Leveling FLOORS in our 100 year old Farmhouse! Fixer upper
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- How to level floors in an old house! How we leveled our floors in our Farmhouse. Watch us take on the task of fixing all the low spots in our old fixer upper before we tackle the kitchen remodel.
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Nothing about that floor looks 100 years old. 1947 is more realistic.
I guess that means my work is successful. UA-cam comment cretics are so interesting. Facts and truth are only correct if they think so. Then as follows there first reaction is to scream from a hilltop about what they think isn’t true. It always makes me so curious why. Thanks for watching.
My 100 year old farm house has no subfloor.
I am curious. When raising a floor to level in any house. How does this affect plumbing pipes? We just bought a 1910 farm house and this very thing needs to be done in some areas of the home. 99% sure the house is sitting on joists somewhat like this. Some of the doors are out of alignment due to being out of level, second story windows are sitting crooked as well. She has great bones, just needs some love to bring her back. It's a three generation home, with only a second owner, we will be the third. Any advice would be great!
@@LittleDreamersFarm I agree about the youtube critics the commenter didn't watch the whole video and commented on the scenes showing your new framing. I remodel and build homes for a living many of those i repair being from as early as 1890. The lumber we use today isn't the same nor the technology we use to process it . Prior to around 1964 we used true dimensional lumber aka 2x8 means 2 in by 8 in. After that time we switched to todays standard which would be 1 1/2 inches x 7 1/4 inches even though we still call it a 2x8. The largest change would be the use of tree farmed wood vs old growth that would have prettified and change color over that time.
All three of these as shown in your video .
1: Ruff sawn tree used as girder 14:43
2: Petrified saw girder distinguished by color 7:48
3: On the same girder you can tell it's dimensionally different from the beam shown here 15:50
My only grip is pour a footer under your supports and mechanically bond them per code.
Thanks for the video
@@wind5250 In the critic's defense, that is a beautifully clean and uniform crawlspace. My hundred year old crawlspace looks nothing like that.
Thank you, I'm 70 years old and my house was built in 1947. I used your video to put support under the house for addition of walk in the and 50 gallon hot water tank. Speaking of cleanliness once I picked up all the garbage left by plumbers and electricians over the years mine is just as clean. Did I mention I am a female
Nice work!! Thank you for watching!
As I was just thinking could I do this, I read your comments! Had to do a double take that you say you are 70 and a woman! You have inspired me to at least try! Thank you!
We just got an estimate of 23K to have this done to our house!
Now I’m thinking we could do it ourselves! Thanks for sharing!
@@joydeussen5711 anyone can do anything slow and steady wins the race
@@TampaCatGirl I was just thinking that I could do this to my house- as a 66 year old female. Saw your comment and that made up my mind! Let’s go grannies!!
That's the cleanest crawl space I've ever seen. Looks about like a new house underneath.
I'm face to face with this situation. On a friend's home. He is looking at me with shaking head as I explain air vents being used to bring in beams. I showed him this remarkable filmed video, and now his head is nodding with a different attitude that should get his floor shored back up with no arguments. Thanks for all the time you sacrificed video shooting a job as difficult as this one is. Working in crawl spaces is an experience even professionals wish were avoidable. Big round of cheers to the wife she is a special gal. Mine would have waited till I got under house and drove off to her parents house. Lol
Doin' work! That may be the cleanest crawl space I've ever seen.
Yea it’s been a job! Haha thanks. I wish we had video of it before it was crazy nasty!
Shit , I didn’t even see a spider web , spider ,snake , bug or even where the damn neighbors cat has snuck under there and shit and sprayed all over the place !!! I hate going under older homes , I’d give my hind teeth if homes really looked like that !!! Looks like that place was purpose built !! LOL , gotta laugh to keep from crying !!
Looks like someone laid down a tarp!
Thank you for sharing. I’m looking for inspiration to do the same thing to my cabin. How did you get that crawl space so clean? Brooms and shop vacs? Did you lay a tarp over the whole thing? Or was that there? What’s under the support blocks? Dirt? Cement?
@@LittleDreamersFarm how did you clean it?
I have never in 40 years of trading as an historical building renovation, refurbishment, and repairs, specialist engineer, seen such beautiful working conditions under a building of any age. From this I can only assume you work in a clean safe environment at all times.
