Of course according to SAE International Standard J1952 the preferred term for all of these systems is AWD and divided into 3 main categories which are Part-Time AWD, Full-Time AWD and On-Demand AWD. These split further into a total of 8 sub-categories of AWD.
This is also super misleading: 5:50 You make it sound as if simply driving in 4WD locks the rotation of all 4 wheels...it doesn't. It only locks the speed of the 2 front wheels to the 2 rear wheels. For example, your front left wheel can still turn faster than your front right wheel while in 4wd. Only locking the differentials can force the wheels to share rotational speeds
Actually constant power to both front rear differentials, most vehicles have open differential so the power will go to one side depending on traction on the other tire
For me, I think that the key takeaway is that constant power to all 4 wheels, instead of varying power makes for better off-road slow-speed conditions as opposed to varying power, which is better for high-speed on-road conditions.
They get to put more ads in videos (more profit) when the video is longer than 8 minutes. Used to be 10 minutes. It's the reason why a bunch of videos were 10:02 long. Now, they're all 8:02. Bunch of filler content.
Exactly. UA-camrs do that shit on purpose because they want to drag out the topics as much as possible, they want to meet or pass the 10min mark of video duration for the YT algorithm+ADs.
Home grown Montanan here. Yep, got my license at 14 1/2 years old. I've driven them all, rear wd, front wd, 4wd, AWD . I learned how to drive in snow and ice in parking lots in a Rwd. Later I became a driver of all military vehicles available to me. I was a combat driver of a Bradley Fighting Vehicle in Iraq.... ok, enough credentials? Ive owned several Chevys, Ford trucks, Subarus and finally a Jeep TJ which I loved. The worst driving conditions Ive experienced? 4th of July Pass from Idaho to Montana in a blizzard... in my Subaru Forester = the best possible experience. That car could easily out drive anything else, ANYTHING in snow and ice. For the money, availabilty, cost of maintenance etc. SUBARU!
Having spent the last 25 years driving tractor trailers I have some VERY good advice. I have driven over 2,000,000 miles without an accident. I see 4-wheel drives in the ditch every winter. I see two wheel drives(rear too) going right along in 2 feet of snow. I tell you exactly what to do. It’s all about weight on the tires that are engaged. A front wheel drive car goes well in snow because the weight of the engine is right on top of the front wheels that are engaged. A VW Beetle will go well in snow or mud because the engine is in the back right on top of the wheels that are engaged. In other words, if you have a two wheel drive truck spinning in the snow or something then put as much weight as you can get in the bed of it. Same thing with a car. If it’s rear wheel drive and you are stuck or have to drive somewhere then put as much weight as you can in the trunk. Seriously, in a semi if your trailer is empty or you have a light load then you spin and slide. In a semi if you attach to a trailer with 46,500 lbs in it then your truck goes almost like it’s on dry concrete. Ever see 18 wheelers going down the interstate when it’s covered with ice? Those trucks have heavy loads on and know what they’re doing.
Agreed, in every rear wheel car I ever had my dad taught me to throw in a couple 20-30lbs sand/salt bags in the trunk for the winter, spread them out as far out as possible to get the weight over the rears. Living thru CDN winters, rarely ever got stuck, but if I did I had some sand or salt on hand to help get some extra traction to free myself. Cheers & congrats on 2mil+ miles accident free! 👍🍻🇨🇦
Yup, a loaded semi can do better on snow/ice covered road than many AWD SUVs. It's more accurate to say though that it comes down to pounds per square inch. Essentially that we have and need well over 100PSI in our tires. A typical FWD car with some fat sporty tires is going to do worse than a typical front engine RWD car with narrow tires. A modern sporty 4WD pickup with fat 40psi tires, will do worse than an old school narrow tire pickup with 80psi tires. In the semi truck world rigs with super single tires do worse because they have a lower pounds per inch requirement. I kind of drive truck in the snow for a living all winter. The worst offenders I see stuck all the time are doubles with super singles, they've sabotaged themselves that equipment choice.
Although you see Jeep Wranglers, running in the sand, climbing mountains, mudding, etc. have you seen Subaru in rally races ? which includes racing on gravel roads, snowy roads, and other difficult tracks, terrains, and environments during the WRC races ? Also Subaru also has the Baja pick up truck, which gets raced in the desert, etc. Subaru makes extremely well built and extremely capable full time awd system which works amazing. Even in places that gets tons on snow, such as Russia, they drive and love Subarus. Now that is Subaru quality and awesomeness. I do like the Jeep Wranglers too, as well as the GM suv and pick ups, Suburban / Tahoe, Silverado, which has the option to activate the 4X4 from 2WD. But for me, for the lighter vehicle category Subaru takes the cake. But for me, for the heavier vehicle category, Jeep Wrangler, Chevy SUV and Pick ups, takes the cake.
Soft roaders : crv and rav4, it's not a true awd, like the subaru, both the crv and rav4 are more front wheel based / oriented systems. Light but capable off roader vehicle Subaru. ( symmetrical awd ). Heavy vehicle off roader 4X4 off road Jeep Wrangler, since it was built for it. I have seen the older GM 4X4 pick up and large suv do quite well in the city and the countryside even with the thick snow. Ford Raptor in the other hand could be a worthy match for the offroad Jeep Wrangler.
Actually 4wd don't lock the front and rear differential unless you have lockers, those can be factory lockers or you can install them in the after market, like ARB lockers or so many different variants, and the lockers you have to active separately from the 4wd system, if you don't have them you won't lock each wheel, the video was great untill I heard that part🤦🏻♂️
@@lazuardiinggil Unless you have lockers, 3 wheels slipping means you not going anywhere ( the fourth wont get any power, the others are spinning) Re think... If a front wheel and a back wheel is slipping then you are not going anywhere.
This should be mentioned. While 4wd does send equal power to all wheels when engaged, the front and rear differential do not apply to this (unless they electrically lock with the 4wd engagement). If a rear or a front wheel is off the ground, the opposing wheel on that axle will not move while the one in the air keeps spinning. So even if your 4wd is pushing though some slippery or unbalanced terrain, don’t expect all wheels to move at the same speed
So what's the difference between 4WD and AWD if not for the locked differential? do 4WD not have the ability to continuously change the power sent to different wheels like AWD? And doesn't ANW send equal power to all wheels when driving on normal road (unless you're turning or going up a hill)?
Lockers can be selectable or automatic. Diffs can also be welded. LSDs and torque-biasing diffs can act similarly to lockers. TCS can also vector torque.
@@fury9947 4WD locks the center diff. AWD allows for a bit of differentiation between front and rear drivelines. Most 4WDs also offer a low gear. The Suzuki SX4 did not. Some vehicles can lock the axle diffs, for the ultimate in traction. Jeep SelecTrac, and similar systems, provide both 4WD AND AWD. SelecTrac also provides 2High, as well as 4Low.
Currently, I drive the 2021 Honda CR-V Real Time AWD and no issues in the snow, heavy rain and low to medium volume of mud. It's a great AWD system so far made by Honda.
I have a CRV as well. Does well in snow and on ice, but we must realize that these cars, and most others (like Rav 4), are not true AWD systems. They are slip and grip systems. That is, they are normally FWD vehicles. When the front wheels detect slip the rear wheels will "kick in" temporarily to give you traction. Subaru, on the other hand, is a true AWD car, in that all 4 wheels are under power at all times. So when we are talking about, and comparing AWD to 4WD we almost have to specify slip and grip or true AWD.
I agree. I own a 2016 AWD Honda CRV and have not had a single issue with this year make and model with 80,000 miles on it. Handles like a sports car in turns wet or dry and super dependable.
This is good to know because I want to get a new Honda Ridgeline despite it being an unpopular choice 😅. I'm not made of money so I couldn't get the more pricy options that include 4x4/4wd. The base model only has AWD and I wasn't sure if it was enough to comfortably operate in Colorado. I don't plan to go off road or any crazy stuff, I just don't wanna slip like Honda Civic Si does. I want to feel safe.
The thing I love about my AWD system is that it is "on demand". Normally, it is FWD, but if you hit patch of snow or water, it will instantly adjust the power to the front and rear wheels. My car also has trace control which will apply the brakes to certain wheels if you are going too fast into a corner.
I have been amazingly surprised at my 2018 RAV4 AWD and it has gotten me out of two stupid mistakes going where I should not have gone. One sand and one mud. I could literally feel the power dancing between the wheels as needed to pull me through bad stuff. Six to eight inches of loose sand for a quarter mile uphill as once I started down and realized I had no where to turn around until bottom of hill but it pulled up through that will only one quick slip in a turn going back up. Don't think it made one full rotation before adjusting and grabbing. The second time was a dirt path that turned to frame deep mud on me. Got turned around and pulled right out again. I do not recommend these mistakes to anyone, but glad I had a Toyota. Mostly I car camp in desert or in national forests back east and so far so good. Not going to do any rock crawling or mud bogging so I am very happy. Just waiting for some snow but usually hate winter so try to avoid. Give me beach sand over snow any day.
Actually, here’s a quicker, easier way to demonstrate the differences.. AWD: normally on Transverse mounted engines with a Haldex type system. 100% FWD, but can send 50% to the rear. The switch between front and rear is automatic. 4WD: normally on Longitudinal mounted engines. RWD based. Can send 100% of the power to the rear wheels on some vehicles. Usually an automatic system until Magna introduced a transfer case decoupler/disconnet to switch from 4WD to RWD on the fly used in the M5 and E63S. And recently introduced on AWD systems such as the A45S. 4X4: normally on longitudinal mounted engines, mostly on heavy duty vehicles, off road vehicles, and other. Reason being is for the full control of coupling or decoupling from 2x4 to 4x4, locking and unlocking differentials. Thats why you dont see a rock crawling 4X4 setup on a CRV or A45S. They each have their purpose.
So what is my 2012 Rav4 XTR? As far as I can tell from reading it is driving all 4 wheels all the time but in normal conditions it favours the power to the front, I'm guessing 60-40 split. Then there's the switch on the dash (diff lock) which I understand to use an electrical signal to lock the drive somehow to make the power closer to 50-50, maybe 51-49. Maybe I'm way off but it seems to work.
@@SalemikTUBE The RAV4 has a transverse engine with a FWD based AWD system, it can send 40-50% power to the rear if the system senses it needs it. But you probably have modes that can bypass the sensors and have the power sent in the rear in a semi-permanent fashion (40-50% power to the rear, if you have a rear diff then that 40-50% can be split 20-25 per wheel or 40-50 per wheel if needed) until you accelerate to a specific speed or switch modes. Its all in the car’s brain. All the coding. Do this when this happens, do that if this happens, do this and that if this sensor detects this and that. Gibberish to us but computers do these calculations in micro/nano seconds. RAV4 will favor FWD because of its mounting position (transverse) and transmission. That special edition RAV4 you have probably has an E-diff or 2 that bypasses the “traditional system” it has like in the regular RAV4, it doesn’t really “lock” your differential, but its doing its best to keep both sides left right turning at the same pace. the e-diff will make sure you get more torque where needed. Its like a beefier traction control in a way and Toyota’s Marketing made it seems super off road capable. Its all in the ECU and TCU. (Engine+transmission control units) working together. Its not a true diff locker like 4X4 but it’s sufficient if you go camping in a light off-road trail. Dont go rock climbing or hill climbing, not enough power per wheel unless you tune it (may void warranty). If you want that extra “umph” of power without warranty issues, check to see if an OEM style K&N filter exists for your specification, they let the vehicle breathe way better. Also, if its a “direct injection” vehicle, consider an Oil Catch Can to minimize carbon built up. Not sure but some Toyotas have dual injection, ported and direct, if thats what you can, skip the catch can. Hope I answered you question, let me know if you need more info.
Very informative and intellectual.. One question.. have a 2017 rav4 awd with an echo option but I don’t know exactly how this system mechanically works .. please some information.. Also please some additional information to minimize fuel consumption.. Cheers..
For most drivers who’s priority is hassle free, on road traction, awd is the way to go. Traditional 4wd is not the best for rain or light snow conditions and give drivers a false sense of confidence.
@@aftermarket5531 that makes sense bc 4x4 are more appropriate for extreme conditions like rallye racing. But for on-road usage in wet roads and light snow, awd is a better solution. But then all these mechanical systems pale in comparison to the sophisticated and fast acting ev awd systems.
We live in a very mountainous area of north central Washington state. We’re 5 miles from town, (25 miles from the city), on a private road that we have to plow and maintain ourselves. We get 5-7 feet of snow every winter so owning an AWD or 4WD vehicle is a necessity. We put 260# of sandbags over the rear axle of our truck for better traction. We keep our pickup in 4WD for most of the winter. Our Subaru’s are AWD and are the first vehicles that we’ve ever owned that we don’t have to put studded snow tires on in the winter. Prior to buying our Subie’s we drove Toyota’s for 40+ years. Even though they were AWD or 4WD, we still had to put the studded snow tires on during the winter months. With our Subaru’s, we drove on our factory tires year round until they wore out. We now have Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires on both our Outback and Forester. Their Great on dry, wet, slushy and snow covered roads. We have Cooper Discoverer A/T tires on our pickup.
