I am so glad that this video is still available. I watched a few router plane jig videos and each one was more elaborate than what I needed it for. I had glued up some 2x4s for a butcher block extension wing on my table saw. Even though I used every clamp I own, the little slab had a dip on one side and a bump on the other. I needed a simple jig to plane it flat. Your design worked perfectly! I used a 1/2" straight bit and took off just a little at a time, until I had a flat slab. It left a slight wavy pattern, but it sanded smooth with very little effort. Thank you for making this video. I enjoy every one of your videos. All very informative.
Colin, you're the easiest to understand and follow. You make projects less intimidating. Thanks so much, I don't have a planer and as little as I will need one this will do the trick.
Hi Brian, thanks for the note, it is a brilliant idea, I wish I had thought of it but it has been around for quite some time, just not well known. Hopefully now others will see how it works and be able to use it for their projects. Thanks again for commenting Colin
Hi Scotty, yes, even I was impressed how well it worked. Zip over to the article on woodworkweb to check out router bit options. We discovered they are somewhat hard to find. Rockler, Woodcraft and other go-to places had nothing, but there was a good selection at Amazon, which we provide links for in the article because there are pages and pages of router bits at Amazon. Hope this helps, let me know if you need more info :) Colin
Slick jig! I've seen the type that the router fastens to a sled and the whole sled slides on rails over the work, but never a panel with guides and feet on. I've got a gorgeous piece of ash crotch wood that I've wanted to make into a clock for quite some time, but have done nothing but screw it up to this point. Going to make a jig like this and try it out - the other kind I've seen would be too large for my tiny shop. Thanks for making the video.
Thanks for vote of confidence :) ... but I'm pretty happy doing your UA-cam. Sounds like you have some ideas of your own making a version of this, maybe you will share some pics of it with us when you get it done, we'd love to see. Thanks for posting ... Colin
It is a clever jig, but I can't take credit for idea. I was very happy how quick and easy it was to plane down oversized boards. Thanks for taking the time to comment Colin
Outstanding idea, I've been worried about buying a planer, but not I don't need to, just yet. I'll build this jig, with some 3/4" material, but doubled thickness. Thank you, Colin.
Thank you for sharing this video. I can't wait to build my own jig as I can't afford a planer right now and my electric hand planer just frustrates me. Maybe you could post a video on how to use an electric hand planer properly? Cheers.
Hi! Great video. I know it has been up for a while now, but I was wondering what are some other ways to fasten down the piece being worked on? Make it slightly oversized and clamp/screw it down?
I think, of you're planing a heavy piece, you'll just have to worry about horizontal movement, so just screwing a wooden frame, or even just little metal corners, will do. If you're working on something lighter, depending on the surface of your workbench, you could put wide tape on both your bench and the piece, so they'll aline and put a few drops of super glue in-between the "backs" of the tapes. It might even be enough to not clamp it down at all... Have fun and stay safe
Super helpful and informative! Thanks very much for posting! I’ve got a couple slabs that I’ve been staring at looking for inspiration to flatten them so this was exactly what I needed to see! Cheers!
The planing bits used in this video is a 1/2" and I'm not aware of any that are 1/4". You really need a bit bigger bit for this kind of work which means a little bit more powerful router that will take a 1/2" bit.
Can these jigs replace planers and jointers? They seem much more easier and faster than the other 2 tools. I bought a planer and jointer recently and think I'll sell them and get a router to create the same end product.
this jig takes the least amount material to make. great idea! Q: when you fasten the top two tracks, should we mount the beam vertically so that it has less chance to bend in the middle?
Great work, you never cease inspire me. This sled build seems overly complicated. You do not have to cut a big slot out of the middle of a board with a table saw (or a jig saw) to make a slot for the router. You can just use the router to carve the channel (slightly larger than your widest planer bit) out of the board using a temporary guide, then add your stops, and the sides to fit the router base width. Some of the niftiest sleds also have height adjustment, which can bi a great feature. This is the first sled video I've seen that goes with the grain instead of across. Are there any advantages or doesn't it matter?
I hope that you make a lot of money because the videos you produce give us a ton of valuable information. I do have a question though. Using a jig like this I would think that it needs to be perfectly level in order to give the surface you are working on a perfectly level surface. For instance, I want to build a table so it will obviously need to be level. How do I make a jig that will insure that the final surface is level?