Good work Geeze 👊🏼👊🏼
Proper vapor barrier.
Not like the homes I have crawled under and leveled
Yeah I'm getting ready to do this under two homes, one built in 1920 and one built in 1890.
Both are getting vapor barrier first, like this for sure!!!
She’s a badass for jumping in on this project, diffidently a keeper!
Yes she is! Thanks for watching man
Shoot, son, I am the wife, and I'm the only one who's going to be doing work and cleaning up in our 100 yr old crawlspace. I couldn't even pay my husband to do renovations, maintenance, or repairs. His logic, though, is that he doesn't know what to do, so he'd rather pay someone else or leave the work to me. I understand where he's coming from, and I enjoy doing the work that I know how to complete. Sometimes, all I need is his strength, and that works out because he doesn't have to think too much.
Following his logic, I hope he is paying you. LOL
😂
I am just a homeowner that has built a few homes and rebuilt a 1927 home which needed extensive rebuilding of joists that were over spanned and undersized. We tore out living room floor for access to work and discovered the 2X6 joists spanning 32 ft were 2 rough cut 20 ft long 2X6 and were supported mid span by a long row of sandstone blocks that had cracked and settled over 90 years, some of the joist were sitting on native soil/sand. We jacked rim joist up from inside, replaced 2x 6 joists with 2X8 speced out by structural architect. But first we removed the row of sandstone blocks, leveled and temp supported structure and poured a bomber concrete footer after digging out crawl space to minimum 18 inch code, we have termites. Built a 3X6 pressure treated stud wall on the long footer with separation from wood and concrete as per code. Installed a nice hickory floor on top and insulated R19 between bays and installed vapor barrier under insulation. I am about to level a 1910 church I just bought and no way will I use hollow cinder blocks as they can catastrophically crack as they have little strength. I will use laser or water level to figure out where the sagging 10X12" beam needs to go, use screw or hydraulic jacks with blocks to temp level, pour concrete footers hopefully to bedrock which is a foot to 18 inches down and use post and beam with thick burly simpson style connectors and adhere to code or better. I suggest your fix is good for a temp fix, but you might consider a more permanent solution. If it was a 2 story structure, the cinderblocks would be very dangerous and a hazard to be under the home. I hope others watching will understand that using cinderblocks as structural piers is not a good solution, especially if you double stack without wood in-between them as they will crack under load better to mix up concrete and form concrete piers with large posts.
I came here to say he should have poured footers and made it permanent.
Must be really arduous to dig in that small space?
Just came across your channel, and I must say, it almost brings a tear to my eye to see a young clean cut couple take on a project of this magnitude, and do it right! You two can do an awful lot of upgrades, just do your research and use common sense, GREAT JOB! America needs more young couples like you.....
Wow! We so appreciate that, thank you! That means a lot! ❤️ Thank you for watching!
People like you make this country great. Thank you for your way of see life and for the videos.
Thats the best !00 yo farm house floor joists i ever saw
Thank you! I wish i had some pictures from when we started it was so horrible. We hired and company to clean the crawl space out and install a vapor barrier. so worth the money. After that it became so easy to get in there and tackle the rest of the needed projects
@@LittleDreamersFarm Thanks for this info! I just bought a century old farmhouse, too, and it needs to be leveled before the roof goes on.
You guys were awesome. You’re fortunate to have a wife that can and will help you with that type work. Thanks for sharing. 👊🏼
Well done guys my wife and I have been building a house together for 4 years , and while some times difficult when you see the end result of your hard work it is so rewarding.
Yes it’s always so great looking at then end result! Best of luck guys thank for watching
And always be positive every single day because for what you built he is proud of you too
Absolutely amazing. You are going through the same thing I am right now. My house was put at it's current location (on 2.53 acres) in 1936 but the house is much older. it sure is coming along great. Best thing is that I purchased it with cash so no mortgage payment or rent.