@@jstravelers4094 What kind of comment is that?!!! They live in the country, have little traffic, little noise and enjoy peace and quiet. You must live in your mommy's cellar with your teddy bear snuggled in the wet corner of your bed that you pee in each night. How do you like that comment? Then, quit with the "one liner" condescending comments. Sheeezzz, you need to grow up.
Baja 100 racers are surprisingly mostly RWD vehicles. I think the reason is they require a lot of suspension travel which is difficult to achieve in the front.
@ whoever made this video. Putting your jeep or pickup in 4WD does not lock the differentials. You have to turn on the diff lock to do that. What causes the binding or front wheel differential wind up is that in 4WD your wheels are NOT set to turn at the same speed, but rather your front wheels are set to turn a tiny percentage faster to give you better control (grip and steering) in slippery conditions. Therefore you are NOT to use 4WD in normal conditions where you have good grip on all four wheels. But your differentials are still working normally and if you are going really fast on a wet road 4wd will help you to corner better if you are accustomed to driving with it.
Not to throw shade, but it doesn't feel like you really know what you're talking about. The simple was of explaining AWD Vs 4WD is AWD has three diffs, 4WD has two. 4WD is part time, AWD is fulltime. Sure, some AWD can disconnect an axle, but they still have a diff/viscous coupling between the trans and the driven axle. BMW's X-drive is *technically* 4WD, not AWD, as it has a transfer case that engages the front axle, and only two diffs. But it is driven like AWD. Likewise Subaru's older AWD setups(2000-2010) just use two LSDs and a open diff in the front, no fancy tech. Having owned many they are the BEST in snow and mud. This is after owning BMW's X-drives, Audi's Quattro, and many 4WD trucks. 4WD and locking hubs is fantastic off road/snow/mud. If its 4WD and two open diffs, its no better than RWD + LSD in the snow. A good AWD system with 3 LSDs is the best in all conditions, as they behave like a 4WD in snow, but better. Without getting too in depth, snow has a low kinetic friction but a high static friction, so once you are sliding its harder to find grip. 4WD loses to AWD because of that, as the requirement for the front and rear axles to spin at the same rate forces slip. any wheel slip hurts traction massively in snow, leading to AWD winning over 4WD.
There's even better explanation. Differentiating AWD and 4WD is stupid. It tells nothing about the effectiveness of the system and its architecture. Just learn how each system works and don't pollute your brain with useless thinking. Just part time AWD, coupling unit AWD, 3 differential permanent AWD, Super Select part-time 3 differential AWD... - it's not that hard to remember all these, especially when you're about to spend $50k+ on a brand new vehicle. Imagine buying Wrangler Sport instead of a Rubicon because "Idk, it's 4WD too but it's cheaper, must be some dealership's bullshit". THEY ARE NOT THE SAME NOR EQUALLY GOOD, EVEN THE FREAKING LOW GEAR RATIOS ARE DIFFERENT!
@@ldmtag there's only three that I know of, part time AWD, full time AWD and 4WD. hell, id argue that the part time AWD from the Hondas is actually 4WD, because there is NO center Dif, just a viscous coupling. 4WD VS AWD is super simple, and not classing the systems biased on their characteristics/topology is idiotic. None of the classes you stated make any sense, nor actually exist. There's three that do exist: AWD, Part time AWD, and 4WD. Anything else is incorrect. does that mean that quattro and DCCD are the same? NO! but they are in the same class, AWD.
@@thenewhalogod Actually 4. Part-time 4WD like many 4x4s or full time like the luxury trucks/suvs. Or for the hardcore vehicles like the Trackhawk or the Ram TRX.
6:00 The only time a four-wheel-drive jeep or truck will have all four wheels locked going the same speed is if you have your E lockers turned on, or you’ve got spools front and rear, differential action still occurs even when the vehicle transfer case splits power between the front and rear axle in four-wheel-drive, no auto manufacturer put spools in their street driven cars
i was going to say that. guy is nuts if he thinks running in 4 wheel drive will have all four wheels locked together even in a curve. that would quickly ruin your tires as the inside tires would be scuffing as the radius is larger on the outside of a curve than the inside.
True, trying to turn a fully locked real 4wd on street all you get it chirp chirp chirp. Need that differential wheel spin. But have to say electronic brake assist has come a long way, till it overheats or an abs sensor wire gets clipped.
Your 4WD bit is wrong mate. Unless your front and rear diffs are locked, your wheels will spin at different speeds whilst cornering if you have an open or limited slip differential, which come stock in most 4WD vehicles. If you have a mechanical locking diff then stay under the torque threshold and it won’t lock and it’ll act as an open diff. If you have air or electronic lockers they won’t engage until you specifically tell them to engage(usually when you are in a sticky situation… or lack their of 😂). Your explanation of when 4WD is engaged is as if the front and rears have spool lockers… which really shouldn’t be on the road unless it’s a drift car in RWD. In short… Yes, in 4WD the transfer case locks the front and rear driveshafts to spin together. However! The differentials determine the locking(or not) of the wheels at the same speed.
Shifting form 2WD to 4WD is not the same as locking differentials (in fact you can lock the differential on most 2WD trucks). You are simply engaging another axel to the drive train. This second axel still lets your inside and outside wheels turn independantly in 4WD - they will only turn at the same speed when your differentials are locked. This locks the planetary gear in the differential, which normally lets wheels spin at independant speeds, so that if one side loses contact with the ground, or slips, it doesnt rob all the torque/power from the side still in contact.
Which is why I bought a Ridgeline. I'm generally on the road and want something that will get me through a foot and a half of snow in the winter. I also go gopher hunting in the summer and need something that will get me up and down in the coulees and short grass prairie. Otherwise its dump runs and hauling drywall and plywood home. The Ridgeline does all of these things really well and has an intelligent traction vectoring system that I've seen plowing through obstacles with one rear wheel 2 feet off the ground. So yeah, with all that I have no need to continually feed a thirsty 5.7L V-8 just to haul my butt around Calgary and area. Besides that the independent 4 wheel suspension ensures a much more comfortable ride for the 90% of the time that it will be in the city or on a highway.Time to enjoy all that brilliant tech under the dashboard. I'm not hauling an RV the size of a Greyhound Bus across Canada, but I could easlly haul two motorcycle and a quad (My bike 850lbs, my son's bike 600lbs, a Honda Rubicon 520: 700lbs, 10 foot trailer 1000lbs - total 3150lbs) and still have another 1850lbs worth of gear left to haul without even touching the in-vehicle payload (another 1530lbs). So, when I was researching a replacement for my much-missed 2018 Ram Longhorn, I had to be honest with myself exactly how much truck I actually needed. After 30 years in Agriculture I've driven them all and to be honest, choosing the Ridgeline, an AWD Unibody was an easy choice. For those of you who "just can't do it", I understand. There's lots of cramped, harsh-riding, loud mid-sized 4 wheel drive body-on-frame trucks for you. Btw I do not in any way work for Honda although I did own a CR-V in the past and that was also bullet proof.
@@jstravelers4094I stand by my well-reasoned position on the Ridgeline. Even more so perhaps because I've had it for more than a year now and it hasn't disappointed, creeper comments notwithstanding...
I drive a Defender. It is an AWD, but it comes with a sweet central diff locker, which can bring the better of both worlds, in high or low gear. It's a pretty fun car to drive on and off road, if you're not interested in speed of course.
A Defender is an off-road Icon! They are set apart from the rest,,,,except for the Jeep Wrangler,,,Toyota Landrcruiser,,,,I have one too,,,,front and rear differential that can lock,,,,with the ability to crawl over rocks, muds, sand and snow. And totally comfortable. Cheeers
It's so funny when people think having awd or 4wd makes your car a tank that can do anything even a 40year old awd or 4wd and they don't know how to drive them like the amount of videos rn of people stuck who are just using full throttle to try and get out a ditch or unstuck etc
Another point is that 4WD designs are far older and haven't changed much in decades. AWD hasn't been around as long and has been improved significantly in that time. 4WD is also simpler and would be (probably) less expensive to fix if a differential or your transmission failed compared to AWD. However, based on your video AWD is probably more useful in the vast majority of situations you will be in if you aren't regularly going genuinely off-road. 4WD would be preferable if you are regularly towing or carrying heavy loads, though. The more complex transmission/differential setups have lower limits on how much torque it takes to break them.
Not at all the only use for 4wd is off road if you have ever seen or even better driven a car with a welded or locked rear diff you would have seen how bad they are on the road they are just bad at everything except going straight a 4wd is kind of the same you have locked the front and rear axles together so going straight on a smooth flat road you would know but anything the car will fight you however off road there is much less traction and the wheels can just slip a bit where needed
I would take a full time 4 wheel drive in the Landcruiser, Lexus LX and GX anyday over any AWD system. It has a real center differential and when shit hits the fan, it’ll get you out of anywhere!
Well explained video! I live in Colorado, we had knee deep fluffy powder snow and my kid needed to get her friend home from my place. My other kid had a '98 RAV4 which was great in snow as it was AWD and very light and it had some ground clearance. The knee deep snow was thick enough that it sapped the RAV's meager power output. so driving it was pretty simple - lots of throttle to pedal to the metal and steer, as the thick snow did cause the light RAV to wiggle around more than a little. It reminded me of riding my dirt bike at speed in the sand. In those conditions the RAV was very predictable and simply didn't have enough power to get into any real trouble. We got to where we needed to be and a BMW X5 was crabbing sideways in the middle of the road, struggling to go up a hill. Being a dirt bike rider and understanding that momentum is everything in these situations, I passed the Beemer to it's right and on the sidewalk (which was even deeper snow) pedal to the metal and we passed that Beemer like a comet, trailing a giant snow plume as the snow was pure powder. This was great fun and the teenage girls were laughing their asses off at the aggressive/properly driven '98 RAV > BMW X5 antics 😂 Got the girl home and was a legend with my younger daughter. Good times...
I would say all wheel drive takes four-wheel-drive to the next level with advanced technology. Complement all wheel drive with a set of aggressive tires and you are good to in most real road situations.
@@Hobblecreekkid Thank you, I had no idea. Then again i would never have spent any time in a Toyota ever in my life. So I'm glad you told me or i would never know that for sure.
@@Brandtyboy1 Hey my 06 Dakota rt was setup the same way! That truck went through everything. Even pulled myself out of a ditch full of snow up to the doors. Crawled out in a matter of seconds. Awd spins can be a bitch if it catches you off guard. Lol
You got this topic right. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 One side note, grip. Tires types for different terrains are key. The other is AWD’s use the front axle/ Transmission to drive over the roads. Unlike 4X4’s, they use the rear wheels to travel over terrains. I found a UA-cam video that shows a Subaru unable to drive up a mountain incline in a forward motion. Then they tried in reverse- successful. I believe that rear vehicle weight is more ideal for off road mountain inclines.
So far no one seems to have gotten the definitions correct (not even the video poster). AWD is for cars and some SUVs... and it means there is possibly power to front and rear (depends on center differential type). 4wd, or 4w4 is for SUVs and trucks, and means it has the ability to possibly send power to front and rear (depending on the center differential type), and.... AND it has LOW RANGE. So the 4WD and AWD can be in part time, full time (open diff), full time (limited slip diff), and select-able (both). The only industry standard difference between the two is a Low Range Gear set on the transfer-case. THAT IS IT. Plain and simple. Now traction side to side is a completely different issue. The axle diffs (front or rear) can have open, limited slip, locked, spooled/welded, and select-able. Each brand is different, as are all the aftermarket options. The systems can also be implemented or supplemented by ABS/computer controlled braking systems to create or aid in the limited slip feature of the axles, and/or even the center differential functionality. So to make it short and sweet.... the difference between AWD and 4WD is if it has a Low range unit on the Xcase.... that is literally it.
@@musicfan9309 You don't seem to have gotten the definition quite correct either. AWD allows differentiation between the front and rear drivelines. 4WD does not. Some 4WDs don't offer low gearing. Some vehicles are equipped with both 4WD AND AWD, like the Jeep XJ SelecTrac or the Suzuki SX4.
4WD doesn’t lock your front and rear differentials. Those are lockers and if you drive that fancy rubicon you should know. A 4WD vehicle has a transfer case that typically only applies power to the rear wheels. But at a flick of a switch or twist of a knob or pull of a handle. Your transfer case is engaged then applying power to the print wheels. If you have a open diff or limited slip the power will go to the wheels with least resistance hence why lockers are so important in the 4WD community.
Well, hold on now. The opening: I have 4WD now, but I didn't always have it. But I could drive in any condition and keep it in the road and up the hills with front wheel drive. Similarly, my first car was a VW bug and I could drive that in anything (engine weight was in the back, but still over the drive wheel). It is easier now, with 4WD...but you can't say that front wheel drive cars can't handle it. They are quite capable, dependent on the driver.
Grip and weight. Thaaaank you for saying it. If you have a rear wheel drive vehicle (assuming the engine is upfront) put as much weight in the trunk as you can, get good tires, and dont drive recklessly and you'll do fine in most bad weather on the road.
