!!! Hey Everyone !!! Here is yet another example of SPAM !!! This guy is masquerading as a woodworker when all he really wants to do is sell you Ted's Plans. NEVER BUY TED'S PLANS - the are ripped-off or stolen from other sources, then people like this have the gall to steal our videos and content and claim it as their own. There are thousands of great free plans to be found all over the internet. These people come to our popular video to try and con our viewers - don't let them !!!!
If you put the factory straight edge on top, then slide the saw along with the plate against this edge while cutting a new edge on the bottom board, you don't need to measure your cuts. Just place the cut edge of your guide right on the line you want to cut.
Hi Zack, yup you are right, I am always concerned about dirt dulling my jointer and planer knives. I know the wood looks dirty, but it is mainly the oxidation of the tanin in the sawdust that is making it look worse than it is, but still I will often wire brush the raw boards before joining and planing. Thanks for commenting on this important topic on dressing lumber :) Colin
Hi Dan ... I have a hunch you might be right, but I'm not clear on what process you are referring to, but I often find that viewers come up with better ideas and solutions just by watching what is going on, so thanks for taking the time ... I'll go back and see if I can see what your are referring to. Colin
Not much to tell about the Makita, about 15 years old with a 2 inch wide blade is for ripping wood only. It's a real heavy monster. I looked for 3 years for this saw and love it to death. There are a few around, often at pretty good prices. Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us Colin
I don't have the equipment to dress pallet wood the way I would like, so there is no way I would try any of this. Think about the woodworkers who didn't have electricity to power tools, they used arm power, something that I don't have anymore.
fantastic tips.. thankyou very much... i subscribed about a month ago, and have been slowly working my way through your video's :D I am new to woodworking myself, and thoroughly enjoying it, and quickly learning tips and tricks from you.. Im having to start very small, 12ft square shed, bosch sliding mitre saw, a small desktop table saw, variety of clamps, a cheap orbital sander, jigsaw and brad nailer... But already, the small projects i have been making, have been coming out amazingly! thanks to your video's... Thanks very much
I made a home made fence, that hugs my origional fence, but is 3m long(yes 3m...)roughly 10' and if you have enough space for your cupped side to ride that fence without dipping, or waving to and from the fence then you are good to go...that is my advise to the guy that has a garage table saw and not much else...that is how grandpaw did it, and that is how I do it...and it does work...so long as you do not put too much pressure on the stock pushing toward the fence, turning the bow into a cup...anyway...once one side is done(bow side is cut first) just flip in over and cut the cup off...ready for a crosscut or more.
Good point, thanks for mentioning this, Yes I have a 6' jointer but a 16 planer so, yes with a bit of work the planer can be used for wider boards by shimming, and also by gluing "skid boards" to the edge of the board being planed. I must admit I have not done this yet, but good reminder. Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us Colin
Ha hah hah ha ha hah ha ha ha ha hah hah hah hah hah ... Ha ha hah ha hah ha ha ha ha .... Dude .... don't sugar-coat it, tell us exactly how you feel. Ha ha ha .... thanks for making our day !!!!!!
I agree. If you do it the other way, riding the saw on the wood itself, as in this video, then the saw, and, thus, the squareness of your first cut is at the mercy of how straight the face of the board the saw is riding on is. A very wobbly face will in turn cause the saw to follow the wobbles and possibly not give a straight 90 edge all the way down the length of the cut.
Yup, have done similar myself ... but very curious about the mesquite. I have never had a chance to work with it. I love the look but very hard to find where I live. Can you tell us what it is like to work with? Thanks for posting, great to have you with us Colin
So you started off with holding a live edge piece, but then went to a rough cut piece of lumber.. I was hoping this video would answer a question I had. I don't see any videos on how to get the first reference edge of a live edge piece of wood that has no straight edges on it. Love all the other videos I have seen of yours, but this one kinda disappointed me.
Thanks for this video Colin. This is the method that I was taught as well. I will admit that the first time I dressed timber I did not have many power tools so my method was borrowed from Roy Underhill. It was oak and so I was able to split it with an axe, then used a drawknife and a jack plane to finish. Now that I have a bandsaw, jointer and thickness planer in my shop, I really do not want to go back to the old ways.
I have watched about 6 or 8 of your videos and fine them to be exceptional in quality and in presentation. I will watch more of them. You do an excellent job with your instruction. Congratulations on doing such fine work.
