My First Income Property Renovation ep 2 Mike's First Flip
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2023
- In today's episode I Fix all the framing and drywall around the new master bedroom closet! This was the biggest problem when we left off on episode 1 and now we can press on!! Ep. 3 coming later this week!
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Watch Episode 1: • Renovating My First In...
House Tour Video: • I BOUGHT MY FIRST INVE...
Materials and Supplies:
Framing Nailer: thd.co/3Og0thr
Drywall Knife: amzn.to/41MrV9m
Drywall Saw: amzn.to/3BzWvsl
Mesh Tape: thd.co/45cp50k
Drywall Corner: thd.co/432BClh
Drywall Tool Set: amzn.to/45d9BcL
Good Deal on Drywall Screws: amzn.to/3MDm5Df
Standard Weight Joint Compound: thd.co/41Qi1Um
Ultra Lightweight Joint compound: thd.co/3MigCQG
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Thanks for watching!
-Mike Montgomery
MODERN BUILDS
Hi, My name is Mike Montgomery and I'm a MAKER; a designer, builder, and full-time content creator. Accessibility is my focus with Modern Builds, not simply accessibility of designs, but accessibility in materials, information, and projects themselves. I've focused on creating furniture and DIY projects that are simple enough that any beginner maker can accomplish, yet interesting enough that any expert might be inspired. Building and making is becoming less and less of an exclusive hobby and profession. My goal is to reduce that separation even further. - Навчання та стиль
For that oblong drywall piece, it’s easier to cut a new larger square piece to cover the entire existing hole then trace around that new piece on the existing drywall. Cut out on the line you made and pop in your perfectly fitting drywall piece. Much easier for next time
came to comment this! also makes for much straight forward taping!
This. Your mud/tape/feathering and sanding would also be that much easier with this method!
To each their own.. but yea, that was dumb.
In all honesty not too much of a difference. Don’t see anything wrong with how mike did it.
Right, he did it in other spots. I’m not sure why he didn’t do it there.
I would add insulation into that wall for sound dampening. It's a bedroom wall and you plan to make the entertainment center on the other side. That can get noisy.
I was just about to comment on that, and I agree, I would always add insulation, there is noting more annoying than being able to hear every fart from every room all the time. I would say it’s to improve privacy
Took a minute to get this one out, but I've got a lot of content shot and ready to release, so stay tuned!
Just a safety tip. At the moment when you are making the wooden frame that goes into the original doorway, you are holding the wooden edges right next to where your nail are going. In the case that you would miss by an inch or there was an issue with the nailgun, your hand is right next to it and the nail could go very deep into your finger or palm. I would refrain from placing your hand anywhere near that area. You can use a ducttape or a clamp to hold the wooden pieces together while nailing it to prevent any chance of injuring yourself.
I had a freind in architecture school put a nail through her kneecap while we were build a boat launch for a charity, and she was actually being safe. Never can be too cautious. 👍🏽
A few notes:
1) That misshapen fill piece on the ceiling didn't look like it had full backer support along the seam- this will likely result in cracking a few years down the road. I would have cut it rectangular and then used some wood scraps as backer to mechanically tie the drywall together before taping and mudding.
1) Gap fill with hot mud before taping. Hot mud doesn't shrink as much as drying mud so it's good for thicker stuff. If you just tape and mud without gap filling, you will leave a void behind the tape. Unsupported joints eventually fail.
2) Use paper tape. It seems like more work, but it's stronger than mesh and doesn't show through nearly as bad when sanding. It's also thinner. Mesh tape is only the best choice for some very specific applications. Once you learn to use paper, you'll prefer it.
3) Ultra Light isn't very strong and doesn't have much glue in it. You should use traditional heavyweight All Purpose (green lid) or Plus 3 for taping. You can then use Ultra Light or Topping mud for subsequent coats if you want- it spreads smoother and sands easier.
Makes sense!!! Thanks a ton
"1)Gap Fill " & "2) Use paper tape." I agree. Using mesh tape is for minor repairs or for smaller holes in drywall.