Hey awsome vid, Just whas wondering why you didn't turn the router 90° in relation to the jig? Cause what I thought whas you where going to use the flat sides of the router base to slide against the guide-rails. This whay you have a perfect straight routed line,... you also can use (approx. 1" thicker guide rails for stability,... and easier axcess to the handle. Is this true what I'm saying? cause I'm not that certain,... it's just an idea. Let me know what you think? Greets
I have a black and decker work bench I’m going to fit my makita router to it to mill pallet wood with a 2inch milling bit is this safe and will it work?
Hi Fredrik, thanks for taking the time to comment. The bit I used and other similar bits are detailed and even have links for you on woodworkweb, and the article is easy to find. Go to he home page, scroll down and click on page 2, the article is about half way down on second page. Should have all the info you might need right there :) If not, send me an email ... happy to help out Colin
Wow an older video. I'm glad I came across it. Can you tell me what the bits are called and where I could get one? Thanks Colin for another helpful video.
Colin I enjoy your videos and I made a router sled to flatten wood. It did a great job of flattening the wood however the wood had ridges in it when I was through. Please give me some feedback as to what I am probably doing wrong. Thanx
Thanks for sharing the video. Another option would be the plane jig we used to level very large red oak slabs. First we used a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood in which we made into a table about 30" off the floor. We then fastened 2x6's to the 8' sides, make sure you level them. Them we took 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron approx. 5' long, 2 each to go across the 4' table. we also used angle on each end told hold jig together, make sure the jig is far enough apart to easily hold your router. Now in our case the red oak slabs were not at all level, so we got them as close across the slab as we could, and fastened them through the bottom of the table using screws and wedges as needed. I works like a dream and we made many table tops using this jig. Some of the tops we made were over 5' wide so we had to make a larger table and jig, we also put 2 tables together for the longer slabs. The nice part about this method is you can also use the table for sanding, finishing your projects. Good Luck!!
lol ... a few people have commenting on how I say project, I must try and watch that a bit more carefully, thanks for bring a smile to my face. Great to have you with us ... keep up those comments :) Colin
Hi Ahmed, thanks for posting, and to answer your question, to join woodworkweb right now, go to the site and send me an email. I will sign you up manually. Colin
The router bit I used one of the ones that I talked about in the article, even have some links to it and some pics ... check out the article on woodworkweb., the link is in UA-cam Description under the video window
Hi Colin, I was wondering if there is a good way to make the height of the jig adjustable? Right now I'm thinking of driving a bolt in on every corner, but I think that will leave too much room for error... Also, my workbench is very small, so I don't have much room to move the jig over the workpiece... Is there an "easy" jig to make to move the router around over the piece? I'd probably have to make something on which the router can slide, say left and right and that sled on itself needs to slide back to front, right? Do you have something like that? (And a video about it?) Thank you in advance! Greetings from the Netherlands!
Very nice video, thanks for posting it, and it's a great idea. A quick question -- why are you pronouncing the word "project" ("praw-ject") as PRO-ject??? Are you Canadian? I've heard those folks do that.
You're a good teacher, Colin, and this was another good video. Why didn't you use your router to cut the slot in your jig instead of making the difficult plunge cut on your table saw?
Brilliant thanks Colin. I have very limited space and no room for planers etc. This jig will be great. What size is the router bit and shank that you used. I’m trying to extend my wood shed where I work but very limited on room to extend!! I would love a big roomy workshop but hey, not to worry. Thanks again for another great video. Graham🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi Colin, thank you so much for making and sharing this vid. I learned so much. I intend to make a jig similar to this, but I have a question on router bit selection. For this jig, I will be using a Makita RP2301FC. The problem is, in the USA, this model router is a 3-1/4 HP, while in my country the motor is rated at 2100 w, or 2.8 HP. Originally the router bit I wanted to use was an Amana 1-3/4 inch bottom cleaning bit (part #45453), but when I found out that my router won't be as powerful as that of reviewers who used the bit, I got a bit worried. In fact, I got to looking at a smaller version of the bit, the Amana 1-1/2 inch bottom cleaning bit (part #45566). I want to be safe, and I want my work to look good too. However, Amazon is selling the 1-3/4 inch bit slightly cheaper than the 1-1/2 inch. The fact that I would lose about 1/4 inch in capacity, combined with the fact that I would have to pay more for this questionable privilege, is really chafing me. Yes, the loss of capacity is small, and the difference is not even a dollar, but it bugs me. So my question is, do you think that I can safely use the 1-3/4 inch bit, or would it be better to use the 1-1/2 inch bit? Note: I am using tropical hardwoods almost exclusively. Some of them can be really dense. Would really appreciate your input on this one. I'll link the items here (please copy and paste into address bar): Router: amzn.to/1ROb8tw 1-3/4 inch: amzn.to/1OL5xEi 1-1/2 inch: amzn.to/1LzPhoF
Hi Ron, thanks for the note, sorry you were not easily able to find the article on woodworkweb. I have re-edited the text in the description box under this video that has the direct link to that article you are looking for. We are trying to do this with every video, but are still working on it. Thanks again ... let me know if you need more info Colin
Thanks for you post, I'm not sure I am following what you are describing, but what I will say is there are often many different ways to accomplish the same thing so you could very well be correct, and you may even have a better way. Would like to hear more, maybe you could email me at woodworkweb, not much room on these post :)
lol ... not at all James, pretty sure this is the public domain, I would love to claim it as my own, but I have seen this somewhere else in my travels, so I like you took the imitative to share with others as I do ... well done sir! Colin
Filip Jelenkovic that's what I was thinking too. Not sure if typical guides would support a huge bit like that. Usually a guide would not interfere with the bit being plunged up or down (i.e., straight bits) however that would not be the case for this bit. That would make it a dangerous option but I am only guessing don't have much experience with guides.