You said not to use a table saw but your wrong. Every difficult step you used with your circular saw you do on the table saw. Clamp the rough lumber onto a straight and true piece of plywood. Run the straight edge against the fence and cut the crook or crown out of the board with a powerful table saw with at least a 10 inch blade. This method is faster, and saver. It's called making a board straightening jig.
Thanks for commenting Johnny, we know not everyone needs this kind of info but we had many requests for something like this which is why we made it, so your comments are appreciated Colin
I often do a quick pass with a belt sander if wood is dirty or may have ingrained grit before putting it through a machine with sharp cutting edges. It can also show up old nails or other metal as bright spots, which are harder to spot as rust marks. Thanks for the clarity of your explanations.
Hmmm, that's a good idea, thanks for posting this Rod. I am often using urban lumber and you never know what will show up in it, so that's a great tip, helps keep the blades sharper longer too :) Colin
Thank you for this great video! I have a lot rough lumbers lying around and wondering how to mill them for furniture. They’re quite thick about 3 to 4 inches and 14 feet long with 15 inch face. I have a table saw with no splitter, a 6 inch jointer, and 7 1/2 inch circular saw. Your advice is exactly what I’m looking for. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. I have access to hickory and cherry from the family farm all rough cut lumber sitting in the barn. My first pass has not been successful but with your video I think I will have a better go of it. I wish youtube would have been around when I was younger. With a grain of salt there is a ton of information out there now...
scott atwater LOL ... I couldn't agree more about UA-cam being around when we were younger, on the other hand, we probably learned some different things along the way that we might not have otherwise. Thanks for commenting, glad you found this useful :) Colin
HEY EVERYONE - here is yet another example of someone try to con yhou by selling you Ted's Plans. NEVER BUY TED'S PLANS. There are thousands of great, free plans all over the Internet without contributing to these kinds of con artists. We could easily delete this but we leave it up as an example. These people steal our videos and content and claim it as their own don't get ripped off by spending money on stolen plans you will never see.
hi I called Jim and is from Denmark first let me say thanks for a great program, I kontagter you because I need your help to start my own studio up, but my broblem is that I have no jop so the money is small. so I hope that you or some of your fans can help me with getting a repair shop up and running, I can use all hand tools and the like used but not power tools, since we have 220 volts in Denmark, Denmark Kildevænget 1 8660 skanderborg jim borg I would like to say thank you for taking the time to read this message would not succeed then there is nothing to do about it but something comes out of it, so I want to say thank you to my and my family's behalf. Sincerely, Jim borg
Jim Borg Good luck with starting up your shop Jim, my suggestion to you would be to connect with a woodworking guild locally, they will probably be of more help to you than anyone ... hope it works out for you :)
it is a very strait grained stable wood. extremely hard but surprisingly easy to work with. here in the palm springs area it is fairly common I just wish it grew bigger 12" two 14" is about the largest. I here Texas mesquite grows larger but has less contrast to it. P.M. me your address and I'll send you a chunk
really appreciate the explanation, sir. i am wondering if using 8-1/4" circular saw could speed up the cutting process(less pass), meanwhile could using circular saw to rip hardwood lumber(8/4 or 12/4) lead to some dangerous kick back?
I was with you up until you said cut to length. At first I did not get it, but obviously you just cut off both end square to one of the finished sides.
Hi Will, yes, I believe that is correct. To be honest, this is an older video which is slated to re-do in HD and a few changes, but basically the same.
Hi, Great video. Thank for showing those of us with the most basic of tools how we can process rough sawn lumber. I too, have only got a beginner size 6" joiner, a have exact table saw you have. Though we can't process any meaningful amount of wood with these little beginner tools, we can experience what the master craftsmen go through, albeit at a much smaller scale. Keep up the great videos, and thank you again, there simply is not enough beginner woodworker video's out there, and you are perhaps the only beginner that I know of giving back like you do.
HI , Great video. I just have a question.@6.38 mark of the video you mention that setting the straight edge at 2 1/4 inches. I am just curious since none of the edges are square where do you take your measurements to ensure you get a straight cut and not a wedge ?.
Hi Steve, yes you are right, great question, you basically need eye-ball that setting, you may get slight wedge but normally I would think it would be pretty straight, and as you go along you will eventually cut any wedging off and get a perfectly parallel board on your table saw.
