then use a level instrument.
We need to do our 1910 home. The central 3 room fireplace is holding up the center & all other rooms have slanted off from there. Even the attic! My question is when we start lifting should we only adjust a small amount per week to allow the house to keep up? I was told if not we will crack all windows & door frames/walls & so on. I just need to know how slow, like 1 inch per week slow? lol Thank you, great video! 😊
Lisa Johnston … When leveling only a section of an older home it's more like 1/4" per week then wait for things to catch up. Yeah, sounds slow, but I went through this with my 100 year old house years ago. The hardest thing to keep up with is drafts along the foundation if it's cold out. You can use fiberglass insulation and make minor adjustments as you raise things. OTOH, that won't keep out the mice. Just keep setting mouse traps while you work and eventually you can address the foundation gap in the end. BTW, when jacking, you raise, then shim the gap with something solid, and never leave the home on the jack for an extended time.
Any points on a three-beam or four beam scenario? I just moved into a 9050's Texas build with my mom (The food is good!). I guess I'm curious if there's a faster strategy to taking up carpet and flooring to achieve inner house beams. Also, apparently, we came from a build of infrastructure where these houses just ran pipes according to necessity. I have a single sewage pipe running laterally with the house that broke. to a septic tank.
I'm pretty keen but you seem wise to this regard, I fix guitars for a living. I appreciate the knowledge.
i'm a 66yr old man and not in the best of health but being on fixed income i have to start saving for the 20ton jacks
Great Job! I do have a question: Can you use 4x6 or must it be (2) 2x6?
marissa brown 4x6 beams can be used as well. I wouldn’t use anything smaller that a doubled 2x6 tho. (Ex. 2x4s)
How would you do one that has a very small window to get underneath the house? The floor is sagging 9 plus inches in the middle of the room
Somebody has to get under there and lift it up. It may not be easy. But, where there's a will, there's a way.
I know this video is old, but i have a question. I am looking a leveling a house where the addition, which is 60 years old has sank around 4 inches. Do you work from out in to in ? or in to out when leveling ? to give you an idea about how bad this house has settled, the Kitchen counter snapped.
You'll really need the try to level it all at once if the house needs to be raised significantly. You'll go back and forth between piers building up each one a few centimeters at a time.
@@aaroncitius11 thank you! It is a bit overwhelming at the moment.
@@starfox1340 you can do it though. Be careful.
I like your video I’m try to leave my house
Great Video,,lots of teaching,,Learned a Lot,My house is close to the Ground,would be hard to get under neaf,,any Ideal ,,THANKS
This may seem a little extreme but if you have carpet you can pull it up at the place where the floor is low and cut an access to the underside of the house through the subfloor. Just be sure the saw blade is set to cut only the depth of the subfloor and make the cut following the center of the floor joist so when the job is done all you will need to do is screw the subfloor back in place and roll the carpet back.
I suggest digging trenches parallel with the beams. They will create pinpoint crawl space where you need it and give you access to parts of the house that are otherwise not accessible.
Good Video , it really help and you did give out great advice ,maybe I should hire you my brother .
Great video.
What if the beam is rottened out. How would you replace it?
That's another video. But, yes you do replace it if it's rotten.
I get the basics of this, but how do you make sure that the house is level? We bought a house that needs work, but you can tell it is not level, it tilts to the rear and left side.
to level a surface i always use a level, you can find them by feet, and if the area is too long for a level, use a laser level, water, line etc. but if leveling the wall is complicated, would be better to hire a professional to do the job
We have a building and half of it is sagging about 6 inches over about 60 feet. Actually, half the building is sagging and the other side is fine. How would you level half the building. You only have a foot under the house. Would you have to remove the floor and use the jacks on the inside of the house? Thanks
You could do that, but you could also dig trenched under the house and crawl into the trenches to access the beams.
in the process of digging a trench as we speak. Holy cow. lol. Lots of work. I need laborers.
Thank you. Great info.
How did you get the beam in all at
Once
suposing soporting the old beam and in parallel inserting the new one
Why not pressure treated beams?
That would be best. I'm just fixing somebody else's mess here.
What about the water lines and restroom pipes when u lift it up
You may have to cut those and reconnect after the leveling process is complete. But, maybe not... It just depends on how the plumbing was installed.
@@aaroncitius11 ok thanks for the reply
Thank you :)
Say the house is elevated three cinder blocks high. What do you extend the reach of the jack with? 4x4? Is it better to elevated Jack or to have a long post?
Elevated Jack on timber. It'll break blocks and bricks.
Is this house full of furniture and we really need to do ours and im not sure where to start..
Have a cinder block foundation supporting two old army barracks where on section sagging. Is there any way to do this without removing the original foundation?
I don't see why you couldn't level it on the old piers.
2 story 1960s house that is unlevel est of 15k to level we sre going to follow this video and attempt
When it rains, rain water collects under the house for weeks. Sinking further the house. I’ve lifted and leveled but water still collects what do you suggest I do? Lifting entire house isn’t an option. What do you recommend?
Keeping the water out is something that you need to try. Maybe check the skirting around the house.
French drain.
@@e.s.8684 that could work.
What’s the best way to precisely find a sagging wall that needs to be raised from your crawl space? Thanks
Use a level or a marble on the floor and see which way it rolls.
great video.. thanks for the vid
I am considering buying an older home built in 1959. It is unlevel. Some of the supports (cinder blocks with the holes in them) have fallen and some are broken. It is a very small house, 960 sq. feet. You said there was another beam under the house that you would do the same. How many feet are there between beams? Is it according to the size of the house? I really would like to save money by doing this myself, but even if I can't, at least I will have this info so I will know if it is being done correctly.
Also, some of the beams have rotted and are going to have to be repaired. Any DIY info on that project?
The video was very informative and I appreciate it.
Depending on the size of the beam 4x4 every 4ft, 4x6 every 6ft and 6x6 every 8ft same with the piers/block's. I would recommend getting the solid 8"x16"x8" blocks with a 16"x16"x4" pad. To remove a rotted beam, put a 4x4 a few feet away parallel to the rotted beam block 4x4 tight an picked it up with some hydraulics to release pressure off rotted beam (always put hydraulics underneath floor joist so beam or 4x4 doesn't break & always block with pieces of wood for safety lifting anything just in case hydraulics slip or fail. Also use a steel plate on top of hydraulics and 2"x6"x2ft wood underneath hydraulics), also to allow enough space for new beam cut off rotted beam, old nails, put new beam in, strap down with strong tie s straps. Remove blocks from 4x4 support and lower hydraulics.
Im working on old house right now..wood post piers....100 yr old, water and termites allowed to destroy everything along side of house, just trying to keep it from getting worse.
But, when you show one of the old original post's I noticed the dirt around it was not disturbed...for inspection... I had one that looked ok, poked at it a bit and the entire post was eaten all the way through by termites....
thanks nice video.
Excellent Thank you!
I love your videos man
Just saw this video..my question is do you relevel the house to highest point?
Usually, since settling is usually the issue. But, you can raise the whole house.
Did you use a lazer level?
@@tylercarriere3622 I did not.
Great video! Are you available for hire to do this?
Sometimes in the Winter ❄️ time. It just depends on the job and its location.
@@aaroncitius11 thank you. Do you have contact info I can pass along to a family member?
When putting the blocks down, do I need to dig down to the base layer?
Yes, you need firm footing. I use pads, but ideally you would have piers drilled into bedrock.