Good question, the bandsaw was used to get the board cut to rough shape, in this video we are planing a wide board. If the board was narrower, we could have used a jointer, but on wide boards that won't fit on a jointer, planing with a router is another way of getting them flat and with a nice smooth surface finish.
Well, we just have a little Canon Handy Cam ... not sure of the model, but it was one of the more expensive ones, but it does shoot in high def, which is what we use and it does seem to do a pretty good job for us.
Thank you so do you shoot 30 frames per sec. or 25 fps when shooting and In I mode or in P mode like 1080 I or 1080P and when you upload what settings are you using as your video is one of the best I have seen out there! I'm trying to get my videos better and would like to know how you upload and the setting that you use to get such great sharpness....you can email me if you would like at charles.denherder@gmail.com thanks so very much.....
Hi Colin, great video, I'm halfway through making a end gain chopping board which I need to flatten I'm thinking putting a scrap boarder around and sending it through the thicknesser, or making a jig like this using a router, what's your advice and would a bit like the one used be to aggressive for end gain? Cheers, ~Steve
Hi Colin, On my planing jig the grain direction is a necessary consideration and also what about dust collection? I reclaim pallet wood boards this way but need to collect the chips. Regards Colin Farrier in Northern Ireland
Hi Colin ... Yes, I would agree that grain direction is often necessary, as for dust collection some routers come with dust hoods that can be collected to shop a shop vac or dust collector. I seldom use them because most of what I do is in the router table which already has dust collection, but think for planing it's probably best to try to collect closer to where the bit is planing ... sounds like you might have more experience with this than me, but I am curious why you need to collect the chips??
Colin, Thank you for your reply. My planing jig is six feet long and can take a four foot board. The chips are thrown out from the jig in all directions and about half drops inside the jig for later disposal. One method would be to use brushes to act as a barrier as the carrier that I use for the router moves across the board. The second method is to have a 'containment room' around the jig to stop the widespread broadcast of chips. What do you think? regards Colin Farrier from Northern Ireland
colin farrier Yes they can be pretty messy, I don't need to use mine very often, but I know what you mean by the mess. I had not really thought about trying to contain the chips until you brought it up, I just clean them up after or at least try to, they do go everywhere. I am wondering if containment on one side of the jig, and dust collecting on the other but not sure if there would be enough air flow, and your jig is very big and I don't think the dust hood that some come with would be work. You have me a bit stumped on this, I think your idea of containment on both sides sounds the best so far ... let me know how you make out with this, very interested to hear.
WoodWorkWeb Hi Colin, I now have pictures of the dust control system for my planing jig. I dont know how to post these to your Utube but I can email the pictures to you. Would you please email me or give me your email address so that I may send them to you? My email address is colin@farrier.prestel.co.uk Thank you. Regards Colin Farrier from Northern Ireland
Hi Colin ... couple of thoughts, you could post them on Woodworkweb in the Forums for everyone to see and learn from or you can email them to me and I can post them ... either way, would be nice to have a look at them. Thanks for the note ... looking forward Colin
Hi,Colin!.Great idea for my dw618.All your videos theach me something about method of work.What type of bit is that?.I didn"t find it anywhere.Where can i buy it.I hope for your help to become happy.Thanks a lot.