Very nice outcome. Thought it was very cool that your wife helped(even though she looked like she wasnt happy but did it anyway). Like myself my wife helps me with alot of things like this. All our children are grown so its just she and I. Great to see husband and wife working together. As it should be. Congratulations and thank y'all as this is my next project. ❤
If you're going to use bottle jacks, always put a 1/4" thick metal plate between the top of the jack and your lifting crib. Otherwise you lose lift due to the jack crushing into the cribbing and risk crib blowout and dropping the load. Experience says so. I use 10t screw jacks instead. No risk of a hydraulic seal blowout. Keep up the good work. Old house renovation is a daily adventure.
Thanks so much ! I have a family vacation home that was built in the 1920s … balloon frame … with a crawl space !! So I just went through what you’re doing . I had to build a wall underneath it to get rid of the bouncy floor where you walk !!! Absolutely nothing is 16 on center !!!😃
It was do nice that your Wife helped you. I had to replace 6 foot lolly columns in my 100 year old house. The columns rusted from the inside out. I dug footers. With rebar n high strength concrete. The base of the columns just rusted away to nothing. Luckily there were huge boulders under each column. But I rested each column on a concrete pad from the bolder to 4 inches above ground on the basement floor so they're not in the ground but above ground bolted to the concrete. I also learned they have (saddle plates) wrapping around the main support joists (wood support beam) bolted to the lolly columns. Enjoy your house Pal.
Thank you! She's the best wife ever ;) Sounds like you had quite a job there! Thank you for watching!
So helpful! Even the video showing HOW you got that support beam under there. Thank you!
OMG, what a beautiful kid. You should bring him/her in at the beginning. Want to see the angle again.
Thank you!
Thanks for posting this. My husband and I recently purchased a home that is 122 years old this year...we need all the floors leveled and I can't find anyone local to do it so I'm going to have to do it myself...oh, joy....this video helps! I look forward to seeing more.
How much did it cost to level your home.
Thats the cleanest 100 year crawl space I've ever seen
Thank you
Just bought my first house and I'm going through a similar process. Thanks for sharing your methodology! Looks like the laser level is going to be a necessity for me, too.
I, too, just bought a home over 100 years old. I'm going to have people come out and give me quotes. I'm proposal going to have to do it myself in the long run, and this video really helps.
Owner of a 1920’s shotgun/farm house in north Texas and I do this every couple years, the ground is always moving!
Dig a hole and pour a footing and use 6x6 posts
I have to show my wife this video, I’m a one man show in my crawl space.
Haha that’s normally the case for me too but she really stepped up!
in going to be inheriting a house in the future and this is the first thing I need to do to it before I start the renovation. Plan on going room by room. It was my childhood home which I plan to make some much needed improvements and get it wife approved.
This house you are working under is like a brand new house compared to the nightmare I'm working under.
That's the cleanest crawl space I've ever seen, that place must be in immaculate condition. That crawl space is cleaner than my living room! 🤣🤣
3 weeks later of peeling deteriorated insulation, kicking dirt and dust clouds, I keep getting inspired by how clean and well lit your work area is, as I start jacking up parts of the perimeter, I watch your video over and over, and I’m shocked by how much more depth I get..
Hope the rest of your projects are going well. I’ll be lucky to close up the crawl space this summer 🤞🏻🤞🏻
That’s so great to hear! It gets easier and it’s so worth it in the end. I wish I had photos of when we first bought the place. It look like a dump in a NY city sewer lol no lie. Thanks for the kind words and support.
You guys make such a fantastic team.
It's a delight to watch you work.
😊
May I ask why you guys didn’t use steel plates to shim. Wood compresses over time. We leveled our main beam and used 1/4 inch thick steel shims (4x4 in inches).
Cement sheet does the job as well. Corrosion resistant Steel would be ideal though.
I’m not sure why they would use wood either.. some of the houses I have worked at the floors were initially shimmed with wood and asbestos.. the asbestos held up but where the wood was used it moved significantly.
I think it’s just a cost cutting thing so I’m not sure why these guys use wood for their own house.
Very cool. I don't see what keeps the cinder blocks from sinking into the dirt over time. There does not appear to be a footer under each cinder block. That is my main concern.
With them having so many suppors they aren't carrying as much weight and shouldn't sink much, but they do need a footer, it would be hard to dig footers in there.
I appreciate what you just showed us I'm 80 and I'm crawling underneath the crawl space to relevel the joycees and they're replacing rotten ones. I never thought about placing them
Love the demonstration. Unloading of a structure by jacking is crucial when repairing or replacing members. There are folks hammering shims and beams into place.