I've driven big/small rear drive cars with posi and without, same for front drive, different 4x4 trucks and AWD and in snow/mud/sand and nothing beats a primary rear AWD setup for control. I do drive a newer ridgeline now but my favourite was still my 02' 6 liter yukon denali. Absolute best setup in any weather. No torque vectoring, No electronic aids. Worked perfectly too for the entire time i owned it with zero maintenence or upgrade to suspension or differentials for over 300k.. Never got stuck anywhere and was a dream to drive.
friend of mine used to have this really old ass jeep that i loved. the thing was normally pure rear drive, but he could enable four wheel drive from inside, you had to actually lock the differential from the outside however. this thing was a beast too, really fun to just rear wheel drive on snow if you know what you're doing, but also basically unstoppable with the differential locked. we tied an old mattress to the crash bar on the front and used it to plow snow. our local fire station also used to have an old soviet military truck painted red, that thing was badass, got you in and out of anywhere, especially with the pump trailer detached. now we got this shit IVECO truck that only has rear wheel drive and has all the heavy equipment and a water tank on it, you drive this thing one metre off the road and it's fucked.
@windhelmguard5295 Went to a mudholing event one year with a guy who had an old willy's jeep.. unmodified. The other guys had brought a 4wd chevy tracker and his son a jacked up firefly on a stacked tracker frame. It was funny watching jacked up full sized chevys and fords getting stuck and these unmodified old vehicles passing them on mucky trails. Tracker got hung up once. That's it. Firefly had broken one of the bunch of wheel spacers to accommodate the 50 inch tires it had and had to be trailered out. Lol Winter driving is a different animal though. Having the right machine and experienced driving skill make all the difference. Do like the mattress thing though.. considered looking for something to mount to the bush bar on my ridgeline. 😜
You're mistaken when it comes to LSDs (it's a common misunderstanding and I mean no offense). Open differentials send power to the wheel with the least amount of traction which usually gives you one wheel drive on slippery surfaces (or under hard power) while the other wheel gets no power. In a 4wd truck with the center differential locked, if you have open front and rear diffs then you'll get the 2wd effect (the front and rear wheels with the least amount of traction will spin while the other two wheels get no power). Limited slip differentials work in a variety of ways (most commonly using clutch packs) but they have the advantage of allowing the inside and outside wheels to spin at different speeds going through a low speed turn like an open diff, but they also lock the wheels together of one wheel loses traction. This is also why you can slide a RWD vehicle with a limited slip through turns; if you mash the accelerator through a turn, it'll lock the wheels to prevent excessive wheel speed differences. A diff that is fully locked all the time will have an advantage in only the most extreme off road conditions, but otherwise having a limited slip gives you the best of both worlds. Edit: corrected some words and added a little more (possibly redundant) information to hopefully offer a better explanation.
@@ELITEViRuZz no worries, I love educating as much as I love being educated. Knowing how things work is a passion that extends to more than just vehicle related things. I did fix a couple of words and added a little more information in hopes that it makes things clearer. Hope you're enjoying your weekend!
@@SkyFoxMarine Hey man, same. I'm fascinated with understanding the how and why behind almost everything. My brain feels packed with absolutely useless information, but when someone says "I wonder why..." And you're able to answer it for them, it makes it all worth it. Have a great weekend and great life man.
Easy answer AWD is for mainly on road use but can handle light OFF road once in a wile. 4X4 is for when you just have to get there no matter what. 4X4 wins every time boys and girls. 😎
I live where we average over 200" of snow per season. I used to have a Grand Cherokee with full time 4wd. It was great on road or off without having to worry. I rarely had to put it low, but it was not the most reliable vehicle. Now I have a Subaru Forester. It does great in the snow and on challenging dirt roads around here. Have done some light off roading in it. Both handled weather conditions around here very well, and the Jeep would go most anywhere.
Hello, I grew up in north - I drove 2 wheel drive car or pick up with real snow tires(rubber stays softer in cold weather)-not mud tires- with weight in the rear - did not matter auto or manual trans - limited slip or standard rear axle - front wheel drive was better with snow tires on front - went anywhere I need to - back in those days it was experience, wisdom, & knowing your vehicle. Thank You !
My 4x4 F-250 with all terrain tires is a beast in mud, snow, and rocks. The added height clearance is crucial as well. I generally have to be quick switching in and out of 4 wheel drive in the mountains because the main roads are generally plowed and good to go. That front wheel hop feels terrible and I don't want to ruin my differentials, transmission and damage the tires but no way would I go with an all wheel drive vehicle in the conditions of 8,000 feet, non paved steep grade roads, with rain and snow.
It depends on the terrain. A proper 4WD access only track usually requires a 4WD and 4WD only. Otherwise, unless it is relatively flat, you're stuffed. In a AWD, you can't lift a wheel. What I mean by this is, when you lift a wheel in an AWD, the while in the air usually gets all the power, as most AWD difs are open. Of you vehicle has 4WD on, you may lift as many wheels as you please and all wheels will spin equally. However, 4WDs have different things that you put them in, like high and low range, the ability to lock and unlock difs, so on. This is how I understand it.
Your comment that "most AWD diffs are open" is just false. That's the whole benefit of AWD, if a wheel is in the air on an AWD it stops turning because it has no grip and the torque was re-directed to the wheel with grip. Different AWD manufacturers do this different ways, torque vectoring vs. independent wheel braking, etc.
@@bradwillems4070 Yes called brake Traction control.All modern AWD and 4WD vehicles use this system.Different manufacturers calibrate it differently,and some 4WD manufacturers also use cross axle diff locksAll use center diff lock.
Great video Brad. Missed one thing though. Gear ratios. All wheel drive vehicles have same gear ratios front and rear so they don’t destroy themselves driving around in high grip situations while 4 wheel has a slightly higher gearing in the front causing the front end to pull giving the driver the ability to steer better in slick situations. This is also why you need to be able to switch out of 4 wheel drive when the grip is good. Handling between all and 4 wheel is completely different in the slick as well but you could hit that topic in a different video. Thanks again Brad!
So far no one seems to have gotten the definitions correct (not even the video poster). AWD is for cars and some SUVs... and it means there is possibly power to front and rear (depends on center differential type). 4wd, or 4w4 is for SUVs and trucks, and means it has the ability to possibly send power to front and rear (depending on the center differential type), and.... AND it has LOW RANGE. So the 4WD and AWD can be in part time, full time (open diff), full time (limited slip diff), and select-able (both). The only industry standard difference between the two is a Low Range Gear set on the transfer-case. THAT IS IT. Plain and simple. Now traction side to side is a completely different issue. The axle diffs (front or rear) can have open, limited slip, locked, spooled/welded, and select-able. Each brand is different, as are all the aftermarket options. The systems can also be implemented or supplemented by ABS/computer controlled braking systems to create or aid in the limited slip feature of the axles, and/or even the center differential functionality. So to make it short and sweet.... the difference between AWD and 4WD is if it has a Low range unit on the Xcase.... that is literally it.
Most 4WD have the exact same gear ratio front and rear... if they have a different one due to limitations in the manufacturing of specific axles... it's off by a negligible amount, and you can HOPE it's faster speed in the front vs the rear, but not always and not necessarily... So a pair of axles can have a 4.10 and 4.11 combo, or a 3.54 and 3.55 combo... but that is negligible. Tire variation, wear, air-pressure, and weight over each axle (front vs rear) will have a greater affect on the ground speed of the rubber hitting the road. The only time two axles are very different in axle gear ratios are 4wd tractors with two different tire sizes.... and then the ratios are calculated to compensate for the tire diameter difference.
@@musicfan9309 To add to what you've said, most of the time when there is a difference in front vs rear ratios, it is because of a staggered tire size setup. The difference in ratios is to get the same effective road speed delivered from each end with the different circumference of tire. It really has nothing to do with 'pulling' you in a given direction - delivering thrust in loose materials is what does that, if you have the right tires to churn through those loose materials.
@@musicfan9309 4WD locks the front and rear drivelines together. AWD allows some differentiation. Some 4WDs have no low-range. The Suzuki SX4 with rear driveline could be switched between 2WD, AWD, and 4WD. It had no low-range. Many modern CUVs lack low-range, even if they can clamp/lock the front and rear drivelines together.
I was working a horse show one weekend and we had just come off 3 days of rain. The parking area for the guests bringing in there horses was trashed after 5 or 6 trucks parking their trailers. 2 vehicles that pulled in stuck oit to me more than the others. One was a for excursion with a v10 gas motor that was pulling a 20 ft trailer. That truck never flinched. The other one was an AWD chevy express van with factory tires and wheels. That damn thing pulled in and went right where it wanted to without flinching. Handled that greasy lot better than the most expensive 4x4 trucks there. And. It was a damn passenger van. One of the coolest things i ever seen. I would love to have one of those.
Great video, great content on AWD, very entertaining. However, misleading in 4WD. The difference between AWD and 4WD is the transfer case or low range gear in the gear box. At the end of the day, all AWD systems split the torque from the gear box (transmission) output to all 4 wheels by means of open differentials, limited slip differentials, viscous couplings etc, but always 3 differentials. 4WD will have 2 or 3 differentials and the torque from the gear box output will input a transfer case and its output will split the torque to all 4 wheels. The transfer case will contain a low range gear which will increase the gear box torque by up to 100% in some old models. Newer models may or may not have a transfer case but will have a low range gear. Also, it's worth noting that when the low range is engaged, the car's velocity gets reduced to less than 50% in some models due to the low range gear.
So far no one seems to have gotten the definitions correct (not even the video poster). AWD is for cars and some SUVs... and it means there is possibly power to front and rear (depends on center differential type). 4wd, or 4w4 is for SUVs and trucks, and means it has the ability to possibly send power to front and rear (depending on the center differential type), and.... AND it has LOW RANGE. So the 4WD and AWD can be in part time, full time (open diff), full time (limited slip diff), and select-able (both). The only industry standard difference between the two is a Low Range Gear set on the transfer-case. THAT IS IT. Plain and simple. Now traction side to side is a completely different issue. The axle diffs (front or rear) can have open, limited slip, locked, spooled/welded, and select-able. Each brand is different, as are all the aftermarket options. The systems can also be implemented or supplemented by ABS/computer controlled braking systems to create or aid in the limited slip feature of the axles, and/or even the center differential functionality. So to make it short and sweet.... the difference between AWD and 4WD is if it has a Low range unit on the Xcase.... that is literally it.
I would rather have a good pair of snow tires and FWD than summer tires and AWD. FWD transmissions last longer than AWD too. And cars with a FWD tend to be about 800 dollars cheaper on average.
This is a question that I’ve been asked too many times. It is a complicated topic. For example... the many various types of 4WD systems (I think Jeep had 3 types during their Cherokee years - during the same model year) and of course all of different AWD systems. Tricky subject. You handled it well. Great editing. Thanks for the video.
I had a 1981 Ford Bronco and was told if I put the Bronco in 4WD or 4H on pavement, it could bust an axle. Is that true? The 4WD Bronco worked great on dirt or snow, but I never took the chance on putting the Bronco in 4WD on pavement.
@@69FOSTER You mess that up only if you use front or rear diff lock, provided the car has this feature, and take turns. When taking a turn, the wheels on the exterior have to cover more distance than the interior ones, so they rotate faster (this means "open differential"). If you lock the diff (the term is "locked differential"), either on front or rear, you make the wheels from that side rotate together at the same speed, even in turns, and that will mess up the system. If you don't have or don't engage diff lock, then the only downside of going 4wd on pavement is more fuel consumption. You can google open vs. locked differential, even here on YT there are videos with more details on the topic.
On 4WD the front differential is usually geared slightly faster for extra control off road. This causes the rear to receive an small amount more torque, as the front has slightly more loss due to the faster ratio. This can be proven by locking four wheel drive in and travelling approximately 35-55MPH, a slight vibration can be felt due to micro-traction loss. Other than sating 4WD distributes power 100% equally to all four wheels, great video.
I had a late 90's Jeep. I think, it was around '99 or so. In general, it worked great getting places. However, when making sharper turns, you could sometimes hear the tires grind against the pavement, presumably because of the less than ideal balance in rotational speeds, while cornering. When there was heavy rain, or snow, it REALLY felt precarious around even mild curves. I felt like I had to pay extra attention, to keep it from sliding off the road. Later, I got a Mercury Mountaineer, and it had AWD. It always felt completely capable, and it it did much better, in the ice, rain, and snow. Now, I have a Pilot, and it will get me anywhere I want to go. Traction control makes a difference, too. I had a [heavy] V8 Continental, that would even climb icy hills, while it was raining. This was on a road, where I had trouble standing, once I got out of the car.
If you're totally confused, here's the simple version - AWD - 4 wheels rotate freely over one/two accel(s), the entire rotational power is divided as per demand - can rotate more = rotates more. So when your car turns or any wheel need more rotation than the other, it can do so. BAD WHEN one wheel is slipping/floating, since ALL the rotation goes into it, and others get none. 4WD - all wheels rotate at the same speed, so even when one wheel is floating, rest move as usual. BAD WHEN different wheels need different rotation, esp. in the turns as some wheels will be slipping, and even if you survive the turn, your tires won't, they'll wear off faster. ⟨⟨ For snowy or slippery roads, there's something as smart/limited differential AWD thingy, basically doesn't hand out 100% rotation to only one, caps off at like 70% (value for illustrative purposes only), so other wheels get at least some rotation to get off that situation⟩⟩
In theory you are correct but what your explaining is called a open differential. Once you put lockers do it acts like a welded diff. Off-road the only difference I see from a awd vs a 4wd is that the 4wd usually can go into 2wd while the awd is stuck being 4wd. But yea it doesn’t matter if your awd or 4wd once you lift a tire off the ground. If you don’t have lockers then all the power goes to the tire with less resistance which is the one in the air
I wonder which is more effective in 7 inches of snow? I wish they could make a video having almost the same vehicle with winter tires and see which system is most effective to tackle deep snow. Thank you in advance. God Bless you all in this channel.:)
Well one thing I can say is that my AWD 2012 Subaru Legacy has no problems in 7 inches of snow. I was at work and we had a surprise blizzard and they hadn't plowed the streets when I was leaving so I had to drive home and it handled amazing. Best car I've ever driven in snow. Even was fun for a little drifting, too!