I'm moving to a new house on Thursday the 21st. Will FINALLY have my shop. The wife has graciously granted mt the 2 car garage solely for my woodworking. So I'm getting in there and setting up tools and my new wood lathe :-) and then building a work bench, then this jig. I got a good deal on some hickory for a trailer I'm refurbishing for my landlord, but it's rough sawn. I don't' relish the idea of hand planing all that down. I'm sure photo's and stuff will be in my suture. Right now I only have pics of my fence and deck jobs I've done. And who'd wanna see those? Snore. Thanks again man!
David Loew AH ... I see what you mean now. Yes planing hickory with a router jig will be much quicker and easier that hand planing, and should do a good job too. Thanks for sharing this, we are always happy to save someone's butt :) ... so to speak Colin
I built this jig a few weeks ago and found it insanely useful! I am using this bit: www.amazon.com/CMT-852-504-11-Planer-2-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4O610/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1431539387&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=router+plainer+bit and on long grain cutting boards it works like a dream but on end grain boards i am getting a tiny bit of tear out....would the bit you are using eliminate that or would it be more of a product of my router speed and feed rate?
jeremy gunkel Hi Jeremy, glad to hear that jig is working for you, and yes a dado bit will work, it just takes a smaller bite of wood each time. In terms of tearout ... I can't say for sure that changing a bit will help, it might, also increasing bit speed ... might help, as might pushing the router slower or faster. End grain is a bear to try and get perfect. Sometimes it depends on the wood, could be the bit ... so hard to tell. I think I would try to keep using the bit you have first ... speed it up a slightly, slow it down ... change your rate of movement across the jig ... any of these might helps. Sorry buddy, no easy answers on this ... thanks a bunch for you info ... great stuff !!
I think this over simplifies the process a bit. This will work great if you have a perfectly flat and level work bench but if you have any uneveness there at all, this will cause some undesired results.
I would agree with that. I guess what I was thinking about is if you want to flip it over and do the same thing to the other side with the intention of both sides being parallel in the end.
![making a simple & easy Router Planing Jig [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Co0BCC4uGtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I am so glad that this video is still available. I watched a few router plane jig videos and each one was more elaborate than what I needed it for.
I had glued up some 2x4s for a butcher block extension wing on my table saw. Even though I used every clamp I own, the little slab had a dip on one side and a bump on the other. I needed a simple jig to plane it flat. Your design worked perfectly!
I used a 1/2" straight bit and took off just a little at a time, until I had a flat slab. It left a slight wavy pattern, but it sanded smooth with very little effort. Thank you for making this video. I enjoy every one of your videos. All very informative.
Colin, you're the easiest to understand and follow. You make projects less intimidating. Thanks so much, I don't have a planer and as little as I will need one this will do the trick.
Thanks, Dave and thanks for watching!
Hi Brian, thanks for the note, it is a brilliant idea, I wish I had thought of it but it has been around for quite some time, just not well known.
Hopefully now others will see how it works and be able to use it for their projects.
Thanks again for commenting
Colin
Hi Scotty, yes, even I was impressed how well it worked. Zip over to the article on woodworkweb to check out router bit options. We discovered they are somewhat hard to find. Rockler, Woodcraft and other go-to places had nothing, but there was a good selection at Amazon, which we provide links for in the article because there are pages and pages of router bits at Amazon.
Hope this helps, let me know if you need more info :)
Colin
That's a really clever jig! I'm definitely going to be putting one together in the next couple of months!
Thanks for sharing this video. I made this jig this morning and used it to plane down a 3" piece of rough cut cedar for a chair I am making.
Slick jig! I've seen the type that the router fastens to a sled and the whole sled slides on rails over the work, but never a panel with guides and feet on. I've got a gorgeous piece of ash crotch wood that I've wanted to make into a clock for quite some time, but have done nothing but screw it up to this point. Going to make a jig like this and try it out - the other kind I've seen would be too large for my tiny shop. Thanks for making the video.
Thanks for vote of confidence :) ... but I'm pretty happy doing your UA-cam.
Sounds like you have some ideas of your own making a version of this, maybe you will share some pics of it with us when you get it done, we'd love to see.
Thanks for posting ...
Colin
It is a clever jig, but I can't take credit for idea. I was very happy how quick and easy it was to plane down oversized boards.
Thanks for taking the time to comment
Colin
Outstanding idea, I've been worried about buying a planer, but not I don't need to, just yet. I'll build this jig, with some 3/4" material, but doubled thickness. Thank you, Colin.