I would caution against the use of those types of shims due to the amount of shrinkage that will occur and minimum bearing area requirements for setting a wooden beam on concrete. The biggest challenge is that the material properties of wood differ in every direction possible and the shrinkage will not be uniform. It loosens, one small area ends up carrying all the load, high local concentration of stresses, crushing (beam or CMU), loss of a support point, and a little extra bounce. Check your local codes for minimum bearing area requirements.
Do not allow anyone to make repair or remove structure if they have not investigated the interior to determine what is above the location (aka structure along load path). If they have not investigated and jacked, some will be banging all day trying to squeeze that beam into place.
Good job! That's a lot of work. My house was built in 1912, I'm doing the same kind of stuff.
I have a fieldstone foundation farmhouse that was built in the 1910's, and I'm dealing with this issue. The difference is there is no "crawlspace" to speak of. They literally built the house with only bout 8" of space between the subfloor and the ground. It does have a root cellar and for the most part everything is structurally sound. The house and foundation have maintained perfect homeostasis with the ground and it hasn't moved at all. The issue is for me that to level the house, I have to do it from above and go in with a saw - cut up the old subflooring to reveal the joists and start leveling from there. Since I don't have $120,000 for a complete remodel i'll be doing all the work myself. Thanks for the video!
Wow for as old as it is the crawl space is very clean!!
I’m doing this for a 50 year old 2100 sq ft house by myself … it’s a slow process… thx for the video it’s encouraging
Thank you for posting. I am about to repair a failing joist in my 50+ year old home and your tips on shimming will come in handy.
Nice job, y'all should be proud of yourselves!! My man...your a lucky one to have a wife that will crawl under there with ya is like finding a diamond in the rough💯👊😁
That’s what I keep telling him 😅 thanks for watching!
First of all young man you are very fortunate to have a beautiful wife like that to get under the house with you an help you wow that was impressive but great video was alot of help thank you
I just jacked my center girder beam, 3-2x8's sistered siting on cinderblock piers of 4 to 5 feet apart. I needed 50 ton jacks, bought off Amazon, 20 tons were not enough, brand new defective cheap Torrin jacks from HDepot, only advantage was they are short. The 50 ton are 10 inch minimum height. For temporary footing, dug into dirt 3 inches, and laid in 5 layers of 3/4 plywood squares 2x2 feet. Easily held the weight, but did press the plywood into the dirt a ways. For the shims cut full cover boards over cinderblocks, no wedges, trimmed to proper thickness with table saw. jacked on both sides of the pier shimmed to proper height, move to the next pier. This took us 2 people about 5 hours of work time. House built in 1973, the ground is somewhat sandy.
one way to tell your main girder is straight, eyeball along its length. And check the door frames. A lot of 2nd story bedroom doors, you can tell by looking at the tops of the doors. We jacked each pier seperately and it was ok. Other issue I have is first floor bathroom joists have sagged so need a new shorter girder of maybe 12 feet and 2 piers severla feet in on both ends of new girder. We have slate entrance foyer held fine and upper story bathroom tile floors, nothing cracked. Honestly was concerned, but it is like a reinforced slab, hard to crack.
These jacks worked and are not too expensive. I bought two.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CS6KCOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you. I'm a pretty handy person. I just bought a house where the middle of the floor is noticeably lower, and I was terrified of the cost to hire a contractor. Because of your video, I will be able to do this to my house myself.
I like the laser level. Now I need one of those. I have 100yr old house I just started to renovate. It's been vacant over 9yrs.
It's been so useful, one of my most used tools now! I have it linked in the description
Gotta love them old low crawls
I have a 110yr old house that i am having to do this to. Its definitely a job
i know your pain
My house was built in 1926 and is sitting on sawmill rough cut lumber. I have to do the exact same thing, in addition to replacing flooring, replacing rim joists and level a corner of the house. I wish I had as much crawl space as ya'll do! I've had to use a folding shovel and dig a trench to get to where I needed to work before. I'm not claustrophobic, I just have a fear of getting stuck! I've learned that 4'x8' was not a start of measurement when this house was built!!! Floor joists are 25", 26" and 27" apart. No subfloor and decking either, just tongue and groove pine flooring nailed directly to the floor joists. I love working on an old house.