I remember looking at the stats and finding that a lot of older 4wd vehicles, especially non truck ones, were switchable awd. Take the Subaru brumby as an example, it had a selector handle, but the vehicle was actually awd, even with the selector, how I know this, the “4wd” function could be used while still rolling and moving. Without the clutch, in fact, it prefers you didn’t use the clutch. Most old style rally vehicles sold as 4x4, were just awd and didn’t even have a selector
Most modern 4WDs are "shift-on-the-fly". Even my '78 Jeep CJ7 could be shifted while rolling. Just lock the front hubs before climbing in. Subarus can be 4WD. Some people install switches and heavier diff clutches to be able to clamp the center diff and provide 4WD.
I heard that it’s the same thing but the term 4WD is used for bigger cars and the according to me the difference come if we are talking about 6x6 being 4WD or AWD which means AWD is be equal to 6WD for a 6 wheeler but 4WD would mean that only 4 of its 6 wheels will drive kinda tricky to understand
All-wheel drive, or AWD, refers to a system where all four wheels can gain traction independently of each other. The difference between AWD and 4WD is that AWD is typically always on while you can toggle between having 4WD on and off.
Yeah that's right and it all depends on what vehicle there's so many modern ones utilizing it now that people try to describe their own personal. I like to look back at the original setup like an old Land Rovers with no traction control we're basically there's an open differential in the transfer case allowing front and rear drive shafts to spin at different rates which is great for driving down the street or wet road but without traction control it pretty much becomes pointless pretty quick if you don't lock that transfer case differential into standard four-wheel drive axle lockers
I got a Jeep wrangler from 01 and it's never failed me on a few feet of snow ever. Honestly it comes down to knowing how to drive and how the car handles in the snow.
Great explanation. I wish you would have covered stopping ability in snow or ice. Nothing stops well in either. So if you have either don't suddenly grow some big ones and think that you can go forward with little difficulty and not get into trouble.
@@chriss377 mud tires are actually not great for snow. Also.... any 4wd vehicle will also have TCS and ABS.... That is like saying you like your AWD because it has an airbag. That stuff is standard bro.....
@@davedunks4647 I have a first gen Touareg with locking center and rear diffs. It's the best of both worlds. I have Blizzaks for winter. The Quattro system in my SUV still outperforms many newer cars and trucks. Most vehicles spend their whole life on the road where AWD really shines. You get more control at speed in a corner, the rain, the snow, and the ice. You have that extra grip ALL the time. Many new, FWD based AWD vehicles disengage the AWD above 25-35mph effectively giving up one the best parts of having AWD in an effort to save fuel. 4WD gives that up ALL of the time unless conditions are slick enough to stay in 4wd. The Touareg is really an AWD/4WD hybrid, all the benefits of both, no real downside except a small hit to fuel usage. Snow, keep going, getting deeper, lock the center diff, really deep lock the rear. Some rare ones also had locking fronts. Really hard to beat the only thing I would add is a 2wd option for long trips on dry roads to save fuel. I've owned everything from V8 muscle cars, a Porsche 911 rwd, lifted and not lifted trucks and Jeeps. None of them compare in all around performance to the Touareg/Cayenne/Q7 platform in my opinion. And my AWD does have airbags, in the suspension! Giving me something like 8 inches of range in ride height. The Touareg didn't take off in the US because at over 50k in 2004 it was more than most would spend on a VW, despite being the same running gear and suspension as the Porsche Cayenne and Audi Q7. And you could get this beast with a V10 TDI that will drag a Duramax in a tug of war.
I have a 2015 GMC Canyon All Terrain. I love it! It can be changed from RWD to AWD to 4WD and 4WD Low by turning a knob. I mostly use RWD but when it’s raining or light snow I use AWD, deeper snow 4WD and with lowered tire pressure on the beaches of NC I use 4WD. I have never had a problem.
That's actually pretty easy, although there's 2 meanings used for those, because marketing. A true symmetrical AWD system is physically symmetrical, in the sense that the driven axles at each end are the same length. This passively favors an even torque delivery between all the wheels. If you've ever driven a FWD (front wheel drive) with unequal length axles, you'll know what 'torque steer' is. That same passive bias created by the difference in axle lengths can cause one end of an AWD vehicle to accept or resist the application of torque. Most of the 'conventional' systems you see use a transversely mounted FWD vehicle as a basis, which may or may not have unequal length axles up front, and even if the front axles are the same length, they are usually shorter than those in the rear. Another factor in mechanical resistance to torque distribution is the 90 degree turn power has to make to get from the transaxle to the rear of the vehicle, which like the unequal axles, creates a passive torque bias. What that adds up to is that a lot of those 'conventional' AWD systems with the transverse drivetrain up front only deliver ~25% of the torque to the rear. That's enough to help with low traction a great deal, but not enough to seriously help with low traction due to loose surfaces (as opposed to hard surfaces with low friction, like wet or icy roads).
Most all wheel drive vehicles put 70% of the power to the rear and 30 Percent to the front. It's the same thing when you put lockers on your vehicle you do not have your lockers engaged when you are on tar. It's only for dirt. Or snow.
You need front and rear driver actuated lockers to get anywhere. The only vehicle that comes with this is the Jeep Rubicon and I believe the new Bronco. Any open differential sucks!
Never heard of a Detroit TruTrac? The idea of NEEDING driver-actuated lockers is hilarious. Lockers and hubs haven’t been manually actuated in like 30 years lol
I had a 4 wd Ram 1500 bighorn and my wife had an AWD Sub forester. The Forester is a beast in the snow. Much better then my Dodge with the exception of when needing clearance like unplowed roads.
We had a bad snow/ice storm and I had to pick up my wife from work. I remember driving past a Subaru Outback that couldn't make it up the hill and thinking how surprised I was that it was among many that couldn't make it but my Yukon in 4 Low cruised right up it. When I had to go to Saudi Arabia to work for the winter, my wife drove my Yukon during the Nebraska snowstorms and she told me she never missed a beat once since I taught her the difference between 4 High and 4 Low. I would have pulled you up the hill but I didn't have a rope.
I drive a symmetrical awd and it’s beautiful, I drive through puddles with speed and notice how the car gives power to the wheel that would usually slip. Never drove 4wd so I can’t compare
I’ve lived 19 total winter seasons in North Dakota, Colorado, and Vermont. I’ve primarily driven FWD vehicles and have NEVER used winter tires. I’ve never had any issues. You just keep alert and drive to the conditions.
FWD is going retry forgiving in rough conditions, look at rally racing for example FWD is much preferred over RWD. They’re hot as good as 4WD but they still pretty good.
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Of course according to SAE International Standard J1952 the preferred term for all of these systems is AWD and divided into 3 main categories which are Part-Time AWD, Full-Time AWD and On-Demand AWD. These split further into a total of 8 sub-categories of AWD.
Get to the freaking point faster dude.....you could have deleted the 1st 3 minutes of this video
This is also super misleading: 5:50
You make it sound as if simply driving in 4WD locks the rotation of all 4 wheels...it doesn't. It only locks the speed of the 2 front wheels to the 2 rear wheels. For example, your front left wheel can still turn faster than your front right wheel while in 4wd.
Only locking the differentials can force the wheels to share rotational speeds
ramble on you still never got to the point...
All wheels drive=AWD
AWD=4WD
AWD=6WD
AWD=8WD
Not is 4x4!.stupid
AWD=10WD
In short, awd can monitor and provide different amounts of power to each wheel to provide the most traction. 4wd is a constant power to all wheels.
This is what I was looking for. Thank you
Thank you
When it works. You get a star for brevity and efficiency.
Actually constant power to both front rear differentials, most vehicles have open differential so the power will go to one side depending on traction on the other tire
Not true 4wd only uses two wheels at once the power switches at the front and back differentials
2:32 is when he gets to the point
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Bro..I press this when I wad half way to the video..😂😂
He didn't say anything about gearbox and locking deferential...moron
For me, I think that the key takeaway is that constant power to all 4 wheels, instead of varying power makes for better off-road slow-speed conditions as opposed to varying power, which is better for high-speed on-road conditions.
Bingo. 4wd is better for off road. AWD is better for road use
So many words said to explain almost nothing.. you just complicated the difference. If on purpose, great job 👍
I agree with you 100% he just made be complicated if I never knew the difference I wouldn't get it from this video
They get to put more ads in videos (more profit) when the video is longer than 8 minutes. Used to be 10 minutes. It's the reason why a bunch of videos were 10:02 long. Now, they're all 8:02. Bunch of filler content.
Baaas. Correct. Too many stories here.
Exactly.
UA-camrs do that shit on purpose because they want to drag out the topics as much as possible, they want to meet or pass the 10min mark of video duration for the YT algorithm+ADs.
I just came to the comments to check what he is trying to say
All wheel drive means all wheels move especially the spare tire
*wheeeeeeeee!*
🤣🤣🤣
LOL
Lol
😂
Home grown Montanan here. Yep, got my license at 14 1/2 years old. I've driven them all, rear wd, front wd, 4wd, AWD . I learned how to drive in snow and ice in parking lots in a Rwd. Later I became a driver of all military vehicles available to me. I was a combat driver of a Bradley Fighting Vehicle in Iraq.... ok, enough credentials? Ive owned several Chevys, Ford trucks, Subarus and finally a Jeep TJ which I loved.
The worst driving conditions Ive experienced? 4th of July Pass from Idaho to Montana in a blizzard... in my Subaru Forester = the best possible experience. That car could easily out drive anything else, ANYTHING in snow and ice. For the money, availabilty, cost of maintenance etc. SUBARU!
Having spent the last 25 years driving tractor trailers I have some VERY good advice. I have driven over 2,000,000 miles without an accident. I see 4-wheel drives in the ditch every winter. I see two wheel drives(rear too) going right along in 2 feet of snow. I tell you exactly what to do. It’s all about weight on the tires that are engaged. A front wheel drive car goes well in snow because the weight of the engine is right on top of the front wheels that are engaged. A VW Beetle will go well in snow or mud because the engine is in the back right on top of the wheels that are engaged. In other words, if you have a two wheel drive truck spinning in the snow or something then put as much weight as you can get in the bed of it. Same thing with a car. If it’s rear wheel drive and you are stuck or have to drive somewhere then put as much weight as you can in the trunk. Seriously, in a semi if your trailer is empty or you have a light load then you spin and slide. In a semi if you attach to a trailer with 46,500 lbs in it then your truck goes almost like it’s on dry concrete. Ever see 18 wheelers going down the interstate when it’s covered with ice? Those trucks have heavy loads on and know what they’re doing.
Agreed, in every rear wheel car I ever had my dad taught me to throw in a couple 20-30lbs sand/salt bags in the trunk for the winter, spread them out as far out as possible to get the weight over the rears. Living thru CDN winters, rarely ever got stuck, but if I did I had some sand or salt on hand to help get some extra traction to free myself. Cheers & congrats on 2mil+ miles accident free! 👍🍻🇨🇦
Yup, a loaded semi can do better on snow/ice covered road than many AWD SUVs. It's more accurate to say though that it comes down to pounds per square inch. Essentially that we have and need well over 100PSI in our tires. A typical FWD car with some fat sporty tires is going to do worse than a typical front engine RWD car with narrow tires. A modern sporty 4WD pickup with fat 40psi tires, will do worse than an old school narrow tire pickup with 80psi tires.
In the semi truck world rigs with super single tires do worse because they have a lower pounds per inch requirement. I kind of drive truck in the snow for a living all winter. The worst offenders I see stuck all the time are doubles with super singles, they've sabotaged themselves that equipment choice.
Exactly
lol as a canadian driver i couldnt have said it better,
I’ve driven up snowladen mountains and in blizzards with my FWD Mits Galant! Surprise!
4x4: off-roaders
Awd: soft-roaders
@Jose Carranza Polio 4x4
Great anology. I think “awd: on-roaders” is more appropriate as 90% of the awd/4x4 owners probably never venture off paved roads.
Although you see Jeep Wranglers, running in the sand, climbing mountains, mudding, etc. have you seen Subaru in rally races ? which includes racing on gravel roads, snowy roads, and other difficult tracks, terrains, and environments during the WRC races ?
Also Subaru also has the Baja pick up truck, which gets raced in the desert, etc.
Subaru makes extremely well built and extremely capable full time awd system which works amazing.
Even in places that gets tons on snow, such as Russia, they drive and love Subarus.
Now that is Subaru quality and awesomeness.
I do like the Jeep Wranglers too, as well as the GM suv and pick ups, Suburban / Tahoe, Silverado, which has the option to activate the 4X4 from 2WD.