Thank you for sharing this video. I can't wait to build my own jig as I can't afford a planer right now and my electric hand planer just frustrates me. Maybe you could post a video on how to use an electric hand planer properly? Cheers.
Hava Klein That's a good idea about the hand planer. I have one, but seldom use it. I will add it to the list, thanks Hava
This is a great idea and very easy to make. Thanks for sharing!
You're Welcome!
Hi! Great video. I know it has been up for a while now, but I was wondering what are some other ways to fasten down the piece being worked on? Make it slightly oversized and clamp/screw it down?
I think, of you're planing a heavy piece, you'll just have to worry about horizontal movement, so just screwing a wooden frame, or even just little metal corners, will do. If you're working on something lighter, depending on the surface of your workbench, you could put wide tape on both your bench and the piece, so they'll aline and put a few drops of super glue in-between the "backs" of the tapes. It might even be enough to not clamp it down at all... Have fun and stay safe
@@Lazarus-aap Thanks for the reply! :)
Super helpful and informative! Thanks very much for posting! I’ve got a couple slabs that I’ve been staring at looking for inspiration to flatten them so this was exactly what I needed to see! Cheers!
magic solution mate! What's the name of the router bit or make?
The planing bits used in this video is a 1/2" and I'm not aware of any that are 1/4". You really need a bit bigger bit for this kind of work which means a little bit more powerful router that will take a 1/2" bit.
What particular brand of that planing bit?
Thanks for taking the time to comment :)
Colin
Can these jigs replace planers and jointers? They seem much more easier and faster than the other 2 tools. I bought a planer and jointer recently and think I'll sell them and get a router to create the same end product.
Thank you. Really helpful video and tips.
Nicely done video. I'm making one myself and I got some good info out of your vid. You should have a TV show.
this jig takes the least amount material to make. great idea! Q: when you fasten the top two tracks, should we mount the beam vertically so that it has less chance to bend in the middle?
Great idea Colin, Thanks I will keep this in mind when I need to plane down any old scraps I find
Another great video. Thanks Mr. Knecht. I hope to try this one soon.
Great work, you never cease inspire me. This sled build seems overly complicated. You do not have to cut a big slot out of the middle of a board with a table saw (or a jig saw) to make a slot for the router. You can just use the router to carve the channel (slightly larger than your widest planer bit) out of the board using a temporary guide, then add your stops, and the sides to fit the router base width. Some of the niftiest sleds also have height adjustment, which can bi a great feature. This is the first sled video I've seen that goes with the grain instead of across. Are there any advantages or doesn't it matter?
QUALITY INFORMATION,THANKS FOR TAKEN THE TIME TO MAKE THIS VIDEO.
Thanks for commenting Les, glad you got some value from it
Colin
I hope that you make a lot of money because the videos you produce give us a ton of valuable information. I do have a question though. Using a jig like this I would think that it needs to be perfectly level in order to give the surface you are working on a perfectly level surface. For instance, I want to build a table so it will obviously need to be level. How do I make a jig that will insure that the final surface is level?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it really makes it look easy!
Hey awsome vid,
Just whas wondering why you didn't turn the router 90° in relation to the jig?
Cause what I thought whas you where going to use the flat sides of the router base to slide against the guide-rails. This whay you have a perfect straight routed line,... you also can use (approx. 1" thicker guide rails for stability,... and easier axcess to the handle.
Is this true what I'm saying? cause I'm not that certain,... it's just an idea. Let me know what you think?
Greets
I’ve come to learn that it’s better if the router cord is plugged in from the ceiling somewhere that way it won’t get in the way
I have a black and decker work bench I’m going to fit my makita router to it to mill pallet wood with a 2inch milling bit is this safe and will it work?
I love to watch your videos just keep on health and wear a dust mask You are a great teacher
ארז משה Thank you for your comment, and a great reminder about controlling dust and keeping safe
Hi Fredrik, thanks for taking the time to comment.
The bit I used and other similar bits are detailed and even have links for you on woodworkweb, and the article is easy to find. Go to he home page, scroll down and click on page 2, the article is about half way down on second page. Should have all the info you might need right there :)
If not, send me an email ... happy to help out
Colin
Hey Collin what’s the name of that Router bit called?
Wow an older video. I'm glad I came across it. Can you tell me what the bits are called and where I could get one? Thanks Colin for another helpful video.
What a brillant idea, thanks for sharing it!
Thank your for a great tutorial.
Would you mind telling me the name of that bit?