Thanks for the reply. This squaring up wood has been driving me nuts. I have a Jointer but just cannot seem to get the hang of it. I have an older table saw and I have been thinking of getting a tracksaw for long rips and trying to square wood. Do you have any opinions on tracksaws ?
steve mcelligott There are a few track saws on the market, I do not own one and have only tried the DeWalt, which was fine. You know that you can make a track saw, of sorts just by using you circular saw, and they work quite well, the only problem with them is they do no have the depth of cut that a true tracksaw has, so if you are working with 2" lumber, it could be slightly short. I don't think I have done a video on this, probably a good idea for me to show how to do this.
I have an 8' by 1/8" hard pan jig with an attached fence that has various places to attach modified bar clamps. I always plane the lumber flat on both sides then clamp it to the jig and run the jig through the table saw with the jig fence against the saw fence. After the first pass I remove it from the jig, flip it over, and square up the remaining side.
You must be talking about American Woodshop with Scott Phillips. BY FAR the worst woodworking show ever aired on PBS or cable. He does what you describe all the time.
lol ... actually no I'm not, I have seen his show a few of times, a number of years ago. I think it was when he had just moved into that a new house by a lake? I guess his shows are probably on the Internet somewhere, but he's not on any TV channels we get so I guess I am missing out. I will have to see if I can find him through the PBS channel. Thanks for commenting, now you've got me curious :)
Couldn't tou do the same thing on the tablesaw by clamping your lumber to a sled with a straight edge that you run along the tablesaw fence. I do like the simplicity of your approach. Thanks for posting
question: I have a plank of birch which is mildly warped both lengthways and across the grain (like a twist in the plank). I was raised on the same adage to joint one side and then joint its adjacent before the table saw, but i just can't get ride of the bow and i think its because the wood is warped both in the x and y axis. Am not pressing down on the work as I pass it to cheat out the bow, and understand well the jointers purpose, but id rather not blame my tools when something im doing could be wrong. Whats the best way to address this issue?
Paul Heinrichs These are tough ones to work with. You didn't mention how thick the plank is, or what thickness you want to bring it down to ... not the size so here goes with some guess work. If the plank is thin and too much stock is going to be jointed or planed off, you don't have much choice except to cut it with bandsaw, circ saw or even table saw with a straight jig set-up ... do your jointing and planing and re-glue. If you have enough wood to work with you could set up a jointing jig for your planer (assuming you have one) basically all this jig does is, you lay you birch on it, then shim the holes between the birch and the jig so the planer does not flatten the wood as it goes through. This way you will get one face that is flat and you can work from that. Hope this answers your question ... ask more if you need Colin
akil last You can do all sides on the jointer but if you need to have any of the side parallel to one another, you need a planer to do that, otherwise you can end up with a slightly wedge shaped board.
akil last The jointer will only make a surface flat, and it can also help you make any 2 adjoining sides 90 degrees but it still cannot assure that 2 opposite sides are parallel.
If you are going to buy a good blade be careful that it doesn't touch steel as the carbide is sharp, but also fragile. You held the Bosch blade and the Freud Diablo together which can damage the carbide teeth. Even if the blades are both all steel, it is a good practice to not have one touch another, or come in contact with a saw surface.
So if I decide to do a video comparing blades I shouldn't let them touch each other. If I ever find myself in that circumstance I'll try to remember that. 🙄
Good video Only problem is, sometimes when you cut a strip from a board the tension built up releases and your strip can end up warped which could cause problems on your jointer.
FLPhotoCatcher Yes it can be moisture differentials, unless the wood is stable, in which case it is tensions from tree growth. For example we seldom use tree branches because the tensions the built into them as they grow can be tremendous.