But for me, for the lighter vehicle category Subaru takes the cake.
But for me, for the heavier vehicle category, Jeep Wrangler, Chevy SUV and Pick ups, takes the cake.
Soft roaders : crv and rav4, it's not a true awd, like the subaru, both the crv and rav4 are more front wheel based / oriented systems.
Light but capable off roader vehicle Subaru. ( symmetrical awd ).
Heavy vehicle off roader 4X4 off road Jeep Wrangler, since it was built for it.
I have seen the older GM 4X4 pick up and large suv do quite well in the city and the countryside even with the thick snow.
Ford Raptor in the other hand could be a worthy match for the offroad Jeep Wrangler.
Awd on a truck platform with a real locking rear diff. That's much better
The first half of this video was pointless
Actually 4wd don't lock the front and rear differential unless you have lockers, those can be factory lockers or you can install them in the after market, like ARB lockers or so many different variants, and the lockers you have to active separately from the 4wd system, if you don't have them you won't lock each wheel, the video was great untill I heard that part🤦🏻♂️
YES! You are exactly right. You have saved me from writing it myself! Thank you
So the 2 front and 3 back wheels can go at different speeds?
exactly! AWD is just 4WD with traction control in a nut shell. but 4WD doesnt make 4 wheels rotate at the same speed, its just absurd.
@@lazuardiinggil Unless you have lockers, 3 wheels slipping means you not going anywhere ( the fourth wont get any power, the others are spinning)
Re think... If a front wheel and a back wheel is slipping then you are not going anywhere.
@@alanhilder1883 correct, thats why in 4wd truck u will find differential lock button when u stuck, in toyotas at least.
This should be mentioned. While 4wd does send equal power to all wheels when engaged, the front and rear differential do not apply to this (unless they electrically lock with the 4wd engagement). If a rear or a front wheel is off the ground, the opposing wheel on that axle will not move while the one in the air keeps spinning. So even if your 4wd is pushing though some slippery or unbalanced terrain, don’t expect all wheels to move at the same speed
Unless you have limited slips
So what's the difference between 4WD and AWD if not for the locked differential? do 4WD not have the ability to continuously change the power sent to different wheels like AWD? And doesn't ANW send equal power to all wheels when driving on normal road (unless you're turning or going up a hill)?
Lockers can be selectable or automatic. Diffs can also be welded. LSDs and torque-biasing diffs can act similarly to lockers. TCS can also vector torque.
@@fury9947 4WD locks the center diff. AWD allows for a bit of differentiation between front and rear drivelines.
Most 4WDs also offer a low gear. The Suzuki SX4 did not.
Some vehicles can lock the axle diffs, for the ultimate in traction.
Jeep SelecTrac, and similar systems, provide both 4WD AND AWD. SelecTrac also provides 2High, as well as 4Low.
@@RKmndo AND? what's that? Also is a vehicle has both 4WD and AWD doesn't that make it a full-time 4WD?
Currently, I drive the 2021 Honda CR-V Real Time AWD and no issues in the snow, heavy rain and low to medium volume of mud. It's a great AWD system so far made by Honda.
I have a CRV as well. Does well in snow and on ice, but we must realize that these cars, and most others (like Rav 4), are not true AWD systems. They are slip and grip systems. That is, they are normally FWD vehicles. When the front wheels detect slip the rear wheels will "kick in" temporarily to give you traction. Subaru, on the other hand, is a true AWD car, in that all 4 wheels are under power at all times. So when we are talking about, and comparing AWD to 4WD we almost have to specify slip and grip or true AWD.
@@alansach8437 what about acuras SHAWD
I agree. I own a 2016 AWD Honda CRV and have not had a single issue with this year make and model with 80,000 miles on it. Handles like a sports car in turns wet or dry and super dependable.
This is good to know because I want to get a new Honda Ridgeline despite it being an unpopular choice 😅. I'm not made of money so I couldn't get the more pricy options that include 4x4/4wd. The base model only has AWD and I wasn't sure if it was enough to comfortably operate in Colorado. I don't plan to go off road or any crazy stuff, I just don't wanna slip like Honda Civic Si does. I want to feel safe.
2019 honda pilot awd i confirm great sporty comfortable reliable
The thing I love about my AWD system is that it is "on demand". Normally, it is FWD, but if you hit patch of snow or water, it will instantly adjust the power to the front and rear wheels. My car also has trace control which will apply the brakes to certain wheels if you are going too fast into a corner.
What car do you have
name the car please
@@duychien94 Nissan Rogue.
Those AWD systems are standard in most vehicles, as well as stability control.
@@Dazlidorne Isn't Nissan rouge known for it's transmission problems?
now i know when i save up for a ram TRX what I'm actually buying...saved up so far... $4
lmfaooo don't give up
Keep grinding 💯
Save and get an STI have 50g remaining
Great just $89,996 more to go 😁
Dude I got Php 1. $1= Php 48
I have been amazingly surprised at my 2018 RAV4 AWD and it has gotten me out of two stupid mistakes going where I should not have gone. One sand and one mud. I could literally feel the power dancing between the wheels as needed to pull me through bad stuff. Six to eight inches of loose sand for a quarter mile uphill as once I started down and realized I had no where to turn around until bottom of hill but it pulled up through that will only one quick slip in a turn going back up. Don't think it made one full rotation before adjusting and grabbing. The second time was a dirt path that turned to frame deep mud on me. Got turned around and pulled right out again. I do not recommend these mistakes to anyone, but glad I had a Toyota. Mostly I car camp in desert or in national forests back east and so far so good. Not going to do any rock crawling or mud bogging so I am very happy. Just waiting for some snow but usually hate winter so try to avoid. Give me beach sand over snow any day.
fat lie
Actually, here’s a quicker, easier way to demonstrate the differences..
AWD: normally on Transverse mounted engines with a Haldex type system. 100% FWD, but can send 50% to the rear. The switch between front and rear is automatic.
4WD: normally on Longitudinal mounted engines. RWD based. Can send 100% of the power to the rear wheels on some vehicles. Usually an automatic system until Magna introduced a transfer case decoupler/disconnet to switch from 4WD to RWD on the fly used in the M5 and E63S. And recently introduced on AWD systems such as the A45S.
4X4: normally on longitudinal mounted engines, mostly on heavy duty vehicles, off road vehicles, and other. Reason being is for the full control of coupling or decoupling from 2x4 to 4x4, locking and unlocking differentials.
Thats why you dont see a rock crawling 4X4 setup on a CRV or A45S. They each have their purpose.
So what is my 2012 Rav4 XTR? As far as I can tell from reading it is driving all 4 wheels all the time but in normal conditions it favours the power to the front, I'm guessing 60-40 split. Then there's the switch on the dash (diff lock) which I understand to use an electrical signal to lock the drive somehow to make the power closer to 50-50, maybe 51-49.
Maybe I'm way off but it seems to work.
@@SalemikTUBE The RAV4 has a transverse engine with a FWD based AWD system, it can send 40-50% power to the rear if the system senses it needs it. But you probably have modes that can bypass the sensors and have the power sent in the rear in a semi-permanent fashion (40-50% power to the rear, if you have a rear diff then that 40-50% can be split 20-25 per wheel or 40-50 per wheel if needed) until you accelerate to a specific speed or switch modes.
Its all in the car’s brain. All the coding. Do this when this happens, do that if this happens, do this and that if this sensor detects this and that. Gibberish to us but computers do these calculations in micro/nano seconds.
RAV4 will favor FWD because of its mounting position (transverse) and transmission. That special edition RAV4 you have probably has an E-diff or 2 that bypasses the “traditional system” it has like in the regular RAV4, it doesn’t really “lock” your differential, but its doing its best to keep both sides left right turning at the same pace. the e-diff will make sure you get more torque where needed. Its like a beefier traction control in a way and Toyota’s Marketing made it seems super off road capable.
Its all in the ECU and TCU. (Engine+transmission control units) working together. Its not a true diff locker like 4X4 but it’s sufficient if you go camping in a light off-road trail. Dont go rock climbing or hill climbing, not enough power per wheel unless you tune it (may void warranty). If you want that extra “umph” of power without warranty issues, check to see if an OEM style K&N filter exists for your specification, they let the vehicle breathe way better. Also, if its a “direct injection” vehicle, consider an Oil Catch Can to minimize carbon built up. Not sure but some Toyotas have dual injection, ported and direct, if thats what you can, skip the catch can.
Hope I answered you question, let me know if you need more info.
@@SalemikTUBE but since its a 2012, the XTR can just be extra mods here and there, nothing to do with e-diffs and all that talk.
Very informative and intellectual..
One question.. have a 2017 rav4 awd with an echo option but I don’t know exactly how this system mechanically works .. please some information..
Also please some additional information to minimize fuel consumption..
Cheers..
For most drivers who’s priority is hassle free, on road traction, awd is the way to go. Traditional 4wd is not the best for rain or light snow conditions and give drivers a false sense of confidence.
Yup which is why I see trucks and 4x4s slipping all over the road when it snows, and they think they can plow through
i guess thats the reason why the Audi quattro S1 E2 rally car was 4x4
@@aftermarket5531 that makes sense bc 4x4 are more appropriate for extreme conditions like rallye racing. But for on-road usage in wet roads and light snow, awd is a better solution. But then all these mechanical systems pale in comparison to the sophisticated and fast acting ev awd systems.
Never had issues in my 4wd but I prefer awd on the road tbh.
@@aftermarket5531 lol I read that as season 1 episode 2. What's wrong with me?
We live in a very mountainous area of north central Washington state.
We’re 5 miles from town, (25 miles from the city), on a private road that we have to plow and maintain ourselves.
We get 5-7 feet of snow every winter so owning an AWD or 4WD vehicle is a necessity.
We put 260# of sandbags over the rear axle of our truck for better traction. We keep our pickup in 4WD for most of the winter.
Our Subaru’s are AWD and are the first vehicles that we’ve ever owned that we don’t have to put studded snow tires on in the winter.
Prior to buying our Subie’s we drove Toyota’s for 40+ years. Even though they were AWD or 4WD, we still had to put the studded snow tires on during the winter months.
With our Subaru’s, we drove on our factory tires year round until they wore out.
We now have Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires on both our Outback and Forester. Their Great on dry, wet, slushy and snow covered roads.
We have Cooper Discoverer A/T tires on our pickup.
Sounds like a stupid way to live.
@@jstravelers4094 We Love it.
@@jstravelers4094 What kind of comment is that?!!! They live in the country, have little traffic, little noise and enjoy peace and quiet. You must live in your mommy's cellar with your teddy bear snuggled in the wet corner of your bed that you pee in each night. How do you like that comment? Then, quit with the "one liner" condescending comments. Sheeezzz, you need to grow up.
@@Doc1855Sounds like a beautiful way to livr
@@lanemcnally5159 Yes, thank you. We live in a beautiful area
Baja 100 racers are surprisingly mostly RWD vehicles. I think the reason is they require a lot of suspension travel which is difficult to achieve in the front.
Someone is thinking about trophy cars😅...... while most of us will die without seeing one
Has to do with weight also. Less weight up front means less nose diving. Makes them better for jumping and more so the landing.
And they carry so much momentum when they are blasting across Baja it doesn’t matter if they have 4WD/AWD or not
These all have incredible amounts of horse power too
To break the argument,4wheel is better while doing an off-road while Allwheel is better on good roads with different weather conditions
Get full time 4 wd. Best solution!
You are 100% correct . God bless you
@@kr9713 if money wasnt an issue. Lol
@@kr9713 "get truck fellar"
Saved like 6 mins mate thanks
My full size Bronco is four wheel drive with traction lock in front and rear. As long as one tire has grip, I can go
1:55 lmao I thought that Audi got a minigun mounted for the second
Lol me too 😂😂😂😂 until I checked closer and realized it's actually a railgun!
LAME@@vanderwallstronghold8905
@ whoever made this video.
Putting your jeep or pickup in 4WD does not lock the differentials. You have to turn on the diff lock to do that.
What causes the binding or front wheel differential wind up is that in 4WD your wheels are NOT set to turn at the same speed, but rather your front wheels are set to turn a tiny percentage faster to give you better control (grip and steering) in slippery conditions. Therefore you are NOT to use 4WD in normal conditions where you have good grip on all four wheels. But your differentials are still working normally and if you are going really fast on a wet road 4wd will help you to corner better if you are accustomed to driving with it.
Not to throw shade, but it doesn't feel like you really know what you're talking about. The simple was of explaining AWD Vs 4WD is AWD has three diffs, 4WD has two. 4WD is part time, AWD is fulltime. Sure, some AWD can disconnect an axle, but they still have a diff/viscous coupling between the trans and the driven axle.
BMW's X-drive is *technically* 4WD, not AWD, as it has a transfer case that engages the front axle, and only two diffs. But it is driven like AWD.
Likewise Subaru's older AWD setups(2000-2010) just use two LSDs and a open diff in the front, no fancy tech. Having owned many they are the BEST in snow and mud. This is after owning BMW's X-drives, Audi's Quattro, and many 4WD trucks.