I have 150 year old farm style two story house. Front is original, back half was torn off in the 70s and rebuilt. Most rooms have 16ft spans like yours with 2x10 joists. I also had flat boards in the newer sections for mid-span supports which makes no sense. I'd suggest using steel plates between the jack and the wood. Jacking joists might be okay, but moving a load bearing or exterior wall with a heavy duty jack will punch right through the wood before it lifts anything. I could not tell if there was a footing below the new concrete blocks under the encapsulation. Something needs to be under that even if flat treated 2x12s or it will eventually sink. Pouring footings in a tight crawl space is almost impossible without pulling up the floors.
I just had a estimate by two different people. One is a regular contractor and the other were the Amish. They both said the same thing, that my little room off the back of the house should have had footings, I told them no, because the room is held up by logs and they have been there for 31 years. If they lasted that long, I am not worried about jacking them up again and just putting in some shim blocks. They want both wanted about the same amount of $4500 to raise the room back up with out putting in any footings.
Thanks for your video. My sister and her husband just got a house (older house) in TX and they have to level the floor. This video is perfect. Thanks again.
love the video! i just bought a house that was built in 1890 one of the original 6 lots in my town! the floor sags in the middle of the main support area. foundation is good! but def alot of work lol good thing im good with drywall electrical and sweating pipes. i am remodeling it atm and in the 80's they added a garage bathroom and laundryroom before that it was a outhouse that was used!
Thanks for watching! That sound like a cool project especially being one of the first lots in your hometown that’s awesome! Best of luck with it
@@LittleDreamersFarm thank you! Cant wait to watch your prpgressions aswell!
My wife and I are in a very similar position with our sagging floor (in our newly purchased house). High-quality video with great footage. Don't listen to all the Morons/bots in the comments section.
God Bless
Thank you for watching! 🙏
after a recent hurricane, my house was shifted and thrown way off. so I had it leveled. they did a terrible job, so I will have to relevel it myself .this video was very helpful
thanks for watching glad it helped
Good job, it's a reward for us to be able to do it
Holy heck I wish my house was so clean! Built in 1882 with box walls (think like a thick picket fence instead of studs) and a 16" brick foundation with partial basement added later. I've got a porch that the previous owner closed up. Now it has settled from the added weight and no way to get under it. I'm trying to dig it out, get a jack in there, and raise it up before laying cement. Might see about blocks instead if that is a reasonable thing to do.
Have worked in tighter crawl spaces. Leveled many floors over the years.
I couldn’t imagine this one felt so tight. Especially at first took a minute to relax
It's so clean under there
Typically most people put the level on the floor of the crawlspace. With all the irregularities in the floor it may be impossible to find a true level spot. Suggestions right here. Find the high spot of the floor and put the level on that and project from there. This will make all floors true level. When I saw you do this you passed the litmus test right away. Thanks for the video.
Nails are preferred for nailing the three 2x6's together, because they have more sheer strength, then screws. If you have used, say, sheetrock screws, you have made a mistake because they do not have the sheer strength to construct a beam, and you need to get under there and add some nails into the beams, both sides. There are more expensive screws, that you can also use. They are fairly common anymore.
Awesome that’s good advice thank you.
Never use sheetrock screws for fastening structural materials. They are very brittle and easily sheer under load, especially as the load flexes over time. Deck screws and other screws made for construction are made of different metals and are much stronger.
@@markmoore4088 so you agree with my comment (lol).
@@normbograham Yes!
Saving this video! We bought an 80 year old farmhouse that needs some crawlspace work too! Not looking forward to it. I'm just glad we have a little more height to start underneath than what I see in the video. #claustrophobic
Thanks for the support. Once we got under ours and just started working it was so rewarding to see the transformation. It’s well worth the hard work. Thanks for watching!
ive got an 100 yr. old farnhouse in NC, thanks for this it reassures my dicisions on what to do, yours is alot better shape than mine, mine has 100 years of phone wires tv cables dead animals rat poision, ect
I poured new footers and made new beam with 3*2x8 mid span of 24 foot wide house under 12 foot 2x8 floor overlapping the center beam. That was a real PITA job
nice work. we got ours and it was definitely a fixer upper. massive oak beams underneath some with the bark still on and nothing like modern joists just beam after beam crossing each other. think i've been to the dump 10 times but we cleared out the crawlspace and made it nicer and dry. added framing for insulation and steel supports for all the 6x6's in there. floors pretty solid. still have things to do but progress. well done on yours, that beam going across is beautiful
Great job buddy,fun to see your wife helping you
Great work! Love watching stuff like this.