I agree with you, unfortunately we tried doing that in Canada, and now we have such a botched system it's a total mess. Some stuff is Imperial other is Metric. Purchase some bulk cheese and it's kilos, but go buy bulk nails and they are in pounds. All wood is now back to feet and inches but buy carpet or fabric and it's meters. Ask someone how tall they are and they will tell you in feet and inches, then ask them how far to the next town and it's kilometers. Metric is easily the best system but as long as our biggest trading partner is Imperial we'll end up with this crazy mixed system :(
WoodWorkWeb I blush to say it, but we have much of the same in the UK, particularly in temperature. If its cold, we use Celsius and say it is about zero. When it's hot we switch to Fahrenheit and it is about 90.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to post this video which is very nicely done. My I ask a couple of stupid questions? After you have 2 edges "true" from the jointer, why not do the other 2 sides on the jointer as well? That is, what is the advantage of using the planer at that stage? Also, if you plan to run the wood through the planer, why not just joint one side and plane 3 sides? That is, what is the advantage of having 2 true adjacent sides when on one of those 2 sides doesn't have contact with the blades or flat surface of the planer? I'm sorry if these questions are elementary, I'm just trying to understand the process. Thank you. Gary
Gary Sadler Good questions Gary ... Answer 1 - we plane the opposite side of the jointed edges to make the boards parallel, at least the face side, the edges are made parallel often on the table saw with the saw blade cutting the non-jointed edge. Answer 2 - we normally joint the face side first, then one of th edges, that gives us an edge that is now 90 degrees to the face, this cannot be done on a planer. In the end we normally want to end up with a board that is flat on all sides and all sides are parallel to one another. The jointer gives us the first 2 sides, the table saw and the planer finish off the cuts. Hope I am clear enough on this ask more if you need
I had the same question, but I'm still stumped. You joint one side (it's flat), then you rotate the piece 90 degrees counter-clockwise, place the jointed side against the fence and joint the second. Since the fence is a 90 degree angle, If you rotate the piece another 90 degrees counter-clockwise and place the second jointed (flat) side against the fence, would not that produce third flat side that is also 90 degrees to the fence and therefore parallel to the first jointed side since everything is working off the 90 degree fence? And then once that's done, we have three, flat, 90 degree angles. So wouldn't a final counter-clockwise rotation of the piece put that third flat side against the fence, making the final jointed side parallel to the second, and then you have a four-sided, flat, all 90 degree angled piece? What am I missing? Thanks.
I still don't understand why all 4 sides couldn't be done on a jointer? Is it just a time savings process to take it to the table saw and planer? The explanation by WWW seemed to just restate the steps taken in the video, not an explanation of why you can't joint all 4 sides to get them parallel? Thanks, & great videos BTW!
Wouldn't it be better, Mark where it's out, all 4 sides, with a chalk line or straight edge, cut the bad off only, so you have a total straight board to work with? Not sure how you were able to calculate the size board you need, before taking the unknown loss out. Unless you didn't care.
Hello, thanks for all your great video. I am new at this wood works. My question is, what if you just put wet wood in the huge oven to slow dry your woods, would it damage your woods. Thank you for your help.
Mai Dayjeen No, it won't damage the wood, but if it dries too quickly some woods can crack and warp. If the heat is low, it is probably a good way to dry wood.
Thank you very much. I am in Thailand and the huge oven I was talking about is use for drying rubber sheets, it is low heat and it continue heating 24/7. I am so new at wood work and all I want to do is making furnitures and have no idea about woods, but I am learn.Thank you for writing back and I do really appreciated. Have a great day.
Kind of narcissistic to make yourself the benchmark that decides if a video is too complicated or "poor". Maybe say, "if you are like me, on the low end of the intellectual curve, this is a poor choice of videos for you". That way you don't come across as an asshole that is bashing this man's excellent hard work.
One of the few that doesn't leave the volume at 10 while sawing! New subscriber here based on that!
I just milled down some 12" round mesquite on my 1/2 horse delta bandsaw. To do this I made a sled and screwed the log to it. It worked beautifully
Man, where do you live?! That forest around your shop is beautiful.
!!! Hey Everyone !!!
Here is yet another example of SPAM !!! This guy is masquerading as a woodworker when all he really wants to do is sell you Ted's Plans.
NEVER BUY TED'S PLANS - the are ripped-off or stolen from other sources, then people like this have the gall to steal our videos and content and claim it as their own. There are thousands of great free plans to be found all over the internet. These people come to our popular video to try and con our viewers - don't let them !!!!
Good info. I saw this done buy using a planner dog and shims get one side flat the do the other. this is good if you don't have a jointer
If you put the factory straight edge on top, then slide the saw along with the plate against this edge while cutting a new edge on the bottom board, you don't need to measure your cuts. Just place the cut edge of your guide right on the line you want to cut.
The wood you are using looks pretty dirty. Are you worried about the dirt dulling your jointer knives?
Do you plane an entire board if it is 'like a propellor', or do you cut it in half/quarters so you will plane less down? tks
Hi Zack, yup you are right, I am always concerned about dirt dulling my jointer and planer knives. I know the wood looks dirty, but it is mainly the oxidation of the tanin in the sawdust that is making it look worse than it is, but still I will often wire brush the raw boards before joining and planing.
Thanks for commenting on this important topic on dressing lumber :)
Colin
This is true ... that's what I love about woodworking, there are often many ways of accomplishing the same thing. Thanks for posting this :)
Colin
Hi Dan ... I have a hunch you might be right, but I'm not clear on what process you are referring to, but I often find that viewers come up with better ideas and solutions just by watching what is going on, so thanks for taking the time ... I'll go back and see if I can see what your are referring to.