Regards
Fredrik
Colin I enjoy your videos and I made a router sled to flatten wood. It did a great job of flattening the wood however the wood had ridges in it when I was through. Please give me some feedback as to what I am probably doing wrong. Thanx
Thanks for sharing the video. Another option would be the plane jig we used to level very large red oak slabs. First we used a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood in which we made into a table about 30" off the floor. We then fastened 2x6's to the 8' sides, make sure you level them. Them we took 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron approx. 5' long, 2 each to go across the 4' table. we also used angle on each end told hold jig together, make sure the jig is far enough apart to easily hold your router. Now in our case the red oak slabs were not at all level, so we got them as close across the slab as we could, and fastened them through the bottom of the table using screws and wedges as needed. I works like a dream and we made many table tops using this jig. Some of the tops we made were over 5' wide so we had to make a larger table and jig, we also put 2 tables together for the longer slabs. The nice part about this method is you can also use the table for sanding, finishing your projects. Good Luck!!
Jim Groth Thanks for your detailed note Jim ... appreciate it
Can you please tell me what the bit is called and where to buy them. I am from the UK 🇬🇧
What brand bit did you use? Good info thanks
How do u keep the router bit from sliding off?
very nice taking your time and explain the jig to us. i really like the jig. i have already subscibe to your channel liked your ideas.
sweet, just found another great woodworker to subscribe to, will be flicking through your vids soon, thanks for the upload!
Hi Don .... great to have you with us, thanks for taking the time to comment.
Colin
lol ... a few people have commenting on how I say project, I must try and watch that a bit more carefully, thanks for bring a smile to my face.
Great to have you with us ... keep up those comments :)
Colin
Very useful information and very well presented! Thank you so much for sharing!
Katharine Morris Thank you Katharine, I appreciate your feedback
That surplus plank was not flat, it had a bow to it. How did you account for it being lower in the center? Or did it not matter?
Thank you sir! Works great for a beginner like me
No prob ... would love to see some pics of that clock when it gets done :)
Colin
what and where can u buy the bit you're using?
what is the bit you were using?
Really love your vids very well explained in good detail...
enjoy your video`s, easy to follow please makes more, learning lots
ken noble appreciate the feedback Ken ...thanks
Hi Ahmed, thanks for posting, and to answer your question, to join woodworkweb right now, go to the site and send me an email. I will sign you up manually.
Colin
Nice jig. What type of router bit did you use for planing? Thx.
The router bit I used one of the ones that I talked about in the article, even have some links to it and some pics ... check out the article on woodworkweb., the link is in UA-cam Description under the video window
Hi Colin, I was wondering if there is a good way to make the height of the jig adjustable? Right now I'm thinking of driving a bolt in on every corner, but I think that will leave too much room for error... Also, my workbench is very small, so I don't have much room to move the jig over the workpiece... Is there an "easy" jig to make to move the router around over the piece? I'd probably have to make something on which the router can slide, say left and right and that sled on itself needs to slide back to front, right? Do you have something like that? (And a video about it?) Thank you in advance! Greetings from the Netherlands!
Nevermind! Found your video!
Very nice video, thanks for posting it, and it's a great idea.
A quick question -- why are you pronouncing the word "project" ("praw-ject") as PRO-ject??? Are you Canadian? I've heard those folks do that.
Dear, Peter JF!.Thanks for reply Kindly advise me where I can find the same cutter as you .Best Regards.
a little long but great video Thank you very much
A qu,elle endroit puije trouver ce couteau de toupie
Good work, thanks for sharing!
G. Arfaras Thanks for commenting ..
You're a good teacher, Colin, and this was another good video. Why didn't you use your router to cut the slot in your jig instead of making the difficult plunge cut on your table saw?
Bob Wolf B l
Brilliant thanks Colin. I have very limited space and no room for planers etc. This jig will be great. What size is the router bit and shank that you used. I’m trying to extend my wood shed where I work but very limited on room to extend!! I would love a big roomy workshop but hey, not to worry. Thanks again for another great video. Graham🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi Colin, thank you so much for making and sharing this vid. I learned so much.
I intend to make a jig similar to this, but I have a question on router bit selection. For this jig, I will be using a Makita RP2301FC. The problem is, in the USA, this model router is a 3-1/4 HP, while in my country the motor is rated at 2100 w, or 2.8 HP.
Originally the router bit I wanted to use was an Amana 1-3/4 inch bottom cleaning bit (part #45453), but when I found out that my router won't be as powerful as that of reviewers who used the bit, I got a bit worried. In fact, I got to looking at a smaller version of the bit, the Amana 1-1/2 inch bottom cleaning bit (part #45566). I want to be safe, and I want my work to look good too.
