6 - How to Mill Lumber Using a Jointer
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2006
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In this episode, I review one of the most critical and fundamental aspects of woodworking: milling lumber. I review my 4-step milling process, which requires some big tools. And since I know many folks don't have a fully outfitted shop, I also present numerous alternative methods for jointing edges and flattening faces. The jointer's jumpin'!!!
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Watching this in 2021 and still learning alot. Love your progression!
Just started watching this channel after setting up a shop in my garage and just gotta say, i love the humor you add in these videos.
been wood working (mostly on the lathe) for about 2 yrs and i do some other flat work too and im getting ready to buy a jointer. so i typed in "how to properly use a jointer" and there you were. you were one of the first wood workers i watched and a lot seems to come back to you. so i watched your video. i have noticed (and will watch) other videos about joinery but even this 13 yr old video was very informative. keep up the good work youre one of the tops in my book (you look like a kid in this video) lol
Great video! Very instructive. Note: Opposite faces of a board are not coplanar. They reside in parallel planes (when properly milled). The 11th and 12th floors of a high-rise building are not coplanar, but represent parallel planes. Two rectangles drawn on the same sheet of paper are coplanar. If the infeed and outfeed tables of a jointer were exactly the same height, they would be coplanar.
You're a great teacher. I'll gladly subscribe!
You have grown so much in 8 years
Thank you so much Marc--I am getting ready to mill my first rough cut piece of lumber and this video was PERFECT--so informative and entertaining too--you're the best!!!
Hi Mark. Thanks for your video it helps a lot of people have fun with wood working.
My Dad taught us to start at the table saw, Then the jointer and finally the planer.Works good for me. again thanks.
I believe the common advice to limit the depth of cut to 1/16 when jointing on the edge (as opposed to the face which is valid) is the root cause of a lot of problems.
After I adjusted the depth of cut when joining on the edge to 1/8, I began to get much better result. There is a very valid reason for this. I then find out that my jointer is actually not bad.
If the bow is too great, when the depth of cut is less than the curvature, the work will not both "hug" the outfeed table and still cut thru-out the length. Hugging (being flush with) the outfeed and still cutting for the entire length are necessary to form a straight edge.
When the depth of cut is insufficient with a bow board (concave or convex), either the infeed table will elevate the tail end and the board will no longer hug the outfeed (when jointing concave) or the tail end of the board will miss being cut (when jointing convex).
For bowing that exceed even 1/8, one has to check the board and first carefully reduce the worse bowing part by removing the worse bow part by jointing just that section. I think jointing convex is better for this purpose. Then jointing with depth of cut of 1/8 would work.
These considerations are particularly important for boards much longer than the infeed table.
Dang, this is this earliest vid I've seen for your channel, as always great informative content. Really appreciate all you vids, thanks Marc
Glad I saw this. I have a little baby jointer and need to joint 8' long pieces for a dining table. That table saw sled is genius!!
As always, your explanation is clear and insightful. Love your ability both as a teacher and a craftsmen. Thanks for posting this.
WOW what a trick! Thanks Marc, you've become my got to source for all things woodworking.
This video is timeless and should be at 60,000,000 views not 600,000.
Lots of great tips - even though video is from 2006, still very relevant, what works, works! Thanks Marc!!
Love your videos. Clear and simple for a novice like me.
Thanks a million Marc. I went to woodcraft for a new block plane this week and they showed me how to as well. The hard part for me is on my guitar soundboards. 1/4sawn spruce is sometimes difficult to read and this trick works well. Most other woods are easy enough.
thanks marc for this informative and detailed video. It is a great help for me to carry out lessons regarding jointing clearly...
awesome video. this is something im planning on mastering before i start taking fine wood working seriously.
Excellent advice...thank you!
As always Marc, great video!
Very helpful instruction. Thank you for making this video.
excellent ideas! the surface planer sled for flattening and table saw sled for edging are too me the most flexible ideas and one less space hogging tool. Plus you dont have to fidget with the jointer blades since that constant precision requirement can be a hassle to deal with.
I almost skipped this video; but brother did you you provide me with some great information- Thank you. I'm now subscribed and will be on your website in a moment. Thanks again. Great show!😃
Great video! Thank you
Very informative video. Crazy to see that this was actually posed 17yrs ago but only found this now!🥲This would be so cool and so good to see this remastered or redone with higher video quality. Definitely a video worth keeping in the library.
Marc, these videos are well done and very imformative! I will make sure to look at the Woodwhisperer Store next time I'm making a purchase online.
Thanks for the helpful information.