Colin
Not much to tell about the Makita, about 15 years old with a 2 inch wide blade is for ripping wood only. It's a real heavy monster. I looked for 3 years for this saw and love it to death. There are a few around, often at pretty good prices. Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us
Colin
I don't have the equipment to dress pallet wood the way I would like, so there is no way I would try any of this. Think about the woodworkers who didn't have electricity to power tools, they used arm power, something that I don't have anymore.
Nice use of skills to get usable lumber. Thanks.
Vincent Licitra Thanks VIncent for your comments
fantastic tips.. thankyou very much... i subscribed about a month ago, and have been slowly working my way through your video's :D
I am new to woodworking myself, and thoroughly enjoying it, and quickly learning tips and tricks from you..
Im having to start very small, 12ft square shed, bosch sliding mitre saw, a small desktop table saw, variety of clamps, a cheap orbital sander, jigsaw and brad nailer... But already, the small projects i have been making, have been coming out amazingly!
thanks to your video's...
Thanks very much
I made a home made fence, that hugs my origional fence, but is 3m long(yes 3m...)roughly 10' and if you have enough space for your cupped side to ride that fence without dipping, or waving to and from the fence then you are good to go...that is my advise to the guy that has a garage table saw and not much else...that is how grandpaw did it, and that is how I do it...and it does work...so long as you do not put too much pressure on the stock pushing toward the fence, turning the bow into a cup...anyway...once one side is done(bow side is cut first) just flip in over and cut the cup off...ready for a crosscut or more.
Good point, thanks for mentioning this, Yes I have a 6' jointer but a 16 planer so, yes with a bit of work the planer can be used for wider boards by shimming, and also by gluing "skid boards" to the edge of the board being planed. I must admit I have not done this yet, but good reminder. Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us
Colin
Great sound advise. Some really good tips.
Ha hah hah ha ha hah ha ha ha ha hah hah hah hah hah ...
Ha ha hah ha hah ha ha ha ha .... Dude .... don't sugar-coat it, tell us exactly how you feel.
Ha ha ha .... thanks for making our day !!!!!!
I noticed you did not use the jig correctly with your cirular saw. Should you not have ridden the jig so that the blade just hangs over the jig?
I agree. If you do it the other way, riding the saw on the wood itself, as in this video, then the saw, and, thus, the squareness of your first cut is at the mercy of how straight the face of the board the saw is riding on is. A very wobbly face will in turn cause the saw to follow the wobbles and possibly not give a straight 90 edge all the way down the length of the cut.
Yup, have done similar myself ... but very curious about the mesquite. I have never had a chance to work with it. I love the look but very hard to find where I live. Can you tell us what it is like to work with?
Thanks for posting, great to have you with us
Colin
So you started off with holding a live edge piece, but then went to a rough cut piece of lumber..
I was hoping this video would answer a question I had. I don't see any videos on how to get the first reference edge of a live edge piece of wood that has no straight edges on it. Love all the other videos I have seen of yours, but this one kinda disappointed me.
Thanks for this video Colin. This is the method that I was taught as well. I will admit that the first time I dressed timber I did not have many power tools so my method was borrowed from Roy Underhill. It was oak and so I was able to split it with an axe, then used a drawknife and a jack plane to finish.
Now that I have a bandsaw, jointer and thickness planer in my shop, I really do not want to go back to the old ways.
I have watched about 6 or 8 of your videos and fine them to be exceptional in quality and in presentation. I will watch more of them. You do an excellent job with your instruction. Congratulations on doing such fine work.
Thank you for the kind word Robert ... appreciate you taking the time
If you put the factory straight edge on top
You said not to use a table saw but your wrong. Every difficult step you used with your circular saw you do on the table saw. Clamp the rough lumber onto a straight and true piece of plywood. Run the straight edge against the fence and cut the crook or crown out of the board with a powerful table saw with at least a 10 inch blade. This method is faster, and saver. It's called making a board straightening jig.
good stuff
Thanks for commenting Johnny, we know not everyone needs this kind of info but we had many requests for something like this which is why we made it, so your comments are appreciated
Colin
I often do a quick pass with a belt sander if wood is dirty or may have ingrained grit before putting it through a machine with sharp cutting edges. It can also show up old nails or other metal as bright spots, which are harder to spot as rust marks. Thanks for the clarity of your explanations.