Always apply a thin coat of joint compound over the seams, then as you apply paper tape take your trowel (or 4 inch putty knife) to 'press' the tape to the joint compound. Cover the paper tape with another thin layer of compound being sure to cover at least 1 1/2 inches on either side of the tape to get a good bond. Let dry 24 hrs. Using a sanding pole go over each area and then check for low spots or dimples using a utility light aimed at the wall. Apply a thin coat once more until all low spots and dimples are gone. Let dry for 24 hours then sand again. :)
You have such a great attitude towards trying out new skills. Mike!
Maybe two tips:
You might use a makeshift drywall support next time, for lifting a large sheet up to the ceiling, and I probably would have cut out a rectangle where that weird shape broke out of the ceiling. In my experience regular shapes are easier to fix.
Love that you just try stuff, doesn’t always have to be right but it’s cool to see you learn and grow.
Great to get to be a part of this journey. It will be cool to see all the changes you will make. He is another UA-camr but the Vancouver Carpenter is a great drywall guy to watch. Just a thought. You should use regular drywall mud which has more adhesives in it for your first coats and fill the lsrge gaps with the mud first and paper tape is the best way to go
Lite mud is usually reserved for finishing, all purpose for taping and first layers. That said, I've never used lite mud. On those larger patches, square patches are easier to cut and tape.
Very food advice!! I’ll do that going forward!
Mesh tape requires the use of a setting-type mud.
Also, setting-type muds are nice for the first fill on corner bead, because they're harder when they set up that all purpose or lightweight muds.
I have the Brad nailer which has a knob on top. Having said that Be careful with adjusting them, it’s known that if you go up too much it will cause misfires and jamming.
Mmm drywall tips that I can think of : 🤔💭
- Prefill large gaps before taping
- slightly cut a bevel to edge of old drywall (if it’s higher than new drywall) for seem-less blending
- upgrade drywall blade size with every layer of mudding
- for bedding tape don’t use “topping” mud though it’s easy to sand it doesn’t have maximum strength.
- spray oil primer (killz spray can oil primer) on exposed brown paper of new drywall ( otherwise it will pull the water from the mud and bubble up/ peel off when painting)
Jeff from @HomeRenoVisionDIY taught me that
Thanks for these tips!!! And yes Jeff’s the best, I feel like he’s making jokes about me when he’s mentioning videos he’s seen out there of people looking like amateurs 😂
@@ModernBuilds ahahaha Hey I was there once too! If it’s him making fun of me then I am honored ! 😂 !
You are doing great though, one day we can look back at our own work and make fun of it together!
I watched the tail end of another project like this from another creator and I’m looking forward to watching yours from the beginning. Great work on what you’ve done so far, man. Loving it.
When repairing an odd-shaped drywall, cut an oversized square/rectangle of drywall, trace it onto the damaged area, and remove the excess to achieve a better fit, eliminating the need to trace and match the irregular shape.
Hey modern builds, im a drywall Apprentice, in Australia, you should use stud glue on your drywall so you dont need as many Screw .
Just a quick tip on drywal patches, and weird shapes. Instead of cutting weird shapes, you can measure the area as a square, cut your drywall piece a bit over the size but in a sqaure shape. Then you places the cut piece on the weird shape trace and cut the shape of the weird hole to the shape of your newly cut piece. This also makes taping and mudding eaiser with straight lines. Hope this helps!!!
Such a joy to see this coming through! The repair look unbelievable, like a pro!
Love watching you, Mike! And I am so happy you got a house to redo :) The only thing I would have done - definitely wouldn't have gotten rid of all the wood you trashed. I would have kept it to reuse for various jobs. But this is me - i reuse and recycle before I decide to throw something away. Keep on the good work! And i love your parents,!!! They rock too :)
5:00 for a cleaner looking patch make a square that's just a little bigger than the hole and trace that new piece and cut it out so you get a hole exactly the same size of the new piece of drywall. makes it easier to mud it and look cleaner and more professional
I love that you add in the tips other people have given you.