However, Amazon is selling the 1-3/4 inch bit slightly cheaper than the 1-1/2 inch. The fact that I would lose about 1/4 inch in capacity, combined with the fact that I would have to pay more for this questionable privilege, is really chafing me. Yes, the loss of capacity is small, and the difference is not even a dollar, but it bugs me.
So my question is, do you think that I can safely use the 1-3/4 inch bit, or would it be better to use the 1-1/2 inch bit?
Note: I am using tropical hardwoods almost exclusively. Some of them can be really dense.
Would really appreciate your input on this one.
I'll link the items here (please copy and paste into address bar):
Router: amzn.to/1ROb8tw
1-3/4 inch: amzn.to/1OL5xEi
1-1/2 inch: amzn.to/1LzPhoF
What is the bit you are using? I went to the website, but I didn't find an easy way to navigate to information related to this video.
Hi Ron, thanks for the note, sorry you were not easily able to find the article on woodworkweb. I have re-edited the text in the description box under this video that has the direct link to that article you are looking for.
We are trying to do this with every video, but are still working on it.
Thanks again ... let me know if you need more info
Colin
Thanks for you post, I'm not sure I am following what you are describing, but what I will say is there are often many different ways to accomplish the same thing so you could very well be correct, and you may even have a better way. Would like to hear more, maybe you could email me at woodworkweb, not much room on these post :)
Hope you don't mind I made a rough out SketchUp design on the Warehouse called Router Planer Jig, Since I liked this idea so much.
lol ... not at all James, pretty sure this is the public domain, I would love to claim it as my own, but I have seen this somewhere else in my travels, so I like you took the imitative to share with others as I do ... well done sir!
Colin
Maybe a router template guide can be used insted of the top wooden fences
Filip Jelenkovic that's what I was thinking too. Not sure if typical guides would support a huge bit like that. Usually a guide would not interfere with the bit being plunged up or down (i.e., straight bits) however that would not be the case for this bit. That would make it a dangerous option but I am only guessing don't have much experience with guides.
Thanks for taking the time to comment ... I always seem to be working on another video, so stay tuned :)
Colin
Good question, the bandsaw was used to get the board cut to rough shape, in this video we are planing a wide board. If the board was narrower, we could have used a jointer, but on wide boards that won't fit on a jointer, planing with a router is another way of getting them flat and with a nice smooth surface finish.
2:45 Building a Planing Jig for a Wood Router
What camera are you using your videos are so sharp?
Well, we just have a little Canon Handy Cam ... not sure of the model, but it was one of the more expensive ones, but it does shoot in high def, which is what we use and it does seem to do a pretty good job for us.
Thank you so do you shoot 30 frames per sec. or 25 fps when shooting and In I mode or in P mode like 1080 I or 1080P and when you upload what settings are you using as your video is one of the best I have seen out there! I'm trying to get my videos better and would like to know how you upload and the setting that you use to get such great sharpness....you can email me if you would like at charles.denherder@gmail.com thanks so very much.....
Hi Colin, great video, I'm halfway through making a end gain chopping board which I need to flatten I'm thinking putting a scrap boarder around and sending it through the thicknesser, or making a jig like this using a router, what's your advice and would a bit like the one used be to aggressive for end gain?
Cheers, ~Steve
Colin Knecht Sure I should have it finished next weekend thanks Colin
~Steve
Sorry didn’t explain that the router will be upside down rather than on a rail system?
Hi Colin,
On my planing jig the grain direction is a necessary consideration and also what about dust collection? I reclaim pallet wood boards this way but need to collect the chips.
Regards
Colin Farrier in Northern Ireland
Hi Colin ...
Yes, I would agree that grain direction is often necessary, as for dust collection some routers come with dust hoods that can be collected to shop a shop vac or dust collector. I seldom use them because most of what I do is in the router table which already has dust collection, but think for planing it's probably best to try to collect closer to where the bit is planing ... sounds like you might have more experience with this than me, but I am curious why you need to collect the chips??
Colin,
Thank you for your reply.
My planing jig is six feet long and can take a four foot board. The chips are thrown out from the jig in all directions and about half drops inside the jig for later disposal. One method would be to use brushes to act as a barrier as the carrier that I use for the router moves across the board. The second method is to have a 'containment room' around the jig to stop the widespread broadcast of chips.