Hmmm, that's a good idea, thanks for posting this Rod. I am often using urban lumber and you never know what will show up in it, so that's a great tip, helps keep the blades sharper longer too :)
Colin
Thank you for this great video! I have a lot rough lumbers lying around and wondering how to mill them for furniture. They’re quite thick about 3 to 4 inches and 14 feet long with 15 inch face. I have a table saw with no splitter, a 6 inch jointer, and 7 1/2 inch circular saw. Your advice is exactly what I’m looking for. Thank you!
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Thank you for taking the time to do this video. I have access to hickory and cherry from the family farm all rough cut lumber sitting in the barn. My first pass has not been successful but with your video I think I will have a better go of it. I wish youtube would have been around when I was younger. With a grain of salt there is a ton of information out there now...
scott atwater LOL ... I couldn't agree more about UA-cam being around when we were younger, on the other hand, we probably learned some different things along the way that we might not have otherwise. Thanks for commenting, glad you found this useful :)
Colin
Thanks for taking the time to comment, Great to have you with us
Colin
Glad this was useful to you, and thanks for taking the time to comment
Colin
Collin excellent UTube Video Lesson 8/13/2020
if you plan to run a block plane on a piece of wood... invest in a few clamps so it won't slide around .
HEY EVERYONE - here is yet another example of someone try to con yhou by selling you Ted's Plans. NEVER BUY TED'S PLANS. There are thousands of great, free plans all over the Internet without contributing to these kinds of con artists. We could easily delete this but we leave it up as an example. These people steal our videos and content and claim it as their own don't get ripped off by spending money on stolen plans you will never see.
Thanks for the note, we appreciate you commenting, great to have you with us
Colin
Thanks for commenting, we appreciate it when people make the effort, great to have you with us
Colin
hi I called Jim and is from Denmark first let me say thanks for a great program, I kontagter you because I need your help to start my own studio up, but my broblem is that I have no jop so the money is small. so I hope that you or some of your fans can help me with getting a repair shop up and running, I can use all hand tools and the like used but not power tools, since we have 220 volts in Denmark,
Denmark
Kildevænget 1
8660 skanderborg
jim borg
I would like to say thank you for taking the time to read this message would not succeed then there is nothing to do about it but something comes out of it, so I want to say thank you to my and my family's behalf.
Sincerely, Jim borg
Jim Borg Good luck with starting up your shop Jim, my suggestion to you would be to connect with a woodworking guild locally, they will probably be of more help to you than anyone ... hope it works out for you :)
thanks for taking the time to comment Robert
Thanks for the video, and the great details that went in to making this possible.
Very helpful for us beginners, thank you!
it is a very strait grained stable wood. extremely hard but surprisingly easy to work with. here in the palm springs area it is fairly common I just wish it grew bigger 12" two 14" is about the largest. I here Texas mesquite grows larger but has less contrast to it. P.M. me your address and I'll send you a chunk
Why don't you have a solar kiln for drying your wood?
Thanks for commenting ..
Colin
really appreciate the explanation, sir. i am wondering if using 8-1/4" circular saw could speed up the cutting process(less pass), meanwhile could using circular saw to rip hardwood lumber(8/4 or 12/4) lead to some dangerous kick back?
I was with you up until you said cut to length. At first I did not get it, but obviously you just cut off both end square to one of the finished sides.
Hi Will, yes, I believe that is correct. To be honest, this is an older video which is slated to re-do in HD and a few changes, but basically the same.
Hi, Great video. Thank for showing those of us with the most basic of tools how we can process rough sawn lumber. I too, have only got a beginner size 6" joiner, a have exact table saw you have. Though we can't process any meaningful amount of wood with these little beginner tools, we can experience what the master craftsmen go through, albeit at a much smaller scale. Keep up the great videos, and thank you again, there simply is not enough beginner woodworker video's out there, and you are perhaps the only beginner that I know of giving back like you do.
HI , Great video. I just have a question.@6.38 mark of the video you mention that setting the straight edge at 2 1/4 inches. I am just curious since none of the edges are square where do you take your measurements to ensure you get a straight cut and not a wedge ?.
Hi Steve, yes you are right, great question, you basically need eye-ball that setting, you may get slight wedge but normally I would think it would be pretty straight, and as you go along you will eventually cut any wedging off and get a perfectly parallel board on your table saw.