@apollo111111 well that isn't usually that much of a factor if the blade are sharp. But if it is chipping out, that is certainly one way to ensure a smoother cut.
i read an article once about jointing with a table saw. you put a sacrificial fence on your saw and raise the blade up into it. then behind the blade, you put a thin piece of wood the width of the exposed blade and keep the board straight to that to joint an edge
@danebdon because we are sending it through the planer, not the jointer.
Love your videos, thank you!
Really nice video! It helped a lot!
Thankyou for this presentation . . . Chris, Norwich England
This video really helped me out! I can't afford any type of powerplaner or jointer but I have a router table and a router ^^
Dude, this is like... 14 UA-cam videos worth of info all in one! Great organization, great teaching, great... everything. Don't even care about the prehistoric video quality, lol.
Thanks so much! If you find us on Amazon Prime the quality of the video is a bit better
@@woodwhisperer That's where I started, actually. They're great, man. It's hard to believe what tech we were dealing with back in 2006? 2007? A little bit has changed in the last 13 years... Lol.
@LFWOL I try to avoid saying things like "always" and "never" in woodworking, lol. Always lands me in hot water. 99% of the time I go with the concave side down. But there are some instance where its more effective to go with the convex side down. Primary, with a thinner piece that just by virtue of pushing across the jointer, flattens out "artificially" from your hand pressure.
It took me watching several of your videos before I saw some with your silly sense of humor in them. LOL, you do make me laugh and that's a plus. Additionally I learn a lot, so thanks. :-)
Great video Mark! You always explain things clearly and well thought out. I can't wait to get a joiner and planner. What power tools do you recommend? I would love to hear it!
Thank you for the video.
Funny interesting video, keep up the good job!
Great video!!
thanks for the video, always really detailed informative videos. I do have a question if you dont mind. I just got my first jointer and im having trouble flattening stock on it. I just some set up and put some cuts through on a piece of already fairly flat pine and the test piece came out perfectly flat after only minor tweaking. I then tried to flatten some pretty warped walnut (rough sawn, twisted, bowed and cupped) about as rough as it gets. And i just cant get them flat. they're tapered width-wise and still rock back and forth. Some of them are worse even-having a convex hump length-wise. What am I doing wrong? and is it possible to recover these boards?
Your lack of ego is a godsend for those of us not blessed with the wooden thumb. Thanks!
Great information, Mark. I'm going crazy right now because I do not have a jointer or planer. I do, however, have a router. I'll try that technique on the front wall of my table saw sled I am trying to make. I need a flat surface there or the sled will be of no use at all. Take care.
When you get the option, buy your planer first, as for jointing an edge, just make a jig for the table saw, hopefully you have found something that works well for you buy now, happy safe woodworking :)
You should redo this one in super awesome HD
Watching this (again) in 2020. :)
I did' like the beginning of the video but the main part was excellent, thank you
Thanks John. Pretty detailed review on the jointer minus the cutter straight blades or helical ? Ill check the website my guess is straight knives to keep the price down ? The spiral with carbide inserts seem the way to go i imagine its available aftermarket for a price. Like everything else 77
With cups, I always have to put the convex side down. But I have to do it the other way with bows and twists. If I don't, I always find that the little bit of downward pressure I put on the board is enough (especially with long/thin boards) to press the center of the board flat only for it to spring back up to being bowed slightly. If I do it the other way, I don't put any pressure on the high spots (the ends) and those basically "float" over the knives and make the face come out perfectly flat.
You recommend truing up the final edge on the table saw. Is there a disadvantage to truing it up on the jointer when doing the first (reference) face and edge? That seems more efficient.
My way of router-planning a bowed/twisted board is to use a trough to lay the board in, wedges to stabilize it, then instead of milling the entire piece, I cut two/2, 1 1/2" grooves full-length, then place waxed hardwood-rails in those grooves,, now using the planer it's a simple matter to plane the top surface, flip it over and plane the grooved side...
does the dust collecter come on with certain tools? as in wired intogether? would be cool
Quick question! After jointing the first face in step one, could you instead use the planer next to make the opposite face flat and parallel, Instead of jointing one edge? So joint face, plane other face, joint edge, rip other edge on table saw.
What size jointer do you use now? Does it have a helical head with lots of carbide bits?
Also what do you do for jointing larger boards that your jointer can't handle?
We need to get you on HD ... Nice!
This guy makes really solid videos, if you read the comments Wood Whisperer, you should really make vid's in HD! Great videos though. But as many people watch your stuff, you should film, or upload with HD quality video.
Hey Dan. Welcome to the channel. Sounds like you're new here. :) This video was produced in 2006 which pre-dates the use of HD in web video. Not only did we not have consumer HD cameras but UA-cam was just getting started and didn't allow HD uploads. You should check out the couple hundred videos we have on our channel that are actually in HD and I recently even produced my first 4K video.