4WD and locking hubs is fantastic off road/snow/mud. If its 4WD and two open diffs, its no better than RWD + LSD in the snow. A good AWD system with 3 LSDs is the best in all conditions, as they behave like a 4WD in snow, but better. Without getting too in depth, snow has a low kinetic friction but a high static friction, so once you are sliding its harder to find grip. 4WD loses to AWD because of that, as the requirement for the front and rear axles to spin at the same rate forces slip. any wheel slip hurts traction massively in snow, leading to AWD winning over 4WD.
So is the audi quatrro Considered a 4 wheel drive
There's even better explanation. Differentiating AWD and 4WD is stupid. It tells nothing about the effectiveness of the system and its architecture. Just learn how each system works and don't pollute your brain with useless thinking. Just part time AWD, coupling unit AWD, 3 differential permanent AWD, Super Select part-time 3 differential AWD... - it's not that hard to remember all these, especially when you're about to spend $50k+ on a brand new vehicle. Imagine buying Wrangler Sport instead of a Rubicon because "Idk, it's 4WD too but it's cheaper, must be some dealership's bullshit". THEY ARE NOT THE SAME NOR EQUALLY GOOD, EVEN THE FREAKING LOW GEAR RATIOS ARE DIFFERENT!
@@ldmtag there's only three that I know of, part time AWD, full time AWD and 4WD. hell, id argue that the part time AWD from the Hondas is actually 4WD, because there is NO center Dif, just a viscous coupling.
4WD VS AWD is super simple, and not classing the systems biased on their characteristics/topology is idiotic. None of the classes you stated make any sense, nor actually exist.
There's three that do exist: AWD, Part time AWD, and 4WD. Anything else is incorrect.
does that mean that quattro and DCCD are the same? NO! but they are in the same class, AWD.
@@thenewhalogod Actually 4. Part-time 4WD like many 4x4s or full time like the luxury trucks/suvs. Or for the hardcore vehicles like the Trackhawk or the Ram TRX.
6:00 The only time a four-wheel-drive jeep or truck will have all four wheels locked going the same speed is if you have your E lockers turned on, or you’ve got spools front and rear, differential action still occurs even when the vehicle transfer case splits power between the front and rear axle in four-wheel-drive, no auto manufacturer put spools in their street driven cars
i was going to say that. guy is nuts if he thinks running in 4 wheel drive will have all four wheels locked together even in a curve. that would quickly ruin your tires as the inside tires would be scuffing as the radius is larger on the outside of a curve than the inside.
True, trying to turn a fully locked real 4wd on street all you get it chirp chirp chirp. Need that differential wheel spin. But have to say electronic brake assist has come a long way, till it overheats or an abs sensor wire gets clipped.
Your 4WD bit is wrong mate. Unless your front and rear diffs are locked, your wheels will spin at different speeds whilst cornering if you have an open or limited slip differential, which come stock in most 4WD vehicles. If you have a mechanical locking diff then stay under the torque threshold and it won’t lock and it’ll act as an open diff. If you have air or electronic lockers they won’t engage until you specifically tell them to engage(usually when you are in a sticky situation… or lack their of 😂). Your explanation of when 4WD is engaged is as if the front and rears have spool lockers… which really shouldn’t be on the road unless it’s a drift car in RWD. In short… Yes, in 4WD the transfer case locks the front and rear driveshafts to spin together. However! The differentials determine the locking(or not) of the wheels at the same speed.
This!!! This!!!
Shifting form 2WD to 4WD is not the same as locking differentials (in fact you can lock the differential on most 2WD trucks). You are simply engaging another axel to the drive train. This second axel still lets your inside and outside wheels turn independantly in 4WD - they will only turn at the same speed when your differentials are locked. This locks the planetary gear in the differential, which normally lets wheels spin at independant speeds, so that if one side loses contact with the ground, or slips, it doesnt rob all the torque/power from the side still in contact.
Which is why I bought a Ridgeline. I'm generally on the road and want something that will get me through a foot and a half of snow in the winter. I also go gopher hunting in the summer and need something that will get me up and down in the coulees and short grass prairie. Otherwise its dump runs and hauling drywall and plywood home. The Ridgeline does all of these things really well and has an intelligent traction vectoring system that I've seen plowing through obstacles with one rear wheel 2 feet off the ground. So yeah, with all that I have no need to continually feed a thirsty 5.7L V-8 just to haul my butt around Calgary and area. Besides that the independent 4 wheel suspension ensures a much more comfortable ride for the 90% of the time that it will be in the city or on a highway.Time to enjoy all that brilliant tech under the dashboard. I'm not hauling an RV the size of a Greyhound Bus across Canada, but I could easlly haul two motorcycle and a quad (My bike 850lbs, my son's bike 600lbs, a Honda Rubicon 520: 700lbs, 10 foot trailer 1000lbs - total 3150lbs) and still have another 1850lbs worth of gear left to haul without even touching the in-vehicle payload (another 1530lbs). So, when I was researching a replacement for my much-missed 2018 Ram Longhorn, I had to be honest with myself exactly how much truck I actually needed. After 30 years in Agriculture I've driven them all and to be honest, choosing the Ridgeline, an AWD Unibody was an easy choice. For those of you who "just can't do it", I understand. There's lots of cramped, harsh-riding, loud mid-sized 4 wheel drive body-on-frame trucks for you. Btw I do not in any way work for Honda although I did own a CR-V in the past and that was also bullet proof.
Your boyfriend....."Mr Honda" is so proud of you.
@@jstravelers4094I stand by my well-reasoned position on the Ridgeline. Even more so perhaps because I've had it for more than a year now and it hasn't disappointed, creeper comments notwithstanding...
I have a Subaru and a Cadillac both AWD the caddy has different modes but I absolutely love it
I drive a Defender. It is an AWD, but it comes with a sweet central diff locker, which can bring the better of both worlds, in high or low gear. It's a pretty fun car to drive on and off road, if you're not interested in speed of course.
A Defender is an off-road Icon! They are set apart from the rest,,,,except for the Jeep Wrangler,,,Toyota Landrcruiser,,,,I have one too,,,,front and rear differential that can lock,,,,with the ability to crawl over rocks, muds, sand and snow. And totally comfortable. Cheeers
@@georgetidd8972 ayyy sweet! Mine has the ARB locker on both diffs for extra fun! 😈
For all non-technical people, the video starts at 8:32 😁.
tires are number 1 if you want to get places. It doesn't matter if you have 4x4 lockers and all the high tech if you have bald tires...
It's so funny when people think having awd or 4wd makes your car a tank that can do anything even a 40year old awd or 4wd and they don't know how to drive them like the amount of videos rn of people stuck who are just using full throttle to try and get out a ditch or unstuck etc
U just jelly buy awd then get winter tires then thank me later fun experience
@@johnclassified36 eh, walmart has zip tie chains for ice, and the key to mastering 4wd is patience, not speed.
I have a awd from 1982 and it still goes through more rocks mud bushland then a 4x4
@@mrspacecadet4441 what model? Unless it's something roughly triple the market value of the time, a 4X4 would run it better.
@@kirknay buy awd thank me later
Another point is that 4WD designs are far older and haven't changed much in decades. AWD hasn't been around as long and has been improved significantly in that time. 4WD is also simpler and would be (probably) less expensive to fix if a differential or your transmission failed compared to AWD. However, based on your video AWD is probably more useful in the vast majority of situations you will be in if you aren't regularly going genuinely off-road. 4WD would be preferable if you are regularly towing or carrying heavy loads, though. The more complex transmission/differential setups have lower limits on how much torque it takes to break them.
Thanks for information
Not at all the only use for 4wd is off road if you have ever seen or even better driven a car with a welded or locked rear diff you would have seen how bad they are on the road they are just bad at everything except going straight a 4wd is kind of the same you have locked the front and rear axles together so going straight on a smooth flat road you would know but anything the car will fight you however off road there is much less traction and the wheels can just slip a bit where needed
I would take a full time 4 wheel drive in the Landcruiser, Lexus LX and GX anyday over any AWD system. It has a real center differential and when shit hits the fan, it’ll get you out of anywhere!
Wrong on just about everything you stated
“If if aint broke, don’t fix it.”
Well explained video!
I live in Colorado, we had knee deep fluffy powder snow and my kid needed to get her friend home from my place. My other kid had a '98 RAV4 which was great in snow as it was AWD and very light and it had some ground clearance. The knee deep snow was thick enough that it sapped the RAV's meager power output. so driving it was pretty simple - lots of throttle to pedal to the metal and steer, as the thick snow did cause the light RAV to wiggle around more than a little. It reminded me of riding my dirt bike at speed in the sand. In those conditions the RAV was very predictable and simply didn't have enough power to get into any real trouble.
We got to where we needed to be and a BMW X5 was crabbing sideways in the middle of the road, struggling to go up a hill. Being a dirt bike rider and understanding that momentum is everything in these situations, I passed the Beemer to it's right and on the sidewalk (which was even deeper snow) pedal to the metal and we passed that Beemer like a comet, trailing a giant snow plume as the snow was pure powder. This was great fun and the teenage girls were laughing their asses off at the aggressive/properly driven '98 RAV > BMW X5 antics 😂
Got the girl home and was a legend with my younger daughter. Good times...
I would say all wheel drive takes four-wheel-drive to the next level with advanced technology. Complement all wheel drive with a set of aggressive tires and you are good to in most real road situations.
You failed to even mention "high" and "low" range. I've personally never seen an awd with "low" range. This is HUGE.
My dodge durango rt is awd and has a low setting 2015.
@@Brandtyboy1 very interesting! Thank you for that information. Leave it to Dodge (the best at engineering and understanding power)!
All V8 toyota 4runners have low and awd.
@@Hobblecreekkid Thank you, I had no idea. Then again i would never have spent any time in a Toyota ever in my life. So I'm glad you told me or i would never know that for sure.
@@Brandtyboy1 Hey my 06 Dakota rt was setup the same way! That truck went through everything. Even pulled myself out of a ditch full of snow up to the doors. Crawled out in a matter of seconds.
Awd spins can be a bitch if it catches you off guard. Lol
tires can make a huge difference, whether you have a 2 or 4 (awd) wheel drive. it just adds to traction and stopping power.
Tires are important.
You got this topic right. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 One side note, grip. Tires types for different terrains are key. The other is AWD’s use the front axle/ Transmission to drive over the roads. Unlike 4X4’s, they use the rear wheels to travel over terrains. I found a UA-cam video that shows a Subaru unable to drive up a mountain incline in a forward motion. Then they tried in reverse- successful. I believe that rear vehicle weight is more ideal for off road mountain inclines.
So far no one seems to have gotten the definitions correct (not even the video poster). AWD is for cars and some SUVs... and it means there is possibly power to front and rear (depends on center differential type). 4wd, or 4w4 is for SUVs and trucks, and means it has the ability to possibly send power to front and rear (depending on the center differential type), and.... AND it has LOW RANGE. So the 4WD and AWD can be in part time, full time (open diff), full time (limited slip diff), and select-able (both). The only industry standard difference between the two is a Low Range Gear set on the transfer-case. THAT IS IT. Plain and simple. Now traction side to side is a completely different issue. The axle diffs (front or rear) can have open, limited slip, locked, spooled/welded, and select-able. Each brand is different, as are all the aftermarket options. The systems can also be implemented or supplemented by ABS/computer controlled braking systems to create or aid in the limited slip feature of the axles, and/or even the center differential functionality. So to make it short and sweet.... the difference between AWD and 4WD is if it has a Low range unit on the Xcase.... that is literally it.
AWD systems are NOT all created equal. Most modern Subaru systems are NOT FWD-based.
@@musicfan9309 You don't seem to have gotten the definition quite correct either. AWD allows differentiation between the front and rear drivelines. 4WD does not.
Some 4WDs don't offer low gearing. Some vehicles are equipped with both 4WD AND AWD, like the Jeep XJ SelecTrac or the Suzuki SX4.
4WD doesn’t lock your front and rear differentials. Those are lockers and if you drive that fancy rubicon you should know. A 4WD vehicle has a transfer case that typically only applies power to the rear wheels. But at a flick of a switch or twist of a knob or pull of a handle. Your transfer case is engaged then applying power to the print wheels. If you have a open diff or limited slip the power will go to the wheels with least resistance hence why lockers are so important in the 4WD community.
He's clearly Jeeple, he doesn't know much at all.
@@lolbuster01 I mean I drive a Jeep but I at least know😂😂.
Well, hold on now. The opening:
I have 4WD now, but I didn't always have it. But I could drive in any condition and keep it in the road and up the hills with front wheel drive. Similarly, my first car was a VW bug and I could drive that in anything (engine weight was in the back, but still over the drive wheel).
It is easier now, with 4WD...but you can't say that front wheel drive cars can't handle it. They are quite capable, dependent on the driver.
Grip and weight. Thaaaank you for saying it. If you have a rear wheel drive vehicle (assuming the engine is upfront) put as much weight in the trunk as you can, get good tires, and dont drive recklessly and you'll do fine in most bad weather on the road.
Not in 2' of snow.
AWD is the best way to go unless you actually are OFF-ROAD.
@@jstravelers4094 snow isn't the problem, ice is.