Thanks for the reply. This squaring up wood has been driving me nuts. I have a Jointer but just cannot seem to get the hang of it. I have an older table saw and I have been thinking of getting a tracksaw for long rips and trying to square wood. Do you have any opinions on tracksaws ?
steve mcelligott There are a few track saws on the market, I do not own one and have only tried the DeWalt, which was fine. You know that you can make a track saw, of sorts just by using you circular saw, and they work quite well, the only problem with them is they do no have the depth of cut that a true tracksaw has, so if you are working with 2" lumber, it could be slightly short. I don't think I have done a video on this, probably a good idea for me to show how to do this.
I have an 8' by 1/8" hard pan jig with an attached fence that has various places to attach modified bar clamps. I always plane the lumber flat on both sides then clamp it to the jig and run the jig through the table saw with the jig fence against the saw fence. After the first pass I remove it from the jig, flip it over, and square up the remaining side.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Great job, we found a piece of wood about 70-80 years old, a very dry piece of wood, should it be sealed first before sawing?
You must be talking about American Woodshop with Scott Phillips. BY FAR the worst woodworking show ever aired on PBS or cable. He does what you describe all the time.
lol ... actually no I'm not, I have seen his show a few of times, a number of years ago. I think it was when he had just moved into that a new house by a lake? I guess his shows are probably on the Internet somewhere, but he's not on any TV channels we get so I guess I am missing out. I will have to see if I can find him through the PBS channel. Thanks for commenting, now you've got me curious :)
Couldn't tou do the same thing on the tablesaw by clamping your lumber to a sled with a straight edge that you run along the tablesaw fence.
I do like the simplicity of your approach.
Thanks for posting
Thank you!!! this was exactly the information I was looking for...... splitting a slab for epoxy pour ! Awesome!
Did anyone noticed that the music at the intro is the intro for a song in Halo 1? xD
question: I have a plank of birch which is mildly warped both lengthways and across the grain (like a twist in the plank). I was raised on the same adage to joint one side and then joint its adjacent before the table saw, but i just can't get ride of the bow and i think its because the wood is warped both in the x and y axis. Am not pressing down on the work as I pass it to cheat out the bow, and understand well the jointers purpose, but id rather not blame my tools when something im doing could be wrong. Whats the best way to address this issue?
Paul Heinrichs These are tough ones to work with. You didn't mention how thick the plank is, or what thickness you want to bring it down to ... not the size so here goes with some guess work.
If the plank is thin and too much stock is going to be jointed or planed off, you don't have much choice except to cut it with bandsaw, circ saw or even table saw with a straight jig set-up ... do your jointing and planing and re-glue.
If you have enough wood to work with you could set up a jointing jig for your planer (assuming you have one) basically all this jig does is, you lay you birch on it, then shim the holes between the birch and the jig so the planer does not flatten the wood as it goes through. This way you will get one face that is flat and you can work from that.
Hope this answers your question ... ask more if you need
Colin
why you cant do all 4 side on the jointer ?
akil last You can do all sides on the jointer but if you need to have any of the side parallel to one another, you need a planer to do that, otherwise you can end up with a slightly wedge shaped board.
O so the jointer is not gonna do the 4 side accurate
akil last The jointer will only make a surface flat, and it can also help you make any 2 adjoining sides 90 degrees but it still cannot assure that 2 opposite sides are parallel.
a good lesson. Tell me more about your 16" Makita saw, from 4:32.
Anybody else notice the first few seconds of the halo theme in the intro?
If you are going to buy a good blade be careful that it doesn't touch steel as the carbide is sharp, but also fragile. You held the Bosch blade and the Freud Diablo together which can damage the carbide teeth. Even if the blades are both all steel, it is a good practice to not have one touch another, or come in contact with a saw surface.
So if I decide to do a video comparing blades I shouldn't let them touch each other. If I ever find myself in that circumstance I'll try to remember that. 🙄
Hi! Can you send some pictures of your Makita?
Thanks’~M~ will be following your vids. As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video!
Mike A Drover Thanks for taking the time to comment Mike ..
Good video
Only problem is, sometimes when you cut a strip from a board the tension built up releases and your strip can end up warped which could cause problems on your jointer.
Colin Knecht
It's due to the wood shrinking at different amounts, at different places, when drying.
FLPhotoCatcher Yes it can be moisture differentials, unless the wood is stable, in which case it is tensions from tree growth. For example we seldom use tree branches because the tensions the built into them as they grow can be tremendous.
thanks for the simple video.
why not use a rip guide?
use paddles to push that wood thru the jointer
Are you ready to rock? Yeah!!!! 🎸
Eight quarters! It's like channelling the seventeenth century. More than time to go metric, people.