My bad, thanks for the clarification. I clearly am new to this, and seemingly youtube, ha. I will do that.
Hi Mark. I'm a fairly new woodworker, have my first jointer. Thanks for your helpful videos. All the jointer videos I've seen feature nice thick wood. What do I do if I have 1/2" pieces of twisted and non flat wood. When I press on them and feed them through the jointer, they flatten out but remain the same because I push them flat to the cutters.
I hate to tell you this but you are pushing down too hard on those boards, and too, they are thin to begin with. I ran into that same problem when I first bought my jointer, now what you can do is use the shim method and a planer, for one it is much safer and too you have a flat surface to support the stock as it goes through those blades. If you have a planer a jointer is actually optional, there are very nice table saw jigs you can build to joint the edge of a board and using the shim and sled method you can get nice flat boards if you are not too aggressive on the cut depth, just keep it deep enough where the blades make contact (think feather touch here) and make several passes going a little deeper each time until you have a flat side. Remove the boards from the sled and feed through the planer as normal after you have that one flat surface. Sorry for the long explanation but you need to know this bit of business and have it properly explained.
Thanks! Makes a lot of sense. Thanks for explaining so carefully.
Dave Clark The thinnest stock I can get away with being hard wood (maple, oak, etc) is 1" which as we all know is only 3/4" thick. Hopefully this helps you get off to a decent start.
What would you do if the wood had a cup that created a hollow spot on one side, and also a bow that created a hollow spot on the other side?
could you provide some info on grain direction. The only way i really seem to know which way hand plane is by doing a test cut and if i get tear of spin the board 180 degrees and then planes. any info you could provide or a vid on it would be GREAT
The trick to having perfectly square boards is to reduce them to only a few pixels.
You Rock Dude!
@ChrisBowlas If its jumping too much, return it. :)
Hi. According to this, especially the end of this video, I am decided about to build my own CNC router base. :-) Realize that feeling of timber perfectly flattening itself automatically during my coffe break :-) heh
By far the best s4s video on UA-cam. Would you consider remaking this video for better quality and maybe new information ?
Thanks Joshua. I have thought about it, if only to make it up to current standards.
The production quality sucks more then your 5 hp cyclone? Ok sorry, too harsh :)
+The Wood Whisperer Pls. remake the joke again.
Some awesome tips I've never heard before in here! A new higher quality version would be awesome!
I am starting a woodworking channel do you have any advice?
I didn't know you have a live studio audience!?!?! I want tickets!
@carykong Only what you saw in this video.
Woodwhisperer---do you have a video on ways to turn your table saw into a jointer?
I like the video...
You talk about the first step in a four part process to mill your boards around the two minute mark in this video. You should make a video starting with #1 and go all the way through to #4. For people that is new to wood working it could be helpful to understand the processes you take. I watch about all of your videos and enjoy them very much.
+Marvin Janes I'm confused. Isn't that exactly what I did in this video?!?!
I can't find the link in the video. Time to reshoot?
Marc, wood you consider making an updated version of this video based on your new shop and equipment? please?
Blake Loke Why? What would that accomplish? Sincere question.
Only a fun comment here ... if he did do that when you requested, you could now return and ask for an additional update with his new firehouse shop. If he has updated this video, I haven't seen (nor have I looked too hard). It would be great to have it in at least 720.
Wow 2006! We got old.
At the point where you have a parallel top and bottom and 1 perpendicular side, you typically don't need to bother with arbitrarily squaring that last face since you are probably going to cut the board to width at this point to use in a project. Cutting it to width plus a hair wider and then truing up that side on a router is quite common.
how can I get the bow out of a board that's 8 feet long on my jointer
nice
@danebdon really how does that help
one simple trick you might try involves using panty hose. The material in panty hose catches easily on grain. The direction that catches more is against the grain and the directly that moves smoothly without getting caught up is with the grain. Yes, I just recommended buying panty hose. :)
When I run my boards through the jointer and apply pressure on the outfeed table, only the front of the board is touching the cutters. The first 8 inches or so then it picks up from the pressure on the outfeed and the rest of the board is never cut. Should I be applying equal pressure to prevent this?
Have you adjusted your outfeed table relative to the knives? There is a process you have to go through to adjust them just so. Should work then. It helps to have both tables co-planar as well.
wow, seems like a life time ago.
Ey great video! By the way, do you speak with a Spanish twang?
stumbled onto this while looking for videos for Lowe's PORTER-CABLE 10-Amp Bench Jointer - I'm on a warpath to get a jointer & planer but I know nothing... does the bed length relate to certain length boards?
+BackyardWoodworks Crafts & More Yup exactly. The longer the bed, the easier it will be to joint longer boards due to the increased reference area.