Explanation starts at 2:15
I've driven big/small rear drive cars with posi and without, same for front drive, different 4x4 trucks and AWD and in snow/mud/sand and nothing beats a primary rear AWD setup for control. I do drive a newer ridgeline now but my favourite was still my 02' 6 liter yukon denali. Absolute best setup in any weather. No torque vectoring, No electronic aids. Worked perfectly too for the entire time i owned it with zero maintenence or upgrade to suspension or differentials for over 300k.. Never got stuck anywhere and was a dream to drive.
friend of mine used to have this really old ass jeep that i loved.
the thing was normally pure rear drive, but he could enable four wheel drive from inside, you had to actually lock the differential from the outside however.
this thing was a beast too, really fun to just rear wheel drive on snow if you know what you're doing, but also basically unstoppable with the differential locked.
we tied an old mattress to the crash bar on the front and used it to plow snow.
our local fire station also used to have an old soviet military truck painted red, that thing was badass, got you in and out of anywhere, especially with the pump trailer detached.
now we got this shit IVECO truck that only has rear wheel drive and has all the heavy equipment and a water tank on it, you drive this thing one metre off the road and it's fucked.
@windhelmguard5295 Went to a mudholing event one year with a guy who had an old willy's jeep.. unmodified. The other guys had brought a 4wd chevy tracker and his son a jacked up firefly on a stacked tracker frame. It was funny watching jacked up full sized chevys and fords getting stuck and these unmodified old vehicles passing them on mucky trails. Tracker got hung up once. That's it. Firefly had broken one of the bunch of wheel spacers to accommodate the 50 inch tires it had and had to be trailered out. Lol
Winter driving is a different animal though. Having the right machine and experienced driving skill make all the difference. Do like the mattress thing though.. considered looking for something to mount to the bush bar on my ridgeline. 😜
no offense
nobody:
this dude:"smash the like button" *shows subscribe button*
Most 4x4 have limited slip differentials and will only send power to1 wheel in the
Front and 1 in the rear... unless you have lockers front and rear.
Very few have lsd.
You're mistaken when it comes to LSDs (it's a common misunderstanding and I mean no offense). Open differentials send power to the wheel with the least amount of traction which usually gives you one wheel drive on slippery surfaces (or under hard power) while the other wheel gets no power. In a 4wd truck with the center differential locked, if you have open front and rear diffs then you'll get the 2wd effect (the front and rear wheels with the least amount of traction will spin while the other two wheels get no power). Limited slip differentials work in a variety of ways (most commonly using clutch packs) but they have the advantage of allowing the inside and outside wheels to spin at different speeds going through a low speed turn like an open diff, but they also lock the wheels together of one wheel loses traction. This is also why you can slide a RWD vehicle with a limited slip through turns; if you mash the accelerator through a turn, it'll lock the wheels to prevent excessive wheel speed differences. A diff that is fully locked all the time will have an advantage in only the most extreme off road conditions, but otherwise having a limited slip gives you the best of both worlds.
Edit: corrected some words and added a little more (possibly redundant) information to hopefully offer a better explanation.
@@SkyFoxMarine As a passer-by, I appreciate the information.
@@ELITEViRuZz no worries, I love educating as much as I love being educated. Knowing how things work is a passion that extends to more than just vehicle related things. I did fix a couple of words and added a little more information in hopes that it makes things clearer. Hope you're enjoying your weekend!
@@SkyFoxMarine Hey man, same. I'm fascinated with understanding the how and why behind almost everything. My brain feels packed with absolutely useless information, but when someone says "I wonder why..." And you're able to answer it for them, it makes it all worth it. Have a great weekend and great life man.
Easy answer AWD is for mainly on road use but can handle light OFF road once in a wile. 4X4 is for when you just have to get there no matter what. 4X4 wins every time boys and girls. 😎
I live where we average over 200" of snow per season. I used to have a Grand Cherokee with full time 4wd. It was great on road or off without having to worry. I rarely had to put it low, but it was not the most reliable vehicle. Now I have a Subaru Forester. It does great in the snow and on challenging dirt roads around here. Have done some light off roading in it. Both handled weather conditions around here very well, and the Jeep would go most anywhere.
Full time 4x4 wears tires faster costs fuel economy but its great for people who cannot drive
Subie also had a power center of gravity because of the H motor, which helps too.
@@lorriebuxton2041 you could just have said 2x2 for driving, and 4x4 for getting unstuck
In Germany we say: allwheeldrive,
then we specify: permament/non permament/, lockable/non lockable
What would a tesla be?
Permanent , non lockable?
@@jamesparson good question, idk. i assume allwheeldrive non lockable desribes it pretty good.
0:40 I already know but I stuck around anyways because I have nothing better to do with my boring life.
God Jesus created you special..you don't have a boring life you have a great life Jesus Christ will show you what to do lean on him
@@generalking6095 no
@@radanju3 but He is holding and counting on you
I think I'm the only person on this planet who doesn't get excited over Jeeps.
No. I'm with you on this one. Jeeps are trash unless it's a 90's cherokee with the 4.0L
Nope. I've seen death wobble and what Fiat Chrysler has turned out. I'll pass.
There's me too.
I can’t stand jeeps
I'll pass on Jeeps. I think they're overhyped.
Russian "Niva" is the best SUV of all time! Yeah boy)
I have seen Russians that drives and loves the Subarus.
Until you move the seat back and forward too much and it shorts the wiring on the body and burns out the whole vehicle hahaha
@@marksmanssv8318 : Lada Niva Seats ?
Yeah the Niva seats. Cause the seat rails just ran on the carpet and they just put the wiring loom under it
☝🏻🤣🤣🤣😅😂😂😂🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Hello, I grew up in north - I drove 2 wheel drive car or pick up with real snow tires(rubber stays softer in cold weather)-not mud tires- with weight in the rear - did not matter auto or manual trans - limited slip or standard rear axle - front wheel drive was better with snow tires on front - went anywhere I need to - back in those days it was experience, wisdom, & knowing your vehicle. Thank You !
My 4x4 F-250 with all terrain tires is a beast in mud, snow, and rocks. The added height clearance is crucial as well. I generally have to be quick switching in and out of 4 wheel drive in the mountains because the main roads are generally plowed and good to go. That front wheel hop feels terrible and I don't want to ruin my differentials, transmission and damage the tires but no way would I go with an all wheel drive vehicle in the conditions of 8,000 feet, non paved steep grade roads, with rain and snow.
@@Soul77.7 whatever bro
Things you think about in bed that keeps you up all night:
I've got a lift kit and 32x10.5 M/T tires on my AWD Volvo XC60, and it's been absolutely fantastic on sand.
It depends on the terrain. A proper 4WD access only track usually requires a 4WD and 4WD only. Otherwise, unless it is relatively flat, you're stuffed. In a AWD, you can't lift a wheel. What I mean by this is, when you lift a wheel in an AWD, the while in the air usually gets all the power, as most AWD difs are open. Of you vehicle has 4WD on, you may lift as many wheels as you please and all wheels will spin equally. However, 4WDs have different things that you put them in, like high and low range, the ability to lock and unlock difs, so on. This is how I understand it.
Your comment that "most AWD diffs are open" is just false. That's the whole benefit of AWD, if a wheel is in the air on an AWD it stops turning because it has no grip and the torque was re-directed to the wheel with grip. Different AWD manufacturers do this different ways, torque vectoring vs. independent wheel braking, etc.
I think some AWD vehicles will under control of a computer, will detect excessive difference in wheel RPM and apply breaking to the spinning wheel.
Nope
@@bradwillems4070 Yes called brake Traction control.All modern AWD and 4WD vehicles use this system.Different manufacturers calibrate it differently,and some 4WD manufacturers also use cross axle diff locksAll use center diff lock.
Great video Brad. Missed one thing though. Gear ratios. All wheel drive vehicles have same gear ratios front and rear so they don’t destroy themselves driving around in high grip situations while 4 wheel has a slightly higher gearing in the front causing the front end to pull giving the driver the ability to steer better in slick situations. This is also why you need to be able to switch out of 4 wheel drive when the grip is good. Handling between all and 4 wheel is completely different in the slick as well but you could hit that topic in a different video. Thanks again Brad!
So far no one seems to have gotten the definitions correct (not even the video poster). AWD is for cars and some SUVs... and it means there is possibly power to front and rear (depends on center differential type). 4wd, or 4w4 is for SUVs and trucks, and means it has the ability to possibly send power to front and rear (depending on the center differential type), and.... AND it has LOW RANGE. So the 4WD and AWD can be in part time, full time (open diff), full time (limited slip diff), and select-able (both). The only industry standard difference between the two is a Low Range Gear set on the transfer-case. THAT IS IT. Plain and simple. Now traction side to side is a completely different issue. The axle diffs (front or rear) can have open, limited slip, locked, spooled/welded, and select-able. Each brand is different, as are all the aftermarket options. The systems can also be implemented or supplemented by ABS/computer controlled braking systems to create or aid in the limited slip feature of the axles, and/or even the center differential functionality. So to make it short and sweet.... the difference between AWD and 4WD is if it has a Low range unit on the Xcase.... that is literally it.
Most 4WD have the exact same gear ratio front and rear... if they have a different one due to limitations in the manufacturing of specific axles... it's off by a negligible amount, and you can HOPE it's faster speed in the front vs the rear, but not always and not necessarily... So a pair of axles can have a 4.10 and 4.11 combo, or a 3.54 and 3.55 combo... but that is negligible. Tire variation, wear, air-pressure, and weight over each axle (front vs rear) will have a greater affect on the ground speed of the rubber hitting the road. The only time two axles are very different in axle gear ratios are 4wd tractors with two different tire sizes.... and then the ratios are calculated to compensate for the tire diameter difference.
@@musicfan9309 To add to what you've said, most of the time when there is a difference in front vs rear ratios, it is because of a staggered tire size setup. The difference in ratios is to get the same effective road speed delivered from each end with the different circumference of tire. It really has nothing to do with 'pulling' you in a given direction - delivering thrust in loose materials is what does that, if you have the right tires to churn through those loose materials.
@@musicfan9309 4WD locks the front and rear drivelines together. AWD allows some differentiation.
Some 4WDs have no low-range.
The Suzuki SX4 with rear driveline could be switched between 2WD, AWD, and 4WD. It had no low-range.
Many modern CUVs lack low-range, even if they can clamp/lock the front and rear drivelines together.
@@RKmndo Wrong! Landrover Classic Range rover and Defender -> permanent 4x4, lockable central dif.
I was working a horse show one weekend and we had just come off 3 days of rain. The parking area for the guests bringing in there horses was trashed after 5 or 6 trucks parking their trailers. 2 vehicles that pulled in stuck oit to me more than the others. One was a for excursion with a v10 gas motor that was pulling a 20 ft trailer. That truck never flinched. The other one was an AWD chevy express van with factory tires and wheels. That damn thing pulled in and went right where it wanted to without flinching. Handled that greasy lot better than the most expensive 4x4 trucks there. And. It was a damn passenger van. One of the coolest things i ever seen. I would love to have one of those.
Great video, great content on AWD, very entertaining. However, misleading in 4WD. The difference between AWD and 4WD is the transfer case or low range gear in the gear box. At the end of the day, all AWD systems split the torque from the gear box (transmission) output to all 4 wheels by means of open differentials, limited slip differentials, viscous couplings etc, but always 3 differentials. 4WD will have 2 or 3 differentials and the torque from the gear box output will input a transfer case and its output will split the torque to all 4 wheels. The transfer case will contain a low range gear which will increase the gear box torque by up to 100% in some old models. Newer models may or may not have a transfer case but will have a low range gear. Also, it's worth noting that when the low range is engaged, the car's velocity gets reduced to less than 50% in some models due to the low range gear.
So far no one seems to have gotten the definitions correct (not even the video poster). AWD is for cars and some SUVs... and it means there is possibly power to front and rear (depends on center differential type). 4wd, or 4w4 is for SUVs and trucks, and means it has the ability to possibly send power to front and rear (depending on the center differential type), and.... AND it has LOW RANGE. So the 4WD and AWD can be in part time, full time (open diff), full time (limited slip diff), and select-able (both). The only industry standard difference between the two is a Low Range Gear set on the transfer-case. THAT IS IT. Plain and simple. Now traction side to side is a completely different issue. The axle diffs (front or rear) can have open, limited slip, locked, spooled/welded, and select-able. Each brand is different, as are all the aftermarket options. The systems can also be implemented or supplemented by ABS/computer controlled braking systems to create or aid in the limited slip feature of the axles, and/or even the center differential functionality. So to make it short and sweet.... the difference between AWD and 4WD is if it has a Low range unit on the Xcase.... that is literally it.
@@musicfan9309 what i was looking for finally..
I recommend everyone to check Engineering explained channel about this subject to get the real knowledge.
I would rather have a good pair of snow tires and FWD than summer tires and AWD. FWD transmissions last longer than AWD too. And cars with a FWD tend to be about 800 dollars cheaper on average.
This is a question that I’ve been asked too many times. It is a complicated topic. For example... the many various types of 4WD systems (I think Jeep had 3 types during their Cherokee years - during the same model year) and of course all of different AWD systems. Tricky subject. You handled it well. Great editing. Thanks for the video.
I had a 1981 Ford Bronco and was told if I put the Bronco in 4WD or 4H on pavement, it could bust an axle. Is that true? The 4WD Bronco worked great on dirt or snow, but I never took the chance on putting the Bronco in 4WD on pavement.
