Thanks so much for the clear instructions and video. This got my 2002 2500HD right back on the road. I’m not much of a mechanic and it took me just under 3 hours. Getting that damn thing out took some patience and persistence (and my wife tugging from the top while I twisted back and forth from the bottom). I appreciate your help.
Thank you very much! This was impossible to find without the video! For future viewers, definitely remove the heat shield with the three 10mm nuts, and mine had a stud on the bell housing that I removed to give me more access. Also an extremely long 1/4" extension (like 16+ inches, make one if needed) and u-joint also made removing the line bracket and sensor bolt much easier! Got it done in about 45 min thanks to you!
Josh Girves, I replaced my sensor because the truck would randomly stall. Now after replacing it, it won’t start. There were a few times while cranking the motor one or two cylinders would fire but that’s it. Any suggestions?
Just replaced the Crank Sensor on my 02' 2500HD 8.1 and it still stumbles occasionally and stalls the same as it did before. It will start right back up and run for hours fine after. I got the OEM ACDelco part and it looked identical to the one that was in the truck. No codes are being set however I have two intermittent codes when I read it with my scanner P0101 and P0107 MAF and MAP codes. My wiring harness all looks intact and I wiggled every connector and plug wire while the truck was idling, still nothing. I also viewed the RPM signal and MAF signal when it was stumbling and they both were working no spikes are drops in the signal.. What else could cause the truck to just die? Cam sensor? Fuel pump/relay?
Waffeey it could any one of a number of things, but I would go though the electrical system thoroughly. Your truck will not continue running if it doesn’t see minimum required voltage, so your alternator is suspect, but you won’t know until you test everything. Good luck!
@@joshgirves6785 My battery voltage gauge is always around 14 when running and around 12.5 with just key on. The battery is from 2018 and terminals are clean & tight.
Thanks so much for the clear instructions and video. This got my 2002 2500HD right back on the road. I’m not much of a mechanic and it took me just under 3 hours. Getting that damn thing out took some patience and persistence (and my wife tugging from the top while I twisted back and forth from the bottom). I appreciate your help.
Thank you very much! This was impossible to find without the video! For future viewers, definitely remove the heat shield with the three 10mm nuts, and mine had a stud on the bell housing that I removed to give me more access. Also an extremely long 1/4" extension (like 16+ inches, make one if needed) and u-joint also made removing the line bracket and sensor bolt much easier! Got it done in about 45 min thanks to you!
andrewk157 I only made this video cause I couldn’t find one! I’m glad it helped!
Josh Girves, I replaced my sensor because the truck would randomly stall. Now after replacing it, it won’t start. There were a few times while cranking the motor one or two cylinders would fire but that’s it. Any suggestions?
@@joshgirves6785 does your truck was cranking but no start
Thank you for the video...I was actually able to do the swap from the underside on a twin post rack.
Just replaced the Crank Sensor on my 02' 2500HD 8.1 and it still stumbles occasionally and stalls the same as it did before. It will start right back up and run for hours fine after. I got the OEM ACDelco part and it looked identical to the one that was in the truck. No codes are being set however I have two intermittent codes when I read it with my scanner P0101 and P0107 MAF and MAP codes. My wiring harness all looks intact and I wiggled every connector and plug wire while the truck was idling, still nothing. I also viewed the RPM signal and MAF signal when it was stumbling and they both were working no spikes are drops in the signal.. What else could cause the truck to just die? Cam sensor? Fuel pump/relay?
Waffeey it could any one of a number of things, but I would go though the electrical system thoroughly. Your truck will not continue running if it doesn’t see minimum required voltage, so your alternator is suspect, but you won’t know until you test everything. Good luck!
@@joshgirves6785 My battery voltage gauge is always around 14 when running and around 12.5 with just key on. The battery is from 2018 and terminals are clean & tight.
Saturate it with penetrating oil first to help it come out without breaking.
Thanks, buddy. Really not looking forward to dealing with this tomorrow.
Next time you do a video, maybe video yourself actually doing the work.