Loving this series. Best of luck with the property!
Lookin' good, Mike. This is going to be a fun series!
Do longer episodes like episode 1 it was so much more in depth and had my wife watching with me
I really love your videos! On your sheet rock repairs just make everything square much easier.
Enjoy this moment for this moment is your life.
YESSSSSS ITS FINALLY HERE!!!!
For minor adjustments you can run a rasp over the cut edges of drywall. You can also screw in a scrap block of wood loosely to the ceiling joists and spin it around to act as a second set of hands when hanging large pieces you can't hold both ends of. I also think most drywall pros would tell you to cut the hole to fit the patch, rather than trying to cut a patch to fit the hole.
Maybe just plan on relaxing a larger area if it’s within a sheet of drywall, like at the ceiling. Take the ceiling down to the corner where that 9” strip of old drywall is, and ow you have one less seam in your ceiling finish. And rent or buy some drywall stand things.
looks fresh! good job
Hell yeah Mike, keep killing it. Love the content!
Thanks Cody!
thanks, that is exactly what I need to do...
I hope I explain it right. Every time I stick something in the like for example hook with Velcro to hook something in the wall. It will stay but it won’t stay that long. Then the stuff that was hanging end up falling and tearing the wall. Includes the paint
Nice work Mike.
This should be called “Mike doesn’t always know exactly what he’s doing but he he’s lucky most of the time “
Always use all purpose to tape or durabond, lightweight is for finish coats.
Good job
I hope you immortalize the Enjoy the Moment wall decal Mike! lol 😎 so cringe
😂😂 it’ll be a sad day when I paint over it!
This what I mean if you read my 1st comment on the 1st video ! You square off any Sheetrock patch not do that it has a tendency down the road to show!
Being even a 1/4 “ over allows you Sheetrock to eventually bow braking you paper and showing lines !
Just common stuff the new buyer 2 yrs down the road or maybe 3 or 1 has to pay to fix!
Definitely use a drywall lift or hold it up in place with some pieces of 2x4 screwed into the rafter if you ever need help! Also just in case you didn't have it drywall screwdriver makes alll the difference
Keep Making. God bless.
If you're going to be hanging a lot of drywall, get yourself a drywall Dimpler tip... It will set your screws at the correct depth, without slowing you down or driving them too deep
In case no one has said it. On the drywall small cuts, rather than cutting out the specific shape, I was taught to cut a rectangular piece large enough to cover the hole, place it over the hole and trace it, cut out the tracing and screw in your new piece. Should be a tight fit and quicker than cutting off shapes.
I wouldn’t use joint compound with mesh tape. Tends to crack more. I would use paper instead with all purpose joint compound. The westpac brand is the best. Maybe invest in a banjo would save you a lot of time. GL
You have to increase the air pressure as well as the depth on the gun
Mike,
I hope you are putting in solid flooring in the attic. Too bad you can't add steps to the attic , instead of a pull down ladder.
I hope that the attic was built with supports in such a manner that it is a usable space. My daughter's attic is riddled with cross beams and angled beams and no floor or head space, rendering it useless for storage.
I am eagerly following your new work site.
Perkins Brothers Pro Tip: Don't put your hand that near to the nail gun, you will end with your hand nailed to the wood.
Might help if you buy a drywall square. Makes cutting the drywall easier
Whenever possible take the drywall repair to a corner. Those seams will always show.
Oh, I missed the intro from the first part. That was fun. Nevertheless, great episode❤
you need to use light and heavy mud also paper tape will always be better to use
A lot of those partition studs are very good wood, shame you didn't reuse.
Just cut drywall hole square and then cut new drywall same size.
Great👍
take a drink every time mike says he's only done drywall repairs before...
Why no isolation for stopping sound when you fixed the openingen between the rooms? Just dry walls and those boards.
Will you just be filling in those gaps in the flooring where you removed those 2x4s, with just enough wood to level out the floor?
You should have installed electrical outlets / network outlets and more noise damping when you had the wall open anyway. Makes a cleaner look, and you'd thank yourself later
Oh no the gunk on the lenses is coming back!