I agree with you, unfortunately we tried doing that in Canada, and now we have such a botched system it's a total mess. Some stuff is Imperial other is Metric. Purchase some bulk cheese and it's kilos, but go buy bulk nails and they are in pounds. All wood is now back to feet and inches but buy carpet or fabric and it's meters. Ask someone how tall they are and they will tell you in feet and inches, then ask them how far to the next town and it's kilometers. Metric is easily the best system but as long as our biggest trading partner is Imperial we'll end up with this crazy mixed system :(
WoodWorkWeb I blush to say it, but we have much of the same in the UK, particularly in temperature. If its cold, we use Celsius and say it is about zero. When it's hot we switch to Fahrenheit and it is about 90.
Very informative video, thank you. keep em coming!
for a second I thought jeez that cuts fast
TJ Dupuis j
Proof that you can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear!
LOL ... good one Brian, thanks :)
twelve minutes of BS and two minutes of showing
I really needed this info. Thanks
A lot of good information
Works very *well...
NICE
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to post this video which is very nicely done. My I ask a couple of stupid questions? After you have 2 edges "true" from the jointer, why not do the other 2 sides on the jointer as well? That is, what is the advantage of using the planer at that stage? Also, if you plan to run the wood through the planer, why not just joint one side and plane 3 sides? That is, what is the advantage of having 2 true adjacent sides when on one of those 2 sides doesn't have contact with the blades or flat surface of the planer? I'm sorry if these questions are elementary, I'm just trying to understand the process. Thank you. Gary
Gary Sadler Good questions Gary ... Answer 1 - we plane the opposite side of the jointed edges to make the boards parallel, at least the face side, the edges are made parallel often on the table saw with the saw blade cutting the non-jointed edge.
Answer 2 - we normally joint the face side first, then one of th edges, that gives us an edge that is now 90 degrees to the face, this cannot be done on a planer.
In the end we normally want to end up with a board that is flat on all sides and all sides are parallel to one another. The jointer gives us the first 2 sides, the table saw and the planer finish off the cuts.
Hope I am clear enough on this ask more if you need
I had the same question, but I'm still stumped. You joint one side (it's flat), then you rotate the piece 90 degrees counter-clockwise, place the jointed side against the fence and joint the second. Since the fence is a 90 degree angle, If you rotate the piece another 90 degrees counter-clockwise and place the second jointed (flat) side against the fence, would not that produce third flat side that is also 90 degrees to the fence and therefore parallel to the first jointed side since everything is working off the 90 degree fence? And then once that's done, we have three, flat, 90 degree angles. So wouldn't a final counter-clockwise rotation of the piece put that third flat side against the fence, making the final jointed side parallel to the second, and then you have a four-sided, flat, all 90 degree angled piece? What am I missing? Thanks.
Anytime Damon. Team work, bother.
Gary Sadler
DUH...I just got it! Question retracted.
I still don't understand why all 4 sides couldn't be done on a jointer? Is it just a time savings process to take it to the table saw and planer? The explanation by WWW seemed to just restate the steps taken in the video, not an explanation of why you can't joint all 4 sides to get them parallel? Thanks, & great videos BTW!
its amazing.Thank you man.
Hi Paul ... thanks for taking a moment to comment
Colin
Great video Mr. K
***** Thanks Steven ... great to have you with us
Colin
Wouldn't it be better, Mark where it's out, all 4 sides, with a chalk line or straight edge, cut the bad off only, so you have a total straight board to work with? Not sure how you were able to calculate the size board you need, before taking the unknown loss out. Unless you didn't care.
Hello, thanks for all your great video. I am new at this wood works. My question is, what if you just put wet wood in the huge oven to slow dry your woods, would it damage your woods. Thank you for your help.
Mai Dayjeen No, it won't damage the wood, but if it dries too quickly some woods can crack and warp. If the heat is low, it is probably a good way to dry wood.
Thank you very much. I am in Thailand and the huge oven I was talking about is use for drying rubber sheets, it is low heat and it continue heating 24/7. I am so new at wood work and all I want to do is making furnitures and have no idea about woods, but I am learn.Thank you for writing back and I do really appreciated. Have a great day.
Poor video. I stayed confused on how to square a board.
Kind of narcissistic to make yourself the benchmark that decides if a video is too complicated or "poor".
Maybe say, "if you are like me, on the low end of the intellectual curve, this is a poor choice of videos for you". That way you don't come across as an asshole that is bashing this man's excellent hard work.
Thanks for the suggestion