Thanks for the great video Mike! My buddies are scared to death of working on their 911's. I've looked at it as a challenge and being able to know how to fix it if it breaks down. My old 911S was fun to wrench on but my 996 is a trip! Thanks for your great videos to keep the costs down! Keep them coming👍
Done! Getting the reservoir slotted into the bracket was a MPITA! But, it's all good. Now I just need to find the torque specs for the engine bolts and refill.🎉
Do you know if lowering the engine on a 4C (AWD) car would be a problem without disconnecting the front drive shaft at the transmission? The reason I ask is that when you lower the engine, you are also lowering the transmission. On an AWD car you have a guibo and a driveshaft coming off the transmission, so you can put a lot of load on the driveshaft and where it connects to the transmission. Curious if someone knows if that can be an issue.
Thanks for the video! Just want to note that I just did this job (03 C2 coupe) and I had to remove the black mounting bracket to get the tank out (There's 2 bolts).. there was no way I was getting the tank out without dropping that bracket. Getting the bracket out with the tank in the way is ninja work but can be done. Putting the bracket back in place after the tank was inside was a challenge but if you push the coolant tank ALL the way back in the engine bay you will get just enough room to maneuver the bracket. Put teflon tape on the mounting bracket bolt heads to keep a firm grip on the bolt with your socket before you try to put the bolts back in or you will probably keep dropping them (They mount from the bottom-side). Job was a 5/5 on the PITA scale. Would not recommend DIY to the feint hearted. I went with a 'uro parts' tank.. does not fit the mounting bracket properly and needed a bunch of modification to make the mounting tabs slide properly. Go for OEM here for a trouble free fit. Good luck, you'll need it!
Ty for the tip, I was able to remove the fuel rail cap (I believe that’s what it’s called) with an 18 and 19 mm wrench and sneaked it out without removing the bracket. Went with an oem tank as you recommended thanks!
@@7h0m4s Yes the fuel rail cap was what I was getting caught up on too. I was afraid to remove it so did the bracket instead. Good to know if I need to do this again, that's way easier than messing with the bracket!
The only problem with this video is the price of the Tank Kit is about $500 more on FCP Euro's website than in the video. I had to buy one last weekend for my 99.
That seams to be a non OEM expansion tank you installed. OEM ones use the blue cap and the quality is much better. Also mk1 996 OEM tanks are more expensive usually.
Hey yo Mikey, give us a kiss!!! You’re a legend. Love your videos and you’re helping me restore my dads 996. Ps that’s a Goonies reference, I’m not mental!
My 40 AE 996 just had a low coolant alarm and also temp gauge was flashing even though temp wasnt overly high. I rarely drive this car. I found a couple wet spots on driveway that were not oil.
Ok, just got the reservoir out!!! I had to Dremel out the lower plastic pipe on the reservoir. That was the only way it was coming out. That's after disconnecting the fuel rails and tucking away hoses in the area. Now, to get the new one in, with the lower pipe sticking out.
I really like your videos. They are so informative. BIG QUESTION coming your way. When are you going to show us a COMPLETE engine rebuild? I know you would be good at explaining all the details. Come on!! You know you can do it.
Hi Shane, usually small home air compressors will work just fine, so long as it can operate at a minimum of 90psi. A 20gallon should be sufficient enough.
@@fcpeuro thank you very much, just another reason I love your channel, I can always get a speedy and informed opinion (much better than the service i get at my local Auto shop)
Hey the video shows that at first you started reinstalling it with the tank's two black knobs on the LEFT, but during the speeded-up part you turned it the OTHER WAY! That's very important; you must turn it to the right. I'm going to go try again on mine. Back in a minute. (Three hours later) It's in. HOW I got it in, I have no idea. I had the engine lowered as far as possible, and I'd actually disconnected the two hoses leading to the fuel rail to get it out, but even with that extra room, it was really difficult. I took it out to do the AOS, incidentally. I DON'T recommend it.
Kudos to you Mike! As always, very precise and detailed, thanks!!! Quick question: what is your experience with changing the type of coolant in these systems? In this case the car had green and the Porsche coolant is pink. I had heard that they are incompatible... any thoughts?
Hi Javier! I would suggest flushing out the system entirely and refilling it with Porsche-approved coolant. If you remove the front splash shields you have access to the coolant pipes that lead to the rads and can also drain from there if you want to be extra sure all the old coolant is out, just be sure to get replacement o-rings for the two pipes. I had to do that on this car and used compressed air via the expansion tank to get all the old green coolant out.
Aside from the glaring issue 996's in general are reliable stout cars. We have loved having this one in the shop the last few months, its a great bang for the buck.
After my engine blew at 58K I have 170K on the new engine and still seems like a new engine. Also, I have a stage 1 chip update for performance since I installed new engine and it is definitely worth it.
Michael Hidalgo rules! Love this guy, well organized, structured approach--cannot wait for him to do the AOS!
Couldn’t agree more. I just gained all the confidence needed to do the expansion tank replacement 😃 AOS would be REALLY cool to see!
Thanks for the great video Mike! My buddies are scared to death of working on their 911's. I've looked at it as a challenge and being able to know how to fix it if it breaks down. My old 911S was fun to wrench on but my 996 is a trip! Thanks for your great videos to keep the costs down! Keep them coming👍
Very clear and easy to follow, thanks Mike!!
Very happy with this series on the 996. Spark plug change next?
Awesome info. Great job!