@@69FOSTER You mess that up only if you use front or rear diff lock, provided the car has this feature, and take turns. When taking a turn, the wheels on the exterior have to cover more distance than the interior ones, so they rotate faster (this means "open differential"). If you lock the diff (the term is "locked differential"), either on front or rear, you make the wheels from that side rotate together at the same speed, even in turns, and that will mess up the system. If you don't have or don't engage diff lock, then the only downside of going 4wd on pavement is more fuel consumption. You can google open vs. locked differential, even here on YT there are videos with more details on the topic.
What’s with those long videos for something that can be explained in a minute or less. Is it for monetizing?
My Ram also has 4WD Auto, on top of High and Low, that basically mimics AWD. It's great for compacted dirt roads and heavy rain.
AWD is always better on public roadways.
4WD is for off roaders.
It's that simple.
On 4WD the front differential is usually geared slightly faster for extra control off road. This causes the rear to receive an small amount more torque, as the front has slightly more loss due to the faster ratio. This can be proven by locking four wheel drive in and travelling approximately 35-55MPH, a slight vibration can be felt due to micro-traction loss. Other than sating 4WD distributes power 100% equally to all four wheels, great video.
So you could avoid this vibration by having a slightly smaller diameter wheels in front?
You could have given me a heads up before throwing the clip at 7:57 at us 😭😭😭 Had me dieing at 4 am
*n y o o o m*
I live in a very rural area with steep hills. When we get snow and or ice, my four wheel drive has done way better than my all wheel drive.
You own the wrong AWD vehicle.
My AWD vehicle is as good or better than any 4WD vehicle I have driven.
And you don't even need to think about it.
Thank you so much. I've never really known the difference
The difference is this:
Guys who know what they're doing buy AWD.
Guys who think they know what they're doing buy 4WD.
That M5 drift record though;
I had a late 90's Jeep. I think, it was around '99 or so. In general, it worked great getting places. However, when making sharper turns, you could sometimes hear the tires grind against the pavement, presumably because of the less than ideal balance in rotational speeds, while cornering. When there was heavy rain, or snow, it REALLY felt precarious around even mild curves. I felt like I had to pay extra attention, to keep it from sliding off the road. Later, I got a Mercury Mountaineer, and it had AWD. It always felt completely capable, and it it did much better, in the ice, rain, and snow. Now, I have a Pilot, and it will get me anywhere I want to go. Traction control makes a difference, too. I had a [heavy] V8 Continental, that would even climb icy hills, while it was raining. This was on a road, where I had trouble standing, once I got out of the car.
If you're totally confused, here's the simple version -
AWD - 4 wheels rotate freely over one/two accel(s), the entire rotational power is divided as per demand - can rotate more = rotates more. So when your car turns or any wheel need more rotation than the other, it can do so.
BAD WHEN one wheel is slipping/floating, since ALL the rotation goes into it, and others get none.
4WD - all wheels rotate at the same speed, so even when one wheel is floating, rest move as usual.
BAD WHEN different wheels need different rotation, esp. in the turns as some wheels will be slipping, and even if you survive the turn, your tires won't, they'll wear off faster.
⟨⟨ For snowy or slippery roads, there's something as smart/limited differential AWD thingy, basically doesn't hand out 100% rotation to only one, caps off at like 70% (value for illustrative purposes only), so other wheels get at least some rotation to get off that situation⟩⟩
In theory you are correct but what your explaining is called a open differential. Once you put lockers do it acts like a welded diff. Off-road the only difference I see from a awd vs a 4wd is that the 4wd usually can go into 2wd while the awd is stuck being 4wd. But yea it doesn’t matter if your awd or 4wd once you lift a tire off the ground. If you don’t have lockers then all the power goes to the tire with less resistance which is the one in the air
I wonder which is more effective in 7 inches of snow? I wish they could make a video having almost the same vehicle with winter tires and see which system is most effective to tackle deep snow. Thank you in advance. God Bless you all in this channel.:)
Well one thing I can say is that my AWD 2012 Subaru Legacy has no problems in 7 inches of snow. I was at work and we had a surprise blizzard and they hadn't plowed the streets when I was leaving so I had to drive home and it handled amazing. Best car I've ever driven in snow. Even was fun for a little drifting, too!
7inches of snow is child's play for anyone that is equipped with adequate tires and winter driving knowledge.
7:56 weeeeeee
Was that a bird?.... Did it hit a bird?
My brother lives in South Dakota. Had a Ridgeline with AWD. He had no problem driving in winter.
I remember looking at the stats and finding that a lot of older 4wd vehicles, especially non truck ones, were switchable awd.
Take the Subaru brumby as an example, it had a selector handle, but the vehicle was actually awd, even with the selector, how I know this, the “4wd” function could be used while still rolling and moving. Without the clutch, in fact, it prefers you didn’t use the clutch.
Most old style rally vehicles sold as 4x4, were just awd and didn’t even have a selector
Most modern 4WDs are "shift-on-the-fly". Even my '78 Jeep CJ7 could be shifted while rolling. Just lock the front hubs before climbing in.
Subarus can be 4WD. Some people install switches and heavier diff clutches to be able to clamp the center diff and provide 4WD.
wat? I can toss my jeep into 4wd at anytime.... be it parked or 70mph on a freeway
Answer: marketing. Saved ya nine minutes of rambling.
I heard that it’s the same thing but the term 4WD is used for bigger cars and the according to me the difference come if we are talking about 6x6 being 4WD or AWD which means AWD is be equal to 6WD for a 6 wheeler but 4WD would mean that only 4 of its 6 wheels will drive kinda tricky to understand
Okkkk dummy zone over here
@@hypergon-5627 Sounds like you're real keen on confusing yourself with words and numbers, bub. Good luck?
@@Dukers2300 wow your reply helped a lot
@@hypergon-5627 Much word. Very wheel. Such number. Wow.
You can have a differential locking system in the both, on AWD and 4WD, it doesn't matter if is electronic, mechanic or pneumatic
All-wheel drive, or AWD, refers to a system where all four wheels can gain traction independently of each other. The difference between AWD and 4WD is that AWD is typically always on while you can toggle between having 4WD on and off.
Yeah that's right and it all depends on what vehicle there's so many modern ones utilizing it now that people try to describe their own personal. I like to look back at the original setup like an old Land Rovers with no traction control we're basically there's an open differential in the transfer case allowing front and rear drive shafts to spin at different rates which is great for driving down the street or wet road but without traction control it pretty much becomes pointless pretty quick if you don't lock that transfer case differential into standard four-wheel drive axle lockers
My Lexus GX470 is always on full time 4WD
With a dual speed manual transfer case and lockable center differential.
I got a Jeep wrangler from 01 and it's never failed me on a few feet of snow ever. Honestly it comes down to knowing how to drive and how the car handles in the snow.
I was expecting an actual engineering explanation. You talked for 9 minutes about hardly anything.
Exactly
Great explanation. I wish you would have covered stopping ability in snow or ice. Nothing stops well in either. So if you have either don't suddenly grow some big ones and think that you can go forward with little difficulty and not get into trouble.
ikr...a good sedan with snow tires is better than a 4x4 truck with bad tires
A Jeep XJ was shown to stop faster on ice in 4WD/AWD than when in 2WD.
Try AWD, with traction control, ABS, and snow tires. You'll out brake most "mud trucks". Had both, staying with AWD.
@@chriss377 mud tires are actually not great for snow. Also.... any 4wd vehicle will also have TCS and ABS.... That is like saying you like your AWD because it has an airbag. That stuff is standard bro.....
@@davedunks4647 I have a first gen Touareg with locking center and rear diffs. It's the best of both worlds. I have Blizzaks for winter. The Quattro system in my SUV still outperforms many newer cars and trucks. Most vehicles spend their whole life on the road where AWD really shines. You get more control at speed in a corner, the rain, the snow, and the ice. You have that extra grip ALL the time. Many new, FWD based AWD vehicles disengage the AWD above 25-35mph effectively giving up one the best parts of having AWD in an effort to save fuel. 4WD gives that up ALL of the time unless conditions are slick enough to stay in 4wd. The Touareg is really an AWD/4WD hybrid, all the benefits of both, no real downside except a small hit to fuel usage. Snow, keep going, getting deeper, lock the center diff, really deep lock the rear. Some rare ones also had locking fronts. Really hard to beat the only thing I would add is a 2wd option for long trips on dry roads to save fuel. I've owned everything from V8 muscle cars, a Porsche 911 rwd, lifted and not lifted trucks and Jeeps. None of them compare in all around performance to the Touareg/Cayenne/Q7 platform in my opinion. And my AWD does have airbags, in the suspension! Giving me something like 8 inches of range in ride height. The Touareg didn't take off in the US because at over 50k in 2004 it was more than most would spend on a VW, despite being the same running gear and suspension as the Porsche Cayenne and Audi Q7. And you could get this beast with a V10 TDI that will drag a Duramax in a tug of war.
I have a 2015 GMC Canyon All Terrain. I love it! It can be changed from RWD to AWD to 4WD and 4WD Low by turning a knob. I mostly use RWD but when it’s raining or light snow I use AWD, deeper snow 4WD and with lowered tire pressure on the beaches of NC I use 4WD. I have never had a problem.
Maybe in a future video, you can describe the difference between symmetrical AWD and conventional AWD. Thanks great video!!
That's actually pretty easy, although there's 2 meanings used for those, because marketing. A true symmetrical AWD system is physically symmetrical, in the sense that the driven axles at each end are the same length. This passively favors an even torque delivery between all the wheels. If you've ever driven a FWD (front wheel drive) with unequal length axles, you'll know what 'torque steer' is. That same passive bias created by the difference in axle lengths can cause one end of an AWD vehicle to accept or resist the application of torque. Most of the 'conventional' systems you see use a transversely mounted FWD vehicle as a basis, which may or may not have unequal length axles up front, and even if the front axles are the same length, they are usually shorter than those in the rear. Another factor in mechanical resistance to torque distribution is the 90 degree turn power has to make to get from the transaxle to the rear of the vehicle, which like the unequal axles, creates a passive torque bias. What that adds up to is that a lot of those 'conventional' AWD systems with the transverse drivetrain up front only deliver ~25% of the torque to the rear. That's enough to help with low traction a great deal, but not enough to seriously help with low traction due to loose surfaces (as opposed to hard surfaces with low friction, like wet or icy roads).
I still didn’t learn anything today
My cousin has a 2014 Acura MDX SH-AWD, the best AWD system I've ever experienced in any condition. Never ending grip, never stuck.
Ideal, that mic is QUALITY
You're misleading a lot of lay people with this video.
Lay?
A lay person is your average joe, ie not a car expert
@@neilparikh8041 ah okay, thanks
Depends on the course .
Most all wheel drive vehicles put 70% of the power to the rear and 30 Percent to the front. It's the same thing when you put lockers on your vehicle you do not have your lockers engaged when you are on tar. It's only for dirt. Or snow.
my stinger twin turbo comes 60-40 and most awd are 60/40 i like 80 rear and 20 front the best
Nissan is 100% rear till slilpage then transfers up to 50%
You need front and rear driver actuated lockers to get anywhere. The only vehicle that comes with this is the Jeep Rubicon and I believe the new Bronco. Any open differential sucks!
I agree but at the same time you can buy lockers for just about anything.
Never heard of a Detroit TruTrac? The idea of NEEDING driver-actuated lockers is hilarious. Lockers and hubs haven’t been manually actuated in like 30 years lol
And the G wagon.
G Wagen
Ram power wagon. Ram TRX. GmC AT4X. Chevy ZR2. Ford raptor. Etc......
I had a 4 wd Ram 1500 bighorn and my wife had an AWD Sub forester. The Forester is a beast in the snow. Much better then my Dodge with the exception of when needing clearance like unplowed roads.
Toyota’s full time 4wd acts like awd but has 4low
Center diff lock makes it 4wd.
SUBARU OUTBACK IS THE KING OF THE ROAD / ESPECIALLY IN BLIZZARD 🌨️ ROAD ❄️
We had a bad snow/ice storm and I had to pick up my wife from work. I remember driving past a Subaru Outback that couldn't make it up the hill and thinking how surprised I was that it was among many that couldn't make it but my Yukon in 4 Low cruised right up it. When I had to go to Saudi Arabia to work for the winter, my wife drove my Yukon during the Nebraska snowstorms and she told me she never missed a beat once since I taught her the difference between 4 High and 4 Low. I would have pulled you up the hill but I didn't have a rope.
if theres less than 3 inches of snow, your lesbaru has a chance
@@danweekliesorama9995 🤣
I drive a symmetrical awd and it’s beautiful, I drive through puddles with speed and notice how the car gives power to the wheel that would usually slip. Never drove 4wd so I can’t compare
Don't bother.
AWD is superior on public roads.
I’ve been deceived by my Jeep. It’s full of Fiat parts.
I’ve lived 19 total winter seasons in North Dakota, Colorado, and Vermont. I’ve primarily driven FWD vehicles and have NEVER used winter tires. I’ve never had any issues. You just keep alert and drive to the conditions.
FWD is going retry forgiving in rough conditions, look at rally racing for example FWD is much preferred over RWD. They’re hot as good as 4WD but they still pretty good.
I so confused, i can’t even sleep :)