LETSSS GOOO 🎉🎉
Use a drywall gun. I know your boys at Ryobi make one and a review on it would be cool.
damn was expecting each video in this series to be 30+ mins
The sanding will be a nightmare. Prepare for pain
Love your videos but I'm only buying this house unless it comes with a warranty lol keep learning.
Why do all these doors have headers if they're not load bearing?
You gonna be doing drywall repairs for a minute!
Ya
I have a question.Y family and I lived with my sister. And she have a upper level. And that upper level is the attic. Actually the old owner made 1/2 of the attic a small room. Then there’s another door to the actual attic.
So my husband my two kids and I are renting that small room next to the attic.
So, I prime the wall then paint the wall. Then 1 year later the paint started to peeled out from the dry wall. Why does it do that?.
If I were you, I'd be looking into hiring a drywall lift. You'll find it way easier to work on the drywall, and above all else, it will save you from doing damage to your back 😮. As always's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
I does not like the white-painted....
you can paint the garagedoor same color as the frontdor, and the flower boxes same color as the house.
Thank god this is just a rental
I got wall dust in my eyes while I was watching this video
Bro Respirator is needed
instead of the closet u should add a bathroom it will sell better
👌💜
Hey! Any reason why you left that tiny wall next to the closet? Why not just open it up all the way?
There’s a “linen closet” of the dining room and I thought it would be cool to keep that storage 😁
@@ModernBuilds Oh got it! Thanks for responding! Youre doing great work : D
Super Pro ?!
Mike needs a drywall lift.
Break away blades for drywall? NO. Just use a traditional utility blade
Nice Work. Just like a SUPER PRO.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
Bro keep it up ❤❤
Love from 🇮🇳
Just a little advice dont cheap out and do things right otherwise people will notice and when they do your reputation will become garbage
No cabinetry on either side or on top of a television. This is harmful for speakers. And proper placement acoustic reasons.
You have been warned!
Man I love your videos but this one was a rough one to watch.
I really like your content Mike .....but boy o boy do we need to get you a drywall mentor. This is a what not to do, honestly. Paging Vancouver Carpenter
I’m learning... saw in one of his videos today where I should’ve used standard weight compound with mesh... live and learn... I’ll improve hopefully as I go
@@ModernBuilds get your hands on a roll of Fibafuze, it's so so much better than old school mesh tape. It's better than paper tape for a lot of jobs!
Let’s go!
First! 🎉
Lol
I kind of understood why Americans called it "Dry wall" because I thought it referred to the method of building not including plaster. HOWEVER this video makes me think you are calling the plasterboard "Drywall". Is it a brand name?? Because its on a ceiling so it's not "Drywall" at the very least it's Dry Ceiling.
For reference we call a timber wall a "Studwall" and the boards are "Plasterboard" we normally do a 3mm skimcoat of plaster on ceilings and walls once they are all taped at the joints and corners.
hi
Day one of asking mike to flip a house with me
Mike's first foray into being a pos landlord, episode 1
I admire the desire to do the work yourself but this is such shotty work. It’s strange that you prioritize putting one drywall piece into the ceiling but then do so much patch work on the walls. You should really try to limit the amount of small pieces you use in order to reduce unevenness, mudding and potential cracking in the future.
Dont ever buy a house flip from someone with little building / renovating experience.
Janky youtubers flipping for entertainment whilst millions dream of home ownership. This is where were at.
Don’t watch then, imma keep chasing my dreams!
we're** there I fixed it for you.
@@ModernBuildsthis is exactly how people like Factory should be replied to. I'm glad you stand your ground. A lot of creators don't. You've earned my respect and all the Likes.
@TheFixerHomeRepair has all the tips you need!!!
I am glad to hear that you have found this book to be very informative and helpful for your woodworking project ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO It sounds like you are well prepared and confident to build furniture for your house. I commend you and your friend for your enthusiasm and willingness to learn new things from this book. I hope you enjoy your woodworking journey and create some beautiful pieces.