+BackyardWoodworks Crafts & More
If you plan on using your jointer regularly, I would suggest skipping past the benchtop models. From the research I have done over the past year+, the benchtop models are relatively crappy. If you can't afford something like the Ridgid JP0610 (www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-6-Amp-6-1-8-in-Corded-Jointer-Planer-JP0610/202269174?keyword=jp0610), then you might want to look around craigslist etc. for local resales. I just ordered the Ridgid today, and after shipping and tax it was $685.82...expensive, but it is a tool that will last for a long time.
is there a reason not to plane the 2nd edge as the last phase of this, instead of going to the table saw?
First of all you likely want to get it close to final size on the saw, but doing an edge on the planer isn't always a good choice and you have to crank your planer way down, etc. I have done some thin edges on my planer but there is a chance it can twist if the edge is thin or the material soft. My choice is to use the table saw to get the second edge parallel. I cut close to final then pass over the jointer to get to the final dimension. Jointers are much easier to do edges than wider surfaces. Or if your saw gives you a nice edge you can sand to final size.
why would you use the table saw for the second edge ? why not the jointer again ? Thanks.
Because the jointer only makes a straight edge. The table saw not only makes a straight edge but it makes a parallel cut, which is really important when milling.
Just getting into wood working. On a budget. What jointer gives me the most bang for the buck?
+Josh Savage Ridgid JP0610, as far as I can tell. I've been looking into this myself for a long time, and was going to buy a benchtop model, but from everything I can tell about them, they aren't worth the money despite their being inexpensive compared to the basic standing 6-inch models. The Ridgid I mentioned is $599 from Home Depot before shipping and tax, so it isn't exactly cheap, but you will be able to use it for years. I'm working on setting up a business, so I may be going for something above-and-beyond your personal needs, so obviously take my opinion with a few dozen grains of salt, but if you want to be able to joint longer boards, and you want a tool with as few plastic parts as possible, you'll have to spend some bills on it.
You could also check craigslist for good used jointers...there haven't been any between Oklahoma City, Stillwater, and Tulsa for the past year, so I decided to just bite the bullet (with part of my tax refund) and buy new. I just ordered the Ridgid today.
+UsernameFECKLE Thanks. I ended up buying a Michigan Industrial 6" jointer. It's pretty heavy duty. 1981 model, but new blades and it's done well so far. Thanks for the recommendation. If and when I need a new one, I'll check the Ridgid out.
Josh Savage Glad to hear you were able to find a used one!
12 years ago.
"You could end up with a wedge shaped board" *looks around to see if anyone else is nodding their head in frustration*
Wouldn't it be better to do the 4th side on the jointer rather than the table saw? My thinking is that the jointer will give a better surface finish than all but the best table saws.
+Damien Gregory nope. doing the fourth side on the jointer doesn't guarantee a parallel edge. The table saw references from the first jointed edge to produce a straight and parallel second edge.
+The Wood Whisperer I understand. The jointer would make it perpendicular to a face, but not necessarily parallel to the other edge; you could end up with a wedge-shape. Thanks for the explanation!
I like video
Hey can I use a planer to joint boards for small projects?......cant afford a jointer.....
Yes. You will have to make a sled that you basically stick the board down to with support where it doesn't touch the sled. otherwise the planer will mash it down and not remove any bow or cupping. After that you plane it as you otherwise would.
Or as Mark mentions in this video, if you have a table saw you can joint the one edge using a jig for the table saw (which is the method I prefer and I own a jointer).
Mark, just getting into woodworking and already I am having trouble with my table saw. I've been trying to square up some rock maple, and my blade is leaving scorch marks on the wood. Even tried a new blade, still burn marks. What am I doing wrong.
Dewey
Make sure your fence is parallel to the blade, that can sometimes cause bad rips. Does it do the same thing when you do a crosscut?
Try a thin kerf blade
My table saw, craftsman, is not the most expensive. I've noticed the fence moves a hair or two if pressed on, also the clearence plate gives when pressed on. Learning how to work around these problems now.
I really can't afford expensive tools like your setup. I'm just doing small items to augment our craft shows. I do get a lot of rough cut lumber so the next piece of equipment will be a planer for edging. Guess I will just have to work with what I have.
Thanks everyone for all the helpful suggestions. They were much appreciated.
cut with the grain - got it.
When are you going to make a sleigh bed and night stands.......
It's 2021... Haha!
did you or did you not, sing lead for the Cherry Poppin Daddies at this time?
Thanks for the great videos.
Instead of using a jointer first, can you simply run it though the planer twice (once on each side)? Trying to figure out how to square the lumber with as few machines as possible.
Why not mill a warped/twisted pc about ten feet long?
Hint:
Lose the silly orange thing!
So young!!!