What a wonderful and wholesome plan you both have! Congrats! Good future ahead.
Thank you so much
thank you for this video it was considerable help and taught me alot. also good job on the video.
Yeah that is clean.
Thanks for watching
Great stuff here! One suggestion while under and in the air , consider placing a tar paper matt between each support stone base and the wooden sills You place on top of them.
This will avoid any condensation which always gathers between stone and wood surface intersections often causing even treated woods to rott in time.
Thanks for this excellent video! You've both done a real great job to be proud of!❤
Thanks for the video, just bought a 100 year old house and I will be under it doing a lot of leveling. lots of good info.
Let me know how it goes I'm have a similar project in planning
Glad it was helpful!
That's a major undertaking. 👏 Just in case you ever need to do such a task as installing new support beams in the future there is a reasonably easy way for one person to build and install the new beam by themselves. I undertook a similar project but not on a 100 year house four years ago. Our house had a major water problem underneath and moisture deteriorated two of the main support beams. I didn't have any help. So, in order to replace the beams I placed my new beam materials in place under the house. In my case I had to assemble and install temporary beams along both sides of the original beam so I could remove and replace the original one. Working alone I realized the best way to do this was to assemble the beams in place. So, to do that I lifted each piece of 2x8x12 into place individually on top of the blocks. Once in place I assembled them using 5 inch construction screws then using bottle jacks pushed them up into place and shimmed to complete leveling and supporting. Its a task either way but in a pinch one man can accomplish a lot if needed.
Oh yea that sounds like an accomplishment. I actually really enjoyed this project. Thanks for watching.
i am doing this in spring. How did you handle your humidity problem?
@@philmoore71 I did a full crawl space encapsulation. The main beam sections were only a portion of my project. I also had to sister 17 of the floor joist that were also rotted and deteriorated. We had a water run off problem due to soil saturation and property grade from the left front to the back right rear corner. There had been useless plastic installed by the previous owners but, the water would actually run under the foundation and rise up into the crawl space on the lower back side.
My 1st step of the project was to remove all of the old plastic and dibris left behind by the original builder.
The next step was to dig a French drain along the front foundation and down one end of the house to the lowest point inside under the crawl space at which point I installed a sump basin and pump.
The next step was to grade,with a rake, all of the uneven ground underneath the house to help minimize any potential ponding of water below the 12 mil vapor barrier I was installing in the next two steps.
The next step was to close and seal all existing crawl space vents. Then I installed 1 inch foil backed foam board insulation around the outer foundation walls. Next, I installed a band of 12 mil vapor barrier approximately 16 inches up onto the foam board and out onto the ground about 24 inches. After completing the outer walls I wrapped all of the piers in the same fashion. Next, I rolled out the 12 mil barrier onto the ground and covered the entire crawl space. The last step was to tape all of the seams so no water would rise through the seams onto the top side of the water barrier.
Lastly, I replaced all of the existing AC ducting.
Upon completion of this 1800 sq/ft crawl space repair I had spent approximately $4600 on all materials including new ducting, all vapor barrier, fasteners, tapes, 3 hydraulic jacks, battery drills, masonry blades, sump pump, basin, drain piping and drainage rock. I also completed the entire project alone. The total time invested was approximately 160 hours over four months. The cost savings was over $14,000. I can possibly share some photos of before and after if you would like to see them.
@@ronniewetherington509 wow. such a detailed answer . tksssss. yes, i would like to see some photos. i have heard of 6 mil vb, I guess thicker is better with the 12 mil (philmoore7@gmail.com)
@@philmoore71 it actually was available in 18 mil at the time of my project. I ordered all of the vapor barrier materials, fasteners sump & pump online
Excellent job, dude. Well done
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so MUCH for this video. I was thinking I had to dig out areas for footers to level the floor. Your video makes it possible for me to accomplish this project. Thanks again
This will only work temporarily, may settle and sag again due to no footings, and the concrete block can crack. Pouring footers is the permanent solution with small house jacks.