Great tutorial, like being in shop class! Very clear instructions and good filming Thank you, I'm inspired to do this now.
Done! Getting the reservoir slotted into the bracket was a MPITA! But, it's all good. Now I just need to find the torque specs for the engine bolts and refill.🎉
Do you know if lowering the engine on a 4C (AWD) car would be a problem without disconnecting the front drive shaft at the transmission? The reason I ask is that when you lower the engine, you are also lowering the transmission. On an AWD car you have a guibo and a driveshaft coming off the transmission, so you can put a lot of load on the driveshaft and where it connects to the transmission. Curious if someone knows if that can be an issue.
Nice 911!!
Thanks for the video! Just want to note that I just did this job (03 C2 coupe) and I had to remove the black mounting bracket to get the tank out (There's 2 bolts).. there was no way I was getting the tank out without dropping that bracket. Getting the bracket out with the tank in the way is ninja work but can be done. Putting the bracket back in place after the tank was inside was a challenge but if you push the coolant tank ALL the way back in the engine bay you will get just enough room to maneuver the bracket. Put teflon tape on the mounting bracket bolt heads to keep a firm grip on the bolt with your socket before you try to put the bolts back in or you will probably keep dropping them (They mount from the bottom-side). Job was a 5/5 on the PITA scale. Would not recommend DIY to the feint hearted.
I went with a 'uro parts' tank.. does not fit the mounting bracket properly and needed a bunch of modification to make the mounting tabs slide properly. Go for OEM here for a trouble free fit. Good luck, you'll need it!
Ty for the tip, I was able to remove the fuel rail cap (I believe that’s what it’s called) with an 18 and 19 mm wrench and sneaked it out without removing the bracket. Went with an oem tank as you recommended thanks!
@@7h0m4s Yes the fuel rail cap was what I was getting caught up on too. I was afraid to remove it so did the bracket instead. Good to know if I need to do this again, that's way easier than messing with the bracket!
The only problem with this video is the price of the Tank Kit is about $500 more on FCP Euro's website than in the video. I had to buy one last weekend for my 99.
Have you got a video for a coolant temperature sensor swap?
That seams to be a non OEM expansion tank you installed. OEM ones use the blue cap and the quality is much better. Also mk1 996 OEM tanks are more expensive usually.
Hey yo Mikey, give us a kiss!!!
You’re a legend. Love your videos and you’re helping me restore my dads 996.
Ps that’s a Goonies reference, I’m not mental!
😘😘
Great video....thanks!
My 40 AE 996 just had a low coolant alarm and also temp gauge was flashing even though temp wasnt overly high. I rarely drive this car. I found a couple wet spots on driveway that were not oil.
Ok, just got the reservoir out!!! I had to Dremel out the lower plastic pipe on the reservoir. That was the only way it was coming out. That's after disconnecting the fuel rails and tucking away hoses in the area. Now, to get the new one in, with the lower pipe sticking out.
Unbolt the engine mount and lower it a little bit without having to do all that
Your oil fill cap is different at install. Hmmm?
I really like your videos. They are so informative. BIG QUESTION coming your way. When are you going to show us a COMPLETE engine rebuild? I know you would be good at explaining all the details. Come on!! You know you can do it.
That all depends on when Mike blows up his 911! (hopefully no time soon)
Do u have to drop engine at all. Little nervous doing so
What size air compressor do I need to operate the airlift Bleeder tool? BTW I love your videos, please keep them coming
Hi Shane, usually small home air compressors will work just fine, so long as it can operate at a minimum of 90psi. A 20gallon should be sufficient enough.
@@fcpeuro thank you very much, just another reason I love your channel, I can always get a speedy and informed opinion (much better than the service i get at my local Auto shop)
Hey the video shows that at first you started reinstalling it with the tank's two black knobs on the LEFT, but during the speeded-up part you turned it the OTHER WAY! That's very important; you must turn it to the right. I'm going to go try again on mine. Back in a minute. (Three hours later) It's in. HOW I got it in, I have no idea. I had the engine lowered as far as possible, and I'd actually disconnected the two hoses leading to the fuel rail to get it out, but even with that extra room, it was really difficult. I took it out to do the AOS, incidentally. I DON'T recommend it.
Christopher, it is for sure a pain😓
I am in the middle of this job and the engine drops or tilts to the right but doesn’t drop where it’s needed any insight as to why anyone Cheers
Yeah, any help here???
Kudos to you Mike! As always, very precise and detailed, thanks!!! Quick question: what is your experience with changing the type of coolant in these systems? In this case the car had green and the Porsche coolant is pink. I had heard that they are incompatible... any thoughts?
Hi Javier! I would suggest flushing out the system entirely and refilling it with Porsche-approved coolant. If you remove the front splash shields you have access to the coolant pipes that lead to the rads and can also drain from there if you want to be extra sure all the old coolant is out, just be sure to get replacement o-rings for the two pipes. I had to do that on this car and used compressed air via the expansion tank to get all the old green coolant out.
@@fcpeuro Awesome! I really appreciate the insight!
And lowering the engine as far as it would go.
How reliable is this car besides the IMS bearing?
Aside from the glaring issue 996's in general are reliable stout cars. We have loved having this one in the shop the last few months, its a great bang for the buck.
After my engine blew at 58K I have 170K on the new engine and still seems like a new engine. Also, I have a stage 1 chip update for performance since I installed new engine and it is definitely worth it.
Where’s the 850 wagon