What do you think?
regards
Colin Farrier from Northern Ireland
colin farrier Yes they can be pretty messy, I don't need to use mine very often, but I know what you mean by the mess. I had not really thought about trying to contain the chips until you brought it up, I just clean them up after or at least try to, they do go everywhere. I am wondering if containment on one side of the jig, and dust collecting on the other but not sure if there would be enough air flow, and your jig is very big and I don't think the dust hood that some come with would be work. You have me a bit stumped on this, I think your idea of containment on both sides sounds the best so far ... let me know how you make out with this, very interested to hear.
WoodWorkWeb
Hi Colin, I now have pictures of the dust control system for my planing jig. I dont know how to post these to your Utube but I can email the pictures to you. Would you please email me or give me your email address so that I may send them to you? My email address is colin@farrier.prestel.co.uk Thank you. Regards Colin Farrier from Northern Ireland
Hi Colin ... couple of thoughts, you could post them on Woodworkweb in the Forums for everyone to see and learn from or you can email them to me and I can post them ... either way, would be nice to have a look at them.
Thanks for the note ... looking forward
Colin
Hi,Colin!.Great idea for my dw618.All your videos theach me something about method of work.What type of bit is that?.I didn"t find it anywhere.Where can i buy it.I hope for your help to become happy.Thanks a lot.
+Jugin Str
If you search for Surface Planing Bit
Bottom Cleaning Bit
Wood Milling Bit
Cutting Mill Bit
and you should find something suitable
The only problem I have with the system is dust extraction it is allways a problem for me with routers
what type of bit is that?
matt vincent That is a planing bit, details in the Full Article link
Nice video. It would be much faster if we use the similar jig idea but with a power planer instead of a router.
Done
This video jsut saved my ass. Thanks man!
lol ... glad to hear David, maybe we can see some pics of the finished project?
Colin
I'm moving to a new house on Thursday the 21st. Will FINALLY have my shop. The wife has graciously granted mt the 2 car garage solely for my woodworking. So I'm getting in there and setting up tools and my new wood lathe :-) and then building a work bench, then this jig. I got a good deal on some hickory for a trailer I'm refurbishing for my landlord, but it's rough sawn. I don't' relish the idea of hand planing all that down. I'm sure photo's and stuff will be in my suture. Right now I only have pics of my fence and deck jobs I've done. And who'd wanna see those? Snore. Thanks again man!
David Loew AH ... I see what you mean now. Yes planing hickory with a router jig will be much quicker and easier that hand planing, and should do a good job too. Thanks for sharing this, we are always happy to save someone's butt :) ... so to speak
Colin
I built this jig a few weeks ago and found it insanely useful! I am using this bit: www.amazon.com/CMT-852-504-11-Planer-2-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4O610/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1431539387&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=router+plainer+bit
and on long grain cutting boards it works like a dream but on end grain boards i am getting a tiny bit of tear out....would the bit you are using eliminate that or would it be more of a product of my router speed and feed rate?
jeremy gunkel Hi Jeremy, glad to hear that jig is working for you, and yes a dado bit will work, it just takes a smaller bite of wood each time.
In terms of tearout ... I can't say for sure that changing a bit will help, it might, also increasing bit speed ... might help, as might pushing the router slower or faster. End grain is a bear to try and get perfect. Sometimes it depends on the wood, could be the bit ... so hard to tell. I think I would try to keep using the bit you have first ... speed it up a slightly, slow it down ... change your rate of movement across the jig ... any of these might helps. Sorry buddy, no easy answers on this ... thanks a bunch for you info ... great stuff !!
lol .... yes us folks do that :)
I think this over simplifies the process a bit. This will work great if you have a perfectly flat and level work bench but if you have any uneveness there at all, this will cause some undesired results.
Joseph Huisman Not really, as long as both ends are stable, what ever lies in the middle will be planed flat assuming nothing moves.
I would agree with that. I guess what I was thinking about is if you want to flip it over and do the same thing to the other side with the intention of both sides being parallel in the end.
Joseph Huisman Yes, you are correct ... that is an option too, and probably something many would want to do
Either way, it is a great idea and something I have been struggling with recently. Thanks for posting.
Joseph Huisman Yup ... NP ... thanks buddy for commenting
2z4 the other way= more support.less bowing
Did you not just say." We only want a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of blade above the material we are cutting"
thanks alot but you used alot of wood
wood is soooo expensive for us
How are you 100% certain it is planed flat? Your workbench looks like it has a bow, and you never planed up the sides?