Great work! Your crawl space looks so clean.
I’m getting ready to work on mine. The floor joists are large logs that were flattened on top. They are notched into a big 10” by 8” hand-hewn beam. The house was built in 1847 and there is not much room in the crawl space. It is also not anywhere as clean as yours!
You guys make a great team! great job, thank you for sharing
Thank you for watching!
We just bought a 130 yr. old farmhouse, and we will be encapsulating and putting in more floor support soon. Loved the vid! We are just starting up in our UA-cam journey documenting our farmhouse too! I will def. be buying a laser!
Where do you get the laser from?
It is linked in the description! :)
Nice helper! All I found under my house was some petrified rats.
Give her Joy man give
Your wife is a champ lol I hope you cleaned the house or took her to a nice supper for the help! Lol
Yes she is. I do that everyday to keep her around lol. Thanks for watching man.
Wow!!! Great video and explanation!!! I have a home that we’re looking at flipping and the floors are sagging throughout the home, and was looking forward to hiring a company, but this video gives me more insight on how to do it myself!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!
Thanks - Great video !
You people are just such a nice family!
We just bought a farmhouse and have to do exactly the same process.
Very helpfull !
Good luck!!
I actually work at Powerlift Foundation Repair out of Oklahoma. Everywhere really. And I would like to say the second stringer you built was perfect. That is exactly what we use. Tripled 2x6s
Great job 👍
Team work 👍
Let's see more projects with you and your wife. Me and my wife bought our farm house in 2017 too it was moved here in the 40's and it's my first crawl space
Lots more coming up. Thanks for the support
Country girls kick ass!
I have this same issue. Good job man. I’m gonna try and tackle this before I do my floor tile.
Great video!
Shes doing it. Enthusiasm for some in a small dark place is nill. The dred on her face when she asked if a friend is coming over to help said it all.
Worked under a house built in 1960s by a California guy. Layed concrete flats on the ground to put the main beams on. Had to tunnel under the beam to get to sewer line.
Looking at a hone right now thats over a 100 years old good job good intructions will subscribe to your channel
Thanks for the support!
Congrats to both of you guys!
You inspire me to keep going with my projects around my old house which I loved.
Thank you so much! We appreciate you watching! Good luck with your projects!
Thanks guys! Great video, I have a low place in my living room so I will be using your advice!!
Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Awesome job
Thanks for the support
Wow good video
Thank you
That’s some nice treated floor trusses and vapor barrier for 100 years.
Thank you. Like most 100 year old house the floor was pretty much rotted out so it was removed in most of the house. Just leaving the foundation and walls . Then they hung new floor joist and plywood. There’s still a few portions left that have the old 1x4 decking but most of it didn’t survive. The vapor Barrier we did about a year ago due to standing water and the moister levels along with a sump pump and whole house dehumidifier.
In the beginning of the video we explained the house was actually moved that it’s current spot in 1947 on skids! 2 long trees pretty much at that point the house was cribbed up in the air and a block foundation was build. Then they lowered the house on it. Same way they would when moving any other house and left the tree pole skids under the house. In 1980 they added the front portion and the rear as explained in the beginning of the video. Here’s our email littledreamersfarm@yahoo hit me up I’ll give my cell number it’ll be much easier to give you the whole history over the phone if your interested. Thanks for watching
@@LittleDreamersFarm I don't think it would help my situation.. Mine has the old field stone cellar under the middle third and a partial crawl space under a small section under the other 1/3 the last 1/3 is walled off. 2 stories tall with a balloon frame.
Brings back memories. I've been working on a 100 year old house for about 40 years 😁. It seemed like a good idea at the time because we needed a roof over our heads but today I often wonder if it would've made better sense to have demoed it and started new.
@@jerseyjim9092 haa..me too...one thing bleeds into the next..Ive already remodeled things I've already remodeled before..Im committed to most likely dying here now.
You guys so awesome ❤❤😂
good helper i need one just like her to help me do my retrofit in my 70-year-old house in California.
Thanks for the hints! Gotta do similar on a 100+ yo house myself!